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Crosby  Lockwood  and  Son. 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Digitized  by  tlie  Internet  Archive 
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PRACTICAL  TANNING: 


MODERJSr  PROCESSES,  RECEIPTS,  AND 
SUGGESTIONS 


TREATMENT  OF  HIDES,  SKINS,  AND  PELTS 
OF  EVERY  DESCRIPTION. 


LOUIS  A.  FLEMMING, 

AMERICAN  TANNER. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 

HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO., 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHERS,  BOOKSELLERS  AND  IMPORTERS, 
810  Walnut  Street. 
LONDON : 
CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  AND  SON, 
7  Stationers'  Hall  Court,  Ludgate  Hill. 
1903 


A  HANDBOOK 


OF 


FOR  THE 


BY 


Copyright,  by 
HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO., 
,1903. 


Printed  by  the 
WICKERSHAM  PRINTING  CO. 
53  and  55  North  Queen  Street, 
Lancaster,  Pa.,  U.  S.  A, 


PREFACE. 


Practical  Tanning,  here  presented  for  the  consideration  and 
guidance  of  the  Leather  Industrials  of  the  United  States  and 
foreign  countries  is  distinctively  an  American  up-to-date  treatise; 
no  English,  French  or  German  book  having  been  consulted  in  its 
preparation.  Furthermore,  in  it  will  be  found  nothing  what- 
ever copied  from  any  previously  printed  American  book.  It  is 
what  its  title  imports,  ''A  Hand-Book  of  Modern  Processes, 
Receipts  and  Suggestions  for  the  Treatment  of  Hides,  Skins  and 
Pelts  of  Every  Description."  It  is  the  result  of  the  experience 
and  study  of  the  author  and  of  those  of  many  other  practical 
men  with  whom  it  has  been  his  good  fortune  to  come  into 
association  and  consultation. 

One  special  feature  of  the  volume  to  which  he  would  call 
attention  is  that  of  the  chapters  on  the  Patented  Processes  of 
Tanning,  Tawing,  Depilating  and  Bating.  These  patents,  which 
are  given  with  sufficient  detail  to  be  clearly  understood,  serve  to 
indicate  the  aims  and  ends  of  the  most  progressive  and  most 
intelligent  investigators  among  tanners  and  chemists  in  the 
direction  of  placing  this  great  industry  upon  a  scientific  basis, 
and  what  has  been  accomplished  in  that  direction.  The 
patents,  the  author  has  in  most  cases  given  with  proper  reserve, 
and  without  actual  endorsement;  but  they  are  all  suggestive, 
and  therefore  worthy  of  examination  and  investigation. 

In  writing  this  book  the  author  has  aimed  to  put  before  his 
readers  information  relating  to  the  manufacture  of  many  kinds 
of  leather  at  once  valuable  and  interesting.  He  makes  no 
claim  to  infallibility  nor  to  be  above  criticism.  The  book  does 
not  cover  the  entire  field  of  leather  manufacture;  it  does,  how- 
ever, contain  a  large  amount  of  practical  information  so  pre- 
sented that  the  leather  worker  can  readily  understand  it,  and 
having  made  it  a  part  of  his  mental  capital  can  utilize  it  with 
benefit  to  himself  and  to  the  product  of  his  skill. 

(V) 


vi 


PREFACE. 


Leather  making  as  a  trade  cannot  be  wholly  learned  from  a 
book;  but  a  good  book  is  an  important  aid  to  that  end.  Its 
value  comes  out  only  when  the  information  in  its  pages  is 
thoroughly  assimilated  and  applied  in  practice.  The  author 
hopes  that  this  one  will  be  appreciated  for  its  good  qualities 
rather  than  be  criticised  for  its  short-comings. 

In  conclusion  he  would  only  add,  that  as  is  the  uniform 
practice  of  the  publishers,  they  have  provided  the  work  with  a 
copious  table  of  contents  as  well  as  a  very  full  index,  which  will 
render  reference  to  any  subject  in  it  at  once  prompt,  easy  and 
satisfactory.  Louis  A.  Flemming 

Hillsdale  J  Michigan,  Ajml  5,  1903. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
Sheepskinp. 

PAGE 

Wool-pulling — Pickled  skins  ;  The  first  operation  to  which  sheepskins 
are  subjected;  Close  relations  between  the  soaking  process  and  the  sub- 
sequent processes  ;  Time  required  for  soaking ;  Effects  of  too  much 
soaking       ............  1 

How  the  best  results  are  attained;  Treatment  of  the  pelts  after  soaking; 
Effect  of  heating;  Wool-pulling  with  sulphide  of  sodium;  Common 
method  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium     .......  2 

Strength  of  the  sulphide  of  sodium  liquor;  Applying  the  sulphide  of 
sodium  and  lime  ...........  3 

Length  of  time  required  for  the  action  of  the  depilatory  solution;  Treat- 
ment of  the  skins  after  pulling     ........  4 

The  liming  process;  Action  of  lime;  Swelling  property  of  a  lime;  Re- 
newal of  the  first  lime;  Mode  of  making  a  new  lime;  Length  of  time 
the  skins  should  be  left  in  the  lime      .......  5 

Time  required  to  lime  sheepskins  of  average  thickness;  Addition  of  fresh 
lime;  Sensitiveness  of  the  skins  whilst  being  passed  through  the  pro- 
cesses preparatory  to  the  actual  process  of  tanning       ....  6 

Effects  of  low  liming  and  of  over-liming;  Use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  in 
connection  with  lime;  Cause  of  many  of  the  imperfections  met  with  in 
finished  leather  7 

Removal  of  grease  found  in  sheepskins;  Object  of  the  drenching  process; 
The  bran  drench  8 

Use  of  sour  tan  liquor;  What  the  action  of  the  bran  drench  is  due  to; 
Souring  the  drench  .........  9 

Another  method  of  preparing  and  using  the  bran  drench;  Amount  of 
drenching  required  by  sheepskins        .......  10 

Drenching  sheepskins  by  the  use  of  animal  and  bird  dung;  Drenching 
with  lactic  acid;  Mode  of  using  lactic  acid  11 

The  pickling  process;  Composition  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  skins  are 
pickled,  and  length  of  time  they  should  remain  in  it    .       .       .       .  12 

Wool-pulling  with  the  new  XXX  depilatory,  patented    .       .       .  .13 

Advantages  gained  by  the  use  of  this  patented  depilatory;  The  sweating 
process        ............  14 

(  vii  ) 


viii 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  11. 
The  Manufacture  of  Chrome-tanned  Sheep  Leather. 

Preparation  of  sheepskins  for  chrome  tanning;  Kemoval  of  grease  from 
sheepskins;  Removing  the  acid  from  pickled  skins;  A  very  satisfactory 
method  of  tanning  pickled  sheepskins  with  one  bath  chrome  liquors    .  15 

Common  method  of  drenching  pickled  sheepskins;  Temperature  of  the 
drench;  Effect  of  the  whiting  and  salt         ......  16 

Drenching  in  a  solution  of  coal  tar  bate  and  sal-soda;  A  common  method 
of  chrome  tanning  sheepskins      .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .17 

Principal  use  of  sulphate  of  alumina;  Preparation  of  a  solution  of  tanning 
material;  Test  for  ascertaining  whether  the  skins  are  tanned  through.  18 

Washing  the  skins;  Tanning  pickled  skins  without  drenching;  Mode  of 
tanning  pickled  sheepskins  without  having  the  acid  removed  from 
them   .  19 

Another  method  of  tanning  pickled  sheepskins       .       .       .       '       .  20 

A  new  one-bath  process  of  acid  tanning  and  mode  of  carrying  out  this 
process  22 

Preparation  of  S.  Z.  solution  and  of  S.  K.  solution;  Tanning  of  sheep- 
skins with  one-bath  chrome  liquors  in  paddle  vats       .       .       .  .23 

Mode  of  handling  the  liquors;  Necessity  of  using  soft  water;  Quantity  of 
tanning  material  required    .........  24 

Test  for  ascertaining  whether  the  skins  are  tanned;  Tanning  sheepskins 
in  two-bath  processes;  Removal  of  the  acids  in  the  skins;  Manner  of 
carrying  out  the  most  commonly  used  process  of  two-bath  tanning       .  25 

Quantity  of  chromic  acid  required;  Essential  point  in  the  first  bath; 
Treatment  of  the  skins  after  removal  from  the  drum    .       .       .  .26 

Composition  of  the  second  bath;  A  process  of  two-bath  tanning       .       .  27 

Finishing  chrome-tanned  sheepskins  into  glove  leather;  Coloring;  Mor- 
dants used  28 

Ox-blood  is  a  very  popular  shade  and  how  a  good  color  can  be  obtained; 
A  good  shade  of  ox -blood     .........  29 

The  various  shades  of  brown  and  tan;  Yellow  glove  leather;  Mahogany 
shade  30 

A  good  fat-liquor;  Another  very  good  fat-liquor;  A  very  practical  method 
of  preparing  chrome-tanned  sheepskins  with  sumac     .       .       .  .31 

Aniline  dyes  on  this  leather  32 

Economy  to  use  only  the  best  dyes;  Difficulties  encountered  in  coloring 
chrome-tanned  leather;  Method  of  dissolving  aniline  dyes;  Preferred 
method  of  dyeing;  Brand  of  aniline  colors  referred  to  .       .       .  .33 

Ox-blood  shade;  Very  desirable  tan  shades  34 

Sulfamine-dyed  sheepskins;  Yellow  chrome-tanned  glove  leather;  Rich 
dark  ox-blood;  Glazing  chrome-tanned  sheepskins — colored;  Clearing 
the  grain  of  grease  35 

Liquor  for  a  clear,  bright  finish;  Finishing  the  skins  into  black  shoe 
leather  36 


CONTENTS. 


ix 


PAGE 

Increasing  the  solidity  and  firmness  of  the  leather;  Coloring  the  flesh  blue 
or  purple;  Blacking  the  grain;  Preparation  of  a  good  striker  to  develop 
the  color  37 

Application  of  glycerin;  Clearing  the  grain  of  greasy  matter;  A  good 
glazing  liquor  for  sheepskins  38 

Trouble  with  chrome-tanned  sheep  leather,  and  prevention;  Cause  of 
defect  in  leather;  Good  method  of  preventing  the  trouble;  Bath  of 
sumac  or  palmetto  extract;  Decoction  of  sumac  leaves  .       .       .  .39 

Mordanting  chrome-tanned  sheepskins  40 


CHAPTER  III. 
Sheepskins, 
alum,  oil  and  napa  processes. 

Processes  of  alum  tawing;  Removal  of  the  animal  grease;  Removing  the 
acid  used  as  a  pickle;  Mode  of  obtaining  an  ordinary  quality  of  leather  .  41 

Preparation  of  an  extra  fine  quality  of  alum  leather  42 

A  process  of  white  tawing,  recently  patented  in  Germany;  Preparation  of 
very  soft  and  tough  white  leather  43 

Method  of  tawing  for  making  sheepskins  and  lambskins  into  very  soft, 
strong  glove  leather     ..........  44 

Use  of  Turkey-red  oil  in  the  tanning  of  sheep  and  lambskins  into  glove 
leather;  Combination  process  of  alum  and  chrome       .       .       .  .45 

Preparation  of  a  very  good  fat-liquor  for  this  class  of  stock;  Sheep  and 
lambskins  oil-tanned;  Good  method  of  washing  out  the  lime        .       .  46 

Process  of  oil-tanning;  Process  of  heating  the  leather;  Removal  of  sur- 
plus oil  47 

Preparation  of  very  soft,  tough  glove  leather;  Mode  of  oil-tanning  sheep 
and  lambskins  48 

Tanning  the  skins  by  a  combination  of  the  oil  with  the  salts  of  alumina; 
The  making  of  Napa  leather;  Origin  of  the  Napa  tannage;  Classes  of 
leather  made       ...........  49 

Original  process  of  making  Napa  leather,  and  modifications  of  it    .  .50 

Coloring  black  Napa;  Manner  of  using  direct  blue  paste;  Preparation  of  a 
good  blacking  for  this  class  of  leather;  Dampening  the  skins  down  for 
staking;  Buffing  the  skins;  Finishing  black  Napa  leather    .       .  .51 

Process  for  the  production  of  very  soft,  tough  leather      .       .       .  .52 

Another  process  of  preparing  sheepskins  for  linings,  bindings  and  similar 
purposes;  To  produce  quickly  and  cheaply  a  soft,  tough  leather  from 
sheepskins  suitable  for  gloves  and  mittens;  Preparation  of  the  mixture 
for  this  purpose    ...........  53 

Process  especially  adapted  to  sheepskin  fleshers  to  be  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  gloves,  for  bindings,  etc. ;  Preparation  of  the  fluid  for  this 
purpose  54 

Handling  the  skins  in  the  early  processes  of  the  beamhouse     .       .  .55 

Tanning  of  sheepskin  fleshers  by  any  of  the  chrome  processes  .       .  .56 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
Wool  Skins. 

the  tanning  of  shearlings,  sheep  pelts  for  mittens,  rugs  and 


SIMILAR  PURPOSES. 

PAGE 

A  good  method  of  tanning  the  skins       .......  57 

To  color  the  skins;  Another  method;  Preparation  of  a  tanning  solution  .  58 

Method  of  tanning  sheep  pelts  with  the  wool  on  59 

Cheap  and  simple  method  of  preparing  sheep  pelts  with  the  wool  on  .  60 
Effect  of  salt  and  alum  used  in  tanning  sheep  pelts;  Handling  the  pelts 

during  tanning;  Scouring  the  wool  after  tanning  .  .  .  .  .61 
Treatment  of  greasy  skins;  Tanning  the  skins  in  bark  extract  .       .  .62 


Draining  and  oiling  the  skins;  Mode  of  obtaining  a  desirable  shade  of 
brown;  Production  of  a  light  golden  color  63 

To  bleach  the  wool  on  alum-tanned  sheepskins;  A  very  simple  and  effec- 
tive method  of  removing  the  grease  from  sheep  pelts;  Manner  of  very 
cheaply  tanning  wool-skins  .........  64 

Another  method  somewhat  speedier;  Wool -washing  soap  and  its  prepara- 
tion  65 

A  very  satisfactory  method  of  tanning  sheepskins  with  wool  on,  shearlings, 
etc  66 

Most  important  requisite  in  dyeing  the  wool;  Best  way  to  scour  the 
alumed  pelts;  Mode  of  obtaining  a  seal  brown     .       .       .       .  .67 

Method  for  accomplishing  the  bleaching  of  sheep  pelts,  lambskins  and 
goatskins  tanned  with  the  wool  and  hair  on  68 


CHAPTER  V. 
Sheepskins, 
bark,  extract,  and  chamois  tanning. 

Use  of  various  tannages;  A  good  method  of  using  palmetto  extract; 
Tanning  of  pickled  skins   69 

Mode  of  obtaining  a  dull  finish;  A  combination  tannage;  Preparation  of 
very  excellent  leather  by  combining  a  chrome  and  a  vegetable  tannage; 
Use  of  palmetto  extract  to  supplement  the  chrome  tannage  .       .  .70 

Removing  the  acid  from  pickled  skins;  Use  of  palmetto  extract  in  com- 
bination with  quebracho;  The  coloring  and  finishing  of  vegetable 
tanned  skins;  Preparation  of  sheepskins  for  coloring    .       .       .  .71 

Effect  of  the  use  of  hard  water:  Cleanliness  a  very  important  element    .  72 

Skins  that  have  acquired  a  dark  shade  from  the  tannage  should  be  given 
the  dark  shades  of  dye;  Lactic  acid  a  very  good  article  to  use  in  color- 
ing sheepskins     .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  73 

Sorting  the  skins;  Applying  the  dye  and  finishing  the  leather;  Various 
methods  employed  74 


CONTENTS. 


xi 


PAGE 

Drumming  the  leather  in  warm  sumac  liquor  before  coloring  it  with  ani- 
line dyes;  Preparation  of  the  coloring  bath  ......  75 

Desirable  shades;  Ox-blood;  Desirable  chocolate  shade;  Desirable  shade 
of  green  76 

Use  of  logwood  in  dyeing  bark  tanned  leather  black;  A  good  black  on 
bark  and  extract  tanned  sheepskins     .       .       .       .       .       .  .77 

Skivers  and  mode  of  making  this  class  of  leather;  Preparation  of  a  good 
drench  for  this  class  of  goods  78 

Various  materials  used  in  tanning  skivers;  Necessity  of  careful  handling 

of  the  stock  during  tanning  79 

Tannage  for  a  common  grade  of  leather;  Coloring  of  sumac-tanned  skins.  80 

Numerous  ways  of  finishing  skivers;  Use  of  embossing  machines;  Special 
value  of  aniline  colors  for  the  maker  of  this  class  of  leather;  A  good 
process  of  tanning        •       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .81 

Chamois  leather  and  its  production;  Removing  the  lime;  Treatment  of 
the  skins;  Removal  of  surplus  water;  Application  of  oil      .       .       .  82 

Process  of  heating;  Effect  of  insufficient  and  of  overheating;  Removal  of 
the  oil;  Finishing  processes.       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .83 

Varying  methods  of  treating  the  skins;  Preparation  of  chamois  leather 
by  passing  the  prepared  skins  through  a  twenty-five  per  cent.  Turkey- 
red  oil  solution  •  .84 


CHAPTER  VI. 
Goatskins. 

beamhouse  work.  peeparing  the  skins  for  tanning. 

Object  of  the  soaking  and  softening  process;  Freeing  dry-salted  skins  from 
salt;  Softening  dried  skins;  Use  of  solutions  of  chemicals  to  hasten  the 
soaking  and  softening  ..........  86 

Serious  danger  in  connection  with  the  soaking  process;  Good  rule  to  be 
observed  in  soaking;  Damage  resulting  from  heating;  Importance  of 
guarding  against  heating  87 

The  liming  process;  Office  of  any  material  used  upon  raw  skins  in  prepar- 
ing them  for  tanning  into  leather;  Use  of  red  arsenic  in  connection 
with  lime;  Preparation  of  a  new  lime  with  red  arsenic.       .       .  .88 

Preparation  of  a  good  lime;  Use  of  red  arsenic  and  sulphide  of  sodium  in 
conjunction  with  lime  ..........  89 

Very  good  results  obtained  from  the  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  lime; 
Various  methods  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium;  Practice  when  it  is  de- 
sirable to  save  the  hair        .........  90 

Mixing  lime  with  the  sulphide  of  sodium;  Slacking  the  lime  .       .  .91 

Application  of  the  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium;  Further 
plumping  of  the  skins  .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .92 

Gathering  limes;  Placing  the  skins  in  the  first  lime;  Treatment  of  the 
skins  in  the  lime;  Process  with  the  use  of  paddle  vats.       .       .       .  93 


xii 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Bating  or  puring  of  goatskins  94 

Essential  qualities  of  goat  leather  at  the  present  time;  Production  of 
these  qualities;  Distinct  actions  of  lime  upon  raw  skins;  Effect  of  the 
use  of  lime  alone  upon  goatskins  95 

Effect  of  red  arsenic  upon  the  grain;  Bates  and  bating;  Materials  used 
for  this  purpose;  Pigeon  and  dog  dung;  On  what  the  efficacy  of  manure 
bate  depends  96 

Preparation  of  manure  bate;  Avoidance  of  stains  and  burns;  Some  dis- 
turbing influences  in  bating  97 

Necessity  of  thoroughly  cleansing  goatskins;  Further  treatment  after  the 
skins  have  been  pured  in  the  manure  bate  98 

The  bran  drench  as  applied  to  goatskins;  On  what  the  efficacy  of  this 
process  depends;  Preparation  of  the  drench  99 


CHAPTER  VII. 
The  Chrome-Tanning  of  Goatskins. 

The  original  and  most  commonly  used  two-bath  process,  and  practical 

method  of  carrying  out  this  process;  Preliminary  pickle  .  .  .101 
Composition  of  the  first  bath  of  this  process;  Another  method  of  giving 


the  skins  the  chrome  liquor  ....        .....  102 

Composition  of  the  second  bath  of  the  process;  A  new  process  of  two-bath 

chrome-tanning  103 

A  common  process  of  tanning  goatskins  with  the  one-bath  chrome  liquors  104 
Tanning  of  goatskins  directly  after  the  drenching  and  washing  with  the 
one-bath  chrome  liquors,  without  the  use  of  the  sulphate  of  alumina 
and  salt       ............  105 


Preparation  of  good  leather  by  tawing  the  skins  in  the  solution  of  sulphate 
of  alumina  and  salt;  Another  good  method  of  tanning  the  skins   .       .  106 

A  method  of  tanning  goatskins  with  the  one-bath  process        .       .       .  107 

Another  satisfactory  method  of  tanning  the  pickled  goatskins;  A  new  pro- 
cess of  acid  tanning  109 

S.  Z.  solution  and  the  S.  K.  solution,  and  their  composition    .       .  .110 

Chrome-tanning  alum-tanned  goatskins;  Preparation  of  very  fine  kid 
leather;  The  chrome  part  of  this  process      .       .       .       .       .  .111 

Suggestions  and  precautions  in  the  making  of  light  leather  by  any  chrome 
process  of  tanning;  Advantage  gained  by  sorting  the  skins;  Advisability 
of  the  use  of  a  liberal  quantity  of  salt  in  the  tanning  liquor  .       .  .112 

Great  nicety  of  proportions  required  for  two-bath  processes;  Manipulation 
of  one-bath  liquors  when  used  in  paddle  vats;  Strength  of  liquor  used  .  113 

Use  of  tanning  material  that  is  left  in  the  bath;  Length  of  time  required 
for  tanning  skins  in  drums;  Fat-liquoring    .       .       .       .       .  .114 

Sorting  the  tanned  skins  before  being  fat-liquored;  Certain  defects  and 
their  correction;  Cause  and  prevention  of  an  open  porous  grain;  Pre- 
vention of  a  gray  bottom  on  black  leather  115 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 


PAGE 

Flanky  goatskins;  Cause  of  a  faulty  condition  of  the  flanks;  Injury  to  the 
skins  by  prolonged  drumming      ........  116 

Coarse,  rough  grain  along  the  necks  and  shoulders  of  goatskins  and  how 
this  defect  may  be  overcome;  Necessity  of  very  carefully  handling  the 
cheaper  grades  of  goatskins  .       ,       .       .       .       .       .       .  .117 

Treatment  of  goatskins  in  a  hot  bath  of  sumac;  Effect  of  the  use  of  exces- 
sive quantities  of  salt  in  chrome-tanning      ......  118 


CHAPTEE  VIII. 

The  Finishing  of  Chrome-Tanned  Goatskins  into  Colored  and  Black, 
Glazed  and  Dull  Leather. 

A  number  of  processes  involved  in  the  finishing  of  goatskins  into  colored 
or  black  leather;  Dyeing  the  grain  side  of  the  leather  black  .       .       .  119 

Manner  of  grain  blacking;  Dyes  used      .......  120 

Method  of  getting  a  blue  flesh  with  nigrosine;  Preparation  of  a  good  liquor 
or  striker;  Accomplishment  of  fat-liquoring  and  grain-blacking  in  one 
operation     ............  121 

Dyeing  in  dye  boxes;  The  use  of  permanganate  of  potash  in  coloring 
leather;  Methods  of  applying  the  permanganate  of  potash    .       .  .122 

Advantages  resulting  from  this  process    .......  123 

Methods  of  coloring  skins  after  they  have  been  treated  with  permanganate 
of  potash;  Process  patented  by  W.  N.  Norris.  Princeton,  N.  J.;  Color- 
ing chrome-tanned  goatskins  with  aniline  dyes  124 

Washing  the  skins;  Use  of  sumac  as  a  tanning  material  in  coloring 
chrome-tanned  goatskins;  Another  method  of  preparing  the  skins  for 
coloring  125 

Necessity  of  coloring  chrome-tanned  skins  before  they  become  dry;  Use 
of  fustic  as  a  mordant  or  base  for  aniline  dyes  upon  chrome-tanned 
goatskins  126 

Palmetto  extract  as  a  mordant;  Clearing  the  grain  of  grease    .       .       .  127 

Practical  working  directions  for  dyeing  chrome-tanned  goatskins;  Mor- 
danting the  skins;  Necessity  of  knowing  the  quantity  of  dye  required.  128 

Experiments  on  a  small  scale;  Ox-blood  shade;  A  dark  rich  ox-blood 
shade;  A  correct  shade  of  ox-blood  129 

Production  of  a  good  ox-blood  shade;  Browns;  Desirable  chocolate 
brown  130 

Various  shades  of  brown;  Tan  shades;  Increase  of  the  solidity  and  firm- 
ness of  the  skins  131 

Results  obtained  in  the  coloring  process  to  a  great  extent  influenced  and 
determined  by  the  methods  employed  in  the  processes  through  which 
the  skins  have  been  worked  previous  to  coloring;  Necessity  of  thor- 
oughly soaking  and  softening  goatskins  before  they  are  depilated  or 
limed  132 


xiv 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Necessity  of  exercising  care  in  handling  the  skins  during  the  processes  of 

the  beam  house;  Cleansing  of  lime      .       .       .       .       .       .  .133 

Sorting  the  skins  according  to  texture  and  quality,  Results  obtained  in 

the  coloring  process  largely  dependent  on  the  quality  of  the  water  used; 

Efiect  of  very  hard  water;  Softening  of  hard  water  .  .  .  .  1 34 
Dissolving  aniline  dyes;Coloring  chrome-tanned  goatskins  with  sulfamine 

dyes;  Practical  working  directions  for  getting  several  very  desirable 

shades  with  sulfamine  dyes;  Browns  and  dark  tans  .  .  .  .135 
Dark  chocolate;  Chocolate  shade;  Formulas  useful  in  getting  light  shades 

of  tan;  Ox-blood  shade  136 

Various  shades  of  green;  Fat-liquoring;  The  process  of  fat-liquoring  .  137 
Treatment  of  the  skins  after  the  coloring  operations  are  completed; 

Preparation  of  a  very  good  fat-liquor   .       .       .       .       .       .  .138 

Striking  out;  Working  the  skins  soft      .       .       .       .       .       .  .139 

Glazing  and  finishing;  Seasonings  used;  Clearing  the  grain  of  greasy 

matter  and  solution  for  this  purpose;  Seasoning  on  black  leather  .  140 
Seasoning  for  glazing  colored  leather;  Application  of  a  light  coat  of  oil; 

A  process  for_kid-glove  leather    .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .141 

Preparation  of  kid-glove  leather  by  tawing;  Preparation  for  tanning  of 

skins  from  which  the  grain  has  been  removed  after  liming  .  .  .  142 
Essential  qualities  of  glove  leather  143 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DONGOLA  AND  InDIA-TaNNED  GoAT  AND  ShEEPSKINS. 
DONGOIiA  TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS. 

Purposes  to  which  dongola  tannage  is  especially  applicable;  Composition 
of  dongola  tannage;  Soaking;  Sheep  pelts  and  their  treatment     .  ,144 

Soaking  goatskins;  Preparing  the  skins  for  tanning;  Process  of  liming    .  145 

Drenching  the  skins;  Preparation  of  the  bran  drench      .       .       .  .146 

Use  of  lactic  acid  in  the  preparation  of  both  classes  of  skins;  Pickling  the 
skins;  Preparation  of  a  good  pickle;  The  tanning  process;  Composition 
of  the  tanning  liquor   147 

Another  dongola  liquor  for  both  goat  and  sheepskins;  Peculiar  and  dis- 
tinctive qualities  of  palmetto  extract  148 

Production  of  a  leather  possessing  some  of  the  qualities  of  both  chrome 
and  vegetable-tanned  stock;  Fat-liquoring  and  currying  goatskins       .  149 

Preparation  of  a  very  good  fat-liquor  for  combination-tanned  skins;  Fat- 
liquoring  sheepskins;  Moistening  back  the  leather  before  dyeing         .  150 

Clearing  the  grain  of  grease;  Coloring  the  flesh      .....  151 

Blacking  the  grain;  Composition  of  the  grain  blacking;  Application  of 
the  blacking;  Application  of  the  striker,  and  its  composition        .       .  152 

Coloring  the  flesh  blue;  Clearing  the  grain  for  colors;  Finishing  the 
leather  153 

The  coloring  arid  finishing  of  India-tanned  skins;  Retanning  with  sumac.  154 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


PAGE 

Alum,  salt  and  gambier  liquor;  Treatment  of  the  skins  for  black  leather.  155 

Use  of  logwood  and  borax;  Treatment  for  very  light  and  fancy  shades; 
Clearing  the  grain  of  the  leather  when  greasy;  Use  of  Turkey-red  or 
alazarine  oils  156 

Another  process  for  finishing  India  goat  and  sheepskins;  Application  of 
a  solution  of  formic  aldehyde       ........  157 

Method  for  the  improvement  of  imperfectly  tanned  skins        .       .       .  158 


CHAPTER  X. 
Patented  Processes  of  Tanning  and  Tawing. 

Patented  ''method  of  tawing"  (by  Messrs.  Dolly  and  Crank)  for  the 
final  finishing  of  East  India  kips,  goatskins,  basils,  and  white  leather, 
and  the  improvement  of  imperfectly  tanned  skins.       .       .       .  .159 
A  particular  case  which  serves  to  illustrate  the  steps  involved.       .       .  160 
Variation  in  the  amount  of  solution  employed;  Time  required.       .       .  161 
Temperature  of  the  bath;  Improvement  of  tanned  or  imperfectly  tanned 

skins  and  hides  162 

EflTects  produced  on  these  skins;  Hastening  of  the  action  of  the  natural 
tannins  as  introduced  into  the  skin;  Eflfect  of  the  peculiar  action  of 

formic  aldehyde  upon  the  fibres  of  the  skin  163 

Special  advantage  aflforded  by  this  process;  Property  of  formic  aldehyde 
of  fixing  the  collogen  and  other  gelatinous  constituents  of  the  skin; 
Sulpho-compounds  or  their  mixture  with  fats  and  oils;  Investigations 

of  Armand  Miiller,  of  New  York  164 

Benefit  derived  from  the  use  of  these  oils;  Production  of  the  oils  or  sul- 
pholeates;  Examples  of  the  methods  of  using  the  sulpholeates  for  tan- 
ning leather  165 

Alum  tawing  with  Turkey-red  oils  ........  166 

Oil-tanning  or  chamoising;  Object  of  this  process  of  alum  tawing    .       .  167 
Preparation  of  the  solution;  First  step  in  the  process;  Preparation  of  the 
second  bath  ............  168 

The  use  of  formic  aldehyde  as  a  tanning  agent;  Preparation  of  the  skins 
for  the  process;  Treatment  of  the  skins  with  the  formic  aldehyde  in  the 

form  of  a  solution  169 

Use  of  the  formic  aldehyde  in  a  gaseous  state  .       .....  170 

A  French  process  by  the  use  of  which,  it  is  claimed,  that  the  cohesion  of 
the  fibres  is  destroyed  and  putrefaction  is  prevented     ....  171 

Process,  patented  by  Chas.  Knees,  Oshawa,  Canada,  for  which  it  is 
claimed  that  it  makes  leather  that  is  waterproof,  elastic,  pliable,  heat 

and  frost-proof  172 

New  method  for  belt,  shoe  and  leather  laces,  patented  by  James  C.  Mc- 

Connell  173 

Preparation  of  the  stuffing  mixture   .       •  174 

Process  with  bark  liquor,  saltpetre,  alum  and  glauber  salt,  patented  by 
J.  W  Hitt,  Lisle,  N.  Y  176 


xvi 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Process  of  tanning  which  consists  of  the  use  of  an  antiseptic  tanning  com- 
position, patented  by  Julius  Engelke,  Cincinnati,  O.    .       .       .       .  176 
Process  of  rapid  tanning,  patented  by  John  Hoelck,  Chicago,  Ills.  .       .  179 
Another  process  of  tanning  hides  somewhat  similar  to  the  foregoing       .  181 

A  composition  of  matter  with  processes  of  tanning  182 

A  process  of  tanning  which  has  for  its  object  the  treating  of  hides  and 

skins  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  them  from  becoming  hard   .       .  183 
A  process  which  has  for  its  object  the  providing  of  a  method  of  tanning 
leather  whereby  the  hides  are  rendered  soft  and  pliable,  patented  by 

G.  W.  Hersey,  Empire,  Wis  184 

Process  of  manufacturing  and  finishing  leather  which  is  adapted  for  the 
use  of  vamps  and  tops  of  shoes,  patented  by  C.  E.  and  H.  A.  Lappe, 

Pittsburg,  Pa  185 

Rapid  process  of  drum  tanning,  patented  by  Jacques  Durio,  Turin,  Italy.  187 
Another  rapid  process  of  drum  tanning,  invented  by  S.  and  G.  Durio, 

Turin,  Italy  191 

Practical  application  of  the  original  Schultz  two-bath  process  .  .  .193 
Description  of  another  process  discovered  and  patented  by  Schultz  .       .  196 

Tanning  of  skins  according  to  the  Zahn  process  197 

Treatment  if  the  leather  is  to  be  colored  fancy  shades  ....  198 
Description  of  an  improved  process  *of  chrome-taiming,  patented  by  W. 

M.  Norris,  Princeton,  N.  J.  199 

Advantage  of  this  method  of  tanning  201 

Reducing  with  hydrogen  dioxide  when  skins  are  saturated  with  a  chro- 

mate,  patented  by  Samuel  P.  Sadtler,  Philadelphia,  Pa.      .       .       .  202 
One  of  the  various  processes  used  to  accomplish  the  changing  of  the 
chromic  acid  in  skins  into  chromic  oxide,  patented  by  S.  Chadwick, 

Philadelphia,  Pa  205 

Method  of  tawing  for  the  making  of  chrome  leather,  patented  by  H.  Ende- 

mann,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y  206 

One-bath  process  of  chrome  tanning        .......  208 

Tanolin  (the  Martin  Dennis  process)  210 

Process  of  chrome  tanning  which  produces  leather  that  possesses  the  good 
qualities  of  both  alum  and  chrome  leather,  patented  by  Geo.  W.  Adler, 

Philadelphia,  Pa  213 

Tanning  of  skine  with  a  liquor  composed  of  whiting,  salt,  chrome,  alum, 
saltpetre  and  muriatic  acid;  Another  one-bath  process  for  which  water- 
proof qualities  are  claimed,  patented  by  Joseph  W.  Smith,  Girard,  Ohio.  216 
A  simple  one-bath  liquor;  Another  interesting  one-bath  tanning  liquor 
known  as  chromine,  manufactured  under  patents  by  The  Eureka  Tan- 
nage Co.,  Philadelphia,  Pa  218 

A  liquor  useful  in  one-bath  chrome-tanning  called  Progress  Tan  Liquor  .  221 
Vacrome,  a  single-bath  mineral-tanning  agent,  made  by  the  Vacuum  Oil 

Co.,  Rochester,  N.  Y  223 

Preparation  of  liquors  with  the  use  of  chrome-alum  that  have  given  good 
results  when  used  upon  light  skins;  Preparation  of  liquor  for  tanning 
skins  225 


CONTENTS. 


xvii 


CHAPTER  XI. 
Deerskins. 

PAGE 

Removing  the  hair  from  deerskins;  Mixture  used  for  the  purpose    .       .  227 
Object  of  liming  the  skins;  Removing  the  grain  of  the  skins;  Various 
ways  of  tanning  the  skins;  A  process  which  produces  good  results  upon 

deerskins  228 

Another  process  that  results  in  soft,  tough  leather  .....  229 
Manner  of  tanning  the  skins;  Composition  of  a  liquor  in  which  deerskins 
may  be  satisfactorily  tanned  .........  230 

Tawing  with  sulphate  of  alumina  231 

An  old-fashioned  and  very  simple  method  of  tanning  deerskins       .       .  232 
Special  adaptability  of  the  chrome  methods  of  tanning  to  deerskins;  Pick- 
ling the  skins;  Tanning  without  pickling     ......  233 

A  good  method  of  chrome-tanning  the  skins    •       .       .       .       .       .  234 

Two-bath  processes  for  tanning  deerskins        ......  235 

A  somewhat  crude  process  of  tanning  deerskins  in  use  among  the  Indians  236 
Oil  or  chamois-tanning  deerskins;  Removing  the  lime  from  the  skins; 
Oiling  and  beating  the  skins        ........  237 

Process  of  heating;  Effects  of  too  high  and  of  insufficient  heating;  Bleach- 
ing the  skins;  Various  methods  of  handling  the  skins  ....  238 

Process  for  making  very  soft,  tough  leather  of  deerskins  ....  239 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Patented  Methods  of  Depilating. 

Methods  of  using  new  XXX  Depilatory,  patented;  Strength  of  the  solu- 
tion used  241 

Preparation  of  the  second  lime;  Handling  the  slats  while  liming     .       .  242 

Treatment  of  light  hair  skins  when  the  hair  is  not  to  be  saved,  and  when 
it  is  to  be  saved  243 

Use  of  new  XXX  Depilatory  upon  hides  intended  for  sole  leather; 
Methods  of  unhairing  ..........  244 

Treatment  of  skins  intended  for  various  kinds  of  leather  ....  245 

Plumping  or  swelling  of  hides  intended  for  splitting  after  unhairing  with 
depilatory  water  246 

Treatment  of  skins  intended  for  tough  upper  leather  if  no  value  is  placed 
upon  the  hair;  Treatment  of  horse  hides;  An  interesting  process  for 
preparing  hides  and  skins  for  tanning  invented  and  patented  by  John 
and  Edward  Pullman,  London,  England  247 

Mixture  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  chalk,  or  whiting,  proposed  for  use  in 
unhairing  249 

Process  known  as  the  Pierson  and  Moor  process,  patented       .       .       .  250 


xviii 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Patented  Processes  of  Bating. 

PAGE 

German  patented  process  of  bating  hides  and  skins  and  swelling  them; 
Use  of  the  sulfonic  acids  of  the  cresols  as  a  bate;  Employment  of  a 
mixture  of  the  cresol  sulfonic  acid  with  varying  quantities  of  free  sul- 
phuric acid  252 

Mode  of  obtaining  cresol  sulfonic  acids;  Preparation  of  the  bate;  Anti- 
septic property  of  cresol  sulfonic  acid   .......  253 

Process  of  bating  by  the  use  of  a  compound  solution  of  sulphuric  acid, 
borax  and  glauber  salt,  patented  by  N.  Wilson,  Becket,  Mass.     .       .  254 

Bating  with  potatoes  and  yeast,  process  patented  by  William  Oetlinger, 
Philadelphia,  Pa  255 

The  Norris  new  solid  bate,  patented  by  W.  N.  Norris,  Princeton,  N.  J.  256 

Bating  with  naphthaline  sulphuric  acids,  patented  by  C.  S,  Hull  and 
P.  S.  Burns,  Boston,  Mass  257 

Advantages  resulting  from  the  use  of  the  naphthaline  sulphuric  acids; 
The  use  of  coal-tar  bate  258 

Preparation  of  the  bating  solution   ........  259 

An  interesting  patented  process  of  bating,  invented  by  Chas.  W.  Koch, 
Milwaukee,  Wis  260 

Patented  process  for  the  purpose  of  neutralizing  lime  in  hides,  skins  and 
glue  stock  by  means  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  invented  by  Chas.  W.  Cooper, 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y  261 

Process  of  bating  in  which  bichromate  of  potash  is  used,  patented  by 
Henry  Schlegel,  Lapeer,  Mich.   .  262 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


The  Manufacture  of  Calfskin  Leather. 

Beam-house  processes;  Various  ways  of  tanning  and  finishing  calfskins.  264 
Grading  and  classification  of  green  calfskins;  Grading  as  to  qualities;  Sub- 


division to  weights  265 

Soaking  process  266 

Effects  of  soaking  for  a  long  time;  Injurious  effect  of  salt  upon  becoming 

dissolved  in  the  water;  Putrefaction  in  old  soaks  267 


A  good  method  of  soaking  salted  skins;  Use  of  borax  in  the  soaking  pro- 
cess   ,       .       .  268 

The  essential  thing  to  be  accomplished  in  the  preparation  of  calfskins  for 
any  chrome  process;  A  popular  process  of  preparing  calfskins  for  tan- 


ning by  chrome  methods   269 

Various  rules  for  preparing  the  limes      .......  270 

Various  ways  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium  :  271 

Bating  processes  as  applied  to  calfskins;  The  bran  drench       .       .       .  273 


CONTENTS. 


xix 


PAGE 

Very  good  results  obtained  by  the  use  of  lactic  acid;  Preparation  of  the 

drench  275 

Drenching  in  a  pin-mill  drum;  Advantages  of  lactic  acid.  .  .  .  276 
Another  method  of  using  bran  for  deliming  the  skins;  Manure  bating     .  277 

CHAPTEK  XV. 

Calfskins  and  Chrome  Processes. 

Different  ways  of  tanning  calfskins  with  the  two-bath  acid  process;  Solu- 
tion for  the  first  bath  in  which  the  skins  may  be  tanned  by  being 
drummed  279 

Application  of  the  various  methods  of  tanning  goatskins  with  one-bath 
processes  in  the  same  manner  to  calfskins    .        .....  280 

Striking  out,  pressing  and  shaving  the  skins;  Black  chrome-tanned  calf- 
skins; Dyeing  the  flesh  side  of  black  chrome  leather    ....  281 

Advantage  of  using  the  powdered  products  of  logwood;  Use  of  logwood 
paste,  and  of  hemolin  ..........  282 

Use  of  blue  nigrosine  for  obtaining  a  very  desirable  blue  flesh ;  Prepara- 
tion of  a  good  staining  liquor;  Most  simple  and  easily-prepared  stain    .  283 

Practice  in  staining,  fat-liquoring  and  dyeing  calfskins;  Preferred  method 
of  operation;  Application  of  the  grease       ......  284 

Emulsion  for  fat-liquoring  light  calfskins  intended  for  glazed,  dull  or 
boarded  finish;  Emulsion  for  heavy  calfskins       .....  285 

Manipulation  of  the  leather  at  the  end  of  fat-liquoring    ....  286 

Grain  blacking;  Logwood  for  blacking  the  grain;  Preparation  of  a  good 
striker  287 

Preparation  of  a  good  iron  striker  288 

Manipulation  of  the  leather  after  the  oiling  operation;  Preparation  of  a 
seasoning  suitable  for  calfskins    ........  289 

Another  formula;  Colored  chrome-tanned  calfskins;  Eetanning  with  pal- 
metto extract       ...........  290 

Use  of  sumac  in  place  of  palmetto;  Preparation  of  the  skins  with  sumac.  291 

Use  of  extract  of  fustic  as  a  mordant       .......  292 

Directions  which  will  be  found  of  practical  use  to  any  one  attempting  to 
color  chrome-tanned  calfskins;  Formulas  for  obtaining  very  satisfactory 
shades  of  dark  wine  color,  commonly  called  ox-blood  upon  skins  re- 
tanned  or  mordanted  with  tanning  extracts  .       .       .       .       .       .  293 

Light  tan  shades;  Use  of  sulfamine  dyes  upon  chrome-tanned  calfskins   .  294 

Fat-liquoring  ............  295 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Calfskins — Vegetable  and  Combination  Tanned. 

Palmetto  extract  and  its  use  for  tanning  297 

Fat-liquor  for  this  tannage;  Hemlock,  quebracho,  gambler  and  other 
tannages      ............  298 


XX 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Qualities  of  leather  made  with  gambier;  Combination  of  gambler  with  a 
chrome  or  mineral  process;  Retanning  calfskins  with  palmetto  extract.  299 

Tanning  skins  in  liquors  made  up  of  palmetto  and  hemlock  or  other  ex- 
tracts; Retanning  chrome  leather  with  gambier  or  palmetto        .       .  300 

Handling  of  one-bath  chrome  liquors;  Hemlock  or  combination  liquors 
for  calfskins  and  kips;  A  good  dongola  liquor  301 

To  fat-liquor  combination  and  vegetable-tanned  calfskins        .       .       .  303 

Other  fat  liquors;  Coloring  and  finishing  of  vegetable  and  combination 
tanned  calfskins  ...........  304 

Solution  for  a  blue  flesh;  Modes  of  obtaining  a  good  blue  flesh,  and  a 
yellow  flesh  ........... 

Dyeing  leather  black  upon  the  grain  ....... 

Eecipes  for  strikers  which  are  used  to  develop  the  color  .       .       .  , 

Dull  finish  and  glazed  finish;  Gambier,  palmetto  and  combination-tanned 
calfskins  

Preparation  of  the  skins  for  any  shade  of  color;  Preparing  the  skins  by 
the  use  of  tartar  emetic  and  antimonine  309 

Aniline  dyes  on  vegetable-tanned  stock  310 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

Calfskins  Tanned  for  Glove  and  Mitten  Purposes. 

Alum  process;  Preparation  of  the  skins;  Preparation  of  the  tanning  liquor.  311 

Process  for  making  good  leather  312 

Preparation  of  soft  and  glove  leather  from  calfskins        ....  313 

Making  glove  leather  of  calfskin  fleshers  314 

A  simple  method  of  tanning  calfskins;  Essential  qualities  of  glove  leather.  315 
Limes  and  their  preparation    .........  316 

Advantages  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium  and  red  arsenic;  Pickling  calfskins.  317 
Making  calfskin  glove  leather  by  a  one-bath  chrome  process  .  .  .  318 
Other  processes  of  chrome  tanning;  Coloring  chrome-tanned  calfskins  for 

glove  leather       ...........  319 

Preparation  of  very  soft  and  nearly  white  glove  leather  by  treating  the 

skins  to  a  warm  bath  of  sumac;  Process  of  oil-tanning  calfskins  to  make 

exceedingly  soft  and  durable  leather  320 

Oils  used  and  method  of  oil-tanning  321 

Bleaching  the  skins;  Use  of  yellow  ochre;  Other  processes  for  soft  and 

tough  leather  322 

Other  oil  processes;  Yellow  calfskin  oil  leather  323 

Good  fat-liquor  for  this  class  of  leather  324 


CONTENTS. 


xxi 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Tanning  Furs  and  Hair  Skins. 

PAGE 

Soaking  and  softening  the  raw  skins;  Modes  of  tanning  the  skins    .       .  325 


A  process  for  hair  skins  and  hides  for  robes  327 

The  tanning  of  hides  for  robes,  coats,  etc  329 

Alum  and  salt  process  330 

Dressing  or  cutting  down  to  a  light  substance  ......  331 

A  good  method  of  retanning  the  hides;  A  combination  liquor  of  quebracho 

and  hemlock  extract  332 

Softening  the  stock ;  Dyeing  with  ursol  dyes  333 

Proportions  of  the  mordanting  materials        ......  334 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
Kangaroo  Leather. 

Characteristics  of  the  skin  of  the  kangaroo;  Softening  the  skins  .  .  335 
Depilating  the  skins;  Process  for  this  purpose  if  the  hair  is  not  to  be 

saved  336 

Liming  kangaroo  skins  in  arsenic  limes  .......  337 

Bating  the  skins  and- various  methods  of  bating  and  drenching  .  .338 
Gambler  process  for  kangaroo  skins  ........  339 

Combination  process  340 

Preparation  of  kangaroo  leather  of  remarkably  fine  texture;  Combination 

of  alum  and  chrome  processes      ........  341 

One-bath  chrome  process;  Other  one-bath  processes        ....  342 

Use  of  the  two-bath  process     .........  343 

Blacking  chrome-tanned  kangaroo  ........  344 

Preparation  of  a  good  striker  to  develop  the  black  on  the  grain  .  .  345 
Preliminary  preparation  of  chrome-tanned  kangaroo  leather  to  receive 

any  shade  of  color  or  black;  Sumac  treatment;  Palmetto  treatment  .  347 
Treatment  of  gambler,  palmetto  and  combination-tanned  kangaroo  leather 

after  tanning;  Application  of  fat-liquors      ......  348 

Treatment  of  the  leather  when  it  is  to  be  colored  yellow  on  the  flesh  side .  349 
Mode  of  obtaining  a  blue  or  purple  back;  Treatment  of  the  leather  for  a 

dull  finish  350 

On  what  a  great  deal  of  the  success  attained  in  coloring  the  tanned  leather 

depends;  Preparation  of  the  leather  for  coloring  when  the  grain  is 

greasy  as  well  as  cloudy  351 

Seasonings  upon  both  chrome  and  vegetable-tanned  leather     .       .       .  352 


XXll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Methods  of  Bleaching  Leather. 

PAGE 

Retanning  the  skins  in  sumac  before  bleaching ;  Various  methods  of 
bleaching    ............  353 

Mode  of  lightening  the  color  of  dark  tanned  leather        ....  354 

Bleaching  hemlock-tanned  sole-leather    .......  357 

Advantages  of  this  mode  of  bleaching  over  the  ordinary  process      .       .  358 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Preparing  Heavy  Hides  for  Tanning. 

Condition  in  which  the  hides  are  received;  Soaking  process     .       .       .  360 
Object  of  changing  the  water;  Time  required  for  soaking  ....  361 

Effects  of  careless  soaking  ;  Soaking  green-salted  hides ;  Injury  to  the 
stock  by  heating  ...........  362 

Soaking  dry  or  flint  hides       .....       ....  363 

Agents  employed  for  hastening  the  soaking;  Danger  of  putrefaction.       .  364 
Various  methods  of  soaking  dry  hides     .......  365 

Methods  of  preparing  dry  hides  for  tanning  after  they  have  been  soaked; 
Use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  red  arsenic  to  overcome  the  objection- 
able features  of  lime;  Preparation  of  the  hides  for  soft  and  pliable 

leather  366 

Preparation  of  a  good  lime     .        ........  367 

A  good  method  to  follow  in  liming  the  hides  368 

Strengthening  the  lime  with  sulphide  of  sodium;  Best  method  of  liming.  369 
Importance  of  the  bating  process;  Use  of  manures  for  bating;  Lactic  acid 

for  bating  370 

Cause  of  dark  and  brittle  spots  upon  the  grain  of  leather  made  by  a  vege- 
table process  371 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Side  Leathers  for  Shoe  Purposes  and  Methods  of  Tanning  Them. 

Various  processes  of  tanning;  Tanning  with  gambler  ....  372 
Running  the  leather  in  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  alum  and  salt  .  .  373 
Palmetto  extract,  and  a  good  method  of  tanning  the  sides  in  palmetto 

liquor  374 

Quebracho,  its  qualities  and  its  use  375 

Derivation  of  the  name  quebracho;  Extract  from  the  wood  of  the  quebracho 

tree     .............  376 

Important  point  to  be  observed  in  using  quebracho  extract;  The  use  of 

the  barkometer    ...........  377 


CONTENTS. 


xxin 


PAGE 

Color  of  leather  produced  by  quebracho;  Best  results  obtained  with  que- 
bracho extract;  Ketanning  with  gambler  or  palmetto  ....  378 

Composition  of  the  dongola  tannage;  Combination  process  of  gambler  and 
quebracho    ............  380 

Preparation  of  a  good  dongola  liquor       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  381 

Strength  of  tanning  liquors;  Chrome-tanned  side  leather.       .       .       .  382 

Bating  process;  Use  of  manures  and  of  lactic  acid  for  bating    .       .       .  383 
Tanning  the  grains;  Good  process  of  one-bath  tanning    ....  384 

Making  chrome  upper  from  cowhides      .......  385 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Coloring,  Fat- Liquoring  and  Finishing  of  Hemlock,  Gambier, 
Palmetto,  Quebracho  and  Combination-tanned  Sides 
INTO  Shoe  Leather. 

Washing  the  sides;  Process  of  fat-liquoring     ."      .'      .       .       .       .  387 

Fat-liquor  formulas        ..........  388 

Coloring  the  flesh  of  side  leathers    ........  389 

Practical  formulas  for  the  making  of  fat-liquors  suitable  to  side  leathers; 

Effects  of  different  oils  and  greases  on  leathers  .....  390 
Best  oils  to  use;  Use  of. glycerine;  Fat-liquoring  with  mulsine  .  .  391 
Kature  of  mulsine  and  its  effect  on  leather;  Preparation  of  fat-liquor  with 

mulsine  392 

Application  of  the  fat-liquor  393 

Fat-liquoring  chrome  leather  with  mulsine     ......  394 

Chrome-tanned  side  glove  leather;  Preparation  of  pickling  solution  .  395 
Drumming  in  the  tanning  liquor     ........  396 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
Horsehides  and  Coltskins. 

Methods  used  in  working  horsehides  and  coltskins;  Softening  .  .  397 
Use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  upon  horsehides;  Use  of  lactic  acid        .       .  398 

Whip  and  base-ball  cover  leather  399 

Preparation  of  tough  leather  of  a  light  color  400 

Preparation  of  very  soft  and  tough  leather  by  the  use  of  a  form  of  the  old 
calf-kid  process;  Horsehide  shoe  leather;  Tanning  of  Russia  coltskins; 
Use  of  palmetto  extract       .........  401 

Mode  of  coloring  the  flesh  yellow  for  dongola,  combination  and  gambier- 
tanned  Russia  coltskins  and  horsehide  leather  for  shoe  purposes;  Color- 
ing the  flesh  blue;  Solution  for  a  bright  glazed  finish   ....  403 

Seasoning  liquor  for  a  glazed  finish;  Treatment  of  horsehides  intended  for 

glove  leather  404 

Process  for  glove  and  mitten  leather       .......  405 


xxiv 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Chrome  methods  of  tanning  for  making  horsehides  into  glove  material    .  406 

Horsehides  tanned  in  oil   .       .  408 

Oil-tanning  with  Turkey-red  oil  410 


CHAPTEE  XXV. 

Harness,  Line,  Strap,  Belt,  Bag,  Case,  Lace  and  Russet  Leathers. 


Liming  and  bating  the  hides;  Tanning  with  a  combination  of  quebracho 

and  hemlock  extracts  411 

Testing  the  liquors  for  tanning  strength  .       .       .       .       .       .  .412 

Toning  down  the  harshness  of  leather  tanned  with  hemlock  liquors; 

Palmetto-tanned  leather  41S 

Preparation  of  lace  leather     .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .414 

Composition  for  tanning  hides  intended  for  lace  leather;  Composition  for 
lace  and  whip  leather  ..........  415 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Miscellaneous  Information. 

Methods  of  degreasing  leather;  Use  of  hydraulic  presses  for  removing  the 
natural  grease  from  skins;  Appearance  of  white  grease  spots  upon  the 

leather  41  & 

Treatment  of  greasy  leather  with  lactic  acid  before  it  is  colored;  Treat- 
ment of  leather  with  naphtha;  Removal  of  gummy  or  resinous  matters 
from  an  impure  or  low  grade  of  oil      .       .       .       .       .       .       .  417 

A  patented  process  of  coloring  418 

Soap  receipts;  To  prepare  a  soap  useful  in  making  fat-liquors  .       .       .  420 

Potash  soft  soap;  Formula  for  a  good  soap  422 

Aqueous  solutions  of  soap;  Blacking  and  softening  compositions;  Compo- 
sition for  cleaning,  blacking  and  oiling  leather     .....  423 
Acme  soap,  patented  by  Henry  Parker,  Wilmington,  Del. ;  Composition 
useful  in  softening  and  adding  to  the  durability  of  tanned  leather,  pat- 
ented by  E.  Z.  Coffee,  Philadelphia,  Pa  424 

Leather  dressing  possessing  waterproof  qualities,  patented  by  J.  J.  Baulch 

and  others,  St.  Louis,  Mo  425 

To  put  weight  into  sole  leather;  Process  for  the  use  of  lactic  acid  in 

plumping  and  tanning  leather,  patented  by  Sigmond  Saxe,  New  York.  426 
Logwood  liquor;  Clearing  leather  with  alum  and  salt;  Use  of  borax  and 

lactic  acid  428 

Bleaching  leather  with  sulphuric  acid  and  sumac  429 

Use  of  oxalic  acid  as  a  bleaching  agent    .......  430 

Appendix.    Beamit,  one-bath   beam-house  process,   patented  by  the 
American  Hide  Process  Co.,  Chicago,  Ills.  ......  431 

Index  433 


PEACTICAL  TANNING. 


CHAPTER  L 

SHEEPSKINS. 
WOOL-PULLING  PICKLED  SKINS. 

The  first  operation  to  which  sheepskins  are  subjected  by 
the  tanner  or  the  wool-puller  is  soaking.  By  means  of  this 
process  the  skins  are  softened,  and  cleaned  by  the  salt  and 
dirt  becoming  dissolved  and  removed  from  them. 

The  relations  between  the  soaking  process  and  the  sub- 
sequent processes  of  the  beamhouse  or  pullery,  and  the 
tannery  are  close ;  and  unless  the  first  process  is  properly 
carried  out,  the  skins  are  liable  to  show  various  defects 
during  the  processes  that  follow.  Sheep  and  lambskins  are 
usually  received  b}^  the  tanner  or  the  wool-puller  in  what 
is  known  as  green-salted  condition.  Unless  they  are  very 
heavily  salted,  a  few  hours'  soaking  is  generally  sufficient 
to  soften  them,  and  to  dissolve  the  salt  and  remove  the  dirt. 

In  warm  weather,  when  the  water  is  warm,  a  soaking  for 
ten  hours  is  enough,  while  in  cold  weather  the  skins  may 
be  soaked  without  injury  for  from  twelve  to  twenty-four 
hours,  although  no  exact  rule  needs  to  be  followed.  The 
most  essential  thing  to  be  accomplished  is  the  removal  of 
the  salt,  which  when  it  is  left  in  the  skins  causes  cloudy 
grain,  sometimes  very  difficult  to  overcome  in  coloring  the 
tanned  leather  fancy  shades. 

The  effects  of  too  much  soaking  are  loose,  soft  skins  and 
a  pitted  or  marked  grain.    These  are  not  liable  to  occur 


2 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


unless  the  skins  or  pelts  are  left  in  water  for  an  unreason- 
able length  of  time. 

The  best  results  follow  the  use  of  clean,  fresh  water  for 
the  soaking.  After  the  soaking  is  completed,  the  pelts 
should  be  removed  from  the  water,  and  thrown  over  horses 
and  allowed  to  drain  for  some  time,  or  they  may  be  passed 
through  an  extractor  or  wringer,  by  means  of  which  the 
surplus  water  is  taken  from  them.  It  is  a  matter  of  some 
importance  that  the  salty  and  dirty  water  be  gotten  rid  of 
before  the  pelts  are  depilated,  as  an  imperfect  grain  fre- 
quently results  when  this  is  not  done. 

Before  the  process  of  removing  the  wool  is  begun,  the 
pelts  are  often  piled  in  heaps,  and  in  warm  weather  heating 
sets  in  and  the  pelts  are  injured  more  or  less,  according  to 
the  degree  of  heat  developed.  When  heating  occurs,  the 
skins  rapidly  decompose  and  the  loss  of  the  stock  can  be 
prevented  only  by  exposure  to  the  air  at  once  or  by  immer- 
sion in  cold  water.  The  best  course  to  be  followed  is  for 
no  delay  to  be  allowed  to  take  place,  but  to  pass  the  pelts 
at  once  into  the  following  process : 

WOOL-PULLING  WITH   SULPLIIDE  OF  SODIUM. 

To  accomplish  the  removal  of  the  wool,  there  are  several 
methods  that  may  be  used.  The  method  in  most  common 
use  is  by  the  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium.  This  material  is 
used  in  solution  alone,  or  in  conjunction  with  slacked  lime. 
Patented  depilatories  are  also  in  general  use  and  produce 
very  good  results.  They  are  used  without  lime,  being  sim- 
ply reduced  to  a  liquor  and  applied  to  the  flesh  sides  of  the 
pelts. 

A  common  method  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium  is  carried 
out  as  follows :  After  soaking,  draining  or  extracting,  the 
pelts  are  painted  with  a  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide  of 
sodium.  A  solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium  is  also  used 
without  the  lime.  Very  good  results  are  obtained  by  com- 
bining the  two  articles. 


SHEEPSKINS. 


3 


The  strength  of  the  sulphide  of  sodium  Hquor  should  be 
slightly  varied  according  to  the  character  of  the  skins  to  be 
treated.  For  heavy  bucks  and  merinos,  the  strength  should 
be  from  twenty  to  twenty-four  degrees,  Baume  test ;  for  thin, 
open  and  coarse  wool  skins,  from  fourteen  to  eighteen  de- 
grees. Upon  young  lambs  the  strength  of  the  liquor  should 
be  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four  degrees. 

There  are  -no  hard  nor  fast  rules  to  be  followed,  nor  is  it 
necessary  that  such  a  rule  should  be  observed,  as  the  skins 
are  not  readily  injured  by  the  use  of  strong  liquor  ;  the 
material  is  merely  wasted.  In  all  cases  the  strength  does 
not  need  to  be  greater  than  just  sufficient  to  swell  the  skins 
and  to  start  the  wool. 

The  lime  should  be  thoroughly  slacked  and  reduced  to 
milk  of  lime,  before  it  is  used,  by  the  use  of  hot  water  and 
by  being  constantly  stirred  from  the  time  the  water  is  added 
to  the  lime  until  the  latter  is  completely  dissolved.  About 
one-half  of  a  barrel  of  lime  may  be  used  to  fifty  gallons  of 
water.  It  is  important  that  every  particle  of  lime  be  thor- 
oughly dissolved,  since  unslacked  lime  will  injure  the  skins. 
The  solution  should  be  cool  when  used,  and  used  at  the 
consistency  of  thin  paste.  Five  or  six  pailfuls  of  lime  may 
be  used  in  a  barrel  of  sulphide  of  sodium  solution.  In 
place  of  the  sulphide  of  sodium,  red  arsenic  is  sometimes 
used. 

APPLYING  THE  SULPHIDE  OF  SODIUM  AND  LIME. 

The  pelts  are  spread  upon  a  smooth  surface,  and  the 
mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  applied  to  the  flesh 
side.  The  liquor  is  best  put  on  by  means  of  vegetable-flbre 
brushes,  and  only  enough  liquor  is  put  on  to  cover  the  skin 
without  running  off".  While  using  the  sulphide  of  sodium, 
the  workman  must  wear  rubber  gloves  to  prevent  his  hands 
from  becoming  sore. 

The  pelts  are  next  rolled  or  folded  up  with  the  wool  upon 
the  outside  and  placed  in  piles.    If  any  of  the  sulphide 


4 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


liquor  comes  in  contact  with  the  wool  it  dissolves  and 
destroys  it  at  once.  When  the  weather  is  cold  from  eight 
to  ten  skins  may  be  put  in  a  pile  together,  but  in  w^arm 
weather  not  more  than  four  or  five,  and  if  they  are  to  lie 
twenty-four  hours  or  longer  they  should  be  singled  out  so 
that  one  may  lie  over  the  next  and  so  on.  The  painting 
should  be  done  in  a  cool,  moist  room.  During  the  summer 
care  must  be  taken  that  the  skins  do  not  heat,  and  during 
the  winter  that  they  do  not  get  frozen. 

The  wool  becomes  loosened  in  a  few  hours,  but  it  is  best 
not  to  remove  or  "  pull "  it  until  the  following  day,  as  it 
will  then  come  off  cleaner  and  easier.  The  length  of  time 
required,  however,  depends  upon  the  strength  of  the  depil- 
atory solution,  temperature  of  the  room,  and  the  season  of 
the  year.  Very  young  lamb  skins,  upon  which  the  liquor 
is  often  used  full  strength,  should  be  "  pulled  "  as  soon  as 
the  wool  can  be  removed,  and  then  put  at  once  into  clean, 
cold  water.  It  is  best  to  "  pull  "  the  pelts  double  as  they 
come  from  the  painters,  for  in  this  way  the  wool  only  is 
exposed,  and  there  is  less  danger  of  injuring  it. 

TREATMENT  OF  THE  SKINS  AFTER  PULLING." 

After  the  wool  has  been  removed  from  the  pelts  the  slat 
should  be  opened  flesh  side  out  and  at  once  put  into  clean, 
cold  water  to  which  some  sulphide  of  sodium  may  be 
added.  In  this  they  will  be  safe  for  some  time  from  heat- 
ing or  spoiling.  No  injury  can  come  to  skins  that  have 
been  treated  with  sulphide  of  sodium  so  long  as  the  grain 
is  kept  moist  and  not  allowed  to  dry  out  and  harden.  For 
this  reason  the  skins  should  not  be  exposed  to  the  air  any 
more  than  is  absolutely  necessary.  The  sulphide  of  sodium 
thoroughly  softens  the  skins  and  removes  all  scruff  and  dirt, 
also  the  short,  fine  hairs.  The  stronger  the  depilatory 
solution  is,  and  the  longer  the  skins  remain  with  the  solu- 
tion upon  and  in  them,  and  the  less  the  solution  is  washed 
out  before  liming,  the  weaker  and  less  liming  is  required. 


SHEEPSKINS. 


5 


THE  LIMING  PROCESS. 

While  sulphide  of  sodium  and  the  arsenicated  depila- 
tories are  excellent  agents  for  removing  the  wool,  the  mere 
removal  of  the  wool  is  not  all  that  must  be  accomplished 
before  good  leather  can  be  made  from  the  skins.  The  slats 
after  being  depilated,  must  be  further  swollen  or  plumped 
in  order  to  accomplish  the  necessary  dissolution  of  the 
animal  matter  in  them.  Lime  not  only  does  this,  but  it 
also  unites  with  the  fatty  matter  of  the  skins  and  saponifies 
it  so  that  it  can  be  readily  removed  by  drenching  before 
the  skins  are  tanned. 

Limes  known  as  gathering  limes  are  commonly  used  by 
many  wool-pullers  and  tanners.  It  is  good  practice  to  use 
such  limes  only  so  long  as  they  are  kept  clean  and  fresh. 
When  they  are  used  over  and  over,  new  lime  is  required  to 
strengthen  the  old  lime  liquor,  and  unless  the  liquor  is  kept 
fresh  and  clean  the  leather  will  not  look  so  clean  and  bright 
as  is  generally  desired.  The  swelling  property  of  a  lime 
liquor  decreases  with  age,  while  the  dissolving  property  of 
an  old  and  a  fresh  lime  is  about  tlie  same. 

The  first  lime  in  which  the  skins  are  placed  may  be  half 
renewed  for  each  lot  of  skins  by  allowing  one-half  of  the  old 
liquor  to  run  out  and  by  being  replaced  with  water.  This 
applies  to  limes  that  have  been  used  before,  and  when  it  is 
done,  the  second  lime  should  be  new  and  fresh.  When  it 
is  necessary  to  make  a  new  lime  to  start  with,  about  two 
buckets  of  lime  should  be  slacked  in  about  one-third  of  a 
barrel  of  water.  This  is  poured  into  the  lime  vat,  and  will 
answer  for  from  three  hundred  to  four  hundred  skins,  ac- 
cording to  their  size.  This  first  lime  should  be  kept  clean 
and  fresh  and  not  used  too  long.  In  summer,  to  get  the 
best  results,  it  should  not  be  used  more  than  for  four  times, 
or  for  four  lots  of  skins,  but  in  winter  it  may  be  used  again 
as  long.  The  skins  should  be  left  in  this  lime  from  one 
day  until  the  next,  then  hauled  out  and  more  lime  added, 
or  the  skins  may  be  put  into  another  and  stronger  lime. 


6 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Upon  the  third  day  the  skins  are  again  pulled  out  and  the 
liquor  again  strengthened,  and  each  time  the  skins  are 
hauled  out  the  lime  should  be  thoroughly  stirred  up  from 
the  bottom  of  the  vat. 

From  four  to  six  days  are  generally  required  to  lime 
sheepskins  of  average  thickness.  Very  heavy  skins  may 
be  limed  one  or  two  days  longer.  When  paddle  vats  are 
used  for  liming,  the  skins  are  kept  in  constant  motion,  and 
the  objects  of  the  liming  process  will  be  accomplished  in 
less  time  than  when  still  limes  are  used.  When  the  latter 
are  used  the  skins  should  be  stirred  about  occasionally  and 
hauled  out  daily.  When  vat  room  is  scarce,  it  is  good  prac- 
tice to  haul  the  skins  out  after  they  have  been  in  the  lime 
a  few  days,  and  to  let  them  lie  in  piles  for  a  few  days. 
They  should  be  protected  and  not  allowed  to  dry  out  upon 
the  grain. 

The  length  of  time  required  to  thoroughly  lime  the  skins 
depends  upon  the  thickness  of  the  skins,  time  of  the  year 
and  temperature  of  the  liquor.  More  time  is  required  in 
winter  than  in  summer. 

Fresh  lime  should  be  added  to  the  liquor  and  skins  every 
day,  in  order  to  keep  the  former  clean  and  sweet.  When 
the  limes  are  kept  clean  and  fresh  there  is  not  the  danger 
of  injuring  the  skins  that  there  is  when  the  limes  are  allowed 
to  become  stale.  In  such  limes  a  few  days  overtime  will 
not  cause  any  injury,  but  if  a  stronger  depilitant  is  used  in 
connection  with  the  lime,  some  care  is  necessary  according 
to  the  quantity  of  such  material  used  and  the  condition  of 
the  lime  liquor,  whether  it  is  old  or  comparatively  new. 

While  the  skins  are  being  passed  through  the  processes 
preparatory^  to  the  actual  process  of  tanning,  they  are  in  a 
very  sensitive  condition,  and  if  they  are  exposed  to  the  air 
for  a  length  of  time  the  grain  is  liable  to  show  up  clouds 
and  streaks  later  on.  When  skins  crack  and  break  during 
the  finishing  processes,  it  is  generally  because  the  precau- 
tion to  keep  them  moist  was  not  heeded.    Another  point  of 


shep:pskins. 


7 


some  importance  is  that  the  best  results  accrue  when  only 
skins  of  like  nature  and  size  are  limed  and  processed 
together.  The  leather  will  be  of  much  more  uniform  qual- 
ity when  this  is  done,  than  when  large  and  heavy  and 
small  and  light  skins  are  worked  through  together.  Some 
classes  of  skins  absorb  more  lime  in  less  time  than  others, 
and  the  lime  takes  effect  upon  such  skins  more  readily  than 
upon  others,  hence  it  is  apparent  that  in  a  mixed  lot  of 
skins  some  get  more  lime  than  others  and  more  than  they 
need,  while  others  do  not  get  enough  lime.  This  results  in 
an  uneven  quality  of  leather.  Sheepskins  are  sometimes 
burned  by  particles  of  unslacked  lime  and  also  by  the  use 
of  some  unreliable  brand  of  sulphide  of  sodium  containing 
iron  and  other  impurities. 

Low-liming  results  in  close,  firm  leather.  Over-liming 
in  soft,  spongy  leather.  Nothing  can  be  done  to  remedy 
the  defect  caused  by  over-liming,  while  skins  that  are  insuf- 
ficiently limed  are  difficult  to  tan  and  do  not  carry  oil  and 
grease  well. 

Sulphide  of  sodium  used  in  connection  with  lime  renders 
the  lime  more  soluble  and,  therefore,  more  easily  removed 
by  washing.  When  great  softness  and  elasticity  are  desired 
in  the  leather,  the  skins  require  to  be  limed  from  eight  to 
ten  days  and  then  very  thoroughly  drenched  and  washed 
before  they  are  pickled  or  tanned.  Some  of  the  substance 
of  the  skins  is  dissolved  and  the  resulting  leather  will  be 
soft  and  stretchy.  This  condition  is  desired  upon  glove 
leather  but  very  undesirable  in  shoe  leather.  Sheepskins 
are  naturally  soft  and  open  and  require  careful  treatment 
to  get  them  just  right.  When  the  liming  is  carried  too  far, 
the  fibres  are  weakened  to  such  an  extent  as  to  impair  the 
strength  of  the  leather. 

A  great  many  of  the  imperfections  met  with  in  finished 
leather  are  caused  by  improper  and  careless  methods  of 
liming  and  drenching  the  skins.  Some  of  the  most  serious 
defects  are  coarseness  and  roughness  of  the  grain,  looseness 


8 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  sponginess,  or  the  opposite  of  this  condition,  that  is, 
close,  hard  skins.  If  the  leather,  after  being  properly 
tanned,  is  hard  and  tinny,  it  can  be  usually  relied  upon 
that  the  skins  were  not  limed  enough,  or  if  the  grain  is 
drawn,  they  were  limed  too  much.  Sometimes  skins  after 
tanning  have  hard  black  or  brown  spots,  also  spots  from 
which  the  grain  has  been  removed.  These  defects  are  gen- 
erally caused  by  improper  soaking  and  preparation  of  the 
skins  before  painting,  or  the  skins  while  being  treated  with 
sulphide  of  sodium  came  in  contact  with  rusty  iron.  When 
dissolving  the  sulphide  of  sodium,  copper  or  composition 
pipe  should  be  used.  All  iron  should  be  kept  away  from  it. 

Much  of  the  grease  found  in  sheepskins  may  be  gotten 
rid  of  by  pressing  them  between  hydraulic  presses  after 
liming.  To  prevent  the  slipping  of  skins,  they  should  be 
sprinkled  with  sawdust.  After  the  liming  process  is  com- 
pleted the  skins  are  washed  in  clean,  w^arm  w^ater  in  order 
to  remove  from  them  as  much  lime  as  possible,  then 
trimmed  and  short-haired,  and  they  are  then  ready  for  the 
drench.  The  ends  and  objects  to  be  achieved  by  this  pro- 
cess are  the  entire  removal  of  all  the  lime  and  sulphide  of 
sodium  in  the  skins,  neutralizing  them  and  causing  them 
to  lose  their  firm  swollen  condition  acquired  during  liming 
and  to  become  clean  and  soft.  Soft,  pliable  leather  cannot 
be  made  until  these  things  are  accomplished.  Several 
methods  may  be  used  to  accomplish  the  desired  objects. 

THE  BRAN  DRENCH. 

This  method  of  drenching  and  preparing  sheepskins  is 
one  of  the  two  oldest  methods  in  use.  While  it  is  not  the 
best  process  that  can  be  used,  it  produces  very  good  results 
upon  sheepskins  when  the  work  is  properly  done.  No  hard 
nor  fixed  rule  can  be  followed  in  the  manipulation  of  this 
drench.  The  operator  must  use  judgment  and  this  can 
only  be  acquired  by  experience.  It  goes  further  toward 
getting  the  right  results  than  any  fixed  rule. 


SHEEPSKINS. 


9 


The  bran  known  as  "middlings"  is  usually  considered 
the  best  to  use,  because  it  is  finer  and  contains  more  flour 
than  the  coarse  grades.  Some  wool-pullers  and  tanners  in 
preparing  their  skins  use  old  sour  tan  liquor  that  has  been 
used  for  previous  lots  of  skins.  When  such  liquor  is  used, 
one  pailful  of  bran  is  ample  for  each  one  hundred  skins, 
in  enough  of  the  liquor  to  enable  the  skins  to  process 
nicely.  The  bran  is  allowed  to  ferment  and  become  sour 
before  it  is  used.  The  liquor  should  be  always  warm,  at  a 
temperature  of  90  degrees,  and  maintained  at  this  tempera- 
ture during  the  operation.  The  skins  may  be  left  in  the 
first  drench  over  night,  and  in  the  morning  a  new  drench 
prepared.  For  this  warm  clean  water  is  used  in  place  of 
the  sour  liquor,  and  one  and  one-half  buckets  of  bran  is 
enough  for  each  one  hundred  skins.  The  skins  may  safely 
be  left  in  this  liquor  for  twelve  hours  in  warm  weather, 
and  a  few  hours  longer  in  cold  weather.  After  the  skins 
are  taken  from  this  drench  they  are  worked  upon  the  grain, 
w^ashed  off  in  warm  water,  and  are  then  ready  for  the 
pickling  process. 

The  action  of  the  bran  drench  is  due  to  the  fermentation 
which  takes  place,  by  which  acids  are  formed.  In  order  to 
have  the  drench  become  sour  as  soon  as  it  is  made  up  and 
the  fermentation  fully  developed,  it  is  necessary  to  cook  the 
bran  before  it  is  used.  The  tub  should  be  about  one-half 
full  of  water,  then  the  bran  put  in  and  a  pailful  of  old  sour 
liquor  added,  and  the  whole  thoroughly  cooked  by  the  use 
of  steam.  When  no  sour  liquor  is  to  be  had,  a  cake  of 
yeast  or  a  gill  of  sulphuric  acid  may  be  used  to  start  the 
bran  working.  One  method  is  to  use  about  two  hundred 
pounds  of  bran  for  each  six  hundred  skins  of  medium  size. 
After  the  bran  has  fermented,  the  drenching  tub  should  be 
filled  with  the  necessary  quantity  of  water,  heated  to  about 
ninety  degrees.  One-half  of  the  bran  is  put  in,  and  the 
drench  well  stirred.  Then  one-half  of  the  skins  are  placed 
in  the  liquor,  which  is  again  thoroughly  stirred,  then  the 


10 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


balance  of  the  bran  is  added  and  the  remaining  skins. 
The  skins  should  be  put  in  as  quickly  as  possible  so  that 
they  will  get  an  equal  and  uniform  degree  of  heat.  This 
is  best  accomplished  by  having  the  skins  placed  in  piles 
along  the  sides  of  the  tub  and  several  men  employed  to  do 
the  work.  The  stirring  of  the  drench  liquor  is  a  matter  of 
some  importance,  in  order  that  all  lumps  of  dough  may  be 
broken  up.  The  bran  sometimes  forms  lumps  w^hich  retain 
the  heat,  and  when  these  open  up  upon  coming  in  contact 
with  the  skins,  the  latter  are  burned  and  small  holes  and 
hard  spots  appear. 

Another  method  of  preparing  and  using  the  bran  drench 
is  as  follows  :  For  a  pack  of  skins  ranging  in  number  from 
four  hundred  to  live  hundred,  one-half  of  a  barrel  of  bran 
is  added  to  or  mixed  with  enough  water  to  make  a  mushy 
mass.  This  is  allowed  to  stand  forty-eight  hours  to  sour, 
and  is  then  emptied  into  the  water  in  the  drenching  vat. 
Then  are  added  three  pints  of  oil  of  vitriol  and  three  pecks 
of  common  salt,  and  the  entire  liquor  mixed  together  and 
heated  to  ninety  degrees.  A  paddling  of  four  or  five  hours 
will  generally  suffice  for  medium-weight  skins ;  heavy 
skins  requiring  about  six  hours.  At  the  end  of  such 
lengths  of  time  the  skins  will  be  ver}^  soft  and  clean,  and  if 
they  are  intended  to  be  colored  fancy  shades  may  be  given 
a  slight  working  upon  the  grain.  For  black  or  dark-colored 
leather  the  drenching  alone  will  suffice,  the  skins  going  at 
once  into  the  pickle  by  which  they  are  further  cleaned  and 
bleached. 

The  grain  of  the  skins  sometimes  becomes  rough  and 
clouded  in  the  bran  drench,  and  the  leather  thus  affected 
cannot  be  colored  fancy  shades.  Frequently,  too,  when  the 
fermentation  of  the  bran  is  not  fully  developed,  or  the 
drench  is  used  too  hot,  too  strong  or  for  too  great  a  length 
of  time,  the  leather  cracks  in  the  finishing.  The  amount 
of  drenching  required  by  sheepskins  depends  upon  the 
amount  of  lime  in  them  and  the  degree  of  development  of 


SHEEPSKINS. 


11 


the  drench.  Less  time  is  also  required  in  summer  than  in 
winter.  When  the  skins  become  soft  and  slippery  and  be- 
gin to  settle  to  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  they  should  be  re- 
moved at  once,  given  a  working  on  the  grain,  washed  off 
in  warm  water  and  are  then  ready  for  the  pickling  process. 

A  method  of  drenching  sheepskins,  that  has  nothing  to 
recommend  it  but  age  and  long  use,  is  by  the  use  of  animal 
and  bird  dung.  This  method,  at  one  time  used  almost  ex- 
clusively, is  being  rapidly  displaced  by  cleaner  and  safer 
and  more  scientific  methods.  The  use  of  manure  is  very 
risky  and  uncertain.  Constant  attention  must  be  given  the 
stock,  and  even  when  this  is  done  no  one  can  tell  whether 
a  lot  of  skins  will  come  out  right  or  not,  owing  to  the  dis- 
turbing influences  over  which  the  workman  has  no  control. 

DRENCHING  WITH  LACTIC  ACID. 

Because  of  its  simplicity,  safety  and  cleanliness,  having 
none  of  the  unpleasant  features  of  the  bran  drench,  lactic 
acid  is  a  very  satisfactory  article  to  use  in  deliming  sheep- 
skins. During  the  fermentation  of  the  bran  drench  organic 
acids  are  formed,  chief  and  most  important  of  which  is  lactic 
acid.  In  fact  it  is  this  agent  that  neutralizes  and  dissolves 
the  lime  in  the  skins.  It  is  not  strange,  therefore,  that  pure 
lactic  acid  should  be  used  for  the  purpose  of  deliming  skins. 
Its  use  is  very  simple  and  safe.  It  has  no  objectionable 
smell  and  more  than  is  actually  required  may  be  used  with- 
out injuring  the  skins.  For  sheepskins  intended  for  both 
glove  and  shoe  leather,  it  is  used  in  the  following  manner : 
After  the  skins  are  taken  from  the  lime  they  are  washed  in 
warm  water,  in  order  to  remove  from  them  as  much  of  the 
lime  as  possible.  The  quantity  of  water  necessary  to  drench 
the  lot  of  skins  is  run  into  a  vat  and  heated  to  about  ninety 
degrees.  To  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  one  gallon 
of  lactic  acid  is  added.  This  quantity  of  acid  is  not  always 
required.  Sometimes  three  quarts  is  a  full  plenty,  de- 
pending upon  the  amount  of  lime  in  the  skins.    The  warm 


12 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


drench  serves  not  only  to  dissolve  the  lime  in  a  short  time, 
but  also  to  bring  down  the  skins,  making  them  soft  and 
thin,  while  a  cold  bath  neutralizes  the  lime  and  leaves  the 
skins  full  and  plump.  The  skins  are  placed  in  the  pre- 
pared drench  and  constantly  stirred  about.  A  vat  with 
paddles  is  best  for  this  process.  After  being  in  the  liquor 
from  one  to  two  hours  the  skins  will  be  found,  in  the  majo- 
rity of  instances,  sufficiently  drenched  to  be  removed  from 
the  liquor.  In  some  cases  it  is  necessary  to  work  the  skins 
through  the  slating  machine,  or  upon  the  beams.  For 
black  leather,  and  in  most  instances  for  colored  leather  and 
when  the  skins  are  to  be  sold  in  pickled  condition,  they 
may  be  drained  after  drenching  and  passed  into  the  pick- 
ling process  without  further  washing  or  working. 

When  the  skins  have  been  heavily  limed  a  more  thorough 
drenching  is  necessary,  and  the  skins  need  to  be  washed  be- 
fore they  are  pickled.  The  drenching  with  lactic  acid  may 
also  be  done  in  drums.  From  one  to  tw^o  pounds  of  acid 
are  used  in  twenty-five  gallons  of  warm  water  for  every 
hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  the  stock  milled  in  this 
liquor  in  the  drum  for  thirty  minutes.  In  the  majority  of 
cases  no  further  washing  is  required.  The  next  and  last 
process  to  which  the  wool-puller  treats  his  sheepskins  is 
the  pickling  process. 

THE  PICKLING  PROCESS. 

The  liquor  in  which  the  skins  are  pickled  is  composed  of 
water,  sulphuric  acid  and  salt.  It  should  have  a  sharp, 
sour  taste,  with  some  flavor  of  salt.  About  two  quarts  of 
acid  and  fifty  pounds  of  salt  for  one  hundred  medium  and 
large  skins,  makes  a  good  liquor.  Enough  water  should  be 
used  to  cover  the  skins  w^ell  and  to  enable  them  to  be  stirred 
about  without  being  crowded.  After  the  drenching  process 
the  skins  should  be  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  an  hour  or 
two,  and  be  then  placed  in  the  pickle.  They  should  remain 
in  this  liquor  from  two  to  four  hours,  and  should  be  stirred 


SHEEPSKINS. 


13 


about.  The  effects  of  this  process  are  to  cleanse  and  bleach 
the  skins  and  to  put  them  into  such  condition  that  they 
may  be  kept  for  an  indefinite  length  of  time  without  spoil- 
ing. The  pickling  liquor  may  be  used  over  and  over  by 
being  strengthened  up  with  acid  and  salt  for  each  lot  of 
skins.  After  one  lot  of  skins  has  been  pickled,  about  one- 
half  of  the  quantities  of  acid  and  salt  used  in  the  first 
instance  should  be  added  to  keep  the  liquor  up  to  a  satis- 
factory strength. 

When  used  continually,  about  once  in  two  months  the 
old  liquor  should  be  run  out  and  new  prepared.  After 
pickling  the  skins  should  be  drained  thoroughly  or  pressed, 
and  are  then  ready  for  shipment  or  tanning. 

The  pickled  skins  are  sorted  or  graded  according  to 
quality,  size  and  substance. 

WOOL-PULLING  WITH   NEW   XXX   DEPILATORY  ;  PATENTED. 

Very  good  results  are  obtained  from  the  use  of  the  pat- 
ented new  XXX  depilatory.  Many  wool  pullers  prefer  this 
article  to  the  regular  sulphide  of  sodium.  The  methods  of 
using  this  article  are  very  similar  to  those  that  have  been 
described  for  sulphide  of  sodium,  except  that  the  depilatory 
is  dissolved  in  hot  water  and  used  alone  and  not  in  com- 
bination with  lime.  The  sheep-pelts  are  soaked  and  run 
through  wool-cleaning  machines  and  extracted,  or  they  are 
allowed  to  drain  for  some  hours,  then  the  solution  of  depil- 
atory is  applied  with  a  vegetable-fibre  brush  to  the  flesh 
side  of  the  pelts,  at  a  strength  ranging  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-four  degrees  Baume.  The  pelts  are  folded  with  the 
wool  on  the  outside  and  left  in  piles  until  the  depilatory 
has  taken  effect,  then  the  wool  is  removed  and  the  slats  are 
limed  in  weak  limes  from  one  to  seven  days,  being  stirred 
about  during  this  time,  then  worked  out  on  the  beam, 
drenched,  washed,  pickled  and  tanned.  The  lime  may  be 
dispensed  with  and  the  skins  prepared  for  tanning  in  a 
weak  solution  of  the  depilatory  or  of  sulphide  of  sodium 


14 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


from  four  to  ten  degrees  strength  from  three  to  six  days, 
after  which  they  are  drenched  and  pickled,  and  good  tough 
leather  obtained. 

The  advantages  gained  by  the  use  of  this  patented  depil- 
atory, or  by  the  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  for  wool  pulling 
over  the  old  methods  in  which  the  wool  is  removed  by 
sweating  it  off,  or  by  the  use  of  lime  and  red  arsenic,  are 
that  in  the  sweating  procees  the  skin  must  be  decomposed 
to  quite  an  extent  before  the  wool  can  be  removed,  and  un- 
less very  carefully  watched  the  skins  often  lie  too  long,  or 
the  heat  becomes  too  great,  and  the  skins  are  spoiled  or 
seriously  damaged  for  leather  purposes.  When  lime  is  used 
alone,  and  years  ago  it  was  the  only  depilatant  in  general 
use,  the  damage  is  mostly  to  the  wool,  by  reason  of  its  con- 
tact with  the  lime.  When  lime  and  red  arsenic  are  used 
the  w^ool  becomes  harsh  to  the  touch,  and  when  it  is  kept 
for  a  long  time  it  becomes  dry  and  brittle,  and  it  also  as- 
sumes a  yellowish  cast,  and  will  never  scour  out  perfectly 
white  nor  take  certain  aniline  dyes. 

The  lime  process  and  the  lime  and  red  arsenic  method, 
depend  largely  upon  the  condition  of  the  weather  for  the 
length  of  time  required  to  start  the  wool.  In  extremely 
cold  weather  it  is  almost  impossible  to  work  at  all,  and 
consequently  the  number  of  skins  that  can  be  pulled  is 
very  uncertain.  By  the  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  new 
XXX  depilatory  these  objectionable  features  are  overcome. 
The  results  are  always  certain  and  uniform,  less  labor  and 
handling  are  required  to  accomplish  the  work  and  the 
products  of  wool  and  skins  are  of  a  superior  quality,  the 
resulting  leather  also  being  of  finer,  closer  grain  and 
tougher  fibre,  with  no  loss  of  substance  or  w^eight.  The 
sweating  process,  at  one  time  largely  used  by  wool  pullers, 
has  become  obsolete  and  is  never  used  at  the  present  time. 


CHAPTER  11. 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP 
LEATHERS. 

PREPARATION  OF  SHEEPSKINS  FOR  CHROME  TANNING. 

Sheepskins  are  naturally  full  of  grease,  and  before  they 
are  tanned  with  chrome  liquors  it  is  necessary  that  as  much 
of  the  grease  as  possible  be  removed  from  them.  This  is 
accomplished  by  wringing  them,  also  by  the  use  of  a 
hydraulic  press,  the  latter  method  being  generally  preferred 
to  the  former,  as  it  is  more  effectual.  Skins  that  are  in- 
tended for  shoe  leather  require  a  very  thorough  pressing  in 
order  that  very  little  grease  may  be  left  in  them,  as  grease 
left  in  the  grain  prevents  a  clear,  bright  finish.  Grease  left 
in  the  skins  is  also  a  great  barrier  in  the  way  of  the  dyer's 
getting  clear  and  uniform  shades  of  color. 

A  number  of  dozens  of  skins  to  the  limit  of  the  capacity 
of  the  press,  are  spread  out  smoothly  between  the  plates  of 
the  press.  To  prevent  slipping,  the  skins  are  sprinkled 
with  sawdust.  As  much  pressure  as  the  skins  can  stand 
without  injury  is  applied,  and  large  quantities  of  grease 
flow  from  them.  The  pressure  is  so  great  that  the  skins 
are  made  to  look  like  pieces  of  tin,  and  require  a  drumming 
in  salt  water  to  soften  them.  The  skins  are  also  sometimes 
treated  with  naphtha.  Other  methods  might  be  used,  but 
they  not  only  remove  the  grease  but  take  out  much  of  the 
life  of  the  skins  as  well. 

REMOVING  THE  ACID  FROM  PICKLED  SKINS. 

A  very  satisfactory  method  of  tanning  pickled  sheepskins 
with  one  bath  chrome  liquors,  and  one  that  is  in  common 
use,  consists  of  the  skins  being  first  tawed  with  sulphate 

(15) 


16 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


of  alumina  and  salt,  before  the  chrome  liquor  is  applied  to 
them.  In  this  way  a  leather  is  made  that  is  of  plump 
body  and  smooth  fine  grain.  When  this  method  of  tanning 
is  used,  it  is  necessary  to  remove  the  acid  from  the  skins  be- 
fore the  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  are  applied.  When 
the  acid  is  not  removed  or  neutralized,  the  leather  dries  out 
hard  and  tinny  and  lacking  in  strength.  To  accomplish 
the  removal  of  the  acid  several  methods  may  be  used.  One 
bath  chrome  liquors  are  not  all  alike  and  on  account  of  their 
differences  the  methods  of  preparing  the  skins  for  one  liquor 
do  not  always  work  right  when  other  liquors  are  used. 

A  very  common  method  of  drenching  pickled  sheep  skins 
consists  of  a  solution  of  whiting  and  salt,  followed  by  a  light 
drenching  in  a  bath  of  bran  and  salt.  Before  the  skins 
are  drenched  they  should  be  pressed  and  then  drummed  up 
in  salt  water,  so  as  to  open  up  and  soften  the  fibres. 

The  temperature  of  the  drench  should  be  about  ninety 
degrees  Fah.  For  five  dozen  skins  five  per  cent,  of  their 
weight  of  salt  and  two  pounds  of  bolted  whiting  should  be 
used  in  twelve  gallons  of  water.  The  skins  are  run  in  the 
drum  in  the  liquor  for  thirty  minutes  and  are  then  allowed 
to  rest  in  the  liquor  for  some  time.  A  few  ounces  of  sal 
soda  may  be  added  to  the  liquor.  After  the  drench  of 
whiting  and  salt  the  skins  may  be  thrown  into  a  light  sour 
bran  drench  for  one-half  hour,  to  which  enough  salt  has 
been  added  to  keep  the  skins  from  smelling,  after  which 
they  may  be  washed  in  warm  salt  water  and  are  then  ready 
for  tanning.  The  skins  require  to  be  freed  of  all  the  whit- 
ing or  they  will  be  brittle  after  tanning.  After  the  washing 
the  skins  should  be  allowed  to  drain  for  some  time  before 
they  are  tanned. 

The  w^hiting  and  salt  give  the  skins  an  alkaline  character 
which  sometimes  causes  them  to  tan  too  rapidly  upon  the 
surface,  causing  the  grain  to  become  rough  and  coarse.  The 
object  of  the  second  drench  of  l)ran  and  salt  is  to  overcome 
this  tendency  and  produce  a  smooth  grain.    A  drenching 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


17 


in  bran  and  salt  also  answers  the  purpose  of  removing  the 
acid  without  the  use  of  the  whiting.  The  salt  is  absolutely 
necessary  in  the  drench  to  hold  the  skins  from  swelling. 

A  drenching  in  a  solution  of  coal-tar  bate  and  sal  soda 
not  only  serves  to  remove  the  acid  pickle,  but  to  remove 
some  of  the  surface  grease,  which  is  a  desirable  thing  to  be 
accomplished,  especiall}^  if  the  leather  is  to  receive  a  glazed 
finish.  When  the  coal-tar  bate  is  used  the  procedure  is  as 
follows:  For  five  dozen  medium-size  skins  about  twenty- 
five  gallons  of  water  heated  to  ninety  degrees  are  used.  In 
one  pail  of  warm  water  is  dissolved  one  pound  of  sal  soda, 
and  in  another  pail  two  pounds  of  the  bate  are  dissolved. 
One-half  of  the  bate  solution  and  all  of  the  soda  solution  are 
added  to  the  w^ater.  The  liquor  is  stirred  a  few  minutes 
and  then  the  other  half  of  the  bate  solution  is  added,  and 
the  drench  is  then  ready  for  use.  The  skins,  after  being 
pressed  and  run  in  salt  water,  are  placed  in  the  prepared 
drench,  one  at  a  time  and  opened  out.  After  being  stirred 
about  for  about  ten  minutes  it  will  be  found  that  the  pickle 
has  been  removed  and  the  skins  may  then  be  taken  from 
the  drench  and  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  some  time 
before  they  are  tanned. 

A  COMMON  METHOD  OF  CHROME  TANNING  SHEEPSKINS. 

Very  good  leather  is  made  by  applying  chrome  tanning 
liquors  to  a  previously  alum  tanned  skin.  After  the 
drenching  and  draining  the  skins  are  pickled  in  a  solution 
of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt.  The  usual  formula  is,  for 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  weighed  after  draining, 
three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  six  to  eight 
pounds  of  salt.  Glauber  salt  may  also  be  used  in  quantity, 
about  four  pounds  to  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins. 
These  articles  are  dissolved  in  warm  water  before  they  are 
used,  and  the  solution  is  placed  in  the  drum  along  with  the 
skins  and  the  drum  run  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  until 
the  skins  have  acquired  the  requisite  degree  of  softness  and 
2 


18 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


smoothness  of  the  grain.  Although  the  sulphate  of  alumina 
is  a  tanning  agent,  it  really  does  not  act  as  one  in  this  way 
of  using  it,  as  it  is  all  washed  out  before  the  leather  is  dried 
out.  Its  principal  use  is  to  plump  the  skins  and  to  prevent 
contraction  of  the  fibres  and  drawing  of  the  grain.  When 
there  is  no  hurry  for  the  leather,  the  skins  may  be  taken 
after  the  drumming  in  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt,  and 
thrown  over  horses  and  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  as 
long  a  time  as  possible.  They  will  improve  in  quality  when 
this  is  done  and  eventually  grow  into  much  better  leather. 
Or  they  may  be  taken,  hung  up  and  dried,  and  after  drying 
be  allowed  to  lie  some  time  before  they  are  chrome  tanned. 
The  longer  they  are  left  in  this  dry  state  the  better  will  be 
the  finished  leather.  When  they  are  to  be  tanned  they  are 
washed  back  in  the  drum  until  every  spot  is  softened,  then 
they  are  given  the  chrome  liquor. 

When  a  continuous  procedure  is  wanted,  after  the  drum- 
ming in  alumina  and  salt,  and  without  the  skins  being 
taken  from  the  drum,  the  concentrated  tanning  fluid  is  ap- 
plied to  the  skins  and  the  process  is  completed  in  two  to 
three  hours'  time.  After  the  skins  have  been  drumming  in 
the  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  and  have  acquired  the  desired  degree 
of  softness  and  smoothness  of  grain,  a  solution  of  tanning 
material  is  prepared,  consisting  of,  for  each  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skin  in  the  drum,  three  gallons  of  the  concen- 
trated tanning  material  mixed  with  three  gallons  of  water. 
This  solution  is  divided  into  three  portions,  one  of  which 
is  added  to  the  . contents  of  the  drum,  skins,  alumina  and 
salt,  and  the  drum  run  for  thirty  minutes  ;  then  a  second 
portion  is  added  and  the  stock  milled  for  one  hour  ;  then 
the  third  portion  is  added  and  the  drum  run  for  another 
hour,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  skins  will  be  found  to 
be  tanned  through.  This  can  be  ascertained  by  the  tanner 
by  cutting  into  the  thickest  part  of  the  heaviest  skin,  and 
if  the  green  liquor  has  penetrated  ever}^  fibre,  the  stock  is 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


19 


tanned.  The  skins  should  be  allowed  to  lie  in  the  liquor 
over  night,  in  order  to  give  the  chrome  salts  taken  up  by 
the  skins  sufficient  time  to  act,  or  to  take  effect  upon  the 
fibres  and  thus  to  completely  convert  them  into  leather. 
The  following  morning  the  tanned  skins  are  removed  from 
the  drum,  and  are,  preferably,  allow^ed  to  drain  for  some 
hours,  although  this  is  not  really  necessary.  Before  the 
processes  of  coloring  and  finishing  the  leather  are  begun, 
the  skins  require  to  be  thoroughly  washed  in  a  drum  or 
paddle  vat  in  water,  in  which  borax  has  been  dissolved  and 
added,  in  the  proportions  of  one-half  pound  borax  for  each 
one  hundred  pounds  of  leather.  In  this  borax  water  the 
leather  requires  to  be  washed  for  at  least  fifteen  minutes, 
after  which  it  is  necessary  to  again  wash  it  for  another 
fifteen  minutes  in  clean,  cold  water.  The  washing  of  the 
leather  is  a  very  important  part  of  the  process,  and  under 
no  circumstances  can  it  be  slighted  or  dispensed  with  and 
good  results  obtained  from  the  treatment. 

TANNING  PICKLED  SKINS  WITHOUT  DRENCHING. 

Pickled  sheepskins  may  be  also  tanned  without  having 
the  acid  removed  from  them  in  the  following  manner :  The 
pickled  skins  are  weighed  and  for  each  one  hundred  pounds 
two  solutions  are  prepared,  one  consisting  of  three  pounds 
of  sulphate  of  alumina  in  five  gallons  of  water,  and  the 
other  of  three  pounds  of  sal  soda  also  in  five  gallons  of  water. 
Both  materials  are  boiled  with  steam  until  dissolved.  The 
solution  of  sal  soda  is  then  slowly  stirred  into  the  solution 
of  sulphate  of  alumina,  a  small  portion  at  a  time,  and  short 
intervals  allowed  for  the  foaming  to  subside.  The  two  so- 
lutions combined  form  a  milk-white  liquor.  This  should 
be  allowed  to  become  cool  before  it  is  used,  or  enough  cold 
w^ater  may  be  added  to  reduce  the  temperature  to  eighty- 
five  degrees. 

The  drained,  pickled  skins  after  pressing  are  thrown  into 
the  drum,  with  a  solution  of  salt,  consisting  of  ten  pounds 


20 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


of  common  salt  in  five  gallons  of  water  for  each  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  skins.  The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  solu- 
tion for  ten  minutes,  until  they  are  softened  and  opened  out, 
then  the  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  sal  soda  is 
given  to  the  skins.  This  should  be  given  a  portion  at  a 
time,  and  after  all  has  been  put  in  the  skins  should  be 
drummed  therein  for  at  least  thirty  minutes.  Then  for 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  one  gallon  of  tanning 
liquor  is  added  and  the  skins  drummed  for  thirty  minutes, 
then  another  gallon  is  added  and  the  skins  drummed  for 
one  hour,  then  another  gallon  for  each  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins  is  added  and  the  skins  allowed  to  drum  for  another 
hour  or  longer,  until  they  are  well  struck  through  with  the 
tanning  liquor.  Then  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins  in  the  drum,  one-half  pound  of  salts  of  tartar  is  dis- 
solved in  as  little  water  as  possible  and  this  is  added  to  the 
contents  of  the  drum,  and  the  drum  run  for  one-half  hour. 
If  at  the  end  of  this  length  of  time  the  liquor  in  the  drum 
still  shows  a  deep  green  color,  another  one-half  pound  of 
salts  of  tartar  may  be  dissolved  and  given  to  the  skins  and 
the  drum  allowed  to  run  another  half  hour.  The  tanning 
will  at  the  end  of  this  time  be  complete,  but  it  is  good  prac- 
tice to  allow  the  skins  to  lie  in  the  tanning  liquor  over  night, 
and  then  to  be  removed  from  the  drum  and  allowed  to  press 
and  drain  for  some  hours,  the  longer  the  better.  After  the 
draining  the  tanned  skins  require  to  be  washed  in  a  solution 
of  borax,  consisting  of  one  pound  of  borax  for  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  stock,  and  washed  in  this  for  thirty 
minutes  and  then  in  clean  water  for  at  least  one  hour,  or 
until  the  stock  is  perfectly  neutral  to  the  taste,  after  which 
the  skins  are  struck  out  or  pressed,  shaved,  colored  and 
dried  out. 


Another  method  of  tanning  pickled  sheepskins, 
Without  removing  the  pickle  from  them,  is  carried  out  as 
fbllows  :  For  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  a  solution 


CHROMP>TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


21 


is  prepared  consisting  of  one  pound  of  glauber  salt,  dis- 
solved in  eight  gallons  of  warm  water.  This  solution  is 
placed  in  the  drum  along  with  the  skins,  and  the  drum  run 
for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  The  skins  are  then  thrown  back 
upon  each  side  of  the  drum  on  the  pins  of  the  drum,  the 
plug  pulled  out  and  the  solution  of  glauber  salt  allowed  to 
drain  off.  The  plug  is  then  replaced  in  the  drum,  and  for 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  ten  pounds  of  salt  and 
eight  gallons  of  water  are  thrown  into  the  drum  and  the 
skins  milled  therein  for  five  minutes.  Next  is  added  to  the 
contents  of  the  drum,  salt  water  and  skins,  one  gallon  of 
tanning  liquor  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and 
the  drum  run  for  one-half  hour,  then  another  gallon  of 
tanning  material  is  added  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins  and  the  stock  drummed  another  hour,  then  another 
gallon  of  tanning  material  is  poured  into  the  drum  and  the 
skins  milled  for  from  one  to  two  hours  or  until  the}^  are 
completely  struck  through,  making  three  gallons  of  tan- 
ning liquor  used  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  leather. 
In  as  little  water  as  possible  is  now  dissolved  one-half 
pound  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  for  each  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins,  and  this  is  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum  and 
milled  for  one-half  hour.  If  at  the  end  of  this  time  the 
liquor  in  the  drum  still  shows  a  deep  green  color,  another 
one-half  pound  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  may  be  dissolved  and 
added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum  and  the  skins  milled  for 
another  half  hour.  The  tanning  should  now  be  completed, 
but  if  any  doubt  exists  in  the  mind  of  the  tanner,  the  skins 
may  be  drummed  for  a  longer  time,  or  they  may  be  allowed 
to  rest  in  the  liquor  over  night,  enough  w^ater  being  added 
to  the  contents  of  the  drum  so  that  the  skins  are  covered. 
When  thoroughly  tanned,  the  skins  may  be  removed  from 
the  drum  and  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  at  least 
twenty-four  hours.  After  pressing  and  draining  the  re- 
quired length  of  time,  the  skins  are  thrown  into  a  drum 
with  a  solution  of  borax  or  bicarbonate  of  soda,  about  two 


22 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


pounds  of  either  of  these  articles  being  used  for  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  milled  in  this  solution  for 
one-half  hour.  On  removing  the  skins  from  the  borax  or 
soda  solution  they  are  washed  off  for  a  few  minutes  in  clean 
water.  It  is  not  necessary  to  wash  them  for  any  length  of 
time,  as  is  the  case  when  sulphate  of  alumina  has  been  used 
in  tanning.  The  leather  is  then  ready  to  be  stained  or 
colored,  fat-liquored,  put  out  on  the  grain  and  treated  in 
the  finishing  operations  the  same  as  any  chrome-tanned 
skins. 

A  NEW  ONE-BATH  PROCESS  OF  ACID  TANNING. 

A  process  of  one-bath  tanning  that  partakes  somewhat  of 
the  nature  of  the  two-bath  process  has  been  recently 
brought  out,  and  while  it  is  especially  adapted  for  calf  and 
kid  leather,  it  also  gives  very  good  results  when  it  is  applied 
to  sheepskins.  This  process  is  carried  out  as  follows :  For 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  ready  for  tanning,  four 
pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  are  dissolved.  To  this  so- 
lution are  added  three  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  of  a  strength 
of  twenty  degrees  Be.  The  skins  are  treated  to  this  solution 
in  a  drum  or  a  vat,  preferably  the  latter,  and  should  be 
paddled  until  the  thickest  part  of  the  heaviest  skin  shows 
that  the  yellow  liquor  has  penetrated  through  it.  The  skins 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  liquor  until  thoroughly 
seasoned  with  the  chrome  liquor.  Two  solutions,  known  as 
S.  Z.  solution  and  S.  K.  solution,  are  used  in  the  proportion 
of  twenty  per  cent,  of  the  former  and  thirty-five  per  cent,  of 
the  latter,  are  then  mixed  together' and  added  to  the  bath 
of  yellow  chrome  liquor.  Then  five  per  cent,  of  the  weight 
of  the  skins  of  sulphuric  acid  is  mixed  in  about  thirty  times 
its  weight  of  water  and  added  to  the  bath.  To  guard  against 
the  acid  coming  on  the  skins  directly,  it  should  be  added  to 
the  bath  through  a  lead-lined  wooden  funnel  long  enough 
to  reach  the  bottom  of  the  vat  at  one  corner  of  the  same. 
While  these  liquors  are  being  added  the  skins  should  be 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


23 


kept  in  constant  motion.  The  skins  are  paddled  for  about 
one  and  one-half  days  and  are  then  done.  They  may  be 
left  for  a  longer  time  in  the  liquor  without  injury.  A 
peculiarity  of  this  process  is  the  fineness  and  smoothness  of 
the  grain,  there  being  no  contraction  of  the  fibres,  as  often 
occurs  with  one-bath  liquor. 

To  prepare  S.  Z.  solution,  eighty  pounds  of  nitrite  of  soda 
are  dissolved  in  eighty-four  pounds  of  hot  water.  The  S.  K. 
solution  consists  of  forty-eight  pounds  of  fresh  chloride  of 
lime,  forty-eight  pounds  of  soda  ash  and  three  hundred  and 
eighty-four  pounds  of  hot  water.  The  soda  ash  is  first  dis- 
solved in  the  hot  water  and  when  it  is  all  dissolved,  the 
chloride  of  lime  is  added  through  a  sieve,  the  liquor  being 
constantly  stirred.  When  all  the  lime  has  been  stirred  in, 
the  liquor  is  left  at  rest  for  from  one  to  two  days  until  it 
becomes  clear,  then  the  clear  liquor  is  used  for  tanning  and 
the  sediment  is  thrown  away.  Both  liquors,  S.  Z.  and  S.  K., 
may  be  kept  in  one  vessel,  carboy,  vat  or  hogshead,  pro- 
vided the  proportions  are  kept  up,  and  when  wanted  for 
use,  the  required  quantity  of  the  liquor  is  taken  out.  A 
wooden  tank,  tub  or  hogshead  should  be  used  for  making 
the  solutions.    This  process  is  a  patented  one. 

WHEN  SHEEPSKINS  ARE  TANNED  IN  PADDLE-VATS. 

Sheepskins  are  also  very  satisfactorily  tanned  with  one- 
bath  chrome  liquors  in  paddle-vats.  When  the  skins  are 
tanned  in  this  way  they  may  be  pickled  in  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  before  they  are  tanned,  or 
they  may  be  tanned  directly  after  being  drenched  from  the 
pickle.  When  the  sulphate  of  alumina  is  used,  it  may  be 
drummed  into  the  skins  in  a  pin-mill  drum.  To  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins  three  pounds  of  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  eight  pounds  of  salt  may  be  used.  They  are 
dissolved  in  warm  water,  placed  in  the  drum  with  the 
skins  and  the  whole  milled  for  at  least  one-half  hour. 
Then  the  skins  are  taken  from  the  drum  and  entered  into 


24 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  tanning  liquor  in  the  vat.  Or  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  salt  may  be  made  up  in  a  vat  and  the  skins 
left  therein  and  occesionally  stirred  about  for  a  few  hours, 
after  which  they  are  drained  and  are  then  ready  for  tan- 
ning. Whether  he  uses  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  before 
the  chrome  liquor  or  not  is  optional  with  the  tanner.  Very 
good  leather  can  be  made  without  them. 

When  skins  are  tanned  in  paddle-vats  the  liquors  are 
handled  in  much  the  same  manner  as  a  gambler  or  sumac 
liquor  is  handled.  The  skins  are  started  in  a  weak  liquor, 
and  after  they  begin  to  tan  the  liquor  is  from  time  to  time 
strengthened  until  it  is  fairly  strong. 

Soft  water  should  always  be  used,  as  hard  water  contain- 
ing lime  and  magnesia  often  causes  a  precipitation  of  the 
tanning  material,  rendering  the  liquor  unfit  for  use.  To 
every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  three  gallons  of  tanning 
material  may  be  used.  One  gallon  is  added  to  the  water  at 
the  start,  and  the  balance  after  the  skins  begin  to  tan.  Or 
to  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  two  gallons  of  concen- 
trated tanning  material  may  be  added,  thus  making  a  two 
per  cent,  liquor  at  the  start.  This  is  increased  in  strength 
by  the  addition  of  more  tanning  material  until  it  becomes 
a  four  or  six  per  cent,  solution,  i.  e.,  four  or  six  gallons  of 
tanning  material  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  water.  Some 
salt  may  also  be  used.  It  keeps  the  skins  open  and  plump 
and  receptive  to  the  tanning  material,  thus  hastening  the 
process.  Enough  water  should  always  be  used  to  enable 
the  skins  to  float  about  and  turn  in  the  liquor  b}^  the  action 
of  the  paddles. 

When  the  skins  have  been  properly  prepared  for  tanning 
they  begin  at  once  to  absorb  the  tanning  material  in  the 
liquor,  and  as  they  do  this  they  gradually  assume  a  green 
or  blue  color,  and  the  tan  bath,  of  course,  slowly  loses  its 
strength  and  becomes  lighter  in  color.  After  the  skins 
have  begun  to  absorb  the  tanning  material  the  bath  should 
be  strengthened,  in  order  that  from  the  moment  the  tanning 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


25 


commences  no  halt  nor  backward  movement  should  be 
allowed  to  take  place,  but  the  skins  tanned  steadily  until 
the  process  is  completed.  The  skins  gradually  assume  a 
greenish  blue  color,  and  when  the  color  has  penetrated 
every  fibre  of  the  thickest  skin  the  tanning  is  done.  This 
usually  takes  from  one  to  two  days,  according  to  the 
strength  of  the  liquor  and  the  thickness  of  the  skin. 
Enough  tanning  material  should  always  be  used  to  enable 
the  skins  to  grow  into  plump  and  well-tanned  leather. 
No  harm  can  come  to  the  skins  by  remaining  in  the  tan- 
ning liquor  longer  than  is  necessary.  It  is  important  that 
every  skin  be  thoroughly  tanned  before  being  taken  from 
the  liquor.  If  a  thin  sheet  of  rawhide  substance  is  left  in 
the  center  of  the  skins,  the  leather  will  be  hard  and  tinny 
when  it  is  dried  out.  Too  strong  solutions  of  the  tanning 
material  tend  to  weaken  the  leather  and  to  make  it  tender. 
When  one  lot  of  skins  has  been  taken  from  the  liquor, 
some  tanning  strength  still  remains,  and  this  can  be 
utilized  by  another  lot  of  skins  being  put  into  the  liquor. 
The  remaining  tanning  material  is  then  readily  exhausted, 
leaving  nothing  but  water  behind.  The  tanner  can  tell 
when  the  skins  are  tanned  by  cutting  into  the  thickest 
skin,  and  if  the  skin  has  assumed  a  greenish  blue  color 
clear  through,  and  if  when  scraped  with  a  knife,  a  dry 
fibre  show^s  the  skins  are  tanned.  After  the  skins  are 
tanned  they  should  be  washed  for  twenty  minutes  in  borax 
water  and  for  twenty  minutes  in  clear  water. 

TANNING  SHEErSKINS  IN  TWO-BATH  PROCESSES. 

When  pickled  sheepskins  are  to  be  tanned  by  any  two- 
bath  acid  process,  the  best  results  will  follow  if  the  skins 
are  drenched  before  they  are  tanned,  and  put  into  perfectly 
neutral  condition.  The  removal  of  the  acids  in  the  skins 
is  best  accomplished  by  the  use  of  whiting  and  salt,  followed 
by  a  drench  in  a  light  sour-bran  drench.  The  most  com- 
monly used  process  of  two-bath  tanning  is  carried  out  in 


26 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  following  manner :  After  the  pickle  has  been  removed 
from  the  skins  and  they  are  in  perfectly  neutral  condition^ 
they  are  placed  in  a  pin-mill  drum,  and  for  each  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  skins  a  bath  is  prepared  consisting  of  five 
pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  two  and  one-half 
pounds  of  muriatic  acid  in  sufficient  water  to  enable  the 
skins  to  work  nicely.  This  solution,  to  which  some  salt 
may  be  added,  is  given  gradually  to  the  skins  in  the  drum 
until  all  is  in,  and  the  skins  are  then  milled  until  the 
yellow  liquor  has  penetrated  through  the  thickest  part  of 
the  heaviest  skin.  This  is  usually  accomplished  in  less- 
than  one  hour,  depending  upon  the  thickness  of  the  skins. 
When  too  much  acid  is  used  and  the  proper  proportions  are 
not  kept  up,  the  skins  swell  very  rapidly  until  the.y  look 
like  pieces  of  India  rubber.  The  salt  in  the  liquor  prevents 
undue  swelling.  The  quantities  of  bichromate  of  potash 
and  acid  may  be  somewhat  varied.  Sometimes  four  per 
cent,  of  the  former  and  two  per  cent,  of  the  latter  are  suf- 
ficient. 

When  chromic  acid  is  used,  from  four  to  five  pounds  of  it 
are  required  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  without 
any  muriatic  acid.  The  essential  point  in  the  first  bath  i& 
that  the  skins  are  thoroughly  penetrated  with  the  yellow 
chrome  liquor  before  they  are  taken  from  the  drum.  Care- 
lessness in  this  respect  results  in  poor  leather.  After  the- 
skins  are  removed  from  the  drum  they  should  be  laid  in 
piles  or  thrown  over  horses  until  the  next  day.  They 
should  not  be  exposed  to  the  air  nor  allowed  to  dry  out 
upon  the  edges.  The  chromic  acid  taken  up  by  the  skins 
will  continue  doing  its  work  while  the  skins  are  draining^ 
and  much  better  leather  results  than  when  the  skins  are 
entered  at  once  into  the  second  bath.  The  surplus  liquor 
should  be  removed  from  the  skins  by  striking  them  out  or 
by  pressing  them.  The  former  method  is  the  best  to  use 
upon  sheepskins,  as  it  serves  to  remove  the  wrinkles,  which 
if  left  in  the  skins  would  become  fixed  in  the  second  bath 
and  not  readily  removed  later. 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


27 


For  the  second  bath  a  paddle  vat  is  undoubtedly  the 
best.  This  bath  consists  of  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of 
soda  and  muriatic  acid  and  water.  Before  the  skins  are 
put  into  this  liquor  they  should  be  dipped  singly  into  a 
weak  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  acid,  as  by  this 
means  a  slight  surface  reduction  is  accomplished.  Enough 
water  to  enable  the  skins  to  float  and  turn  in  the  liquor  is 
run  into  the  vat,  and  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  are 
dissolved  and  poured  into  the  vat.  To  this  are  added  three 
pounds  of  muriatic  acid.  The  addition  of  the  acid  causes 
sulphurous  acid  to  be  evolved,  which  is  the  active  agent  in 
this  second  bath.  By  means  of  the  paddles  on  the  vat,  the 
liquor  is  stirred  and  the  skins  kept  in  motion.  It  usually 
requires  from  ten  to  eighteen  hours  to  complete  the  process^ 
thick  skins,  of  course,  requiring  more  time  than  thin  ones. 
The  color  of  the  skins  changes  from  yellow  to  greenish-blue. 
Chemically  considered  a  reduction  takes  place  ;  the  chromic 
acid  of  the  first  bath  is  reduced  by  the  sulphurous  acid  of 
the  second  bath  to  the  oxide  of  chromium.  By  this  method 
the  chromic  oxide  becomes  fixed  on  and  in  the  fibres  of  the 
skins  and  the  result  is  leather.  The  skins  should  be  left  in 
the  second  bath  until  the  yellow  liquor  has  entirely  disap- 
peared and  the  skins  have  assumed  a  uniform  greenish- 
blue  color.  This  change  of  color  should  be  through  the 
thickest  skins  before  they  are  taken  from  the  liquor.  This 
completes  the  tanning. 

A  process  of  two-bath  tanning, 

The  second  part  of  which  is  materially  diff'erent  from  the 
one  just  described,  is  carried  out  as  follows  :  The  first  bath 
consists  of  four  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  skins  of  bi- 
chromate of  potash,  that  is,  four  pounds  of  the  potash  are 
used  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  to  this  are 
added  three  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  of  a  strength  of  20°  Be. 
The  skins  are  given  this  liquor,  diluted  of  course  with 


28 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


water,  in  a  drum,  or  a  paddle  vat,  and  sufficient  time 
given  for  the  chrome  liquor  to  penetrate  every  fibre.  The 
second  bath  consists  of :  In  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  of 
a  temperature  of  about  ninety  degrees,  five  pounds  and  five 
ounces  of  sulphuric  acid  are  added.  Into  this  are  stirred 
four  pounds  of  peroxide  of  sodium.  This  requires  to  be 
sifted  in  in  small  quantities  at  a  time  and  the  liquor  to  be 
constantly  stirred.  After  the  bath  is  ready  the  previously 
chromed  skins,  after  draining  or  pressing,  are  placed  in  it 
and  paddled  until  they  are  tanned,  which  can  readily  be 
ascertained  by  the  tanner.  This  process  gives  the  skins  a 
fine,  smooth  grain. 

FINISHING  CHROME-TANNED  SHEEPSKINS  INTO  GLOVE 
LEATHER. 

After  washing  from  the  tanning  liquors,  sheepskins  in- 
tended for  glove  purposes  are  struck  out  or  pressed  to 
remove  from  them  the  surplus  water,  and  are  then  shaved, 
if  they  require  it.  After  shaving  they  are  colored.  This 
is  usually  done  in  drums.  Aniline  dyes  are  very  generally 
used.  By  their  use  a  large  number  of  shades  can  be  pro- 
duced. Very  desirable  eff'ects  are  also  produced  by  com- 
bining two  or  more  dyes.  In  the  making  of  colored  chrome- 
tanned  sheep  glove  leather,  the  best  results  are  secured  only 
when  the  grain  of  the  leather  is  clear  and  free  from  grease 
and  spots.  Cleanliness  in  the  processes  previous  to  coloring 
is  absolutely  necessary.  Extracts  of  sumac  and  fustic  are 
commonly  used  as  mordants.  Sumac  is  generally  used  for 
light  colors  and  fustic  for  dark  shades.  For  some  dark 
shades  other  materials  may  be  used,  and  by  the  dyer  taking 
advantage  of  the  coloring  matter  in  the  mordant,  a  saving 
in  the  quantity  of  dyestuff"  used  can  be  made.  Only  such 
a  quantity  of  mordant  should  be  used  as  will  result  in 
fixing  of  the  dye  upon  the  leather.  When  more  than  this 
is  used  the  coloring  will  be  imperfect. 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


29 


Ox-blood  is  a  very  popular  shade, 
And  a  good  color  can  be  obtained  in  the  following 
manner :  For  each  dozen  skins  use  about  four  ounces  of 
extract  of  fustic.  Dissolve  this  in  sufficient  water  to  cover 
the  skins,  at  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and  ten  degrees, 
and  drum  the  skins  in  the  liquor  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  add  to  the  same  bath  two  ounces  of  antimonine  or 
of  tartar  emetic  for  each  dozen  skins  and  drum  the  skins 
for  another  fifteen  minutes.  The  skins  are  next  washed 
off  in  warm  water  and  the  color  bath  prepared  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees  Fall.  From  two 
to  three  ounces  of  amaranth  aniline  are  required  for  each 
dozen  skins,  according  to  their  size.  The  aniline  is  dissolved 
in  boiling  water  and  the  skins  are  drummed  in  the  color 
solution  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  the  leather  is  washed 
off  and  fat-liquored.  The  shade  can  be  darkened  by  using  a 
color  solution  composed  of  two  ounces  of  amaranth  aniline 
and  one  ounce  chocolate-brown  for  each  dozen  skins.  When 
the  tartar  emetic  or  the  antimonine  is  used,  nothing  more 
is  needed  to  set  the  colors,  but  when  they  are  not  used,  one 
ounce  of  bichromate  of  potash  should  be  dissolved  and 
added  to  the  color  solutions  after  the  skins  have  been 
drumming  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  the  drumming 
continued  for  ten  minutes  longer.  This  will  fasten  the  dye 
firmly  upon  the  leather. 

A  good  shade  of  ox-blood 
Can  also  be  obtained  in  the  following  manner :  As  a 
mordant  either  sumac  or  fustic  may  be  used,  or  a  liquor 
made  up  of  fustic  and  peachwood  extracts.  In  this  the 
skins  are  drummed  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  dissolve 
the  amaranth  aniline^  and  to  the  solution  add  one-eighth 
of  an  ounce  of  malachite  green  aniline.  After  the  skins 
have  been  drummed  in  the  color  solution  for  twenty 
minutes,  dissolve  and  add  one  ounce  of  bichromate  of  pot- 
ash for  each  dozen  skins,  and  run  the  drum  for  a  few 


30 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


minutes  longer.  A  good  method  of  preparing  the  skins  for 
the  aniline  dye  bath  is  to  wash  them  thoroughly  after  tan- 
ning, and  then  let  them  lie  for  a  few  hours  in  a  warm 
sumac  liquor.  This  serves  to  mordant  the  leather  as  well 
as  to  soften  it.    After  the  sumac  bath  the  skins  are  colored. 

The  various  shades  of  brown  and  tan 

Are  very  popular.  A  chocolate  brown  upon  chrome  tanned 
sheepskins  for  glove  purposes  can  readily  be  obtained  by 
the  use  of  chocolate  brown  anilines,  or  a  combination  of 
•colors  may  be  used  as  follows :  Three  ounces  of  phos- 
phine  for  leather,  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  of  green,  and 
one-half  of  an  ounce  of  purple  aniline  for  each  dozen  skins. 
Por  a  more  yellow  shade,  such  as  is  often  wanted,  phos- 
phines  and  orange  anilines  may  be  combined,  using  about 
one-half  as  much  of  the  latter  as  of  the  former.  Bismarck 
brown  and  a  violet  aniline  produce  another  shade  of  yellow 
brown,  as  do  also  yellow  anilines  saddened  with  blue  or 
purple. 

Yellow  glove  leather 

Is  made  by  first  mordanting  the  leather  with  extract  of 
sumac  or  fustic  and  then  applying  a  yellow  aniline,  which, 
if  used  alone,  is  too  bright  or  fiery,  may  be  subdued  by 
the  addition  of  blue  or  purple  aniline  until  the  right  shade 
is  obtained. 

For  a  mahogany  shade, 

"Use  as  a  mordant  a  liquor  made  of  either  fustic  or  of  fustic 
-and  logwood.  Drum  the  skins  in  this  liquor  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  add  the  aniline  solution  (mahogany  brown) 
and  drum  skins  twenty  minutes  longer,  after  which  add  a 
solution  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  continue  the  drum- 
ming for  ten  minutes  longer.  Olive  brown  K  is  a  very 
pretty  shade.  Seal  browns  are  also  in  favor,  also  the  var- 
ious shades  of  tan,  readily  obtainable  by  the  use  of  anilines. 
After  the  coloring  process  is  completed  the  skins  may  be 


chrome-tannp:d  sheep  leather. 


31 


pressed  and  fat-liquored  by  the  use  of  one  pint  of  egg  yolk 
^jnd  one-half  pint  of  olive  oil  for  each  dozen  skins. 

A  good  fat-liquor 
Is  also  made  by  boiling  twenty  pounds  of  alkaline  soft 
soap  in  fifteen  gallons  of  water.  To  the  soap  solution  are 
added  forty  pounds  of  sod  oil  and  the  two  ingredients 
completely  saponified  by  boiling  and  stirring.  Enough 
water  is  then  added  to  bring  the  volume  up  to  fifty  gallons. 
Of  this  fat-liquor  about  one  pailful  is  used  upon  each  dozen 
skins. 

Another  very  good  fat-liquor. 
Is  made  as  follows  :  Ten  pounds  of  soap,  four  gallons  of 
neatsfoot  oil  and  five  or  six  pounds  of  degras  saponified 
in  fifty  gallons  of  water.  Two  gallons  of  this  fat-liquor 
is  the  quantity  usually  required  by  each  dozen  skins. 
The  soap  is  first  boiled  in  water  until  it  is  dissolved,  then 
the  oil  is  added,  and  finally  the  degras.  Then  enough 
water  is  run  into  the  tub  or  barrel  to  make  fifty  gallons 
of  fat-liquor.  In  place  of  the  degras,  egg  yolk  may  be 
used.  This  is  added  after  the  solution  has  been  cooled  by 
the  addition  of  cold  water.  The  fullness  of  the  leather 
may  be  increased  by  adding  a  solution  of  flour  and  water 
to  the  fat-liquor  and  drumming  the  skins  in  the  mixture. 
The  water  should  be  struck  or  pressed  out  of  the  leather 
before  it  is  fat-liquored.  It  is  good  practice  to  drum  the 
leather  in  a  w^arm  drum  for  a  few  minutes  so  as  to  warm  it 
up  before  the  fat-liquor  is  added.  The  softness  and 
strength  of  the  leather  are  increased  by  applying  to  the 
grain  before  the  skins  are  dried  out,  some  neatsfoot  or 
sod  oil.  This  is  put  on  after  the  water  has  been  struck 
out,  and  by  penetrating  into  the  leather  adds  strength  and 
softness  to  the  fibres. 

A  very  practical  method  of  preparing  chrome-tanned 
sheepskins  with  sumac, 
Previous  to  the  application  of  aniline  dyes,  is  carried 


32 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


out  in  the  following  manner :  For  each  one  hundred 
pounds  of  leather,  weighed  after  being  well  w^ashed  and 
drained,  three  and  one-half  pounds  of  sumac  extract  are 
scalded  in  a  closed  vessel  with  three  gallons  of  hot  water. 
Sufficient  time  should  be  allowed  to  get  the  tannin  extracted 
from  the  sumac.  This  usually  takes  two  hours.  The  pre- 
pared sumac  liquor  is  then  commingled  with  ten  gallons  of 
water  at  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  degrees  Fah.  In- 
stead of  the  extract  of  sumac  a  fresh  infusion  of  sumac 
leaves  may  be  employed  ;  and  when  dark  shades  are  to  be 
dyed  the  sumac  may  be  replaced  up  to  one-half,  by  cube 
gambler  or  terra  japonica.  The  skins  are  thrown  into  the 
drum  with  one-third  of  the  sumac  liquor,  and  are  drummed 
therein  for  five  minutes.  Then  another  one-third  is  added 
and  the  leather  drummed  for  another  five  minutes,  and 
then  the  last  portion  is  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum 
and  the  drumming  continued  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
longer.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the  leather  will  have  ab- 
sorbed all  the  tannin  and  the  spent  liquor  may  be  run  ofi'. 
Before  doitig  this,  however,  it  is  well  to  add  to  the  liquor 
and  skins  ten  ounces  of  tartar  emetic  or  the  same  quantity 
of  antimonine,  dissolved  in  two  or  three  gallons  of  water, 
for  each  hundred  pounds  of  leather,  and  to  continue  the 
drumming  for  fifteen  minutes,  after  which  the  liquor  may 
be  run  off'  and  the  skins  dyed  at  once  with  the  aniline  dye, 
or  they  may  be  rinsed  off"  in  luke-warm  water  and  then 
colored.  This  method  of  coloring  carefully  carried  out  re- 
sults in  full,  clear,  even  and  fast  shades.  The  use  of  the 
tartar  emetic  or  antimonine  is  not  alwaj^s  necessary.  The 
objects  of  using  either  of  these  articles  are  to  overcome  any 
uncombined  tannin  on  the  leather,  to  clear  the  grain  and  to 
fix  or  fasten  the  aniline  dye  evenly  and  permanently  upon 
the  leather. 

Aniline  dyes  on  this  leather. 
Upon  leather  treated  in   this   manner  the   aniline  dyes 
have  a  special  value  because  of  the  many  varied,  brilliant 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


33 


and  beautiful  shades  that  can  be  obtained  with  them.  It 
is  economy  for  the  leather  dyer  to  use  only  the  best  dyes,  as 
good  leather  can  be  seriously  reduced  in  value  by  the  use 
of  dyes  of  poor  quality.  The  leather  made  by  chrome  pro- 
cess possesses  none  of  the  coloring  properties  of  vegetable- 
tanned  stock,  and  a  great  many  difficulties  are  usually 
encountered  by  the  dyer  who  undertakes  to  color  chrome 
tanned  leather  without  guidance  or  instruction.  When 
aniline  dyes  are  being  dissolved,  care  should  be  taken  to 
dissolve  the  dye  thoroughly  and  in  such  manner  that  no 
sediment  remains  in  the  vessel.  It  is  well  to  have  the 
water  heated  to  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
degrees,  then  to  add  the  color  and  allow  it  to  go  into  solu- 
tion, after  which,  unless  a  complete  solution  results,  the 
liquor  may  be  boiled  for  a  few  minutes.  To  get  the  best 
results  the  solution  should  be  strained  before  it  is  used,  and 
cleanliness  observed  in  all  the  operations,  both  as  regards 
the  preparation  of  the  leather  and  the  preparing  of  the  color- 
ing materials.  It  is  best  to  use  only  the  dyes  that  are 
soluble  in  water,  as  they  are  generally  more  readily 
absorbed  by  the  leather  and  produce  more  uniform  shades 
than  dyes  that  are  soluble  only  in  alcohol. 

When  the  dyeing  is  done  in  drums,  which  is  the  pre- 
ferred method,  it  is  good  practice  to  start  with  about  one- 
third  of  the  color  solution  and  to  add  the  remainder  at 
intervals  of  five  minutes  through  the  hollow  gudgeon  of  the 
drum.  The  drumming  is  then  continued  for  thirty  min- 
utes, or  until  the  bath  is  as  far  as  possible  exhausted.  It  is 
best  to  keep  the  temperature  of  the  liquors  above  one  hun- 
dred degrees  Fah.  After  dyeing,  the  skins  are  rinsed  in  cold 
water  and  struck  out,  and  dried  out  and  finished  as  soon  as 
possible  so  as  to  avoid  faded  spots  and  streaks.  The  skins 
may  be  stretched  in  frames  or  on  boards  and  dried  in  a 
moderately  warm  room. 

The  aniline  dyes  referred  to  in  the  following  instructions 
are  the  Cassella  &  Co.  brand,  made  in  Frankfort-on-the- 
3 


34 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Main,  Germany.  The  quantities  of  dyestuffs  mentioned  are 
for  one  dozen  medium  size  skins.  For  small  skins  less  dye 
is  required  and  for  large  ones  more  is  needed.  When  a 
large  number  of  skins  are  to  be  colored  it  is  a  good  plan  for 
the  dyer  to  try  the  proportions  on  two  or  three  skins  in  a 
tub,  and  then  to  increase  or  diminish  the  quantity  by  the 
proper  ratio,  and  to  color  the  lot  of  leather  in  pin-mill 
drums. 

Ox-blood  shade. 
To  get  a  desirable  shade  of  ox-blood  use  one  ounce  of 
Bismarck  brown  P.  S.  and  three  ounces  of  Russian  red  B. 
Carry  out  the  operations  in  the  manner  described  and  a 
full,  clean  ox-blood  shade  will  result.  When  either  tartar 
emetic  or  antimonine  is  used  nothing  else  is  needed  to  fix 
the  colors  upon  the  leather. 

Very  desirable  tan  shades 

May  be  obtained  by  using  two  and  one-half  ounces  of 
phosphine  11a  and  one  ounce  of  Bismarck  brown  in  combi- 
nation, also  a  combination  of  one  and  one-half  ounces  of 
new  phosphine  G  and  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  Bismarck 
brown.  A  dark  tan  results  from  the  use  of  three  ounces  of 
new  phosphine  G  and  one  ounce  leather  brown  A  and  two 
ounces  of  Bismarck  brown  P.  S.  For  a  very  li^ht  tan  use 
one-half  ounce  Bismarck  brown,  mixed  in  solution  with 
four  and  one-half  ounces  new  phosphine  G,  saddened  or 
subdued  with  a  very  little  neutral  blue.  A  very  pretty 
brown:  Three-fourths  of  an  ounce  leather  brown  B.  and 
three  ounces  of  new  phosphine  G.  In  some  cases  the  quan- 
tities of  dyestuff  mentioned  may  prove  more  than  enough 
to  produce  the  desired  shade.  This  must  be  determined  by 
an  experiment  on  two  or  three  skins  colored  in  a  tub.  The 
proportions  may  vary  slightly  and  still  produce  satisfactory 
colors.  These  dyes  may  also  be  too  expensive  for  the 
average  case.  They  are  recommended,  however,  when  extra 
fine  leather  is  being  made  and  when  superior  colorings  are 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


35 


wanted  and  appreciated.  The  cost  in  such  instances  is 
more  than  repaid  by  the  even  and  rich  colors  that  result 
from  their  use. 

SULFAMINE-DYED  SHEEPSKINS. 

Chrome-tanned  sheepskins  intended  for  coloring  with  sul- 
famine  dyes  must  be  as  free  from  grease  as  possible.  The 
coloring  is  best  done  in  drums,  and  the  temperature  of  the 
dyeing  solution  should  be  130  degrees  Fah.  In  order  to  get 
thorough  penetration  with  these  dyes  a  small  quantity  of 
carbonate  of  ammonia  should  be  added  to  the  dye  liquor, 
but  this  may  afterwards  be  neutralized  with  a  little  acetic 
acid. 

Yellow  chrome-tanned  glove  leather  may  be  produced 
by  coloring  the  skins  with  three  ounces  of  sulfamine  yellow 
D,  for  each  dozen  skins,  measuring  from  eighty  to  ninety 
feet.  A  light  greenish-yellow  is  obtained  by  the  use  of 
three  and  one-half  ounces  sulfamine  yellow  A. 

A  rich,  dark  ox-blood  is  produced  by  the  combination  of 
the  following  dyes :  one  and  a  half  ounces  sulfon  brown  B, 
five  ounces  sulfon  carmine  B,  one  and  one-half  ounces 
haematine  powder.  No  alkali  or  acid  is  required  for  this 
combination. 

After  the  dyeing  is  completed  the  skins  are  fat-liquored 
for  about  one-half  hour  at  a  temperature  of  100  degrees  Fah. 
A  good  neutral  fat-liquor  is  made  of  egg  yolk  and  neatsfoot 
or  olive  oil — one  pint  of  egg  yolk  and  one-half  pint  of  oil 
being  used  upon  each  dozen  skins. 

GLAZING  CHROME-TANNED  SHEEPSKINS  COLORED. 

Fine  grained  sheepskins,  when  skillfully  tanned  and 
properly  colored,  may  be  finished  in  imitation  of  genuine 
k:id  leather.  It  is  necessary  for  the  finisher  to  get  rid  of  as 
much  of  the  grease  in  the  grain  of  the  leather,  as  possible 
before  he  can  get  a  bright  clear  finish.  This  in  many  in- 
stances is  exceedingly  difficult  to  do.    To  assist  in  clearing 


36 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  grain  of  grease  a  solution  of  vinegar,  water  and  bichro- 
mate of  potash  may  be  used.  To  one  gallon  of  strong  vine- 
gar a  few  ounces  of  bichromate  of  potash  dissolved  in  hot 
water  are  added,  and  the  solution  of  vinegar  and  potash 
commingled  with  ten  gallons  of  water.  This  solution  is 
applied  to  the  dried  skins  with  a  soft  sponge,  and  must  be 
rubbed  well  down  into  the  grain.  Then  the  leather  is  dried 
and  seasoned.  A  clear  bright  finish  may  be  obtained  by  the 
use  of  a  liquor  composed  of  egg  albumen  solution,  acetic 
acid,  bichromate  of  potash  and  water.  Proportions  :  Four 
gallons  of  egg  albumen  liquor,  one  ounce  bichromate  of 
potash,  two  quarts  acetic  acid,  and  twenty  gallons  of  water. 
The  ingredients  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  together.  A 
light  coat  is  applied  to  the  leather  and  thoroughly  rubbed 
in,  and  the  leather  dried  in  a  warm  room  and  then  glazed. 
A  second  coat  of  the  glazing  liquor  is  usually  required,  arid 
sometimes  a  third.  The  less  seasoning  liquor  that  is  used 
to  get  a  clear  bright  finish  the  better  will  be  the  finish,  as 
the  leather  will  stand  handling  better,  and  the  grain  will 
show  plainly  through  the  finish,  which  is  usually  considered 
desirable.  There  are  very  good  seasoning  or  glazing  liquors 
on  the  market  that  the  leather  worker  can  buy  ready  for 
use  and  thus  dispense  with  the  trouble  of  making  his  own 
liquors.  This  course  is  pursued  by  many  and  is  to  be 
recommended. 

Sheepskins  require  very  little,  and  in  many  instances, 
no  fat-liquor  at  all  to  impart  to  them  the  degree  of  softness 
required  in  shoe  leather.  Neither  do  they  need  a  great 
deal  of  staking  and  working,  but  on  the  contrary,  the  less 
they  are  worked  and  handled  after  drying  out,  the  firmer 
will  be  the  finished  leather. 

FINISHING  THE  SKINS  INTO  BLACK  SHOE  LEATHER. 

Chrome  tanned  sheepskins,  for  black  shoe  leather,  glazed 
and  dull,  are  finished  after  tanning  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  After  the  washing  is  finished  they  are  struck  out  or 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


37 


pressed  and  then  shaved  to  make  them  of  uniform  thick- 
ness and  the  flesh  smooth  and  clean.  The  solidity  and 
firmness  of  the  leather  may  be  slightly  increased  by  wash- 
ing the  skins  from  the  tanning  liquors  in  a  solution  of 
whiting  and  salt,  using  about  ten  pounds  of  salt  and  five 
pounds  of  whiting  in  fifty  gallons  of  warm  water.  The 
skins  should  be  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  thirty  minutes, 
then  washed  in  water  until  the  whiting  is  entirely  removed, 
then  struck  out  and  shaved.  During  the  shaving  the 
leather  should  he  kept  from  all  stain  and  grease,  which 
being  acquired  at  this  stage  of  the  work  interfere  in  the 
latter  processes  of  finishing.  If  the  leather  is  to  be  black 
the  flesh  is  first  colored  blue  or  purple.  This  is  accom- 
plished by  the  use  of  logwood  and  sal  soda  or  borax,  or  by 
the  use  of  blue  nigrosine.  When  logwood  liquor  is  used 
enough  sal  soda  or  borax  is  added  to  make  the  color  blue  or 
purple.  Some  purple  aniline  may  be  used,  but  is  not  neces- 
sary. When  powdered  logwood  dyes  are  used  one  pound 
of  the  same  boiled  in  ten  gallons  of  water  is  sufficient 
for  one  hundred  pounds  of  leather.  The  skins  may  be 
drummed  in  this  liquor  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  spread 
on  a  table  and  grain  blacked  by  hand  or  passed  through 
dye  boxes,  or  the  striker  may  be  applied  to  the  skins  in  the 
drum  before  they  are  removed  from  the  logwood  liquor. 
Blue  nigrosine  produces  very  satisfactory  results  when  it  is 
used  for  flesh  coloring.  For  each  dozen  of  medium  size 
skins,  from  two  to  three  ounces  of  the  nigrosine  are  boiled 
until  dissolved  in  three  gallons  of  water.  This  is  added  to 
the  skins  in  a  drum  at  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  degrees,  and  the  skins  drummed  for  fifteen  minutes 
or  until  the  color  is  well  taken  up.  Unless  the  leather  has 
been  thoroughly  washed  after  tanning,  the  blue  color  will 
not  penetrate  as  it  should. 

After  flesh  coloring  the  water  is  drained  off",  and  then  the 
grain  is  blacked  with  logwood  and  iron  liquor.  A  good 
striker  to  develop  the  color  is  made  of  five  pounds  of  cop- 


38 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


peras  and  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  boiled  in 
twenty  gallons  of  water.  After  the  boiling,  the  barrel  is  filled 
to  a  total  of  fifty  gallons.  When  coloring  on  a  table  add  a 
small  'quantity  of  ammonia  to  each  pailful  of  dye.  After 
blacking,  wash  off  the  leather  and  proceed  to  finish  it.  In 
many  instances  sheepskins  require  no  fat-liquor  to  make 
them  soft.  This  depends  upon  how  they  were  treated  in 
the  beamhouse  and  also  upon  the  tannage  used.  Before  the 
skins  are  dried  out,  they  should  be  well  struck  out,  and  a 
coat  of  glycerine  and  water  applied  to  the  grain.  This 
gives  a  smooth,  soft  feel  to  the  leather  and  helps  in  the  final 
finishing.  The  glycerine  may  be  half  water.  It  should  be 
put  on  with  a  rag  or  sponge  and  applied  evenly  over  the 
grain.  After  this  the  skins  are  laid  out  flat  in  a  pile  or 
placed  over  horses,  covered  up  and  allowed  to  draw  for  two 
or  three  hours.  The  skins  are  then  again  struck  out,  all 
the  wrinkles  removed  and  the  grain  laid  down  flat.  A  light 
coat  of  oil  is  then  applied  evenly  over  the  grain,  or  no  oil 
is  used,  according  to  the  condition  of  the  leather.  The  skins 
are  then  dried  out,  and  finished  up  by  glazing  or  ironing. 
The  best  finish  is  secured  when  the  glazing  liquor  is  used 
in  dilute  form  and  well  rubbed  down  into  the  grain.  The 
grain  of  the  leather  must  be  cleared  of  greasy  matter  before 
a  good,  bright  finish  can  be  obtained.  For  this  purpose  a 
dilute  solution  of  lactic  acid  may  be  used,  also  a  liquor 
composed  of  vinegar,  bichromate  of  potash  and  water. 

Two  or  three  applications  of  the  seasoning  liquor  are 
given  as  the  skins  require. 

A  good  glazing  liquor  for  sheepskins 

May  be  made  of  the  following  ingredients :  Five  gallons 
of  logwood  are  blacked  with  a  few  ounces  of  copperas. 
In  place  of  this  a  solution  of  nigrosine  may  be  used.  Then 
add  one  and  one-half  pints  of  blood,  fresh  or  defibrined, 
five  ounces  of  glycerine  and  eight  ounces  of  ammonia. 


CHROME-TANNED  SHEEP  LEATHER. 


39 


Trouble  with  black  chrome  tanned  sheep,  leather  and 
prevention. 

Trouble  is  often  encountered  in  the  finishing  of  chrome 
tanned  sheepskins  into  black  shoe  leather  by  the  color  fad- 
ing away  during  the  time  the  leather  is  drying  out,  leaving 
the  grain  a  decided  blue  color.  Very  frequently  the  black 
returns  during  the  process  of  glazing  and  finishing,  but  not 
always ;  and  sometimes  when  it  does  come  back  it  is  not  a 
perfect  black,  but  a  black  with  a  blue  bottom  that  can  be 
readily  seen  by  pulling  the  grain  of  the  leather  apart. 

This  defect  in  the  leather  is  sometimes  caused  by  the 
leather  having  been  insufficiently  washed  before  it  was 
colored  ;  but  this  is  not  always  the  cause,  as  it  occurs  with 
the  best  dyers  when  the  greatest  care  has  been  observed  in 
washing  the  skins,  and  when  the  best  coloring  materials  are 
used.  A  good  method  of  preventing  the  trouble,  and  this 
is  what  the  practical  workman  is  interested  in,  is  to  prepare 
the  skins  for  coloring  by  giving  them  a  bath  of  sumac  or 
palmetto  extract  after  washing  and  just  previous  to  apply- 
ing the  dye.  For  one  hundred  pounds  of  leather  washed 
and  ready  for  coloring,  a  sumac  liquor  may  be  used  com- 
posed of  four  pounds  of  sumac  extract  and  three  gallons  of 
hot  water,  mixed  with  about  thirty  gallons  of  lukewarm 
water.  In  a  solution  prepared  in  this  manner  the  skins  are 
drummed  for  thirty  minutes,  or  until  they  have  absorbed 
all  of  the  tannin  from  the  liquor.  After  this  they  should 
be  lightly  washed  in  water  before  being  colored. 

A  decoction  of  sumac  leaves  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
extract,  and  a  combination  of  sumac  and  gambler  may  be 
employed,  one-third  of  the  former  and  two-thirds  of  the 
latter,  Also  a  palmetto  extract  liquor  made  up  in  about 
the  same  manner  as  above  suggested  for  sumac.  By  this 
treatment  the  skins  are  prepared  to  receive  any  coloring 
material  that  may  be  used,  the  same  becoming  firmly  fixed 
upon  the  leather  in  such  manner  that  it  will  not  fade  nor 
disappear  into  the  leather.    Upon  skins  treated  in  this 


40 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


manner  a  very  desirable  blue  flesh  may  be  obtained  by  the 
use  of  a  purple  aniline,  such  as  methyl  violet,  after  which 
the  grain  may  be  blackened  with  a  solution  of  logwood  fol- 
lowed by  an  iron  or  other  striker  liquor,  and  for  a  final  dye 
a  fast  black  aniline  may  be  used.  This  produces  a  dark 
blue  flesh  and  jet  black  grain,  but  is  somewhat  expensive. 
The  aniline  dyes  may  be  omitted  entirely  and  the  blue 
flesh  and  black  grain  obtained  in  the  manner  that  has 
been  described. 

Chrome-tanned  sheepskins  may  also  he  mordanted 
By  being  dipped  into  a  solution  of  permanganate  of  potash, 
described  in  the  chapter  devoted  to  goatskins ;  also  by 
treatment  with  a  liquor  composed  of  bichromate  of  potash 
and  salts  of  tartar.  These  methods  serve  as  foundations  for 
the  logwood,  and  the  coloring  is  made  comparatively  easy. 

The  skins  may  be  blue-backed  and  grain  blacked  in  the 
following  manner  :  Mordant  them  with  extract  of  sumac, 
then  dye  with  violet  aniline  for  the  back  ;  then  pass  the 
skins  through  logwood  liquor  and  bluestone,  and  finally 
dye  with  fast  aniline  black  upon  the  grain,  wash  off*,  strike 
out  and  finish. 


CHAPTER  III. 


SHEEPSKINS. 
Alum,  Oil  and  Napa  Processes, 
processes  of  alum  tawing. 

The  animal  grease  should  as  far  as  possible  be  removed 
from  pickled  sheep  and  lambskins  before  they  are  alum 
tawed.  This  is  accomplished  b}^  pressure,  wringing  or  by 
treatment  with  naphtha.  After  the  degreasing  operation  is 
completed,  the  skins  require  a  drumming  up  in  salt  water 
in  order  to  soften  them  and  to  open  them  out.  Then  it  is 
necessary  to  remove  the  acid  used  as  a  pickle.  This  is 
accomplished  by  drenching  the  skins  in  a  bath  of  whiting 
and  salt  or  of  bran  and  salt.  When  whiting  and  salt  are 
used  two  pounds  of  bolted  whiting  and  five  pounds  of  com- 
mon salt  are  used  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins. 
The  whiting  and  salt  are  dissolved  in  about  ten  gallons  of 
warm  water  and  placed  in  the  drum  with  the  skins,  and 
the  skins  drummed  in  the  liquor  for  twenty  minutes  and 
then  allowed  to  lie  in  the  liquor  for  thirty  minutes.  After 
this  they  are  washed  in  two  baths  of  warm  salt  water  in 
order  to  rid  them  of  every  trace  of  the  whiting,  or  the  skins 
may  be  taken  from  the  drench  of  whiting  and  salt  and 
washed  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  light  sour  bran  drench,  then 
drained  and  they  are  ready  for  tanning.  An  ordinary 
quality  of  leather  is  obtained  by  tawing  the  skins  in  a 
solution  composed  of  three  pounds  sulphate  of  alumina,  four 
pounds  glauber  salt,  and  five  pounds  common  salt  dissolved 
in  ten  gallons  of  water.  The  glauber  salt  may  be  omitted 
and  the  quantity  of  common  salt  increased  to  eight  or  tej^ 
pounds.    The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  solution  for  one 

(41) 


42 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


hour,  and  should  then  be  allowed  to  lie  in  the  liquor  some 
hours  or  placed  in  piles  to  press  and  drain  for  about  twenty- 
four  hours,  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  The  skins  tawed 
in  this  way  require  very  little  or  no  grease  or  oil  at  all,  as 
they  work  out  very  soft  and  white. 

An  extra  fine  quality  of  alum  leather. 

When  an  extra  fine  quality  of  alum  leather  is  wanted, 
possessed  of  good,  plump  body  and  fine,  smooth  grain,  the 
skins,  after  drenching,  may  be  tawed  in  the  following  man- 
mer :  For  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  three  pounds 
of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  six  pounds  of  salt  are  dissolved 
in  six  gallons  of  water.  This  liquid  is  put  in  the  drum 
with  the  skins  and  the  skins  drummed  for  thirty  minutes. 
Then  a  second  solution  is  prepared,  consisting  of  ten  pounds 
of  hyposulphite  of  soda  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  warm 
water.  This  solution  is  poured  into  the  drum  and  the  skins 
milled  in  the  combined  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina, 
salt  and  hyposulphite  of  soda  for  twenty  minutes.  The 
hypo  solution  fixes  the  tannage  upon  the  skin  fibres,  mak- 
ing it  permanent.  It  also  thins  the  skins.  In  order  to 
overcome  the  thinning  of  the  skins,  which  is  an  objection- 
able feature,  another  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and 
salt  is  added.  This  may  consist  of  two  pounds  of  sulphate 
of  alumina  and  three  or  four  pounds  of  salt  dissolved  in 
three  gallons  of  water  and  is  added  to  the  skins  and  the  taw- 
ing materials  already  in  the  drum.  The  skins  are  drummed 
in  the  liquor  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes,  or  until  they  have 
acquired  the  desired  degree  of  plumpness.  The  skins  are 
then  taken  from  the  drum  and  are  preferably  rinsed  off  by 
a  single  dipping  of  them  separately  in  clean  water,  and  are 
then  horsed  up  for  several  hours  to  drain.  Thoroughly 
tawed  skins  are  produced  by  this  method  that  are  insoluble 
in  cold  water  and  even  in  warm  w^ater  and  that  make  mer- 
chantable leather  of  superior  quality  and  fine  grain.  After 
the  final  bath  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt,  the  skins 


SHEEPSKINS  :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


43 


may  be  dried  out  and  treated  in  the  finishing  operations  in 
the  same  manner  that  chrome-tanned  skins  are  treated. 
The  skins  may  also  be  tawed  in  vats.  This  method  is  mor 
economical  than  drum  tawing  but  requires  more  time.  The 
liquors  can  be  used  over  and  over  for  succeeding  lots  of 
skins.  The  quantities  of  tawing  materials  required  at  the 
start  are  the  same  as  in  drum  tawing.  Enough  water  is 
required  to  enable  the  skins  to  float  and  turn  in  the  liquor, 
and  the  process  can  be  hastened  by  the  use  of  warm  water, 
at  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees.  The  skins  may  be 
stirred  about  in  the  first  liquor  for  some  hours,  then  re- 
moved and  placed  in  a  weak  solution  of  hyposulphite  of 
soda,  and  from  this  solution  placed  in  another  liquor  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt,  and  left  therein  some  hours, 
then  drained  off  and  dried  out.  In  this  process  sulphate  of 
alumina  should  always  be  used  and  not  alum,  as  alum  does 
not  produce  so  good  results  as  the  former  article. 

A  process  of  tuhite  tawing,  recently  patented  in  Germany, 
Is  carried  out  in  the  following  manner  :  After  the  usual 
processes  of  dehairing  and  drenching,  the  skins  are  placed 
in  a  bath,  consisting  of  one  part  of  sulphate  of  alumina  to 
ten  parts  of  water.  A  small  quantity  of  muriatic  acid  is 
added  to  hasten  the  development  of  sulphuric  acid  in  gas 
form.  The  liberation  of  sulphuric  acid  forms  chloride  of 
aluminum.  The  skins  are  swollen  and  bleached  in  this 
liquor,  being  left  therein  for  forty  minutes.  After  removal 
from  the  liquor,  the  skins  are  allowed  to  drain  or  drip  and 
are  then  placed  in  an  ammonia  bath.  This  neutralizes  the 
free  acid,  while  the  precipitated  hydroxide  of  aluminum 
taws  the  skins  and  also  forms  a  mordant  for  any  color  that 
may  be  applied  to  the  leather. 

Very  soft  and  tough  white  leather 
May  be  made  by  a  modified  form  of  calf-kid  tawing  applied 
to  sheep  and  lambskins.    For  this  process  the  skins  require 
to  be  drenched  in  a  light  drench  of  sour  bran  and  salt  to 


44 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


rid  them  of  the  acid  used  in  pickling  them.  After  the}' 
have  drained,  the  skins  are  tawed  in  a  tawing  solution  com- 
posed of  five  pounds  of  alum,  eight  pounds  of  salt,  five 
pounds  of  flour,  five  pints  egg  yolk,  and  two  and  one- 
half  pints  of  neatsfoot  oil  for  each  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins  to  be  tawed.  The  alum  and  salt  are  dissolved  and 
mixed,  then  the  flour  is  added  and  then  the  egg  yolk  and 
oil.  The  skins  should  be  warm  when  they  are  put  into 
the  drum,  the  tawing  mixture  added  and  the  skins 
drummed  therein  for  at  least  one  hour,  after  which  they 
should  go  into  a  cold  alum  and  salt  solution  for  several 
days.  Taken  from  the  liquor  the  skins  should  be  dried 
in  a  warm  room  and  left  in  the  dry  state  for  some  time. 
They  are  then  dampened  and  staked  by  hand  or  on  a 
machine.  For  first-class  skins  the  stock  should  be  laid 
away  after  the  first  staking  for  several  weeks,  in  order  that 
they  may  retain  all  the  tawing  properties  and  make  soft 
plump  leather.  After  the  first  staking  and  while  they  are 
in  damp  condition  the  skins  are  shaved,  dried,  staked 
again,  and  are  then  finished  up  either  in  white  or  are 
colored  any  shade  or  dyed  black. 

Sheepskins  and  lamhsJdns  can  he  made  into  very  soft,  strong, 
glove  leather  by 

The  following  method  of  tawing :  For  each  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins  ready  for  tanning,  five  pounds  of  alum, 
ten  pounds  of  salt,  twenty  pounds  of  flour  and  ten  pounds 
of  egg  yolk  are  made  into  a  liquid  paste,  by  mixing  with 
ten  gallons  of  w^arm  water,  and  applied  to  the  skins  in  a 
pin  mill  drum  at  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees  Fah. 
The  skins  are  milled  in  the  liquor-paste  for  forty  minutes, 
or  until  they  have  absorbed  the  same.  They  are  then 
dried  out  and  stored  away  to  become  cured.  The  longer 
they  are  stored  before  they  are  finished  the  better  will  be 
the  finished  leather.  Skins  treated  in  this  w^ay  may  be 
finished  up  into  a  very  fine  glove  leather.    They  may  also 


SHEEPSKINS  :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


45 


be  uniformly  moistened  and  washed  with  warm  water, 
and  given  a  retannage  with  one-bath  chrome  liquors, 
colored  and  finished  up  as  chrome  leather  with  very  good 
results.  No  fat-liquoring  after  the  retanning  in  chrome 
is  required. 

In  the  tanning  of  sheep  and  lambskins  into  glove  leather, 

The  soluble  oil  known  as  Turkey-red  oil  may  be  used  in 
place  of  egg  yolk,  and  in  the  same  manner ;  or  the  skins 
may  be  treated  first  in  a  fifteen  per  cent,  solution  of  the  oil, 
dried,  and  the  treatment  with  oil  repeated,  and  the  skins 
then  tanned  in  the  usual  way.  To  the  oil  solution  some 
carbolic  acid  should  be  added  to  prevent  the  heating  of 
skins  while  they  are  stored  to  cure.  Salicylic  acid  aud  tar 
oil  may  also  be  used  in  place  of  carbolic  acid. 

When  pickled  skins  are  to  be  tanned  in  the  above  pro- 
cesses, the  acid  should  be  removed  by  a  thorough  drenching 
in  sour  bran  and  salt,  or  first  drenched  in  whiting  and  salt 
and  then  left  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  light  drench  of  sour 
bran  and  salt.  Getting  rid  of  the  animal  grease  is  also  an 
item  of  much  importance. 

COMBINATION  PROCESS  OF  ALUM  AND  CHROME. 

Pickled  sheep  and  lambskins  may  be  worked  into  fine, 
soft  leather,  possessing  the  good  qualities  of  both  alum  and 
chrome  leather  by  being  first  tawed  in  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina  and  salt,  composed  of  three  pounds  of  the 
former  and  six  pounds  of  the  latter,  in  ten  gallons  of  water 
for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  After  being  drummed 
in  this  solution  for  one  hour  the  skins  are  dried  out  and 
left  in  the  dr}^  state  for  two  or  three  weeks,  the  longer  the 
better ;  after  which  they  are  moistened  in  a  drum  or  vat  until 
all  parts  are  uniformly  soft  and  moist.  Then  they  are  tanned 
in  one-bath  chrome  liquors,  washed,  fat-liquored  with  a 
light  emulsion  of  oil  and  soap,  dried  out  and  finished  in 
the  manner  usually  employed  upon  chrome  leather.  When 


46 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


they  come  from  the  chrome  process,  in  order  to  remove  the 
green  or  blue  tinge,  they  may  be  washed  in  warm  borax 
water  for  twent}''  minutes  and  then  left  for  some  hours  in  a 
hot  bath  of  sumac.  This  process  not  only  bleaches  the 
skins,  but  makes  them  soft  and  elastic.  After  the  sumac 
bath  they  may  be  colored  any  shade  of  color,  the  sumac 
serving  as  a  mordant,  or  they  may  be  finished  up  without 
coloring  and  make  a  very  soft  white  leather  especially 
adapted  for  any  purpose  where  such  leather  is  wanted. 

A  very  good  fat-liquor 

For  this  class  of  stock  that  gives  nourishment  to  the  leather 
is  made  of  ten  pounds  of  potash  soap,  four  gallons  of  neats- 
foot  oil  and  ten  pounds  of  egg  yolk  in  forty  gallons  of  water. 
The  egg  yolk  should  not  be  added  until  the  soap  and  oil 
have  been  thoroughly  emulsified  and  the  temperature  oi 
the  emulsion  reduced  to  about  seventy-five  degrees  Fah. 
Two  gallons  of  this  fat-liquor  are  enough  for  each  dozen 
skins  intended  for  glove  leather.  For  shoe  leather  less 
fat-liquor  is  required.  Before  the  skins  are  dried  out  they 
should  be  well  struck  out  or  pressed,  and  the  surplus  water 
removed  from  them.  Then  a  light  coat  of  oil  may  be 
given  the  grain,  and  if  the  oil  is  warm  when  it  is  put  on  it 
will  penetrate  readily  into  the  leather  and  add  strength  to 
the  fibres. 

SHEEP  AND  LAMBSKINS  OIL-TANNED. 

Sheepskins  and  lambskins  when  tanned  in  oil  make  very 
soft,  elastic  leather,  very  useful  in  making  gloves  and  mit- 
tens. 

For  this  method  of  tanning,  the  skins  should  be  very 
thoroughly  limed,  and  then  freed  of  all  lime  before  they  are 
tanned.  A  good  method  of  washing  out  the  lime  without 
injury  to  the  skins  is  to  wash  them  in  a  warm  bath  of  lactic 
acid  in  a  drum.  This  may  consist  of  one  gallon  of  the 
acid  mixed  with  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  at  a  temper- 


SHEEPSKINS  :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


47 


ature  of  90  degrees  F.  A  washing  in  a  drum  for  thirty 
minutes  serves  to  wash  out  all  the  lime,  after  which  the 
skin  may  be  tanned  without  further  treatment. 

When  pickled  skins  are  to  be  oil  tanned  they  should  be 
drummed  up  in  salt  water,  and  then  drenched  in  a  light 
sour-bran  drench  in  order  to  get  them  perfectly  clean  and 
free  from  acid. 

Before  any  oil  is  applied  the  skins  should  be  allowed  to 
drain  well  and  then  pressed  and  as  much  as  possible  of  the 
surplus  water  removed  from  them.  The  process  of  oil  tan- 
ning is  carried  out  best  with  appliances  and  machinery 
especially  designed  for  the  purpose.  Newfoundland  cod  oil 
of  the  best  quality  produces  excellent  results.  The  skins 
are  heavily  sprinkled  with  the  oil,  and  then  subjected  to 
machinery,  by  means  of  which  the  oil  is  forced  into  the 
skins.  The  work  of  oiling  and  treating  the  skins  is  re- 
peated two  or  three  times,  or  until  they  have  assumed  a  de- 
cided yellow  or  mustard  color. 

After  this  part  of  the  work  is  completed  the  leather  is 
made  to  undergo  a  process  of  heating,  by  which  the  oxida- 
tion of  the  oil  begun  during  the  previous  process  is  com- 
pleted by  the  fermentation  that  takes  place  in  the  skins. 
The  skins  are  laid  in  a  moderately  warm  room  in  heaps  and 
allowed  to  heat.  The  heat  is  generated  spontaneously,  and 
the  piles  of  skins  must  be  closely  watched  and  frequently 
turned  over.  The  highest  temperature  allowable  is  140° 
Fah.;  a  temperature  higher  than  this  seriously  damages 
the  skins.  All  organic  matter  in  the  skins  is  destroyed. 
This  process  of  heating  is  a  very  delicate  one  and  upon  its 
being  properly  done  depends  the  success  of  the  leather. 

Unless  sufficient  heat  is  generated  the  skins  will  rot;  and 
when  too  much  heat  is  produced  they  become  dissolved. 
When  the  fermentation  ceases  and  the  skins  are  no  longer 
capable  of  heating  they  are  treated  to  remove  surplus  oil. 
This  may  be  done  by  washing  them  in  hot  water,  and  then 
subjecting  them  to  pressure  by  means  of  a  hydraulic  press. 


48 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


A  great  deal  of  grease  is  squeezed  out  in  this  way.  The 
finishing  process  consists  of  drying  out  the  skins  and  work- 
ing them  soft,  and  removing  all  roughness  and  unevenness 
from  the  flesh.  In  some  instances  the  skins  are  hung  up 
in  a  warm  closed  room,  inslead  of  being  placed  in  piles  to 
ferment. 

Very  soft  tough  glove  leather 
May  be  made  by  treating  sheep  and  lambskins  with  a 
mixture  composed  of  four  pounds  of  alum,  six  pounds  of 
salt,  twenty  pounds  of  wheat  flour,  and  flve  pints  of  egg 
yolk  and  two  and  one-half  pints  of  olive  oil.  These 
articles  are  thoroughly  mixed  together  in  twelve  gallons 
of  warm  water,  and  are  used  for  each  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins.  The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  mixture  for 
thirty  minutes,  and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  They 
should  be  left  in  the  dry  state  for  some  months  to  cure, 
and  may  then  be  worked  out  and  finished.  It  may  be 
interesting  for  the  tanner  to  know  that  the  soluble  oils 
known  as  Turkey-red  oils  or  alizarine  oils  may  be  used  in 
place  of  egg  yolk.  They  may  also  be  used  upon  chrome 
tanned  skins  in  place  of  emulsions  of  soap  and  oil. 

Sheep  and  lambskins  may  be  oil-tanned 
By  being  passed  through  a  warm  twenty-five  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  the  oils,  or  they  may  be  treated  with  the  same  in  a 
drum.  After  the  treatment  with  oil,  the  skins  are  placed 
in  piles  and  allowed  to  heat,  by  being  covered  up  in  a  mod- 
erately warm  room.  They  are  then  hung  in  the  air  and 
dried  slowly,  after  which  they  are  again  treated  with  the 
oil,  being  first  washed  in  an  alkaline  solution  and  then 
having  oil  applied  in  the  same  manner  as  at  first.  They 
are  again  allowed  to  heat,  dried  again  and  washed  in  a  weak 
solution  of  borax  or  other  alkali.  The  drying  and  treating 
with  oil  may  be  repeated  from  two  to  four  times,  after  which 
the  skins  are  dried  and  worked  out  soft.  The  results  may 
be  changed  by  greater  or  less  concentration  of  the  oil  solu- 


SHEEPSKINS :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


49 


tion,  by  higher  temperatures  in  drying  and  by  being  passed 
more  often  through  the  oil  solution.  As  has  been  suggested, 
the  skins  may  be  tanned  by  a  combination  of  the  oil  with 
the  salts  of  alumina.  One  method  of  doing  this  is  to  steep 
the  prepared  skins  in  an  oil  solution  and  then  dry  them 
out.  The  operation  may  be  repeated  and  then  the  skins 
tanned  with  alum  and  salt  in  the  usual  way.  Or  the  sol- 
uble oil  may  be  used  in  place  of  egg  yolk  in  any  process 
where  such  article  is  used,  and  after  drying  out  the  skins 
they  may  be  finished  into  alum  leather  of  a  superior 
quality,  or  they  may  be  uniformly  moistened  with  warm 
borax  water  and  tanned  in  a  one-bath  chrome  process. 
Very  desirable  glove  leather  is  made  in  this  way. 

To  the  oil  solution  some  carbolic  acid  may  be  added  to 
counteract  the  too  strong  heating  of  the  skins  while  they 
are  stored  to  cure.  In  place  of  carbolic  acid,  other  suitable 
substances  having  a  similar  effect,  such  as  salicylic  acid 
and  tar  oil,  may  be  used.  The  advantages  of  using  Turkey- 
red  oils  in  tanning  are  great  softness  and  toughness  and 
uniform  diffusion  of  the  oil  throughout  the  leather. 

THE  MAKING  OF  NAPA  LEATHER. 

The  cheapest  tannage  by  which  sheepskins  are  tanned  is 
the  Napa  tannage,  so  called  because  it  originated  in  Napa, 
Cal.  The  process  is  more  of  a  curing  than  a  tanning 
one,  as  it  really  only  cures  the  skins.  The  process  may 
justly  be  considered  a  soap  and  oil  tannage.  The  leather  it 
produces  is  possessed  of  considerable  strength  and  softness, 
and  is  used  for  linings,  bindings,  gloves  and  suspender 
work.  For  this  tannage  light-weight  skins  are  used.  Three 
classes  of  leather  are  made,  white,  dull  and  black  in  dull 
and  glazed  finishes.  For  the  white  leather  the  poorer  skins 
are  used.  As  they  are  finished  upon  the  flesh  side,  the 
quality  of  the  grain  is  of  no  importance.  For  black,  Napa 
skins  of  medium  quality  are  used.  The  ones  of  fine  grain 
are  glazed,  while  the  poorer  quality  skins  go  into  dull  finish. 
4 


50 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  original  process  of  making  Napa  leather  consisted  of 
removing  the  wool  by  sweating,  and  then  treating  the  skins 
to  the  tanning  process.  No  lime  was  used  at  any  stage  of 
the  process,  and  the  skins  were  thus  left  flat  and  the  strength 
of  the  fibres  was  not  weakened.  As  the  process  of  preparing 
the  raw  skins  has  changed  considerably,  various  modifica- 
tions have  crept  in.  At  the  present  time  the  wool  is  re- 
moved by  the  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  lime.  The 
skins  are  given  very  little  or  no  lime  at  all,  but  of  course 
need  to  be  thoroughly  washed  before  they  are  tanned  or 
pickled.  Large  quantities  of  skins  are  received  by  the 
tanners  in  pickled  condition,  having  been  pickled  in  sul- 
phuric acid,  salt  and  water.  These  skins  are  first  pressed 
in  a  hydraulic  press  to  remove  the  grease  and  are  then 
drummed  up  in  a  solution  of  salt  and  water  to  get  them  in 
suitable  condition  to  be  tanned.  The  original  Napa  process 
consisted  of  the  following  method  of  tanning  :  For  about 
two  hundred  skins,  twenty  pounds  of  salt,  thirty  pounds  of 
white  rock  potash  and  three  hundred  gallons  of  water  con- 
stituted the  first  part  of  the  process.  The  skins  were  left  in 
the  liquor  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  wrung  out  very  dry 
and  immersed  in  the  second  solution.  This  consisted  of 
twelve  pounds  of  hard  soap,  two  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  and 
one  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water.  The  skins  w^ere 
left  in  this  liquor  until  the  liquor  had  thoroughly  pene- 
trated them,  then  they  were  dried  out  and  passed  through 
the  process  a  second  and  even  a  third  time,  as  they  seemed 
to  require.  After  the  last  drying  the  skins  were  washed  in 
clean  water  to  make  them  clean  and  soft  and  were  then 
colored  any  desired  shade,  or  blacked  or  left  white,  as  was 
desired  by  the  tanner. 

Pickled  skins  are  really  partly  cured  when  received  at 
the  tannery,  and  in  some  instances  it  suffices  to  merely 
neutralize  the  acid  in  them.  For  this  purpose  soda  and  oil 
are  sometimes  used,  also  borax  and  oil.  For  white  leather 
the  skins  receive  no  further  treatment,  but  are  dried  in  a 
warm  room  and  as  rapidly  as  possible. 


SHEEPSKINS  :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


51 


Coloring  black  Napa. 

Black  Napa  leather  is  generally  colored  blue  on  the  flesh 
side.  This  may  be  done  by  the  use  of  Direct  Blue  Paste,  a 
paste  specially  prepared  for  the  purpose.  It  produces  a  full, 
dark  blue  shade,  and  penetrates  the  skins  from  flesh  to 
grain.  This  is  the  method  of  using  it :  For  ten  dozen  skins 
direct  from  the  press,  two  gallons  of  the  blue  paste  are  dis- 
solved in  ten  gallons  of  water,  and  the  skins  are  drummed 
in  this  liquor  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  allowed  to 
lie  over  night  and  are  tanned  the  next  day.  A  good  black- 
ing for  this  class  of  leather  is  made  as  follows  :  Five  pounds 
of  nitric  acid,  five  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  and  one  pint  of 
water.  Enough  wrought  iron  chips  are  used  to  kill  the 
acid,  then  seven  pounds  of  copperas  are  dissolved  in  five 
gallons  of  water  and  added  to  the  above.  A  good  "  sig  "  is 
made  of  forty  gallons  of  water,  twelve  pounds  of  salts  of 
tartar,  five  pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  one  quart 
of  ammonia.  These  formulae  are  in  practical  use  and  giv- 
ing good  results. 

The  skins,  after  becoming  dry  are  moistened  and  then 
dampened  down  for  stalling.  This  is  usually  accomplished 
by  dipping  the  skins  in  water  and  then  letting  them  lie  in 
piles  until  they  become  uniformly  moistened.  When  in 
just  the  right  condition,  the  skins  are  knee-staked  for  the 
purpose  of  softening  them  and  to  get  rid  of  all  stretch. 
After  this  work  is  completed,  the  skins  are  tacked  or 
stretched  upon  boards  in  moist  condition  and  left  until 
thoroughly  dry.  When  they  are  dry  they  are  buffed  on 
emery  wheels.  Upon  the  white  Napas  this  is  a  very  import- 
ant part  of  the  w^ork.  The  buffing  is  done  to  remove  the 
surplus  flesh  and  to  make  the  skins  clean  and  smooth  upon 
the  flesh  side.  The  black  napa  leather  is  finished  upon  the 
grain  in  dull  and  glazed  finishes.  The  dull  finish  is  ob- 
tained by  ironing  the  skins  while  they  are  slightly  moist 
w^ith  seasoning,  and  for  the  glazed  finish  the  skins  are 
glazed  upon  machines. 


52 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  following  process  produces  very  soft,  tough  leather, 

Especially  adapted  for  cheap  gloves,  button  fly  linings  and 
similar  purposes.    The  leather  is  very  similar  to  Napa 
leather,  in  fact  it  is  a  Napa  process.    The  skins  are  treated 
in  the  beamhouse  in  the  usual  way.    Very  little  or  no  lime 
at  all  is  required,  the  skins  being  merely  depilated  either 
by  the  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  or  by  a  mixture  of  'sul- 
phide of  sodium  and  lime.    For  ten  dozen  sheepskins  of 
average  size,  prepared  for  tanning,  a  solution  is  prepared 
composed  of  two  pounds  of  caustic  soda  and  one  pound  of 
borax  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  the  skins.    This  solution 
and  the  skins  are  placed  in  the  drum  and  milled  for  thirty 
minutes,  after  which  the  skins  are  removed  from  the  liquor, 
hung  up  and  dried  out.    They  are  next  immersed  in  a 
liquor  composed  of  five  pounds  of  hard  soap,  one  gallon  of 
straits  or  neatsfoot  oil,  one-half  pound  caustic  soda  and 
seventy-five  pounds  of  water.    In  this  solution  the  skins 
should  remain  until  they  have  become  thoroughly  softened, 
after  which  they  are  put  into  a  drum  with  a  part  of  the 
second  composition  and  run  for  aboyt  thirty  minutes,  being 
then  removed  and  dried  as  before.    In  many  instances  this 
process  thoroughly  tans  the  skins.    When  not  considered 
quite  satisfactory  after  drying  out  the  second  time,  they 
may  be  soaked  soft  in  the  second  liquor  or  drummed  in 
drums  and  worked  through  the  process  a  second  time. 
Some  skins  require  longer  treatment  than  others.  After 
they  have  been  treated  in  this  manner  and  have  become 
leather,  they  are  put  into  a  very  weak  solution  of  soap,  oil 
and  caustic  soda,  thoroughly  mixed  with  water,  in  order  to 
soften  them,  and  in  this  moist  condition  they  may  be  col- 
ored any  desired  shade,  or  for  white  leather  they  are  dried 
without  further  treatment  and  then  worked  soft.    By  this 
process  leather  is  made  that  never  cracks  nor  does  it  pull 
apart  after  being  sewed. 

The  less  lime  that  is  used  in  preparing  the  skins  the 


SHEEPSKINS  :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


58 


better,  and  as  no  acids  are  used  in  the  process,  the  fibres  of 
the  skins  are  left  in  their  natural  state  and  strength. 

Another  process  of  preparing  sheepskins  for  linings,  bindings 

and  similar  purposes, 
Is  carried  out  as  follows :  The  pelts  are  depilated  in  the 
usual  manner  and  then  limed  for  a  few  days  in  weak  limes. 
For  tanning  six  dozen  sheepskins  the  following  composition 
is  used :  Eighteen  pounds  of  salt,  two  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid,  thirty-six  pounds  of  sumac  or  quercitron  bark,  two 
ounces  hydrochloric  acid  and  one  hundred  gallons  of  water. 
The  strength  of  the  sumac  or  bark  is  extracted  with  hot 
water,  then  the  salt  is  added,  and  finally  the  acids,  and  the 
whole  mixture  is  thoroughly  incorporated  by  stirring.  The 
skins  are  treated  to  this  solution  in  a  paddle-vat,  although 
a  drum  may  also  be  used,  and  after  tanning  they  are  hung 
up  and  dried  out,  then  moistened  back  and  either  blacked 
or  colored  or  left  white  and  finished  by  working  and 
ironing. 

2o  produce  quickly  and  cheaply  a  soft,  tough  leather  from 
sheepskins, 

Suitable  for  gloves  and  mittens,  or  any  other  purpose  where 
a  soft,  tough  leather  is  required,  the  following  mixture  may 
be  used  :  Seven  pounds  of  either  alum  or  sulphate  of  alu- 
mina, three  pounds  of  glauber  salt,  four  pounds  of  common 
salt,  ten  gallons  of  soft  water,  five  pounds  of  ground  sumac, 
three  pounds  of  oak  bark,  one  pound  of  nutgalls  and  four 
ounces  of  sulphuric  acid.  In  preparing  the  mixture,  the 
alum,  glauber  salt  and  common  salt  are  dissolved  in  the 
water,  then  the  sumac,  oak  bark  and  nutgalls  are  added 
and  boiled  briskly  for  twenty  minutes,  then  such  mixture, 
while  hot,  is  strained,  and  the  four  ounces  of  acid  are  added 
and  the  mixture  thoroughly  stirred.  The  liquor  is  prefer- 
ably used  warm,  at  blood  heat,  and  the  skins  treated  therein 
for  a  period  of  twenty-four  hours,  being  stirred  about  for 
one  hour,  and  then  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  for  the 


54 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


remainder  of  the  time,  being  stirred  about  occasionally. 
The  process  can  also  be  carried  out  in  drums  and  the  skins 
drummed  in  the  liquor  for  one  hour  and  then  allowed  to 
drain  for  a  few  hours. 

Upon  coming  from  the  liquor  the  skins  are  given  a  thor- 
ough striking  out  upon  both  the  flesh  and  the  grain  sides 
with  a  glass  slicker.  This  is  followed  by  a  moderately  heavy 
coat  of  lard  or  neatsfoot  oil  applied  to  both  sides.  Then  the 
skins  are  hung  up  in  a  warm  room  and  allowed  to  dry,  thus 
completing  the  process.  By  the  use  of  the  mixture  de- 
scribed, skins  can  be  tanned  very  quickly  and  cheaply  and 
the  resulting  leather  can  be  colored  any  shade.  The  leather 
is,  to  quite  a  degree,  impervious  to  moisture.  Before  apply- 
ing the  oil,  which  should  be  warm,  the  water  should  be 
thoroughl}^  struck  out  of  the  skins.  The  leather  should  be 
worked  as  it  dries,  the  working  and  drying  continued  until 
the  skins  are  thoroughly  dry  and  soft. 

The  following  process  is  especially  adapted  to  sheepskin 
fleshers, 

To  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of  gloves,  for  bindings,  etc. 
The  quantities  of  tanning  materials  mentioned  are  sufficient 
for  two  dozen  fleshers  of  ordinary  size.  The  fleshers  are 
immersed,  stirred  about  and  pounded  for  about  thirty  min- 
utes in  a  fluid  prepared  as  follows :  One  pound  of  alum  is 
dissolved  in  one  and  one-half  gallons  of  water  which  is 
readily  done  by  boiling.  Then  in  another  vessel  are  mixed 
one-half  pound  of  flour  and  one-half  pound  of  oatmeal  or 
one  pound  of  either  alone,  with  one  gill  of  oil  and  one  and 
one-half  gallons  of  water,  and  this  mixture  is  mixed  with 
the  alum  solution.  The  tanning  materials  may  be  applied 
to  the  skins  in  a  drum,  and  at  the  end  of  thirty  minutes  the 
skins  are  taken  out  of  the  drum.  They  are  then  immersed 
for  thirty  minutes,  either  in  a  vat,  tub  or  drum,  in  a  fluid 
mixture  composed  of  one  gill  of  ammonia,  one-half  of  a  bar 
of  soap,  one-half  ounce  of  soda,  one-half  pound  of  salt  and 


SHEEPSKINS  :  ALUM,  OIL  AND  NAPA. 


55 


about  two  ounces  of  whiting  or  ochre,  all  boiled  in  one  and 
a  half  gallons  of  water.  To  this  solution  is  added  either  one 
pound  of  flour  or  one  pound  of  oatmeal  mixed  in  one  and 
one-half  gallons  of  water,  and  the  fleshers  drummed  in  the 
mixture  for  thirty  minutes,  after  which  they  are  dried, 
worked  soft  and  finished  upon  either ^the  grain  or  the  flesh 
side.  The  skins  dressed  in  this  manner  are  very  soft  and 
pliable,  with  much  elasticity,  and  strength  of  fibre  without 
roughness. 

After  the  skins  have  been  treated  to  the  first  part  of  the 
process  they  may  be  dried,  staked  and  finished  on  either  or 
both  sides  without  being  subjected  to  the  second  part  of  the 
process,  and  when  this  is  done  they  are  of  very  good  quality 
and  susceptible  of  taking  a  very  nice  finish.  Yet  it  is  pre- 
ferable to  use  the  entire  process  in  dressing  the  skins,  as 
they  are  thus  given  a  superior  quality  and  a  capacity  for  a 
better  finish  than  when  only  the  first  part  is  used,  and  when 
finished  they  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  castor  or  mocha 
glove  leather. 

In  order  to  get  the  skins  soft  and  elastic,  and  at  the  same 
time  tough  and  strong,  it  is  necessary  that  they  be  handled 
in  such  a  way  in  the  early  processes  of  the  beamhouse  as  to 
prevent  any  loss  of  substance  or  strength.  The  use  of  sul: 
phide  of  sodium  in  removing  the  wool  shortens  the  time 
consumed  in  the  preparation  of  the  skins  and  at  the  same 
time  helps  to  make  tough  and  soft  leather.  A  liming  of 
from  six  to  eight  days  is  generally  suflicient  for  heavy  skins, 
and  after  the  liming  is  completed  the  drenching  should  be 
carefully  done.  The  bran  drench  produces  a  very  soft  skin, 
as  does  also  lactic  acid,  the  latter  article  being  very  simple 
and  safe  to  use. 

The  drenching  may  be  done  in  a  drum,  about  three 
quarts  of  acid  being  used  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  warm 
water  and  the  skins  drummed  or  milled  for  not  longer  than 
thirty  minutes. 


56 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Sheepskin  fleshers  may  also  he  tanned  by  any  of  the  chrome 

processes, 

And  after  tanning  should  be  well  fat-liquored.  A  good 
practice  is  to  add  a  solution  of  flour  and  water  to  the  fat- 
liquor.  This  increases  the  fullness  of  the  leather  as  well  as 
its  strength  and  softness.  Very  good  leather  can  also  be 
made  from  the  fleshers  by  tanning  them  in  a  mixture  of 
alum,  salt,  oil  and  flour,  then  drying  them  out  and  working 
them  soft  by  staking.  The  softness  of  alum-tanned  skins  is 
produced  by  a  mixture  of  egg  yolk  and  olive  oil  mixed  with 
the  alum  and  salt  or  applied  after  tanning.  The  longer  the 
tanned  skins  lie  in  dry  condition  before  being  worked  out 
and  finished,  the  softer  and  finer  will  be  the  texture  of  the 
finished  stock. 

When  the  fleshers  are  received  by  the  tanner  in  pickled 
condition  they  require  a  drenching  in  sour  bran  and  salt 
in  order  to  remove  from  them  the  acid  before  they  are 
treated  with  the  alum  and  salt  process. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


WOOLSKINS. 

THE  TANNING  OF  SHEARLINGS,  SHEEP  PELTS   FOE,  MITTENS, 
KUGS  AND  SIMILAR  PURPOSES. 

The  tanning  of  sheepskins  with  the  wool  on,  for  rugs, 
mittens,  linings  and  similar  purposes,  is  not  a  very  compli- 
cated process.  Yet  in  order  to  get  the  best  results  at  low 
cost,  some  attention,  of  course,  must  be  given  to  the  details 
of  the  work.  All  useless  parts  of  the  skins  should  be  cut 
olf  and  the  skins  soaked  for  a  few  hours  in  water  and  then 
fleshed.  One  good  method  of  tanning  the  skins  is  carried 
out  as  follows :  Mix  to  a  paste  with  a  little  water,  and  dis- 
solve half  an  ounce  each  of  borax,  saltpeter  and  glauber 
salts  for  each  skin.  Spread  this  with  a  brush  over  the  flesh 
of  the  skins,  using  it  more  freely  on  the  thicker  portions. 
Double  or  fold  the  skin  together  with  the  wool  on  the  out- 
side, and  leave  it  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours.  Wash 
each  skin  very  clean  and  apply  in  the  same  manner  a  mix- 
ture of  half  an  ounce  each  of  borax  or  sal  soda,  two  ounces 
of  hard  white  soap,  melted  together  but  not  allowed  to  boil. 
Fold  the  skin  wool  side  out  and  leave  it  in  a  warm  place 
twenty-four  hours.  Dissolve  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  alum, 
half  a  pound  of  salt  and  two  ounces  of  soda  in  enough  hot 
water  to  saturate  each  skin.  When  the  hands  can  be  borne 
in  the  solution,  put  in  the  skins  and  leave  them  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  then  wring  them  out  and  hang  them  up  to  dry. 
Work  the  skins  as  they  dry  until  they  become  at  once  dry 
and  soft.  Finish  up  the  skins  upon  an  emery  wheel  and 
then  rub  them  with  pumice  stone. 

(57) 


58 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


To  color  the  skins 
Stretch  them  tightly,  skin  side  down,  upon  a  smooth  board, 
and  tack  firmly,  then  lower  the  board  into  the  bath  of  pre- 
pared dyestuff  so  that  the  wool  only  is  exposed  to  the  dye. 
Before  coloring  the  skins  wash  the  wool  thoroughly  with 
soapsuds  and  then  rinse  out  the  suds  with  clear  water. 
After  coloring  rinse  the  skins  with  water  and  dry  them  out. 
When  white  wool  is  wanted,  it  may  be  bleached  with  brim- 
stone, as  will  be  described  later  on. 

Another  process, 
Somewhat  different  from  the  foregoing,  but  equally  as  good, 
is  the  following :  Soak  the  fresh  skins  in  soft  water  for 
twenty-four  hours,  then  flesh  thoroughly  to  remove  grease, 
flesh  and  blood.  Then  work  the  skins  in  warm  soapsuds 
and  rinse  in  clean  water  until  the  wool  is  clean.  Spread 
the  skins,  flesh  side  up,  and  apply  to  them  a  mixture  of 
salt,  alum,  saltpetre  and  bran.  This  may  consist  of  one 
pound  of  salt,  half  a  pound  of  pulverized  alum,  half  pound 
saltpeter  and  twice  the  bulk  of  the  whole  of  bran.  Fold 
the  skins  up  tightly  and  let  them  lie  in  a  cool  place  for  a 
number  of  days,  the  longer  the  better,  then  scrape  off  the 
mixture,  dry  out  the  skins  and  work  them  soft.  The  skins 
are  made  very  soft  and  white,  by  being  tanned  in  a  mixture 
of  bran,  salt  and  alum  in  this  manner :  Mix  bran  and  soft 
water  sufficient  to  cover  the  skins.  Immerse  the  skins  and 
keep  them  covered  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  remove,  wash 
clean  and  carefully  remove  all  flesh.  To  one  gallon  of  hot 
water  add  one  pound  of  alum  and  one- quarter  pound  of 
salt.  When  dissolved  and  cool  enough  to  admit  entrance 
of  the  hand,  immerse  the  skins  for  twenty-four  hours,  then 
dry  them  out.  Stir  the  liquor  again,  immerse  the  skins  and 
leave  them  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  dry  them  again  and 
work  them  soft. 

A  tanning  solution  may  also  he  prepared 
Of  ten  gallons  water,  one-half  bushel  wheat  bran,  seven 


WOOLSKINS. 


59 


pounds  salt,  four  pounds  alum  and  two  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid.  Dissolve  and  mix  these  ingredients  together  and  then 
place  the  washed  skins  in  the  liquor.  Allow  them  to  re- 
main in  the  liquor  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours ;  the 
longer  they  are  left  in,  the  better  tanned  they  will  be.  Then 
let  them  drain  well,  and  then  dry  them  out  and  work  them 
soft.  Usually  alum-tanned  sheepskins  dry  out  soft  without 
any  oil  being  required.  The  softness  may  be  increased  by 
applying  to  the  flesh  side  a  coat  of  oil  before  the  skins  are 
dried  out.  A  paste  may  be  made  of  the  ingredients  men- 
tioned above  and  this  spread  evenly  over  the  flesh  side,  and 
then  the  skins  allowed  to  lie  some  hours,  and  then  dried 
and  worked  soft.  When  a  liquor  is  used  it  is  necessary  to 
wash  the  wool  before  the  skins  are  colored  and  finished. 

Shee])  pelts  with  the  wool  on  may  also  be  tanned 

In  the  following  manner :  The  pelts  should  be  thoroughly 
washed  in  warm  soapsuds,  and  fleshed,  and  well  rinsed  in 
clear  water  before  they  are  tanned.  When  the  pelts  are 
well  cleaned  and  scoured  make  a  brine  of  common  salt  at 
blood  heat  until  no  more  will  dissolve.  Then  prepare  a 
quantity  of  mucilage  by  passing  hot  water  through  a  fine 
sack  filled  with  clean  wheat  bran.  Also  dissolve  a  small 
quantity  of  starch  in  warm  water.  Let  the  brine,  mucilage 
and  starch  water  settle  until  quite  clear,  then  pour  them 
carefully  together  into  a  wooden  or  earthen  vessel  of  suffi- 
cient dimensions  to  give  free  motion  to  the  pelts  when 
they  are  stirred.  When  a  large  number  of  skins  are  being 
handled  vats  or  tubs  should  be  used.  Prepare  a  strong  alum 
solution,  and  dip  the  pelts  in  this  several  times  or  let  them 
lie  therein  for  two  hours.  The  liquor  should  be  warm. 
Then  rinse  the  pelts  free  from  the  alum  water  and  wring 
or  press  them  as  dry  as  possible.  When  all  is  ready  pour 
into  the  vat  the  mixture  of  brine  and  mucilage,  at  blood  heat ; 
add  a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid,  (two  pounds  of  acid 
to  ten  gallons  of  water  or  mixture,)  and  put  the  pelts  in 


GO 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


quickly,  stirring  them  as  briskly  as  possible  for  a  few 
minutes.  Then  take  the  pelts  out,  let  them  drain,  and 
then  scrape  the  flesh  as  dry  as  possible,  and  then  put  them 
back  in  process  for  one  hour.  Be  careful  to  have  the  mix- 
ture touch  every  part  of  the  skins.  Hang  the  pelts  in  a 
dry  room  until  they  become  dry  enough  to  pull  out  white 
when  they  are  pulled  or  stretched  in  any  direction.  Con- 
tinue the  pulling  and  w^orking  while  the  pelts  are  drying, 
as  a  great  deal  depends  upon  the  skins  being  worked  when 
they  are  just  dry  enough  to  pull  out  white  when  stretched, 
and  by  continuing  the  stretching  and  pulling  until  the 
skins  are  thoroughly  dry  and  soft.  When  the  pelts  are 
dry  they  should  be  beamed  with  a  dull  knife  and  finished 
upon  the  flesh  side  by  being  polished  with  coarse  sand- 
paper. 

The  following  is  a  cheap  and  simple  method  of  preparing  sheep- 
pelts  with  the  wool  on. 

Make  a  strong  lather  of  soap  and  hot  water.  Let  it  stand 
until  it  becomes  cool.  If  the  pelts  are  salt}^,  soak  them  be- 
fore washing,  for  a  few  hours  in  water  until  the  salt  is  dis- 
solved. Then  wash  them  in  the  soapsuds,  picking  from 
the  wool  all  the  dirt  and  burrs  that  will  come  off.  A  little 
paraffine,  or  turpentine — a  teaspoonful  of  either — to  three 
gallons  of  water  will  help  in  removing  the  impurities. 
Wash  the  pelts  thoroughly  in  the  soapsuds  and  squeeze  the 
wool  until  it  is  quite  clean.  Then  wash  them  in  clean, 
warm  water  until  all  the  soap  is  removed.  Dissolve  for 
each  skin  one  pound  of  salt  and  one  pound  of  alum  in  two 
gallons  of  hot  water,  and  mix  the  liquor  w^ith  sufficient 
water  to  cover  the  skins  in  a  tub  or  vat.  Let  the  skins 
soak  in  the  liquor  for  twenty-four  hours  and  stir  them 
about  occasionally.  Then  remove  them  from  the  liquor 
and  allow  them  to  drain  thoroughly.  When  they  are  well 
drained  they  should  be  stretched  on  boards  or  hung  up 
until  dried  out.    Before  they  become  quite  dry  they  should 


WOOLSKINS. 


61 


be  sprinkled  on  the  flesh  side  with  a  mixture  of  pulverized 
alum  and  saltpetre  well  rubbed  into  the  skin.  These 
articles  may  also  be  dissolved  and  applied  to  the  skin  in 
liquid  form.  Try  the  wool  to  see  if  it  is  firm  upon  the 
grain ;  if  not,  let  the  pelts  remain  a  day  or  two  longer  in 
the  alum  and  salt  liquor  and  then  dry  them  out  again. 
Dry  them  in  a  warm  room,  and  work  and  stretch  them 
occasionally  as  they  dry  until  they  become  thoroughly  soft 
and  dry.  To  remove  the  salt  and  alum  from  the  wool,  the 
pelt  should  be  stretched  out  and  the  wool  washed  with  a 
solution  of  soap  and  water,  after  which  it  may  be  bleached 
with  sulphur.  The  pelts  may  also  be  tanned,  after  washing 
and  rinsing,  in  a  solution  composed  of  glauber  salt,  borax 
and  salt.  Leave  skins  in  this  mixture  for  twenty-four 
hours,  then  dry  them  out  as  above  suggested. 

The  salt  and  alum  used  in  tanning  sheep  pelts  have  the 
effect  upon  the  dirt  and  grease  in  the  wool  to  set  them  and 
thus  to  make  it  very  difficult  to  remove  them  after  tanning. 
For  this  reason  the  pelts  require  to  be  thoroughly  washed 
before  they  are  tanned,  and  at  the  same  time  they  must  be 
watched  and  washed  carefully  so  that  the  wool  will  not  start 
or  become  loosened. 

During  a  process  of  alum  and  salt  tanning  the  pelts  should 
be  handled  about  in  the  liquid  so  that  all  spots  will  become 
uniforml}^  tanned.  When  tanned  they  should  be  allowed 
to  drain,  and  may  then  be  painted  upon  the  flesh  with  a 
paste  made  of  flour,  salt,  alum  and  water.  The  ingredients 
should  be  boiled  until  the  paste  thickens,  and  after  it  be- 
comes cool  the  paste  is  spread  on,  and  well  rubbed  into 
the  flesh.  The  skins  are  next  folded  up  and  placed  in  piles 
for  a  day  or  longer  until  thoroughly  tanned.  The  entire 
process  may  be  carried  out  without  tubs  or  vats,  the  skins 
being  painted  every  day  for  three  days  until  they  are  com- 
pletely tanned.  The  scouring  of  the  wool  after  tanning 
should  be  done  on  a  table  built  for  the  purpose.  The  pelts 
are  laid  on  the  table  flesh  side  down  and  struck  out  smooth 


62 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


with  a  copper  slicker,  to  prevent  the  washing  out  of  any 
of  the  tannage.  For  scouring  the  wool,  suds  made  of 
water,  soft  soap,  soda-ash  and  salt  are  used.  The  strength 
of  the  suds  must  be  determined  by  the  condition  of  the  wool 
as  regards  grease  and  dirt.  Too  strong  suds  not  only 
darken  the  wool  but  render  it  rough  and  harsh.  In  the 
washing  of  the  pelts  before  tanning  soft  water  should  be 
used.  Borax  added  to  the  water  not  only  helps  in  the 
cleansing  but  gives  a  soft  feel  to  the  wool. 

For  white  woolskins  the  alum  and  salt  tannage  is  used, 
as  this  does  not  color  the  wool ;  but  when  the  wool  is  to 
be  colored  fancy  shades  or  black,  other  processes  may  be 
used.  When  bark  is  used  as  a  tannage  the  wool  becomes 
darkened,  and  turns  into  a  golden  brown  when  it  is  scoured. 

Some  sheepskins  are  very  greasy,  much  more  so  than 
others,  and  these  greasy  skins  sometimes  take  the  tawing 
materials  very  slowly.  A  great  deal  of  trouble  is  met  with 
because  of  the  grease  in  the  pelts.  Very  often  the  grease 
comes  through  upon  the  wool  after  the  pelts  are  cut  up  into 
finished  articles  ;  at  other  times  the  grease  causes  trouble  by 
staining  the  lining  and  making  a  bad  odor.  The  greasy 
skins  should  be  very  thoroughly  washed  and  beamed  be- 
fore they  are  tanned.  A  weak  alkali  liquor  helps  to  remove 
the  grease.  In  the  case  of  very  heavy  and  greasy  skins 
it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  treat  them  with  naphtha. 
Usually  tanners  have  not  the  facilities  for  doing  this  work, 
and  the  skins  are  sent  to  men  who  make  a  business  of  re- 
moving grease  from  skins  tanned  with  the  hair  or  wool  on. 

To  tan  the  skins  in  bark  extract  they  should  be  soaked 
and  washed  in  warm  soapsuds  and  then  rinsed  in  clear 
water  in  order  to  get  them  as  clean  as  possible.  The  tan- 
ning liquor  is  made  up  of  salt,  alum  and  extract.  Hemlock 
is  largely  used,  although  others  give  just  as  good  results. 
The  pelts  are  left  in  the  liquor  one  day,  then  hauled  out 
and  drained,  and  the  liquor  in  the  vat  strengthened  by  the 
addition  of  a  few  pailfuls  of  dissolved  extract.    It  is  good 


WOOLSKINS. 


63 


practice,  as  it  helps  in  the  tanning,  and  to  give  the  skins  a 
velvety  feel  to  add  to  the  liquor  a  pailful  of  dissolved  soft 
soap  or  potash  soap.  The  complaint  most  commonly  made 
against  skins  tanned  in  alum  and  salt  is  that  they  become 
moist  and  heavy  on  a  wet  day.  For  this  reason  bark 
tanned  skins  are  often  preferred  to  alum  tanned  as  they  are 
not  readily  affected  by  moisture. 

The  skins  should  be  hauled  out  of  the  liquor  every  day 
until  the  liquor  has  struck  through  from  flesh  to  grain. 
Thorough  tanning  is  necessary  if  soft  tough  skins  are 
wanted.  When  the  tanning  is  completed  the  pelts  should 
be  well  drained  and  then  oiled.  Neatsfoot  oil  is  good,  but 
somewhat  costly  for  the  work,  and  cheap  mineral  oil  is  al- 
most as  good  as  neatsfoot.  In  place  of  the  hemlock  extract 
any  other  extract  may  be  used,  also  combinations  of  differ- 
ent extracts.  Gambler  is  a  good  tanning  material  for  this 
class  of  goods.  The  process  may  be  used  as  a  two-bath 
process,  by  first  applying  the  alum  and  salt,  and  then  the 
tan  liquor.  Skins  tanned  by  any  of  these  processes  are 
readily  colored  any  dark  shade  or  black.  To  get  the  wool 
clean  and  free  from  grease  so  that  it  will  readily  take  the 
color,  requires  a  thorough  washing  and  cleansing.  A  de- 
sirable shade  of  brown  results  when  the  wool  is  thoroughly 
washed  and  dried  and  finished  without  coloring. 

The  first  step  is  to  rinse  the  skins  to  get  rid  of  particles 
of  dirt  and  dust.  The  scouring  suds  may  be  very  strong 
and  well  and  evenly  rubbed  into  the  wool  to  get  even  re- 
sults. The  effect  of  this  scouring  is  to  leave  the  wool  a  dark 
brown  color.  When  this  is  considered  too  dark  and  a  light 
golden  color  is  wanted,  the  pelts  after  scouring,  are  thor- 
oughly washed  with  clean  water  to  get  rid  of  suds,  and 
then  treated  to  a  sour  liquor  made  of  water  and  sulphuric 
acid.  Enough  acid  is  required  to  give  the  liquor  a  sharp, 
sour  taste.  This  liquor  is  spread  evenly  over  the  skin  until 
all  parts  of  the  wool  come  in  contact  with  it,  after  which  the 
wool  is  again  rinsed  off  and  wrung  or  pressed  and  the  pelts 
hung  up  and  dried  again. 


64 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


To  bleach  the  luool  on  alum-tanned  sheepskins. 
For  this  purpose  nothing  is  better  than  brimstone.  The 
pelts  to  be  bleached  must  be  uniformly  moist,  wool  and  skin, 
and  hung  on  sticks  in  a  large  vat  or  hogshead.  In  the 
bottom  of  the  vat  or  hogshead,  the  brimstone  is  placed  in  a 
kettle.  Live  coals  are  required  to  start  the  burning  of  the 
brimstone.  The  vat  or  hogshead  should  be  kept  covered 
during  the  operation  to  keep  the  smoke  in.  If  the  first 
operation  does  not  bleach  sufficiently  white,  the  w^ork  may 
be  done  a  second  time.  A  caution  to  be  observed  is  not  to 
allow  the  skins  to  come  too  close  to  the  fire. 

A  very  simple  and  effective  method  of  removing  the  grease  from 

sheep  pelts 

Is  carried  out  as  follows :  When  the  pelts  are  taken  from 
the  tanning  liquor  of  alum  and  salt  and  before  they  have 
been  dried  out,  they  are  tacked  out  upon  boards  and  plas- 
tered upon  the  flesh  side  with  a  paste  of  whiting.  The 
whiting  is  simply  mixed  with  water  until  a  thick  paste 
results  and  this  is  spread  evenly  over  the  skin.  As  the 
skin  dries  the  whiting  draws  out  the  grease,  w^hich 
shows  a  dark  leaden  color  through  the  paste.  The  coat  of 
plaster  should  be  scraped  off  and  removed  again  and  again 
until  all  the  grease  is  fully  absorbed.  It  is  sometimes  nec- 
essary to  give  five  and  even  six  applications  of  the  paste 
before  the  grease  is  entirely  removed.  After  becoming  free 
from  the  grease,  wash  ofi"  the  paste  and  apply  to  the  flesh  a 
mixture  of  two  parts  alum  and  three  parts  common  salt. 
This  may  be  in  strong  liquid  form  and  should  be  applied 
two  or  three  times.  Then  dry  the  pelts  out  and  work  them 
soft. 

Woolskins  are  also  very  cheaply  tanned  in  the  following 
mariner  : 

First  the  sheep  pelt  should  be  washed  or  soaked  for  a  few 
hours  in  clean  w^ater,  preferably  warm,  and  then  fleshed, 
by  which  all  fleshy  particles  are  removed  from  the  inner  or 


WOOLSKINS. 


65 


flesh  side  and  the  loose  dirt  removed  from  the  wool  side. 
Next  the  pelt  should  be  washed  in  warm  soapsuds.  For 
this  the  old-fashioned  soft  soap  made  from  wood  ashes  is 
best,  although  any  soap  may  be  used.  Rub  the  pelt  either 
by  hand  in  the  soap  suds  or  on  a  washboard.  As  soon  as 
the  pelt  is  clean  rinse  it  in  clean  water,  and  press  out  as 
much  of  the  water  as  possible.  Then  the  following  mixture 
should  be  prepared  and  applied  to  the  flesh  side.  One- 
fourth  ounce  each  of  common  salt  and  ground  alum,  and 
one-half  ounce  of  borax  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  hot  water. 
When  sufficiently  cool  to  work  with  the  hands,  add  enough 
rye  meal  to  make  a  thick  paste.  Spread  the  mixture  on 
the  flesh  side,  fold  the  pelt  and  let  it  lie  for  two  weeks  in  a 
cool,  moist  place.  Then  wash  the  pelt  in  warm  water  so  as 
to  remove  the  paste.  The  pelt  may  now  be  dyed  any  shade 
or  left  the  natural  color,  and  when  nearl}^  dry  the  flesh  side 
should  be  scraped  with  a  dull  knife  and  the  skin  worked 
until  soft  and  pliable.    Comb  the  wool  when  it  is  dry. 

Another  method  somewhat  speedier 
And  just  as  reliable  as  the  foregoing  is  the  following :  For 
one  sheepskin  one  pound  of  salt,  half  pound  of  alum,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  saltpetre.  Soak  the  skin  in  clean  water 
and  then  spread  it  out  on  a  smooth  surface.  Rub  the  mix- 
ture well  into  the  flesh  side,  turn  the  head  to  the  tail,  leav- 
ing the  wool  side  out,  roll  smoothly  and  let  it  lie  for  four  or 
five  days.  Then  scrape  the  flesh  and  make  it  clean  and 
wash  the  wool  carefully  with  soapsuds  so  as  to  remove  all 
grease  and  fatty  matter.  Work  the  pelt  thoroughly  while 
it  is  drying  and  it  will  finish  up  soft  and  pliable.  The 
solution  of  salt  and  alum  may  also  be  made  up  in  a  tub  or 
vat  and  the  pelts  left  therein  with  occasional  stirring  for 
about  two  days,  then  dried  out. 

WOOL-WASHING  SOAP. 

A  good  soap,  useful  in  washing  wool  and  freeing  it 
5 


66 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


of  grease,  can  be  best  prepared  from  olive  and  cochin 
cocoanut  oils.  Seventeen  hundred  and  sixty  pounds  of 
olive  oil  are  boiled  to  a  grain  with  caustic  soda  lye.  After 
the  soap  has  separated  and  the  lye  has  been  drawn  off,  nine- 
teen hundred  and  sixty  pounds  of  potash  solution  of  20°  B^. 
are  added  and  allowed  to  boil  a  little.  Now  four  hundred 
and  forty  pounds  of  cochin  oil  are  added,  and  when  well 
taken  up  the  same  quantity  of  potash  solution  of  20°  Be.  is 
gradually  added  as  the  soap  can  take  it  up. 

A  cheaper  and  less  valuable  soap  commonly  used  for 
washing  wool  is  also  easy  to  prepare.  Seventeen  hundred 
and  sixty  pounds  of  elaine  and  four  hundred  and  forty 
pounds  of  tallow  are  boiled  to  a  grain,  the  precise  method 
of  boiling  being  immaterial  provided  a  good  firm  grain  is 
obtained.  In  another  kettle  a  soda  solution  is  prepared 
of  30°  Be.  Now  take  220  pounds  of  this  soda  solution, 
place  it  in  a  shallow  kettle  with  440  pounds  of  the  grain 
soap,  stir  well  and  then  add,  with  constant  stirring,  220 
pounds  of  dry  soda.  In  this  way  a  thick  paste  is  obtained, 
which  is  allowed  to  cool  in  the  pan  and  is  removed  after 
fortj^-eight  hours  with  a  chisel.  This  is  broken  up  into 
small  pieces  of  the  size  of  an  egg  and  is  ready  for  use. 

This  is  also  a  very  satisfactory  method  of  tanning  sheepsJcins 
ivith  wool  on,  shearlings,  etc. 

The  skins  should  be  well  soaked  in  water  and  then 
fleshed.  They  are  then  laid  on  a  table,  flesh  side  down, 
and  the  wool  washed  thoroughly  with  a  strong  solution 
of  soap  and  soda.  When  the  wool  is  free  from  grease  it  is 
rinsed  in  pure  warm  water  until  it  is  perfectly  clean.  The 
tanning  is  then  proceeded  with  by  putting  the  skins  into  a 
tub  and  covering  them  with  alum  liquor,  keeping  them 
well  stirred  about  so  that  the  alum  can  penetrate  every 
portion.  For  this  from  one  to  two  days  are  required,  the 
strength  of  the  liquor  being  increased  each  ten  or  twelve 
hours.    For  this  liquor  a  stock  solution  is  first  prepared  by 


WOOLSKINS. 


67 


dissolving  thirty-three  pounds  of  alum  in  sixty-five  gallons 
of  water  and  then  adding  about  twenty  pounds  of  salt. 
For  the  bath,  as  much  of  the  alum  and  salt  solution  is 
used  as  will  give  the  liquor  a  sharp  salty  taste.  The  exact 
quantity  is  a  matter  of  small  importance.  The  skins 
should  be  given  plenty  of  room  and  not  be  crowded  into 
the  tub.  When  fully  tanned  they  are  laid  over  a  beam 
and  allowed  to  drain  for  some  hours.  When  sufficiently 
dry  they  are  laid  in  piles  on  a  table,  flesh  side  up,  and  are 
brushed  over  lightly  with  a  fat-liquor,  consisting  of  soap 
and  oil,  or  soap  and  grease.  If  the  skins  are  to  be  white 
they  are  hung  in  a  tight  chamber,  or  hogshead,  and 
bleached  with  sulphur,  and  are  then  hung  up  and  dried 
out.  If  they  are  to  be  dyed,  aniline  colors  should  be  used, 
but  the  dye  must  be  applied  before  the  fat-liquoring.  The 
most  important  requisite  in  dyeing  the  wool  is  that  it 
should  be  free  from  grease.  This  may  be  accomplished  by 
scouring  the  wool  in  a  mixture  of  soft  soap  and  water,  to 
which  a  little  soda  has  been  added.  The  soda  ash  has  a 
tendency  of  making  the  wool  somewhat  harsh,  but  the 
addition  of  a  little  salt  will  obviate  this  and  also  save  the 
workman's  hands  from  becoming  sore  in  the  liquor.  Some 
bleaching  effect  is  also  obtained  from  the  use  of  the  salt. 
The  wool  must  be  thoroughly  washed  free  from  all  the 
soap. 

The  best  way  to  scour  the  alumed  pelts 

Is  on  a  table.  In  this  way  the  flesh  side  is  protected  some- 
what from  the  water,  and  none  of  the  alum  is  washed  out. 
The  wool  is  well  scoured  with  the  soap  solution  until  every 
part  is  thoroughly  cleansed,  then  it  is  thoroughly  washed 
in  clear  water.  When  the  wool  is  to  be  dyed  black  or  dark 
colors  it  is  not  necessary  that  it  should  be  perfectly  clean. 
When  light  colors  are  wanted  the  wool  should  be  bleached 
with  sulphur  fumes.  A  seal  brown  may  be  obtained  with 
gambler,  the  skins  being  left  in  the  liquor  until  they  acquire 


68 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  desired  shade.  Then  they  are  passed  through  a  solu- 
tion of  bichromate  of  potash  and  then  rinsed  in  cold  water. 
They  are  then  dried  out,  worked  soft,  and  if  it  is  required 
the  flesh  side  is  smoothed  off  on  an  emery  wheel. 

To  accomplish  the  bleaching  of  sheep  pelts,  lambskins  and  goat- 
skins tanned  with  the  wool  and  hair  on, 
The  following  method  may  be  used  :  The  tanned  skins  are 
first  thoroughly  washed  in  warm  soapsuds,  and  then  rinsed 
off  in  clear  water.  Four  and  one-half  pounds  of  chloride  of 
lime  mixed  with  thorough  stirring  into  twenty-one  quarts 
of  water.  The  mixture  should  be  allowed  to  stand  until  it 
has  settled.  The  clear  liquor  is  then  drawn  off  into  a  solu- 
tion of  ten  and  one-half  quarts  of  water,  in  which  have 
been  dissolved  five  and  one-half  pounds  of  glauber  salt.  A 
precipitation  results  which  leaves  hypochlorite  of  soda  in 
solution.  The  clear  liquor,  which  should  be  quite  free 
from  lime,  is  then  drawn  off,  and  the  skins  immersed 
therein  until  they  are  thoroughly  bleached,  which  takes 
about  two  days.  When  they  are  sufficiently  bleached  the 
skins  should  be  washed  out,  and  then  washed  in  a  solution 
of  white  oil  soap  in  order  to  give  them  the  necessary  soft 
feel. 

Permanganate  of  potash  and  bisulphite  of  soda  may  also 
be  used  for  bleaching.  The  skins  are  washed  and  cleaned 
and  then  immersed  in  a  bath  of  permanganate  of  potash 
made  up  in  the  proportions  of  one  and  one-tenth  pounds  of 
the  potash  in  one  hundred  and  thirty  gallons  of  water 
heated  to  95°  F.  In  this  solution  the  skins  are  worked  for 
one  hour,  and  at  the  end  of  this  time  they  are  removed  and 
placed  without  rinsing  in  a  bath  of  bisulphite  of  soda,  made 
up  of  one-hundred  and  thirty  gallons  of  warm  water,  seven 
and  one-third  quarts  of  bisulphite  of  soda,  and  six  and  five- 
eighths  pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid.  In  this  liquor  they 
are  worked  until  they  are  sufficiently  bleached. 


CHAPTER  V. 


SHEEPSKINS. 
BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS  TANNING. 

Large  numbers  of  sheepskins  are  tanned  in  bark  and 
extract  liquors,  and  used  as  lining  material.  Various  tan- 
nages are  used  in  making  this  class  of  leather.  Hemlock 
is  largely  used,  also  combinations  of  hemlock  and  other 
tans.  When  a  combination  liquor  is  used,  one  extract 
supplements  the  other.  Palmetto  extract  makes  soft, 
tough  leather,  well  filled,  and  of  good  color.  Being  a  rapid 
tanner  it  works  well  with  slow  tannages.  A  good  method 
of  using  palmetto  extract  is  in  drums,  sheepskins  becoming 
thoroughly  tanned  with  it  inside  of  three  hours.  The 
coloring  of  the  skins  with  the  tannage  may  be  begun  in  a 
paddle  vat,  and  the  tanning  completed  in  a  drum.  A 
running  for  one  hour  in  a  paddle  vat  suffices  to  color  the 
skins  and  to  begin  the  tanning.  After  the  tanning  is  com- 
pleted the  skins  are  washed,  pressed,  shaved  and  finished 
either  with  or  without  coloring.  This  tannage  also  works 
well  with  a  chrome  process. 

When  pickled  skins  are  being  tanned  in  bark  or  extract 
liquors,  fairly  weak  liquors  are  used.  The  skins  are  left  in 
the  liquors  simply  long  enough  to  become  well  colored  and 
struck  through,  and  are  then  dried  out  and  finished.  In 
the  drying  of  this  class  of  leather  the  skins  are  usually 
tacked  on  boards  in  moist  condition  and  left  thereon  until 
they  are  dry. 

The  softness  of  the  leather  is  generally  produced  by  the 
nature  of  the  tannage,  and  the  smoothness  and  quality  of 
the  grain  by  the  methods  used  in  preparing  the  skins  for 
tanning. 

(69) 


70 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


A  dull  finish  is  obtained  by  ironing  or  rolling  the  leather 
before  it  is  quite  dry,  and  in  this  way  the  grain  is  laid  down 
smooth.  Hot  irons  are  used,  and  unless  the  workman  is 
careful  the  iron  may  be  too  hot  and  burn  the  leather. 
Vegetable  tanned  skins  cannot  stand  much  heat ;  the  grain 
becoming  very  brittle  when  too  much  is  used  and  they 
readily  crack  and  break  in  handling. 

A  combination  tannage 

Two-thirds  of  which  is  quebracho  liquor  and  one-third  hem- 
lock liquor  produces  very  good  leather.  The  length  of  time 
consumed  in  tanning  skins  in  this  tannage  is  very  short. 
The  leather  is  well  filled,  soft  and  of  good  texture,  while 
the  color  is  light  and  uniform,  and  more  satisfactory  than 
the  color  of  hemlock  tanned  leather  after  it  is  bleached. 
When  colored  leather  is  desired  the  tanned  skins  can  be 
easily  colored  any  shade  by  the  use  of  aniline  dyes. 

Very  excellent  leather  is  made  by  combining  a  chrome  and  a 
vegetable  tannage. 

Gambler  is  often  used  to  supplement  the  chrome  tannage, 
but  palmetto  extract  is  better.  The  skins  may  be  milled 
in  a  drum  in  palmetto  liquor  and  then  finished  up  in 
chrome,  or  they  may  be  retanned  in  palmetto  liquor  after 
the  chrome  process  is  completed.  The  palmetto  liquor 
serves  to  neutralize  any  acid  in  the  leather,  and  also  to 
serve  as  a  mordant  for  any  color  or  for  black.  In  applying 
this  process  to  a  lot  of  chrome-tanned  sheepskins  the  follow- 
ing proportions  may  be  used  :  For  one  thousand  pounds  of 
chrome  tanned  skins  one  gallon  of  palmetto  extract  and  a 
gill  of  glycerine  in  sufficient  warm  water  at  a  temperature  of 
90°  F.,  to  either  paddle  the  skins  in  or  to  drum  them  in  a  pin- 
mill  drum.  This  method  of  tanning  makes  the  leather 
more  solid  than  the  pure  chrome  tannage,  and  the  grain 
does  not  peel. 

For  light  colored  leather  it  is  always  best  for  the  tanner 


sheepsk:ins  :  bark,  extract  and  chamois.  71 

to  remove  the  acid  from  pickled  skins  before  tanning  them. 
While  the  skins  tan  readily  in  some  liquors  when  they  are 
full  of  acid,  for  leather  of  superior  quality,  fine  clear  grain 
and  good  color,  the  acid  should  be  removed  from  the  skins 
before  they  are  tanned.  A  drench  of  whiting  and  salt  may 
be  used  for  the  purpose,  also  a  drench  of  sour  bran  and 
salt.  The  pickled  skins  after  being  softened  in  salt  water 
may  also  be  given  the  bath  of  whiting  and  salt,  and  then 
left  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  liquor  of  bran  and  salt. 

Palmetto  extract  may  be  used  in  combination  with  que- 
bracho, also  with  hemlock ;  in  fact  it  w^orks  well  with  any 
tannage.  However,  the  combination  of  quebracho  and 
hemlock  is,  of  all  processes,  really  the  most  desirable.  For 
lining  purposes  the  skins  may  be  left  in  the  natural  color 
of  the  tannage,  and  when  colored  leather  is  wanted  they 
may  readily  be  colored  any  shade.  Sheepskins  tanned  by 
any  vegetable  process  or  combination  process  ftiay  be 
bleached  by  the  methods  described  in  another  part  of  this 
book. 

THE  COLORING  AND  FINISHING  OF  VEGETABLE  TANNED  SKINS. 

Sheepskins  that  have  been  tanned  in  a  vegetable  tannage 
such  as  bark,  sumac,  gambler  and  similar  tannages  are 
usually  dried  out  after  tanning  and  before  they  are  colored. 
When  they  are  to  be  colored  they  require  a  moistening  and 
washing  before  they  are  colored  in  order  to  remove  from 
them  all  dirt,  dust,  and  particles  of  tannin  that  have  not 
combined  with  the  leather.  At  the  same  time  the  washing 
serves  to  moisten  and  soften  the  skins  and  thus  to  put  them 
in  the  right  condition  to  receive  the  mordants  and  dyes. 
When  the  washing  is  properly  done  the  shades  are  made 
clear,  full  and  deep.  When  the  dried  skins  are  immersed 
in  the  dye  bath  without  sufficient  washing  many  defects 
will  be  noticed  in  the  finished  leather.  The  color  cannot 
penetrate  nor  combine  with  the  fibres  and  the  result  in  color- 
ing is  decidedly  unsatisfactory. 


72 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  dry  skins  may  be  moistened  in  a  tub  and  left  in 
piles  for  some  hours  until  they  have  become  sufficiently 
soft,  or  they  may  be  moistened  in  pin-mill  drums.  The 
water  used  for  this  work  should  be  soft  and  warm,  as 
such  water  has  much  greater  softening  and  cleansing  powers 
than  cold  or  hard  water.  A  safe  temperature  is  from  eighty- 
five  to  ninety -five  degrees.  To  some  extent  the  amount  of 
treatment  required  by  a  lot  of  skins  to  bring  them  into  the 
required  condition  depends  upon  the  character  of  the  skins 
and  the  nature  of  the  tannage.  Very  light  skins  that  have 
been  tanned  in  a  soft  tannage  require  very  little  treat- 
ment, but  very  careful  handling,  while  heavy  and  firmer 
tanned  skins  demand  a  much  more  thorough  preparation. 

The  use  of  hard  water 

Has  the  effect  of  causing  a  faded  and  dingy  appearance  to 
the  shades  of  color,  and  when  such  water  is  used  in  dis- 
solving aniline  dyes  it  often  happens  that  a  portion  of  the 
dyestuff"  settles  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  in  the  form  of  a 
soft  mass.  This  causes  imperfect  coloring.  It  is  also  im- 
perative that  the  water  be  clean  and  free  from  dirt  and 
other  foreign  substances.  The  evil  effects  of  hard  water 
may  be  prevented  and  such  water  rendered  suitable  for 
coloring  purposes  by  adding  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  acetic 
acid.  Borax  is  also  used  and  helps  in  giving  a  soft  feel  to 
the  leather.  The  quantity  of  borax  required  depends  upon 
the  condition  of  the  water,  but  as  a  general  thing  one-half 
pound  is  enough  for  one  hundred  gallons  of  water,  dissolved 
in  a  separate  vessel  and  poured  into  the  water  to  be  used 
for  coloring. 

A  very  important  element  that  is  often  overlooked  is 
cleanliness.  Every  vessel  or  utensil  used  should  be  per- 
fectly clean  and  free  from  foreign  matter.  A  very  small 
quantity  of  foreign  matter  causes  a  change  in  the  dyestufF, 
especially  when  aniline  colors  are  used.  When  brushes 
are  used  they  should  be  kept  clean  and  a  separate  brush 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  73 

used  for  each  liquor  used.  Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken 
in  this  particular.  All  tables  and  cloths  used  by  the  dyer 
should  be  kept  clean. 

Skins  that  have  acquired  a  dark  shade 
From  the  tannage  should  be  given  the  dark  shades  of  dye. 
When  lighter  shades  are  wanted  the  leather  must  be  toned 
down  or  bleached.  One  of  the  most  common  methods  is 
to  draw  the  leather  several  times  through  a  warm  sumac 
liquor,  or  they  may  be  left  in  such  liquor  several  hours  or 
drummed  in  it  in  a  drum.  Some  of  the  tannins  in  general 
use  contain  quantities  of  coloring  matter,  and  these  exert 
an  influence  upon  the  colors.  Sumac  contains  very  little 
coloring  matter,  and  is,  therefore,  commonly  used  in  tan- 
ning skins  intended  for  light  shades.  In  some  instances 
when  the  color  of  the  leather  is  dark  to  begin  with,  advan- 
tage may  be  taken  of  the  color  and  less  dye  materials  used. 

Lactic  acid  is  a  very  good  article  to  use  in  coloring  sheepskins. 

It  not  only  serves  the  purpose  of  cleaning  the  leather  of 
grease,  but  also  acts  as  a  mordant  w^hen  used  in  connection 
with  bichromate  of  potash.  In  fifty  gallons  of  warm  water 
dissolve  two  pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  one-half 
gallon  of  lactic  acid.  The  liquor  is  used  as  a  mordant  and 
as  a  striker.  On  light  colors  it  is  preferable  to  use  it  at  the 
end  of  the  dyeing  operation  as  a  striker  and  evener.  In  the 
case  of  dark  colors  such  as  chocolates,  browns,  dark  tans, 
etc.,  it  may  be  used  in  preparing  the  leather  for  the  colors. 
The  skins  should  be  uniformly  moistened  and  softened  with 
water,  and  then  milled  in  a  solution  of  lactic  acid,  about 
one  gallon  to  fifty  gallons  of  warm  water,  for  thirty  minutes. 
It  is  generally  necessary  to  w^ash  the  skins  off  in  warm 
water  before  coloring  when  the  basic  or  sweet  aniline  dyes 
are  used,  but  when  sour  anilines  are  used  no  washing  is  re- 
quired, the  skins  receiving  the  dye  immediately  after  the 
acid  treatment.  By  first  milling  the  skins  in  an  acid 
liquor,  dyers  are  enabled  to  get  clearer  and  more  uniform 


74 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


colors,  as  this  operation  not  only  clears  the  grain  of  greasy 
matter,  but  also  opens  it  up,  thus  allowing  deeper  penetra- 
tion of  the  dyestufF.  For  some  dark  colors  it  is  wise  to  use 
a  solution  of  the  acid  solution,  then  to  follow  it  with  the 
color  solution  and  to  strike  with  copperas. 

Sorting  the  skins. 
Before  the  work  of  coloring  is  begun,  the  skins  should  be 
sorted  according  to  texture  and  weight.  All  skins  of  firm 
and  dense  substance  should  be  sorted  out  from  the  loose, 
light  and  open-grained  skins,  and  each  class  colored  separ- 
ately. The  clear  and  fine-grained  skins  should  be  given 
the  fancy  shades,  and  the  skins  that  show  any  defects  or 
imperfections  given  the  dark  shades.  Some  small  defects 
that  might  not  appear  on  dark-colored  leather  are  often 
plainly  seen  on  light  shades.  The  more  serious  the  defect 
the  darker  should  be  the  shade  given. 

Applying  the  dye  and  finishing  the  leather. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  sufficient  number  of  skins 
tanned  and  dried  ahead,  so  that  they  can  lie  in  the  dry 
state  some  time  before  they  are  colored.  The  longer  they 
lie  in  the  dry  state  the  better  will  be  the  final  result.  After 
the  coloring  process  is  finished,  the  skins  should  be  finished 
as  soon  as  possible.  The  finishing  processes  frequently 
change  the  shade  of  the  leather,  and  it  is  therefore  very  im- 
portant that  the  dyer  knows  just  how  much  dye  a  lot  of 
skins  need  in  order  for  them  to  come  through  the -right 
shade.  Various  methods  may  be  employed.  The  leather 
may  be  brush-dyed  on  tables,  passed  through  dye-boxes  or 
treated  in  drums.  When  the  coloring  is  done  on  tables, 
the  skins  are  spread  out  grain  side  up  and  struck  out  with 
a  slicker  so  that  they  lie  perfectly  smooth.  After  the  right 
shade  is  obtained  the  leather  is  washed  off  and  dried  out. 
Soft  sponges  fastened  to  handles  may  be  used  instead  of 
brushes.  When  the  coloring  is  done  in  paddle-vats  the 
skins  are  paddled  for  twenty  minutes  in  each  of  the  liquors 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  75 

used,  enough  of  each  being  used  to  enable  the  skins  to  float 
and  turn  in  the  liquor.  More  water  is  of  course  required,  and 
more  time  consumed  by  this  method  than  when  drums  are 
used.  When  the  leather  is  dyed  in  drums  the  skins  should 
first  be  drummed  in  the  clearing  or  mordanting  liquor  and 
then  for  the  same  length  of  time  in  the  color  and  striking 
liquors,  after  which  they  are  washed  off"  and  finished.  The 
leather  should  be  dried  out  in  a  darkened  room.  When  it 
is  hung  in  a  strong  light  the  color  frequently  fades.  The 
temperature  of  the  room  should  be  maintained  at  a  uniform 
degree,  and  the  leather  dried  rapidly,  but  not  so  rapidly  as 
to  parch  it.  Many  of  the  troubles  encountered  by  dyers  in 
coloring  leathers  are  the  result  of  improper  methods  of 
handling  the  skins  in  the  processes  that  come  before  the 
coloring.  Much  can  be  gained  by  giving  these  processes 
close  and  careful  attention. 

Before  coloring  the  leather  with  aniline  dyes 

It  is  good  practice,  after  it  has  been  moistened  and  washed, 
to  drum  it  in  a  warm  sumac  liquor.  This  serves  to  freshen 
up  the  stock  and  for  it  readily  to  receive  the  dye  liquor.  For 
medium  and  large  sheepskins  it  usually  requires  about  four 
ounces  of  the  liquid  extract  of  sumac  in  sufficient  water  to 
cover  the  skins.  In  this  liquor  the  skins  are  drummed  for 
tw^enty  minutes.  Then  is  applied  to  the  same  bath  two 
ounces  per  dozen  of  antimonine  and  the  drumming  con- 
tinued for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  longer.  After  this  the 
skins  are  rinsed  off"  in  w^arm  water  and  the  coloring  bath 
prepared.  From  two  to  three  ounces  of  aniline  dye  are 
usually  required  for  each  dozen  skins  at  a  temperature  of 
one  hundred  degrees.  After  coloring  the  leather  is  washed 
off"  and  dried  out.  The  use  of  the  antimonine  is  for  the 
purpose  of  cleaning  the  grain  of  the  leather,  overcoming 
the  uncombined  tannin  and  fixing  the  dye  upon  the  fibre, 
so  that  nothing  further  is  needed  to  set  the  colors.  In  place 
of  sumac,  fustic  may  be  used  when  it  is  considered  necessary 


76 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


to  use  a  mordant.  Usually,  however,  this  class  of  leather, 
that  is  to  say  bark  and  extract  tanned  sheepskins, 
requires  no  mordant,  as  the  tannic  acid  in  the  tannage 
serves  the  purpose  of  a  mordant.  Vegetable-tanned  skins 
are  colored  a  large  variety  of  shades. 

Desirable  shades. 
Some  of  the  most  desirable  of  the  shades  are  ox-blood  or 
wine  color,  chocolate,  tans,  browns  and  greens.  For  the 
ox -blood  shade  about  three  ounces  of  the  aniline  amaranth, 
3/R,  for  each  dozen  skins  are  used.  For  a  desirable  choco- 
late shade,  for  each  dozen  skins  from  two  and  one-half  to 
three  ounces  of  aniline  chocolate  brown  270,  produces  the 
right  results.  The  leather  is  first  cleared  of  grease  and 
then  the  dye  applied.  The  drum  method  is  usually  pre- 
ferred as  it  produces  the  most  uniform  coloring.  By  mix- 
ing an  amaranth  or  ox-blood  shade  with  a  chocolate- 
brown,  a  dark  and  very  desirable  shade  of  ox-blood  is 
produced.  The  temperature  of  the  drum  should  be  main- 
tained during  the  process  of  coloring  at  ninety  to  one 
hundred  degrees  Fah.  The  dyes  should  be  thoroughly 
boiled  and  then  cooled  down  to  the  right  temperature 
before  they  are  used.  To  insure  even  coloring  the  skins 
must  be  kept  in  motion  while  the  color  solution  is  being 
added  to  them. 

For  a  desirable  shade  of  green 
Apply  to  the  skins,  after  they  have  been  washed  and  soft- 
ened, two  ounces  of  antimonine  for  each  dozen  skins,  and 
follow  this  with  three  ounces  of  leather  green,  or  of  dark 
green,  M,  and  one  ounce  of  amaranth.  Bark  and  gambier- 
tanned  skins  should  be  freshened  up  in  sumac  before  the 
antimonine  is  added.  The  skins  may  also  be  colored  by 
being  drummed  in  a  solution  of  bichromate  of  potash,  made 
up  of  one  ounce  of  potash  in  three  gallons  of  warm  water 
for  each  dozen  skins,  and  this  is  followed  by  the  aniline 
dye.    Finally,  there  are  added  to  the  skins  one  ounce 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  77 

of  bichromate  of  potash  and  one-half  ounce  copperas,  and 
the  skins  are  drummed  fifteen  minutes  longer. 

In  dyeing  hark  tanned  leather  black 
Logwood  is  generally  used  in  connection  with  an  iron 
liquor  or  striker.  To  fifty  gallons  of  water  about  five 
pounds  of  logwood  product  in  powder  form  and  one  pound 
of  sal  soda  are  added  and  boiled.  The  moistened  skins 
may  be  drummed  in  this  liquor  until  the  color  is  well  taken 
up,  then  they  are  spread  upon  a  table  and  the  striker  ap- 
plied to  the  grain.  A  good  striker  may  be  made  of  fifteen 
pounds  of  copperas  and  five  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  boiled  in 
fifty  gallons  of  water.  It  is  not  usually  necessary  to  clear 
the  grain  of  vegetable-tanned  sheepskins  before  they  are 
blacked,  as  the  sal  soda  serves  to  carry  the  dye  into  the 
leather.  A  good  method  to  employ  in  drying  out  the  skins 
is  to  tack  them  upon  boards  in  the  moist  condition  and  to 
leave  them  until  they  have  become  dry.  As  much  as  pos- 
sible of  the  natural  grease  should  be  gotten  rid  of.  This  is 
usually  accomplished  by  pressing  the  raw  skins  in  a 
hydraulic  press  or  by  treatment  with  naphtha  after  liming. 
Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  again  degrease  the  skins  after 
they  have  been  tanned  in  a  process  of  naphtha. 

A  good  black 

On  bark  and  extract  tanned  sheepskins  can  be  obtained  by 
the  use  of  a  liquor  composed  of  logwood  and  fustic  extracts, 
a  very  small  quantity  of  the  latter  being  sufficient  to  inten- 
sify the  logwood  black.  The  leather  is  first  moistened  with 
water  until  it  is  uniformly  soft  and  moist ;  then  it  is  treated 
to  the  logwood  and  fustic  liquor,  which  should  be  applied 
warm  and  well  brushed  into  the  grain.  This  is  followed 
by  an  application  of  copperas  and  blue  vitriol  liquor,  or  an 
iron  or  vinegar  striker.  The  leather  is  given  two  coats 
of  the  liquors  and  is  then  washed  off".  To  increase  the 
softness  of  the  leather  the  skins,  after  dyeing,  are  rubbed 
over  with  oil,  or  with  a  mixture  of  egg-yolk  and  glycerine. 


78 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


SKIVERS. 

A  skiver  is  the  grain  side  of  a  split  sheepskin.  In  mak- 
ing this  class  of  leather,  the  skins  are  split  in  the  beam 
house,  and  the  flesh  or  inner  side  is  worked  into  glove  or 
chamois  leather,  and  the  grain  side  is  tanned  in  bark,  ex- 
tract or  alum  processes  and  used  for  a  large  variety  of  pur- 
poses— principally  in  the  manufacture  of  leather  goods  such 
as  pocket  books,  belts  and  suspenders,  as  trimmings  and 
linings.  Skivers  are  also  used  in  large  quantities  as  hat  or 
sweat  bands.  Being  of  very  light  substance,  and  possessing 
very  little  strength  of  fibre,  a  great  deal  of  care  is  required 
in  handling  this  class  of  goods  during  the  processes  of  tan- 
ning, coloring  and  finishing. 

The  splitting  is  usually  done  after  the  skins  have  been 
limed.  On  account  of  the  fact  that  skivers  are  often  finished 
in  very  light  and  fancy  colors,  it  is  highly  important  that 
the  liming,  drenching  and  other  beam  house  processes  are 
done  in  a  very  thorough  and  cleanly  manner,  in  order  to 
keep  the  stock  clean  and  free  from  shaded  or  mottled  grain. 

After  the  splitting  has  been  done  the  grains  receive  a 
thorough  drenching  in  a  bran  drench.  This,  of  course,  is 
for  the  purpose  of  washing  out  the  lime  and  bringing  the 
grains  into  the  right  condition  for  pickling  and  tanning. 

A  good  drench 

Suitable  for  this  class  of  goods  may  be  made  of  bran  as  fol- 
lows :  One-half  of  a  barrel  of  bran  is  mixed  into  enough 
water  to  make  a  thick  mush.  This  is  covered  up  and  let 
stand  for  forty-eight  hours,  until  it  has  become  thoroughly 
sour.  Then  it  is  poured  into  the  tub  or  vat  to  be  used  for 
the  work  and  mixed  with  enough  warm  water  to  cover  the 
number  of  skins.  This  quantity  of  bran  will  answer  for 
six  hundred  skivers.  To  the  drench  should  be  added  three 
pints  of  sulphuric  acid  and  three  pecks  of  common  salt,  and 
the  prepared  drench  heated  to  about  ninety  degrees.  The 
skivers  are  stirred  carefully  about  in  this  drench  for  a 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  79 

sufficient  length  of  time  to  thoroughly  cleanse  them  of  the 
lime.  Two  or  three  hours  is  usually  sufficient.  After 
drenching  for  this  length  of  time  the  grains  will  be  found 
to  be  clean  and  free  from  dirt  and  lime.  For  light  colors 
it  is  usually  a  good  plan  to  wash  them  again  before  pickling 
them,  in  order  to  still  further  cleanse  them  ;  but  in  many 
instances  this  is  not  necessary,  the  pickling  process  serving 
to  clean  and  bleach  them.  The  bran  should  be  carefully 
selected,  as  bran  that  has  been  once  damp  is  unsuited 
for  the  purpose.  Another  method  of  using  the  bran  drench 
is  to  allow  the  fermentation  to  take  place  while  the 
skins  are  in  the  liquor.  The  same  quantity  of  bran  is  used 
as  when  the  fermentation  takes  place  before  it  is  used. 
About  one-half  of  the  bran  is  added  to  the  warm  water  in 
the  vat,  and  while  it  is  being  well  stirred,  one-half  of  the 
grains  are  put  in,  then  the  balance  of  the  bran  is  added, 
and  then  the  remaining  skins.  It  takes  some  time  for  the 
fermentation  to  commence ;  and  as  the  drench  sours  the 
skivers  are  forced  up  on  the  top  of  the  liquor.  They  need 
to  be  kept  down  until  they  have  become  perfectly  soft  and 
clean,  after  which  the}^  may  be  washed  in  warm  water  and 
pickled.  A  good  pickle  for  two  hundred  grains  may  be 
made  of  two  and  one-half  quarts  of  acid,  fifty  or  sixty 
pounds  of  salt  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  w^ater.  The 
grains  should  be  stirred  carefully  in  this  liquor  for  about 
one  hour,  and  then  removed,  and  can  then  be  kept  indefi- 
nitely without  spoiling.  They  may  also  be  tanned  without 
pickling. 

Various  materials  are  used  in  tanning  skivers. 

Any  tannage  that  works  well  upon  sheepskins  may  be 
used.  Sumac  is,  perhaps,  the  most  frequently  used.  Bark 
tannages  are  also  employed,  also  alum  and  chrome  processes, 
the  last  two  methods  imparting  more  strength  to  the  fibres 
than  either  bark  or  sumac.  During  the  tanning  the  stock 
must  be  handled  carefully  to  prevent  tearing.    By  suspend- 


80 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


ing  the  skivers  in  the  liquor,  all  danger  of  tearing  is  obvi- 
ated, a  smooth  colored  grain  is  assured  and  a  very  uniform 
tannage  results. 

For  a  common  grade  of  leather 

Pickled  skins  may  be  tanned  in  hemlock  liquors.  Very 
little  tanning  is  necessary,  getting  the  stock  well  colored 
and  struck  through  is  all  that  is  required.    Sumac  liquors 
are  usually  made  up  warm  and  either  the  extract  of  sumac 
or  the  sumac  leaves  may  be  used.    The  tanning  consumes 
but  a  few  hours,  and  when  completed,  the  skins  are  washed 
off  in  water  to  remove  surplus  sumac,  pressed  and  dried 
out.    Sumac  is  so  liable  to  ferment  that  a  new  liquor  should 
be  used  for  each  lot  of  grains.    When  alum  and  salt  are 
used,  or  a  chrome  process,  the  tanning  is  completed  in  less 
than  one  hour,  when  a  drum  is  used,  this  method  of  tanning 
being  very  liable  to  tear  the  stock  seriously,  tanning  in 
vats  is  better.    Chrome-tanned  skins  must  be  colored  before 
they  are  dried  out.    Upon  coming  from  the  tanning  liquors 
they  should  be  washed  and  prepared  for  coloring  by  being 
given  a  sumac  bath.    A  white  soft  leather  is  made  by  tak- 
ing the  skins  from  the  sumac  bath  and  drying  them  out 
without  coloring.    The  sumac  makes  an  excellent  mordant 
for  any  shade  of  color. 

Sumac-tanned  skins,  after  drying  out,  are  moistened  and 
colored.  They  are  usually  box-colored,  that  is,  dyed  in 
trays  or  dye  boxes.  They  are  folded  lengthwise  through 
the  center  and  dipped  in  the  color  solution  until  the  de- 
sired shade  is  obtained,  then  the  color  is  set  by  the  applica- 
tion of  a  weak  solution  of  bichromate  of  potash,  the  skins 
washed  off  and  dried  out  again.  Chrome-tanned  skins  are 
colored  in  the  same  way,  the  only  difference  being  that 
they  are  not  dried  out  at  all  until  they  have  been  colored. 
In  the  working  of  the  stock  after  drying  great  care  is  nec- 
essary to  prevent  tearing.  The  skins  being  hard  and  hav- 
ing shrunk  in  dyeing,  must  be  moistened  and  left  in  piles 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  81 

for  a  few  hours.  Then  they  are  crutched,  and  as  much  of 
the  pulling  and  working  as  can  be  done  by  hand  should  be 
done  in  this  way,  as  the  skins  stand  very  little  rough  usage. 

Skivers  are  finished  in  numerous  ways. 

They  are  glazed  smooth,  finished  in  dull,  and  also  glazed 
and  by  use  of  embossing  machines  are  finished  into  imita- 
tions of  alligator,  seal  and  pigskin.  The  rolls  used  for  em- 
bossing are  made  of  steel,  upon  which  the  desired  figures 
are  cut ;  the  skins  are  passed  through  the  machine  and 
come  through  with  the  figure  wanted  upon  them.  By  the 
use  of  aniline  and  sulfamine  dyes  and  the  embossing 
machine  many  beautiful  and  novel  effects  are  produced. 
Aniline  dyes  have  a  special  value  for  the  maker  of  this  class 
of  leather,  because  of  their  brilliancy  and  beauty  and  be- 
cause of  the  almost  unlimited  number  and  variety  of  shades 
that  can  be  produced  with  them.  Many  new  shades  can 
be  obtained  by  a  combination  of  two  or  more  dyes.  Upon 
sumac  tanned  skins,  and  upon  skins  treated  with  sumac  as 
a  mordant,  aniline  dyes  produce  splendid  results,  being 
rapidly  absorbed  by  the  leather.  What  has  been  written 
about  aniline  dyes  applies  equally  well  to  sulfamine  dyes. 

A  good  process  of  tanning. 

Perhaps  as  good  a  process  of  tanning  as  the  tanner  of 
skins  can  use  is  a  mixture  of  quebracho  and  hemlock  ex- 
tracts, made  up  of  two-thirds  quebracho  and  one-third  hem- 
lock. This  tannage  produces  a  very  light  color  that  is 
uniform  and  clear.  The  skins  tanned  in  this  way  may  be 
colored  any  fancy  shade  desired,  and  they  may  also  be 
bleached  by  the  methods  of  bleaching  described  further  on. 
For  most  purposes,  however,  skins  tanned  in  the  combina- 
tion of  quebracho  and  hemlock  require  no  bleaching,  as  the 
color  produced  by  the  tannage  is  sufficiently  light  and 
uniform. 
6 


82 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


CHAMOIS  LEATHER. 

Chamois  leather  at  the  present  time  is  made  ahiiost  ex- 
chisively  from  sheepskins.  The  leather  is  produced  by  the 
action  of  oil  upon  the  raw  skins,  and  is  distinguished  from 
all  other  classes  of  leather  by  remarkable  softness  and  open 
texture.  In  the  making  of  this  leather  the  wool  is  removed 
from  the  pelts  in  the  usual  way,  then  the  skins  are  limed 
long  and  thoroughly  in  order  to  make  them  very  soft  and 
elastic.  The  skins  are  then  split  on  a  machine  adapted  to 
the  work,  the  grain  being  tanned  and  finished  into  fancy 
leather,  while  the  flesh  side  is  oil-tanned  into  chamois 
leather.  After  splitting,  the  fleshes  receive  a  further  liming 
in  order  to  increase  their  softness  and  porosity.  Old  lime 
liquors,  provided  they  are  kept  clean,  produce  the  best  re- 
sults, as  they  make  the  fibres  of  the  skins  very  soft  and 
silky  without  the  hardness  that  comes  from  the  use  of  new, 
fresh  limes. 

Removing  the  lime. 

To  remove  the  lime  from  the  skins  they  are  subjected  to 
different  processes.  In  some  instances  they  are  bated  with 
manures  and  then  given  a  bran  drench,  which  leaves  them 
perfectly  clean  and  very  soft.  Some  manufacturers  remove 
the  lime  by  thorough  washing  and  without  subjecting  the 
skins  to  a  fermented  bate  at  all.  This  method  makes  the 
leather  more  durable  than  when  a  bating  process  is  used. 
It  is  very  important  that  all  the  lime  be  gotten  rid  of  before 
the  skins  are  treated  with  oil. 

Treatment  of  the  skins. 

Before  the  skins  are  tanned  they  are  pressed  in  a  hy- 
draulic press  in  order  to  get  rid  of  all  surplus  water  and  to 
make  the  skins  as  dry  as  possible.  They  are  then  given  a 
thorough  beating  in  machinery  especiall}^  constructed  for 
the  purpose,  in  order  to  soften  them,  after  which  they  are 
sprinkled  with  cod-liver  oil  and  are  again  beaten  in  order 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  83 

to  force  the  oil  into  the  leather.  The  best  grade  of  New- 
foundland cod  oil  is  considered  the  best  for  the  purpose. 
The  process  of  oiling  the  skins  and  beating  them  is  repeated 
two  or  three  times,  or  until  they  have  lost  their  original 
smell  of  lime  and  have  acquired  a  mustard  color.  After 
the  oiling  and  beating  process  is  completed  the  skins  are 
made  to  undergo  a  process  of  heating.  By  this  process  the 
oxidation  of  the  oil  which  commenced  during  the  previous 
process  is  completed  by  the  fermentation  that  results,  in  the 
skins.  The  heat  is  generated  spontaneously.  The  skins 
must  be  watched  very  closely  and  frequently  turned  over. 
When  the  heat  rises  to  a  high  temperature  the  leather  is 
seriously  damaged.  The  heat  that  is  generated  destroys  all 
organic  matter  in  the  skins.  The  highest  temperature 
allowable  is  140  degrees  F.  This  heating  process  is  a  most 
delicate  operation,  and  upon  its  being  properly  done  de- 
pends the  success  of  the  leather.  When  insufficient  heat  is 
generated  the  leather  rots,  when  too  much  heat  is  produced 
it  becomes  dissolved.  When  the  fermentation  ceases,  and 
the  skins  are  no  longer  susceptible  to  heating,  they  are 
treated  in  order  to  remove  the  oil.  This  is  done  by  wash- 
ing the  skins  in  hot  water  and  then  pressing  them  under 
a  hydraulic  press.  The  grease  that  is  squeezed  out  in  this 
way  is  degras,  an  article  largely  used  by  tanners.  The  oil 
may  also  be  removed  by  washing  the  skins  in  a  solution 
of  soda  ash,  which  causes  the  grease  remaining  to  saponify. 
This  saponified  oil  is  then  neutralized  with  sulphuric  acid 
and  forms  the  oil  known  as  sod  oil.  A  certain  percentage 
of  the  oil  should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  skins  so  as  to 
give  them  softness. 

The  finishing  processes  consist  of  drying,  staking,  and 
smoothing  down  all  unevenness  on  the  surface.  The  skins 
may  be  bleached  by  being  sprinkled  with  water  and  exposed 
to  the  sun,  or  by  treatment  with  a  weak  solution  of  perman- 
ganate of  potash,  followed  by  a  treatment  with  diluted  sul- 
phuric acid,  or  the  leather  may  be  treated  with  sulphurous 


84 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


acid  in  the  form  of  gas.  Methods  of  treating  the  skins 
vary.  In  some  instances  the  skins,  instead  of  being  laid  in 
piles  to  ferment,  are  hung  up  in  warm  ovens,  which  is  less 
dangerous  and  produces  a  better  color.  Very  soft,  tough 
leather  having  many  of  the  characteristics  of  chamois 
leather  is  made  from  fleshers  in  chrome  tanning.  The 
skins  may  be  tanned  in  the  usual  way  and  then  very 
heavily  fat-liquored  with  emulsions  of  oil,  egg-yolk  and 
soap,  or  of  oil  and  degras.  By  first  treating  the  fleshers  to 
a  tawing  paste  of  alum,  salt,  flour  and  egg-yolk,  made  up 
in  the  proportions  of  nine  pounds  of  alum,  four  pounds 
of  salt,  twenty  pounds  of  wheat  flour,  and  twelve  pounds 
of  egg-yolk,  for  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  drum- 
ming the  skins  in  this  liquor  in  a  drum  at  a  temperature 
of  ninety  degrees  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  drying  them 
out,  and  after  lying  in  the  dry  state  for  some  weeks  working 
them  soft,  a  very  soft  and  elastic  leather  is  produced.  They 
may  be  finished  up  with  no  further  treatment  other  than 
working  and  smoothing,  or  they  may  be  subsequently 
tanned  in  a  chrome  process  and  then  finished. 

Chamois  leather  may  also  be  made 
By  passing  the  prepared  skins  (washed  and  pressed)  through 
a  twenty -five  per  cent.  Turkey-red  oil  solution.  After  this 
they  are  dried  and  laid  in  a  moderately  warmed  room  in  a 
heap  and  covered  up.  They  are  then  hung  up  in  the  air 
and  allowed  to  dry  slowly,  when  they  are  again  oiled  in  the 
same  solution  and  again  laid  in  a  heap,  again  dried,  and 
then  washed  in  a  weak  solution  of  alkali. 

By  drying  and  working,  the  leather  is  made  soft  and 
completely  oil-tanned.  The  results  may  be  variously  modi- 
fied by  greater  or  less  concentration  of  the  oil  solution,  by 
higher  temperature  in  drying  and  by  more  frequent  appli- 
cations or  treatments  with  the  oil.  Combinations  with  the 
salts  of  alumina  may  also  be  employed  here.  The  preferred 
method  is  as  follows  :  The  prepared  skins  are  steeped  in  a 


SHEEPSKINS  :  BARK,  EXTRACT  AND  CHAMOIS.  85 


solution  containing  preferably  fifteen  per  cent,  of  the  soluble 
Turkey-red  oil,  then  they  are  dried  and  the  operation  re- 
peated, then  the  usual  method  of  tanning  is  proceeded  with 
in  the  usual  way. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


GOATSKINS. 

BEAMHOUSE  WORK.     PREPARING  THE  SKINS  FOR  TANNING. 

Goatskins  in  the  hair  are  received  by  the  tanner  either 
in  dry  or  dry-salted  condition.  The  ends  and  objects  to  be 
accomplished  during  the  soaking  and  softening  process,  the 
first  through  which  the  skins  are  worked,  are  thorough 
softening  and  freshening  up  of  the  skins  and  the  removal 
from  them  of  dried  blood,  dirt,  dust  and  salt.  Good  results 
cannot  be  obtained  in  the  liming  process  unless  the  skins 
are  thoroughly  softened  and  cleansed  at  the  beginning. 

Dry -salted  skins  need  to  be  freed  of  all  the  salt  upon  and 
in  them  before  they  are  limed.  Such  skins  should  be 
soaked  for  a  few  hours  in  clean,  fresh  water,  then  worked 
mechanically  and  put  back  into  clean  water  for  some  hours 
longer.  The  water  should  be  frequently  changed  and  not 
allowed  to  become  foul  nor  full  of  salt.  Dried  skins  are 
somewhat  difficult  to  soften,  and  require  a  more  thorough 
soaking  than  salted  skins,  because  having  been  dried  in  the 
raw  state  they  are  almost  waterproof  and  resist  the  penetra- 
tion of  the  water.  Such  skins  are  softened  with  clean  water 
with  considerable  difficulty,  and  are  sometimes  affected  in 
quality  by  injudicious  soaking. 

In  order  to  hasten  the  soaking  and  softening,  solutions 
of  chemicals  are  used  to  good  advantage.  Borax,  sulphide 
of  sodium  and  sal  soda  are  frequently  used.  Borax  is  the  most 
expensive  of  the  three  articles.  When  it  is  employed,  from 
two  to  five  pounds  are  used  for  each  one  thousand  gallons 
of  water.  It  should  be  dissolved  in  a  separate  vessel  and 
poured  into  the  soak -water  and  well  stirred  throughout  the 

(86) 


GOATSKINS. 


87 


same.  Sulphide  of  sodium  may  be  used  in  the  same 
manner.  This  article  thoroughly  softens  the  dry  skins  and 
brings  the  withered  grain  and  fibres  back  to  a  soft,  fresh 
condition  in  a  short  time. 

Boracic  acid  is  also  used  in  the  soaking  process,  as  it 
assists  in  the  softening,  and  being  an  antiseptic,  prevents,  to 
some  extent,  any  injury  to  the  skins  caused  by  decom- 
position. 

The  serious  danger  in  connection  with  ihe  soaking  pro- 
cess is  the  liability  to  putrefaction.  This  may  be  guarded 
against  by  the  use  of  the  articles  mentioned  and  by  keeping 
the  soak  vats  clean  by  frequent  changes  of  water.  Some 
tanners  of  dried  skins  use  old  stale  soaks  in  which  they 
soften  their  skins.  Such  soaks  certainly  soften  the  skin  in 
a  short  time,  but  often  at  the  expense  of  the  stock.  The 
putrefaction  that  is  constantly  going  on  in  such  soaks  fre- 
quently causes  the  grain  of  the  leather  to  become  shaded 
and  clouded.  This  defect  is  especially  undesirable  when 
the  leather  is  dyed  fancy,  light  shades.  Improper  methods 
of  soaking  also  frequently  cause  a  pricked  or  pitted  grain. 
A  good  rule  to  observe  is  to  leave  the  skins  for  about  twenty- 
four  hours  in  the  first  soak,  then  to  pull  them  out,  and  after 
the  dirty,  salty  water  has  drained  off  to  put  them  back  into 
another  clean,  fresh  soak  to  which  some  borax  or  sulphide 
of  sodium  has  been  added,  in  which  the  softening  is  com- 
pleted. 

When  the  softened  skins  have  been  removed  from  the 
soak  vats  and  before  they  are  passed  into  the  depilating 
process,  they  are  frequently  piled  in  heaps.  Heating  fre- 
quently sets  in,  especially  in  warm  weather,  and  in  a  short 
time  serious  damage  will  result.  When  this  occurs  it  is 
necessary  to  expose  the  skins  to  the  air  at  once  or  they  will 
be  completely  destroyed.  Heating  always  injures  the  skins 
more  or  less  according  to  the  degree  of  heat  developed,  and 
it  is  therefore  very  important  that  it  be  guarded  against  as 
much  as  possible.    The  skin  piles  should  be  frequently 


88 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


handled,  or  better  still,  no  delay  should  take  place,  but  the 
skins  passed  at  once  into  the  following  process.  In  all 
beam-house  processes  it  is  good  practice  to  handle  the  stock 
promptly.  Goatskins  require  a  soaking  of  about  forty-eight 
hours,  depending  upon  their  condition  and  thickness  and 
the  temperature  of  the  water.  Good  judgment  must  be  used 
as  in  all  other  tanning  processes  and  will  go  further  towards 
getting  good  results  than  any  set  rule.  It  is  certainly  im- 
portant that  the  skins  are  thoroughly  softened  before  they 
go  into  the  liming  process.  The  cleaner  and  softer  a  skin 
is  when  it  goes  into  the  unhairing  process  the  clearer  and 
brighter  will  be  the  grain  of  the  finished  leather. 

THE  LIMING  PROCESS. 

The  office  of  any  material  used  upon  raw  skins  in  pre- 
paring them  for  tanning  into  leather  is  to  swell  and  distend 
the  fibres  of  the  skins,  thus  loosening  the  hair  roots  and  en- 
abling the  tanner  to  readily  remove  the  hair ;  then  to  dis- 
solve the  perishable  animal  matter  in  the  skins  so  that  it  can 
be  readily  removed  before  tanning.  When  this  has  been 
done,  soft,  pliable  leather  can  be  made,  and  not  before.  Var- 
ious materials  are  used  and  different  methods  are  followed 
in  the  manner  of  using  them  according  to  the  kind  of  skins 
being  worked  and  the  class  of  leather  to  be  made  from  them. 
For  many  years  the  only  depilitant  in  general  use  was 
lime.  Its  use,  however,  unless  combined  with  some  other 
article,  has  many  objections.  Red  arsenic  has  long  been 
used  in  connection  with  lime,  and  is  used  at  the  present 
time  very  extensively  in  the  tanning  or  making  of  goat 
leathers.  When  combined  with  lime  it  produces  leather 
with  a  very  fine,  elastic  grain  and  of  soft,  fine  texture. 

In  preparing  a  new  lime  with  red  arsenic,  one  hundred 
pounds  of  lime  are  slacked  with  about  twelve  pails  of  hot 
water.  To  this  quantity  of  lime  are  added  about  five  pounds 
qf  the  arsenic.  It  may  be  dissolved  separately  and  then 
mixed  with  the  lime.    Both  materials  should  be  thoroughly 


GOATSKINS. 


89 


dissolved  before  they  come  in  contact  with  the  skins.  A 
common  practice  is  to  lime  twelve  hundred  skins  at  one 
time.  No  exact  rule  is  generally  followed  in  regard  to  the 
quantity  of  lime  used  nor  to  the  length  of  time  consumed 
by  the  unhairing  process.  The  quantities  of  lime  and  red 
arsenic  mentioned  are  enough  for  six  hundred  goatskins  to 
begin  with.  After  they  have  been  in  the  liquor  for  one  day 
they  are  drawn  out  of  the  lime  and  the  liquor  w^ell  stirred 
up  in  the  vat.  If  the  skins  are  allowed  to  drain  before  they 
are  put  back  they  will  absorb  the  lime  again  more  readily. 
When  paddle-vats  are  used  it  is  not  necessary  to  pull  the 
skins  out,  although  the  lime  should  be  stirred  up  from  the 
bottom  daily.  On  the  third  day  the  liquor  should  be 
strengthened  by  the  addition  of  two  pails  of  lime.  The 
strength  at  the  beginning  should  be  about  three  degrees 
Twaddle,  and  by  the  daily  addition  of  lime  and  arsenic  it 
should  be  gradually  increased  to  about  six  degrees.  These 
points  are  not  arbitrary,  although  safe  to  work  by.  When 
too  much  lime  is  used  towards  the  end  of  the  process  the 
grain  sometimes  becomes  rough.  This  needs  to  be  over- 
come during  the  process  of  drenching  or  puring.  The  best 
results  usually  follow  the  use  of  limes  that  have  been  used 
before.  A  good  lime  may  be  prepared  in  this  way  by 
using  about  two-thirds  old  liquor  and  one-third  new — that 
is,  of  six  feet  of  liming  liquor  in  the  vat  four  feet  may  be 
old  and  two  feet  may  be  new  and  fresh. 

After  the  hair  becomes  loosened  it  is  best  to  leave  the 
skins  in  the  lime  for  a  day  or  two  longer,  as  this  not  only 
enables  the  hair  to  come  off  more  readily,  but  makes  the 
leather  more  supple.  The  use  of  red  arsenic  and  sulphide 
of  sodium  in  conjunction  with  lime  not  only  shortens  the 
time  required  to  prepare  the  skins  for  tanning,  but  also 
keeps  the  grain  from  becoming  rough,  makes  a  softer,  more 
durable  leather,  as  well  as  makes  the  lime  more  soluble,  and 
therefore  more  easily  removed  before  tanning. 


90 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Very  good  results  are  obtained  from  the  use  of  sulphide  of 
sodium  and  lime. 

There  are  various  methods  of  using  sulphide  of  sodiura. 
It  can  be  used  alone  and  applied  to  the  flesh  side  of  the 
skins,  and  the  skins  may  be  left  for  a  few  days  in  a  solution 
of  sulphide  of  sodium,  or  the  sulphide  of  sodium  may  be 
mixed  with  lime.  When  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used  alone 
and  no  lime  whatever  used,' the  resulting  leather  is  some- 
what hard  and  close,  showing  that  something  more  than 
removal  of  the  hair  must  be  accomplished  before  good 
leather  can  be  made.  Sulphide  of  sodium  is  very  simple  to 
use,  besides  producing  far  better  leather  than  the  older 
methods  of  unhairing.  No  great  harm  comes  to  the  stock 
by  using  the  sulphide  too  strong ;  the  material  is  merely 
wasted.  It  is  important  that  the  sulphide  of  sodium  be  of 
good  quality  and  free  from  dirt,  iron  or  sediment.  The 
material  should  be  dissolved  with  boiling  water  slowly,  and 
w^ell  stirred  up  and  not  allowed  to  settle.  It  should  not  be 
used  warm  but  should  be  dissolved  long  enough  beforehand 
to  enable  it  to  become  cool  before  it  is  used.  The  strength 
at  which  it  is  used  varies  slightly  according  to  the  kind  of 
skins  to  be  treated.  In  all  cases  the  strength  need  never  be 
greater  than  just  sufficient  to  start  the  hair. 

When  it  is  desirable  to  save  the  hair,  it  is  good  practice 
to  paint  the  skins  upon  the  flesh  side  with  either  a  clear 
solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium  or  a  mixture  of  sulphide  of 
sodium  and  lime.  When  this  is  done  the  skins  require  to 
be  thoroughly  softened  and  freed  of  all  salt  and  dirt,  either 
by  draining  or  extracting  before  they  are  treated.  The 
skins  are  spread  upon  a  smooth  table  and  the  depilatory 
solution  or  mixture  is  applied  to  the  flesh  side.  The  liquor 
is  put  on  by  means  of  a  vegetable  fibre  brush  or  swab  of 
burlap,  and  only  enough  liquor  is  put  on  to  cover  the  skin 
without  running  off*.  To  prevent  sore  hands,  the  workman 
must  wear  rubber  gloves.  After  painting,  the  skins  are 
folded  up  and  placed  in  piles.    If  any  of  the  sulphide  ox 


GOATSKINS. 


91 


sodium  comes  in  contact  with  the  hair  it  dissolves  and  de- 
stroj^s  it  at  once.  In  cold  weather  eight  to  ten  skins  may 
be  placed  in  a  pile  together,  but  in  warm  weather  not  more 
than  four  or  five  to  prevent  heating,  and  if  they  are  to  lie 
for  twenty-four  hours  or  longer  they  should  be  singled  out 
so  that  one  may  lie  on  the  next.  The  painting  should  be 
done  in  a  cool,  moist  room.  In  summer  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  skins  do  not  get  warm,  and  in  winter  that  they  do 
not  get  frozen.  The  hair  will  be  loosened  in  a  few  hours 
but  it  is  best  not  to  unhair  the  skins  until  the  next  day  as 
the  hair  will  then  come  off"  more  readily  and  cleanly.  Very 
young  and  tender  skins  should  be  unhaired  as  soon  as  the 
hair  starts  and  immediately  put  into  clean,  cold  water. 
After  the  hair  has  been  removed  the  skins  should  be  opened 
flesh  side  out  and  immediately  put  into  clean,  cold  water 
in  which  they  will  be  safe  from  heating  or  spoiling  for  some 
time.  No  skin  treated  with  sulphide  of  sodium  will  be  in- 
jured so  long  as  the  grain  is  kept  moist  and  not  allowed  to 
dry  out  and  harden. 

When  lime  is  mixed  witJi  the  sulphide  of  sodium 

It  should  be  thoroughly  reduced  to  milk  of  lime  by  complete 
slacking  before  it  is  used.  Hot  water  is  best  to  use  for 
slacking,  and  the  lime  should  be  stirred  from  the  time  the 
lime  and  water  are  brought  together  until  all  is  dissolved. 
Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  this  particular.  Very 
often  injury  is  done  to  skins  by  particles  of  unslacked  lime. 
About  one-third  of  a  barrel  of  lime  should  be  slacked  in 
twenty-five  gallons  of  hot  water,  and  after  the  solution  be- 
comes cool  it  should  be  used  at  the  consistency  of  thin  paste. 
Several  pails  of  this  lime  may  be  mixed  with  a  barrel  of 
sulphide  of  sodium  liquor  of  a  strength  of  about  eighteen 
degrees.  When  it  is  mixed  with  lime  the  sulphide  of 
sodium  enters  into  chemical  combination  with  the  lime, 
forming  various  mixed  sulphides  that  have  a  very  energetic 
action  upon  the  skins.    The  mixture  does  not  swell  the 


92 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


skins  to  the  same  extent  that  lime  alone  does.  At  the  same 
time  it  toughens  the  grain  and  fibre  and  helps  in  making  a 
fine-textured  leather.  The  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide 
of  sodium  is  applied  to  the  skins  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  liquor  made  from  the  latter  alone.  When  no  value  is 
placed  upon  the  hair,  the  skins  may  be  satisfactorily  depi- 
lated by  being  left  for  a  few  days  in  a  solution  of  sulphide 
of  sodium  in  a  vat. 

To  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  from  ten  to  fifteen 
pounds  of  the  sulphide  of  sodium  are  dissolved  and  poured 
into  the  vat  and  the  solution  thoroughly  stirred.  The 
skins  are  placed  in  this  liquor  and  left  therein  for  from 
twelve  to  twenty-four  hours,  or  until  the  hair  is  reduced  to 
pulp  and  can  be  readily  washed  off".  They  are  then  re- 
moved, washed  off  and  limed.  When  this  method  is  used 
it  is  not  so  important  that  the  skins  are  tboroughl}^  softened 
before  going  into  the  solution,  as  they  may  be  left  in  the 
liquor  for  forty-eight  hours  if  necessary  until  they  are 
thoroughly  softened  and  plumped.  These  methods  of  pre- 
paring goatskins  are  not  in  general  use,  the  arsenic-lime 
process  being  the  most  commonly  used.  They  produce 
good  results,  however,  and  are  used  when  it  is  not  consid- 
ered desirable  to  save  the  hair.  No  matter  which  method 
of  using  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used,  it  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  the  stronger  the  solution  is  and  the  longer  the 
skins  remain  in  the  solution,  and  the  less  the  depilatory  is 
washed  out  after  depilating  and  before  liming,  the  weaker 
and  less  liming  is  necessary.  The  sulphide  of  sodium 
softens  the  skins  and  removes  all  scurf  and  filth,  also  the 
short,  fine  hair  commonly  called  the  undergrow^th.  By  its 
use,  too,  the  time  of  liming  is  considerably  shortened. 

While  sulphide  of  sodium  is  an  excellent  unhairing 
agent,  the  mere  removal  of  the  hair  is  not  all  that  must  be 
accomplished  before  soft,  elastic  leather  can  be  made.  The 
skins,  after  the  hair  has  been  removed  from  them,  must  be 
further  plumped  in  order  to  accomplish  the  dissolution 


GOATSKINS. 


93 


of  the  animal  matter  in  them.  Lime  not  only  does  this, 
but  it  unites  with  the  fatty  matter  in  the  skins  and  saponi- 
fies it  so  that  it  can  be  readily  removed  from  the  skins 
before  they  are  tanned.  Many  good  tanners  use  what  are 
sometimes  called  gathering  limes.  These  are  good  only  so 
long  as  they  are  kept  clean  and  sweet.  When  limes  are 
used  over  and  over,  they  should  be  strengthened  and  re- 
newed with  fresh  lime  daily.  When  this  is  not  done,  and 
the  lime  liquors  are  allowed  to  become  stale  and  dirty,  the 
grain  of  the  finished  leather  will  never  be  bright  and  clear. 
The  swelling  property  of  a  lime  liquor  decreases  as  it  grows 
old,  while  the  solvent  action  of  an  old  and  a  fresh  lime  is 
about  the  same. 

After  the  sulphide  of  sodium  has  been  used  upon  the 
skins  and  the  hair  has  been  removed  they  go  into  the  first 
lime.  This  may  be  half  renewed  for  each  pack  of  skins  by 
running  out  about  one-half  of  the  liquor  and  replacing  it 
with  new,  fresh  liquor.  When  it  is  necessary  to  make  a 
new  lime,  about  two  pailfuls  of  lime  are  slacked  in  one-third 
of  a  barrel  of  hot  water.  This  is  poured  into  the  water  in 
the  vat  and  will  answer  for  three  to  four  hundred  skins, 
according  to  their  size  and  thickness.  This  first  lime 
should  always  be  kept  clean  and  fresh,  and  should  not  be 
used  too  long.  In  summer  it  should  not  be  used  more 
than  three  times ;  in  winter  it  may  be  used  twice  as  long. 
The  skins  or  slats  may  remain  in  this  lime  for  one  day, 
then  be  hauled  out  and  more  lime,  in  quantity  the  same  as 
first  put  in,  may  be  added,  or  the  skins  may  be  put  into 
another  and  stronger  lime.  Upon  the  third  day  the  skins 
are  again  hauled  out  and  more  lime  added,  and  the  lime- 
grounds  thoroughly  stirred  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  vat. 
From  four  to  six  days  liming,  after  treatment  with  sulphide 
of  sodium,  is  enough  for  goatskins.  If  they  are  to  be 
tanned  without  pickling,  a  little  more  lime  may  be  used 
and  will  do  no  harm. 

When  paddle-vats  are  used  for  the  liming  process,  the 


94 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


skins  are  kept  in  motion  and  it  is  not  necessary  to  pull 
them  out  each  day.  The  liming  will  also  be  accomplished 
in  less  time  than  when  still  limes  are  used.  V ery  light 
skins  need  to  be  limed  not  longer  than  three  or  four  days. 
In  all  cases  the  best  results  are  gotten  when  the  skins  are 
entered  into  a  weak  lime  at  first  and  the  lime  gradually 
strengthened.  When  vat  room  is  scarce,  it  is  good  practice 
to  haul  the  skins  out  of  the  lime  at  the  end  of  about  four 
days  and  to  let  them  lie  in  piles  for  a  few  days.  They 
should  be  protected  from  the  air  and  not  allowed  to  become 
dry  or  hard  upon  the  edges.  Some  tannages,  principally 
the  chrome  tannages,  produce  little  or  no  plumpness  in  the 
leather,  and  for  this  reason  the  skins  need  to  be  handled  in 
the  beam-house  in  such  a  manner  as  to  guard  against  loss 
of  fullness  and  substance  as  much  as  possible.  This  is 
done  by  short,  quick  liming. 

When  sulphide  of  sodium  is  mixed  with  the  lime  in  the 
vats  and  the  unhairing  and  preparing  of  the  skins  are  done  at 
the  same  time,  about  one-third  as  much  sulphide  of  sodium 
as  lime  is  used.  Both  are  slacked  together  and  poured  into 
the  water  in  the  vat.  The  strength  of  the  first  lime  may 
be  about  three  degrees,  and  by  the  addition  of  fresh  lime 
each  day  the  strength  is  raised  to  about  six  degrees.  When 
.this  method  is  used,  from  six  to  eight  days  is  long  enough' 
to  lime  light  skins  and  from  eight  to  ten  days  for  heavy 
skins.  After  liming,  the  skins  are  washed  in  clean  water 
in  order  to  remove  from  them  as  much  of  the  lime  as 
possible,  then  trimmed,  short-haired,  and  are  then  ready  for 
the  pure  or  drench.  The  fleshing  is  generally  done  imme- 
diately after  liming.  This  work  is  generally  done  upon 
machines,  although  some  hand  labor  is  still  employed. 

THE  BATING  OR  PURING  OP  GOATSKINS. 

The  next  step  in  the  manufacture  of  goat  leathers  is  the 
process  commonly  called  bating  or  puring,  by  means 
of  which  the  skins  are  put  into  a  neutral  condition — that 


GOATSKINS. 


95 


is,  freed  from  all  lime  and  alkaline  sulphides  used  in  the 
previous  process  of  depilating,  and  are  put  into  a  clean  and 
pure  condition  to  receive  the  tanning  materials,  vegetable 
or  mineral.  No  lime  should  be  left  in  the  skins  when  a  soft, 
fine-grained  leather  is  wanted.  When  skins  containing 
lime,  even  in  a  small  quantity,  are  tanned  by  the  chrome 
process,  the  lime  is  changed  to  sulphate  of  lime,  which 
closes  the  pores  of  the  skins,  shrinking  them  and  producing 
a  rough,  harsh  gram  and  a  close,  hard  leather. 

Tlie  essential  qualities  of  goat  leatJier  at  the  present  time 

Are  softness,  some  elasticity,  and  a  smooth,  strong  and  silky 
grain.  These  qualities  are  produced  by  the  methods  used 
in  unhairing  the  skins,  as  well  as  by  the  methods  used  in 
puring  and  drenching  them.  The  quality  and  texture 
of  finished  leather  are  largely  influenced  by  the  methods 
employed  in  this  part  of  the  work  ;  and  for  these  reasons 
this  process  has  always  been  an  interesting  and  important 
one  to  tanners.  The  number  of  materials  used  to  accom- 
plish the  objects  of  this  process  is  limited  and  there  is 
opportunity  for  improvement. 

When  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  leather  very  soft  and 
elastic,  the  skins  are  given  a  long  and  thorough  liming  and 
a  bating  in  such  a  manner  that  not  only  the  lime  is  entirely 
removed,  but  also  a  portion  of  the  substance  of  the  skins, 
thus  causing  the  fibres  to  work  readily  over  each  other  and 
the  leather  to  be  soft  and  stretchy.  The  longer  the  skins 
are  limed  the  more  thoroughly  will  the  substance  be  dis- 
solved, and  when  the  dissolved  substance  is  removed  before 
tanning  very  soft  leather  results.  Lime  has  two  distinct 
actions  upon  raw  skins.  Not  only  does  it  swell  and  split 
up  the  fibres  so  that  the  roots  of  the  hair  become  loosened 
and  easily  removed,  but  it  also  reduces  to  liquid  form  por- 
tions of  the  skin  substance  that  are  removed  by  the  process 
of  bating. 

In  the  preparation  of  goatskins  the  use  of  lime  alone 


96 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


makes  the  skins  hard  and  lacking  in  those  important  qual- 
ities that  have  made  goat  leather  so  popular.  By  the  use 
of  red  arsenic  the  grain  is  made  soft  and  fine  and  the  leather 
supple  and  elastic.  When  the  proper  proportions  are  not 
kept  up  the  leather  finishes  up  hard  and  tinn3^  The  bat- 
ing or  puring  process  serves  to  remove  not  only  the  lime 
but  also  the  dissolved  substance,  albumen,  etc.  During 
this  process,  too,  the  skins  lose  their  plump  and  swollen  con- 
dition acquired  during  the  liming  process  and  become  soft 
and  thin,  and  readily  receptive  to  the  tanning  materials. 

BATES  AND  BATING. 

To  accomplish  these  results  upon  goatskins,  hen,  pigeon 
and  dog  dung  have  been  used  for  many  years.  While  their 
use  is  unpleasant  in  the  extreme  and  attended  by  many 
dangers  and  uncertainties,  they  produce  upon  the  hard  goat- 
skin results  that  no  other  materials  seem  capable  of  produc- 
ing, and  they  continue  in  use  despite  all  attemps  to  displace 
them  with  other  articles.  Upon  calf,  sheep  and  kangaroo 
skins  and  hides  and  kips  other  simpler,  cheaper  and  safer 
articles  are  being  used,  that  produce  the  right  results,  but 
upon  goatskins  nothing  has  yet  been  practically  employed, 
to  any  extent,  to  act  as  a  substitute  for  manures.  Both 
bird  and  dog  dung  are  used.  The  bird  dung  is  very  rapid 
in  its  action  and  makes  the  skins  very  soft  and  silky,  and 
tough  but  somewhat  lacking  in  elasticity.  On  the  other 
hand  dog  dung  has  a  very  great  softening  effect  upon  the 
skins  and  unless  carefully  used  the  leather  becomes  hollow 
and  flat  with  a  great  deal  of  spring  to  it.  Chicken  manure, 
to  which  some  dog  manure  has  been  added,  is  largely  used, 
being  of  greater  strength  than  either  when  used  alone. 
Chicken  manure  varies  greatly  according  to  what  the  fowls 
have  been  fed  upon.  The  best  results  are  obtained  when 
the  material  is  gathered  while  it  is  fresh  and  driecj.  for 
future  use.  It  should  be  kept  spread  out  upon  a  dry  floor 
to  prevent  its  heating.    The  efficacy  of  the  manure  bate 


GOATSKINS. 


97 


depends  upon  the  fermentive  action  developed.  For  this 
reason  the  material  needs  to  be  allowed  to  thoroughly  fer- 
ment before  it  is  used.  The  material  may  be  prepared  by 
using  one  and  one-half  bushels  of  dung  in  one-half  of  a 
barrel  of  water.  By  the  aid  of  steam  the  temperature  is 
raised  to  boiling  point.  The  mixture  is  then  thoroughly 
stirred  until  all  lumps  are  broken  up,  then  the  barrel  is 
covered  up  and  the  material  allowed  to  ferment.  It  is  im- 
portant that  the  fermentation  be  fully  developed  before  the 
skins  are  left  for  any  length  of  time  in  the  liquor.  The 
water  used  should  be  clean,  soft  w^ater.  A  paddle-wheel  or 
vat  is  filled  with  the  necessary  quantity  of  water  heated  to 
a  temperature  of  90  degrees  Fah.  In  order  to  avoid  stains 
and  burns  caused  by  masses  of  undissolved  excrement  rest- 
ing upon  the  grain  or  lying  between  the  skins,  the  material 
should  be  strained  through  a  piece  of  burlap  or  coarse  cloth. 
The  fermented  bate  is  mixed  throughout  the  water  and  the 
skins  are  entered  into  the  liquor.  By  the  action  of  the  pad- 
dles the  skins  are  kept  in  constant  motion  and  the  results 
are  thus  uniform.  The  stock  requires  to  be  left  in  this  liquor 
until  such  time  as  the  lime  has  become  thoroughly  neu- 
tralized and  the  skins  reduced  from  their  firm,  swollen  con- 
dition to  one  of  softness  and  the  grain  has  acquired  a 
smooth  and  silky  feeling.  By  drawing  the  thumb  and  fore- 
finger across  the  body  portion  of  a  skin  the  condition  of  the 
stock  can  be  ascertained,  and  it  can  also  be  plainly  noticed 
when  the  indentation  of  the  finger  remains  upon  the  grain. 
No  exact  length  of  time  can  be  followed.  The  skins  require 
to  be  bated  in  this  way  until  they  have  become  soft  and 
white,  and  this  must  and  can  only  be  decided  by  the 
operator. 

Some  disturbing  influences  in  hating. 

For  this  reason,  and  for  many  other  disturbing  influ- 
ences over  which  the  operator  has  no  control,  the  use  of  the 
dung  bate  is  decidedly  dangerous  and  uncertain.  Constant 
7 


98 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


attention  must  be  given  to  the  stock,  and  even  when  this  is 
done  the  results  are  beyond  control.  No  one  can  tell  for  a 
certainty  whether  a  pack  of  skins  will  come  out  right  or 
not,  and  many  skins  are  seriously  damaged  during  the  pro- 
cess. The  liquor  often  putrefies  and  when  this  happens  the 
leather  is  made  flat  and  lifeless,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
interlocking  fibres  have  been  attacked  and  the  depletion  or 
bringing  down  carried  too  far.  Sometimes  in  a  very  few 
moments  after  the  stock  is  reduced  to  the  right  condition 
putrefaction  sets  in.  It  first  shows  upon  the  flesh  side, 
which  commences  to  peel  ofi"  by  gentle  pressure  of  the  finger. 
The  skins  change  color,  turning  first  blue  and  then  grad- 
ually darkening.  The  grain  becomes  afflicted  with  minute 
holes  known  as  bate  pricks.  These  are  readily  seen  and 
although  they  are  very  small  they  destroy  the  value  of  the 
leather  for  grain-finishing  purposes. 

By  carefully  watching  and  giving  close  attention  to  the 
work  the  faults  are  less  liable  to  occur,  and  the  skins  safely 
prepared  for  tanning.  It  is  upon  the  swollen  skin  sub- 
stance that  the  bate  works.  It  liquefies  a  portion  of  the 
skin  substance,  and  this  together  with  the  lime  washes  out 
in  the  form  of  a  colorless  liquid  and  the  skins  become  soft 
and  silky.  The  slimy  liquid  is  readily  removed  after  pur- 
ing  by  slight  mechanical  work  or  by  a  washing  in  warm 
water. 

Goatskins  are  of  close,  hard  grain 

And  will  stand  and  in  fact  require  a  much  more  thorough 
cleansing  than  any  other  skins.  It  is  customary,  after  the 
skins  have  been  pured  in  the  manure  bate,  to  give  them  a 
further  treatment,  by  which  they  are  still  further  cleansed 
and  any  tendency  to  decay  arrested.  The  skins  are  taken 
from  the  bate  and  given  a  thorough  working  upon  the 
grain,  by  means  of  which  the  slime  is  forced  out  of  ihe  pores. 
When  this  has  been  done  the  skins  are  placed  in  a  weak 
lactic  acid  bath  made  up  in  proportion  of  one-half  gallon  of 


GOATSKINS. 


99 


lactic  acid  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  warm  water.  After  a 
drenching  in  this  liquor  for  thirty  minutes  the  skins  are 
removed  therefrom,  washed  off  in  clean  water  and  are  then 
ready  for  tanning.  The  cleaner  the  skins  are  the  more 
readily  will  they  tan  and  the  better  will  be  the  results  of 
coloring  and  finishing.  A  point  to  be  observed  during  this 
part  of  the  work  is  that  the  temperature  of  the  liquor  should 
not  be  higher  than  ninety  degrees.  The  use  of  warmer 
liquors  than  this  burns  the  sensitive  skins,  shrinking  them 
and  causing  the  grain  to  be  harsh  and  coarse. 

THE  BRAN  DRENCH  AS  APPLIED  TO  GOATSKINS. 

A  method  of  drenching  goatskins  that  has  been  in  com- 
mon use  for  many  years  is  the  bran  drench.  Many  tanners 
consider  this  method  and  manure  drenching  the  only 
methods  of  cleansing  skins. 

In  the  manipulation  of  the  bran  drench  the  operator 
must  use  judgment,  as  no  hard  nor  fast  rule  can  be  fol- 
lowed. The  efficacy  of  this  process  also  depends  upon  the 
fermentive  action  developed,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  bran  be  fully  fermented.  In  some  tanneries 
where  old  sour  tan  liquors  are  to  be  had,  a  pailful  of  bran 
is  used  for  each  one  hundred  skins  in  enough  sour  liquor 
to  enable  the  skins  to  process  nicely.  The  drench  is  used  at 
a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees,  and  the  skins  left  therein 
over  night.  In  the  morning  a  new  drench  is  prepared. 
One  and  one-half  buckets  of  bran  are  used  for  each  one 
hundred  skins  in  sufficient  warm  water,  and  the  skins  are 
left  in  this  drench  until  they  have  become  thoroughly  soft 
and  clean.  Another  method  is  to  use  two  hundred  pounds 
of  bran  for  every  six  hundred  skins.  The  bran  is  mixed 
with  sufficient  warm  water  to  make  a  thick  mush,  covered 
up  and  allowed  to  ferment.  About  one-half  of  the  bran  is 
put  into  the  water  in  the  vat  and  well  stirred.  Then  about 
one-half  of  the  skins  are  put  in.  Before  putting  them  into 
the  drench  it  is  good  practice  to  let  them  lie  for  an  hour  or 


100 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


two  in  warm  water.  After  the  skins  are  put  in  the  drench, 
the  liquor  should  be  thoroughly  stirred,  then  the  balance 
of  the  bran  is  put  in  and  the  remaining  skins. 

It  usuall}^  requires,  including  the  time  consumed  in  de- 
veloping the  drench,  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours  to 
get  the  skins  thoroughly  worked  down.  In  summer  less 
time  is  required  than  in  winter.  After  the  skins  are 
drenched  to  the  proper  condition  they  are  removed  from 
the  liquor  and  well  washed  in  warm  water  for  a  few  min- 
utes, after  which  they  are  ready  for  the  tanning  process. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS. 

Nearly  all  goatskins  are  tanned  at  the  present  time  in 
chrome  processes,  both  one-bath  and  two-bath  processes  being 
used.  Several  methods  will  be  described.  The  original  and 
most  commonly  used  two-bath  process  consists  of  two  acid 
baths,  the  first  consisting  of  chromic  acid,  formed  by  the  com- 
bination of  bichromate  of  potash  and  muriatic  acid,  and  the 
second  consisting  of  sulphurous  acid  evolved  from  the 
union  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  muriatic  acid.  A 
practical  method  of  carrying  out  this  process  is  as  follows : 
After  the  skins  are  reduced  and  cleansed  in  the  bating 
liquor,  they  are  washed  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  weak  lactic 
acid  bath  and  then  for  another  few  minutes  in  warm  borax 
water,  prepared  by  adding  five  pounds  of  borax  dissolved 
in  hot  water,  to  one  thousand  gallons  of  water.  This  wash- 
ing is  not  always  necessary,  and  is  only  needed  when  the 
skins  have  been  very  dirty.  In  many  instances  it  may  be 
dispensed  with.  The  skins  are  next  drained  well,  and  then 
weighed. 

A  preliminary  pickling  in  a  solution  of  salt  water  and 
hydrochloric  acid  is  an  advantage,  as  it  serves  to  plump  up 
the  skins  and  to  keep  them  open  during  the  process  of  tan- 
ning, and  in  such  condition  that  they  can  be  readily  struck 
out  after  tanning.  The  pickle  consists  of  ten  pounds  of  salt 
for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  drained  skins  dissolved  in 
fifteen  gallons  of  warm  water.  This  solution  is  placed  in 
the  drum  with  the  skins  and  the  drum  run  for  about  fifteen 
minutes.  Then  the  acid  is  added.  For  every  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins  in  the  drum,  two  pounds  of  muriatic  or 

(101) 


102 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


hydrochloric  acid  are  mixed  with  about  one  pail  full  of 
boiling  water.  The  acid  solution  is  then  cooled  by  the  ad- 
dition of  two  pails  of  cold  water.  This  diluted  acid  bath  is 
poured  into  the  drum  and  the  skins  milled  in  the  salt  and 
acid  for  another  fifteen  minutes.  Upon  coming  from  the 
acid  treatment  the  skins  are  ready  for  the  chrome  process. 

The  first  bath  of  this  process  consists  of  bichromate  of 
potash,  added  to  the  acid  pickled  skins.  For  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins  two  pounds  of  bichromate  of  pot- 
ash are  dissolved  in  hot  water,  which  is  then  reduced  with 
cold  w^ater  until  the  temperature  is  about  seventy  de- 
grees. For  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  about  fifteen 
gallons  of  water  should  be  used.  The  solution  of  bichro- 
mate of  potash  is  added  to  the  skins  in  the  drum  and 
drummed  for  at  least  thirty  minutes,  when  the  strength  of 
the  liquor  is  increased  by  the  addition  of  four  pounds  of 
bichromate  of  potash  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins,  and  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  salt.  This  is  given 
to  the  skins  while  the  drum  is  in  motion  and  the  skins 
drummed  therein  until  the  thickest  part  of  the  heaviest 
skin  shows  thorough  penetration  of  the  yellow  liquon 
When  this  has  been  accomplished  the  skins  are  taken  out 
of  the  liquor  and  allowed  to  drain  for  some  hours  or  over 
night,  being  covered  with  damp  sacks  to  keep  out  the  light. 
In  the  morning  they  are  struck  out  upon  the  machine  or 
are  pressed  and  the  surplus  liquor  removed  from  them. 

Another  method  of  giving  the  skins  the  chrome  liquor 

Is  to  prepare  a  solution  of  bichromate  of  potash,  water  and 
muriatic  acid,  in  the  proportions  of  six  pounds  of  the  pot- 
ash and  three  pounds  of  the  acid  in  fifteen  or  twenty  gallons 
of  water.  A  few  pounds  of  salt  are  also  added.  The  skins 
are  drummed  in  this  liquor  until  they  are  thoroughly  pen- 
etrated with  it,  then  they  are  treated  as  mentioned  above. 
The  important  point  to  be  observed  is  that  the  skins  are  not 
done  until  the  thickest  skin  is  thoroughly  penetrated  with 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS. 


103 


the  yellow  liquor.  When  this  is  neglected  the  raw  material 
left  through  the  center  of  the  skin  causes  the  leather  to  dry 
out  hard  and  stiff. 

The  second  bath  of  the  process,  in  which  the  chromic 
acid  of  the  first  bath  is  reduced  to  chromic  oxide,  is  com- 
posed of  hyposulphite  of  soda,  water  and  muriatic  acid. 
Before  the  skins  are  entered  into  the  main  reducing  bath 
they  should  be  dipped  into  a  weak  solution  of  hyposulphite 
of  soda  and  acid,  by  means  of  which  a  slight  surface  reduc- 
tion is  accomplished.  For  every  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins  about  four  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  are  dis- 
solved and  added  to  fifteen  gallons  of  water.  The  skins  are 
dipped  singly  in  this  Solution  and  then  thrown  over  a  horse 
for  a  short  time  to  drain.  The  main  reducing  bath  is 
carried  out  in  paddle  vats.  For  every  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins  weighed  before  the  first  bath,  ten  pounds  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda  are  dissolved  by  boiling  in  about  twenty 
gallons  of  water.  This  solution  is  added  to  the  necessary 
quantity  of  water  in  the  vat  and  the  liquor  is  well  stirred. 
Then  five  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  skins  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  is  added  to  the  liquor.  The  addition  of  the 
acid  changes  the  color  of  the  liquor  to  a  white  or  milky 
color.  The  skins  should  be  thrown  in  at  once,  and  paddled 
about  in  the  liquor  until  no  trace  of  the  yellow  liquor  is 
left.  A  good  rule  to  follow  is  to  enter  the  skins  in  the 
liquor  in  the  morning  and  leave  them  in  during  the  day, 
then  to  let  them  lie  quiet  during  the  night  and  be  again 
stirred  about  for  another  hour  in  the  morning.  This  com- 
pletes the  tanning.  The  skins  gradually  assume  a  pale 
bluish-white  color  and  slowly  lose  the  raw-hide  feeling  and 
become  leather. 

A  new  process  of  tivo-bath  chrome  tanning, 

Upon  which  a  patent  has  been  granted,  is  carried  out  as 
follows  :  For  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  drained 
after  the  final  washing,  four  pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash 


104 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  three  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  of  a  strength  of  20°  Be., 
mingled  with  the  requisite  quantity  of  water,  constitute  the 
first  bath.  In  this  the  skins  are  drummed  until  the  yellow 
liquor  has  entirely  penetrated  them,  then  they  are  removed 
from  the  drum  and  drained  for  some  hours,  struck  out  or 
pressed,  and  are  then  ready  for  the  second  bath.  Into  one 
hundred  gallons  of  warm  water  are  poured  five  pounds  and 
five  ounces  of  sulphuric  acid  66°  Be.  This  is  well  mixed 
through  the  water  and  then  are  added  by  being  slowly 
sifted  in,  four  pounds  of  peroxide  of  sodium.  While  this  is 
being  done  the  liquor  should  be  constantly  stirred.  When 
the  powder  has  been  added  the  previously  chromed  skins 
are  entered  into  the  bath  and  paddled  until  they  are 
tanned. 

Another  Method. 

There  are  several  methods  of  tanning  goatskins  with  the 
one-bath  chrome  liquors  in  practical  use.  A  common  pro- 
cess consists  of  first  tawing  the  skins  in  a  solution  of  sulphate 
of  alumina  and  salt,  and  then  giving  them  the  chrome 
liquor.  This  ma}^  be  done  in  various  ways.  A  process  in 
common  use  is  carried  out  as  follows  :  The  skins  are  taken 
after  the  washing  in  warm  borax  water,  drained  and 
weighed.  For  every  one  hundred  pounds  in  the  pack, 
three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina,  four  pounds  of  glauber 
salt  and  five  pounds  of  common  salt  are  dissolved  in  six 
gallons  of  water.  The  glauber  salt  may  be  omitted  and  the 
quantity  of  common  salt  increased  to  eight  or  nine  pounds. 
This  solution  is  put  into  a  drum  with  the  skins,  and  the 
latter  milled  in  the  liquor  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or 
until  the  tawing  materials  have  been  taken  up  by  the  skins 
and  the  grain  has  become  smooth  and  free  from  stringiness. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  the  skins  may  be  removed  from  the 
drum,  thrown  over  horses  and  allowed  to  drain  for  a  few 
days,  the  longer  the  better,  or  they  may  be  tanned  with  the 
chrome  liquor  without  being  removed  from  the  drum.  The 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS.  105 

usual  quantity  of  chrome  liquor  required  by  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins  is  three  gallons.  This  is  diluted  with  three 
gallons  soft  water,  and  the  six  gallons  of  liquor  divided  into 
three  portions.  The  first  portion  is  given  to  the  skins 
at  the  end  of  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  the  skins 
drummed  therein  for  thirty  minutes  ;  then  the  second  por- 
tion is  added  and  the  skins  drummed  for  another  thirty 
minutes,  then  the  last  portion  is  given  to  the  skins  and  the 
whole  drummed  for  from  one  to  two  hours,  or  until  the 
skins  are  thoroughly  tanned.  The  skins  are  allowed  to  lie 
in  the  liquor  over  night  and  are  then  drained  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  after  which  they  are  washed  for  thirty  minutes 
in  warm  borax  water  and  for  twenty  minutes  in  clear,  cold 
water. 

Goatskins  may  also  be  tanned 
Directly  after  the  drenching  and  washing  with  the  one- 
bath  chrome  liquor  without  the  use  of  the  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  salt.  The  advantages  of  the  last  two  articles 
are  that  the  skins  are  plumped  and  filled  somewhat,  the 
fibres  are  kept  from  being  drawn  and  the  skins  are  kept 
in  such  condition  that  they  can  be  struck  out  after  tanning 
without  springing  back,  which  is  sometimes  a  great  annoy- 
ance in  currying  chrome  leather. 

When  the  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  are  not  used,  the 
washed  and  drained  skins  are  drummed  in  a  salt  solution, 
ten  pounds  of  salt  in  five  gallons  of  water  for  every  one 
hundred  pounds,  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  the  chrome 
liquor  is  added  in  portions  of  one  or  two  gallons  at  a  time 
until  three  gallons  have  been  used  for  every  one  hundred 
pounds,  and  the  skins  drummed  in  this  until  they  are 
tanned  through.  This  usually  requires  three  hours, 
although  the  skins  should  be  left  in  the  liquor  for  twenty- 
four  hours  so  as  to  give  the  salts  taken  up  by  them  time  to 
act  upon  the  fibres.  A  washing  in  warm  borax  water  for 
fifteen  minutes  and  in  clear  water  for  thirty  minutes  com- 
pletes the  tanning. 


106 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Good  leather  is  also  made  by  taming 

The  skins  in  the  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt, 
and  then  drying  them  out.  The  longer  the  skins  lie  in  the 
dry  or  crust  state  the  better  will  be  the  resulting  leather. 
When  they  are  to  be  tanned  with  the  chrome  liquor  they 
are  placed  in  a  drum  with  warm  water  and  washed  therein 
until  every  spot  is  uniformly  moistened.  Then  the  chrome 
liquor  is  given  to  them.  The  calf-kid  tannage  of  salt,  alum, 
flour  and  oil  may  be  applied  previous  to  the  chrome  process, 
and  when  this  is  done  very  little  fat-liquor  is  needed  to 
impart  to  the  leather  the  requisite  degree  of  softness.  Soft 
water  should  be  used  with  one-bath  chrome  liquors,  as  hard 
water  contains  lime,  which  sometimes  produces  undesirable 
effects. 

Another  good  method 

Of  tanning  the  skins  is  by  giving  them  the  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  salt  in  the  drum,  then  removing  the  skins 
from  the  drum  to  tan  them  in  the  chrome  liquors  in  vats. 
In  carrying  out  this  process  the  skins  are  treated  in  much 
the  same  manner  as  when  they  are  being  tanned  in  bark  or 
sumac  liquors.  The  tannage  is  begun  in  a  weak  liquor, 
and  after  they  begin  to  absorb  the  tanning  material,  the 
liquor  is  strengthened  until  it  is  fairly  strong.  For  every 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  three  gallons  of  tanning  liquor 
are  used.  One  gallon  is  added  to  the  water  at  the  beginning 
and  the  balance  after  the  skins  have  begun  to  tan.  Or  for 
each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  two  gallons  of  the  con- 
centrated tanning  liquor  are  added,  thus  making  a  two 
per  cent,  liquor.  This  is  a  good  strength  to  begin  with. 
As  the  skins  tan  the  bath  should  be  strengthened  by  the 
addition  of  more  tanning  material  until  it  becomes  a  four 
or  six  per  cent,  solution.  Some  salt  is  also  required.  It 
keeps  the  skins  open  and  plump,  and  receptive  to  the 
tanning  liquor,  thus  hastening  the  process.  Enough  water 
should  always  be  used  to  enable  the  skins  to  float  and  turn 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS.  107 

in  the  liquor  by  the  action  of  the  paddles.  The  skins 
gradually  assume  a  greenish-blue  color,  and  when  this  color 
has  penetrated  the  thickest  skin  the  tanning  is  done.  The 
process  usually  takes  from  one  to  two  days,  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  liquor  and  the  thickness  of  the  skins. 
No  harm  can  come  to  the  skins  by  remaining  longer  in  the 
liquor  than  is  necessary.  It  is  important  that  every  skin 
be  thoroughly  tanned,  as  a  thin  sheet  of  raw  substance 
through  the  center  causes  them  to  be  hard  and  tinny  when 
dried  out. 

The  vat  method  of  tanning  is  cheaper  than  the  drum 
method,  as  much  strength  is  left  in  the  liquor  after  a  pack 
of  skins  is  tanned  and  this  can  be  exhausted  by  a  fresh 
pack.  The  suggestions  that  have  been  given  in  regard  to 
the  washing  after  drum  tanning  apply  also  to  skins  that 
have  been  tanned  in  vats. 

A  method  of  tanning  goatskins  with  the  one-bath  process^ 

That  results  in  the  production  of  plump  leather,  is  carried 
out  as  follows :  After  the  bating  and  washing  the  skins  are 
pickled  in  a  solution  of  sulphuric  acid,  salt  and  water. 
This  liquor  may  be  made  of  two  and  one-half  quarts  of 
sulphuric  acid,  and  fifty  pounds  of  salt  in  a  sufficient 
volume  of  w^ater  to  enable  the  skins  to  be  stirred  about. 
While  the  skins  are  in  this  liquor  they  should  be  constantly 
stirred  about ;  and  taken  out  at  the  end  of  six  hours.  This 
pickling  liquor  thoroughly  cleanses  the  skins  and  bleaches 
them.  After  they  are  taken  out  of  the  liquor  they  should 
be  allowed  to  drain  for  a  short  time,  and  after  draining 
they  are  weighed.  The  first  part  of  the  process  consists  of 
applying  to  the  pickled  skins  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  sal  soda.  For  every  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins  to  be  tanned  three  pounds  sulphate  of  alumina  are 
dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water,  by  boiling  for  a  few 
minutes,  also  three  pounds  of  sal  soda  in  five  gallons  of 
water.    The  solution  of  sal  soda  is  slowly  poured  into  the 


108 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


alumina  solution,  a  portion  at  a  time,  and  short  intervals 
allowed  for  the  foaming  to  subside.  The  combination  of 
the  two  solutions  forms  a  milky-white  liquor.  If  this  is  to 
be  used  at  once,  enough  cold  w^ater  should  be  added  to 
reduce  its  temperature  to  85  degrees.  The  pickled  skins, 
after  draining,  are  placed  in  the  drum  with  ten  pounds  of 
salt  and  five  gallons  of  water  for  every  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins.  The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  solution  for  five 
minutes  until  the  salt  has  penetrated  them.  Then  the 
solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  sal  soda  is  poured  into 
the  drum,  and  the  skins  drummed  for  thirty  minutes. 
For  each  hundred-w^eight  of  skins  in  the  drum  one  gallon  of 
tanning  liquor  is  next  given  to  the  skins,  and  the  whole 
drummed  for  one-half  hour,  then  another  gallon  for  every 
hundred  weight  of  skins  is  poured  into  the  drum,  and  the 
skins  drummed  for  one  hour,  then  another  gallon  of  tanning 
material  for  each  hundred  weight  of  skins  is  added  and  the 
skins  drummed  for  from  one  to  two  hours,  according  to  their 
thickness,  until  they  are  well  struck  through  with  the  tan- 
ning liquor.  To  complete  the  process  one-half  pound  of  salts 
of  tartar  is  dissolved  in  a  little  water  and  poured  into  the 
drum,  and  the  drumming  continued  for  one-half  hour.  At 
the  end  of  this  length  of  time,  the  tanning  should  be  com- 
plete ;  but  if  any  doubt  exists  in  the  mind  of  the  tanner,  the 
skins  may  be  drummed  for  another  hour,  and  then  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  liquor  over  night.  The  tanned  skins  ma}^ 
now  be  removed  from  the  drum  and  thrown  over  horses 
and  allowed  to  drain  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  thus 
giving  the  tanning  material  taken  up  by  them  time  to 
take  thorough  efi'ect.  This  is  followed  by  a  washing  in 
borax  water,  preferably  warm  (one  pound  of  borax  for  each 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins)  for  thirty  minutes,  and  then 
in  clean  water  for  one  hour  or  until  the  leather  is  perfectly 
neutral  to  the  taste,  after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  work  of 
striking  out,  shaving,  coloring  and  finishing. 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS. 


109 


Another  satisfactory  method 
Of  tanning  the  pickled  goatskins  consists  of  drumming  the 
skins  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  solution  of  glauber  salt  con- 
sisting of  one  pound  of  the  salt  dissolved  in  eight  gallons 
of  water.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the  chrome  liquor  is 
applied  to  the  skins,  in  quantities  of  one  gallon  at  a  time 
at  intervals  of  one  half-hour  until  three  gallons  have  been 
used  for  every  hundred  weight  of  skins.  The  drumming 
in  the  chrome  liquor  usually  requires  about  two  and  a 
half  hours.  By  the  end  of  this  time  the  skins  are  usually 
well  struck  with  the  chrome  liquor.  In  a  small  quantity 
of  water  one-half  pound  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  for  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins  is  dissolved  and  poured  into  the 
drum  and  the  skins  milled  for  another  thirty  minutes. 
Enough  water  should  now  be  added  to  the  contents  of  the 
drum  to  cover  the  skins,  and  the  skins  left  in  the  liquor 
over  night.  After  draining  for  twenty-four  hours  the 
tanned  skins  are  washed  for  thirty  minutes  in  warm  water. 
Prolonged  washing  is  not  necessary  in  this  instance,  as  is 
the  case  when  sulphate  of  alumina  is  used  in  tanning. 

The  one-bath  methods  of  tanning  that  have  been  de- 
scribed are  very  simple  and  safe.  Unless  serious  mistakes 
are  made,  which  is  not  likely,  good  saleable  leather  results 
from  their  use.  The  simplicity  of  the  one-bath  process  is 
its  greatest  recommendation.  Tanolin  is  the  chrome  liquor 
referred  to  in  the  above  directions. 

A  New  Process  of  Acid  Tanning. 

One  of  the  most  essential  qualities  of  goatskin  leather  is 
a  smooth,  fine  grain.  A  new  process  of  acid  tanning  that 
produces  this  desired  result  has  recently  been  introduced. 
It  is  applied  practically  in  the  following  manner :  While  it 
partakes  to  some  extent  of  the  nature  of  the  original  two- 
bath  process,  it  is  really  a  one-bath  process.  Four  pounds 
of  bichromate  of  potash  are  used  for  each  hundred  pounds 
of  skins.  This  quantity  of  potash  is  mixed  with  three 
pounds  of  muriatic  acid  of  a  strength  of  twenty  degrees  Be. 


110 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  skins  are  treated  to  this  solution  in  a  vat  for  a  period 
of  time  long  enough  to  enable  the  yellow  liquor  to  pene- 
trate the  thickest  skin.  Without  removing  the  skins  from 
this  chrome  liquor  two  solutions — called  the  S.  Z.  solution 
and  the  S.  K.  solution — are  added,  in  the  proportion  of 
twenty  per  cent,  of  the  former  and  thirty-five  per  cent, 
of  the  latter.  These  two  solutions  should  be  well  mixed 
together  before  being  given  to  the  skins.  After  the  two 
solutions  have  been  mixed  and  added  to  the  chrome  liquor, 
five  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  skins  of  sulphuric  acid  is 
mixed  with  about  thirty  times  its  weight  of  water  and 
added  to  the  bath.  To  prevent  the  acid  from  coming  in 
direct  contact  with  the  skins,  it  should  be  added  to  the  bath 
through  a  lead-lined  funnel  long  enough  to  reach  the 
bottom  of  the  vat.  While  these  liquors  are  being  added 
the  skins  should  be  kept  in  constant  motion.  At  the  end 
of  one  and  one-half  days  the  tanning  is  done,  although  the 
skins  may  be  left  for  a  longer  time  in  the  liquor  without 
injury.  No  contraction  of  the  fibres  results  when  this  pro- 
cess is  used,  and  no  sulphur  is  present  as  in  the  older 
chrome  process. 

The  S.  Z.  solution  consists  of  eighty  pounds  of  nitrite  of 
soda  dissolved  in  eighty-four  pounds  of  hot  water.  The 
S.  K.  solution  is  composed  of  forty-eight  pounds  of  fresh 
chloride  of  lime,  forty-eight  pounds  of  soda-ash  and  three 
hundred  and  eighty-four  pounds  of  hot  water.  The  soda 
ash  is  first  dissolved  in  the  hot  water,  and  when  it  is  all 
dissolved  the  chloride  of  lime  is  added  through  a  sieve. 
While  this  is  being  done  the  liquor  should  be  constantly 
stirred.  When  all  the  lime  has  been  stirred  in,  the  liquor 
is  allowed  to  rest  for  two  days,  until  all  the  sediment  has 
settled  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  clear  liquor  is 
drawn  ofi"  and  used  in  the  process,  while  the  sediment  is 
thrown  away.  Both  liquors  S.  Z.  and  S.  K.  may  be  kept 
in  one  vessel,  carboy,  vat  or  hogshead,  provided  the  proper 
proportions  are  kept  up,  and  when  it  is  wanted  the  required 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS.  Ill 

quantity  is  taken  out  and  used.  A  wooden  tank,  tub  or 
hogshead  should  be  used  for  making  the  solutions.  Goat- 
skins intended  for  glazed  kid  or  patent  or  enameled  stock 
are  tanned  in  this  process  without  pickling,  being  taken 
direct  from  the  drenches  and  treated  to  the  chrome  liquor 
of  the  first  part  of  the  process. 

CHROME  TANNING  ALUM-TANNED  GOATSKINS. 

Very  fine  kid  leather  is  made  by  subjecting  goatskins  to 
a  process  combining  alum  and  chrome  tanning.  Leather 
made  by  this  process  is  full  and  plump,  soft,  and  of  fine 
grain  and  texture.  For  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  thor- 
oughly bated  and  washed,  and  weighed  after  draining,  an 
alum  process  is  prepared  consisting  of  nine  pounds  of  alum, 
three  pounds  of  salt  and  thirty  pounds  of  wheat  flour,  thor- 
oughly mixed  together  in  fifteen  gallons  of  water  at  a  tem- 
perature of  ninety  degrees.  To  this  liquor  are  added  twelve 
pounds  of  egg  yolk,  which  must  be  thoroughly  incorporated 
with  the  other  ingredients  by  vigorous  stirring.  In  place 
of  egg  yolk  alone  being  used,  a  mixture  of  egg  yolk  and  oil 
may  be  used,  about  two-thirds  egg  yolk  and  one-third  olive 
oil  combined  together.  The  skins  and  the  solution  are 
placed  in  a  drum,  which  is  set  in  motion  and  the  skins 
drummed  in  the  liquor  for  an  hour,  or  until  they  have  ab- 
sorbed the  contents  of  the  drum.  This  completes  the  first 
step  in  the  process,  and  is  commonly  called  tawing.  The 
tawed  skins  are  next  hung  up  and  dried  out ;  and  after 
drying  they  should  be  allowed  to  lie  in  the  dry  condition 
before  being  finished. 

The  chrome  part  of  the  process  consists  in  submitting  the 
skins  to  a  one-bath  chrome  liquor.  When  this  is  to  be 
done  the  dry  skins  are  uniformly  moistened  with  warm  soft 
water,  and  are  then  tanned  in  a  drum  in  a  chrome  liquor. 
It  usually  requires  three  gallons  of  liquor  and  three  hours 
drumming  to  complete  the  process,  after  which  the  skins 
are  washed  and  finished  the  same  as  any  other  chrome 


112 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


leather,  with  the  exception  that  no  fat-liquoring  is  required. 
The  skins  can  also  be  tanned  by  this  process  by  omitting 
the  egg  yolk  and  oil  from  the  alum  process  and  using  only 
alum,  salt  and  flour ;  and  then  after  the  skins  have  been 
chrome  tanned  to  fat-liquor  them  with  a  fat-liquor  of  soap 
and  oil,  or  of  egg  yolk  and  oil,  then  drying  the  leather  out 
and  finishing  it  in  the  usual  way. 

SUGGESTIONS  AND  PRECAUTIONS. 

A  very  good  rule  to  follow  in  the  making  of  light  leather 
by  any  chrome  process  of  tanning  is  to  sort  the  skins  at  the 
beginning  of  the  work  in  the  beam-house  into  three  grades, 
according  to  weight  or  thickness  :  light,  medium  and  heavy. 
When  each  class  is  treated  by  itself,  the  advantages  gained 
by  sorting  are  noticed  in  the  much  more  uniform  quality 
of  the  leather  that  results  when  a  mixed  lot  of  skins  is 
treated  without  sorting.  Some  skins  are  open  and  porous, 
while  others  are  close  and  tight-grained,  and  if  both  kinds 
are  worked  through  together,  the  finished  leather  is  liable 
to  be  very  uneven  in  quality  and  texture.  The  open  por- 
ous skins  absorb  more  lime  than  others  and  absorb  it  in 
less  time,  while  the  close,  hard  skins  will  stand,  and  gen- 
erally require,  more  thorough  drenching  and  washing  than 
the  open  porous  skins. 

The  advantage  gained  by  sorting  the  skins  is  especially 
apparent  when  a  one-bath  process  of  tanning  is  used.  When 
the  skins  are  nearly  all  of  the  same  thickness,  after  being  in 
the  liquor  a  certain  length  of  time  they  will  be  uniformly 
tanned,  whereas  if  some  of  the  skins  are  thick  and  heavy 
and  others  are  thin  and  light,  the  thin  ones  will  be  tanned 
through  in  a  much  shorter  time  than  the  heavy  ones.  A 
saving  of  time,  labor  and  tanning  materials  is  accom- 
plished by  judicious  sorting  of  the  skins  before  they  are 
tanned.  A  liberal  quantity  of  salt  should  be  used  in  the 
tanning  liquor.  It  not  only  keeps  the  skins  open  and 
plump  and  receptive  to  the  tanning  liquor,  thus  hastening 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS.  113 

the  process  somewhat,  but  also  helps  in  making  a  light,  soft 
leather.  When  chrome-tanned  skins  finish  up  hard  and 
tinny,  it  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  either  the  stock 
was  not  limed  enough  before  tanning,  not  thoroughly  leath- 
ered, or  not  sufficiently  lubricated  with  fat-liquor.  Thor- 
ough liming  and  drenching  are  necessary  for  a  good  tan- 
nage that  will  carry  the  grease  well.  It  is  also  highly 
important  that  the  skins  be  entirely  tanned  and  no  thin 
sheet  of  raw  material  be  left  through  the  center  thus  caus- 
ing the  skins  to  be  hard  and  papery. 

Two-bath  processes  require  great  nicety  of  proportions  in 
order  to  get  satisfactory  results,  and  it  is  much  easier  to  go 
wrong  and  suffer  failure  than  to  get  the  process  right  and 
achieve  success.  When  a  two-bath  process  is  used  and  the 
chromic  acid  of  the  first  bath  does  not  penetrate  through 
every  fibre  and  the  reducing  agent  of  the  second  bath  does 
not  completely  reduce  the  chromic  acid  to  chromic  oxide, 
the  leather,  being  not  fully  tanned,  dries  out  hard  and  stiff. 
If  a  one-bath  process  is  used  and  the  tanning  material  does 
not  penetrate  every  fibre,  the  skins  do  not  get  completely 
tanned  and  the  same  trouble  occurs.  There  is  no  economy 
in  saving  a  few  cents'  worth  of  tanning  material  and  losing 
dollars  because  of  faulty  leather.  One-bath  liquors,  when 
used  in  paddle  vats,  are  handled  in  much  the  same  manner 
as  bark  or  sumac  liquors ;  that  is,  the  skins  are  started  in  a 
weak  liquor  and  this  is  gradually  strengthened  until  the 
tanning  is  finished.  The  object  of  using  a  weak  liquor  at 
the  start  is  to  prevent  the  astringent  liquor  drawing  or 
puckering  the  grain.  A  two  per  cent,  liquor  is  usually 
used  at  the  start,  that  is,  two  gallons  of  concentrated  tan- 
ning liquors  used  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  water,  and  this 
is  gradually  strengthened  by  additions  of  chrome  liquor 
until  it  becomes  a  four  to  six  per  cent,  solution.  Soft  water 
is  required  by  most  one-bath  processes,  as  hard  water  con- 
tains quantities  of  lime  and  magnesia  salts. 

When  the  skins  are  perfectly  free  from  dirt  and  lime  they 
8 


114 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


begin  to  absorb  the  tanning  material  at  once  and  thus  grad- 
ually assume  a  greenish-blue  color  and  the  bath  loses  its 
strength.  In  order  that  the  skins  may  grow  into  plump 
and  well-tanned  leather,  it  is  necessary  that  more  tanning 
fluid  be  added  at  short  intervals  in  order  to  feed  the  leather 
and  keep  the  strength  of  the  liquor  at  the  proper  point. 
Skins  left  too  long  in  a  weak  liquor  tan  out  thin  and  lifeless. 

When  the  tanning  is  completed  and  the  skins  are  taken 
out  of  the  liquor,  considerable  tanning  material  is  left  in 
the  bath.  This  should  not  be  thrown  away,  but  another 
lot  of  skins  started  in  it,  and  the  fresh  skins  will  completely 
exhaust  the  strength  of  the  bath.  A  new  liquor  can  be 
prepared  and  the  skins  from  the  old  liquor  tanned  out  in 
the  new  by  strengthening  it  from  time  to  time.  In  this 
way  great  economy  in  the  cost  of  tanning  can  be  achieved. 

When  skins  are  tanned  in  drums  the  length  of  time  re- 
quired to  tan  them  can  be  easily  regulated  when  the  skins 
are  of  uniform  thickness.  When  a  mixed  lot  of  skins  are 
tanned,  by  the  time  the  heavy  ones  are  tanned  through, 
the  thin  ones  will  be  tanned  more  than  enough.  Prolonged 
drumming  is  not  beneficial  to  the  skins ;  on  the  contrary, 
the  less  drumming  and  pounding  the  skins  are  subjected  to 
the  better  will  be  the  leather  as  regards  fullness  and  plump- 
ness. The  tight  nature  of  goatskins  enables  them  to  stand 
prolonged  drumming  without  injury,  while  calfskins  are 
easily  damaged  by  being  drummed  too  long. 

FAT-LIQUORING. 

One  of  the  most  important  stages  in  the  whole  process  of 
making  chrome  leather  is  the  fat-liquoring,  by  means  of 
which  the  leather  is  nourished  and  lubricated,  thus- increas- 
ing its  strength  and  softness.  When  proper  lubrication  is 
lacking,  the  fibers,  being  harsh  and  dry,  grate  on  each 
other,  and  the  constant  friction  causes  the  leather  soon  to 
become  worn  out.  Only  the  best  materials  should  be  used 
as  fat-liquors.     Good  oils  certainly  cost  more  than  poor 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS.  115 

oils,  yet  the  better  quality  of  the  leather  resulting  from  the 
use  of  good  materials  will  more  than  repay  the  extra  cost. 
The  tanned  skins  should  be  sorted  before  being  fat-liquored. 
When  a  mixed  lot  of  skins  is  fat-liquored  together  the 
light  ones  absorb  more  grease  than  they  require,  while  the 
heavy  ones  do  not  get  grease  enough.  An  unpleasant  odor 
and  white  grease  spots  often  occur  when  low-grade  animal 
oils  are  used  in  finishing  leather.  These  oils  are  prone  to 
decomposition  and  fermentation,  and  when  these  things 
occur  the  bad  smell  results,  and  the  oil  by  spewing  out 
upon  the  surface  not  only  injures  the  finish,  but  also  the 
appearance  of  the  leather.  Olive  oil  is  the  best  of  all  oils 
to  use.  Its  high  cost,  however,  stands  in  the  way  of  its 
general  use. 

Certain  defects  and  their  correction. 

An  open,  porous  grain  is  sometimes  caused  by  liming  the 
skins  too  long  and  by  very  low  bating  or  drenching.  This 
fault  may  be  partly  overcome  if  not  entirely  eradicated  by 
the  application  of  a  weak  solution  of  lactic  acid  before  the 
leather  is  finished.  This  seems  to  tighten  the  grain  some- 
what as  well  as  to  dry  up  the  surface  grease,  and  this  assists 
in  getting  a  clear,  bright  finish.  A  grey  bottom  on  black 
leather  is  sometimes  the  result  of  the  dye  not  having  been 
gotten  down  into  the  grain.  By  first  staining  the  skins  a  blue 
or  purple  the  final  color  of  the  leather  is  much  improved,  the 
blue  or  purple  color  serving  as  a  foundation  for  the  black. 
It  is  generally  desirable  to  have  the  flesh  colored  through, 
and  to  accomplish  this  the  dye  must  be  used  warm  and 
thoroughly  milled  into  the  leather  by  means  of  a  drum. 
Considerable  difference  is  often  noticed  between  difi'erent 
lines  of  skins  as  regards  fullness  and  plumpness  along  the 
sides  and  in  the  flanks.  Some  skins  are  well  filled  and 
plump  in  these  parts,  while  others  are  very  loose  and  flabby, 
sometimes  to  such  an  extent  as  to  impair  the  value  of  the 
leather  and  to  cause  annoyance  and  loss  to  the  cutter.  The 


116 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


higher-priced  skins  are  not  often  afflicted  in  this  way,  since 
in  the  grading  of  the  skins  the  condition  of  the  sides  and 
flanks  is  one  of  the  chief  things  taken  into  consideration  in 
determining  into  what  grade  a  skin  should  go.  Some 
classes  of  skins  are  naturally  more  flanky  than  others. 
Among  goatskins  the  Patna  and  Brazilian  skins  are  the 
least  flanky  of  any,  while  the  cheaper  skins,  such  as  the 
Chinas  and  some  European  and  African  skins,  are  not  only 
coarse-grained  but  coarse  and  loose  along  the  sides  and  in 
the  flanks.    When  this  condition  is  natural  in  a  skin  it  is 
impossible  to  be  overcome,  although  it  can  be  somewhat 
diminished  by  judicious  handling  by  the  tanner.  When 
the  sides  and  flanks  are  naturally  full  and  plump  before 
tanning,  and  then  are  loose  and  flabby  after  tanning,  it  is 
generally  the  result  of  improper  methods  of  working  the 
skins,  especially  in  the  beam-house.    A  faulty  condition 
of  the  flanks  is  often  caused  by  the  skins  having  been  limed 
too  long.    Prolonged  liming  causes  the  skins  to  become 
loose  and  open  by  reason  of  skin  substance  being  dissolved 
by  the  lime.    The  flanks  being  naturally  thin  and  open 
are  the  most  liable  to  show  up  the  damage  done  by  over 
liming.    Nothing  that  the  tanner  can  do  will  overcome  the 
injury  done  in  this  way.    Chrome  tannages  do  not  fill  the 
leather  nor  produce  plumpness  as  other  tannages  do,  and 
for  these  reasons  the  skins  must  be  handled  during  the  pro- 
cesses of  the  beam-house  in  such  a  manner  as  to  guard 
against  loss  of  substance  and  plumpness  as  much  as  pos- 
sible.   A  short,  quick  liming  in  a  clean  mixture  of  either 
lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  or  lime  and  red  arsenic  results 
in  preparing  the  skins  in  a  short  time  without  the  loss 
of  substance  which  always  causes  the  leather  to  be  thin  and 
soft.    Some  plumpness  can  be  acquired  by  tawing  the  skins 
in  a  solution  of  alum  and  salt  before  chrome-tanning  them, 
but  this  is  not  always  practicable.    The  skins  are  also  some- 
times injured  by  the  prolonged  drumming  to  which  they 
are  subjected  when  drums  are  used.    When  they  are  tanned 


THE  CHROME  TANNING  OF  GOATSKINS.  117 

in  paddle-vats  they  are  not  pounded,  and  by  being  allowed 
to  absorb  the  tanning  material  slowly  they  grow  into  fairly 
plump  leather. 

Goatskins  are  generally  afflicted  with  coarse,  rough  grain  along 
the  necks  and  shoulders. 

By  skillful  handling  by  the  tanner  this  defect  may  be  to 
some  extent  overcome.  It  must  be  done  before  the  skins 
are  tanned,  during  the  process  of  bating  or  drenching. 
Some  bates  give  a  smoother  and  more  elastic  grain  than 
others,  but  they  are  also  liable,  unless  carefully  manipu- 
lated, to  reduce  the  skins  to  the  condition  of  rags,  and 
when  skins  so  completely  reduced  are  tanned,  the  leather 
is  very  loose  and  lifeless.  Manures  produce  good  results  on 
goatskins  provided  the  skins  are  not  reduced  too  much,  and 
after  the  manure  bating  the  skins  should  be  given  a  wash- 
ing off  in  a  warm  lactic  acid  bath  for  a  few  minutes.  A 
coarse,  rough  grain  is  also  sometimes  caused  by  fresh  white 
lime  used  towards  the  end  of  the  liming  process.  A  manure 
bate  is  the  best  to  use  to  accomplish  the  reduction  of  the 
rough  grain  and  give  the  grain  the  smoothness  and  softness 
so  much  desired,  but  it  must  be  carefully  handled.  Some 
materials  used  as  bates  remove  or  neutralize  the  lime  with- 
out reducing  the  skin  ;  that  is,  they  do  not  attack  the  sub- 
stance of  the  skins,  but  leave  them  full  and  plump,  and 
skins  so  prepared  always  work  out  with  considerable  plump- 
ness and  life.  The  cheaper  grades  of  goatskins  are  all  rough 
and  coarse  in  grain  and  fibre.  Unless  such  skins  are  very 
carefully  handled,  they  will  not  result  in  very  desirable 
leather,  as  the  faulty  grain  and  texture  prevent  their  being 
used  for  any  except  second-class  purposes.  The  coarseness 
can  be  somewhat  lessened  by  careful  beam-house  work,  but 
of  course  never  completely  eliminated.  Much  depends,  too, 
upon  how  the  skins  are  tanned  and  the  articles  used  in 
tanning  and  coloring  them.  The  quality  of  leather  is  pro- 
duced more  by  the  methods  of  working  the  skins  during 


118 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  early  process  of  the  beam-house  than  by  the  actual  pro- 
cess of  tanning.  Skins  that  have  been  mistreated  in  the 
beam-house  will  never  make  good  leather,  no  matter  what 
tannage  is  used.  Unless  the  materials  used  in  tanning  the 
skins  are  thoroughly  removed  from  them,  they  will  ferment 
in  the  leather,  and  not  only  make  it  greasy,  but  will  cause 
white  spots  to  appear  upon  the  grain,  resembling  mildew. 
The  alkaline  fat-liquors  tend  to  counteract  acidity  in  the 
skins  to  some  extent,  but  they  never  entirely  remove  it 
until  the  cause  is  removed. 

Some  tanners  of  goatskins  after  washing  them  thoroughly 
in  borax  water  place  them  for  a  few  hours  in  a  hot  bath  of 
sumac.  This  serves  to  bleach  the  skins,  to  fill  them  some- 
what, and  to  soften  them,  giving  them  a  soft,  smooth  feel. 
The  treatment  of  chrome  leather  with  any  substance  con- 
taining tannin  tends  to  open  the  grain  somewhat,  and  when 
the  tannin  solution  is  too  strong,  to  roughen  the  grain. 

While  salt  serves  a  very  useful  purpose  in  chrome  tan- 
ning, its  use  in  excessive  quantities  makes  the  leather  too 
soft  and  open.  Instead  of  using  large  quantities  of  salt,  it 
is  better  to  use  not  more  than  six  pounds  of  salt  for  each 
hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  to  start  the  skins  in  a  weak 
chrome  liquor  and  to  gradually  strengthen  it.  This  pro- 
cedure prevents  the  drawing  of  the  grain  and  avoids  mak- 
ing the  leather  soft  and  open. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


THE  FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS 
INTO  COLORED  AND  BLACK,  GLAZED 
AND  DULL  LEATHER. 

The  finishing  of  goatskins  that  have  been  tanned  by  a 
chrome  process  into  colored  or  black  leather  involves  a 
number  of  processes,  the  objects  of  which  are  to  give  to  the 
skins  the  desired  color,  degree  of  softness  and  pliability, 
uniformity  of  thickness,  and,  in  the  case  of  glazed  leather, 
the  smooth  and  bright  face  surface. 

After  the  washing  of  the  skins  is  completed,  the  skins 
should  be  well  struck  out  by  hand  or  on  machine,  or  they 
may  be  pressed  or  wrung,  in  order  to  remove  from  them  as 
much  of  the  surplus  water  as  possible. 

When  struck  out  or  pressed  the  skins  should  be  shaved, 
and  during  the  shaving  kept  from  all  stain  and  grease,  be- 
cause at  this  stage  of  the  process  the  skins  absorb  stain  and 
grease  readily,  and  these  interfere  with  the  coloring  and 
finishing.  By  the  shaving  the  skins  are  made  of  uniform 
thickness,  and  the  flesh  side  is  made  clean  and  smooth,  a 
necessary  condition  when  the  leather  is  to  receive  a  glazed 
finish. 

Black. 

When  the  grain  side  of  the  leather  is  to  be  dyed  black,  it 
is  customary  to  first  color  the  skins  blue  or  purple  upon  the 
flesh  side.  To  accomplish  this  various  methods  may  be 
used.  The  following  method  is  a  very  practical  one,  and 
produces  a  very  satisfactory  result.  The  skins  are  drummed 
in  a  sumac  liquor,  consisting  of  three  or  four  ounces  of  liquid 
extract  of  sumac  in  five  gallons  of  warm  water  for  each 
dozen  skins.    The  sumac  serves  as  a  mordant.    Then  the 

(119) 


120 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


skins  are  dyed  with  a  purple  aniline,  about  three  ounces 
of  the  same  being  required  by  each  dozen  skins.  After  the 
purple  aniline  has  been  applied,  the  skins  are  passed  through 
logwood,  hemolin  or  hsematine  liquor  and  then  blacked 
with  a  striker,  and  finally  dyed  with  a  fast  black  aniline  at 
a  temperature  of  130  degrees.  The  black  aniline  may  be 
omitted  and  the  grain  blacking  done  with  logwood  and 
striker.  This  procedure  leaves  the  skins  blue  upon  the 
flesh  and  black  upon  the  grain. 

The  grain  blacking  may  be  done  by  passing  the  skins 
through  a  coloring  machine,  or  by  folding  them  through 
the  centre,  grain  side  out,  and  working  them  through  the 
dye  in  trays  or  dye-boxes.  Palmetto  extract  may  be  used 
in  place  of  the  sumac  and  in  the  same  manner.  It  pre- 
pares the  skins  to  receive  any  dye  material,  and  makes  the 
grain  smooth  and  solid  and  less  liable  to  peel.  The  flesh 
side  of  the  skins  can  also  be  dyed  blue  or  purple  by  the  use 
of  solutions  of  logwood  and  borax  ;  blue  nigrosine  and  blue 
anilines  are  also  used.  Logwood  in  the  extract  or  powdered 
form  produces  good  results.  The  results  obtained  from  the 
use  of  the  pow^dered  logwood  are  better  than  those  obtained 
from  the  use  of  chips,  since  the  powders  are  alwa3^s  uniform 
in  quality  and  strength.  When  paste  extract  is  once  frozen 
the  color  produced  is  not  at  all  satisfactory,  being  a  muddy 
gray  black.  The  powder  as  it  cannot  be  frozen  always  pro- 
duces good  results.  About  six  pounds  of  logwood  powder 
dissolved  in  warm  water  with  one  pound  of  borax  or  sal 
soda,  and  brought  to  the  boiling  point,  give  a  liquor  of 
sufficient  strength.  If  this  proves  too  strong  it  is  an  easy 
matter  to  reduce  the  quantity  of  dye  used.  This  solution 
may  be  used  for  coloring  the  flesh  blue.  A  good  color  can 
also  be  obtained  by  adding  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  methyl 
violet  aniline.  In  about  thirty  gallons  of  logwood,  three 
ounces  of  the  aniline,  and  two  ounces  of  nigrosine  may  be 
used.  The  skins  should  be  drummed  in  this  liquor  until 
the  color  is  well  taken  up  and  developed  and  then  placed 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  121 

on  a  table  and  a  striker  of  iron  liquor  applied  to  the  grain. 
This  gives  a  blue  flesh  and  black  grain.  Ten  gallons  of 
liquor  prepared  as  above  are  enough  for  one  hundred  pounds 
of  leather.  The  skins  may  also  be  passed  through  the 
striker  in  dye  boxes  or  run  through  a  machine.  ' 

The  method  of  getting  a  blue  flesh  with  nigrosine 
Is  as  follows :  For  each  dozen  skins,  medium  size,  from  two 
to  three  ounces  of  blue  nigrosine  are  boiled  for  a  few 
minutes  in  two  gallons  of  water.  This  is  added  to  the 
skins  in  the  drum  at  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  degrees  and  the  skins  drummed  in  the  color  for 
thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  color  has  been  well  taken  up. 
Unless  the  leather  is  thoroughly  washed  after  tanning,  the 
blue  color  will  not  penetrate  as  it  ought  to.  The  water  is 
next  drained  off,  the  leather  pressed  or  struck  out  and  is 
then  ready  for  the  fat-liquor.  When  logwood  is  used  a 
black  on  the  grain  is  obtained  by  the  use  of  an  iron  liquor 
or  a  liquor  made  of  copperas.  A  good  liquor  or  striker  for 
the  purpose  is  made  of  four  and  one-half  pounds  of  copperas, 
one  and  one-half  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  dissolved  by  boiling 
in  forty  gallons  of  water.  A  stronger  liquor  is  generally 
used  in  machine  dyeing — twelve  pounds  of  copperas  and 
four  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  to  forty  gallons  of  water.  To 
the  first  formula  add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  ground 
nutgalls  and  one  pound  of  epsom  salts  to  each  six  pounds 
of  copperas  and  blue  vitriol  combined.  When  the  skins 
are  dyed  upon  tables  a  small  quantity  of  ammonia  should 
be  added  to  each  pailful  of  logwood  dye.  This  is  applied 
to  the  skin  and  well  rubbed  in,  then  the  striker  is  applied, 
the  skin  struck  out  again,  more  dye  applied  and  more 
striker.  The  skins  are  next  washed  off  in  warm  water  and 
again  struck  out. 

The  fat-liquoring  and  grain-blacking  may  be  accom- 
plished in  one  operation.  The  black  is  composed  of  warm 
logwood  liquor  in  which  are  dissolved  five  pounds  gum 


122 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


arabic.  In  another  vessel  are  dissolved  eight  pounds  of 
copperas.  Into  twenty-five  gallons  of  strong  logwood  liquor 
are  mixed  the  gum  and  copperas  solution.  After  the  fat- 
liquoring  has  been  accomplished  this  black  liquor  is  added 
to  the  skins  in  the  drum,  and  the  skins  drummed  therein 
for  five  minutes,  after  which  they  are  washed  in  cold  water, 
and  struck  out  either  by  hand  or  on  the  machine. 

The  leather  can  also  be  blacked  by  dyeing  on  a  machine, 
by  brushing  as  has  been  suggested,  or  it  may  be  folded 
and  dyed  in  dye  boxes  as  follows  :  The  skins  are  folded 
through  the  center  and  smoothed  out  with  a  glass  slicker, 
so  that  no  blacking  will  reach  the  blue  fiesh  and  mar  its 
appearance.  The  skins  are  passed  first  through  warm  log- 
wood liquor  and  then  through  the  striker  in  dilute  form, 
washed  off"  and  finished  in  the  usual  way.  A  few  fustic 
chips  boiled  with  logwood  liquor  intensify  the  black. 

THE  USE  OF  PERMANGANATE  OF  POTASH  IN  COLORING 
LEATHER. 

One  important  advantage  gained  from  the  use  of  per- 
manganate of  potash  is  that  about  one-half  the  quantity  of 
logwood  liquor  usually  employed  will  be  found  sufficient. 
This  effects  a  considerable  saving. 

The  beneficial  effects  of  permanganate  of  potash  to 
chrome-tanned  goatskins  intended  for  glazed  kid  must  be 
apparent  to  those  who  have  given  it  a  careful  trial.  The 
question  is  how  to  apply  it  to  the  leather  with  the  least 
trouble  and  labor  to  produce  the  best  results.  Either  of  two 
methods  may  be  followed. 

1st.  In  a  reel  containing  650  gallons  of  water  add  five 
pounds  of  permanganate  of  potash,  which  has  been  pre- 
viously dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water.  The  temperature  of 
the  bath  should  be  about  one  hundred  and  ten  degrees  Fah. 
The  skins  upon  coming  from  the  tanning  liquors  are  thor- 
oughly washed  and  are  then  entered  into  the  above  bath. 
After  remaining  in  the  bath  with  the  paddles  revolving  for 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  123 


about  thirty  minutes,  the  stock  is  removed,  horsed  up  for 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  and  the  usual  operations  of  stain- 
ing, fat-liquoring  and  coloring  may  now  be  proceeded  with 
in  the  ordinary  manner.  This  treatment  with  permanga- 
nate of  potash  kills  all  traces  of  sulphurous  acid  in  the 
skins,  therefore  it  is  not  necessary  to  use  alkalies  such  as 
soda  or  borax  in  the  water  in  which  skins  are  washed  from 
the  reducing  bath,  as  is  generally  the  practice.  Or  the  per- 
manganate may  be  applied  to  the  stock  in  this  manner. 

2nd.  After  tanning,  wash  the  skins,  stain  and  fat-liquor 
them  in  the  usual  manner.  The  skins  are  then  smoothed 
out  with  a  slicker,  and,  after  being  folded,  grain  side  out, 
each  skin  is  dipped  into  a  bath  consisting  of  a  solution  of 
permanganate  of  potash,  which  is  prepared  in  the  following 
manner :  Five  pounds  of  permanganate  of  potash  are  dis- 
solved in  thirty  gallons  of  water  to  form  a  stock  solution. 
Of  this  stock  solution  one  gallon  is  mixed  with  twelve  gal- 
lons of  water,  which  forms  a  bath  capable  of  treating  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins.  In  preparing  the  bath  in  the 
first  instance  the  percentage  of  permanganate  solution  may 
be  increased  to  about  two  gallons ;  but  after  treating  the 
first  batch  of  skins,  an  addition  of  one  gallon  of  the  solu- 
tion for  each  subsequent  batch  of  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins  will  be  sufficient  to  maintain  the  bath  at  the  proper 
strength.  After  allowing  the  stock  to  be  drained  well,  the 
final  coloring  may  then  be  proceeded  with  in  the  ordinary 
manner,  except  that  one-half  the  usual  quantity  of  logwood 
liquor  will  be  sufficient.  If  the  permanganate  does  not  ap- 
pear to  strike  evenly  and  the  stock  shows  any  indications 
of  spots,  streaks  or  teeth,  a  little  salts  of  tartar  should  be 
added  to  the  bath,  or  the  stock  solution  may  be  prepared 
by  dissolving  five  pounds  of  permanganate  and  two  and 
one-half  pounds  of  salts  of  tartar  in  thirty  gallons  of  water. 
The  workmen  who  dip  the  stock  in  the  permanganate 
liquor  should  wear  rubber  gloves. 

The  advantages  resulting  from  this  process  are  that  a  fine 


124 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


base  or  foundation  for  the  color  is  formed  ;  the  grain  of  the 
leather  appears  smoothed  down  ;  all  roughness,  stringiness, 
beardiness  lessened,  and  presenting  when  glazed  a  smooth, 
fine,  unctuous  feel,  a  brilliant,  lustrous  color  and  a  high 
clear  finish. 

The  methods  employed  in  coloring  the  skins,  after  they 
have  been  treated  with  permanganate  of  potash,  vary,  de- 
pending upon  the  color  or  the  shade  that  is  desired.  Skins 
treated  with  permanganate  of  potash  may  be  colored  any 
shade  of  color.  For  tan  shades,  the  preliminary  treatment 
of  the  skins  may  be  with  a  solution  of  tanning  material 
such  as  sumac  or  gambler,  and  after  this  has  been  applied 
to  the  skins,  the  permanganate  of  potash  is  applied,  and 
this  is  followed  by  an  application  of  aniline  dye  of  the  de- 
desired  shade.  By  subjecting  skins  to  this  treatment,  more 
permanent  and  uniform  results  are  obtained.  The  process 
is  applicable  to  skins  tanned  by  the  use  of  alum,  bark  or 
other  materials  as  well  as  to  chrome-tanned  skins.  It  has 
been  used  in  practice,  however,  mostly  upon  goatskins  in- 
tended for  glazed  kid. 

This  process  is  patented  by  W.  N.  Morris,  Princeton,  N.  J. 

COLORING  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS  WITH  ANILINE  DYES. 

Chrome-tanned  goatskins  are  readily  colored  any  shade 
with  aniline  dyes,  provided  they  are  first  properly  prepared 
to  receive  the  dye,  and  the  right  materials  and  methods  are 
used  in  the  coloring  operations.  There  are  numerous 
methods  used  by  practical  leather  dyers  in  their  work. 
These  methods,  of  course,  vary  according  to  the  experience 
of  the  operator,  each  dyer  having  learned  by  personal  ex- 
perience the  best  method  adapted  to  his  particular  needs. 
The  most  common  method  of  preparing  this  class  of  leather 
for  the  reception  of  aniline  dyes,  is  by  the  use  of  tanning 
extracts,  such  as  sumac,  hemlock,  palmetto  and  gambler, 
applied  as  mordants. 

Before  any  attempt  is  made  at  coloring  the  skins,  how- 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  125 

ever,  it  is  very  essential  that  they  be  thoroughly  washed  in 
order  to  rid  them  of  all  acids  and  salts  acquired  during  the 
process  of  tanning.  This  washing  needs  to  be  very  thor- 
ough ;  and  before  the  skins  are  colored  they  are  generally 
shaved  and  made  of  uniform  thickness  and  smooth  and 
clean  upon  the  flesh.  During  the  processes  of  washing, 
pressing  or  striking  out,  and  shaving  the  skins  should  be 
kept  from  contact  with  stain  and  grease,  which  are  readily 
absorbed  by  them  at  this  stage  of  the  work  and  interfere 
with  the  subsequent  coloring  and  finishing. 

The  tanning  materials  used  as  mordants  frequently  con- 
tain gummy  matter  which  causes  spots  to  appear  upon  the 
leather.  To  avoid  this,  the  solution  should  be  carefully 
strained  before  it  is  used.  Perhaps  the  most  commonly 
used  tanning  material  in  coloring  chrome-tanned  goat- 
skins is  sumac.  This  article  by  reason  of  the  small  amount 
of  coloring  matter  that  it  contains  is  naturally  adapted  to 
the  production  of  light  and  fancy  shades.  It  is  used  in 
various  ways.  Upon  small  and  medium  size  skins,  about 
four  ounces  of  liquid  extract  of  sumac  may  be  used,  for 
each  dozen  skins.  The  sumac  is  mixed  with  water  at  a 
temperature  of  110  degrees  Fah.,  and  the  skins  may  be 
drummed  in  the  liquor  so  prepared  for  twenty  minutes. 
Dry  powdered  sumac  is  also  used.  After  the  skins  have 
been  washed  and  shaved  they  are  run  in  a  pin  mill  drum 
in  a  bath  of  warm  water  at  a  temperature  of  110  degrees, 
to  which  about  two  pounds  of  the  sumac  have  been  added. 
The  particles  of  sumac  serve  the  very  useful  purpose  of 
taking  up  any  free  grease  upon  the  grain  of  the  skins,  as 
well  as  acting  as  a  mordant  by  giving  up  tannic  acid. 

The  skins  may  also  be  prepared  for  coloring  in  the  following 

manner  : 

Two  hundred  pounds  of  well-washed  and  shaved  leather 
are  placed  in  a  drum  containing  about  sixty  gallons  of 
water  at  a  temperature  of  95  degrees  F.,  and  a  solution 


126 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


of  sumac  extract  prepared  of  six  to  eight  pounds  of  ex- 
tract and  four  to  six  gallons  of  hot  water.  After  the 
drum  has  been  set  in  motion,  about  one-third  of  the  above 
solution  is  added,  and  the  remainder  when  all  the  tannin 
has  been  extracted.  After  thirty  or  forty  minutes'  drum- 
ming, the  skins  will  have  absorbed  all  the  tannin,  and  the 
exhausted  liquor  may  then  be  run  off.  After  this  the  skins 
are  washed  for  about  fifteen  minutes  with  cold  or  lukewarm 
water,  then  struck  out  or  pressed  without  being  allowed  to 
dry  out. 

Chrome-tanned  skins  must  in  every  instance  be  colored  before 

they  become  dry, 
As  no  method  has  yet  been  discovered  by  which  the  dried 
skins  can  be  colored.  Instead  of  sumac  extract,  a  fresh 
infusion  of  sumac  leaves  may  be  employed  ;  and  when 
dark  shades  are  to  be  dyed,  the  sumac  may  partly,  up  to 
two-thirds,  be  replaced  advantageously  by  cube  gambler  or 
terra  japonica.  The  skins  may  also  be  treated  with  sumac 
in  tubs  or  vats,  by  being  left  for  some  hours  in  a  warm 
bath  of  the  same.  The  quantity  of  sumac  used  may  be  the 
same  as  above  suggested,  the  material  being  mingled  with 
warm  water  in  a  tub  or  vat,  instead  of  a  drum.  From  the 
sumac  bath  the  skins  are  washed  off.  This  procedure  gives 
the  skins  a  very  light  color,  in  fact,  when  skins  are  treated 
in  this  way  and  are  dried  and  finished  without  coloring,  they 
make  nearly  white  leather.  The  sumac  tends  to  soften  the 
skins,  besides  serving  as  a  mordant.  After  skins  have  been 
treated  with  sumac,  they  should  be  given  a  solution  of 
either  tartar  emetic  or  antimonine,  by  which  all  uncom- 
bined  tannin  is  overcome,  the  grain  of  the  skin  is  cleared, 
and  the  aniline  dye  is  fastened  evenly  and  firmly  upon  the 
leather. 

Fustic. 

A  material  very  frequently  used  as  a  mordant  or  base 
for  aniline  dyes  upon  chrome-tanned  goat-skins  is  fustic. 


FINISHING  OF   CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  127 

This  is  used  in  extract  form  in  much  the  same  manner  as 
sumac  is  used.  Five  ounces  of  the  liquid  extract  of  fustic 
used  for  each  dozen  skins  of  medium  size,  produce  good  re- 
sults. It  may  be  used  for  either  light  or  dark  shades.  For 
very  dark  shades,  such  as  chocolate,  dark  tans,  etc.,  it  may 
be  used  in  equal  parts,  with  a  pure  logwood  extract  liquor. 
The  skins  may  be  drummed  in  the  liquor  at  a  temperature 
of  110  degrees  F.  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  they  may  be  pad- 
dled or  stirred  about  in  the  same  for  thirty  minutes. 

Gambler  and  hemlock  extract  are  sometimes  used  in 
coloring  chrome  leather,  but  not  so  frequently  as  sumac  or 
fustic. 

Palmetto  extract  as  a  mordant. 
Very  good  results  are  obtained  from  palmetto  extract 
used  as  a  mordant.  This  material  is  a  good  fastener 
of  aniline  dyes,  and  by  its  use  the  grain  is  made  solid  and 
less  liable  to  peel  than  when  some  other  extracts  are  used. 
The  grain  also  remains  smooth  and  does  not  roughen  or 
get  loose.  About  five  ounces  of  the  extract  may  be  used 
for  each  dozen  skins  at  a  temperature  of  110  degrees,  and 
the  skins  drummed  therein  for  twenty  minutes.  Or  the 
material  may  be  applied  to  the  skins  in  a  reel  or  vat.  For 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  weighed  after  shaving, 
slightly  less  than  one  pint  of  the  extract  is  required,  and 
may  be  applied  to  the  skins  either  by  dmmming  in  a  pin- 
mill  for  fifteen  minutes  or  by  paddling  in  a  reel  for  thirty 
minutes.  Palmetto  extract  also  neutralizes  any  acid  in  the 
skins ;  and  the  leather  treated  with  it  takes  even  cooling 
and  carries  the  fat-liquor  well.' 

Clearing  the  grain  of  grease. 
Goatskins  that  are  greasy  upon  the  grain  may  be  cleared 
of  such  grease  by  being  drummed  or  paddled  in  a  solution 
of  lactic  acid,  made  up  of  one  gallon  of  the  acid  mixed  with 
fifty  gallons  of  warm  water,  about  100  degrees  F.  In  this 
solution  the  skins  may  be  either  drummed  or  paddled  for 


128 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


thirty  minutes,  then  washed  thoroughly  with  water  before 
being  treated  with  the  mordant  or  coloring  materials.  The 
use  of  the  acid  solution  not  only  removes  surface  grease  but 
also  serves  to  open  up  the  grain  a  little,  thus  allowing  the 
dyeing  materials  to  go  on  evenly. 

The  following  instructions  are  practical  working  directions  for 
dyeing  chrome-tanned  goatskins 

Many  of  the  most  desirable  shades  with  aniline  dyes.  These 
instructions  will  in  every  instance  produce  satisfactory  re- 
sults when  they  are  carefully  and  intelligently  carried  out. 
The  skins,  previous  to  the  application  of  the  aniline  dye, 
may  be  mordanted  with  the  tanning  extracts  and  in  the 
manner  that  has  been  described.  This  work  is  best  done 
in  drums.  After  drumming  in  the  tannin  for  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  a  solution  of  tartar  emetic  or  of  antimonine 
may  be  added.  This  may  consist  of  about  two  ounces  of 
either  of  these  materials  dissolved  in  hot  water  for  each 
dozen  skins,  and  added  to  the  tannin  bath.  The  drumming 
is  then  continued  for  another  fifteen  minutes,  then  the  skins 
are  washed  off  in  clean  warm  water  and  are  ready  for  the 
color  bath.  The  objects  of  using  tartar  emetic  or  antimo- 
nine are  that  the  uncombined  tannin  resting  upon  the  grain 
of  the  skins  is  overcome,  the  grain  is  cleared  and  the  aniline 
dye  will  be  firmly  fastened  upon  the  leather.  The  two 
articles  are  very  similar  in  effect,  the  antimonine  being  the 
cheaper  article  of  the  two.  When  they  are  used  it  is  not 
necessary  to  use  any  other  article,  as  for  instance  bichromate 
of  potash  to  set  the  colors.  Drum  coloring  is,  in  almost 
every  instance,  the  preferred  method.  It  is  always  done 
before  the  skins  are  fat- liquored. 

As  the  skins  are  always  colored  before  they  are  dried  out 
and  finished,  and  as  the  drying-out  and  finishing  of  the 
leather  frequently  change  the  shade,  it  is  very  important 
that  the  dyer  knows  just  the  quantity  of  dye  to  use  in 
order  that  the  skins  will  come  out  the  required  color.  The 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  129 

quantity  of  dye-stuff  required  for  a  given  lot  of  skins  de- 
pends, of  course,  upon  the  size  of  the  skins,  large  skins  re- 
quiring more  dye  than  small  ones.  Before  proceeding  to 
carry  on  coloring  operations  on  any  extensive  scale  at  all, 
it  is  good  practice  for  the  dyer  to  make  a  few  experiments 
on  a  small  scale,  say,  with  one  or  two  dozen  skins,  and  in 
this  way  learn  the  exact  quantity  of  material  to  use. 

Particular  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  anilines  thor- 
oughly dissolved  before  they  are  used.  To  insure  even 
coloring,  the  color  solution  should  be  added  to  the  skins,  a 
portion  at-  a  time,  through  the  hollow  gudgeon  of  the  drum, 
and  after  all  the  dye  is  in,  the  skins  should  be  drummed 
for  at  least  fifteen  minutes. 

Ox-blood  shades. 

A  dark  rich  ox-blood  shade  is  obtained  on  chrome-tanned 
goatskins  by  mordanting  them  with  tannin  extract  at  a 
temperature  of  110  degrees,  followed  by  tartar  emetic  or 
antimonine.  The  dye  solution  may  consist  of  from  three  to 
six  ounces  of  aniline  amaranth,  3  R,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  skins,  and  from  one-eighth  to  one-fourth  of  an  ounce 
of  malachite  green.  When  tartar  emetic  or  antimonine  is 
not  used  to  set  the  color,  it  is  necessary  to  apply  to  the 
skins  after  they  have  been  drummed  in  the  color,  one  ounce 
of  bichromate  of  potash,  dissolved  in  hot  water  for  each 
dozen  skins  in  the  drum. 

Another  ox-blood  shade  is  obtained  by  applying  to  the 
prepared  skins,  in  a  solution  at  a  temperature  of  120  de- 
grees, three  ounces  of  amaranth  3  R  for  one  dozen  skins  of 
average  size.  This  produces  a  lighter  shade  of  ox -blood 
than  the  foregoing,  the  green  aniline  in  that  formula  being 
used  for  the  purpose  of  darkening  the  shade. 

A  correct  shade  of  ox-blood  may  be  obtained  on  two 
dozen  skins,  measuring  sixty  feet  to  the  dozen,  by  mor- 
danting them  with  a  solution  of  hypernic  extract,  prepared 
by  boiling  thoroughly  ten  pounds  of  hypernic  chips,  and 
9 


130 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


straining  the  solution,  and  adding  the  same  in  portions  to 
the  skins  in  the  drum.  In  place  of  hy pernio  chips,  solutions 
of  fustic,  sumac  or  palmetto  extract  may  be  used  with  good 
results.  The  skins  should  be  drummed  in  the  extract 
liquor  for  at  least  twenty  minutes,  and  longer  will  do  no 
harm.  Then  for  the  two  dozen  skins,  seven  ounces  of 
amaranth  3  R  are  dissolved  by  boiling  and  strained  and 
applied  to  the  skins  at  a  temperature  of  120  degrees.  After 
the  dye  is  in,  the  skins  may  be  drummed  for  twenty  min- 
utes, then  three  ounces  of  bichromate  of  potash  may  be 
dissolved  in  two  gallons  of  hot  water,  and  this  solution 
added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum  and  the  drumming  con- 
tinued for  ten  minutes  longer. 

By  a  combination  of  Bismarck  brown  and  Russian  red, 
another  good  ox-blood  shade  is  produced.  For  one  dozen 
skins  of  medium  size,  about  three  ounces  of  Russian  red 
are  dissolved,  and  to  this  solution  is  added  one  ounce  of 
Bismarck  brown.  The  color  solution  is  applied  to  the 
skins  in  the  usual  w^ay,  after  they  have  been  mordanted 
with  extract.  Russian  red,  used  alone,  produces  a  very 
pretty  shade  of  wine  color.  A  combination  solution  of  two 
and  one-half  ounces  of  amaranth  1  R  in  place  of  the 
amaranth  3  R,  and  one  ounce  of  chocolate  brown  also  pro- 
duces a  full,  clear  ox -blood  shade. 

BROWNS. 

A  desirable  chocolate  brown  may  be  secured  by  the  use 
of  three  ounces  of  Chocolate  Brown  270,  applied  after  the 
tannin  bath.  Leather  brown  F,  also  produces  a  desirable 
chocolate  shade  when  saddened  with  a  little  green  or  blue. 
Another  chocolate  is  obtained  in  the  following  manner  : 
For  one  dozen  skins,  five  ounces  of  liquid  extract  of  fustic 
are  used.  In  this  the  skins  are  drummed  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, then  the  tartar  emetic  or  the  antimonine  is  added,  and 
the  drumming  continued  for  another  fifteen  minutes,  after 
which  the  skins  are  washed  off"  and  colored  with  a  solution 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  131 

composed  of  the  following  dyes :  Four  ounces  of  phos- 
phine  for  leather ;  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  of  leather 
green,  M  ;  one-half  ounce  of  methyl  violet,  2  B.  The  dyes 
must  be  thoroughly  dissolved  and  well  mixed  together 
before  they  are  used.  Various  shades  of  brown  result  from 
solutions  of  phosphine  for  leather  saddened  with  varying 
quantities  of  blue,  green  and  purple  aniline.  Also  by  a 
combination  of  phosphine  for  leather  and  leather  brown, 
in  the  proportions  of  one-third  as  much  of  the  latter  as 
the  former. 

TAN  SHADES. 

The  number  of  tan  shades  that  can  be  obtained  with 
aniline  dyes  is  almost  unlimited.  Tobacco  Brown  produces 
a  good  shade,  as  does  also  Bismarck  Brown  when  combined 
with  Phosphine  and  saddened  with  Neutral  Blue.  Bismarck 
Brown  and  a  violet  aniline  also  produce  a  yellow  brown. 
New^  Phosphine  G.  when  used  alone  and  not  in  combina- 
tion with  other  dyes,  gives  a  very  light,  clear  yellow  tan 
shade.  This  dye  material  is  of  great  value  to  the  leather 
dyer.  A  great  number  of  light  and  dark  shades  result 
from  its  use  in  conjunction  with  other  dyes  in  varying  pro- 
portions. It  is  exceedingly  fast  to  light.  Combined  with 
Methylene  Blue,  Pho=?phine  G  produces  a  greenish  tan 
shade,  very  pretty  and  well  developed. 

The  solidity  and  firmness  of  the  skins  may  be  slightly  increased 
By  washing  the  skins  as  they  come  from  the  tanning 
bath  in  a  solution  of  whiting  and  salt,  using  about  ten 
pounds  of  salt,  and  five  pounds  of  whiting  in  fifty  gallons 
of  water,  one-half  of  this  quantity  being  sufficient  for  one- 
hundred  pounds  of  leather.  The  skins  may  be  drummed 
in  this  for  one-half  hour,  then  washed  in  clean  water  until 
the  whiting  has  been  entirely  washed  off,  then  the  skins 
may  be  shaved  and  colored.  By  shaving  the  skins  before 
they  are  colored  a  saving  in  the  amount  of  dyestuff  is 
effected.    A  solution  of  lactic  acid  and  bichromate  of  potash 


132 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


in  warm  water  is  sometimes  made  use  of  in  mordanting  the 
skins.  It  may  consist  of  two  pounds  of  the  potash  and  one- 
half  gallon  of  the  acid  in  fifty  gallons  of  water.  The  skins 
are  drummed  in  this  for  twenty  minutes,  washed  off  and 
colored. 

To  a  great  extent  the  results  obtained  in  the  coloring  process  are 
influenced  and  determined  by  the  methods  employed  in  the 
processes  through  which  the  skirts  ham  been  worked 
previous  to  coloring, 

As  well  as  by  the  nature  and  quality  of  the  materials 
used  in  these  processes  and  the  care  and  skill  exercised  in 
using  them.  In  other  words,  the  relations  between  the  pro- 
cesses of  the  beamhouse  and  tannery  to  the  coloring  process 
are  very  close,  and  unless  the  former  processes  are  carried 
out  properly,  the  results  obtained  in  the  coloring  process 
will  not  be  satisfactory.  A  great  deal,  too,  naturally,  de- 
pends upon  the  quality  of  the  coloring  material  used. 
While  many  of  the  defects  frequently  met  with  on  colored 
leather  are  caused  by  improper  and  careless  methods  of 
dyeing,  they  are  also  frequently  the  results  of  carelessness 
or  ignorance  in  the  earlier  processes. 

Goatskins,  being  usually  hard  and  dry  and  salty  when  they  are 
received  at  the  tannery,  need  to  be  very  thoroughly  soaked 

and  softened  before  they  are  depilated  or  limed. 
Not  only  is  this  precaution  necessary  but  they  must  be  freed 
of  all  salt  and  dirt,  as  the  removal  of  these  materials  has  much 
to  do  with  the  production  of  bright  and  clear-grained  leather. 
At  the  same  time  the  skins  should  not  be  soaked  too  long, 
as  this  sometimes  results  in  loose  and  lifeless  leather.  Foul 
soaks  cannot  be  recommended  for  skins  intended  for  fancy 
colors,  as  the  grain  is  often  injured  in  such  soaks  in  such  a 
way  that  later  on  no  one  can  tell  what  caused  it  and  the 
blame  is  laid  upon  some  other  portion  of  the  work.  A 
shaded  and  spotted  grain  often  results  when  foul  soaks  are 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS. 


133 


used.  Fresh  clean  water  is  the  only  safeguard  against  such 
defects.  All  salt  in  the  skins  should  be  gotten  rid  of  as 
quickly  as  possible  during  soaking,  because  when  it  is  left 
in  the  skins  when  they  go  into  the  limes  it  is  liable  to  cause 
spotted  and  cloudy  grain. 

Chrome  tannages  do  not  fill  the  leather  as  vegetable  tannages  do, 

And  for  this  reason  some  care  must  be  exercised  in  handling 
the  skins  during  the  processes  of  the  beam-house  in  order 
to  prevent  loss  of  plumpness.  Sulphide  of  sodium  used 
with  lime  does  not  give  so  much  softness  to  the  skins 
as  red  arsenic,  and  therefore  is  not  so  good  for  goat  leather. 
Red  arsenic  used  in  combination  with  the  lime  brings  the 
skins  into  good  condition  for  unhairing,  and  also  dissolves 
the  amount  of  substance  required  to  make  the  leather  elastic 
and  soft  before  the  strength  of  the  fibres  has  been  weakened. 
The  grain  is  also  made  soft  and  smooth.  The  limes  should 
be  kept  perfectly  sweet  and  clean,  and  the  skins  during  the 
work  of  liming  and  unhairing  should  not  be  exposed  to  the 
air  any  more  than  is  absolutely  necessary,  nor  be  allowed  to 
become  dry  and  hard  in  spots  and  around  the  edges. 

Cleansing  of  lime. 

Another  necessary  element  in  the  making  of  fancy  colored 
leather  is  the  thorough  cleansing  of  the  stock  of  all  lime. 
Lime  is  the  great  enemy  of  the  colorman,  and  leather  con- 
taining it,  even  in  very  small  quantity,  never  colors  satisfac- 
torily. The  methods  employed  in  ridding  the  skins  of  lime 
are  always  of  much  importance,  and  when  the  latter  are  to  be 
colored  fancy  shades  the  methods  take  on  additional  signifi- 
cance. After  the  skins  have  been  thoroughly  cleansed  of 
lime  by  the  processes  of  bating  and  washing,  they  should 
be  thoroughly  slated  or  worked  upon  the  grain,  as  the 
cleaner  and  purer  the  grain  is  before  tanning,  the  brighter 
and  clearer  it  will  be  after  coloring  and  finishing.  The 
skins  must  be  thoroughly  tanned  and  no  raw  substance 


134 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


left  through  the  center.  Nothing  but  the  best  quality  of 
dyeing  materials  should  be  used,  as  the  best  leather  can  be 
readily  injured  by  poor  dyes.  Since  among  goatskins  there 
are  marked  differences  and  peculiarities  of  grain  and  fibre 
it  is  good  practice,  in  order  that  the  leather  may  color  uni- 
formly, to  sort  the  skins  according  to  texture  and  quality 
before  any  attempt  at  coloring  is  made.  In  order  to  classify 
the  skins  to  the  best  advantage  the  sorter  must  use  judg- 
ment and  experience,  since  the  sorting  is  largely  done  by 
the  feel  and  appearance  of  the  skins ;  the  quality  of  the 
grain,  whether  it  is  soft  and  smooth  or  rough  and  hard, 
determines  to  some  extent  into  which  class  and  color  a  skin 
should  go.  The  skins  that  are  loose  and  open  in  grain  and 
fibre  should  be  separated  out  from  those  that  are  close  and 
firm  and  colored  separately  from  them.  The  lighest-colored 
and  clearest-grained  skins  should  be  colored  the  fancy  light 
shades,  and  the  spotted  or  dark-colored  skins  be  worked 
into  black  or  dark  shades  of  color.  Many  small  defects 
that  might  appear  very  plainly  on  light-colored  leather  and 
reduce  its  value,  are  scarcely  discernible  in  dark  shades  or 
black. 

The  quality  of  the  water  used  in  the  coloring  process 

Has  much  to  do  with  results  obtained.  Very  hard  water 
sometimes  causes  a  faded  and  dingy  appearance  of  the  colors, 
and  when  such  water  is  used  in  dissolving  aniline  dyes  it  not 
infrequently  happens  that  a  portion  of  the  dye  settles  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel  in  the  form  of  a  soft  mass.  This  natur- 
ally causes  imperfect  coloring.  It  is  also  imperative  that 
the  water  be  clean  and  free  from  dirt  and  foreign  substances. 
The  undesirable  effects  of  hard  water  may  be  prevented  and 
such  water  better  adapted  for  coloring  purposes  by  being 
softened  by  the  addition  to  it  of  a  small  quantity  of  borax, 
which  being  a  gentle  alkali  assists  somewhat  in  giving  a 
soft  feel  to  the  leather.  The  amount  of  borax  to  be  used 
depends  upon  the  condition  of  the  water.    As  a  general 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  135 

rule  one-half  pound  is  enough  for  one  hundred  gallons  of 
water,  dissolved  in  a  separate  vessel  and  poured  into  the 
water  to  be  used  in  coloring.  The  best  water  that  can  be 
used  is  condensed  steam,  which  can  be  easily  collected  for 
use  by  placing  barrels  under  exhaust  steam  pipes.  This 
water  is  very  soft,  pure  and  clean.  When  aniline  dyes  are 
being  dissolved  care  should  be  taken  to  dissolve  them 
thoroughly  and  to  leave  no  sediment  in  the  vessel.  It  is 
well  to  have  the  water  heated  to  a  temperature  of  160 
degrees,  then  to  add  the  color  and  to  allow  it  to  go  into 
solution,  after  which  the  liquor  may  be  boiled  for  a  few 
minutes.  It  is  also  good  practice  to  strain  the  dye  solution 
before  applying  it  to  the  skin. 

COLORING  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS  WITH  SULFAMINE  DYES. 

Chrome-tanned  goatskins  are  very  satisfactorily  colored 
with  sulfamine  dyes.  These  dyes,  when  they  are  properly 
used,  produce  full,  clear  and  uniform  shades  of  color. 
They  are  not  used  in  the  same  manner  that  aniline  dyes 
are  used.  No  mordanting  with  tannic  acid  is  required.  It 
is  merely  necessary  to  thoroughly  wash  the  skins  after  they 
are  tanned,  in  order  to  rid  them  of  all  salts  and  acids  and 
to  get  them  in  perfectly  neutral  condition  before  applying 
the  dye.  The  skins  should  also  be  free  from  grease.  The 
dyeing  may  be  done  in  drums  or  reels,  such  as  are  in  com- 
mon use.  In  order  that  the  color  may  penetrate  readily,  a 
small  quantity  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  may  be  added  to 
the  dye  liquor,  but  this  must  be  neutralized  afterwards  by 
a  little  acetic  acid. 

The  following  instructions  are  practical  working  directions  for 
getting  several  very  desirable  shades  with  sulfamine  dyes. 
Browns  and  dark  tans :  A  very  desirable  dark  shade  of 
tan  is  obtained  by  using  for  each  dozen  skins  of  medium 
size,  21  ozs.  of  Sulfon  Brown  B.,  |  oz.  Sulfon  Carmine  B, 
J  oz.  Urania  Blue  B.    These  dyes  are  dissolved  in  boiling 


136 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


water,  a  small  quantity  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  is  added, 
and  the  color  solution  is  ready  for  use.  The  temperature 
of  the  dye  liquor  should  be  180  degrees,  and  the  skins 
may  be  drummed  for  fifteen  minutes  or  paddled  in  a  reel 
for  thirty  minutes. 

A  shade  of  tan  somewhat  similar  to  the  above,  differing 
only  by  being  a  shade  lighter,  is  obtained  on  one  dozen 
medium-size  skins  by  the  use  of  J  oz.  Urania  Blue,  IJ 
ozs.  Sulfamine  Orange  P,  2  ozs.  Sulfon  Brown  B,  used  in 
the  same  manner  as  above  suggested.  A  brownish-tan 
shade  is  obtained  by  the  use  of  If  ozs.  Sulfon  Brown  B, 
J  oz.  Urania  Blue  R.  Used  alone,  the  Sulfon  Brown  is 
a  little  too  fiery.  The  Urania  Blue  serves  to  sadden,  subdue 
and  darken  the  shade. 

A  dark  chocolate  is  obtained  by  the  combination  of  the 
following  dyes :  3  ozs.  Sulfon  Brown  B,  J  oz.  Sulfon  Car- 
mine B,  J  oz.  Urania  Blue.  The  penetration  of  the  dye 
liquor  is  hastened  by  adding  to  it  a  small  quantity  of 
Carbonate  of  Ammonia. 

A  chocolate  shade  is  also  secured  by  the  use  of  2  ozs. 
Sulfon  Brown  B,  |  oz.  Urania  Blue  B,  J  oz.  Sulfon  Car- 
mine B.  The  quantities  of  dyes  mentioned  are  usually  re- 
quired for  each  dozen  skins  of  medium  size.  V ery  large 
goatskins,  of  course,  require  more  dye. 

The  following  formulas  are  useful  in  getting  light  shades  of 
tan,  such  as  are  often  wanted  for  shoe  and  slipper  pur- 
poses. 2J  ozs.  Sulfon  Brown  G,  \  oz.  Urania  Blue  B. 
Slightly  different  is  the  following :  \  oz.  Urania  Blue  B,  f 
oz.  Sulfamine  Orange  P,  1  oz.  Sulfon  Brown  B.  A  yellow 
tan  results  from  the  use  of  IJ  ozs.  Sulfon  Brown  B,  \  oz. 
Urania  Blue  R.  This  shade  is  slightly  darker  than  the 
foregoing  :  |  oz.  Sulfon  Brown  B,  f  oz.  Sulfamine  Orange 
NO,  f  oz.  Haematine  Powder.  No  Carbonate  of  Ammonia 
is  required  in  this  last  formula. 

For  an  ox-hlood  shade,  deep,  rich  and  well  developed,  5J 
ozs.  Sulfon  Carmine  B,  \  oz.  Sulfamine  Yellow  D,  and  IJ 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  137 

ozs.  Hsematine  Powder  may  be  used.  A  small  quantity  of 
Carbonate  of  Ammonia  may  be  added  to  good  advantage. 
Another  ox-blood  formula  =  1 J  ozs.  Sulfon  Brown  B,  4} 
ozs.  Sulfon  Carmine  B,      ozs.  Haematine  Powder. 

Various  shades  of  green. 
By  the  use  of  the  following  combination  of  dyes  a  very 
pretty  bright  green  is  obtained  on  one  dozen  skins :  3f  ozs. 
Paranil  Yellow,  1}  ozs.  Blue  J  E,  |  oz.  Green  P.  For  a 
darker  shade  of  green  may  be  used,  1 J  ozs.  Blue  J  E,  2^  ozs. 
Paranil  Yellow.  Very  light  grass  greens,  2  ozs.  Yellow 
C  Y,  f  oz.  Green  P.  Also  for  a  slightly  darker  grass  green, 
ozs.  Green  G  A,  J  oz.  Sulfamine  Yellow  D.  A  dark 
olive  green  results  from  the  use  of  1  oz.  Sulfon  Brown  B, 
1  oz.  Blue  J  E,  or,  1  oz.  Sulfon  Brown  B,  1  oz.  Green  P. 

Fat-liquoring. 

The  skins,  after  being  colored,  should  be  fat-liquored  at 
once,  the  surplus  water  being,  of  course,  struck  or  pressed 
out  before  fat-liquoring.  The  fat-liquor  should  be  used  at 
a  temperature  of  120  degrees  F.,  and  the  skins  drummed 
therein  for  at  least  thirty  minutes.  Care  must  be  taken 
that  the  fat-liquor  is  neutral,  that  is,  containing  no  ex- 
cessive amount  of  alkali.  Some  dyes  are  readily  injured  by 
an  excess  of  alkali  in  the  fat-liquor.  A  very  good  neutral 
fat-liquor  capable  of  imparting  great  softness  and  smooth- 
ness to  chrome-tanned  goatskins  may  be  made  by  emulsi- 
fying egg-yolk  and  neatsfoot  oil. 

After  the  fat-liquoring  is  completed,  the  skins  are  struck 
out,  given  a  light  application  of  glycerine  and  water  upon 
the  grain,  followed  by  a  light  coat  of  oil,  and  then  dried 
out,  staked,  softened  and  finished. 

The  process  of  fat-liquoring. 
In  order  that  the  skins  after  being  colored  may  be 
finished  into  soft,  and  saleable  leather,  it  is  necessary  that 
they  be  suitably  treated  with  grease  in  order  that  they  may 


138 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


acquire  the  required  qualities  of  softness  and  strength. 
This  is  accomplished  by  the  process  of  fat-liquoring.  To  a 
great  extent  the  character  and  quality  of  the  finished 
leather  depends  upon  how  this  part  of  the  work  is  done. 
Nothing  can  be  used  that  will  even  in  a  small  degree  affect 
the  color,  or  cause  the  skins  to  be  streaked  or  spotted. 
Before  the  skins  are  fat-liquored  it  is  good  practice  to  sort 
them  according  to  texture  and  weight,  and  not  to  process 
heavy  and  light  skins  together. 

After  the  coloring  operations  are  completed  the  skins  are 
washed  off,  and  struck  out  or  pressed  as  dry  as  possible, 
and  yet  retaining  some  moisture.  A  suitable  pin  mill 
drum  is  heated  with  live  steam  to  about  140  degrees,  the 
condensed  steam  drained  off  and  the  leather  thrown  into 
the  drum.  The  drum  is  set  in  motion  and  the  skins 
drummed  therein  for  five  minutes  so  as  to  warm  them  up. 
Then  the  fat-liquor  is  added,  a  gallon  or  two  at  a  time,  until 
the  necessary  quantity  has  been  given  to  the  skins.  The 
drum  should  be  supplied  with  a  funnel  attached  to  the 
hollow  gudgeon,  so  that  the  fat-liquor  may  be  added  with- 
out stopping  the  drum.  A  fat-liquor  that  imparts  great 
softness  to  the  skins,  may  be  made  of  twenty  pounds  of 
alkali  soft  soap  and  forty  pounds  of  English  sod  oil  in  fifty 
gallons  of  water,  thoroughly  emulsified.  The  soap  should 
always  be  boiled  first  in  a  few  gallons  of  water,  then  the  oil 
added,  and  finally  enough  water  run  in  to  make  the  fifty 
gallons.  The  fat-liquor  should  be  used  hot,  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  from  120  to  160  degrees,  and  about  two  gallons  used 
for  each  dozen  small  skins. 

A  very  good  fat-liquor  is  made  as  folloivs  : 
Ten  pounds  of  soap,  four  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  and 
six  pounds  of  egg-yolk  in  fifty  gallons  of  water.  Be- 
fore the  egg-yolk  is  added  the  temperature  of  the  soap  and 
oil  emulsion  should  be  reduced  to  about  ninety  degrees,  in 
order  to  prevent  coagulation  of  the  albumin  of  the  egg-yolk. 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  139 

From  two  to  three  gallons  of  this  fat-liquor  are  also  required 
for  each  dozen  skins,  and  sometimes  more.  Fine  light 
skins  may  also  be  fat-liquored  by  the  use  of  one  pint  of  egg 
yolk  and  one-half  pint  of  olive  oil  for  each  dozen  skins. 
Any  excess  of  water  should  be  guarded  against  in  the 
leather,  as  too  much  moisture  prevents  the  uniform  absorp- 
tion of  the  fat-liquor.  After  the  fat-liquor  has  been  applied 
to  the  skins,  they  should  be  drummed  therein  for  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes,  after  which  they  should  be  laid  in  piles 
or  thrown  smoothly  over  horses  for  twenty-four  hours,  so 
that  the  fat-liquor  taken  up  will  have  an  opportunity  to 
combine  with  the  leather  fibres. 

Striking  out. 

The  skins  should  next  be  struck  out  upon  the  grain  and 
given  a  light  coat  of  glycerine  and  water,  equal  parts  of 
each.  This  is  put  on  with  a  rag  or  sponge  and  applied 
evenly  over  the  grain.  This  gives  a  smooth,  soft  feel  to  the 
leather,  and  helps  in  the  final  finishing.  The  next  step  is 
to  again  strike  the  skins  out,  and  to  apply  to  the  grain  a 
light  coat  of  oil.  The  skins  should  be  very  thoroughly 
struck  out,  all  wrinkles  and  marks  of  the  machine  or  tool 
removed  and  the  grain  laid  down  flat  and  smooth.  The 
oil  that  is  applied  is  the  last  of  the  subsequent  finishing, 
and  should  be  of  good  quality,  free  from  any  tendency  to 
gum  or  spew.  The  water  should  be  well  pressed  out  of  the 
leather  before  the  oil  is  applied,  so  that  the  latter  can 
readily  penetrate  into  the  body  of  the  skin,  where  it  will 
remain  and  add  strength  to  the  fibres.  The  next  operation 
is  the  drying  out  of  the  leather.  After  this  the  skins  are 
dampened  and  worked  soft  by  staking,  and  the  staking  and 
drying  are  repeated  until  the  leather  is  sufficiently  soft  and 
perfectly  dry.  It  is  generally  best  to  dry  colored  leather  in 
a  darkened  room,  as  strong  light  frequently  causes  the 
colors  to  fade.  The  skins  should  be  dried  out  rapidly  in  a 
moderately  warm  room.  After  drying  and  staking  the 
leather  is  ready  for  the  operations  of  glazing  or  ironing. 


140 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


GLAZING  AND  FINISHING. 

A  great  many  leather  finishers  buy  their  seasonings  in- 
stead of  making  them.  Levant  inks  are  a  very  superior 
class  of  finishes,  and  may  be  obtained  in  great  variety  suit- 
able for  all  the  various  kinds  of  leather.  They  are  not 
injured  by  frost,  and  produce  excellent  results.  In  finish- 
ing skins  into  dull  finish,  they  are  given  a  coat  of  the  sea- 
soning, and  this  is  well  rubbed  into  the  leather.  While 
slightly  moist,  the  skins  are  rolled  or  ironed.  Sometimes 
the  seasoning  and  ironing  are  repeated.  The  grain  is  thus 
made  soft  and  smooth.  For  light-colored  leather,  a  color- 
less seasoning  is  used,  while  upon  black  leather  black 
seasonings  are  used,  and  by  reason  of  the  logwood  and 
nigrosine  they  contain,  the  color  of  the  leather  is  deepened 
and  improved.  In  many  instances  the  grain  must  be 
cleared  of  greasy  matter.  For  this  purpose,  a  solution  of 
vinegar  and  bichromate  of  potash  is  used  ;  also  a  dilute 
solution  of  lactic  acid.  To  ten  gallons  of  water,  two  or 
three  gallons  of  vinegar  and  a  few  ounces  of  the  potash 
may  be  added.  Or,  to  four  gallons  of  water,  one  gallon  of 
lactic  acid.  Either  of  these  solutions  produces  good  results, 
applied  before  seasoning,  and  well  rubbed  into  the  grain 
of  the  leather.  After  drying,  the  leather  is  seasoned  either 
with  the  prepared  seasoning  or  with  the  liquor  that  the 
finisher  prepares  himself.  On  black  leather,  a  seasoning 
made  of  the  following  ingredients  and  in  the  proportions 
named,  produces  a  bright,  clear,  glazed  finish :  Prepared 
blood,  one  gallon  ;  strong  nigrosine  liquor,  one-half  gallon  ; 
blue-stone,  one-half  gallon  ;  iron,  one  ounce  ;  logwood,  one- 
half  gallon. 

This  liquor  may  be  diluted  or  used  without  dilution,  as 
circumstances  require.  Two  or  three  coats  of  the  liquor  are 
usually  required  to  get  a  perfect  finish,  thoroughly  rubbed 
into  the  leather,  dried  and  glazed  between  each  applica- 
tion.   It  is  important  that  the  seasoning  be  well  rubbed 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  141 

into  the  leather,  the  contrary  of  this  often  causing  a  gray 
bottom  to  the  finish.  Another  seasoning  liquor  may  be 
prepared  by  blacking  five  gallons  of  logwood  liquor  with  a 
few  ounces  of  copperas.  To  this  are  added  one  and  one- 
half  pints  of  blood,  five  ounces  of  glycerine  and  eight 
ounces  of  ammonia. 

To  glaze  colored  leather,  the  following  seasoning  may  be 
used  :  Ten  gallons  of  water,  one-half  ounce  bichromate  of 
potash,  two  pints  of  acetic  acid,  and  two  gallons  of  egg  albu- 
men solution.  This  is  good  for  the  first  seasoning.  For  the 
second  seasoning,  ten  gallons  of  water,  six  gallons  of  blood 
and  four  pints  of  vinette  produce  good  results. 

The  skins  should  be  perfectly  dry  before  any  attempt  is 
made  at  glazing  them,  and  if  they  are  warm  as  well  as  dry, 
the  finish  will  come  up  ver}^  bright  and  clear  with  little 
machine  work.    The  less  seasoning  or  glazing  liquor  is 
used  to  make  a  bright,  clear  finish,  the  better  it  is,  as  the 
leather  stands  handling  and  wetting  better  than  when  large 
quantities  of  seasoning  are  applied.    After  the  glazing  is 
completed,  the  leather  may  receive  a  light  coat  of  oil,  the 
quantity  used  depending  upon  the  condition  of  the  leather. 
Very  little  oil  is  used,  the  skins  being  merely  wiped  over 
with  an  oily  sponge  or  rag.    The  results  of  this  light  oiling 
are  that  the  finish  will  stand  moisture  better  than  when  no 
oil  is  used.    The  oil  should  be  of  good  quality  ;  low  grade 
oils  frequently  cause  injury  to  the  leather  by  reason  of  de- 
composing in  the  leather  and  spewing  out  upon  the  surface 
in  the  form  of  white  greasy  spots  that  damage  the  finish. 
This  light  oiling  completes  the  process,  and  the  leather  is 
ready  for  the  market. 

A  PROCESS  FOR  KID  GLOVE  LEATHER. 

Kid-glove  leather  of  very  fine  quality  and  strength  may 
be  made  by  applying  the  following  formula  to  the  prepared 
skins :  Five  pounds  of  alum,  two  pounds  of  salt,  twenty 


142 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


pounds  of  wheat  flour  and  twelve  pounds  of  egg  yolk,  for 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  drained  and  weighed 
after  the  final  washing.  The  ingredients  are  made  into  a 
paste-like  liquor  with  twelve  gallons  of  lukewarm  water,  and 
applied  to  the  skins  in  a  drum.  The  skins  are  drummed 
in  the  same  for  one  hour,  or  until  they  have  absorbed  all 
the  ingredients  of  the  paste.  They  are  then  hung  up  and 
dried  out  and  left  in  the  dry  condition  for  some  months 
before  they  are  worked  out  and  finished.  By  being  stored 
away,  the  skins  become  thoroughly  tanned  and  eventually 
work  out  into  very  superior  leather.  In  the  place  of  the 
egg  yolk,  the  soluble  oil  known  as  Turkey-red  oil  may  be 
used  with  good  results.  Some  carbolic  acid,  salicylic  acid 
or  tar  oil  may  be  added  to  the  oil  solution  to  prevent  the 
heating  of  the  oil-stufi'ed  skins  while  they  are  stored  to  cure. 
Skins  treated  as  above  may  be  finally  worked  out  and  fin- 
ished into  glove  material  without  further  tanning.  They 
may  also  be  moistened  and  washed  in  warm  soft  water  and 
re-tanned  in  a  drum  with  a  one-bath  chrome  liquor,  then 
colored  and  finished  as  chrome  leather.  No  fat-liquoring 
is  required  after  the  chrome  tanning,  as  the  leather  works 
out  very  soft  and  strong. 

Kid-glove  leather  may  also  be  made  by  tawing 

The  skins  with  alum  and  salt,  or  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt, 
in  a  drum,  and  then,  without  removing  the  skins  from  the 
drum,  applying  to  them  the  chrome  liquor.  After  chrome 
tanning,  the  skins  should  be  thoroughly  washed,  colored 
and  then  fat-liquored  with  a  mixture  of  olive  oil  and  egg 
yolk  and  flour.  A  fat-liquor  of  soap,  oil  and  flour  may 
also  be  used.  The  Turkey-red  oil  may  be  used  as  a  fat- 
liquor  upon  chrome-tanned  skins  also. 

Skins  from  which  the  grain  has  been  removed  after  liming, 

Such  as  mochas,  etc.,  may  be  readily  prepared  for  tan- 
ning into  leather  by  being  drenched  in  a  drum,  in  a  solu- 


FINISHING  OF  CHROME-TANNED  GOATSKINS.  143 

tion  of  lactic  acid,  one  gallon  of  the  same  mixed  into  one 
hundred  gallons  of  warm  water,  90  degrees  F.  The 
drenching  consumes  from  twenty  minutes  to  one-half  hour, 
and  the  skins  may  then  be  washed  and  are  ready  for  tan- 
ning. The  methods  of  tanning  that  have  been  described 
for  tanning  skins  with  the  grain  on  may  be  applied  in  the 
same  manner  upon  skins  from  which  the  grain  has  been 
removed. 

The  essential  qualities  of  glove  leather  are  softness,  fine- 
ness of  texture  and  strength.  These  are  largely  obtained 
by  the  methods  employed  in  preparing  the  skins  for  tan- 
ning, liming,  drenching,  etc.  The  liming  should  be  long 
and  thorough,  and  the  bating  or  drenching  also. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS. 

DONGOLA  TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS. 

Very  desirable  leather  is  made  by  what  is  commonly 
called  the  Dongola  process,  or  tannage.  This  tannage  is 
especially  applicable  to  sheep  and  goatskins,  and  produces 
from  the  former  a  leather  that  very  closely  resembles  gen- 
uine goatskin,  although  of  course  sheepskin  leather,  no 
matter  how  skillfully  it  is  tanned,  never  possesses  the  quali- 
ties that  distinguish  goatskin  leather.  The  dongola  tan- 
nage usually  consists  of  salt,  alum  and  gambler,  although 
other  tanning  materials  are  sometimes  used  in  place  of  the 
gambler.  Palmetto  extract,  one  of  the  newer  tannins,  is  a 
good  substitute  for  gambler,  as  it  produces  soft,  tough  and 
well  filled  leather  at  less  cost  than  when  gambler  is  used. 
Owing  to  the  fullness  and  firmness  of  dongola  leather,  this 
leather  has  always  been  and  is  now  a  desirable  one  to  be 
used  in  the  tops  of  shoes,  where  a  stand-up  quality  is  espe- 
cially desired.  Only  the  better  grades  of  sheepskins  are 
used  for  this  class  of  leather,  that  is,  skins  of  considerable 
size  and  good  substance,  and  with  a  fine,  smooth  grain. 

Soaking. 

As  in  all  other  processes  of  tanning  pelts  or  skins,  the 
first  operation  is  soaking.  Sheep  pelts  are  generally  not 
heavily  salted,  and  consequently  do  not  need  long  soaking, 
from  ten  to  fifteen  hours  being  usually  sufficient.  After 
the  pelts  have  been  soaking  for  a  few  hours  in  the  water,  a 
good  practice  is  to  haul  them  out  and  let  the  dirty  and 
saltv  water  drain  off,  then  to  soak  them  for  a  few  hours 

(144) 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  145 

longer  in  clean  water.  This  procedure  thoroughly  softens 
and  cleanses  the  skins.  Before  the  pelts  are  depilated  the 
water  should  be  well  gotten  rid  of  either  by  draining  or  by 
extraction. 

Goatskins  are  usually  received  by  the  tanner  in  dry  and 
dry -salted  condition,  and  require  longer  and  more  thorough 
soaking  than  fresh-salted  skins.  The  dry-salted  skins  are 
readily  softened  in  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  pro- 
cedure described  above  of  soaking  the  skins  for  a  few  hours 
in  clean  water,  then  changing  the  water  and  soaking  the 
skins  for  a  few  hours  longer  is  a  good  practice  to  follow  in 
preparing  salted  goatskins.  The  flint-dried  skins  are  some- 
what more  difficult  to  soften  unless  some  article  is  used  in 
the  water  to  assist  in  the  soaking.  For  this  purpose  a  small 
quantity  of  sulphide  of  sodium  is  an  advantage,  as  by  its 
use  the  dried  and  withered  skins  are  soon  brought  back  to 
the  natural  soft  condition  and  freed  from  salt  and  dirt  and 
the  grain  made  bright  and  clear.  The  importance  of  the 
soaking  process  is  often  overlooked,  and  yet  it  is  really  a 
process  of  much  importance,  coming  as  it  does  at  the  very 
beginning  of  the  work,  when  neglect  or  wrong  treatment 
will  cause  trouble  later  on.  The  soak-vats  should  be  fre- 
quently cleaned  out  and  fresh  water  run  in,  as  this  has 
much  to  do  with  getting  leather  with  bright  clear  grain 
and  with  plumpness  and  fullness  intact. 

Preparing  the  Skins  for  Tanning. 

To  get  the  softness  and  smoothness  of  grain  that  are  so 
desirable  in  this  class  of  leather,  the  processes  of  liming  and 
preparing  the  skins  for  tanning  need  to  be  well  understood, 
as  much  of  the  quality  of  the  leather  depends  upon  how 
these  processes  are  carried  out.  Red  arsenic  limes  are  very 
satisfactory  to  use  in  preparing  goatskins,  as  they  produce 
just  the  results  desired.  Sulphide  of  sodium  mixed  with 
the  lime  also  produces  good  results,  increasing  the  tough- 
ness of  the  grain  and  fibre,  and  giving  plump,  firm  skins. 
10 


146 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Tough,  firm  stock  can  be  obtained  by  letting  the  skins  lie 
for  two  or  three  days  in  a  clear  solution  of  sulphide  of 
sodium.  The  strength  of  the  liquor  should  be  about  three 
degrees  Baume,  and  the  skins  should  be  left  in  the  liquor 
until  the  hair  can  be  readily  washed  off.  By  this  process 
the  hair  is  lost,  but  the  quality  and  the  texture  of  the 
leather  are  very  satisfactory.  After  the  hair  has  been  re- 
moved the  skins  may  be  limed  for  three  or  four  days  in 
weak,  clean  limes,  or  a  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide  of 
sodium  may  be  made  up  in  a  vat.  About  one-third  as 
much  sulphide  of  sodium  as  lime  should  be  used.  The 
liquor  should  be  weak  at  the  start,  and  gradually  strength- 
ened each  day.  In  this  instance  six  days  liming  will  be 
sufficient.  The  red  arsenic  limes  are  used  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  the  foregoing.  The  liming  is  hastened  by 
the  paddles,  as  they  keep  the  skins  in  constant  motion. 

The  method  of  depilating  sheepskins  has  been  fully 
described.  The  pelts  are  generally  painted  with  either  a 
clear  solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium  or  a  mixture  of  sul- 
phide of  sodium  and  lime,  and  after  the  wool  has  been 
removed  the  slats  are  limed  for  a  few  days  in  weak  clean 
limes. 

Drenching  the  Skins. 
The  bran  drench  is  well  adapted  for  goat  and  sheepskins 
to  be  tanned  by  the  dongola  or  the  combination  process, 
as  it  rids  them  thoroughly  of  all  lime  and  softens  the  grain 
and  fibres.  For  about  four  hundred  skins  of  average  size 
about  one-half  of  a  barrel  of  bran  is  required.  To  this  is 
added  enough  water  to  make  a  thick  mush.  This  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  forty-eight  hours,  or  until  it  becomes 
sour.  This  sour  bran  is  poured  into  a  vat  holding  sufficient 
water  to  cover  the  pack  of  skins.  One  and  one-half  quarts 
of  sulphuric  acid  and  three  pecks  of  common  salt  are  added 
and  the  whole  mixed  together,  and  heated  to  about  ninety 
degrees.  A  paddling  in  a  drench  prepared  in  this  way  will 
delime  the  skins  in  from  four  to  six  hours,  thick  skins,  of 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  147 

course,  requiring  longer  time  than  thin  ones.  At  the  end  of 
this  time  the  skins  will  be  found  to  be  thoroughly  delimed 
and  in  splendid  condition  for  pickling  or  tanning  without 
further  washing.  If  the  leather  is  to  be  finall}^  colored 
light  and  fancy  shades,  the  skins  will  be  improved  by  wash- 
ing after  drenching  for  a  few  minutes  in  warm  water. 

Lactic  Acid. 

Lactic  acid  is  a  very  satisfactory  article  to  use  in  the  pre- 
paration of  both  classes  of  skins.  After  the  skins  come  from 
the  lime  they  should  be  washed  for  a  few  minutes  in  warm 
water  and  then  drenched  in  a  lactic  acid  bath.  The 
quantity  of  acid  usually  required  is  seldom  more  than  three 
quarts  for  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  in  the  paddle 
vat.  The  temperature  of  the  liquor  should  be  about  ninety 
degrees.  After  the  acid  has  been  poured  into  the  vat  it 
should  be  thoroughly  stirred  throughout  the  water  and  the 
skins  entered.  This  drench  readily  dissolves  the  lime  in 
from  one  to  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the  skins 
may  be  taken  out  of  the  drench  and  worked  on  the  grain, 
then  washed  for  a  few  minutes  in  warm  w^ater  and  are  then 
ready  to  be  pickled. 

Pickling  the  skins. 

A  good  pickle  or  skin  preserver  is  made  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds  of  salt  and  fifty  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid 
in  two  hundred  gallons  of  water.  When  the  skins  are  being 
placed  in  this  liquor  care  should  be  taken  to  open  each  skin 
out  and  after  the  skins  are  all  in  they  should  be  thoroughly 
stirred.  The  length  of  time  required  by  this  process  is 
about  six  hours,  although  the  skins  may  be  left  in  longer 
without  injury. 

The  tanning  process. 

The  tanning  may  be  done  in  a  liquor  composed  of  salt 
alum  and  gambler.    A  gambler  liquor  of  about  four  degrees 


148 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


strength  is  prepared  and  to  this  are  added  ten  pounds  of  salt 
and  six  pounds  of  alum  for  each  one  hundred  gallons  of 
liquor.  This  liquor  should  be  strengthened  each  day  until 
the  skins  are  well  tanned,  which  can  readily  be  discovered 
by  the  tanner  and  depends  upon  the  thickness  of  the  skins. 

The  process  may  also  be  used  as  a  two-bath  process  by 
applying  first  the  alum  and  salt  and  then  placing  the  skins 
in  the  gambler  liquor.  This  may  be  done  by  using  three 
pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  eight  pounds  of  salt  for 
every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  and  drumming  the  stock 
in  this  solution  for  thirty  minutes,  following  this  with  the 
gambler  tannage  carried  on  for  a  few  days  until  the  skins 
are  well  tanned.  The  alumina  and  salt  liquor  does  not 
work  well  upon  acid-pickled  skins,  and  hence  it  is  not 
necessary  to  pickle  the  skins  when  this  method  is  used.  If 
pickled  sheepskins  are  to  be  tanned,  the  pickle  should  be 
removed  from  them  by  a  drench  of  sour  bran  and  salt. 

Another  dongola  liquor  for  both  goat  and  sheepskins 

Is  made  of  thirty  pounds  of  salt  and  forty  pounds  of  alum, 
dissolved  by  boiling  in  about  one  hundred  gallons  of  water. 
One  hundred  and  eighty  pounds  of  gambler  are  boiled  in 
three  hundred  gallons  of  water  and  the  resulting  liquor  is 
then  mixed  with  the  salt  and  alum  solution.  To  this  are 
added  one  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  more  of  water  and  to 
this  is  added  one  quart  of  sulphuric  acid.  These  are  the 
proportions  for  making  five  hundred  gallons  of  good,  strong 
dongola  liquor. 

Palmetto  extract  has  peculiar  and  distinctive  qualities. 
It  belongs  to  the  same  class  of  tannages  as  gambler,  and 
hence  is  especially  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  light  and 
soft  leathers.  It  tans  very  rapidly  and  produces  tough 
leather,  light  in  color  and  clear  grain.  It  produces  very 
good  results  when  it  is  used  in  connection  with  the  chrome 
process.  Light  skins  may  be  tanned  with  Palmetto  in  three 
hours. 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  149 

A  leather  possessing  some  of  the  qualities  of  both  chrome 
and  vegetable-tanned  stock 
Is  produced  by  first  tanning  the  skins  (both  sheep  and  goat) 
in  chrome  liquors  and  following  this  with  a  tannage  of  gam- 
bier  or  palmetto.  When  this  is  done,  the  skins  are  taken, 
after  the  final  drenching  or  washing,  and  entered  into  a 
weak  chrome  liquor.  To  one  hundred  gallons  of  water,  two 
gallons  of  concentrated  tanning  liquor  are  added  and  some 
salt,  and  the  skins  left  in  this  solution  until  they  become  well 
struck  with  the  tanning  material.  If  a  drum  is  used,  about 
two  gallons  of  chrome  liquor  are  given  for  every  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins  and  the  skins  drummed  therein  for  two 
hours,  then  laid  in  a  pile  for  twenty-four  hours.  In  a 
paddle-vat,  after  the  skins  absorb  the  tanning  material,  more 
liquor  is  added  until  the  bath  contains  about  four  gallons 
of  tanning  fluid  to  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water. 
After  being  tanned  in  the  chrome  liquor,  the  skins  should 
be  washed  and  then  entered  into  a  weak  gambler  bath  and 
left  therein  until  well  tanned  with  the  gambler.  The  gam- 
bier  completes  the  tanning  and  fills  the  leather,  giving  it 
fullness  and  plumpness.  The  skins  require  to  be  kept  in 
motion  during  the  tanning,  and  as  soon  as  the  process  is 
completed  they  should  be  removed  from  the  liquor,  pressed 
out  and  left  lying  in  piles  for  some  hours. 

Fat-liquoring  and  currying  goatskins. 

A  suitable  drum  should  be  heated  with  steam  to  a  temper- 
ature of  100  deg.  and  one  gallon  of  oil  added  for  each  one 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  leather,  weighed  after  pressing 
and  draining.  The  leather  should  be  drummed  in  the  oil 
until  all  the  oil  is  taken  up  and  absorbed  by  the  leather, 
then  removed  from  the  drum  and  hung  up  and  dried  out. 
After  drying,  the  leather  should  be  again  weighed  and  then 
wet  down  in  a  tub  or  vat,  and  placed  in  piles  to  become  soft 
and  moist.  At  this  point  the  skins  may  be  shaved  if  they 
require  it,  and  then  put  into  the  drum  with  just  enough 


150 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


warm  water  to  soften  all  parts  alike.  All  excess  of  water 
should  be  drained  off  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  gallons  of 
fat-liquor  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  dry-weight  stock 
applied  to  the  leather.  The  temperature  of  the  drum  and 
fat-liquor  should  not  exceed  one  hundred  and  ten  degrees. 
Some  tannages  carry  more  fat-liquor  than  others.  A  much 
smaller  quantity  than  mentioned  above  will,  in  many  in- 
stances, produce  the  necessary  softness.  The  drumming  of 
the  leather  in  the  fat-liquor  should  be  continued  until  all 
the  grease  has  been  absorbed  by  the  leather,  then  the  stock 
should  be  hung  up  and  dried  out  again. 

A  very  good  fat-liquor  for  comhination-tanned  skins  is  prepared 

as  follows  : 

Twenty -five  gallons  of  water  are  put  into  a  barrel.  To  this 
are  added  twenty-five  pounds  of  suitable  potash  soap,  which 
is  boiled  until  it  is  thoroughly  dissolved.  Then  about  fifty 
pounds  of  English  sod  oil  and  one  and  one-half  gallons  of 
neatsfoot  oil  are  added  to  the  soap  solution  and  the  mixture 
of  soap  and  oil  thoroughly  stirred  until  all  the  ingredients 
are  mixed  well  together.  Enough  water  should  be  added 
to  bring  the  volume  of  fat-liquor  up  to  fifty  gallons.  An 
emulsion  of  castor  oil  and  castor-oil  soap  may  also  be  used ; 
the  quantity  of  each  about  the  same  as  in  the  above  for- 
mula. 

Sheepskins. 

Very  little  fat-liquor  is  required  by  sheepskins,  less  than 
half  the  quantity  given  to  goatskins  being  generally  suffi- 
cient to  make  them  soft  and  pliable.  With  the  exception 
of  the  difference  in  fat-liquoring,  sheepskins  are  treated  the 
same  as  goatskins. 

After  fat-liquoring,  the  leather  is  dried  out,  and  the 
longer  it  is  left  in  the  dry  condition  the  better  will  be  the 
quality  of  the  leather  when  it  is  finally  finished.  Before  it 
can  be  dyed  black  or  colored  fancy  shades  the  leather  must 
be  moistened  back.    This  is  best  accomplished  by  the  use  of 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  151 

warm  borax  water.  By  the  use  of  such  water  the  leather 
is  readily  made  soft  and  pliable,  and  much  of  the  uncom- 
bined  tannin  removed. 

Clearing  the  grain  of  grease. 
When  the  grain  of  the  leather  is  greasy,  as  it  often  is,  the 
grease  can  be  removed  by  drumming  the  skins  in  a  weak 
warm  bath  of  lactic  acid  for  thirty  minutes,  after  having 
been  moistened  with  water.  About  one  gallon  of  lactic  acid 
is  used  in  fifty  gallons  of  water.  This  operation  not  only 
clears  the  grain  of  greasy  matter,  but  also  opens  the  pores 
of  the  leather  so  that  the  dye  can  the  more  readily  pene- 
rate.  When  lactic  acid  is  combined  with  bichromate  of 
potash  it  makes  an  excellent  mordant  and  striker  for  fancy 
colors.  The  proportions  to  be  used  are  two  pounds  of  the 
potash  and  one-half  gallon  of  acid  to  a  barrel  of  warm  water. 
No  mordant  is  really  required  on  gambier  or  combination- 
tanned  skins,  but  a  striker  is  sometimes  a  help  in  develop- 
ing and  fixing  the  color  upon  the  skins.  The  solution  of 
chrome  and  acid  is  good  for  this  purpose,  as  it  gives  the 
color  a  fuller  and  more  even  appearance.  The  drumming 
in  the  weak  solution  of  lactic  acid  also  serves  the  useful 
purpose  of  removing  all  clouds  and  marks  from  the  grain. 
For  this  purpose  oxalic  acid  is  also  used  ;  three  pounds  of 
the  acid  in  ten  gallons  of  water  being  enough  for  two  hun- 
dred pounds  of  skins. 

^  Coloring  the  flesh. 

When  the  grain  of  this  class  of  leather  is  dyed  black  the 
flesh  is  generally  colored  yellow.  This  is  done  by  moisten- 
ing the  dry  leather  and  allowing  it  to  lie  for  twenty-four 
hours  to  become  sufficiently  soft.  Then  one-half  pailful  of 
sumac  is  scalded  in  a  closed  vessel  for  two  hours.  For  one 
hundred  and  twenty  average  size  kins  (either  sheep  or  goat,) 
the  prepared  sumac  is  diluted  with  four  pails  of  water,  and 
to  this  is  added  one  gallon  of  Lactracine. 

The  liquor  should  be  warm,  about  one  hundred  degrees, 


152 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  the  leather  drummed  in  it  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
The  stock  should  then  be  thrown  back  upon  the  pins  on 
either  side  of  the  drum  and  the  color  bath  prepared.  One 
pound  of  yellow  S  is  dissolved  in  one-half  barrel  of  water, 
and  after  the  skins  have  been  drummed  in  the  sumac  three 
or  four  pailfuls  of  the  color  are  added  for  each  one  hundred 
pounds  of  dry  weight  stock.  The  leather  should  be 
drummed  in  this  for  ten  minutes.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
it  will  be  found  to  be  colored  through  with  the  j^ellow  and 
in  suitable  condition  to  receive  the  black  upon  the  grain. 

Blacking  the  grain. 

The  grain  blacking  may  consist  of  five  pounds  of  powdered 
or  liquid  logwood  extract  boiled  thoroughly  in  one-half 
barrel  of  water.  In  another  vessel  are  dissolved  three 
pounds  of  sal  soda  in  five  gallons  of  water,  and  this  solution 
is  added  to  the  logwood  liquor,  boiled  again,  and  enough 
water  run  in  to  make  a  total  of  forty  gallons.  When  this 
solution  is  used  in  this  concentrated  form  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  run  the  skins  once  through  the  blacking  machine 
before  the  striker  is  applied.  When  the  coloring  is  done 
on  a  table  a  small  quantity  of  ammonia  should  be  added 
to  each  pail  of  logwood  dye.  The  dye  is  then  brushed 
into  the  grain  of  the  leather.  Then  the  striker  is  applied, 
the  skin  struck  out  and  another  coat  of  dye  applied,  and 
thoroughly  brushed  in  and  the  leather  then  washed  off"  in 
warm  water,  struck  out  and  a  light  coat  of  oil  applied 
evenly  over  the  grain.  A  striker  is  made  of  four  and  one- 
half  pounds  of  copperas,  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  blue 
vitriol  in  half  a  barrel  of  w^ater.  Then  the  barrel  is  filled 
to  a  total  of  fifty  gallons.  When  this  is  used  upon  a 
machine  twelve  pounds  of  copperas  and  four  pounds  of 
blue  vitriol  are  used  to  a  barrel  of  water.  To  the  first 
formula  are  added  one  pound  of  nutgalls  and  one  pound  of 
Epsom  salts  to  each  six  pounds  of  copperas  and  blue  vitriol 
combined. 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  153 


Coloring  the  flesh  blue. 
When  a  blue  flesh  is  wanted,  instead  of  dyeing  the 
moistened  skin  in  yellow  liquor  as  described,  they  may  be 
drummed  in  a  solution  of  logwood  and  drummed  until 
the  color  is  well  taken  up  and  has  evenly  penetrated  the 
leather.  When  the  color  is  fully  developed  upon  the  grain 
the  skins  are  spread  upon  the  table  and  the  striker  applied 
to  the  grain  side  only.  This  procedure  leaves  a  blue  flesh 
and  black  grain. 

Clearing  the  grain  for  colors. 
The  sumac  which  is  used  as  a  mordant  for  the  yellow 
flesh  color  may  also  serve  the  purpose  of  a  mordant  for  any 
shade  that  may  be  desired.  There  is  always  more  or  less 
uncombined  tannin  upon  leather  that  has  been  tanned  in 
any  vegetable  process,  and  this  frequently  causes  spots  and 
streaks  upon  the  leather.  To  overcome  this  the  skins  after 
the  drumming  in  the  sumac  liquor  should  be  given  two 
ounces  of  antimonine  for  each  dozen  skins  and  drummed 
fifteen  minutes  longer,  then  washed  off  and  colored  with  the 
aniline  dye.  The  use  of  the  antimonine  overcomes  the 
uncombined  tannin  and  also  clears  the  grain,  as  well  as  acts 
as  a  fixing  agent  for  the  dye. 

Finishing  the  Leather. 
After  the  leather  has  been  colored  or  blackened  it  should 
be  washed  off  with  warm  water  and  given  a  thorough 
setting  out  with  a  glass  slicker.  A  light  coat  of  glycerine 
and  water  should  be  applied  evenly  over  the  grain,  and  this 
should  be  followed  by  a  light  coat  of  neatsfoot  oil,  after 
which  the  leather  is  again  dried  out.  The  final  finishing 
processes  consist  of  dampening,  staking  and  drying,  after 
which  if  the  leather  is  to  be  given  a  dull  finish  it  is  ironed, 
and  if  it  is  to  be  glazed  it  is  polished  on  a  machine.  The 
final  oiling  off  which  protects  the  finish  from  moisture  may 
be  a  mixture  of  neatsfoot  and  olive  oil,  one-half  of  each,  or 
olive  oil  foots  may  be  used  alone. 


154 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


THE  COLORING  AND  FINISHING  OF  INDIA-TANNED  SKINS. 

In  the  preparation  of  India-tanned  goat  and  sheepskins 
for  any  process  of  coloring  and  finishing,  it  is  of  great 
advantage  to  thoroughly  wash  the  skins.  This  is  done  to 
soften  them,  and  to  remove  from  them  all  loose  particles  or 
excess  of  tannin,  particles  of  dirt  and  dust.  Before  the 
actual  process  of  washing  is  begun  the  skins  may  be  soft- 
ened in  warm  water,  by  being  dipped  into  the  same,  and 
then  left  in  piles  for  a  number  of  hours  to  soften.  They 
are  then  transferred  to  the  drum  and  washed.  The  water 
should  be  at  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees ;  and  its 
efficacy  is  increased  by  the  addition  to  it  of  some  alkali 
such  as  borax  or  washing  soda,  in  quantity  about  two 
pounds  for  one  hundred  gallons  of  water.  In  water  thus 
prepared  the  skins  are  washed  for  twenty  minutes,  then  the 
water  is  run  off  and  a  fresh  supply  run  into  the  drum  and 
the  drumming  and  washing  continued  for  another  twenty 
minutes. 

Retanning  ivith  sumac. 

A  great  many  of  this  class  of  skins  are  imperfectly  tanned, 
of  a  dark  color  and  very  hard.  In  order  to  complete  the 
tanning  and  to  improve  the  quality  of  the  leather  by  mak- 
ing it  fuller,  softer  and  more  readily  adapted  for  fancy 
colors,  it  is  necessary  to  take  from  them  part  of  the  original 
tanning  material  and  to  replace  it  with  some  other  tannage. 
Sumac  is  frequently  used  for  the  retanning.  A  good 
method  to  pursue  is  to  wash  the  skins  thoroughly  as  above 
directed  in  warm  borax  water  for  thirty  minutes  or  longer, 
then  to  wash  them  off  in  clear  warm  water,  and  to  pass 
them  through  a  weak  bath  of  sulphuric  acid  and  water. 
The  borax  or  soda  used  in  washing  darkens  the  color  of  the 
leather ;  the  acid  treatment  brightens  up  the  color.  After 
the  acid  treatment,  the  skins  should  be  washed  with  an 
abundance  of  water  and  then  retanned  with  sumac. 

The  retanning  with  sumac  is  done  preferably  in  a  drum. 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  155 

The  liquor  should  be  warm,  at  a  temperature  of  about  one 
hundred  degrees ;  and  from  one  to  two  pounds  of  sumac 
used  for  each  dozen  skins.  The  skins  may  be  run  in  the 
sumac  liquor  for  two  or  three  hours,  washed  off  in  water  to 
remove  surplus  sumac  liquor,  and  set  out  on  the  table  with 
a  slicker,  and  may  be  either  dyed  at  once  or  hung  up  and 
dried  out  before  being  colored. 

Alum,  salt  and  gambier  liquor. 

Instead  of  a  retannage  in  sumac,  ver}^  good  leather  may 
be  made  by  applying  to  the  skins  an  alum,  salt  and  gambier 
liquor,  thus  producing  leather  that  very  closely  resembles 
dongola  leather.  Palmetto  extract  may  also  be  used  as  a 
retannage,  and  produces  results  similar  to  gambier.  The 
leather  is  very  much  improved  by  the  retanning.  Other 
tannages  may  be  used  in  place  of  those  mentioned.  Queb- 
racho makes  very  soft  leather,  and  also  works  well  com- 
bined with  hemlock  and  other  extracts. 

For  black  leather. 

For  black  leather  the  skins  may  be  lightly  washed  in 
clear  water,  pressed  and  fat-liquored  with  a  light  emulsion 
of  oil  and  soap,  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  Or  they  may 
be  dried  out  after  tanning  and  then  moistened  back,  blue 
or  yellow  backed,  fat-liquored  and  then  grain  blacked.  A 
drumming  in  oil  immediately  after  retanning  and  pressing, 
before  the  leather  is  dried  out,  one  gallon  of  oil  for  every 
one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  pressed  leather,  will  keep 
the  grain  soft  and  prevent  its  cracking  or  becoming  rough 
during  the  time  it  is  drying  out.  Moistened  back  and 
ready  for  flesh  coloring,  the  leather  may  be  colored  blue 
upon  the  flesh  by  the  use  of  logwood  and  borax,  purple 
aniline,  or  a  solution  of  blue  nigrosine.  The  last  named 
article  is  used  in  the  following  manner :  For  each  dozen 
skins  two  ounces  of  the  nigrosine  are  dissolved  in  hot 
water  and  applied  to  the  skins  at  a  temperature  of  one 


156 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


hundred  degrees.  The  leather  is  drummed  in  the  color 
solution  for  twenty  minutes,  after  which  it  is  blacked  on 
the  grain,  struck  out,  oiled  lightly,  and  dried  out. 

When  logwood  and  borax  are  used 

The  skins  are  drummed  in  a  solution  of  the  same  until  the 
color  is  well  taken  up  and  absorbed,  then  spread  upon  a 
table  or  run  through  a  machine,  or  folded  and  dipped  into 
a  striker  liquor  in  trays  or  boxes,  and  the  grain  by  this  pro- 
cedure is  made  black  and  the  flesh  remains  blue  or  purple. 

For  very  light  and  fancy  shades. 
When  very  light  and  fancy  shades  are  wanted  it  is 
oftimes  a  great  advantage  to  first  bleach  the  leather  as  light 
a  color  as  possible.    This  may  be  done  by  the  methods  de- 
scribed in  the  part  of  this  book  devoted  to  bleaching  processes. 

When  the  gvain  of  the  leather  is  greasy 

It  may  be  cleared  b}^  milling  the  skins  in  a  dilute  solution 
of  lactic  acid,  one  gallon  of  the  same  mixed  with  fifty 
gallons  of  warm  water,  previous  to  colonng.  The  use  of 
the  acid  solution  opens  up  the  pores  of  the  grain,  clears  the 
grain  of  greasy  matter,  and  thus  aids  in  getting  more  uni- 
form coloring.  After  the  acid  treatment  the  leather  should 
be  washed  in  water  before  it  is  colored. 

Practical  instructions  for  the  getting  of  many  of  the 
shades  of  color  at  the  present  time  in  most  favor  are  given 
in  various  parts  of  this  book.  Aniline  and  sulphamine 
dyes  are  most  generally  used. 

Turkey-red  or  alizarine  oils. 

The  finisher  of  India-tanned  goatskins  may  be  interested 
to  know  that  good  results  are  said  to  be  obtained  upon  such 
skins,  and  in  fact  upon  all  classes  of  bark  and  vegetable 
tanned  leather,  from  the  use  of  the  so-called  Turkey-red  or 
alizarine  oils,  used  in  place  of  emulsions  of  oil  and  soap  to 
impart  flexibility  and  fineness  to  the  leather.    The  use  of 


DONGOLA  AND  INDIA-TANNED  GOAT  AND  SHEEPSKINS.  157 

the  oils  mentioned  has  been  made  the  subject  of  a  patent,  a 
full  description  of  which  will  be  found  in  another  part  of 
this  book.  No  reference  is  made  there,  however,  to  this 
particular  class  of  leather.  No  doubt  good  results  may  be 
obtained  by  subjecting  the  skins  after  washing  and  retan- 
ning  to  a  bath  of  the  soluble  oil,  made  up  in  solution  about 
ten  per  cent,  of  the  oil  in  warm  water — that  is,  presumably 
ten  gallons  of  the  oil  mixed  into  one  hundred  gallons  of 
warm  water.  The  skins  are  passed  once  or  twice  through 
such  an  oil  bath,  allowed  to  drip  or  drain,  and  are  then 
slowly  dried  out.  Very  fine  effects  are  claimed  to  be  pro- 
duced by  this  method  of  lubricating  the  leather,  whether 
the  same  is  dyed  black  with  logwood  or  colored  fancy 
shades. 

Another  process  for  finishing  India  goat  and  sheepskins. 

Another  process,  also  patented,  and  fully  described  in 
another  part  of  this  book,  is  of  interest  to  finishers  of  India 
goat  and  sheepskins,  because  by  its  use  a  superior  quality 
of  leather  is  said  to  be  produced.  Upon  raw  skins  the  pro- 
cess consists  of  treating  them  in  a  vat  or  drum  to  a  bath  of 
tanning  material  in  the  usual  manner,  gambler  or  any 
other  vegetable  tannage  being  used,  and  then  applying  to 
the  tanned  skins  a  solution  of  formic  aldehyde.  This  may 
consist  of  three  pounds  of  the  commercial  formic  aldehyde, 
40  per  cent,  to  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  dissolved 
in  about  fifteen  gallons  of  warm  water.  The  skins  are  sub- 
jected to  the  action  of  this  solution  until  they  are  permeated 
through  and  through  with  the  same  and  respond  to  the 
usual  tests  of  good  leather.  Upon  light  skins  this  is  said 
to  consume  three  hours.  The  temperature  of  the  liquor 
should  be  maintained  at  from  80  degrees  to  120  degrees 
Fah.  The  use  of  the  formic  aldehyde  solution  fixes  the 
tannage  upon  the  skins,  and  after  this  has  been  accom- 
plished the  leather  may  be  washed  and  finished  in  the 
usual  way. 


158 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Imperfectly  tanned  skins  may  be  greatly  improved 
By  the  following  method  of  tanning :  They  are  thoroughly 
washed,  and  when  they  require  it  they  are  retanned  with 
any  suitable  tanning  extract.  They  are  then  given  a 
treatment  with  formic  aldehyde  in  the  same  manner  as  de- 
scribed for  raw  skins.  This  thoroughly  plumps  and  fills 
the  leather.  In  case  the  skins  are  well  tanned  and  full 
and  plump  to  begin  with,  the  retanning  is  not  necessary. 
The  solution  of  formic  aldehyde  may  be  applied  directly 
to  the  moistened  and  washed  skins  in  a  drum.  This  treat- 
ment is  said  to  securely  fix  the  tanning  material  upon  and 
in  the  leather  fibres,  and  results  in  making  a  superior 
quality  of  plump  and  well-filled  leather.  Another  ad- 
vantage afforded  by  this  process  is  that  it  overcomes  the 
obstacles  hitherto  encountered  in  the  use  of  materials  like 
divi-divi,  which  add  to  the  leather  substances  extremely 
susceptible  to  fermentation,  and  which  lead  to  loss  of 
leather  in  damp  weather.  The  use  of  formic  aldehyde  pre- 
vents this  fermentation  and  the  subsequent  softening  of  the 
leather.  It  also  prevents  the  moulding  of  the  leather  dur- 
ing the  time  it  is  drying  out. 

The  letters  patent  issued  on  this  process  cover  the  use  of 
formic  aldehyde  in  the  making  of  all  kinds  of  leather, 
heavy  and  light,  and  made  by  any  process  or  combination 
of  processes  of  tanning. 


CHAPTER  X. 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING. 

In  this  chapter  a  number  of  very  interesting  tanning  and 
tawing  processes  are  described.  The  intelligent  tanner, 
eager  to  broaden  his  knowledge  of  tanning,  can  do  no 
better  than  to  study  carefully  these  descriptions.  A  great 
deal  of  valuable  information  can  be  acquired  by  such  study. 

The  folloiuing  process  is  a  patented  "  Method  of  Tawing,^' 
designed  for  the  final  finishing  of  East  India  kips,  goat- 
skins, basils  and  white  leather,  and  the  improvement  of 
hides  and  skins  imperfectly  tanned  by  cutch,  tena  japonica, 
divi-divi,  etc.,  so  that  the  required  plumpness,  weight, 
color,  softness,  and  moisture-resisting  qualities  are  obtained. 

The  process  consists,  essentially,  of  two  steps,  the  first  of 
which  is  concerned  with  the  introduction  of  materials 
which  wdll  render  the  skin  sensitive  to  the  fixing  or  tanning 
agent  employed  in  the  second  step.  This  results  in  a  full- 
ing or  plumping  efi^ect,  clearing  the  grain,  and  at  the  same 
time  feeding  the  leather.  The  first  step  has  the  same  pur- 
pose as  that  commonly  attained  by  the  employment  of  old 
and  sour  liquors  and  weak  solutions  of  extracts  w^hich  pre- 
cede the  actual  process  of  tanning. 

The  second  step  consists  of  treating  the  hide  or  skin  to 
the  action  of  formic  aldehyde,  a  material  possessing  the 
property  of  fixing  the  connective  tissue  and  fibers  in  the 
swelled  and  plumped,  tawed  or  partially  tanned  condition, 
produced  by  the  first  treatment,  and  at  the  same  time  of 
fixing  in,  upon  or  between  the  fibers  materials  previously 
supplied  by  the  first  step  of  the  process  to  contribute 
special  qualities,  such  as  body,  color,  suppleness,  weight, 
etc.,  essential  to  a  solid  and  well  nourished  leather. 

(159) 


160 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  use  of  the  formic  aldehyde  in  the  second  step  is  not 
a  mere  aggregation  of  elements  or  materials,  as  it  is  in  its 
nature  and  effects  entirely  different  from  the  materials 
employed  in  the  first  step,  and  could  not  be  substituted  for 
them  to  produce  the  effects  of  the  first  step,  while  it  pos- 
sesses distinctive  and  positive  characters  by  which  it  acts 
upon  both  the  skin  and  the  materials  with  which  it  has 
been  impregnated  by  the  first  step  in  a  manner  peculiar  to 
itself  The  formic  aldehyde  is  used  in  the  second  part  of 
this  process  strictly  as  a  tanning  agent  to  render  the  skin 
non-putrescible  and  insoluble. 

Advantage  is  taken  of  the  property  possessed  by  various 
tanning  and  tawing  agents  such  as  alum,  salt,  argol,  eggs, 
flour,  vegetable  extracts,  gambler,  cutch,  and  the  artificial 
and  natural  tannins  used  in  making  leather,  many  of 
which  have  none  or  only  feeble  tanning  properties — of  caus- 
ing a  curling  up  or  separation  of  the  fibres,  and  the  deposi- 
tion therein  and  upon  of  materials  which  prevent  them 
from  becoming  agglutinated,  thereby  allowing  the  inter- 
lacing fibres  to  move  readily  upon  each  other,  and  which 
at  the  same  time  add  material  to  the  skin  which  is  of 
advantage  in  respect  to  weight,  body,  color,  etc.,  whereby  a 
plump,  soft,  pliable,  tough  and  elastic  leather  may  be  pro- 
duced. 

Leather  is  of  so  many  varied  qualities  and  varieties  that 
it  is  impossible  to  specify  any  one  of  the  agents,  such  as 
alum,  eggs,  flour,  extracts,  gambler,  tannins,  etc.,  as  being 
capable  of  meeting  all  requirements  which  will  produce  the 
effect  or  effects  desired. 

The  following  particular  case  will  serve  to  illustrate  the 
steps  involved.  Sheepskins,  goatskins  or  hides,  having 
been  previously  prepared  for  treatment  by  softening,  un- 
hairing  and  other  necessary  steps,  usually  referred  to  as 
beam-house  treatment"  are  placed  in  a  drum  or  reel,  in 
which  they  may  be  agitated  by  the  revolving  of  the  drum, 
or  the  action  of  the  paddles,  or  by  any  other  suitable  means. 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  161 

In  the  drum,  for  instance,  is  placed  a  solution  of  gambler 
extract  sufficiently  diluted  to  present  the  extract  to  the 
entire  mass  of  skins,  containing  approximately  four  pounds 
of  gambler  to  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  wet  hides  or 
skins,  the  exact  quantity  of  gambler  being  based  upon  the 
weight  of  the  skins  or  hides  to  be  treated,  also  upon  their 
acidity  or  alkalinity,  according  to  the  well-known  gambler 
process.  The  hides  or  skins  are  then  drummed  in  the 
gambler  bath  until  they  are  permeated  through  and 
through  by  the  solution.  When  the  gambler  has  struck 
through  or  thoroughly  permeated  the  skins,  which  may  be 
ascertained  by  cutting  into  the  thickest  skin  and  examining 
the  exposed  interior,  the  skins  are  cleansed  in  clear  water  ; 
but  this  washing  may  be  dispensed  with  and  the  second 
step  proceeded  with  at  once. 

The  second  step  consists  in  subjecting  the  skins  to  the 
action  of  formic  aldehyde,  preferably  in  solution,  although 
it  may  be  employed  in  the  state  of  gas,  either  in  the  same 
drum  or  vat  in  which  they  were  given  the  first  treatment, 
or  another  drum  or  vat  may  be  used. 

The  amount  of  the  solution  employed  varies  somewhat, 
but  is  based  upon  the  weight  of  the  skins  to  be  treated,  and 
it  has  been  found  in  practice  that  three  pounds  of  commer- 
cial forty  per  cent,  formic  aldehyde  solution  to  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  wet  hides  or  skins  is  sufficient  for  ordi- 
nary sheep  or  goatskins.  The  amount  of  water  with  which 
the  formic  aldehyde  is  diluted  is  based  upon  the  bulk  of  the 
skins,  being  just  sufficient  to  keep  them  well  wetted  and  to 
present  the  formic  aldehyde  to  the  entire  mass  of  skins,  but 
not  so  much  as  to  prevent  the  pounding  action  of  the  skins 
when  revolving  in  the  drum. 

The  skins  are  subjected  to  the  action  of  the  formic  alde- 
hyde until  permeated  through  and  through  and  until  they 
respond  to  the  usual  tests  of  good  leather.  In  this  partic- 
ular case  the  time  required  is  three  hours,  depending  to  a 
very  considerable  extent,  as  in  the  treatment  by  the  first 
11 


162 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


step  of  the  process,  upon  the  number  of  skins  in  the  drum 
and  the  rate  and  mode  of  agitation  to  which  they  have 
been  subjected. 

It  is  advisable  to  maintain  the  bath  in  the  second  step  at 
a  temperature  of  not  less  than  80°  Fah.  and  not  above 
120°  Fah.  in  order  to  secure  the  greatest  efficiency  from  the 
formic  aldehyde.  After  the  skins  are  found  to  have  been 
thoroughly  fixed  by  the  formic  aldehyde,  they  are  washed 
and  are  then  ready  for  the  usual  treatment  employed  in 
finishing.  In  case  the  formic  aldehyde  is  employed  in  the 
state  of  a  gas,  the  following  method  is  advisable :  The 
skins,  having  been  brought  to  the  desired  state  by  the  first 
step,  as  has  been  described,  an  amount  of  commercial  formic 
aldehyde  solution,  representing  three  pounds  to  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  wet  hides  or  skins  to  be  treated,  is 
placed  in  a  suitable  generator,  and  the  gas  generated  is 
allowed  to  pass,  by  suitable  connections,  into  the  chamber 
containing  the  skins.  The  temperature  of  this  chamber  is 
preferably  maintained  at  from  110°  to  120°  Fah.,  and  the 
atmosphere  of  the  chamber  should  also  be  kept  moist,  both 
of  which  conditions  are  readily  secured  by  the  admission 
from  time  to  time  of  a  small  quantity  of  aqueous  vapor  by 
means  of  a  suitable  steam  connection.  The  chamber  em- 
ployed should  be  a  closed  one,  and  no  larger  than  neces- 
sary to  allow  the  skins  to  be  fully  exposed  to  the  action  of 
the  gas. 

If  desired,  the  gas  may  be  admitted  to  the  drum  in 
which  the  preliminary  treatment  took  place  or  into  a  simi- 
lar drum,  and  the  skins  agitated  therein,  or  the  skins  may 
be  stretched  on  suitable  frames  and  enclosed  within  a  sta- 
tionary chamber,  in  either  case  being  exposed  to  the  action 
of  the  gas  until  they  respond  to  the  usual  tests  for  good 
leather,  say  for  a  period  of  six  hours,  the  time  depending, 
however,  on  the  thickness  and  character  of  the  skins  under 
treatment. 

The  market  supplies  certain  tanned  or  imperfectly  tanned 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  163 

skins  and  hides,  which  have  been  subjected  to  the  action  of 
salt,  alum,  flour,  eggs,  vegetable  extracts,  gambier,  cutch, 
tannins  or  other  materials,  and  which  do  not  constitute 
high-grade  leather,  but  which  may  be  greatly  improved. 
The  effects  produced  on  these  skins  are  analogous  to  those 
produced  by  the  first  step  of  the  process,  and  it  is  advan- 
tageous to  take  such  skins,  and  after  softening  them  in 
water  to  proceed  to  treat  them  as  described  in  the  example 
cited  for  treating  raw  skins,  whereby  the  results  of  the  first 
step  are  secured  with  less  time  and  material  than  is  required 
in  the  treatment  of  raw  hides  or  skins.  In  certain  cases 
where  the  tawed  or  imperfectly  tanned  skins  or  hides  have 
the  plumpness,  color,  weight,  etc.,  desired,  and  which  would 
be  in  other  instances  secured  by  means  of  the  first  step  of 
this  process,  the  second  step  may  be  at  once  proceeded  with, 
which  consists  essentially  in  the  fixation  of  the  natural  or 
added  constituents  of  the  skins. 

It  has  been  found  by  a  large  number  of  practical  tests  that 
the  action  of  the  natural  tannins  as  introduced  into  the  skin 
by  the  first  step  of  this  process  may  be  greatly  hastened  and 
augmented  by  the  employment  of  formic  aldehyde  in  con- 
junction therewith,  as  accomplished  in  the  second  step. 
Thus  with  the  pyrogallol  tannins,  a  considerable  portion  of 
which  possess  little  or  no  tanning  power,  a  compound  is 
formed  whereby  all  the  tannin  is  rendered  available,  and 
consequently  a  greater  action  secured  from  a  given  amount 
of  extract,  a  matter  of  importance  in  point  of  economy. 
Again  it  has  been  found  that  by  means  of  formic  aldehyde 
used  in  conjunction  with,  but  subsequent  to  the  use  of  those 
natural  tannins  containing  "  reds,"  as  introduced  into  the 
hides  by  the  first  step  of  this  process,  these  substances,  which 
in  many  instances  are  insoluble  and  not  directly  available 
for  tanning,  can  be  fixed  in  the  leather ;  and  again  with 
other  tannins  the  deposit  of  "  whites  "  or  "  bloom  "  is  pre- 
vented. The  peculiar  action  of  formic  aldehyde  upon  the 
fibres  of  the  skin  results  in  filling  the  skins — plumping 


164 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


them,  thereby  effecting  what  is  commonly  known  as  feed- 
ing the  leather. 

A  special  advantage  afforded  by  this  process  is  that  it 
overcomes  the  obstacles  hitherto  encountered  in  the  use  of 
material  like  divi-divi,  which  add  to  the  leather  substances 
extremely  susceptible  to  fermentation  and  which  lead  to 
loss  of  leather  in  damp  weather.  The  superior  bactericidal 
and  anti-fermentative  properties  of  formic  aldehyde  prevent 
this  fermentation  and  the  subsequent  softening  of  the 
leather.  It  also  prevents  molding  during  the  drying  of  the 
finished  leather. 

Formic  aldehyde  has  the  property  of  fixing  the  collogen 
and  other  gelatinous  constituents  of  the  skin  in  the  condi- 
tion in  which  they  are  when  subjected  to  its  action  ;  and  it 
has  been  found  to  be  highly  advantageous  in  using  formic 
aldehyde  in  the  manufacture  of  leather  to  prepare  the  hides 
or  skins  by  some  preliminary  treatment  of  tawing  or  tan- 
ning. The  skins  may  be  alum,  oil,  chamois,  chrome  or 
vegetable  tanned  in  the  first  part  of  the  process,  and  then 
taken  ready  prepared  and  submitted  to  the  fixing  action  of 
formic  aldehyde. 

Patented  by  Messrs.  Dolley  &  Crank,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Sulpho-Compounds  or  Their  Mixture  with  Fats  and  Oils. 

In  tanning  leather  of  the  various  kinds  and  by  the  vari- 
ous processes  the  use  of  oil  plays  an  important  part,  and  the 
same  has  been  applied  in  various  ways,  though  principally 
as  an  emulsion  with  alkalies  or  their  carbonates,  or  as  an 
emulsion  containing  a  free  fatty  acid.  It  has  been  found 
by  Armand  Miiller,  of  New  York  City,  that  the  whole  tan- 
ning process  may  be  greatly  improved,  shortened  and  sim- 
plified by  the  use  of  sulpho-compounds,  or  mixtures  of  the 
sulpho-compounds  of  the  various  fats  and  oils  with  fats  or 
oils  or  free  fatty  acids — that  is,  by  the  use  of  the  so-called 
Turkey -red  oils  "  or  "  alizarine  oils."  These  oils  are  used 
in  this  process  of  tanning  in  place  of  fats  or  oils,  or  emul- 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  165 

sions  of  oils  or  fats,  whether  in  bark -tanning,  alum-tanning 
or  tawing,  oil-tanning  or  chamoising,  chrome-tanning,  or 
any  other  in  which  oil  or  its  equivalent  is  used. 

The  materials  present  ready  means  of  effecting  the  proper 
absorption  of  oils  and  fats,  in  the  shortest  possible  time,  in 
the  most  rational  manner  and  with  a  considerable  saving 
of  material.  This  refers  as  well  to  the  manufacture  of  com- 
mon tanned  leather — that  is,  to  ordinary  bark-tanning,  as 
to  tawing  and  chamoising.  Furthermore,  the  great  advan- 
tages are  presented  that  combinations  may  be  effected  that 
insure  the  tanning  materials  being  more  firmly  fixed  upon 
the  fibre,  resulting  in  much  tougher  leather.  The  benefit 
derived  from  the  use  of  these  oils  is  due  to  the  fact  that  "they 
are  soluble  in  water,  contain  large  quantities  of  undecom- 
posed  or  unchanged  oil,  or  free  fats,  or  fatty  acids,  and  pre- 
sent these  in  a  manner  and  condition  to  permeate  the  skins 
with  great  ease  and  uniformity,  thereby  also  effecting  great 
saving  in  material  and  labor. 

The  oils  or  sulpholeates  are  to  be  produced  in  the  well- 
known  way,  by  the  gradual  action  of  twenty-five  to  fifty 
per  cent,  sulphuric  acid  upon  triglycerides,  oil-seeds,  etc.,  as 
well  as  upon  semi-liquid  and  fixed  fats,  with  neutralization 
of  the  resulting  acid  sulpho-mixture  by  means  of  potassium 
or  sodium  hydrate,  or  ammonia. 

A  few  examples  of  the  methods  of  using  the  sulpholeates 
in  tanning  leather  are  given.  First  proceeding,  upon  hides 
to  be  bark  tanned.  The  well  cleaned  and  properly  swelled 
hides  are  placed  in  a  neutral,  five  to  seven  per  cent,  sulph- 
oleate  solution.  After  the  expiration  of  a  few  hours  they 
are  to  be  taken  out,  allowed  to  drip  and  to  dry  in  the  air  or 
in  a  damp  heated  chamber,  whereupon  after  complete  dry- 
ing they  are  washed,  and  the  operation  is  repeated  to  com- 
pletion. The  remaining  oil  preparation  can  always  be 
employed  anew,  without  particular  addition  thereto.  The 
hide  thus  prepared  and  nearly  tanned  is  next  placed  in  the 
tan  vat  in  the  usual  manner,  or  may  be  subjected  to  any 
other  process,  as  to  a  process  of  quick  tanning. 


166 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  hide  with  the  usual  quantity  of  tan  stuff  absorbed  is 
tanned  in  half  the  time,  is  much  better  in  quality  and 
never  brittle.  The  leather  is  now  treated  as  usual,  and 
fatted  or  oiled,  though  again  in  place  of  oil,  fat  or  degras  a 
six  (greater  or  less)  per  cent,  sulpholeate  solution  may  be 
employed,  and  finally  the  hide  is  dried  and  washed.  The 
washing,  however,  may  be  omitted.  Second  proceeding : 
The  raw  hides  are  softened,  cleaned,  swelled  and  tanned  in 
the  usual  manner,  and  then  instead  of  being  smeared  or 
stuffed  with  fats,  oils  or  degras  they  are  passed  through  a 
seven  to  ten  per  cent,  solution  of  the  oils  in  lukewarm 
water,  whereupon  they  are  allowed  to  dip  and  are  then 
slowly  dried.  The  leather  is  then  at  once  bark-tanned  and 
may  be  colored  with  logwood  with  much  finer  effect  than 
ordinary  leather. 

Alum-tawing  with  Turkey -red  Oils. 

The  skins  tanned  by  the  usual  process  of  tawing  have 
the  disadvantage  that  by  water  a  part  of  the  alum  clay  or 
argillaceous  earth  is  withdrawn  from  them,  whereby  their 
strength  is  much  reduced.  This  evil  can  best  be  overcome 
by  the  application  of  the  sulpholeates,  either  before  or  after 
the  actual  tanning  with  alum  and  salt.  The  leather 
acquires  by  this  treatment  increased  solidity,  coupled  with 
flexibility  and  softness  and  a  finer  appearance.  The  sulph- 
oleate solutions  are  admirably  adapted  to  replace  the  egg- 
yolk  used  in  the  manufacture  of  kid  gloves.  To  the  oil 
solution,  according  to  the  French  method,  some  phenol 
(carbolic  acid)  is  added,  although  many  other  suitable 
soluble  substance,  such  as  salicylic  acid,  tar  oil,  etc.,  may 
be  employed  to  counteract  the  too  strong  heating  of  the 
stuffed  skins  when  laid  or  spread  or  stored  to  cure.  The 
sulpholeates  may  also  be  used  in  the  chrome  process,  result- 
ing in  increased  solidity  and  toughness,  together  with 
softness  and  pliability,  than  results  from  the  application 
of  soap  solutions. 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  167 

Oil-tmming  or  Chamoising. 

The  skins  prepared  in  the  usual  manner  are  passed 
through  a  twenty-five  per  cent.  Turkey-red  oil  solution, 
whereupon  they  are  allowed  to  dry,  are  laid  in  a  moderately 
warm  room  in  a  heap  and  are  carefully  covered  up.  They 
are  then  hung  up  in  the  air  and  allowed  to  dry  slowly, 
when  they  are  again  oiled  in  the  same  solution  after  they 
have  been  laid  in  lukewarm  water  to  rid  them  of  any  ad- 
hering unchanged  alkaline  sulpholeate,  are  filled,  again 
laid  in  a  heap,  again  dried,  and  then  treated  with  a  weak 
solution  of  alkali.  The  dried  leather  is  then  stretched  and 
rubbed  to  give  it  flexibility,  which  has  been  somewhat  lost 
in  drying,  and  is  then  completely  oil-tanned. 

The  results  may  be  variously  modified,  by  greater  or  less 
concentration  of  the  Turkey-red  oil  solution,  by  higher 
temperature  in  drying,  as  also  by  more  frequent  passes  or 
dippings.  In  all  cases  the  absorption  of  the  fats  and  fatty 
acids  takes  place  sooner,  more  evenly  and  with  greater  cer- 
tainty than  in  the  ordinary  procedure ;  and  there  is  no  loss 
of  fat,  because  the  remainder  of  the  solution  may  be  applied 
with  equal  effect  upon  a  fresh  lot  of  skins.  Combinations 
with  the  salts  of  alumina  may  also  be  employed  here. 

The  method  preferred  is  as  follows :  Steep  the  prepared 
skins  in  a  solution  containing  preferably  fifteen  per  cent, 
of  the  soluble  oil ;  dry,  and  if  necessary  repeat  the  opera- 
tion, and  then  proceed  in  the  usual  manner  of  tanning, 
according  to  the  kind  of  leather  wanted. 

This  process  of  alum  tawing 
Has  for  its  object  the  facilitating  of  the  process  of  tanning 
by  reducing  the  time  consumed,  and  to  leave  a  salt  in  the 
skins  that  will  form  a  basic  mordant  for  the  coloring 
matter,  and  at  the  same  time,  when  the  skins  are  finished, 
they  will  be  soft,  flexible  and  waterproof. 

The  skins  are  treated  in  the  usual  manner  to  remove  the 
hair  or  wool,  limed,  bated  and  washed,  and  thus  made  soft 


168 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  flexible.  A  solution  is  then  made  of  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  gallons  of  water,  to  which  have  been  added  nine 
pounds  of  alum,  two  pounds  of  salt,  and  thirty  pounds  of 
wheat-flour,  the  whole  being  thoroughly  agitated  while 
subjected  to  a  heat  of  about  82.4°  to  86°  Fah.  for  fifteen 
minutes.  To  the  solution  are  added  about  twelve  pounds 
of  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  the  solution  is  agitated  for  another 
five  minutes. 

The  mixture  is  then  placed  in  a  suitable  drum  capable  of 
holding  about  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  the  whole 
allowed  to  revolve  for  from  thirty  to  sixty  minutes,  or  until 
the  skins  have  absorbed  the  contents  of  the  drum.  This 
completes  the  first  step  in  the  process,  and  is  what  is  com- 
monly known  as  ^'  tawing."  The  skins  are  next  removed 
from  the  drum,  and  hung  up  and  dried  out.  Next  a  solu- 
tion of  sal  soda  is  made,  composed  of  one  pound  of  soda  to  a 
gallon  of  water.  In  a  sal  soda  solution  made  up  in  these 
proportions,  and  in  quantity  sufficient  to  treat  the  lot  of 
skins,  the  skins  are  placed  until  they  are  thoroughly  soft 
and  flexible,  and  have  assumed  a  neutral  condition.  They 
are  then  w^ashed  in  lukewarm  water  to  remove  all  foreign 
matter  and  traces  of  soda,  and  are  then  placed  in  the  follow- 
ing bath  :  This  bath  is  made  b}^  adding  sulphuric  acid  to 
water  until  the  mixture  assumes  a  density  of  one  to  two 
degrees  Baume.  To  this  solution  is  added  as  much  of 
hydrated  sesquioxide  of  chromium  or  chromic  hydrate  as 
will  dissolve,  and  no  harm  is  done  when  there  is  a  surplus 
of  chromic  hydrate  remaining  in  the  vessel.  Should  the 
solution  not  be  neutral,  it  may  be  made  so  by  the  addition 
of  sal  soda  until  this  result  has  been  accomplished.  The 
skins  having  been  neutralized  as  above  mentioned,  and 
afterwards  washed,  are  placed  in  the  chromium  solution, 
and  the  whole  agitated  for  from  five  to  fifteen  hours.  They 
are  then  removed,  washed,  colored  and  finished  in  the  usual 
way. 

The  mordant  in  the  skins  when  combined  with  the  sub- 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  169 

sequent  coloring  matter  permeates  the  entire  fibre  of  the 
skins,  and  greatly  adds  to  the  lasting  quality  of  the  color 
and  durability  of  the  leather.  This  process  has  been 
patented  by  Messrs.  A.  Warter  and  H.  C.  Koegel,  of 
Newark,  N.  J.,  who  claim  as  new  a  tawed  or  alum  tanned 
skin  subsequently  impregnated  with  the  sesquioxide  of 
chromium. 

The  use  of  formic  aldehyd  as  a  tanning  agent 

Is  not  generally  known  among  tanners ;  and  yet  leather 
is  made  with  this  material,  the  use  of  which  is  not  compli- 
cated or  uncertain,  but  on  the  contrary  very  simple  and 
safe.  This  process  of  tanning  with  formic  aldehyd  relates 
particularly  to  goat-skins,  but  there  is  no  reason  why  the 
process  cannot  be  applied  with  equally  good  results  to  other 
classes  of  skins,  and  even  to  hides.  The  skins  are  subjected 
to  the  treatment  with  formic  aldehyd  in  such  a  manner  that 
they  become  thoroughly  permeated  with  it,  the  result  being 
that  the  gelatinous  constituents  of  the  skins  are  rendered 
insoluble  and  otherwise  chemically  changed  from  raw"  skin 
into  leather. 

The  skins  are  prepared  for  the  process  of  tanning  in  the 
usual  manner  of  soaking,  liming  and  bating  or  drenching, 
and  are  then  subjected  to  the  action  of  formic  aldehyd  in 
its  natural  gaseous  condition  or  in  aqueous  solution  ;  the 
strength  of  the  solution  and  the  degree  of  concentration  of 
the  gas  and  the  length  of  time  consumed  by  the  treatment 
varying  according  to  the  character  and  thickness  of  the 
skin. 

When  the  formic  aldehyd  is  used  in  the  form  of  a  solu- 
tion, the  skins  are  treated  at  the  beginning  of  the  process  to 
a  three  per  cent,  solution  of  the  material,  and  in  this  solu- 
tion the  skins  are  treated  in  a  closed  drum  for  about  ten 
minutes.  At  intervals  of  ten  minutes  formic  aldehyd  is 
added  to  the  skins  in  the  drum  until  at  the  end  of  one  hour 
enough  of  the  material  should  have  been  added  to  have 


170 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


brought  up  the  strength  to  ten  per  cent.  In  this  way  the 
skins  are  treated  to  a  liquor  of  gradually  increasing 
strength.  For  ordinary  goat-skins  a  period  of  one  hour  is 
sufficient  to  tan  them  thoroughly.  During  the  process  the 
skins  can  be  subjected  to  the  ordinary  tests  made  by  tan- 
ners, and  should  always  be  left  in  the  solution  and 
drummed  until  the  thickest  portions  indicate  thorough 
conversion  into  leather,  by  losing  their  raw  feel  and  ap- 
pearance and  becoming  colorless  and  leathery  to  the  touch. 

When  the  formic  aldehyd  is  used  in  a  gaseous  state  the 
skins  are  suspended  in  a  chamber  that  can  be  hermetically 
sealed,  and  that  can  be  connected  with  any  suitable  form 
of  apparatus  for  generating  formic  aldehyd  gas.  The 
skins  being  suspended  within  this  chamber,  and  the  door 
closed,  the  gas  is  introduced,  and  the  skins  subjected  to  the 
action  of  the  gases  or  mixed  gas  and  vapor,  until  the 
ordinary  tests  indicate  that  the  skins  have  been  thoroughly 
permeated  with  the  tanning  agent.  As  many  ordinary 
prepared  goatskins  as  can  be  suspended  in  a  tight  chamber 
having  a  capacity  of  about  two  thousand  cubic  feet  may  be 
thoroughly  tanned  within  a  period  of  from  six  to  ten  hours, 
by  the  action  of  the  quantity  of  formic  aldehyd  gas  gen- 
erated by  the  ordinary  process  from  one  pint  of  wood  alco- 
hol. The  formic  aldehyd  may  also  be  employed  in  the 
gaseous  state  by  the  vaporization  of  an  aqueous  or  alcoholic 
solution,  and  when  used  in  this  way  it  is  deemed  desirable 
to  add  a  proportion  of  chloride  of  calcium  to  the  formic 
aldehyd  solution.  For  this  purpose  two  hundred  parts  of 
chlorid  of  calcium  for  each  fifteen  hundred  parts  of  formic 
aldehyde  solution  suffice.  In  case  the  gas  is  employed  in 
connection  with  aqueous  vapor,  live  or  heated  steam  is  not 
employed,  but  rather  a  cool  vapor  or  moisture  charged 
atmosphere. 

It  sometimes  occurs  that  a  pack  of  skins  by  reason  of 
their  unusual  thickness,  or  from  any  other  cause  may  re- 
quire a  strength  of  the  tanning  solution  differing  somewhat 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  171 

from  that  employed  in  tanning  ordinary  skins,  and  it  is  at 
once  evident  that  in  such  case  the  tanner  may  by  selecting 
a  fair  specimen  of  the  lot  and  using  the  same  as  a  test,  more 
readily  determine  the  strength  of  the  solution.  Leather 
that  is  made  by  this  process  of  tanning  is  distinguished 
from  all  other  leathers  by  any  of  the  following  tests :  By 
coming  from  the  tanning  bath  free  from  any  discoloration 
caused  by  the  tanning  agent ;  by  its  freedom  from  mineral 
deposits  such  as  are  deposited  in  the  skins  in  both  vegetable 
and  mineral  tannages,  and  by  the  readily  discernible  pres- 
ence of  the  formic  aldehyd  in  the  skin. 

The  following  described  process  is  a  French  one, 

And  by  its  use  it  is  claimed  that  the  cohesion  of  the  fibres 
is  destroyed  and  putrefaction  is  prevented  without  the  help 
or  the  formation  of  any  crystallizable  salt,  which  would 
have  the  effect  of  reducing  the  strength  of  the  skins.  The 
result  is  that  skins  remain  permanently  flexible  and  lose 
none  of  the  strength  they  possessed  before  being  treated, 
nor  has  water,  whether  hot  or  cold,  any  action  whatever  on 
a  skin  thus  prepared.  This  method  makes  the  skins  as 
firm,  as  supple  and  as  elastic  as  may  be  required.  It  also 
leaves  the  skins  white,  and  when  dyed,  the  colors  become 
rapidly  and  completely  fixed. 

After  the  usual  processes  of  preparing  the  skins  are  fin- 
ished, the  skins  are  immersed  in  a  bath  containing  one  part 
of  sulphite  of  aluminium  to  ten  parts  of  water,  and  they  are 
allowed  to  remain  in  this  bath  from  twenty  to  forty  min- 
utes, according  to  their  nature  and  thickness.  Sulphite  of 
aluminium  possesses,  among  other  essential  properties,  those 
of  being  both  unstable  and  reducing.  On  that  account  the 
organic  compounds  contained  in  the  skins  are  sufficient  to 
determine  the  decomposition  of  the  said  sulphite,  thus  caus- 
ing sulphurous  acid  gas  to  be  given  off"  in  the  bath  or  tank. 
In  reducing  the  organic  compounds  contained  in  the  fibres, 
the  said  sulphurous  acid  gas  becomes  transformed,  through 


172 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  presence  of  the  water,  into  sulphuric  acid,  which  com- 
bines with  the  alumina  resulting  from  the  decomposition  of 
the  sulphite  to  constitute  sulphate  of  aluminium.  The 
action  of  the  bath  is  rendered  more  vigorous  by  a  small 
addition  of  hydrochloric  acid,  intended  to  facilitate  the  lib- 
eration of  the  sulphurous  acid. 

When  removed  from  the  bath  the  skins  are  allowed  to 
drain  for  a  few  minutes.  They  are  then  immersed  in  an 
ammoniacal  bath.  The  ammonia  being  a  stronger  base 
than  alumina,  separates  the  latter  from  the  sulphate  and 
chloride,  which  thoroughly  impregnate  the  skins.  The 
skins  thus  receive  the  alumina  in  the  form  of  gelatinous 
precipitate  of  hydrated  alumina.  The  skins  are  taken  out 
after  a  few  moments  and  left  to  drain.  The  proportions  of 
the  second  bath  necessary  to  produce  the  precipitation  are, 
twelve  parts  of  water  to  one  part  of  ammonia  solution.  Upon 
the  completion  of  these  operations,  in  order  to  dress  the 
skins,  they  are  caused  to  absorb  within  fulling  mills  a  firm 
paste,  constituted  of  eight  parts  of  wheat  flour  to  one  part  of 
glycerine,  to  which  latter  is  added  a  small  quantity  of  the 
precipitate  of  the  ammonia  bath  in  order  to  obtain  a  suffici- 
ently firm  paste.  The  paste  should  be  completely  absorbed 
before  the  skins  are  removed  from  the  fulling  mills  and 
before  they  are  dried  out,  if  they  are  intended  to  be  used  in 
a  white  condition  or  before  drying  them,  which  operation 
may  be  undertaken  at  once  without  further  preparation. 
The  skins  are  then  finished  in  the  usual  manner. 

The  inventor  of  this  process  claims  for  it  that  it  makes  leather 
that  is  waterproof,  elastic,  pliable,  heat  and  frost  proof  , 

That  is  to  say  not  readily  aff'ected  by  heat  or  cold.  It 
consists  simply  of  a  two-bath  process  of  chrome  tanning,  in 
which  neatsfoot  oil  is  used  both  in  the  first  and  second  bath. 

The  first  bath  to  which  the  prepared  hides  or  skins  are 
subjected  is  a  solution  of  bichromate  of  potash — five  pounds 
for  every  hundred  pounds  of  hides  or  skins,  and  two  and 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  173 

one-half  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid.  To  these  ingredients 
mixed  with  the  quantity  of  water  required,  is  added  five 
per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  hides  or  skins  of  neatsfoot 
oil.  In  the  solution  prepared  of  the  above  ingredients  the 
hides  or  skins  are  treated  in  a  drum  until  the  liquor  has 
entirely  penetrated  them. 

The  second  part  of  the  process  is  a  bath  of  hyposulphite 
of  soda  mixed  with  sulphuric  acid  and  neatsfoot  oil  in  the 
proportions  of  ten  pounds  of  the  hyposulphite  of  soda, 
seven  and  one-half  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  and  five 
pounds  of  neatsfoot  oil  for  one-hundred  pounds  of  hides  or 
skins.  Upon  coming  from  the  first  bath  the  skins  are  sub- 
jected to  the  second  bath  either  in  a  drum  or  a  paddle-vat, 
after  which  they  are  washed  and  dried  out.  The  hides  or 
skins  may  also  be  treated  with  the  liquor  of  hyposulphite 
of  soda,  acid  and  oil  as  a  first  bath,  and  then  afterwards  to 
the  solution  of  chromic  acid  and  oil. 

In  using  the  named  articles  in  connection  with  neatsfoot 
oil,  it  causes  the  chromic  acid  to  be  reduced  to  chromic 
oxide,  as  the  oil  becomes  oxidized  by  mixture  with  the 
chrome  compounds,  and  forms  in  this  way  a  new  insoluble 
compound  that  penetrates  the  fibres  of  the  skins  to  com- 
plete the  tanning  or  tawing  effect,  and  makes  the  leather 
more  pliant  and  waterproof. 

Patented  by  Chas.  Knees,  Oshawa,  Canada. 

New  Method  for  Belt,  Shoe  and  Leather  Laces. 

The  description  that  follows  relates  to  a  new  method 
of  making  leather,  especially  adapted  for  belt,  shoe  and 
leather  laces,  by  the  chrome  process.  This  is  a  patented 
process,  the  patentee  being  one  James  C.  McConnell. 

The  hides  are  treated  in  the  preparatory  process  of  lim- 
ing, unhairing  and  bating  the  same  as  any  hides  are  treated 
for  a  chrome  process.  The  first  step  in  the  making  of  the 
leather  consists  of  drumming  the  hides  in  a  drum,  or  pad- 
dling them  in  a  vat  in  a  solution  of  alum  and  salt.  This 


174 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


is  made  up  of  two  pounds  of  alum  and  four  pounds  of  salt 
for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  hides.  In  this  liquor  the 
hides  are  treated  until  they  have  absorbed  the  same.  The 
hides  carry  sufficient  water  as  they  come  from  the  washing 
process  to  absorb  the  alum  and  salt.  After  this  treatment 
the  hides  are  allowed  to  press,  drain  and  partly  dry,  when 
they  are  split  and  shaved.  The  tanning  is  then  completed 
by  drumming  the  hides,  or  paddling  them  in  a  vat,  in  a 
chrome  or  mineral  tannage  of  any  kind,  after  which  they 
are  washed  and  again  partly  dried  to  get  them  in  proper 
condition  for  fat-liquoring  or  stuffing. 

The  stuffing  mixture  is  prepared  as  follows  :  Four  ounces 
of  common  potash,  or  other  alkali,  are  boiled  in  one-half 
gallon  of  water  until  dissolved.  Then  two  pounds  of  any 
good  degras  and  four  pounds  of  tallow  are  added,  and  the 
whole  brought  to  a  quick  boil.  The  compound  requires  to 
be  thoroughly  cooked.  Then  one-quarter  gallon  of  neats- 
foot  oil  is  added,  and  the  compound  stirred  until  the  tem- 
perature reaches  a  little  below  boiling-point.  Then  the 
compound  while  hot  is  applied  to  the  leather,  the  quantity 
named  being  used  for  one  hundred  pounds  of  leather,  at  a 
temperature  of  150  degrees  F. 

After  the  leather  is  stuffed  it  is  set  out  and  oiled  off  on 
the  grain  side  with  a  light  coat  of  neatsfoot  oil,  then 
stretched  in  frames  until  thoroughly  dry.  After  this  it  is 
moistened  and  staked  and  softened,  and  the  staking,  work- 
ing and  drying  are  continued  until  the  leather  is  soft  and 
dry.  Then  it  is  coated  on  both  sides  with  a  light  coat 
of  paste  made  with  tallow,  starch-flour,  soap  and  water 
boiled  together.  Then  the  leather  is  dried  out  again  and 
finished  in  the  usual  way.  As  is  the  case  when  alum  and 
salt  are  used  before  the  chrome  process  is  applied,  the  object 
of  using  them  is  to  pickle  the  hides  so  that  they  will  not 
draw  or  pucker  when  put  into  the  tan  liquor,  and  to  pre- 
serve them  so  that  they  can  be  kept  some  time  before  they 
are  chrome-tanned.    By  first  tawing  the  hides  in  alum  and 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  175 

salt,  and  splitting  them  before  they  are  chrome-tanned,  a 
saving  of  chrome  materials  is  effected.  An  interesting 
feature  of  this  process  is  in  the  fact  that  the  salt  and  alum 
treatment  permits  the  leather  to  be  stuffed  at  a  high  tem- 
perature, thus  insuring  a  more  thorough  penetration  of  the 
stuffing  greases  than  is  usually  the  case,  and  the  leather  is 
made  very  elastic  and  durable,  and  peculiarly  suitable  for 
lace  leather. 

Lace  leather,  made  by  a  chrome  process  in  this  way,  does 
not  harden,  but  remains  strong,  soft  and  pliable  until  it  is 
worn  out.  The  stuffing  is  done  in  a  warm  drum,  and  all 
the  ingredients  must  be  completely  incorporated  with  each 
other  and  thoroughly  taken  up  by  the  leather  before  it  is 
dried  out. 

Process  with  bark  liquor,  saltpetre,  alum  and  glauher  salt. 

Among  the  various  processes  that  have  been  brought 
forward  for  the  purpose  of  tanning  leather  with  bark 
liquors  in  less  time  than  is  commonly  consumed,  is  one  by 
which  the  bark  liquor  is  supplemented  by  a  solution  of 
saltpetre,  alum  and  glauber  salt. 

It  is  well  known  that  by  the  older  methods  of  tanning 
the  hides,  after  the  hair  has  been  removed,  are  placed  in 
weak  liquor,  and  for  a  period  of  from  three  to  four  months, 
are  left  in  the  same,  with  more  or  less  frequent  handling 
and  changing  of  the  liquor,  until  finally  they  are  tanned. 
Much  care  has  to  be  exercised  lest  too  strong  liquor  be 
used,  in  which  case  the  tannic  acid  of  the  same  will  act 
upon  the  grain  of  the  hides,  rendering  it  crisp  and  brittle, 
materially  impairing  the  value  of  the  leather.  By  combin- 
ing the  above-named  chemicals  with  bark  liquor,  they 
unite  with  the  liquor  in  such  a  way  as  to  render  the  action 
on  the  gelatine  and  fiber  of  the  hide  harmless,  and  at  the 
same  time  admits  of  the  hides  remaining  in  the  vats  in 
which  they  are  first  placed  until  they  are  completely 
tanned. 


176 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  tanning  liquor  is  prepared  in  sufficient  quantity, 
either  from  oak  or  hemlock  bark,  of  18°  or  20°  strength  of 
the  barkometer  to  cover  fifty  skins,  this  being  the  usual 
number  placed  in  each  vat.  To  the  liquor  is  added  a 
solution  made  as  follows  :  Four  pounds  of  saltpetre,  four 
pounds  of  alum,  and  five  pounds  of  glauber  salt,  dissolved 
in  hot  water.  After  this  solution  has  been  added  to  the 
bark  liquor,  the  skins  are  placed  in  the  mixture,  the  skins 
and  the  mixture  being  agitated  once  an  hour  for  the  first 
twelve  hours.  After  this  has  been  done,  the  skins  may 
remain  in  the  liquor  six  days,  unless  they  are  very  heavy, 
in  which  case  they  may  remain  eight  days  in  the  vat,  at  the 
end  of  which  time  they  will  be  found  to  be  thoroughly 
tanned.  They  are  then  to  be  washed,  dried  and  finished 
in  the  usual  manner,  unless  they  are  to  be  sold  in  the 
rough  or  made  into  sole  leather,  in  which  case  they  should 
be  rinsed  in  a  vat  containing  'sufficient  water,  to  which  are 
added  three  pounds  of  cream  of  tartar.  This  does  not  en- 
hance the  value  of  the  leather  more  than  to  give  it  a  nice, 
clean,  bright  appearance. 

Patented  by  J.  W.  Hitt,  Lisle,  N.  Y. 

This  process  of  tanning  consists  of  the  use  of  an  antiseptic 
tanning  composition 

For  leather  intended  to  be  used  as  a  lining  for  horse  collars, 
all  kinds  of  harness  pads,  and  similar  appliances.  To  make 
such  hides  more  appropriate  for  this  particular  purpose, 
the  hair  is  not  removed  from  the  hides,  because  resting  next 
to  the  skin  of  the  animal  they  form  a  soft  bolster,  are  cool 
because  this  hairy  layer  permits  free  evaporation  and 
escape  of  the  perspiration,  keep  as  a  consequence  the 
harness  dry,  and  protect  it  against  mold  aud  rot,  and 
finally,  by  their  softness  prevent  the  growth  of  sores  on  the 
animal. 

To  tan  and  prepare  hides  for  such  linings,  so  as  to  keep 
them  from  rotting  from  constant  contact  with  the  moist 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  177 

perspiration  ;  to  make  them  soft  and  tough  ;  to  preserve  the 
roots  of  the  hair  in  a  manner  to  prevent  the  same  from 
falling  out ;  to  render  them  harmless  and  salubrious  by 
proper  medical  and  antiseptic  treatment,  and  to  keep  moths 
and  other  insects  out,  has  been  fraught  with  many  diffi- 
culties. 

In  the  first  place  all  fatty  substances  which  might  tend 
to  cause  fermentation  and  rot  must  be  eradicated  ;  secondly, 
to  make  and  keep  the  leather  pliable  and  to  prevent  the 
perspiration  of  the  animal  from  entering  and  saturating  the 
same,  setting  up  fermentation  and  causing  rot,  its  pores 
must  be  filled  with  an  unctuous  and  preserving  substance ; 
thirdly,  the  pores  of  the  hide  should  be  contracted  to 
toughen  the  leather,  and  also  to  guard  against  all  possi- 
bilities of  any  of  the  hair  falling  out,  and,  lastly,  the  odor 
caused  and  remaining  from  the  tanning  piocess  should  be 
eliminated.  The  means  selected  to  comply  with  all  these 
conditions  must  be  of  such  a  character  as  to  be  not  only 
harmless  to  the  skin  of  the  animal,  but  in  addition  should 
have  such  medical  and  antiseptic  qualities  as  to  prevent 
sores,  to  heal  them  and  prevent  their  spread  in  cases  where 
they  exist,  and  finally  they  should  harden  the  skin  in 
places  where  the  pads  are  in  constant  contact  and  bear 
on  it. 

To  fulfill  the  first  condition,  corrosive  sublimate  is  the 
most  suitable  means.  It  acts  as  an  antiseptic  and  germicide 
by  killing  or  neutralizing  all  such  matter  which  might 
cause  decomposition.  For  the  second  requirement  phenol 
(carbolic  acid)  or  the  preparations  derived  therefrom  are 
used.  It  or  they  fill  the  pores  of  the  hide,  and  by  unctuous 
properties  keep  the  same  soft  and  pliable.  The  third  condi- 
tion is  best  complied  with  by  the  application  of  salicylic 
acid,  which  contracts  the  pores  of  the  hide  and  toughens  it. 
The  fourth  condition  is  satisfied  by  menthol,  which  by  its 
penetrating  odor  eliminates  the  scent  of  the  tanning  process 
adhering  to  ihe  hide. 
12 


178 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Ill  cases  where  pads  lined  with  leather  so  prepared  come 
in  contact  with  sores  on  the  animal,  the  corrosive  sublimate, 
in  combination  with  the  phenol  contained  in  the  pores  of 
the  lining,  will  stop  the  spread  of  the  sores,  and  by  virtue 
of  the  antiseptical  and  germicidal  properties  of  these  drugs 
will  heal  the  sores  and  prevent  their  recurrence.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  named  effects  on  the  skin  of  the  animal,  these 
drugs  in  combination  with  the  salicylic  acid  will  also 
harden  the  same.  Hides  so  saturated  are  fully  germ  and 
moth  proof,  because  the  drugs  used  in  their  treatment  are 
inimical  to  insect  life. 

The  chemicals  named  may  be  applied  by  adding  them  to 
the  ordinary  tanning  liquor  prepared  from  sumac  or  bark 
in  which  the  hides  are  immersed,  and  in  which  case  the 
procedure  is  the  same  as  the  usual  tanning  process,  or  they 
may  be  applied  as  a  dressing  by  means  of  a  brush  after  the 
ordinary  tanning  process  has  been  gone  through  with.  The 
temperature  of  the  composition  is  preferably  from  60°  to  70° 
Fah.  The  menthol  in  a  solution  of  five  parts  dissolved  in 
ninety-five  parts  of  alcohol  is  best  applied  separatel}^  and 
lastly  in  the  form  of  a  spray.  As  regards  the  proportion  of 
said  chemicals,  one  part  of  corrosive  sublimate,  eight  parts 
of  phenol,  and  one  part  of  salicylic  acid,  all  dissolved  in 
sixty  parts  of  water,  produce  the  best  results.  The  quantity 
of  water  may  be  varied,  however,  in  order  to  produce  a 
more  or  less  concentrated  solution,  by  the  strength  of  which 
the  duration  of  the  tanning  process  may  be  lengthened  or 
shortened.  Equivalents  may  of  course  be  substituted  where 
they  produce  the  same  results.  For  instance,  boracic  acid 
may  be  used  in  place  of  the  corrosive  sublimate,  and  also 
instead  of  the  salicylic  acid.  For  the  phenol  any  of  its 
species  may  be  used. 

Hides  or  leather  so  prepared  preserve  remarkably  well, 
and  are  rendered  exceedingly  tough  and  tenacious  without 
losing  their  pliability  and  softness. 

The  preparation,  if  mixed  with  the  ordinary  tanning 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  179 

liquor,  will  hasten  the  whole  tanniDg  process  and  keep  said 
liquor  from  getting  sour  or  spoiled. 

Patented  by  Julius  Engelke,  Cincinnati,  0. 

The  following  process  of  rapid  tanning 

Is  a  patented  one,  the  patentee  being  one  John  Hoelck,  of 
Chicago.  The  object  of  this  process  is  to  accelerate  the 
operation  and  to  reduce  the  cost  of  manufacture,  and  at  the 
same  time  produce  a  leather  the  quality  of  which  is  superior 
to  any  tanned  leather  on  the  market.  The  usual  results  of 
any  attempts  to  hasten  the  process  of  tanning  are  that  the 
quality  of  the  leather  is  injured  more  or  less.  The  hides  to 
be  treated  by  this  process  are  handled  as  follows :  They  are 
soaked  in  clean  fresh  water  over  night.  Then  they  are 
fleshed  and  washed  in  the  wash-wheel  in  order  to  remove 
from  them  the  salt  and  dirt,  and  are  then  again  put  into 
clean  water,  and  left  therein  over  night.  The  hides  are 
then  tied  together  head  to  butt,  though  when  intended  for 
belting,  the  heads  and  bellies  may  be  cut  off  and  prepared 
for  sole  leather,  and  are  then  put  into  a  lime  vat  and  by 
means  of  chains  and  reels  handled  from  one  lime  vat  to 
another  for  about  eight  hours.  The  hides  are  then  trans- 
ferred to  warm  water  vats  and  treated  for  six  or  eight  hours 
with  water  at  a  temperature  of  about  eighty  degrees,  and 
:are  passed  from  one  vat  to  another. 

The  hides  are  then  allowed  to  remain  in  w^arm  water  of 
about  eighty  degrees  for  a  time,  say  one  night,  after  which 
the  hair  can  be  readily  removed.  After  the  unhairing, 
which  may  be  done  in  the  usual  manner,  the  hides  are 
washed  in  clean  water  and  freed  from  lime,  by  the  working 
incident  to  unhairing  or  short-hairing.  Being  thus  freed 
of  lime  by  working  on  the  grain  side  and  short  hairing,  they 
are  worked  on  the  flesh  side,  fleshed  or  shaved.  When 
cleaned  and  shaved,  the  hides  are  put  into  clean  cold  water 
for  a  time,  say  over  night,  to  swell  them,  although  this  is 
not  absolutely  necessary,  and  then  into  a  coloring  wheel. 


180 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


with  a  liquor  of  about  twenty  per  cent,  cutch  or  catechu. 
Enough  of  this  liquor  is  required  to  cover  the  hides  and  to 
produce  an  even  color.  To  this  liquor  are  next  added  about 
thirty  pounds  of  common  salt  for  every  thirty  hides  under 
treatment,  and  the  wheel  kept  in  operation  for  about  four 
hours  to  insure  the  hides  being  evenly  colored.  To  the 
liquor  are  then  mixed  three  pounds  of  alum,  one  pound  of 
salt,  one  twenty-fourth  pound  of  borax  and  one-half  pound 
of  flour  (preferably  rye  flour)  to  each  hide  under  treatment, 
and  enough  of  this  liquor  is  used  to  keep  the  hides  covered ; 
and  they  are  left  in  this  liquor  from  two  to  four  days,  being 
handled  with  the  wheel  for  two  to  three  hours  each  day. 
The  strength  of  the  liquor  is  then  renewed  two  or  three 
times,  according  to  the  weight  of  the  hides,  and  the  hides 
handled  therein  until  they  are  sufficiently  tanned.  The 
hides  are  then  hung  up  in  a  drying  loft  and  when  thor- 
oughly dry,  they  are  dampened  in  a  vat  of  catechu,  at  a 
temperature  of  about  sixty  degrees,  containing  from  twenty 
to  thirty  per  cent,  of  catechu.  The  hides  may  now  be  put 
into  a  stuffing  wheel  for  about  one  hour,  then  taken  out  and 
oiled  with  neatsfoot  oil  on  the  grain  side,  and  then  put  back 
into  the  stuffing  wheel  for  about  an  hour. 

The  hides  are  now  in  suitable  condition  for  glove  leather 
and  similar  uses ;  or  they  may  be  stuff'ed  with  a  stuffing 
made  from  tallow  and  wood  tar,  composed  of  one  hundred 
pounds  of  tallow  and  twenty  pounds  of  wood  tar  boiled  and 
skimmed  until  they  unite,  and  kept  working  in  the  wheel 
until  dry.  They  may  then  be  worked  in  any  suitable 
manner  until  they  are  well  stretched  out.  The  leather 
treated  in  this  way  may  be  finished  for  either  belting  or 
lacing.  It  may  be  cut  up,  dampened  and  shaved,  stuffed 
again  with  tallow  and  tar,  and  also  neatsfoot  oil,  when 
desired,  in  a  stuffing  wheel  while  still  damp  for  about  an 
hour,  and  then  dried  for  lace  leather  ;  or  it  may  be  damp- 
ened, if  too  dry,  in  liquor,  same  as  before,  stuff'ed  again  and 
set  out  on  a  table  and  cut  up  and  stretched  for  belting ;  or 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  181 

it  may  be  treated  to  make  harness  leather,  being  blackened 
before  oiling  and  otherwise  treated  the  same  as  for  lace 
leather.  Other  kinds  of  leather  may  be  finished  in  the 
usual  way.  Instead  of  stuffing  the  hides,  they  may,  after 
being  dampened  with  catechu  to  fill  them  with  tannin,  be 
treated  with  a  tanning  liquor  to  set  the  catechu,  as  in  the 
ordinary  process  of  tanning  to  make  sole  and  similar 
leathers.  When  finished  in  this  way,  it  is  preferable  to  use 
a  somewhat  stronger  liquor  for  filling,  say  one  containing 
sixty  per  cent,  of  catechu.  Of  course  modifications  may  be 
made  in  the  use  of  this  process  according  to  the  kind  of 
hides  being  treated  and  the  kind  of  leather  desired. 

Another  process  of  tanning  hides,  somewhat  similar  to  the 
foregoing, 

Is  carried  out  as  follows :  The  hides  are  soaked,  fleshed  and 
unhaired  and  bated  in  the  usual  manner  or  in  any  manner 
desired.  They  are  then  handled  two  or  three  times  a  day 
for  three  or  four  days  in  a  solution  of  alum,  salt  and  cutch. 
Good  results  have  been  obtained  by  the  use  of  three  pounds 
of  alum,  one  pound  of  salt,  and  a  half  pound  of  cutch  to  a 
sixty  pound  hide.  These  proportions  may  be  varied. 
Other  articles  may  be  substituted  for  the  said  chemicals,  as 
for  instance  saltpetre  for  salt,  and  japonica  for  cutch.  After 
treating  the  hides  as  above,  they  are  hung  for  two  or  three 
days  in  bark  liquor  formed  of  tan  bark  or  bark  extract  and 
water,  after  which  they  are  dried,  dampened  and  stuffed, 
and  finished  by  any  well-known  method  of  finishing  leather 
according  to  the  purpose  for  which  the  leather  is  to  be  used. 
The  best  way  to  use  the  bark  liquor  is  to  make  it  weak  at 
first  when  the  hides  are  first  placed  in  it,  say  ten  degrees 
strong,  and  to  gradually  increase  the  strength  of  the  liquor 
until  it  is  about  thirty  degrees.  This  process  results  in 
making  a  soft,  pliable,  well-filled  leather,  that  may  be  fin- 
ished in  various  ways.  A  short  quick  liming  for  three  or 
four  days  in  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  prepares  the 
hides  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner  for  the  tannage. 


182 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


A  composition  oj  matter  in  connection  with  processes  of  tanning, 
And  consisting  of  gambier,  ten  pounds  ;  sulphuric  acid,  one 
pound  ;  golden  seal,  in  powder,  one-half  pound  ;  sweet  fern 
extract,  two  pounds ;  water,  fifteen  gallons,  has  been  made 
the  subject  of  a  patent.  The  objects  of  this  compound  are 
to  provide  a  tanning  solution  that  will  act  speedily  and 
effectively  in  tanning  and  dressing  hides,  and  one  that 
combines  economy  of  ingredients  with  superiority  over  other 
compounds  by  reason  of  its  penetrating  properties  and 
beauty  of  finish. 

In  preparing  the  mixture  used  as  a  tanning  compoundj 
the  gambier  is  dissolved  independently  in  water,  and  then 
put  in  mixture  with  the  other  ingredients  by  ordinary 
mechanical  means,  the  sulphuric  acid  being  the  last  in- 
gredient. 

The  compound  having  the  function  of  dressing  the  hides 
after  passing  through  the  tanning  process  is  composed  of 
the  following  ingredients  :  soft  water,  six  gallons  ;  sulphuric 
acid,  one-half  pound  ;  alum,  one  pound  ;  corn  starch,  one 
pound.  The  first  step  in  the  process  of  treating  the  hides 
or  skins  is  to  immerse  the  same  in  the  tanning  mixture,  and 
letting  them  remain  for  one-half  hour,  then  exposing  them 
to  the  air  for  fifteen  minutes.  Being  again  returned  to  the 
mixture,  they  are  allowed  to  remain  for  about  twelve  hours 
longer,  when  they  are  again  exposed  to  the  air  for  a  short 
period  of  time.  This  work  is  repeated  three  times  in  the 
next  twelve  hours,  then  once  a  day  for  about  eight  days, 
when  the  hides  or  skins  will  be  sufficiently  tanned  to  be 
subjected  to  the  next  part  of  the  process.  This  is  the  dress- 
ing mixture,  and  in  this  the  hides  or  skins  are  allowed  to 
remain  about  one  hour,  then  washed  in  clean  water,  and 
hung  up  until  they  have  become  about  half  dry.  Then 
the  hides  or  skins  are  pulled  and  washed  until  thoroughly 
dry,  when  they  will  be  sufficiently  dressed,  and  will  come 
out  white,  soft  and  pliable.  A  slight  change  in  the  dressing 
process  is  adhered  to  in  the  treatment  of  furs  or  skins  with 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  183 

the  hair  on.  In  such  cases  the  skins  are  immersed  in  the 
dressing  compound,  and  let  remain  twelve  hours  ;  are  then 
taken  out,  washed  in  clear  water,  and  hung  up  until  half 
dry.  They  are  then  worked  soft  and  pliable,  and  the  fur 
or  hair  cleaned,  and  a  fine  finish  is  said  to  be  obtained  in 
this  way. 

This  process  of  tanning  has  jor  its  object  the  treating  of  hides 
and  skins  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  them 
from  becoming  hard, 

And  thus  to  produce  leather  having  the  qualities  of  soft- 
ness, pliability  and  strength  to  an  unusual  degree.  In  ap- 
plying the  process,  the  hides  or  skins  are  taken,  after  having 
been  cleaned  of  all  impurities,  such  as  blood,  salt  and  lime, 
and  spread  out  smooth.  A  coating  of  powdered  crystal 
glauber  salt  is  applied  to  the  hides  or  skins.  For  a  ten- 
pound  skin  as  brought  from  a  slaughter-house  in  its  green 
and  wet  condition,  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  the  salt  will 
be  found  sufficient ;  while  at  least  six  pounds  should  be 
used  for  a  hide  weighing  from  forty  to  sixty  pounds. 
About  one-half  of  the  salt  is  spread  over  the  hide  in  the 
first  instance,  after  which  the  hide  is  permitted  to  lie  for 
about  twelve  hours,  in  order  to  have  the  salt  absorb  all  the 
moisture,  and  when  this  time  has  expired  the  balance  of 
the  glauber  salt  is  applied.  The  skins  or  hides  are  then 
again  exposed  for  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours.  The 
next  step  is  to  smooth  the  hide  out  upon  a  table  and  to 
treat  the  same  to  a  composition  composed  of  one-fourth 
aqua  ammonia  to  three-fourths  of  oil  or  grease,  preferably 
unadulterated  cod-fish  oil.  This  is  coated  upon  both  sides 
of  the  hide  by  means  of  a  brush.  In  the  case  of  oils  and 
grease  of  poor  quality,  the  quantity  of  aqua  ammonia 
should  be  less  than  above,  while  in  the  case  of  richer  oil  and 
grease,  the  quantity  should  be  increased.  The  hide  is  now 
exposed  for  drying  purposes.  After  drying,  the  hide  is 
placed  in  clean  water  to  dissolve  any  sulphate  of  ammonia 


184 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


or  any  of  the  parts  of  the  glauber  salt  that  may  remain. 
The  hide  is  then  ready  for  the  work  of  setting  or  stuffing, 
and  after  drying  out  again  there  is  no  staking  necessary,  as 
the  leather  will  remain  soft.  The  insoluble  fatty  com- 
pound will  remain  in  the  hide  and  adhere  to  the  fibres 
severally,  and  not  in  a  mass,  leaving  the  fibres  independent 
of  each  other,  thus  securing  a  perfect  tanning,  and  putting 
the  hide  or  skin  in  condition  to  reject  water  to  a  great 
extent. 

Instead  of  pulverizing  the  crystals  of  glauber  salt  and 
applying  the  same  in  dry  powdered  condition,  the  skins  or 
hides  may  be  placed  into  a  solution  of  common  salt  and 
sulphuric  acid,  commonly  called  the  ''pickle."  After  the 
skins  or  hides  are  through  this  pickling  process,  the  mixture 
of  aqua  ammonia  and  codfish  oil  is  applied  in  the  manner 
that  has  been  described. 

This  process  has  for  its  object  the  providing  of  a  method  of 
tanning  leather  whereby  the  hides  are  rendered 
soft  and  pliable, 

Their  pores  are  opened  to  permit  of  the  thorough  and  effect- 
ive penetration  of  the  tanning  liquor,  which  pores  are  then 
closed,  the  leather  or  hides  are  prevented  from  cracking,  all 
the  glue  and  gelatine  therein  being  retained,  consequently 
the  leather  is  water-proof,  and  the  liquor  is  prevented  from 
souring,  which  foregoing  objects  are  among  the  chief  ad- 
vantages of  this  process. 

In  applying  this  process,  the  first  step  is  to  place  the  hides 
in  a  vat  containing  lye  and  salt,  in  the  proportion  of  ten 
pounds  of  the  latter  to  one  pint  of  the  former  for  each  hide 
of  light  weight.  After  soaking  of  the  hides  a  specified  time, 
as  well  understood  by  those  familiar  with  the  work,  there  is 
added  from  time  to  time  a  small  quantity  of  lye,  until  the 
hair  of  the  hides  begins  to  loosen.  Should  at  this  stage  of 
the  procedure  a  deodorizer  be  required,  about  one  hundred 
drops  of  carbolic  acid  may  be  added.    The  second  step  is 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  185 

the  liming  of  the  hides,  for  which  purpose,  instead  of  lime 
as  commonly  used,  l^'e  or  ashes  is  employed,  one  quart  of 
either  of  which  with  water  being  added  daily  until  the  hair 
has  become  loosened.  With  a  small  amount  of  lye  left  in 
the  hides,  the  latter  will  not  crack,  as  has  been  experienced 
in  the  use  of  lime,  in  passing  the  hides  through  the  tanning 
process  proper ;  also  in  the  bating  of  the  hides,  the  lye  that 
remains  in  the  same  will  prevent  the  liquor  from  becoming 
sour,  which  bating  of  the  hides  is  the  next  step.  The  same 
is  carried  out  by  adding  to  the  liquor  bran  to  the  extent  of 
a  peck  at  the  beginning.  The  final  or  last  step  consists  of 
subjecting  the  hides  to  the  tanning  process,  the  liquor  of 
which  is  made  of  the  following  ingredients,  in  the  quanti- 
ties named  for  a  single  hide  :  Ten  pounds  of  salt,  one  pound 
of  saccharine  matter  (sugar),  to  which  is  added  one  pound 
of  French  ochre  for  coloring  purposes  and  one  ounce  of 
borax  to  impart  softness  to  the  hide,  and  water  sufficient  to 
cover  the  hide.  The  said  ingredients  with  water,  of  course, 
are  added  in  the  same  proportion  for  each  additional  hide 
placed  in  the  vat. 

The  liquor  thus  produced  may  also  be  used  with  all 
astringents,  and  with  it,  and  with  previous  treatment  of  the 
hides,  the  latter  are  possessed  of  the  following  qualities,  in 
addition  to  those  already  mentioned  :  The  resultant  leather 
can  be  exposed  to  the  action  of  water  for  days,  and  it  will 
be  perfectly  impervious  thereto,  and  the  tanning  is  effected 
in  a  minimum  space  of  time,  while  the  best  color  is  ob- 
tained for  the  leather. 

Patented  by  G.  W.  Hersey,  Empire,  Wis. 

The  following  description  relates  to  a  patented  process  of  man- 
ufacturing  and  finishing  leather,  which  is  adapted 
for  use  for  vamps  and  tops  of  shoes, 

And  may  also  be  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  other 
articles.  The  leather  produced  by  this  process  possesses 
decided  advantages  as  regards  cheapness,  durability,  utility 


186 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  general  appearance,  and  particular  attention  is  directed 
to  the  inner  or  flesh  side  of  the  leather,  which  is  colored  a 
dull  blue-black,  giving  it  a  distinctive  appearance,  which  is 
so  desirable,  and  furthermore  assisting  materially  to  lessen 
the  cost  of  its  manufacture. 

The  process  used  for  the  finishing  of  a  calf  or  kangaroo 
skin  or  hide  into  leather  adapted  for  the  above  uses  is  as 
follows  :  An  unstuff'ed  calf  or  kangaroo  skin  or  hide,  tanned 
by  a  gambler,  quebracho  or  other  vegetable  tanning  pro- 
cess, is  stuffed  to  its  proper  constituency  by  the  use  of  fat- 
liquor,  and  then  dried  in  the  usual  manner.  The  inner 
or  flesh  side  of  the  calf  or  kangaroo  skin  or  hide  is  colored 
a  blue-black  by  any  desirable  composition.  After  the  flesh 
or  inner  side  of  the  skin  or  hide  is  blue-blacked,  the  outer 
or  grain  side  thereof  is  colored  a  jet-black  by  any  desirable 
composition.  After  the  inner  and  outer  face  of  the  skin  or 
hide  has  been  colored  as  desired,  the  same  is  then  slicked 
out  smooth  to  set  out  the  grain  on  its  outer  or  grained  face. 
It  is  then  dried  in  the  usual  manner.  The  skin  or  hide 
is  then  staked  and  trimmed  in  the  ordinary  way. 

The  skin  or  hide  is  then  seasoned  by  the  use  of  blue- 
stone,  iron,  logwood,  ammonia,  blood  and  nigrosine,  the 
proportions  being  as  follows:  Blue-stone,  one-half  pint; 
iron,  one-eighth  ounce ;  logwood,  one-half  pint ;  blood,  one 
pint;  nigrosine,  one-half  pint.  The  skin  or  hide  after  it 
has  been  seasoned,  is  then  dried  at  a  temperature  of  120°  to 
180°  Fah.  After  it  is  dried  it  is  glazed  in  any  desirable 
manner. 

The  skin  or  hide  after  it  has  passed  through  the  glazing 
process  is  again  staked.  After  it  has  been  staked  it  is 
seasoned  again  by  the  use  of  blue-stone,  iron,  logwood, 
ammonia,  blood  and  nigrosine  in  quantities  and  proportions 
the  same  as  in  the  first  instance.  After  the  seasoning  the 
skin  or  hide  is  dried  at  a  temperature  of  120°  to  180°  Fah., 
and  is  then  glazed  in  any  desirable  manner. 

After  the  glazing  process  is  finished,  the  hide  or  skin  is 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  l87 

again  staked,  seasoned  again  by  the  use  of  blue-stone,  one- 
half  pint ;  iron,  one-eighth  ounce  ;  logwood,  one-half  pint ; 
blood,  one  pint ;  nigrosine,  one-half  pint.  The  hide  or  skin 
is  then  dried  again  and  glazed,  and  is  then  ready  for  the 
market. 

The  leather  produced  by  the  foregoing  process  has  an 
unusually  high-polished,  grained  surface,  and  possesses  all 
the  qualities  of  the  ordinary  leathers  now  on  the  market. 
It  has  the  appearance  of  patent  or  enameled  leather  to  a 
great  extent,  as  well  as  glazed  kids  and  other  glazed 
leathers.  At  the  same  time,  when  in  use  the  leather  will 
be  free  from  excessive  cracking  or  breaking,  which  is  usual 
in  patent  and  enameled  leathers.  A  patent  has  been  taken 
out  on  the  above  process  by  Messrs.  C.  E.  and  H.  A.  Lappe, 
of  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

Rapid  process  of  drum  tanning. 

In  the  tanning  of  hides  as  generally  conducted,  the 
necessity  of  allowing  the  hides  to  remain  for  long  periods  of 
time  in  the  tan  pit  has,  when  operations  are  conducted 
upon  a  large  scale,  involved  the  investment  of  a  great 
amount  of  money,  in  that  a  large  plant  has  been  required 
to  afford  the  space  necessary  for  the  number  of  pits  it  has 
been  essential  to  use,  and  in  that  during  the  many  months 
elapsing  between  the  purchase  of  the  hides  and  the  comple- 
tion of  the  tanning  operation,  the  capital  invested  in  the 
hides  is  practically  idle.  In  the  following-described  pro- 
cess, patented  by  Jacques  Durio,  of  Turin,  Italy,  the  time 
of  converting  raw  hides  into  tanned  leather  is  greatly 
shortened. 

The  hides  to  be  tanned  are  first  unhaired  and  fleshed  in 
any  usual  manner.  Immediately  after  the  completion  of 
the  unhairing  and  fleshing  operations,  the  hides  are  placed 
in  a  bath  of  hydrate  of  soda,  or  soda  ash,  consisting  of  water 
four  times  the  weight  of  the  hides,  and  of  the  hydrate  one 
to  four  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  hides,  and  the  hides 


188 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


are  allowed  to  remain  in  this  bath  for  from  three  to  six 
hours.  The  hides  are  given  this  hydrate  of  soda  bath  for 
the  double  purpose  of  removing  as  much  as  possible  of  the 
lime  which  has  adhered  to  them,  and  at  the  same  time  of 
dissolving  out  from  them  as  much  as  possible  of  the  fatty 
matters  naturally  in  or  adhering  to  the  same.  The  hides 
are  then  w^ashed  by  an  energetic  fulling  or  drumming 
operation  with  pure  water,  in  the  same  vessel  if  desired,  the 
result  of  which  is  that  by  the  action  of  the  water  and  by 
the  manipulation  of  the  hides  the  latter  are  caused  to  expel 
from  their  pores  a  large  proportion  of  the  lime  and  the  fatty 
and  other  foreign  matters.  After  the  fulling  or  drumming 
operation,  the  work  of  removing  the  lime,  fatty  matters  and 
hydrate  of  soda,  or  other  foreign  matters  or  impurities,  is 
continued  by  subjecting  said  hides  to  a  very  careful  purg- 
ing or  scudding.  After  allowing  the  hides  to  remain  in  a 
bath  of  water  for  about  twelve  hours,  they  may  be  placed 
in  piles  and  allowed  to  drain  for  ten  hours.  Then,  to  free 
the  hides  from  grease,  they  are  subjected  to  the  action  of 
benzine,  turpentine  or  other  solvent,  preferably  by  placing 
the  hides  in  a  drum  with  the  solvent  and  rotating  the 
drum  to  effect  a  fulling  action  upon  the  hides.  This  opera- 
tion lasts  about  two  hours.  The  solvent,  being  of  extreme 
fluidity,  rapidly  permeates  the  interior  of  the  hides,  and 
displaces,  forces  or  draws  out  by  physical  or  chemical 
action,  a  further  amount  of  grease  or  other  impure  sub- 
stances, which  float,  so  to  speak,  on  the  surface  of  the 
hides  and  form  a  deposit  in  the  nature  of  a  coating  thereon. 
After  the  formation  of  this  deposit  or  coating,  and  while 
the  drum  is  still  rotating,  the  final  step  of  the  preparatory 
stage  of  the  process  is  performed,  which  consists  in  the 
addition  to  the  mass  within  the  drum  of  a  quantity  from 
one-tenth  to  one-fifth  of  the  weight  of  the  hides,  of  pure 
tannic  acid,  the  drumming  or  rotation  of  the  drum  being 
continued  for  a  period  of  time  ranging  from  one-half  hour 
to  one  hour.    The  tannic  acid  introduced  to  the  mass 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  189 

within  {he  drum  effects  an  incipient  or  preparatory  tanning 
of  the  hides. 

By  the  last  operation  the  impurities  are  separated  from 
the  hides,  and  then  removed  from  the  drum,  the  hides 
being  left  free  from  grease,  lime  and  foreign  matters,  with 
their  pores  well  dilated,  and  the  texture  and  fibre  of  the 
hide  well  prepared  for  the  final  tanning  stage  of  the 
process. 

The  hides  are  left  in  the  drum,  and  there  is  introduced 
to  them  a  quantity  of  pure  tannic  extract  proportionate  to 
the  area  of  the  drum  and  the  quantity  of  hides  contained 
therein,  and  the  drum  is  rotated  and  the  hides  subjected  to 
a  fulling  operation,  this  operation  being  continued  until 
the  hides  are  completely  tanned,  the  time  ranging  from 
two  to  eighteen  hours,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the 
hides. 

Instead  of  subjecting  the  hides  to  a  preferred  preparatory 
treatment  with  tannic  extract  and  then  to  a  final  treatment 
with  the  extract,  as  has  been  described,  the  process  may  be 
performed  by  treating  the  hides  with  tannic  extract  intro- 
duced thereto  at  intervals,  from  time  to  time,  or  it  may  be 
performed  by  subjecting  the  hides  to  tannic  extract  applied 
in  one  operation.  The  results  generally  obtained,  how- 
ever, by  the  last-named  mode  of  operation  are  less  satisfac- 
tory than  the  results  obtained  by  the  others.  When  the 
hides  are  removed  from  the  drum,  they  will  be  found,  not- 
withstanding the  brevity  of  their  exposure  to  the  tanning 
extract,  thoroughly  and  uniformly  tanned,  and  the  product, 
even  in  the  case  of  the  heaviest  hides,  will  be  of  fine, 
salable  and  durable  quality  of  leather. 

In  the  ordinary  tanning  operations  it  is  customary  to 
employ  a  tanning  material  known  as  tannic  solution  or 
liquor,  made  by  adding  water  to  commercially  pure  tannic 
extract.  By  this  rapid  process  of  tanning,  the  results  of 
the  process  are  obtained  by  the  use  of  tannic  extract  in 
contra-distinction  to  tannic  solutions.    By  the  term  tannic 


190 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


extract "  is  meant  the  well  known  article  of  commerce,  the 
same  being  an  infusion  or  leach  of  a  suitable  vegetable  sub- 
stance such  as  chestnut  wood,  oak  bark,  etc.,  concentrated 
by  evaporation. 

The  addition  of  water  to  tannic  extract  results  in  the 
chemical  or  physical  disintegration  of  the  extract  and  the 
precipitation  of  certain  constituent  elements  thereof,  so  that 
the  decreased  fluidity  of  the  extract  and  the  diminished 
active  tannin  or  other  astringent  tanning  principle  thereof, 
render  it  a  much  less  effective  tanning  agent  than  the 
tannic  extract  from  which  it  has  been  made.  The  inventor 
of  this  process  claims  that  in  the  process  of  tanning  by  the 
use  of  tannic  solutions  there  is  a  loss,  which  is  due  on  the 
one  hand  to  the  precipitation  by  the  addition  of  water  to 
the  tanning  extract  of  substances  which  by  precipitation 
become  inert  and  inactive  in  the  tanning  operation,  and  on 
the  other  hand  to  a  decreased  weight  in  leather  by  reason 
of  the  diminished  quantity  of  astringent  or  tannic  principle 
remaining  in  the  solution  as  compared  to  that  contained  in 
the  original  extract  from  which  it  was  prepared.  The 
advantages,  therefore,  that  he  claims  are  incident  to  the 
use  of  tannic  extract  as  opposed  to  tannic  solutions,  are  a 
decrease  in  the  time  necessary  for  the  tanning  operation  ; 
an  improvement  in  the  quality  of  the  leather  produced  ;  a 
material  saving  in  the  quantity  of  tanning  extract  or  agent 
necessary  to  be  emploj^ed,  and  an  increased  weight  of 
leather  produced.  Another  advantage  claimed  for  the  use 
of  the  tannic  extract  as  opposed  to  the  use  of  tannic  solu- 
tion is  that  in  the  tanning  operation  with  the  use  of  solu- 
tions it  is  usually  necessary  to  throw  away  and  lose  a  great 
portion  of  the  tannic  solution  remaining  at  the  end  of  the 
tanning  operation,  not  only  because  of  the  fact  that  it  con- 
tains precipitates  and  impurities  incident  to  the  admixture 
of  water  with  extract  to  form  the  solution,  but  also  because 
the  water  in  said  solution,  and  the  impurities  contained  in 
it,  occasion  the  further  deterioration  of  the  solution,  so  as 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  191 

to  render  it  unfit  for  use  in  a  tanning  operation  subsequent 
to  the  first  few  operations  in  which  it  is  employed.  In  the 
use  of  tannic  extract  in  this  process,  the  extract  remaining 
at  the  end  of  a  tanning  operation  is  sufficiently  clean,  pure 
and  strong  to  be  well  suited  for  use  in  subsequent  tanning 
operations,  from  which  it  results  that  the  tannic  extract  at 
the  end  of  the  tanning  operation  need  not  be  thrown  away 
and  become  waste  material,  but  may  be  further  repeatedly 
utilized,  and  thus  offers  a  large  saving  of  expense. 

Another  rapid  process  of  drum  tanning 

is  the  invention  of  S.  and  G.  Durio,  of  Turin,  Italy,  and 
has  for  its  object  the  provision  of  means  whereby  the  time 
required  in  tanning  hides  is  not  only  reduced,  and  a  final 
product  of  superior  quality  obtained,  but  the  operation  of 
tanning  is  simplified  and  the  labor  and  expense  connected 
with  the  same  materially  reduced.  In  this  process  abnor- 
mally strong  solutions  of  tannin  or  tannic  extract  are 
employed,  and  the  leather  prevented  from  becoming  case- 
hardened,  burned  or  otherwise  injured  by  being  kept  in 
more  or  less  violent  motion.  By  this  process  the  largest 
and  heaviest  hides  can  be  tanned  in  about  thirty  hours, 
hides  of  less  size  and  weight  can  be  tanned  in  about  twenty 
hours,  while  such  skins  as  sheep,  lamb,  and  goatskins, 
can  be  tanned  in  about  four  hours.  By  the  term  abnor- 
mally strong  tannin  or  tannic  acid  solutions  is  meant  solu- 
tions of  a  strength  not  less  than  6J  degrees  Beaume,  equal 
to  48f  degrees  barkometer,  although  it  is  preferable  to  use 
a  solution  of  a  strength  of  from  about  8  degrees  Be.,  equal 
to  60  degrees  barkometer,  to  20  degrees  Be.,  equal  to  150 
degrees  barkometer,  the  strength  of  the  solution  being 
kept  uniform  during  the  entire  process  by  the  addition  of 
tannin  or  tannic  acid.  In  carrying  out  this  process,  a  solu- 
tion of  tannin  or  tannic  acid  of  the  strength  above  referred  to 
is  prepared  and  poured  into  any  suitable  vessel  to  which 
motion  may  be  imparted,  as,  for  instance,  a  pin-mill  drum. 


192 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


after  which  the  hides  are  introduced,  and  the  drum  is  set 
in  motion,  and  the  motion  is  continued  until  the  hides  are 
tanned,  except  for  such  brief  periods  as  are  necessary  to  test 
the  strength  of  the  solution  and  reconstitute  the  same  to  its 
original  strength,  or  to  a  strength  slightly  above  its  original 
strength.  If  the  hides  are  large  and  heavy,  the  strength  of 
the  solution  may  vary  from  8  degrees  Beaume,  equal  to  60 
degrees  barkometer,  to  20  degrees  Be.,  equal  to  150  degrees 
barkometer,  the  quantity  of  solution  being  sufficient  to 
nearly  half  fill  the  vessel  before  the  hides  are  put  in.  Dur- 
ing the  milling  of  the  hides  in  the  drum,  the  liquor  is 
tested  from  time  to  time  and  reconstituted  to  its  original 
strength,  or  slightly  above  its  original  strength,  so  that 
when  the  operation  of  tanning  is  completed,  which  for  large 
and  heavy  hides  does  not  exceed  thirty  hours,  the  liquor  in 
the  drum  will  be  of  the  strength  required  for  a  fresh  lot  of 
hides.  For  small  skins,  such  as  sheep,  goat,  and  the  like, 
the  strength  of  the  liquor  may  be  reduced  to  about  6| 
degrees  Beaume,  equal  to  48f  degrees  barkometer  if  desired, 
but  it  is  preferable  to  use  liquor  of  about  8  degrees  Beaume, 
equal  to  60  degrees  barkometer,  though  this  may  be  in- 
creased to  20  degrees  Beaume,  equal  to  150  degrees  barko- 
meter, without  the  least  injury  to  the  stock,  the  time 
required  for  tanning  being  from  two  to  four  hours.  For 
hides  of  medium  weight,  the  time  required  is  about  twenty 
hours  or  less,  according  to  the  weight  of  the  hides,  the 
strength  of  the  liquor  being  as  above  stated,  or  from  8 
degrees  to  20  degrees  Beaume.  In  this  process  of  tanning 
the  hides  do  not  undergo  any  special  preparation,  except 
depilation,  swelling  or  raising,  removal  of  flesh  and  fat,  and 
washing,  ^.  e.,  the  usual  preparations  necessary  to  place 
the  hides  in  proper  condition  to  be  acted  upon  by  the 
tannic  acid.  Neither  grease,  dubbing,  nor  chemicals  of 
any  kind  are  employed  either  before  or  during  the  process 
of  tanning.  For  the  purpose  of  tanning,  any  suitable 
tannic  acid  may  be  used,  preferably  as  pure  a  tannic  acid 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  193 

as  can  be  obtained.  The  hides  are  introduced  into  the 
drum,  and  not  again  handled  until  the  operation  of  tanning 
is  completed,  after  which  the  leather  is  treated  in  the  usual 
manner. 

If  it  is  desired,  the  hides  may  at  the  start  be  subjected  to 
the  action  of  a  weak  liquor,  as,  for  instance,  a  liquor  of 
about  3  degrees  to  4  degrees  Beaume,  the  strength  or 
density  of  the  liquor  being  gradually  increased  to  from  8 
degrees  to  20  degrees  Beaume.  There  is,  however,  no 
special  advantage  in  doing  this,  and  although  the  results 
are  the  same,  yet  the  time  required  for  tanning  a  lot  of 
hides  or  skins  is  increased,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  prefer- 
able to  start  the  operation  with  what  is  considered  an  abnor- 
mally strong  solution,  the  strength  of  which  is  uniformly 
maintained  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the  opera- 
tion, so  as  to  leave  the  liquor  in  a  condition  for  use  with  a 
fresh  lot  of  hides.  After  the  liquor  has  been  used  for  about 
six  times  it  should  be  filtered  to  remove  foreign  matter 
therefrom. 

Any  suitable  apparatus  may  be  employed,  yet  such 
apparatus  should  be  provided  with  special  devices  for 
facilitating  the  strengthening  up  of  the  tanning  liquor  from 
time  to  time,  and  particularly  for  discharging  the  gases 
evolved  during  the  operation  of  tanning.  The  time  of 
tanning  is  shortened  from  days  to  a  few  hours. 

In  the  practical  application  of  the  original  Schultz  two-hath 

process. 

The  skins  are  tanned  in  the  following  manner :  The  first 
bath  consists  of  four  pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  and 
two  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  in  sufficient  water  to  enable 
the  skins  to  process  nicely.  The  quantities  of  bichromate 
of  potash  and  acid  mentioned  are  for  every  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins,  weighed  as  they  come  from  the  preparatory 
processes.  The  bichromate  of  potash  is  first  dissolved  in 
hot  water,  and  then  the  muriatic  acid  is  added.  This  first 
13 


194 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


bath  may  be  applied  to  the  skins  in  a  drum  or  in  a  vat. 
When  a  drum  is  used,  from  ten  to  fifteen  gallons  of  water 
are  required  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  and  the 
skins  drummed  in  the  yellow  chrome  liquor  until  they  are 
thoroughly  impregnated  with  it,  when  the  first  bath  is  com- 
pleted. When  a  paddle  vat  is  used,  enough  water  is  re- 
quired to  cover  the  skins,  so  that  they  are  allowed  to  float 
and  turn  in  the  liquor  by  the  action  of  the  paddles.  Both 
methods  are  used.  The  drum  method  is,  however,  usually 
preferred,  as  the  results  are  accomplished  in  shorter  time 
than  when  vats  are  used.  It  is  highly  important  that  the 
skins  are  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  chrome  liquor, 
in  order  that  they  may  be  completely  tanned  in  the  second 
bath.  The  length  of  time  consumed  by  the  first  bath  de- 
pends upon  the  thickness  of  the  skins.  Very  light  sheep 
and  goat-skins  require  only  a  short  time,  sometimes  less 
than  an  hour,  while  heavier  skins  need  longer  time. 

When  the  skins  are  removed  from  the  liquor,  the  strength 
is  not  usually  exhausted,  and  the  liquor  may  be  used  for 
another  lot  of  skins  by  strengthening  it  up  with  bichromate 
of  potash  and  acid.  When  bichromate  of  potash  is  acted 
upon  by  muriatic  acid,  there  result  chromic  acid  and 
chloride  of  potash.  The  latter  does  not  assist  at  all  the 
tanning,  neither  does  it  do  any  harm.  While  the  skins  are 
saturated  with  chromic  acid,  they  are  in  a  very  sensitive 
condition,  and  require  careful  and  intelligent  handling. 
They  should  not  be  exposed  to  the  air  or  strong  sunlight, 
but  kept  protected  until  they  are  placed  in  the  second 
bath.  The  practical  object  of  soaking  or  drumming  the 
skins  in  the  chromic  acid  liquor  is  to  have  the  chromic 
acid  in  the  skins  when  they  go  into  the  second  bath,  in 
which  the  actual  tanning  takes  place.  After  the  first 
bath  is  completed  and  the  skins  are  removed  from  the 
liquor,  they  should  be  left  in  piles  for  a  few  hours,  in  order 
that  the  surplus  liquor  may  drain  off,  or  they  may  be 
pressed  or  struck  out,  and  are  then  ready  for  the  second  bath. 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  195 

The  original  formula  for  this  part  of  the  process  was  ten 
pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  two  and  one-half 
pounds  of  muriatic  acid  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins.  The  hyposulphite  of  soda  is  dissolved  in  hot  water 
and  then  the  muriatic  acid  is  poured  in  and  the  solution 
is  well  stirred,  and  then  incorporated  in  the  required 
quantity  of  water.  This  part  of  the  process  is  usually 
done  in  paddle  vats.  The  skins  are  left  in  the  liquor  until 
the  yellow  color  has  entirely  disappeared  and  the  skins 
have  assumed  a  pale  bluish  color  through  the  thickest  part 
of  the  heaviest  skin,  which  is  perceived  by  cutting.  By  the 
time  this  has  been  accomplished  the  skins  are  tanned  and 
may  then  be  removed  from  the  liquor  and  washed  thor- 
oughly and  then  finished.  For  the  second  bath  it  is 
good  practice  to  make  up  a  liquor  by  using  only  half  of 
the  quantities  named,  and  after  the  sulphur  smell  has  be- 
come faint  and  the  skins  seem  to  have  absorbed  all  the  sul- 
phurous acid,  to  add  the  other  half  of  the  materials  used 
and  leaving  the  skins  in  until  they  are  entirely  leathered. 
Good  results  are  also  obtained  by  dipping  the  skins  as  they 
come  from  the  press  or  the  striking  machine  after  the  first 
bath  in  a  weak  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  acid. 
By  this  method  the  skins  are  not  subjected  to  the  strong 
solution  at  the  start,  which  sometimes  causes  a  rough  grain 
and  closes  the  pores  of  the  skins,  which  are  especially  un- 
desirable on  grain-finished  leather. 

The  quantities  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  muriatic  acid 
required  by  a  lot  of  skins  depend  somewhat  upon  their 
condition  when  they  go  into  the  second  bath.  Usually  it 
requires  two  and  one-half  times  as  much  hyposulphite  of 
soda  as  of  bichromate  of  potash  used.  The  work  of  the 
second  liquor  can  be  accomplished  in  a  few  hours,  although 
the  best  results  are  obtained  when  the  skins  are  left  in  the 
liquor  over  night.  They  may  go  into  the  liquor,  say  at 
four  o'clock,  and  be  paddled  until  six  o'clock,  and  after  lying 
in  the  liquor  over  night,  may  be  paddled  a  short  time  in 


196 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  morning,  and  will  then  be  thoroughly  tanned.  It  is 
never  productive  of  the  best  results  to  hurry  the  skins. 
The  longer  time  they  are  given  in  both  the  first  and  the 
second  bath,  the  better  will  be  the  final  result. 

The  muriatic  acid  acting  upon  the  hyposulphite  of  soda 
causes  the  formation  of  sulphurous  acid,  sulphur,  and 
chloride  of  sodium.  The  sulphurous  acid  thus  formed  is 
the  active  agent  of  the  bath,  and  by  its  action  upon  the 
chromic  acid  of  the  first  bath  with  which  the  skins  are 
impregnated,  causes  the  formation  of  chromic  oxide  through- 
out the  skins,  and  this  results  in  leather.  Skins  can  also 
be  tanned  by  reversing  the  usual  order,  and  first  soaking 
the  skins  in  the  liquor  of  hyphosulphite  of  soda  and  acid, 
and  then  applying  to  them  the  chrome  liquor.  The  time 
consumed  is  considerably  shortened  when  the  liquors  are 
used  at  a  temperature  of  about  ninety  degrees.  For  chemi- 
cal reasons  it  is  necessary  when  tanning  with  this  process 
to  use  enough  muriatic  acid  in  the  first  bath  to  liberate  all 
the  chromic  oxide.  In  consequence  of  this,  and  because 
the  tanner  does  not  always  understand  the  process  and  fails 
to  properly  adjust  the  proportions,  there  is  an  excess  of 
muriatic  acid  used  which  remains  as  such  in  the  liquor  not 
in  combination  with  the  bichromate  of  potash.  This  re- 
sults in  injury  to  the  leather.  Chromic  acid  is  frequently 
used  by  tanners  in  the  first  bath.  "When  it  is  used,  no 
muriatic  acid  is  required  ;  only  so  much  chromic  acid  is 
used  as  the  tanner  would  use  of  bichromate  of  potash  ;  i.  e., 
if  a  tanner  would  use  four  pounds  of  potash  and  two 
pounds  of  acid  he  would  require  to  accomplish  the  same  re- 
sults four  pounds  of  chromic  acid  and  no  muriatic  acidat  all. 

The  inventor  of  the  process  that  has  just  been  described  is  also 
the  discoverer  of  the  following  process, 

Upon  which  he  has  been  granted  a  patent :  For  each  hun- 
dred pounds  of  skins  as  they  come  from  the  beam-house, 
drained  after  the  final  washing,  four  pounds  of  bichromate 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  197 

of  potash  and  three  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  of  a  strength 
of  20  degrees  Be.  are  mingled  with  the  quantity  of  water 
necessary  to  drum  the  skins  in.  In  this  liquor  the  skins 
are  drummed  until  they  are  thoroughly  impregnated  with 
the  liquor;  then  they  are  removed  from  the  drum,  drained 
or  pressed  or  struck  out,  and  are  then  ready  for  the  second 
bath.  One  hundred  gallons  of  water  are  heated  to  a  tem- 
perature of  about  ninety  degrees.  Into  this  are  poured  five 
pounds  and  five  ounces  of  sulphuric  acid  of  a  strength  of 
66  degrees  Be.  This  is  well  mixed  through  the  water,  and 
then  are  added,  by  being  slowly  sifted  in,  four  pounds  of 
peroxide  of  sodium.  While  this  is  being  done,  the  liquor 
should  be  constantly  stirred.  When  all  the  peroxides  of 
sodium  have  been  added,  the  previously-chromed  skins  are 
entered  into  the  liquor  and  paddled  until  they  are  tanned, 
which  can  be  readily  seen  by  the  tanner.  In  this  process 
no  sulphurous  acid  is  evolved.  The  grain  of  the  skins  is 
left  smooth  and  readily  adapted  to  receive  a  glazed  or 
enameled  finish. 

Skins  to  he  tanned  according  to  the  Zahn  process 

Are  taken  after  the  final  washing  or  drenching  and  treated 
to  a  bath  composed  of,  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of 
skins,  five  pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash,  two  pounds  of 
salt  and  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  muriatic  acid.  This 
may  be  applied  to  the  skins  in  a  drum  or  in  a  paddle-vat. 
When  a  drum  is  used,  the  volume  of  liquor  should  be  about 
ten  gallons,  T^hile  in  a  vat  it  is,  of  course,  much  more,  the 
dissolved  chrome  and  acids  being  mingled  with  at  least 
fifty  gallons  of  water.  The  skins  are  exposed  to  the  action 
of  this  solution  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  enable 
them  to  become  thoroughly  impregnated  with  it,  after 
which  they  should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  liquor  for 
a  number  of  hours  and  then  drained  and  pressed  for  some 
hours.  They  are  then  transferred  to  the  second  bath, 
which  consists,  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  of  eight 


198 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  one  and  one-half 
pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  of  a  strength  of  sixty-six  degrees 
Baume,  dissolved  in  ten  gallons  of  water.  This  solution  is 
mixed  with  sufficient  water  in  a  tub  or  vat,  and  the  skins 
placed  therein  and  stirred  about  for  thirty  minutes.  After 
an  intermission  of  half  an  hour  they  are  again  stirred  about 
for  thirty  minutes,  and  then  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
liquor  with  occasional  stirring  for  ten  or  twelve  hours,  ac- 
cording to  their  thickness.  From  this  bath  they  are  washed 
and  then  placed  in  the  third  bath,  by  which  the  leather  is 
made  strong  and  suppleness  and  softness  imparted  to  it. 
This  third  bath  is  composed  of  a  mixture  of  saponified 
neatsfoot  oil  and  two  ounces  of  caustic  soda,  which  are  dis- 
solved in  one  gallon  of  water  and  heated  by  steam  until 
the  oil  is  thoroughly  saponified.  Then  an  extract  of  five 
pounds  of  quercitron  bark,  or  any  other  solution  containing 
tannic  acid  may  be  used.  This  last  liquor  is  given  to  the 
skins  in  a  pin-mill  drum,  and  the  skins  drummed  in  the 
solution  for  about  thirty  minutes,  then  they  are  removed 
and  dried  in  the  usual  manner. 

If  the  leather  is  to  be  colored  fancy  shades, 

The  dyeing  may  be  done  while  the  stock  is  in  the  drum,  it 
being  finally  washed  off"  and  allowed  to  dry.  For  black, 
the  leather  should  be  removed  from  the  drum  and  dyed 
either  on  tables  or  in  trays  or  boxes.  After  coloring  or 
blacking,  a  light  coat  of  oil  is  applied  to  the  grain  of  the 
leather,  which  is  afterwards  dried  in  a  warm  room,  staked 
or  worked  soft,  glazed  or  ironed  in  the  usual  way.  For 
preparing  the  skins  for  this  process  of  tanning,  and  to  get 
soft,  smooth-grained  leather,  the  skins  are  prepared  in  a 
solution  of  sodium  for  three  or  four  days,  after  which  they 
may  be  limed  for  a  day  or  two,  then  bated  in  the  process 
usually  employed,  washed,  and  are  then  ready  for  tanning. 
The  diff^erence  between  this  process  in  which  three  baths 
are  used,  and  the  regular  two-bath  chrome  process,  is  that 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  199 

in  the  latter  case  the  first  bath  consists  of  four  pounds  of 
bichromate  of  potash  and  two  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  for 
every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  while  in  this  process 
the  first  bath  is  composed  of  five  pounds  of  bichromate  of 
potash,  two  pounds  of  salt,  and  two  and  one-half  pounds  of 
muriatic  acid.  For  the  second  bath  the  Schultz  process 
calls  for  ten  pounds  of  hyposoda  and  two  and  one-half 
pounds  of  muriatic  acid,  while  in  the  Zahn  process  eight 
pounds  of  hyposoda  and  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  sul- 
phuric acid  are  used.  Then  the  skins  are  given  the  last 
bath,  which  in  the  Schultz  process  is  not  used  at  all. 

Tlie  following  description  relates  to  an  improved  process  of 

chrome  tanning, 
By  which  some  economy  and  other  advantages  are  ob- 
tained. The  beam-house  work  for  this  process  is  the  same 
as  for  any  other  process  of  chrome  tanning.  The  tanning 
is  also  practically  the  same,  with  the  exception  that  in  this 
process  a  continuous  evolution  of  nascent  hydrogen  is  pro- 
vided for  in  the  second  or  reducing  bath.  The  nascent 
hydrogen  operates  to  change  the  sulphurous  acid  present  in 
the  second  bath  into  hyposulphurous  acid,  which  is  a  very 
powerful  reducing  agent,  and  also  possessed  of  other  advan- 
tages that  will  be  mentioned  and  described  later  on.  In 
this  process  of  chrome  tanning  the  hides  or  skins  are  first 
subjected,  in  the  usual  manner,  to  bichromate  of  potash  or 
of  soda,  dissolved  in  water  to  which  an  acid,  such  as  hydro- 
chloric acid,  is  added.  The  first  bath  of  the  process  is 
usually  made  up,  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  of 
about  five  pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  or  of  soda,  and 
two  and  one-half  pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid  of  21  degrees 
Be.,  or  an  equivalent  amount  of  sulphuric  acid,  the  quan- 
tity of  water  used  being  sufficient  to  properly  cover  the 
skins.  The  hides  or  skins  are  treated  to  this  liquor  until 
they  are  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  chrome  com- 
pound, and  are  then  removed,  pressed  or  struck  out,  to 


200 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


remove  surplus  liquor,  and  are  ready  for  the  second  or 
reducing  bath. 

The  difference  between  this  process  of  tanning  and  the 
regular  chrome  process,  is  in  the  manner  of  reducing  the 
chromic  acid  in  the  skins  to  chromic  oxide  in  the  second 
bath.  This  second  bath  usually  consists  of  hyposulphite  of 
soda,  muriatic  acid  and  water.  The  action  of  the  acid 
upon  the  hyposulphite  of  soda  is  to  cause  the  generation  of 
sulphurous  acid  and  sulphur.  The  active  agent  in  this 
bath  is  the  sulphurous  acid  which  quickly  penetrates  the 
hides  or  skins,  while  sulphur  is  also  deposited  in  the  fibres 
of  the  grain  and  flesh  sides  of  the  skins.  The  sulphurous 
acid  is  ver}^  corrosive,  and  together  with  the  sulphur  clings 
most  tenaciously  to  the  leather,  so  that  after  the  tanning  is 
completed  the  leather  requires  a  very  thorough  washing  to 
rid  it  of  these  objectionable  materials,  which,  left  in  the 
stock,  cause  serious  damage  to  it.  The  use  of  the  ordinary 
reducing  bath  of  sulphurous  acid  has  therefore  some  very 
unpleasant  features.  It  is  the  object  of  this  improvement 
to  overcome  the  unpleasant  features  by  causing  a  continu- 
ous liberation  of  nascent  hydrogen  in  the  bath,  the  effects 
of  which  are  to  convert  the  sulphurous  acid  into  hyposul- 
phurous  acid.  This  result  is  accomplished  by  the  employ- 
ment of  metallic  zinc  in  the  bath.  This  is  very  simply  and 
economically  achieved  by  placing  a  number  of  pieces  of 
zinc  in  the  paddle  or  reel  containing  the  bath,  these  pieces 
being  sufficiently  large  and  heavy  to  remain  at  the  bottom 
of  the  reel.  The  action  of  the  acid  bath  is  to  liberate 
nascent  hydrogen  from  the  metallic  zinc.  Other  methods 
of  accomplishing  the  objects  of  this  process  may  be  em- 
ployed. 

For  the  treatment  of  one  thousand  pounds  of  skins,  the 
inventor  recommends  a  bath  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  fifty  pounds  of 
muriatic  acid  in  six  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water, 
and  to  this  bath  are  added  sixty  pounds  of  metallic  zinc. 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  201 

The  zinc  should  be  allowed  to  remain  when  the  liquor  is 
drawn  off  after  the  bath  is  exhausted  and  a  new  bath  is 
prepared,  and  about  five  pounds  of  zinc  should  be  added 
once  a  week.  Instead  of  pieces  of  zinc  being  used  in  the 
liquor,  the  vat  or  reel  may  be  lined  with  sheet  zinc  and 
thus  a  large  surface  be  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  acid 
liquor.  In  place  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  acid,  a  solu- 
tion of  bisulphite  of  soda  is  sometimes  used  to  accomplish 
the  work  of  the  second  bath.  When  this  material  is  used, 
no  muriatic  acid  is  required,  as  the  bisulphite  of  soda  is 
charged  with  sulphurous  acid  gas.  The  quantity  of  this 
material  used  may  be  the  same  as  of  hyposulphite  of  soda, 
and  the  metallic  zinc  may  be  used  in  a  bath  prepared  in 
this  way  in  the  same  manner  as  has  been  described.  No 
sulphur  is  evolved  in  such  a  solution,  but  the  nascent 
hydrogen  is  none  the  less  an  advantage,  as  it  lessens  the 
quantity  of  bisulphite  of  soda  that  is  required  by  changing 
the  sulphurous  acid  into  hyposulphurous  acid.  It  is  cus- 
tomary, after  the  skins  are  taken  from  the  first  chrome  bath 
and  pressed  or  struck  out,  to  dip  each  one  singly  into  a 
dilute  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  muriatic  acid, 
this  treatment  being  for  the  purpose  of  accomplishing  a 
slight  surface  reduction,  and  thus  bringing  the  stock  into 
the  best  condition  for  the  reducing  bath.  A  vessel  lined 
with  zinc  may  be  advantageously  used  to  contain  the  liquor 
into  which  the  skins  are  dipped,  or  pieces  of  zinc  may  be 
added  to  the  solution,  as  the  nascent  hydrogen  which  will 
thus  be  developed  will  increase  the  efficacy  of  the  solution. 
Less  hyposulphite  of  soda  will  be  required  and  less  sulphur 
will  be  developed. 

The  advantages  of  this  method  of  tanning  are  that  a 
comparatively  small  amount  of  sulphur  is  liberated,  and 
little  or  no  sulphurous  acid  brought  into  contact  with  the 
skins  or  hides,  so  that  when  the  latter  are  taken  from  the 
reducing  bath,  very  little  washing  is  necessary  to  perfectly 
cleanse  them  and  make  them  quite  neutral  and  in  good 


202 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


condition  for  the  subsequent  finishing  operations,  and  in 
this  way  material  economies  of  time,  labor  and  apparatus 
are  gained.  By  this  method  of  evolving  hyposulphurous 
acid  in  the  bath,  which  is  a  more  powerful  reducing  agent 
than  sulphurous  acid,  less  hyposulphite  of  soda  is  required 
than  in  the  regular  acid  process.  The  quantity  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda  used  may  be  reduced  one-half,  that  is  to 
say,  where  twenty  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  skins  of 
hyposulphite  of  soda  have  been  used,  and  five  per  cent,  of 
muriatic  acid,  ten  per  cent,  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  five 
per  cent,  of  muriatic  acid  will  suffice  in  this  method  of 
tanning.  On  a  large  scale  this  means  a  considerable 
saving. 

Patented  by  W.  M.  Norris,  Princeton,  N.  J. 

Reducing  with  Hydrogen  Dioxide. 

When  skins  are  saturated  with  a  chromate  such  as 
bichromate  of  potash  and  an  acid  such  as  muriatic  acid, 
and  then  submitted  to  the  action  of  a  reducing  agent  suffi- 
ciently strong  and  rapid  in  its  action,  chromic  oxide  is 
separated  out  through  the  body  of  the  skins,  and  leather 
results.  Thi-s  is  the  principle  of  the  two-bath  chrome  pro- 
cess. To  accomplish  the  reduction  of  the  chromic  acid 
with  which  skins  are  impregnated  when  they  come  from 
the  first  bath,  a  number  of  agents  have  been  proposed  and 
used. 

In  the  foregoing  processes,  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  the 
presence  of  muriatic  or  sulphuric  acid  has  been  the  reduc- 
ing agent.  Other  reducing  agents  that  have  been  proposed 
are  hydrogen  sulphide,  either  as  gas  or  evolved  from  a 
metallic  sulphide  in  conjunction  with  an  acid,  such  as 
ferrous  sulphate,  cuprous  sulphate  or  chloride,  oxalic  acid 
of  greater  or  less  activity.  A  two-bath  process  in  which  the 
skins  are  saturated  with  bichromate  of  potash  and  muriatic 
acid,  and  the  chromic  oxide  in  them  reduced  to  chromic 
oxide  by  the  use  of  hydrogen  dioxide,  is  carried  out  in  the 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  203 

following  manner.  The  hides  or  skins  are  prepared  for 
tanning  in  the  usual  way,  that  is,  they  are  limed,  unhaired, 
bated  and  washed,  or  pickled  skins  may  be  tanned  in  the 
pickled  state.  The  first  part  of  this  process,  as  with  all 
two-bath  processes,  consists  of  a  liquor  composed  of  bichro- 
mate of  potash  and  muriatic  acid  in  the  proportions  of  five 
pounds  of  the  former,  and  two  and  one-half  pounds  of 
muriatic  acid  of  21  degrees  Be.  for  each  hundred  pounds  of 
hides  or  skins.  This  is  applied  to  the  hides  or  skins  in  a 
drum  and  the  drumming  continued  until  the  yellow  liquor 
has  penetrated  every  fibre  of  the  thickest  skin.  The  second 
part  of  the  process  consists  of  a  dilute  solution  of  hydrogen 
dioxide.  In  this  bath  the  color  of  the  skins  is  changed  as 
the  reduction  proceeds,  from  yellow  to  greenish-blue,  some- 
thing of  a  slate  color.  For  this  method  of  reducing  the 
chromic  acid  to  chromic  oxide,  the  claims  are  made  *  that 
there  is  nothing  foreign  or  injurious  added  to  the  stock  dur- 
ing tanning  to  seriously  affect  the  finished  product. 

This  is  an  important  advantage  over  all  other  reducing 
agents.  There  is  no  separated  sulphur  that  requires  pro- 
longed washing  out,  as  with  the  use  of  hyposulphite  of  soda 
and  acid  ;  no  sulphuric  acid  is  formed  by  the  oxidation  of 
the  reducing  agent,  and  no  oxides  of  iron  or  copper  formed 
to  affect  the  character  of  the  leather.  In  this  process  the 
reduction  is  very  rapid,  much  more  so  than  when  other 
agents  are  used,  and  the  bichromate  is  changed  in  the  hides 
before  it  can  bleed  or  diffuse  out  as  sometimes  takes  place 
with  reducing  agents  of  slow  power.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
have  the  hydrogen  dioxide  ready  prepared  in  solution,  but 
the  same  results  are  obtained  by  the  use  of  such  peroxides 
as  will  produce  hydrogen  dioxide  with  dilute  acids,  as 
barium  peroxide,  sodium  peroxide,  and  others  of  similar 
properties.  The  bath  of  hydrogen  dioxide  is  kept  slightly 
acid  with  muriatic  or  sulphuric  acid,  and  the  hydrogen 
dioxide  or  metallic  peroxide  for  its  generation  is  added  in 
small  successive  portions,  so  the  mutual  decomposing  action 


204 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


with  the  chromic  acid  in  the  skins  goes  on  steadily,  but 
without  loss  of  oxygen  from  the  decomposition  of  the  ' 
dioxide  in  the  bath.    During  this  part  of  the  process  the  : 
hides  or  skins  should  be  kept  in  motion  so  that  not  only  \ 
will  they  be  uniformly  exposed  to  the  liquor,  but  will  be 
freed  from  the  oxygen  gas  which  escapes  from  the  surface  of 
the  hides  or  skins  in  minute  bubbles.    A  point  of  import- 
ance to  be  noticed  in  connection  with  the  second  bath  is  j 
that  no  metallic  surfaces  be  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  j 
solution.   Vats  made  only  of  wood  should  be  used,  as  other-  | 
wise  considerable  hydrogen  dioxide  will  be  decomposed  and  j 
lost  without  doing  its  work  upon  the  skins.    At  first  the  \ 
yellow  chromed  skins  turn  a  decided  blue  color  in  the  \ 
reduction  bath,  but  this  does  not  affect  the  result,  as  it  soon  ! 
disappears  when  the  green  color  of  the  reduction  shows  ] 
itself.    The  color  gradually  changes  from  yellow  to  green- 
ish-blue, as  is  the  case  in  all  chrome  processes  of  tanning. 

The  reducing  bath  for  this  method  of  tanning  may  be 
prepared  with  sodium  peroxide  instead  of  hydrogen  di- 
oxide, as  has  been  already  suggested.    In  practice  this  is 
accomplished  by  heating  one  hundred  gallons  of  water 
to  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees.    This  Avater  is  acidified 
by  the  addition  of  five  pounds  and  five  ounces  of  sulphuric 
acid  of  a  strength  of  66  degrees  Beaume.    The  acid  should 
be  well  stirred  throughout  the  water,  and  then  are  added 
by  being  slowly  sifted  in  four  pounds  of  sodium  peroxide, 
the  liquor  being  constantly  stirred.    When  all  the  sodium 
peroxide  has  been  added,  the  bichromated  skins,  after  drain- 
ing or  pressing,  are  entered  into  the  liquor  and  stirred 
about  until  the  reduction  of  the  chromic  acid  is  complete  ^ 
and  the  skins  are  tanned,  which  can  be  readily  seen  by  the 
tanner.    The  skins  may  be  paddled  for  an  hour  or  two, 
then  left  still  in  the  liquor  over  night  and  paddled  again  i 
for  a  short  time  the  next  morning.    The  process  may  also  | 
be  completed  in  less  time  than  this,  according  to  the  j 
necessity  of  hurry  and  thickness  of  the  skins.     Before  \ 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  205 

coloring  and  drying  out  the  leather,  it  should  be  very 
thoroughly  washed. 

Patented  by  Samuel  P.  Sadtler,  Philadelphia. 

Among  the  various  processes  used  to  accomplish  the  changing 

of  the  chromic  acid  in  skins  into  chromic  oxide 
Is  one  by  which  the  work  is  accomplished  by  the  use  of 
sulphate  of  iron  in  combination  with  acetic  acid.  In  carry- 
ing out  this  process,  the  skins  are  prepared  for  tanning  in 
the  usual  manner,  and  are  then  immersed  or  treated  in  a 
drum  with  a  solution  of  chromic  acid.  This  may  be  com- 
posed of  bichromate  of  potash  and  muriatic  acid  in  the 
regular  way,  or  of  chromic  acid  in  powder  form  dissolved 
in  water  without  the  muriatic  acid.  Some  acetic  acid  is 
added  to  the  liquor.  This  liquor  is  composed  of  the  usual 
proportions,  and  the  skins  are  saturated  with  it  until  they 
are  thoroughly  impregnated  with  it,  the  length  of  time  de- 
pending upon  the  thickness  of  the  skins.  When  the  chrome 
liquor  has  thoroughly  penetrated  the  skins  they  are  pressed 
or  are  drained  until  they  are  freed  of  the  surplus  liquor. 
Then  they  are  ready  for  the  reducing  bath.  This  is  a 
solution  of  sulphate  of  iron,  in  proportion  of  one  part  iron 
to  nine  parts  of  water,  in  which  the  skins  must  remain  un- 
til the  tannage  is  complete.  After  this  the  skins  are 
washed  and  dried  in  the  usual  manner.  With  either  or 
both  of  the  solutions  is  combined  acetic  acid  in  the  pro- 
portions of  one  part  of  acid  to  sixteen  parts  of  solution. 
In  place  of  acetic  acid,  any  chemical  equivalent  may  be 
employed.  Instead  of  pure  acetic  acid,  either  vinegar  or 
pyroligneous  acid  may  be  used.  The  proportions  of  in- 
gredients used  in  this  method  of  tanning  may  be  changed; 
the  order  of  solutions  may  also  be  reversed,  in  place  of 
chromic  acid  or  bichromate  of  potash  in  the  first  bath, 
other  chrome  salts  may  be  used,  as  for  example,  bichromate 
of  soda,  also  bichromate  of  ammonia.  While  the  sulphate  of 
iron  is  considered  the  best  article  to  use  in  the  second  bath, 
other  iron  salts  may  be  substituted. 


206 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  acetic  acid  used  may  be  in  the  pure  form,  or  as  con- 
tained in  vinegar  or  pyroligneous  acid.  The  use  of  the 
acetic  acid  is  very  essential  in  getting  a  thoroughly  and 
uniformly  tanned  leather.  The  acid  may  be  used  in  con- 
nection with  either  of  the  alternative  baths.  When  it  is 
not  used,  and  the  skins  are  immersed  simply  in  the  chromic 
acid  bath  and  then  in  the  sulphate  of  iron  liquor,  to  which 
no  acetic  acid  has  been  added,  the  iron  salts  do  not  pene- 
trate properly,  and  the  result  is  a  crusty  deposit  on  the 
skins,  and  the  grain  is  brittle  and  hard  and  the  interior  of 
the  skins  is  hard,  owing  to  its  being  improperly  tanned. 
When  acetic  acid  is  used,  the  penetration  of  both  the 
chromic  and  iron  salts  is  uniform  throughout  the  skins,  the 
leather  is  thoroughly  tanned  and  finished  up  soft,  tough 
and  with  a  fine  smooth  grain.  Pickled  skins,  such  as 
pickled  sheep,  lamb  and  goat-skins,  alo  pickled  hides  may 
be  tanned  in  this  process  in  the  pickled  condition,  no 
drenching  being  necessary,  simply  a  drumming  or  soaking 
in  salt  water  to  soften  and  open  them  out. 

Patented  by  S.  Chadwick,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

This  metJiod  of  tawing,  is  a  process  for  the  making  of  chrome 

leather, 

And  consists  of  subjecting  the  hides  or  skins  to  a  liquor 
containing  a  chrome  salt,  and  then  treating  the  same  with 
a  solution  containing  a  cuprous  salt.  One  hundred  pounds 
of  hides  or  skins  are  prepared  for  the  process  in  the  usual 
way.  Then  they  are  immersed  in  a  solution  of  five  pounds 
of  bichromate  of  potash  and  two  pounds  of  salt,  which  are 
dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water,  to  which  two  and  a-half 
pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid  are  added.  The  hides  or  skins 
remain  in  this  solution  until  they  are  thoroughly  penetrated 
with  the  liquor,  which  usually  takes  from  three  to  five 
hours,  but  in  the  case  of  thin  skins  less  than  three  hours 
are  required.  Either  drums  or  paddle  vats  may  be  used, 
the  same  as  for  any  process  of  chrome  tanning.    The  sur- 


PATENTED   PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  207 

plus  liquor  is  then  removed  by  pressure  or  by  striking  out 
on  a  machine.  The  second  bath  of  this  process  differs  from 
all  other  two-bath  processes  by  reason  of  its  being  made  up 
of  sulphate  of  copper,  salt  and  alum.  For  every  two  hun- 
dred pounds  of  hides  or  skins  to  be  treated,  five  and  one- 
half  pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper,  thirty  pounds  of  common 
salt,  and  six  pounds  of  alum,  dissolved  in  twenty-five 
gallons  of  water  are  used.  This  solution  is  run  into  a 
closed  vat  containing  copper  cuttings,  and  is  left  to  stand 
upon  them  until  the  solution  has  become  almost  colorless, 
which  indicates  that  the  cupric  salt  is  reduced  to  cuprous 
salt,  which  is  kept  in  solution  by  the  presence  of  the  com- 
mon salt.  This  solution  is  now  ready  for  use,  and  the 
hides  or  skins  are  immersed  therein.  As  soon  as  they  are 
immersed  in  this  solution  their  previous  yellow  color  is 
rapidly  changed  into  a  greenish-blue  color,  as  the  hides  or 
skins  contain  chrome  as  well  as  copper,  after  which  they 
are  ready  for  further  treatment. 

In  preparing  the  copper  solution,  cupric  chloride  may  be 
used  in  place  of  cupric  sulphate ;  also  in  place  of  common 
salt,  any  other  neutral  substance  which  is  known  to  be  a 
solvent  of  cuprous  chloride  may  be  used.  The  solution 
once  used  may  be  reinforced  from  time  to  time  by  the  addi- 
tion of  such  substances  as  have  disappeared  from  it  partly 
or  wholly  by  being  taken  up  by  the  skins.  The  solution 
may,  after  being  treated  with  metal  copper,  be  again  used 
for  another  quantity  of  hides  or  skins.  The  solution  that 
cannot  be  used  any  more,  can  be  freed  from  copper  by  run- 
ning it  into  tanks  containing  scrap-iron,  on  which  the  cop- 
per is  precipitated. 

In  place  of  treating  the  skins  first  with  a  chrome  solu- 
tion, the  copper  solution  can  be  first  applied  to  the  skins 
prepared  for  the  process,  after  which  they  may  be  treated 
with  the  acidified  bichromate  of  potash  solution. 

Patented  by  H.  Endemann,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


208 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


ONE-BATH  PROCESSES  OF  CHROME  TANNING. 

Owing  to  the  many  unpleasant  features  of  two-bath  tan- 
ning, and  the  difficulties  and  perplexities  and  failures  met 
with  by  inexperienced  tanners  in  using  the  two-bath  liquors, 
without  sufficient  knowledge  or  experience,  the  one-bath 
processes  of  chrome  tanning  have  become  very  popular. 
They  deserve  their  popularity,  by  reason  of  the  simplicity 
and  ease  with  which  leather  can  be  made.  There  are 
several  one-bath  processes  that  have  been  introduced,  all 
possessing  some  merit.  The  tanning  material  is  sold  to  the 
tanner  in  concentrated  form,  all  ready  for  use.  In  a  gen- 
eral way  these  liquors  are  used  in  much  the  same  manner 
as  sumac,  bark  and  gambier  liquors  are  used.  When 
they  are  used  in  paddle  vats  the  skins  are  entered  into  a 
weak  liquor  at  the  start,  and  as  they  absorb  the  tanning 
material  contained  in  the  liquor,  the  strength  of  the  bath  is 
increased  until  it  becomes  a  fairly  strong  solution.  Any  ^ 
tanner  who  has  had  experience  with  two-bath  processes 
finds  the  one-bath  method  exceedingly  simple,  while  any 
tanner  not  familiar  with  chrome  tanning,  but  experienced 
in  bark  or  sumac  tanning,  ought  to-be  able  to  readily  under- 
stand the  new  process  and  to  meet  with  little  difficulty  in 
making  chrome  leather  by  a  one-bath  process.  While  a 
great  deal  of  the  quality  of  the  finished  leather  depends 
upon  how  the  skins  are  tanned,  much  more  depends  upon 
how  the  skins  are  prepared  for  tanning,  and  how  they  are 
treated  after  they  are  tanned,  during  the  processes  of  curry- 
ing and  finishing.  One-bath  liquors  do  not  change  char- 
acter with  age,  and  are  not  injured  by  frost  nor  exposure. 
They  are  clean  and  free  from  smell  and  stain,  and  can  be 
regulated  by  the  tanner  to  tan  slowly  or  quickly  as  he  may 
desire.  When  they  are  used  in  vats,  the  liquors  can  be 
used  over  and  over  for  successive  lots  of  skins,  by  being 
strengthened  up,  and  great  economy  can  thus  be  attained. 
In  two-bath  processes  the  skins  are  subjected  to  the  action 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  209. 


of  corrosive  materials  which  often  produce  damage  to  the 
leather. 

This  is  all  avoided  when  one-bath  liquors  are  used,  as 
they  are  neutral,  or  nearly  so,  and  free  from  uncombined 
acids.  The  results  that  follow  their  use  can  be  easily 
regulated,  and  are  as  a  usual  thing  very  uniform  and 
reliable.  The  mere  tanning  with  these  concentrated  liquors 
is  a  very  simple  and  straightforward  process,  and  little  ex- 
perience is  required  by  the  tanner,  provided  the  skins  or 
hides  have  been  properly  prepared  in  the  beam-house. 
Thorough  liming  and  bating  or  drenching  is  necessary  in 
order  that  the  skins  may  be  soft  and  pliable  to  begin  with. 
As  chrome  leather  is  usually  finished  upon  the  grain,  the 
skins  require  to  be  handled  in  such  a  manner  that  the  grain 
is  left  smooth  and  strong,  and  not  allowed  to  become  rough, 
coarse  or  weak.  In  order  that  the  skins  may  be  thoroughly 
tanned,  and  no  thin  strip  of  raw  material  left  through  the 
center,  which  would  cause  the  leather  to  be  hard  and  tinny 
when  dried  out,  the  tanner  must  use  plenty  of  the  tanning 
material.  No  harm  can  come  to  the  skins  when  they  are 
left  in  the  liquor  for  a  long  time,  as  it  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary that  they  are  thoroughly  taimed,  which  can  not  be  de- 
pended upon  when  they  are  rushed  through  the  process  in 
the  shortest  possible  time.  Some  of  the  one-bath  tannages 
are  more  astringent  than  others,  and  their  effect  upon  the 
skins  is  to  draw  or  contract  the  fibres.  When  this  is 
liable  to  occur,  common  salt  should  be  added  to  the  liquor 
in  the  same  manner  and  for  the  same  reason  that  it  is  used 
in  conjunction  with  bark,  sumac  or  gambler  liquors, — to 
hasten  the  tanning,  to  keep  the  skins  open  and  plump,  and 
to  prevent  the  contraction  of  the  fibres.  One-bath  liquors 
are  used  successfully  in  drums,  paddle  vats  or  vats  with 
rockers.  They  are  applicable  to  hides  and  skins  of  all 
kinds,  and  for  making  every  kind  of  leather  from  kid-glove 
leather  to  sole  leather.  The  two-bath  processes  are  some- 
times preferred  to  the  one-bath  processes  in  the  tanning  of 
14 


210 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


goatskins  for  glazed  kid,  as  they  seem  to  split  up  the  fibres 
and  to  produce  a  finer  grain  than  the  single-bath  liquors. 
Yet  very  good  kid  leather  is  made  with  one-bath  processes, 
with  one  point  in  their  favor,  that  the  leather  so  made  is 
plumper  than  that  produced  by  acid  processes,  which  have 
no  plumping  nor  filling  properties  whatever,  but  leave  the 
skins  thin  and  without  plumpness. 

Tanolin  (The  Martin  Dennis  Process.) 

The  best  known  of  all  one-bath  chrome  processes  is  the 
Dennis  process,  called  Tanolin.  This  material  is  manu- 
factured under  patents  and  sold  to  tanners  outright  in 
barrels,  no  licenses  being  required,  and  no  royalties  asked 
for.  The  use  of  Tanolin  is  very  general  among  tanners. 
It  is  especially  adapted  to  the  making  of  soft,  tough 
leather  used  in  the  manufacture  of  shoes  and  gloves/  Its 
field  of  usefulness  is  not,  however,  restricted  to  these 
branches  of  the  leather  trade,  but  extends  to  heavy  leather 
for  harness,  belts,  and  for  any  purpose  where  tough  supple 
leather  is  required.  It  must  prove  interesting  to  practical 
tanners  to  know  how^  this  popular  tanning  material  is  pre- 
pared. The  manufacture  of  the  liquor  is  covered  by  patents. 
According  to  the  patent  specifications,  a  solution  of  common 
chloride  of  chromium  is  first  prepared.  This  may  be  done  by 
dissolving  the  pigment  known  as  chrome  green,  or  the  com- 
mercial chrome  oxide,  in  commercial  hydrochloric  acid 
which  has  been  diluted  with  an  equal  bulk  of  water,  care 
being  taken  to  use  more  chromic  oxide  than  the  acid  will  take 
up,  in  order  that  the  resulting  liquor  may  be  as  nearly  neutral 
as  possible.  About  eight  ounces  of  the  commercial  acid  are 
sufficient  to  dissolve  a  pound  of  commercial  oxide  of  chro- 
mium. To  this  solution  of  chloride  of  chromium  is  next 
added  slowly  and  carefully  a  solution  of  a  more  powerful 
base,  and  for  this  purpose  carbonate  of  sodium,  or  as  it  is  com- 
monly called,  sal  soda,  is  preferred.  This  is  added  until 
rapid  effervescence  ceases.    It  usually  takes  about  one-half 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  211 

pound  of  sal  soda  crystals  to  each  pound  of  chrome  oxide, 
dissolved  as  above.  The  liquor  which  results  is  a  solution  of 
basic  chloride  of  chromium.  It  may  be  considered  as  con- 
sisting of  the  normal  chloride  of  chromium  and  chromic 
oxide  in  soluble  combination,  and  a  quantity  of  chloride  of 
sodium  or  salt  formed  by  the  union  of  a  part  of  the  acid, 
which  was  in  combination  with  the  chromium,  with  the 
sodium  base  of  the  carbonate  of  sodium.  This  sodium 
chloride  in  the  liquor  serves  the  very  useful  purpose  of  pre- 
venting the  drawing  or  contracting  of  the  fibres  of  the  hides 
or  skins  that  would  result  were  it  not  present  in  the  solu- 
tion. To  the  solution  are  also  added  a  few  pounds  of  com- 
mon salt  to  still  further  counteract  the  astringent  effects  of 
the  chrome  liquor.  In  the  two-bath  processes  of  tanning, 
the  chromic  acid  is  presented  to  the  skins  in  the  liquor  of 
the  first  bath,  which  usually  consists  of  a  solution  of  bi- 
chromate of  potash  and  muriatic  acid.  The  chromic  acid 
in  the  skins  is  reduced  to  chromic  oxide  by  the  action  of 
some  reducing  agent,  such  as  sulphurous  acid  or  sulphur- 
etted hydrogen.  Chromic  acid  is  a  very  powerful  oxidizing 
agent  and  does  more  or  less  injury  to  the  hides  or  skins.  It 
requires  great  care  and  caution  to  produce  with  these 
methods  of  tanning,  leather  that  does  not  crack  or  break 
nor  become  hard  and  brittle  after  it  is  dried  out.  The 
principle  of  the  Dennis  process  is  to  impregnate  the  hides 
or  skins  with  the  liquor  in  which  the  chromic  oxide  is  held 
as  an  already  reduced  salt  and  not  in  combination  with 
acids.  In  practice,  the  prepared  hides  or  skins  are  treated 
to  the  tanning  liquor  in  drums  or  paddle-vats ;  and  it  is 
necessary  that  during  the  process  they  be  frequently  moved 
about  in  order  that  the  action  of  the  chromic  salt  may  be 
uniformly  distributed.  The  length  of  time  consumed  in 
making  leather  by  this  process  varies  according  to  the 
thickness  of  the  hides  or  skins,  and  ranges  from  two  hours 
up,  depending  also  upon  the  method  of  tanning  used,  drum 
tanning  being  accomplished  in  much  less  time  than  when 


212 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


paddle-vats  are  used.  The  tanning  of  the  hides  or  skins  is 
accomplished  in  one  bath  ;  thus  considerable  labor  is  saved. 
The  skins  are  not  exposed  to  the  destructive  action  of 
chromic  acid  as  in  two-bath  tanning,  and  this  results  in 
making  the  leather  stronger  and  not  so  liable  to  become 
papery  or  weak  after  it  is  dried  out.  There  are  no  offensive 
or  suffocating  smells  evolved  ;  and  there  is  no  danger  of 
allowing  the  skins  to  remain  in  the  liquors  longer  than  is 
really  necessary  to  tan  them.  The  neutrality  of  the  tan- 
ning liquor  is  of  great  assistance  in  the  currying  and  fin- 
ishing of  the  leather  after  it  is  tanned.  The  hides  or  skins 
are  prepared  for  this  method  of  tanning  in  the  manner  em- 
ployed upon  skins  intended  for  any  tannage,  of  which 
softness  and  smoothness  of  grain  are  important  qualities. 
When  the  stock  is  tanned  and  is  removed  from  the  tahning 
bath,  there  is  usually  left  in  the  liquor  considerable  tanning 
material.  This  should  not  be  thrown  away,  but  the  skins 
may  be  put  in  and  they  will  readily  absorb  the  tanning 
material  from  the  liquor.  A  new  liquor  can  then  be  made 
and  strengthened  from  time  to  time.  In  this  way  not  a 
drop  of  the  tanning  material  need  be  wasted,  and  the  cost 
of  tanning  kept  at  the  lowest  point.  When  heavy  hides 
are  being  tanned,  it  is  good  practice  to  suspend  them  on 
rockers  in  the  vats  so  that  the  liquor  may  be  gently  agi- 
tated. If  the  hides  are  split  after  tanning,  it  is  better  to 
scour  them  with  brush  and  slicker,  or  else  mill  them  in  a 
drum,  and  then  return  them  to  the  liquor  for  at  least 
twenty-four  hours  longer.  Light  skins,  such  as  goat, 
sheep,  calf  and  kangaroo  skins,  are  preferably  tanned  in 
pin-mill  drums,  as  less  time  is  thus  consumed  than  when 
vats  are  used.  Such  skins  are  tanned  in  drums  in  two  or 
three  hours.  The  plumpness  of  the  leather  may  be  in- 
creased by  first  treating  the  skins  to  a  bath  of  alum  or  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  previous  to  the  tanning  in  the 
chrome  liquor.  The  solidity  and  firmness  of  the  leather 
may  be  increased  by  treating  the  skins  as  they  come  from 


PATENTED   PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  213 

the  tanning  bath  to  a  bath  of  whiting  and  salt,  made  up  in 
the  proportions  of  ten  pounds  of  common  salt  and  five 
pounds  of  bottled  whiting,  mixed  up  in  fifty  gallons  of 
water.  This  liquor  is  put  in  a  drum  along  with  the  skins, 
and  the  skins  drummed  for  about  half  an  hour,  then  the 
whiting  and  salt  are  entirely  removed  by  washing  with 
clear  water.  All  traces  of  the  whiting  must  be  removed. 
Fairly  soft  water  should  always  be  used  in  making  up  the 
tanning  bath.  Hard  water  contains  lime  and  magnesia, 
and  these  cause  the  tanning  material  to  be  precipitated 
from  the  solution  and  render  it  unfit  for  use.  When  a 
quantity  of  the  liquor  is  used  in  vats  for  diff"erent  packs  of 
skins,  it  is  advantageous  to  correct  the  liquor  by  adding  to 
it  slowly  and  carefully  a  solution  of  sal  soda,  one  pound  of 
sal  soda  to  three  gallons  of  water.  This  soda  solution 
should  be  added  until  the  tan  liquor  appears  cloudy,  and 
its  effect  is  to  render  the  tan  liquor  so  sensitive  that  it  will 
yield  to  the  skins  the  whole  of  the  tanning  material.  Tan- 
olin  is  made  and  sold  by  the  Martin  Dennis  Chrome  Tan- 
nage Co.,  Newark,  N.  J. 

The  following  process  of  chrome  tanning  produces  leather  that 
possesses  the  good  qualities  of  both  alum  and  chrome  leather. 

In  appearance,  plumpness,  fine  grain,  softness  and  feel  it 
resembles  the  former,  and  in  softness  and  because  of  its 
insoluble  nature  it  resembles  the  latter  class  of  leather. 
The  process  consists  of  three  consecutive  steps  or  stages. 
The  first  step  in  the  process  consists  of  tawing  the  skins  in 
a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt.  In  the  second 
step  the  sulphate  of  alumina  is  fixed  upon  the  fibres  of  the 
skins  by  means  of  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda,  and 
after  this  has  been  accomplished  another  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina  and  salt  is  given  to  the  skins,  by  means 
of  which  they  are  plumped,  and  the  thinness  that  follows 
the  use  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  is  overcome.  When  these 
things  have  been  done,  the  skins  are  thoroughly  alum 


214  PRACTICAL  TANNING. 

tawed,  and  if  desired,  they  may  be  taken  after  the  last  treat- 
ment with  alumina  and  salt,  and  finished  without  further 
tanning.  To  complete  the  process  and  to  chrome  tan  the 
skins,  they  are  taken  after  the  final  application  of  alumina 
and  salt  and  given  the  chrome  liquor.  In  practice  the 
process  is  carried  out  as  follows  :  The  skins,  after  drenching 
and  washing,  are  drained  and  weighed.  For  every  hun- 
dred pounds  of  skins  a  solution  is  prepared,  consisting  of 
three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina,  and  six  pounds  of  salt 
in  three  gallons  of  water,  boiled  and  allowed  to  cool.  In 
this  solution  the  skins  are  drummed  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  for  each  hundred  pounds  of  skins  in  the  drum  ten 
pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  are  dissolved  in  three 
gallons  of  water  and  this  liquor  is  poured  into  the  drum, 
and  the  skins  drummM  therein  for  fifteen  minutes.  To 
finish  the  first  part  of  the  process  a  third  solution  is  pre- 
pared by  dissolving  in  three  gallons  of  water  two  pounds  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  three  pounds  of  salt.  This  is 
added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum,  and  the  skins  again 
drummed  for  thirty  minutes  or  longer,  or  until  they  have 
acquired  the  requisite  degree  of  plumpness  and  fullness. 
They  are  then  taken  from  the  drum  and  washed  lightly  by 
being  dipped  in  clear  water,  and  are  then  thrown  over 
horses  and  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  some  hours.  The 
old  liquor  being  drawn  off  from  the  drum,  the  skins  washed 
off  in  clear  water  to  remove  from  them  any  excess  of  tawing 
materials,  are  ready  to  receive  the  chrome  liquor.  This  is 
used  without  the  addition  of  water  or  acid  of  any  kind. 
For  the  chrome  tanning  of  the  skins  from  three  to  six 
gallons  of  the  concentrated  chrome  liquor  are  required, 
according  to  the  weight  of  the  skins,  for  each  hundred 
pounds  of  skins.  The  chrome  liquor  is  prepared  as  follows  : 
From  five  to  six  pounds  of  chrome  alum  are  dissolved  in 
five  gallons  of  water,  without  heat.  To  the  solution  of 
chrome  alum  are  added  from  two  and  one-half  to  three 
pounds  of  sodium  sulphate,  and  from  twelve  ounces  to  one 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  215 

pound  of  potassium  or  sodium  acetate  or  its  chemical 
equivalent.  In  a  liquor  thus  prepared  the  skins  are 
drummed  for  from  thirty  minutes  to  one  hour,  or  until  they 
have  taken  up  all,  or  nearly  all,  of  the  liquor,  and  show 
thorough  penetration  of  the  same.  At  this  point  they  will 
be  found  to  be  chrome  tanned  and  insoluble  in  boiling 
water.  The  leather  may  next  be  taken  from  the  drum  and 
washed  and  finished  in  any  manner  desired  in  either  colors 
or  black,  glazed  or  dull.  When  thick,  heavy  skins  are 
being  tanned,  the  quantity  of  chrome  liquor  used  may  be 
increased  to  six  or  seven  gallons  for  each  hundred  pounds 
of  skins.  The  sodium  sulphate  is  the  active  agent  in  the 
solution,  the  sodium  chloride  or  common  salt  being  added 
to  prevent  merely  the  tightening  or  contracting  of  the  fibres. 
The  chloride  may  be  omitted  if  the  quantity  of  sulphate  of 
sodium  is  increased  by  an  amount  equal  to  one-half  the 
weight  of  the  chloride  as  given  in  the  above  formula.  In 
this  process  no  free  acids  whatever  are  used.  The  skins  are 
first  tawed  with  alum  and  later  it  is  treated  with  chromic 
oxide  presented  as  an  already  reduced  salt.  Free  acid  in 
the  solution  added  as  an  element,  that  is,  other  than  as  pro- 
duced by  the  decomposition  of  the  chemicals  employed  in 
the  presence  of  the  skins,  will  retard,  if  not  prevent,  the  re- 
action necessary  to  produce  leather.  For  this  reason  the 
skins  must  be  entirely  free  from  acid  and  perfectly  neutral 
when  the  process  is  begun.  Pickled  skins,  such  as  sheep 
and  lamb  skins,  must  be  freed  from  the  acid  used  as  a 
pickle,  by  being  drenched  in  a  sour  bran  and  salt  drench 
before  they  are  treated.  After  the  tanning  is  completed  the 
skins  should  be  allowed  to  lie  in  the  liquor  for  some  hours, 
or  over  night,  and  then  either  thrown  over  horses  or  laid 
out  flat  in  piles  for  twenty-four  hours  in  order  to  give  the 
tanning  material  taken  up  by  them  time  to  thoroughly  act 
upon  the  fibres.  After  this  the  leather  is  washed  for  twenty 
minutes  in  warm  borax  water  and  then  in  clear  water  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  shaved,  colored  and  finished.  This 
process  is  patented  by  Geo.  W.  Adler,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


216 


PRACTICAL  TANNING.' 


Skins  may  be  tanned  with  a  liquor  composed  of  whiting^  salt, 

chrome  alum,  saltpetre  and  muriatic  acid, 
Either  in  drums  or  paddle  vats.  For  this  process  they  are 
prepared  in  the  usual  manner,  and  when  tanned  are  very 
tough  and  flexible.  In  the  preferred  method  of  carrying 
out  this  process  ten  pounds  of  chrome  alum,  three  pounds 
of  saltpetre,  six  pounds  of  muriatic  acid,  fifteen  pounds  of 
salt  and  ten  pounds  of  whiting  are  mixed  with  fifteen 
gallons  of  water.  The  whiting  and  salt  are  first  mixed 
together  at  a  temperature  of  about  seventy  degrees  Fah., 
after  which  the  other  ingredients  are  added,  and  the  mix- 
ture is  then  commingled  with  fifteen  gallons  of  water.  The 
skins  are  treated  with  this  liquor  in  the  usual  manner. 
While  the  proportions  of  ingredients  given  above  are  the 
preferred  ones,  they  may  be  changed  considerably  without 
changing  the  nature  of  the  liquor  or  of  the  result. 

Another  one-hath  chrome  process 
For  which  waterproof  qualities  are  claimed  is  compounded 
in  the  following  manner  :  Twelve  pounds  of  chromic  acid 
are  dissolved  in  about  six  gallons  of  hydrochloric  acid,  the 
latter  having  a  specific  gravity  of  1.146  and  a  hydrometer 
strength  of  28.61.  Fifty  pounds  of  crystallized  chrome 
alum  are  dissolved  in  about  twenty  gallons  of  water,  with- 
out heat ;  and  seventy-five  pounds  of  crystallized  carbonate 
of  soda  are  dissolved  in  about  ten  gallons  of  water.  Those 
solutions  being  obtained,  the  solution  of  soda  is  added 
slowly  to  the  chrome  alum  solution,  the  latter  being  con- 
stantly agitated  by  stirring.  When  the  compound  assumes 
a  cloudy  appearance,  and  a  fine  sparkling  mist  is  seen  rising 
to  the  top,  the  addition  of  the  soda  solution  should  be  dis- 
continued and  sufficient  water  added  to  bring  the  volume 
up  to  forty-four  gallons.  The  next  step  is  to  thoroughly 
mix  this  compound  of  chrome  alum  and  soda  with  the  dis- 
solved chromic  acid  before  described,  gently  stirring  the 
mixture  while  the  mixing  is  going  on.    Then  the  combined 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  217 

mixture  should  be  allowed  to  stand  and  settle  for  twenty- 
four  hours.  The  water  in  which  the  tanning  is  to  take 
place  should  be  heated  to  a  temperature  of  eighty  degrees 
Fah.,  and  to  every  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  one  and 
one-half  gallons  of  the  concentrated  tanning  liquor  are 
added,  thus  making  a  one  and  one-half  per  cent,  liquor. 
The  strength  of  the  bath  needs  to  be  gradually  increased 
during  the  treatment  of  the  hides  by  the  regular  addition 
of  more  chrome  liquor,  in  one-half  gallon  quantities,  until 
the  bath  has  had  from  four  to  five  gallons  of  the  concen- 
trated liquor  added  for  every  one  hundred  gallons  of  water. 
The  heat  and  strength  of  the  bath  should  be  maintained 
during  the  operation,  and  the  hides  or  skins  constantly 
stirred  about.  An  experienced  tanner  will  have  no  trouble 
in  telling  when  the  stock  is  tanned,  but  a  good  rule  is  to 
watch  the  hides  or  skins  carefully,  and  when  the  thickest  part 
of  the  heaviest  skin  shows  a  deep  greenish-blue  appearance  all 
through,  the  tanning  is  completed.  When  it  has  been  seen 
that  the  hides  or  skins  are  sufficiently  tanned,  they  are  re- 
moved from  the  bath  and  washed  in  water  to  which  borax 
has  been  added,  in  proportion  of  one  ounce  to  twenty 
gallons  of  water.  The  time  required  to  tan  with  this  pro- 
cess varies  considerably.  Sheep-skins  usually  require  about 
one  hour,  and  goat-skins  about  one  and  one-half  hours. 
Calf-skins  are  tanned  in  from  two  to  four  hours,  and  hides 
in  about  ten  hours.  Skins  tanned  by  this  process  are 
adapted  for  a  great  variety  of  purposes,  and  especially 
where  waterproof  stock  is  desired,  as  the  skins  are  not  de- 
teriorated in  any  way  by  the  treatment,  but  are  left  strong 
and  pliable  and  susceptible  of  taking  a  high  polish.  The 
skins  may  also  be  tanned  in  drums.  It  usually  requires 
about  three  gallons  of  liquor,  prepared  as  described,  to  tan 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  weighed  after  drenching. 
After  tanning,  the  skins  are  treated  during  the  finishing 
process  in  the  same  manner  as  any  chrome-tanned  skins. 
This  process  is  patented  by  Joseph  W.  Smith,  Girard,  Ohio. 


218 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


A  simple  one-bath  liquor 
May  be  prepared  by  the  following  recipe :  Three  pounds  of 
bichromate  of  potash  are  dissolved  in  hot  water,  and  half  a 
gallon  of  strong  hydrochloric  acid  is  added,  and  then 
glucose  little  by  little,  heating  if  necessary,  until  the  yellow 
liquor  changes  to  a  deep  blue-green.  About  one  and  one- 
half  pounds  of  glucose  are  generally  required.  The  solution 
is  made  up  with  water  to  two  gallons.  The  goods  are 
started  in  a  two  per  cent,  solution  of  the  above  liquor  and 
gradually  strengthened  up  to  a  six  or  eight  per  cent,  solu- 
tion. This  liquor  may  also  be  used  in  drums  and  pene- 
trates light  skins  in  a  short  time,  after  which  they  should 
lie  for  twenty  hours  in  a  pile  and  then  be  washecf  in  warm 
borax  water,  followed  by  clear  water. 

Another  interesting  one-bath  tanning  liquor  is  known  as 
Chromine. 

This  liquor  is  also  made  under  patents,  and  sold  outright  to 
tanners,  in  concentrated  form  ready  for  use.  The  principle 
involved  in  this  process  is  the  tanning  of  the  skins  with  a 
liquid  compound  containing  normal  chloride  of  chromium 
and  sulphate  of  sodium  with  an  organic  acid,  such  as  formic 
acid  or  acetic  acid.  These  are  the  principal  active  agents  in 
the  liquor,  and  are  held  in  such  relation  to  each  other  in  the 
solution  that  the  chromium  and  sodium  salts  are  each  sever- 
ally capable  of  exerting  its  full  tawing  effects  upon  the  skins. 
In  carrying  out  the  principle  of  the  process  a  concentrated 
solution  of  the  tawing  liquor  is  prepared.  This  is  done  by 
first  forming  a  compound  of  sulphate  of  potassium  or  of 
sodium  with  chromic  acid  by  dissolving  a  given  quantity  of 
bichromate  of  potash  or  of  soda  in  one  and  a  half  times  its 
quantity  by  weight  of  sulphuric  acid,  mixed  wdth  double  its 
volume  of  water.  The  chromic  acid  compound  therein  is 
then  to  be  reduced  to  a  sesqui-oxide  by  an  organic  reducing 
agent,  and  for  this  purpose  sugar  or  alcohol  may  be  used. 
To  the  resulting  solution  is  then  to  be  added  a  solution  of 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  219 

carbonate  of  soda,  whereby  it  is  neutralized  and  sodium  com- 
bined with  it,  the  result  being  sodium  sulphate  and  formate 
or  acetate,  chromic  hydrate  and  chromium  oxy carbonate,  the 
last  two  forming  a  precipitate,  and  this  precipitate  is  then 
to  be  dissolved  in  the  presence  of  hydrochloric  acid. 

The  following  are  the  proportions  and  method  used  in 
producing  the  results  desired.  Taking  a  given  quantity  of 
bichromate  of  potash  or  of  soda,  say  five  pounds,  it  is  dis- 
solved in  fully  one  and  a  half  times  that  quantity  by 
weight,  (seven  and  one-half  to  eight  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid,)  diluted  with  double  the  quantity  by  volume  of  water 
that  there  is  of  acid  used  ;  and  this  chromic  acid  compound 
so  admixed  with  sodium  or  potassium  sulphate  is  then  to 
be  completely  reduced  to  a  chromic  oxide.  The  formation 
of  this  can  be  readily  perceived  by  the  liquid  assuming  a 
dark  green  color.  The  quantities  named  require  about  one 
pound  of  white  sugar  or  one  and  one-half  pints  of  alcohol, 
added  slowly  to  keep  the  temperature  below  the  point  of 
ebullition  and  until  effervescence  ceases.  The  solution  is 
then  to  be  rendered  neutral  and  sodium  sulphate  formed 
therein  by  adding  to  the  quantity  named  about  twenty 
pounds  of  carbonate  of  soda  dissolved  in  about  seven  and 
one-half  gallons  of  water.  This  sodium  carbonate  solution 
must  be  added  slowly  until  the  liquor  ceases  to  effervesce. 
The  mixture  is  then  allowed  to  stand  several  hours  until 
precipitation  of  the  chromium  oxycarbonate  contained 
therein  is  complete.  The  last  step  in  the  preparation  of  the 
solution  consists  of  adding  hydrochloric  acid,  in  quantity 
enough  only  to  split  up  or  decompose  and  completely  dis- 
solve all  the  precipitated  chromium  compound.  For  this 
purpose  about  six  to  seven  pounds  by  weight  of  such  acid 
will  be  sufficient  for  the  quantities  named,  and  twelve  to 
twenty-four  hours  required  for  the  purpose.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  no  more  hydrochloric  acid  is  used  than  is  re- 
quired to  accomplish  the  desired  object.  When  prepared 
as  described,  and  the  quantities  are  equally  proportioned 


220 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  liquor  obtained  will  be  of  about  twenty  to  twenty-three 
degrees  Beaum^,  in  density,  and  about  sixty  degrees  Fah. 
of  temperature,  and  from  ten  to  twelve  gallons  of  liquor  in 
quantity. 

The  skins  to  be  tanned  are  submitted  to  a  bath  of  this 
liquor  diluted  to  an  extent  varying  according  to  the  char- 
acter of  the  skins,  the  length  of  time  also  varying  for  the 
same  reason.  Ordinarily  the  concentrated  liquor  should  be 
diluted  to  an  extent  of  three  or  four  times  its  volume  of 
water  in  order  to  reduce  it  to  a  hydrometric  strength  of  five 
or  six  degrees.  The  skins  take  up  the  tanning  material 
contained  in  the  liquor  in  a  very  short  ^time,  the  refuse 
liquor  showing  that  all  the  salts  have  been  absorbed.  The 
tanner  can  readily  determine  when  the  process  ts  com- 
pleted by  cutting  into  the  thickest  skin  and  noting  the 
penetration  of  the  liquor.  The  skins  treated  with  this 
liquor  become  insoluble  and  perfectly  tawed  with  a  very 
fine  and  smooth  grain  surface.  Pickled  skins  may  be 
milled  in  salt  water  as  usual,  to  remove  the  pickle  from 
them,  or  they  may  be  subjected  in  the  pickled  condition  to 
this  process.  It  is  really  immaterial  whether  the  skins  are 
milled  in  salt  water  or  used  in  the  pickled  condition.  The 
active  salts  in  this  liquor  are  the  salts  of  chromium  and 
sodium.  These  are  in  such  relation  to  each  other  and  to 
the  organic  acid  combined  with  them  that  the}^  are  each 
severally  capable  of  exerting  their  full  effect  as  tawing 
agents,  and  each  seems  to  modify  the  undesirable  action  of 
the  other;  i.  e.,  the  sodium  sulphate  qualifies  the  usual 
astringent  effect  of  the  chromium  salts,  and  the  chloride  of 
chromium  qualifies  or  reduces  the  usual  opening  or  swell- 
ing effect  of  the  sodium  salt,  while  at  the  same  time  the 
normal  chromium  salt  in  the  compound  will,  on  contact 
with  the  skin  substance,  give  up  the  hydrochloric  acid  with 
which  it  is  combined  and  be  precipitated  as  an  oxide,  the 
reaction  taking  place  in  the  fibre  of  the  skin,  which  results 
in  the  skins  becoming  tawed  and  insoluble  and  finishing 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OP  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  221 

into  very  soft  and  fine  leather.  A  practical  method  of 
tanning  light  skins,  such  as  goat,  sheep  and  calf,  with  this 
one-bath  process  is  carried  out  in  the  following  manner  : 
The  skins  as  they  come  from  the  beam-house,  washed  and 
ready  for  tanning,  are  weighed,  and  for  each  hundred 
pounds  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  common  salt 
is  prepared,  consisting  of  three  pounds  of  the  former  and 
six  pounds  of  the  latter,  dissolved  in  six  gallons  of  water. 
In  this  liquor  the  skins  are  drummed  for  thirty  minutes, 
or  until  they  are  full  and  plump.  The  skins  can  also  be 
tanned  direct  from  the  washing,  without  the  preliminary 
treatment  with  alumina  and  salt,  if  so  desired.  After  the 
drumming  in  the  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt, 
the  concentrated  tawing  liquor  is  given  to  the  skins,  in 
quantity  about  six  gallons  for  each  hundred  pounds  of 
skins  in  the  drum.  The  drumming  in  the  liquor  should 
be  continued  for  two  to  three  hours  until  the  skins  are  com- 
pletely tanned,  then  they  may  be  removed  from  the  drum, 
washed  in  the  usual  way  and  finished.  The  process  may 
also  be  carried  out  in  vats,  the  quantity  of  liquor  used  be- 
ing about  the  same,  and  the  skins  paddled  until  they  are 
tanned.  This  process  is  not  all  astringent,  the  grain  of  the 
skins  remaining  smooth  and  without  any  contraction  what- 
ever. Chromine  is  manufactured  under  patents  by  The 
Eureka  Tannage  Co.,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

A  liquor  useful  in  one-bath  chronic  tanning  that  has  been  used 
to  some  extent  is  called  Progress  Tan  Liquor. 

This  is  used  in  tanning  skins  in  the  following  manner. 
After  slating,  wash  the  skins  in  a  weak  solution  of  muriatic 
acid,  using  about  two  pounds  of  acid  in  three  hundred  and 
fifty  gallons  of  water  for  twelve  hundred  pounds  of  skins, 
weighed  after  slating.  Process  the  skins  in  this  acid  liquor 
in  a  paddle-wheel  for  about  thirty  minutes.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  liquor  should  be  lukewarm.  From  this  washing, 
the  skins  are  placed  in  a  drum,  and  to  every  hundred 


222 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


pounds  of  skins  add  from  two  and  one-half  to  three  and 
one-half  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina,  and  from  six  to 
twelve  pounds  of  salt.  For  soft  skins  use  the  smaller 
quantity,  for  hard  skins  the  larger  quantity  of  alumina 
and  salt.  The  quantities  of  alum  and  salt  ma}^  be  varied 
between  the  lowest  and  the  highest  proportion,  according 
to  the  nature  of  the  skins.  The  sulphate  of  alumina 
and  salt  may  be  dissolved  before  using  or  they  may  be 
put  into  the  drum  in  dry  state.  The  skins  should  be 
drummed  in  this  for  from  thirty  minutes  to  one  hour, 
and  they  should  be  free  from  stringiness  when  they  are 
pulled  out  in  the  flank  after  drumming  in  the  alumina  and 
salt.  When  in  this  condition  pour  five  gallons  of  the  tan 
liquor  to  every  hundred  pounds  of  skins  into  the  drum 
through  the  gudgeon  while  the  drum  is  running.  Then 
drum  the  skins  in  this  liquor  for  three  hours,  or  until  they 
are  tanned. 

When  the  skins  have  been  drummed  enough,  the  liquor 
runs  from  them  colorless.  Now  take  them  from  the  drum, 
stretch  them  on  horses  and  allow  them  to  remain  there  and 
press  until  the  next  morning.  Then  strike  them  out  and 
shave  them.  For  very  heavy  skins,  they  should  be  taken 
after  shaving,  put  back  into  the  drum  with  the  spent  liquor 
from  the  first  tanning.  Allow  one  gallon  of  tan  liquor  for 
every  hundred  pounds  of  skins  as  they  w^eighed  originally, 
and  drum  them  in  this  liquor  for  one  and  one-half  hours. 
This  completes  tanning.  A  thorough  washing  is  required, 
and  this  may  continue  for  one  hour,  using  running  water ; 
then  strike  out  the  leather  and  proceed  to  stain,  color  and 
finish.  The  leather  made  in  this  w^ay  is  tough  and  has  a 
fine  smooth  grain,  there  being  no  contraction.  Another 
method  of  using  this  liquor  that  produces  salable  leather, 
is  to  tan  the  skins  direct  from  the  drenches  without  the  use 
of  alum  and  salt,  nor  of  muriatic  acid.  For  one  hundred 
pounds  of  pelt,  weight  to  be  determined  after  drenching 
and  washing,  from  six  to  eight  gallons  of  the  tan  liquor  are 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  223 

used.  The  exact  quantity  best  adapted  for  the  stock  must 
be  determined  b}^  the  tanner.  The  tan  liquor  may  be 
mixed  with  twenty-four  gallons  of  water.  Of  this,  put  six- 
teen gallons  in  the  drum  and  run  the  skins  for  one-half 
hour,  then  put  in  a  few  more  gallons  and  run  the  drum 
another  half  hour,  then  put  in  the  remaining  liquor  and 
drum  the  skins  long  enough  to  thoroughly  tan  them,  which 
ranges  from  two  to  five  hours,  according  to  the  thickness 
of  the  skins.  The  whole  of  the  prepared  liquor  may  be 
put  into  the  drum  at  once,  and  also  less  water  may  be  used. 
After  tanning,  the  leather  should  be  w^ashed  until  all  traces 
of  tan  liquor  have  disappeared.  Progress  Tan  liquor  is 
one  of  the  specialties  of  the  Wolffe  Chemical  Co.,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa. 

Vacrome 

Is  the  name  given  to  a  single-bath  mineral  tanning  agent, 
by  the  use  of  which  chrome  leather  is  made  in  one-third  of 
the  time  and  with  one-half  the  labor  required  in  any  two- 
bath  process.  This  liquor  is  not  astringent,  and  therefore 
it  does  not  contract  nor  damage  the  grain  and  fibre  of  the 
skins.  When  any  one-bath  process  is  used,  if  after  the 
stock  is  shaved  it  proves  to  be  not  uniformly  tanned,  it  can 
be  returned  to  the  liquor  and  re-tanned  in  the  same  manner 
as  with  the  use  of  vegetable  tanning  agents.  Vacrome  is 
made  by  the  Vacuum  Oil  Co.,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

In  practice,  this  tanning  material  is  used  as  follows : 
After  the  stock  comes  from  the  drench  or  wash-wheels,  it 
should  be  placed  in  a  drum  with  water  at  a  temperature  of 
sixty-five  degrees,  adding  four  pounds  of  salt  for  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  stock,  weighed  as  it  comes  from  the 
beam-house.  In  this  the  stock  is  run  for  not  more  than 
five  minutes.  Then  is  added  one  gallon  of  the  Vacrome  for 
each  hundred  pounds  of  skins  in  the  drum,  and  the  drum 
run  for  thirty  minutes.  Then  another  gallon  of  tanning 
liquor  is  added  and  the  stock  drummed  for  thirty  minutes 


224 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


then  another  gallon  is  added  and  the  drumming  continued 
for  from  one  to  two  hours  longer  or  until  the  stock  is  thor- 
oughly tanned. 

The  stock  should  be  left  in  the  tanning  solution  after 
being  tanned  through  for  twenty-four  hours,  or  it  may  be 
placed  in  a  pile  for  the  same  length  of  time,  thus  permitting 
the  salts  held  in  solution  to  act  upon  the  pelt,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  stock  should  be  washed  for  thirty  minutes  in 
w^arm  water  at  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  degrees,  and 
for  thirty  minutes  in  cold  watei^,  and  it  is  then  ready  for 
the  color  bath.  While  there  is  no  pickling  before  tanning 
nor  washing  in  soda  solutions  after,  yet  washing  for  one 
hour  preparatory  to  coloring  will  not  remove  any  of  the 
tanning  matter.  All  tanning  matter  taken  up  by  the  stock 
is  retained.  Pickled  sheep  and  lamb-skins  are  prepared 
for  tanning  by  first  wringing  or  pressing  them  to  rid  them 
of  animal  grease,  then  they  are  washed  in  warm  salt  water 
to  soften  them  and  to  free  them  from  surface  grease.  The 
pickle  is  next  removed.  For  ten  dozen  medium-size  sheep- 
skins use  twenty-four  quarts  of  salt  and  four  pounds  of 
whiting  in  water  at  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees.  Run 
twenty  minutes  in  a  pin-wheel  and  then  let  skins  remain 
in  the  bath  without  milling  for  one-half  hour,  after  which 
take  skins  from  the  bath  and  throw  them  into  a  light  sour- 
bran  drench  for  half  an  hour,  adding  sufficient  water  to  keep 
skins  from  swelling,  after  which  wash  them  in  clean  salt 
water  to  remove  all  traces  of  the  whiting.  Precaution 
must  be  taken  to  remove  all  the  whiting  from  the  skins, 
otherwise  they  will  be  harsh  and  brittle  after  drying  out, 
also  plenty  of  salt  must  be  used  in  washing  to  keep  the 
skins  from  swelling.  It  is  also  necessary  that  all  acid  used 
in  pickling  should  be  removed  from  the  skins  before  they 
are  placed  in  the  tanning  liquor.  Sheep-skins  are  tanned 
through  in  two  and  one-half  hours,  if  all  the  grease  and 
acid  have  been  previously  extracted,  gor  three  hundred 
pounds  of  skins,  fifty  gallons  of  water  should  be  used  for 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  TANNING  AND  TAWING.  225 

the  bath,  and  two  and  one-half  gallons  tanning  fluid  for 
each  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  When  the  tanning  is 
done  in  paddle-vats,  the  liquor  is  fed  more  slowly,  although 
the  quantity  is  about  the  same.  Twenty-four  hours  is  the 
maximum  time  required  with  this  process  in  paddle-wheel 
tanning. 

By  the  use  of  chrome-alum,  liquors  can  he  made  that  have 
given  good  results  when  used  upon  light  skins. 

One  formula  calls  for  sixteen  pounds  of  chrome-alum, 
one  and  one-half  pounds  of  ordinary  alum,  and  one-half 
pound  of  iron-alum  dissolved  in  eighteen  gallons  of  cold 
water.    This  requires  considerable  time,  as  the  water  must 
be  cold.    No  heat  can  be  employed.    Five  pounds  of  com- 
mon washing-soda  are  separately  dissolved  in  two  gallons 
of  water.    After  the  alums  have  gone  into  solution,  the 
soda-liquor  is  gradually  added  to  the  alum  liquor,  the  latter 
being  contantly  stirred.     Prepared  in  this  way,  about 
twenty-two  gallons  of  stock  liquor  will  result.    This  will 
tan  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of 
skins.    The  tannage  is  best  accomplished  in  a  drum.  The 
prepared  skins  are  entered,  and  to  every  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins  five  gallons  of  water  are  added  and  ten 
pounds  of  salt.    About  two  pounds  of  alum  may  also  be 
used.    In  this  solution  the  skins  are  drummed  for  thirty 
minutes,  after  which  the  tanning  liquor  as  above  prepared 
is  added.    Two  or  three  gallons  may  be  added  at  a  time  at 
intervals  of  fifteen  minutes,  and  the  drumming  continued 
for  several  hours  until  the  skins  are  tanned.    Then  they 
are  washed  in  the  usual  way,  first  with  borax  and  water, 
and  then  with  clear  water  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
and  are  then  struck  out  or  pressed  and  are  ready  for  fat- 
liquoring. 

Skins  may  also  be  tanned  ivith  a  liquor  prepared  as  follows  : 

Ten  pounds  of  chrome-alum  are  dissolved  in  ten  gallons 
15 


226 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


of  cold  water.  This  requires  some  time,  and  the  alum 
needs  to  be  stirred  about  occasionally,  or  it  may  be  hung  in 
a  basket  in  the  water  and  dissolved  in  this  way.  Two  and 
one-half  pounds  of  ordinary  washing-soda  are  separately 
dissolved  in  one  gallon  of  water.  The  soda  solution  is  then 
slowly  stirred  into  the  chrome-alum  liquor.  The  tannage 
may  be  carried  out  in  vats  by  adding  three  gallons  of  the 
liquor  to  eighty  gallons  of  water,  with  seven  pounds  of  salt. 
At  intervals  of  one  hour  three  gallons  of  the  liquor  are 
added,  and  the  skins  paddled  until  the  strength  is  ex- 
hausted and  the  skins  are  tanned.  In  a  drum,  from  two  to 
three  hours  are  required,  and  the  ten  gallons  of  liquor  will 
tan  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins. 


CHAPTER  XI. 
DEER-SKIN8. 

A  VERY  good  method  of  removing  the  hair  from  deer- 
skins is  to  paint  the  skins  on  the  flesh  side  with  either  a 
mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  or  a  clear  solution 
of  the  latter  article.  The  skins  require  a  thorough  soaking 
and  softening  in  water  before  they  are  painted,  in  order  to 
rid  them  of  salt,  dirt  and  blood.  The  strength  of  the  sul- 
phide of  sodium  liquor  is  not  arbitrary,  but  may  vary  from 
twelve  to  twenty-four  degrees,  tested  by  the  hydrometer.  A 
good  liquor  is  one  of  about  eighteen  degrees.  Before  the 
lime  is  used  it  should  be  reduced  to  milk  of  lime  by  the 
use  of  hot  water,  and  it  should  be,  as  well  as  the  sulphide 
of  sodium  liquor,  perfectly  cold  before  being  applied  to  the 
skins.  When  preparing  a  new  depilating  liquor,  about 
one-half  of  a  barrel  of  lime  may  be  used  in  fifty  gallons  of 
hot  water.  After  the  lime  becomes  thoroughly  dissolved 
and  reduced  to  milk  of  lime,  several  pailfuls  may  be  mixed 
with  a  barrel  of  the  sulphide  of  sodium  liquor.  The  deer- 
skins are  spread  out  upon  a  smooth  surface,  and  the  mixture 
of  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  applied  to  the  flesh  side. 
It  should  be  put  on  with  a  vegetable  flbre  brush  or  a  swab 
of  burlap  and  spread  on  evenly  without  running  oflP. 

The  skins  are  then  folded  up  and  placed  in  piles  for 
some  hours,  or  until  the  next  day,  when  the  hair  will  come 
readily  off,  and  the  skins  can  then  be  limed  for  a  number 
of  days  in  order  to  get  the  desired  softness  at  the  start.  The 
painting  of  the  skins  and  the  removal  of  the  hair  should 
be  done  in  a  cool  moist  room,  so  that  the  skins  will  neither 
dry  nor  heat.    After  the  hair  has  been  removed  from  the 

(227) 


228 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


skins,  they  should  at  once  be  put  into  clean  cold  water  and 
left  therein  until  they  are  to  go  into  the  liming  process. 
In  this  way  they  will  be  safe  from  heating,  drying  out  or 
spoiling.  The  object  of  liming  the  skins  is  to  increase 
their  softness  and  elasticity,  qualities  that  are  so  much  de- 
sired in  glove  leather.  In  making  a  new  lime,  two  buckets 
of  lime  are  slaked  in  about  ten  gallons  of  hot  water.  This 
quantity  of  lime  will  answ^er  for  from  three  hundred  to  four 
hundred  skins.  The  skins  should  remain  in  the  first  lime 
for  one  day,  then  hauled  out  and  the  same  quantity  of 
lime  added  as  was  used  in  the  first  instance.  This  may  be 
repeated  for  six  or  eight  days  and  results  in  making  the 
skins  exceedingly  soft  and  stretchy. 

The  grain  of  the  skins  may  be  removed  after  the  liming, 
either  by  shaving  it  off  or  by  frizzing  it  off  on  a  machine. 
After  this  is  done,  or  if  the  grain  is  left  on  the  skins,  they 
are  thoroughly  drenched  to  rid  them  of  the  lime  and  to 
make  them  soft  and  clean.  Any  of  the  usual  methods  of 
drenching  skins  may  be  used.  As  the  skins  have  been 
heavily  limed,  it  is  necessary  to  drench  them  thoroughly. 
The  skins  may  be  tanned  in  various  ways.  Oil  tannages 
and  the  chrome  processes  make  very  good  leather,  also  alum 
and  napa  tannages. 

The  following  process,  although  originally  applied  only  to 
sheep-skins,  produces  good  results  upon  deer-skins, 

As  the  leather  it  makes  combines  the  qualities  of  softness 
and  toughness,  which  allow  the  leather  to  be  sewed  into 
gloves  without  allowing  the  stitches  to  tear  out.  As  the 
skins  come  from  the  beam-house,  ready  for  tanning,  they 
are  treated  with  a  solution  composed,  for  two  hundred  skins, 
of  the  following  ingredients :  Twenty  pounds  of  salt, 
thirty  pounds  of  white  rock  potash  and  three  hundred 
gallons  of  water.  The  skins  may  be  left  in  the  solution  for 
about  two  hours,  or  they  may  be  processed  in  a  drum  for 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  and  are  then  wrung  out  dry  and 


DEER-SKINS. 


229 


immersed  in  a  solution  composed  as  follows :  Twelve 
pounds  of  hard  soap  and  two  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  in  one 
hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water.  The  skins  require  to 
be  left  in  this  solution  long  enough  to  become  wet  through, 
and  are  then  removed  and  hung  up  and  dried  out.  They 
are  treated  in  this  way,  wetting  in  the  liquor  and  drying- 
out  two  or  three  times.  After  being  thus  treated  and 
properly  tawed,  they  are  put,  in  the  dry  state,  into  clear 
water  and  washed  in  a  thorough  manner  to  remove  all 
foreign  matter  from  them,  and  in  this  moist  condition  are 
dried  to  produce  leather  of  various  colors,  or  they  may  be 
dried  out  without  further  treatment  and  will  make  a  white 
leather. 

Another  process  that  results  in  soft  tough  leather  consists 
in  subjecting  the  skins,  as  they  come  from  the  drenching 
and  w^ashing,  to  a  liquor  composed  of  two  pounds  of  caustic 
soda,  one  pound  of  borax  and  sufficient  water  to  cover  the 
skins,  say  one  hundred  gallons.  The  quantities  named 
are  sufficient  for  one  hundred  and  twenty  average  size 
skins.  The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  one- 
half  hour,  and  are  then  removed  and  hung  up  and  dried 
out.  The  dried  skins  are  next  placed  in  a  solution  com- 
posed of  five  pounds  of  hard  soap,  one  gallon  of  straits  oil, 
one-half  pound  of  caustic  soda  and  seventy-five  gallons  of 
water.  The  skins  require  to  be  left  in  this  solution  until 
they  have  become  wet  through  and  soft,  after  which  they 
are  placed  in  a  drum  with  some  of  the  liquor  and  drummed 
therein  for  one-half  hour,  being  then  removed  and  dried 
out  as  before.  The  skins  are  next  drummed  again  in  part 
of  the  second  solution  and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out 
again.  Sometimes  this  process  needs  to  be  repeated  two  or 
three  times  until  satisfactory  leather  results.  When  they 
are  dried  out  without  further  coloring,  the  skins  are  nearly 
white.  They  may  be  colored  any  shade  or  smoked,  and 
will  be  found  to  be  very  soft,  tough  and  strong. 

When  the  grain  has  been  removed  from  the  skins  in 


230 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  beam-house,  the  skins  may  be  satisfactorily  tanned  in 
the  following  maimer  :  For  two  dozen  skins  of  average  size, 
a  solution  is  prepared  of  one  pound  of  alum,  one  and  one- 
half  gallons  of  water,  one-half  pound  each  of  flour  and 
oatmeal  or  one  pound  of  either  alone,  with  one  gill  of  oil 
and  enough  water  to  make  a  total  of  three  gallons  of  liquor 
for  each  two  dozen  skins.  In  this  liquor  the  skins  are 
drummed  for  about  thirty  minutes,  after  which  they  are 
allowed  to  drain  and  are  then  drummed  in  a  liquor  com- 
posed of  one  gill  of  ammonia,  one-half  bar  of  soap,  one- 
half  ounce  of  soda,  one-half  pound  of  salt  and  about  two 
ounces  of  ochre,  all  boiled  in  two  gallons  of  water,  until 
they  are  thoroughly  dissolved,  to  which  are  added  one-half 
pound  of  flour  and  one-half  pound  of  oatmeal  or  one  pound 
of  either  alone,  mixed  in  one  and  one-half  gallons  of  water. 
In  this  liquor  the  skins  are  drummed  for  thirty  minutes, 
then  dried  out,  staked  and  finished  upon  either  side  in  the 
usual  manner. 

The  skins  may  be  treated  in  the  first  liquor  and  then 
dried  out  and  worked  soft  without  the  use  of  the  second 
liquor.  Still,  in  the  majority  of  cases  it  is  best  to  use  the 
entire  process,  and  when  finished  they  bear  a  close  resem- 
blance to  castor  glove  leather. 

Deer-skins  may  also  he  satisfactorily  tanned  in  a  liquor 

Composed  of  the  following  articles  in  the  proportions 
named  :  Seven  pounds  of  alum,  three  pounds  of  glauber 
salt,  four  pounds  of  common  salt,  ten  gallons  of  soft  water, 
five  pounds  of  ground  sumac,  three  pounds  of  oak  bark, 
one  pound  of  ground  nutgalls  and  four  ounces  of  oil  of 
vitriol.  The  alum,  glauber  and  common  salt,  in  the  quan- 
tities named,  are  reduced  to  a  fine  powder  by  any  suitable 
means  and  then  dissolved  by  boiling  in  the  ten  gallons  of 
water.  The  sumac,  oak  bark  and  nutgalls  are  then  mixed 
together  and  boiled  briskly  for  twenty  minutes,  more  or 
less,  then  the  mixture  while  hot  is  strained  over  the  alum 


DEER-SKINS. 


231 


and  salts  mixed  together  as  has  been  stated  ;  the  four 
ounces  of  oil  of  vitriol  are  then  added  and  the  liquor 
thoroughly  stirred.  In  the  liquor  thus  compounded  the 
prepared  skins  are  placed,  the  liquor  being  lukewarm,  and 
the  skins  left  therein  for  at  least  twenty -four  hours. 
During  the  first  few  hours  the  skins  may  be  stirred  about, 
or  they  may  be  drummed  in  the  liquor  in  the  drum  for  one 
hour  and  then  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  for  some  hours. 
When  the  tanning  is  completed,  the  skins  are  removed  from 
the  liquor,  and  after  being  allowed  to  drip  they  are  set  out 
on  both  sides,  a  glass  slicker  being  used  for  the  grain  side. 
A  heavy  coat  of  lard  oil  is  then  applied  to  both  sides ;  then 
the  skins  ure  hung  in  a  warm  place  until  they  become  dry. 
This  process  in  a  short  time  produces  very  soft  leather  and 
at  small  expense. 

Tawing  with  sulphate  of  alumina. 

If  a  superior  quality  of  alum -tawed  leather  is  wanted,  of 
full  plump  body  and  of  fine  texture,  the  skins  may  be 
tawed  in  the  following  manner :  As  they  come  from  the 
beam-house  and  without  pickling,  they  are  weighed,  and 
for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  ready  for  tawing, 
three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  six  pounds  of  salt 
are  dissolved  in  six  gallons  of  water.  This  liquor  is  placed 
in  a  drum  with  the  skins  and  the  skins  drummed  for  thirty 
minutes.  Then  to  fix  the  tawing  materials  upon  the  fibres 
of  the  skins  about  ten  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  are 
dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water,  and  this  solution  poured 
into  the  drum  and  the  drumming  continued  for  another 
thirty  minutes.  Then  to  overcome  the  thinness  of  the 
skins  caused  by  the  hyposulphite  of  soda,  another  solution 
of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  is  added.  This  may 
consist  of  two  pounds  of  alumina  and  three  pounds  of  salt 
dissolved  in  four  gallons  of  water.  This  solution  plumps 
the  skins  and  completes  the  process.  The  skins,  after 
being  taken  from  the  drum,  are  thrown  over  horses  and 


232 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  some  hours,  after  which 
they  are  rinsed  off  by  being  dipped  into  water,  and  dried 
out  and  finished  the  same  as  chrome-tanned  skins.  Egg 
yolk  and  neatsfoot  oil  may  be  used  to  soften  the  leather, 
a  heavy  coat  of  the  oil  being  applied  to  the  flesh  side. 
The  softness  of  the  skins  is  largely  produced  by  the  tannage 
and  the  nature  of  the  articles  used  in  nourishing  the  leather 
after  it  is  tanned.  Olive  oil  p^^oduces  good  results  when 
used  with  egg  yolk,  but  it  is  too  expensive  for  general 
common  use.  The  greases  should  be  thoroughl}^  absorbed 
by  the  skins  before  they  are  dried  out.  Fat-liquors  com- 
posed of  soap,  oil  and  egg-yolk  give  great  softness  and 
strength  to  the  leather  and  do  not  streak  or  spot  the  whitest 
or  most  delicately-tinted  leather.  When  the  skins  are 
colored  in  drums,  the  fat-liquoring  should  not  be  done 
until  after  the  coloring.  A  mixture  of  flour  and  water 
is  sometimes  added  to  the  fat-liquor  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
creasing the  fullness  and  plumpness  of  the  leather.  A 
tannage  of  salt,  alum,  flour  and  oil  produces  very  soft  and 
elastic  leather.  The  tawing  is  done  the  best  in  drums,  and 
the  skins  drummed  in  the  paste  of  salt,  alum,  flour  and 
oil  until  all  the  ingredients  are  absorbed,  then  they  are 
dried  out,  dumped  back  and  finished  in  the  usual  manner. 
All  excess  of  tawing  materials  should  be  removed  before 
the  leather  is  colored,  as  this  has  much  to  do  with  getting 
clear  and  uniform  shades. 

An  old-fashioned  and  very  simple  method  of  tanning  deer-skins 

Consists  of  washing  the  skins  in  the  usual  way,  and  after 
they  have  been  well  and  heavily  limed,  they  are  drenched 
in  a  sour-bran  drench.  After  liming,  and  before  drenching, 
the  grain  is  shaved  ofl",  and  after  washing  and  drenching, 
the  skins  are  well  drained;  they  are  given  heavy  coats  of 
oil  on  both  the  grain  and  flesh  sides,  rolled  up  for  a  few 
days  and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  After  the  skins 
become  dry  they  should  be  washed  in  warm  soap-suds  and 


DEER-SKINS. 


233 


the  soap-suds  left  in  the  skins,  and  the  leather  dried  out 
again.  During  the  drying,  the  skins  should  be  worked 
until  they  become  thoroughly  soft  and  dry.  Treated  in  this 
way,  the  skins  become  as  soft  as  chamois.  The  oil  may  be 
driven  into  the  skins  by  means  of  mills,  and  the  work  thus 
hastened  and  better  results  secured. 

The  drying  of  the  leather  should  take  place  in  a  moder- 
ately warm  room,  so  as  not  to  parch  the  skins,  and  while 
drying  they  should  be  worked  occasionally,  so  that  the 
drying  and  softening  will  be  accomplished  at  the  same 
time. 

The  chrome  methods  of  tanning  seem  especially  adapted  to 

deer-skins, 

As  they  produce  good,  tough  and  yet  very  soft  leather. 
Before  being  chrome-tanned,  the  skins  require  a  very  thor- 
ough liming  and  drenching,  and  after  tanning  they  are 
^iven  more  fat-liquor  than  skins  intended  for  shoe  purposes. 
Dirty  limes  and  dirty  soaks  are  fatal  to  the  best  results 
in  the  leather.  It  is  essential  that  all  the  lime  be  gotten 
rid  of  before  the  skins  are  tanned  ;  the  more  thoroughly  the 
^kins  are  reduced,  the  softer  will  be  the  finished  leather. 
After  drenching,  the  skins  may  be  pickled  in  a  solution  of 
sulphuric  acid,  salt  and  water,  or  they  may  be  tanned  with- 
out pickling,  by  being  tanned  at  once  in  the  chrome  liquor. 
When  they  are  tanned  without  pickling,  it  is  good  practice 
to  drum  them  in  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and 
salt,  using  about  three  pounds  of  the  former  and  six  pounds 
of  the  latter,  dissolved  in  six  gallons  of  water,  for  every  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins.  The  skins  may  be  drummed  in 
this  liquor  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  and  then  given 
the  chrome  liquor.  When  convenient  to  do  so,  the  skins 
should  be  thrown  over  horses,  after  the  drumming  in 
alumina  and  salt,  for  twenty-four  hours  before  they  are 
tanned  in  the  chrome  liquor.  In  drum  tanning,  three 
gallons  of  concentrated  tanning  liquor  are  usually  required 


234 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  although  the  quan- 
tity varies.  Some  liquors  must  be  used  in  quantity,  five 
or  six  gallons  for  every  hundred  weight  of  stock.  A  drum- 
ming for  three  hours  in  the  chrome  liquor  will  cause  the 
skins  to  be  well  struck  with  the  liquor,  and  after  this  they 
should  lie  in  the  liquor  one  day,  in  order  that  the  salts 
taken  up  by  them  may  have  time  to  exert  their  full  tawing 
powers  upon  the  skins.  After  Ihis  the  skins  should  be 
washed  for  about  twenty  minutes  in  borax  water  and  then 
for  twenty  minutes  in  clean  water.  This  washes  out  all 
the  salt,  alum  and  tanning  liquor  and  leaves  the  skins  in 
right  condition  for  coloring  and  finishing. 

A  good  method  of  chrome-tanning  the  skins 

Consists  of  pickling  the  skins  as  they  come  from  the  process 
of  drenching  in  a  solution  of  salt,  sulphuric  acid  and  water, 
made  up  of  two  and  one-half  quarts  of  the  acid  and  sixty 
pounds  of  salt  for  one  hundred  skins.  In  this  pickle  the 
skins  may  remain  six  hours,  and  are  then  removed  and 
allowed  to  drain  well  before  tanning.  Then  the  pickled 
skins  are  placed  in  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  glauber  salt, 
composed  of  one  pound  of  the  salt  dissolved  in  eight  gallons 
of  warm  water  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins. 
The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  the  liquor  is  drained  out  of  the  drum  and  replaced  by 
a  solution  of  common  salt,  ten  pounds  of  salt  in  eight 
gallons  of  water  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  In 
this  the  skins  are  drummed  for  five  minutes,  after  which 
the  chrome  liquor  is  added  in  quantity  about  three  gallons 
for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  It  should  be  added, 
a  gallon  at  a  time,  at  intervals  of  one-half  hour,  and  the- 
skins  drummed  therein  for  three  hours.  One-half  pound 
of  bicarbonate  of  soda  is  next  dissolved  in  one  gallon  water 
and  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum  and  the  drum  run  for 
one-half  hour  longer,  after  which  the  tanning  should  be 
complete,  although  the  skins  should  be  allowed  to  lie  in  the 


DEER-SKINS. 


235 


liquor  over  night,  and  be  then  thoroughly  washed  for  at 
least  thirty  minutes. 

In  order  that  the  skins  may  take  the  colors  right,  the 
skins  must  be  perfectly  neutral  and  clean.  This  is  accom- 
plished by  the  washing ;  and  borax  is  a  good  article  to  use 
to  accomplish  the  object,  as  it  not  only  removes  the  acids, 
but  leaves  the  skins  soft  and  smooth.  When  acid  is  left  in 
the  leather,  especially  when  a  two-bath  process  of  tanning 
is  used,  it  works  upon  the  oils  and  fat-liquors  and  causes  a 
mouldy  and  sticky  appearance  in  the  leather ;  also  causes 
the  leather  to  become  hard  and  papery  after  being  finished 
for  a  time.  In  addition  it  weakens  the  strength  of  the 
fibers  and  causes  the  leather  soon  to  wear  out. 

Deer-skins  may  also  be  very  nicely  tanned  by  any  of  the  two- 
bath  processes 

That  have  been  already  described.  The  important  point 
to  be  observed  in  using  the  two-bath  processes  is  to  be  sure 
that  the  chrome  liquor  of  the  first  bath  has  penetrated 
every  fibre  of  the  thickest  skin  before  the  stock  is  placed  in 
the  second  bath.  The  first  bath  may  be  applied  to  the 
skins  in  a  drum,  and  the  second  bath  in  a  paddle  vat. 
After  the  skins  are  tanned  in  either  one-bath  or  two-bath 
processes,  they  may  be  washed  thoroughly  and  left  for  a 
few  hours  in  a  warm  bath  of  sumac.  This  leaves  the  skins 
almost  white,  and  if  they  are  to  be  colored  fancy  shades,  the 
sumac  acts  as  a  mordant. 

The  skins,  as  they  come  from  the  tanning  liquor,  should 
be  very  thoroughly  washed  and  then  the  surplus  water 
struck  or  pressed  out  of  them  before  they  are  colored  and 
dried  out.  After  coloring,  the  skins  should  be  again  washed 
off  and  pressed  and  then  fat-liquored.  The  quality  of  the 
leather  largely  depends  upon  the  materials  used  in  greasing 
the  leather  after  it  is  tanned.  Emulsions  of  soap  and  oil 
are  generally  used  and  impart  great  strength,  softness  and 
fineness  to  the  leather.    A  point  of  importance  is  that  the 


236 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


ingredients  of  the  fat-liquor  must  be  thoroughly  combined 
with  each  other  to  get  the  best  results.  A  very  good  fat- 
liquor  for  glove  leather  is  made  of  ten  pounds  of  Palermo 
fig  soap  or  another  suitable  potash  one,  four  gallons  of  neats- 
foot  oil  and  ten  pounds  of  egg-yolk  in  fifty  gallons  of  water. 
The  soap  is  first  boiled  in  about  ten  gallons  of  water,  then 
the  oil  is  cut  with  a  few  ounces  of  sal  soda  or  borax  and 
mixed  with  the  boiled  soap.  Cold  water  is  next  run  in 
until  the  temperature  is  about  seventy-five  degrees,  then  the 
egg-yolk  is  added  and  the  mixture  applied  to  the  skins  in  a 
drum  at  a  temperature  not  less  than  ninety  degrees  Fah. 
The  fat-liquor  should  be  added,  a  gallon  or  two  at  a  time, 
until  it  is  all  in,  and  then  the  leather  drummed  in  it  for  not 
less  than  thirty  minutes  or  until  the  grease  has  been  all  ab- 
sorbed by  the  leather  and  nothing  but  water  is  left  behind. 
After  the  fat-liquoring,  the  skins  should  be  laid  in  piles  or 
thrown  over  horses  for  some  hours  to  enable  the  grease  to 
become  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  leather  before  it 
is  dried  out. 

The  best  results  follow  when  the  skins  are  colored  before 
being  fat-liquored.  The  drum  method  of  coloring  is  gen- 
erally preferred,  as  it  produces  more  uniform  results  and 
takes  up  less  time  than  other  methods.  For  mordants, 
sumac  and  fustic  are  generally  used. 

A  somewhat  crude  process  of  tanning  deer-sJcins, 

In  use  among  the  Indians,  who  are  noted  for  making  buck- 
skins as  soft  and  strong  as  velvet,  is  carried  out  as  follows  : 
Take  a  skin,  either  green  or  well  soaked,  and  flesh  it  clean, 
then  unhair  in  any  suitable  manner.  Then  remove  the 
grain  and  prepare  the  skin  for  tanning  by  drenching  and 
washing.  Take  the  brains  of  the  animal,  dry  them  gently 
by  the  fire,  put  them  into  a  cloth  and  boil  them  until  they 
are  soft,  cool  off  the  liquid  until  bloodwarm  with  water 
sufficient  to  soak  the  skin  in,  and  soak  the  skin  until  it  is 
soaked  thoroughly  with  the  liquor,  and  then  wring  it  out 


DEER-SKINS. 


237 


as  dry  as  possible ;  wash  in  strong  soap-suds,  rub  dry  and 
smoke  with  wood  smoke.  Instead  of  brains,  oil  or  lard  may 
be  used,  and  the  skin  soaked  therein  for  six  hours,  then 
dried  out. 

When  deer-skins  are  to  be  oil  or  chamois  tanned, 

They  should  be  very  thoroughly  limed  from  eight  to  ten 
days,  and  after  unhairing,  the  grain  should  be  removed  by 
any  suitable  machine  or  means.  A  further  liming  for  a 
few  days  after  the  graining  is  an  advantage,  as  it  makes  the 
skins  more  elastic  and  porous.  Old  lime  liquors  produce 
the  best  results,  provided  they  are  kept  clean,  as  they  make 
the  fibres  of  the  skin  very  soft  and  fine  and  free  from  the 
harshness  that  new  fresh  lime  produces. 

To  remove  the  lime  from  the  skins,  a  manure  bate  may 
be  used,  followed  by  a  bran  drench  or  a  drench  of  lactic 
acid.  The  manure  process  of  bating  makes  the  skins  very 
soft  and  stretchy,  but  it  is  best  lo  combine  it  with  some 
other  drench,  so  that  the  skins  may  be  entirely  freed  of  all 
lime  without  injury.  The  manure  bate,  however,  is  not 
necessary,  as  good  leather  can  be  made  by  merely  washing 
the  skins  in  a  warm  lactic  acid  bath  in  a  drum,  made  up 
of  one  gallon  of  acid  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  warm  water 
90°  F.  After  bating  and  drenching,  the  skins  should  be 
washed  off  and  are  then  ready  for  tanning  in  oil. 

Before  the  skins  are  treated  with  oil,  they  should  be 
pressed  in  a  hydraulic  press,  in  order  to  rid  them  of  all 
surplus  and  unnecessary  water,  thus  making  them  as  dry 
as  possible  and  still  retaining  moisture.  They  should  then 
be  given  a  thorough  beating  with  machinery  especially 
constructed  for  the  purpose,  in  order  to  soften  them,  after 
which  they  are  sprinkled  with  cod-liver  oil  and  are  again 
beaten,  in  order  to  force  the  oil  into  the  leather.  The  best 
grade  of  New  Foundland  cod  oil  is  considered  the  best  for 
the  purpose.  The  process  of  oiling  and  beating  the  skins 
is  repeated  two  or  three  times,  or  until  they  have  lost  their 


238 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


original  odor  and  have  acquired  a  mustard  color.  After 
the  oiling  and  beating  process  is  completed,  the  skins  are 
made  to  undergo  a  process  of  heating.  By  this  process,  the 
oxidation  of  the  oil,  which  was  commenced  during  the  pre- 
vious process,  is  completed  by  the  fermentation  that  takes 
place  in  the  skins.  The  heat  is  generated  spontaneously. 
The  skins  must  be  watched  very  closely  and  frequently 
turned  over.  When  the  heat  is  allowed  to  rise  to  a  high 
temperature,  the  leather  is  seriously  damaged.  The  heat 
as  generated  destroys  all  organic  matter  in  the  skins.  The 
highest  temperature  allowable  is  140  degrees  F.  This  pro- 
cess of  heating  is  a  most  delicate  operation,  and  upon  its 
being  properly  done  depends  the  success  of  the  leather. 

When  insufficient  heat  is  generated,  the  leather  rots  ; 
when  too  much  heat  is  produced,  it  becomes  dissolved. 
When  the  fermentation  ceases  and  the  skins  are  no  longer 
susceptible  to  heating,  they  are  treated  to  remove  the  oil. 
This  is  done  by  washing  the  leather  in  hot  water  and  then 
subjecting  it  to  a  hydraulic  press.  The  grease  that  is 
squeezed  out  in  this  way  is  degras,  largely  used  by  curriers 
of  leather.  The  surplus  oil  may  also  be  removed  by  wash- 
ing the  skins  in  a  solution  of  soda  ash,  which  causes  the 
grease  remaining  to  saponify.  The  saponified  oil  removed 
by  pressure  is  neutralized  with  sulphuric  acid  and  becomes 
the  oil  known  as  sod  oil.  A  certain  proportion  of  the  oil 
is,  of  course,  allowed  to  remain  in  the  skins,  so  as  to  give 
them  softness.  The  finishing  process  consists  of  drying, 
working  out  and  smoothing  down  all  unevenness  on  the 
surface. 

The  skins  may  be  bleached  by  being  sprinkled  with 
water  and  exposed  to  the  sun,  or  by  treatment  with  a  weak 
solution  of  permanganate  of  potash,  followed  by  a  treat- 
ment with  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  or  the  leather  may  be 
treated  with  sulphurous  acid  in  the  form  of  gas. 

Methods  of  handling  the  skins  vary.  In  some  instances 
the  skins,  instead  of  being  laid  in  piles  to  ferment,  are 


DEER-SKINS. 


239 


hung  up  in  warm  closed  rooms  or  ovens,  which  is  less  dan- 
gerous and  produces  a  better  color. 

Very  soft  tough  leather  may  be  made  of  deer-skins 
By  first  treating  them  to  a  solution  made  up  of  nine  pounds 
of  alum,  six  pounds  of  salt,  twenty  pounds  of  wheat  flour 
and  twelve  pounds  of  egg  yolk,  thoroughly  mingled  to- 
gether in  twelve  gallons  of  warm  water,  and  used  for  each 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  at  a  temperature  of  90  degrees. 
The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  thirty  minutes, 
and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  Instead  of  twelve 
pounds  of  egg  yolk,  six  pounds  of  the  same  and  six  pounds 
of  olive  oil  may  be  used.  After  being  left  in  the  dry  state 
for  some  weeks  to  cure,  the  skins  may  be  worked  out  soft 
and  finished  without  further  treatment,  or  they  may  be 
washed  in  warm  water  and  then  tanned  in  a  one-bath 
chrome  process.  Oil-tanned  or  chamois  leather  may  also  be 
made  by  passing  the  prepared  skins  (after  bating,  washing 
and  pressing)  through  a  twenty-five  per  cent,  solution  of 
Turkey-red  oil.  This  may  be  accomplished  by  having  the 
solution  warm  and  passing  the  skins  through  the  same,  or 
by  treating  them  with  the  solation  in  a  drum.  After  the 
treatment  with  oil,  the  skins  are  dried  out  and  placed  in  a 
heap  in  a  moderately  warm  room  and  covered  up  for  a  day 
or  two.  They  are  then  hung  up  in  the  air  and  allowed  to 
dry  slowly,  after  which  they  are  again  treated  with  the 
soluble  oil  in  the  same  manner  as  at  first,  again  laid  in  a 
heap,  dried  out  again,  and  then  washed  in  a  weak  solution 
of  borax  or  other  alkali.  By  drying  and  working,  the 
skins  are  made  very  soft  and  completely  oil  tanned. 

The  results  may  be  changed  and  modified  by  greater  or 
less  concentration  of  the  oil  solution  ;  by  higher  temper- 
ature in  drying  and  by  a  greater  number  of  applications  of 
the  oil.  The  skins  may  also  be  tanned  by  combining  the 
oil  with  the  salts  of  alumina.  The  preferred  method  of 
doing  this  is  to  steep  the  prepared  skins  in  a  solution  con- 


240 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


taining  preferably  fifteen  per  cent,  of  the  Turkey-red  oil, 
and  then  drying  them  out.  The  operation  may  be  repeated, 
and  then  the  regular  method  of  tanning  with  the  alumina 
salts  proceeded  with  in  the  usual  way. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


PATENTED  METHODS  OF  DEPILATING. 

METHODS  OF  USING  NEW  XXX  DEPILATORY,  PATENTED. 

In  addition  to  sulphide  of  sodium,  used  for  the  purpose 
of  removing  hair  and  wool  from  the  hides  and  skins  and 
preparing  them  for  tanning,  there  is  on  the  market  a  pat- 
ented depilatory,  known  as  New  XXX  Depilatory.  This 
material  is  a  very  satisfactory  article  for  both  wool-pullers 
and  tanners  to  use,  and  leather  that  has  been  treated  with 
it  is  characterized  by  great  toughness,  pliability  and  fine 
close  grain.  New  XXX  Depilatory  is  used  upon  the 
various  classes  of  hides  and  skins  in  the  following  manners  : 
The  depilatory  crystals  should  first  be  dissolved  into  a 
liquid  with  boiling  water  or  steam  ;  being  a  compound,  the 
material  is  simply  reduced  with  hot  water  and  not  allowed 
to  settle,  but  the  whole  liquor  is  used,  as  the  settlings  are  a 
most  valuable  part  of  the  preparation,  forming  a  slight 
carrying  body,  which  adheres  to  the  skins  and  will  not  gum 
or  injure  the  wool,  but  on  the  contrary  makes  it  clean,  soft 
and  silky,  equal  to  sweated  wool.  The  strength  of  the 
solution  should  be  for  salted  skins,  12  to  24  degrees  Beaum^; 
thin  open  wool  skins,  14  to  18  degrees  ;  thick  heavy  merino 
and  bucks,  18  to  24  degrees ;  milk  lambs,  18  to  24  degrees ; 
used  upon  goat  and  kid  skins  at  the  same  strengths  as  upon 
sheep  and  lamb-skins.  The  strength,  however,  need  never 
be  greater  than  just  sufficient  to  start  the  wool  or  hair ;  if 
applied  stronger  than  this,  no  injury  results  to  the  skins, 
the  material  is  merely  wasted. 

The  skin  should  never  be  allowed  to  heat  before  or  after 
treatment,  nor  in  any  stage  of  the  process.    Salted  or  dried 
16  ( 241 ) 


242 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


skins  should  be  soaked  from  twenty. four  to  sixty  hours,  and 
after  washing  and  breaking  thoroughly,  should  be  well 
drained  of  water  or  extracted  before  painting  with  depila- 
tory. The  wool  or  hair  usually  starts  in  a  few  hours  after 
painting,  and  it  is  well  to  pull  or  unhair  promptly,  say 
the  next  day.  Milk  or  young  lamb  and  kid-skins  on  which 
the  depilatory  is  used  full  strength,  should  be  pulled  as 
soon  as  the  wool  or  hair  starts,  aud  immediately  put  into 
clean,  cold  water  and  then  limed  very  lightly  from  six  to 
eighteen  hours.  All  slats,  after  pulling  and  unhairing, 
should  be  immediately  put  into  cold  water,  to  which  some 
depilatory  has  been  added  ;  in  this  the  skins  are  safe,  for  a 
good  while,  and  in  no  danger  of  heating,  pricking  or  spoil- 
ing. No  depilatory-treated  skin  can  be  injured  so  long  as 
the  skin  is  kept  moist  and  not  allowed  to  dry  out  or  be- 
come hard.  The  first  lime  can  be  half  renewed  for  each 
batch  of  skins  by  adding  one  bucketful  of  lime  for  every 
four  hundred  skins,  and  should  always  be  kept  clean  and 
sweet,  and  only  used  once  ;  and  the  slats  may  remain  in 
this  lime  over  night  or  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hours  in 
warm  weather,  and  from  twelve  to  thirty-six  hours  in  cold 
weather. 

The  second  lime  should  be  made  entirely  fresh,  using 
about  two  buckets  of  lime  to  every  four  hundred  skins. 
The  slats  can  remain  in  this  lime  from  one  to  two  days  in 
hot  weather,  and  two  to  four  days  in  cold  weather,  then 
they  will  be  sufficiently  limed  for  ordinary  purposes.  If 
they  are  to  be  tanned  without  pickling,  a  little  more  lime 
may  be  necessary  and  will  do  no  harm  ;  if  high-limed 
stock  is  desired,  a  third,  and  even  a  fourth  lime  may  be 
used.  It  will  be  found  advantageous  to  pull  the  slats  out 
•daily  while  liming  in  case  still  limes  are  used,  and  it  should 
always  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  stronger  the  solution  of 
depilatory  is,  and  the  less  it  is  washed  out  before  liming, 
the  weaker  and  less  liming  are  required.  After  the  skins 
are  taken  out  of  the  lime  vats,  the}^  should  be  washed  in 


PATENTED  METHODS  OF  DEPILATING.  243 

clean  cold  water  and  are  then  ready  for  fleshing  or  the 
drench,  out  of  which,  work  on  the  grain  side  and  trim,  put- 
ting them  again  into  clean  water  as  fast  as  worked,  and 
from  this  water  flesh  them  well  on  the  beams  or  machine. 

In  the  treatment  of  light  hair  skins,  such  as  goat  and 
kangaroo-skins,  when  it  is  not  desired  to  save  the  hair,  the 
skins  can  be  soaked  and  softened,  and  then  put  into  a 
liquor  made  up  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  pounds  of  depilatory 
to  every  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  in  the  vat.  The 
depilator}'  should  all  be  dissolved  and  the  liquor  well 
stirred  up  before  the  skins  are  put  in.  To  keep  the  skins 
in  a  solution  prepared  in  this  manner  for  twenty-four 
hours,  with  occasional  stirring  about,  results  in  reducing  the 
hair  to  pulp,  which  can  be  easily  removed  from  the  skins 
by  washing  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  clean  cold  water. 
The  mixing  of  lime  with  the  depilatory  is  not  recom- 
mended, as  the  stock  is  not  quite  so  soft  as  when  the  depil- 
atory is  used  alone.  In  case  dry  skins  do  not  get  thor- 
oughly soaked  and  softened  before  they  are  put  into  the 
solution  of  depilatory,  they  may  remain  in  the  liquor  from 
twenty-four  to  forty-eight  hours,  according  to  strength  of 
the  liquor  and  condition  of  the  skins  until  they  are  thor- 
oughly soft  and  plump.  No  lime  should  be  applied  until 
the  skins  are  completely  softened.  After  the  skins  are 
washed  to  remove  the  dissolved  hair,  they  may  be  lightly 
limed  for  a  few  days  and  then  fleshed  and  drenched. 

If  it  is  desired  to  save  the  hair,  the  skins  should  be 
soaked  in  the  usual  way  and  then  the  water  extracted  by 
means  of  a  hydro-extractor,  or  by  the  skins  draining  thor- 
oughly. Then  they  may  be  painted  with  the  solution  of 
depilatory,  at  a  strength  of  eighteen  degrees,  each  skin 
then  folded  up,  flesh  side  in,  and  allowed  to  lie  until  the 
next  day,  then  the  hair  may  be  easily  rubbed  off",  the  skins 
washed  and  limed  for  a  few  days.  Any  one  of  the  well- 
known  methods  of  drenching  skins  after  liming  may  be 
used.     Manures  are  disagreeable  and  somewhat  risky. 


244 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Lactic  acid  and  some  of  the  chemical  bates  are  safe  and 
cheap.  Bran  ma^^  also  be  used  with  good  results  when  it  is 
properly  applied.  For  the  finer  grades  of  skins  it  is  some- 
times necessary  to  work  them  thoroughly  upon  the  grain 
after  drenching^to  remove  all  lime  and  impurities  and  then 
to  wash  them  in  warm  water,  when  they  will  be  ready  for 
pickling  or  tanning.  It  is  always  good  practice  to  handle 
the  skins  promptl}^  and  to  allow  no  delay  to  take  place  be- 
tween the  operations,  especially  in  hot  weather.  The  limes 
should  be  kept  sweet  and  clean  and  the  skins  liandled  fre- 
quently and  carefully  drenched,  as  it  is  during  these  pro- 
cesses that  the  character  of  the  leather  is  made. 

When  New  XXX  Depilatory  is  used  upon  hides  intended 
for  sole  leather,  the  unhairing  should  take  place  as 
promptly  as  possible  and  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  affect 
the  weight  of  the  hides,  nor  to  remove  substance  and  impair 
the  strength  of  the  leather.  The  usual  method  employed 
is,  after  the  hide  is  soaked,  it  is  spread  out  on  a  smooth 
surface,  hair  uppermost.  If  no  value  is  placed  on  the  hair, 
the  hair  side  is  painted  with  depilatory,  used  either  clear  or 
mixed  with  lime,  well-slaked  lime,  three  parts,  depilatory 
liquor  about  eighteen  degrees  strength,  one  part.  The 
lime  should  be  well  slaked,  and  the  depilatory  crystals 
dissolved  before  being  mixed.  To  apply  the  same,  a  vege- 
table fibre  or  tampico  brush  or  swab  made  of  burlap  or 
bagging  may  be  used. 

After  the  mixture  has  been  applied  evenly  over  the  hide, 
the  leather  should  be  doubled  up  carefully  and  covered  up 
so  as  to  exclude  the  air  and  prevent  the  drying  of  the 
paste.  If  the  hair  is  to  be  saved,  the  hides  should  be 
painted  on  the  flesh  side  and  the  hair  kept  clean.  The 
hides  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  damp  place  until  the  hair 
starts,  then  opened  out,  washed  in  clean  cold  water  and  un- 
haired  ;  then  fleshed  and  the  grain  worked  and  washed 
when  the  hides  are  ready  for  tanning. 

The  unhairing  can  be  done  another  way.    A  vat  is  filled 


PATENTED  METHODS  OF  DEPILATING.  245 

with  water,  and  from  one-half  to  three-fourths  lime,  and 
one-fourth  to  one-half  dissolved  depilatory  liquor,  eighteen 
or  twenty  degrees  strength,  added  thereto  and  well  mixed. 
Then  the  hides  are  thrown  in  and  left  in  the  liquor  over 
night  or  from  one  day  until  the  next.  The  use  of  lime  is 
not  necessary  ;  a  liquor  of  nothing  but  depilatory  crystals 
of  a  strength  of  from  five  to  ten  degrees  may  be  used.  In 
this  the  hides  may  remain  until  they  are  thoroughly  soft 
and  the  hair  comes  off  readily.  All  tanning  operations  are 
the  same  as  sweated  or  limed  hides,  except  that  slightly 
stronger  liquors  are  required.  It  must  be  mentioned  here 
that  only  hides  intended  for  heavy  leather  should  be  treated 
in  the  above  manner.  The  hair  is  lost,  but  this  loss  is  more 
than  made  up  by  the  extra  quality  and  increased  weight 
gained  in  the  leather,  the  superior  fine  close  grain,  exceed- 
ing toughness  and  pliability  and  great  saving  of  time  and 
labor. 

For  upper,  belting,  harness,  enameled  and  patent  leather, 
also  calf-skins,  the  hides  or  skins  may  be  painted  on  the 
grain  or  flesh  side  and  washed  or  unhaired  as  soon  as  the 
hair  becomes  loosened,  which  will  be  in  from  twelve  to 
twenty-four  hours,  depending  upon  the  thickness  and  con- 
dition of  the  hides  or  skins,  and  the  temperature  and 
strength  of  the  depilatory  liquor.  If  no  value  is  placed 
upon  the  hair,  the  vat  method  may  be  used.  When  it  is 
desired  to  save  the  hair  it  should  be  promptly  and  well 
washed  and  spread  out  to  dry  as  soon  as  convenient  after 
being  taken  off.  Dry  foreign  hides,  kips,  etc.,  must  be 
brought  to  natural  condition  of  softness  by  thorough  soak- 
ing in  water,  fulling  and  stretching.  This  work  can  be 
greatly  hastened  and  facilitated  by  dissolving  and  adding 
to  the  soaks  about  one-eighth  of  an  ounce  of  depilatory  for 
each  hide  or  skin  to  be  soaked. 

By  painting  the  hides  or  skins  as  has  been  described, 
and  after  unhairing,  a  further  liming  or  swelling  may  be 
considered  necessary  for  easier  fleshing,  scraping,  beaming 


246 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


or  splitting.  This  can  be  done  by  means  of  depilatory 
water  alone,  which  can  be  made  new,  or  the  water  the 
painted  hides  have  been  washed  in  after  unhairing  can  be 
saved  for  the  purpose,  or  weak  clean  limes,  as  for  goat 
and  sheep-skins';  can  be  used.  But  in  any  case  the  liquor 
should  be  well  stirred  and  mixed  before  the  hides  are  put 
in.  The  strength  of  the  liquor  can  be  reduced  or  increased 
as  circumstances  require.  The  proportion  of  depilatory 
necessary  for  liming  and  swelling  purposes  is  about  one  to 
one  and  one-half  ounces  for  each  hide ;  one-half  to  three- 
fourths  of  an  ounce  for  each  kip  ;  and  one-fourth  to  three- 
eighths  of  an  ounce  for  each  calf-skin.  If  the  water  is 
hard,  a  little  more  may  be  used.  The  swelling  and  liming 
are  usually  completed  in  from  one  to  four  days,  depending 
upon  the  nature  and  condition  of  the  hides  or  skins,  the 
strength  of  the  liquor  and  the  weather  and  temperature 
of  the  limes. 

All  hides  intended  for  splitting  after  unhairing,  can  be 
plumped  or  swelled  much  better  with  depilatory  water,  or 
with  clean  well  slaked  lime  with  depilatory  water  added, 
from  one-fourth  to  three  ounces  of  depilatory  for  each  hide, 
depending  on  size  and  thickness.  It  will  require  from  one 
to  five  days.  The  tanner  must  use  his  judgment  as  to 
these  matters,  and  if  the  right  results  are  not  obtained  on 
first  trial,  something  has  been  done  wrong.  It  is  also 
important  that  the  hides  or  skins  be  opened  out,  examined 
and  handled  daily  ;  the  scraping,  fleshing  and  shaving  can 
be  done  immediately  after  unhairing  or  after  swelling. 
Any  stray  hairs  that  may  remain  can  easily  be  removed 
when  cleaning  the  grain  after  swelling.  A  thorough  clean- 
ing of  the  grain  is  generally  superfluous,  it  being  usually 
smooth  and  clean,  as  nothing  touches  it  to  make  it  un- 
clean. A  slight  washing  in  warm  water  is  sufficient  to 
cause  the  stray  hairs  to  come  ofiP.  For  some  kinds  of  stock 
an  oat  straw  or  bran  drench  will  tend  to  soften  and  improve 
the  grain. 


PATENTED  METHODS  OF  DEPILATING.  247 

If  no  value  is  placed  on  the  hair,  the  painting  of  hides, 
kips,  calf-skins  and  other  skins  intended  for  tough  upper 
leather  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  no  lime  need  be  used. 
From  twelve  to  forty-eight  ounces  of  depilatory  dissolved 
and  added  to  every  fifteen  gallons  of  water  in  the  vat, 
may  be  used.  According  to  strength  of  this  liquor  the 
hides  or  skins  will  unhair  in  two  or  three  days  and  will  be 
sufficiently  swelled  to  be  fleshed,  beamed  and  split.  The 
time  can  be  increased  or  shortened  by  using  more  or  less 
depilatory  in  the  water.  The  glue  stock  obtained  is  just 
as  valuable  as  from  limed  or  sweated  hides,  but  should  be 
limed  before  it  is  used. 

The  unequal  thickness  of  horse-hides  makes  them  par- 
ticularly difficult  to  unhair  and  swell  sufficiently  for  splitting, 
and  to  overcome  this  a  depilatory,  liquor  of  eighteen  degrees 
Be.  may  be  used  on  the  fore  part,  and  a  liquor  of  twenty -four 
degrees  upon  the  hind  part,  used  either  clear  or  mixed 
with  lime.  After  unhairing,  the  hides  may  be  limed  for 
a  few  days  in  weak  clean  limes,  the  length  of  time  of  liming 
being  reduced  fully  one-half.  The  subsequent  treatment 
is  the  same  as  usually  employed.  Hog  and  alligator-skins 
are  limed  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  horse  and 
other  hides.  Patented  depilatories  are  made  and  sold  by 
Messrs.  Stone,  Timlow  &  Co.,  of  New  York  City. 

An  interesting  process  for  preparing  hides  and  skins 
for  tanning, 

Invented  and  patented  by  the  Messrs.  John  and  Edward 
Pullman,  of  London,  England,  is  based  upon  the  use  of 
solutions  of  caustic  soda  and  calcium  chloride,  in  place  of 
lime.  This  process  is  intended  to  do  away  with  the  old 
liming  process.  It  consists  of  two  baths.  In- the  first  bath 
the  hides  or  skins  are  saturated  with  caustic  soda.  This  is 
acted  upon  by  calcium  chloride  of  the  second  bath,  and  the 
union  of  the  two  chemicals  forms  calcium  hydrate  or  lime, 
and  salt  in  the  interior  of  the  hides  or  skins.    The  time  of 


248 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


preparing  the  hides  or  skins  is  greatly  shortened,  it  being 
possible  to  accomplish  in  four  hours  what  by  the  old 
method  required  ten  days.  More  exact  liming  is  obtained 
because  definite  weights  of  raw  skins  may  be  acted  upon  by 
previously-determined  quantities  of  caustic  soda  and  cal- 
cium chloride.  The  salts  formed  in  the  skins  are  very 
soluble  and  readily  removed  ;  and  as  a  consequence  less 
bating  and  drenching  are  required  than  in  the  older  method 
of  liming.  The  process  may  be  reversed  by  first  using  the 
bath  of  calcium  chloride  and  then  applying  to  the  skins 
saturated  with  the  same,  the  caustic  soda  solution. 

The  hides  or  skins  to  be  treated  by  this  process  must  first 
be  soaked  in  a  putrid  or  foul  .soak.  The  object  of  this  is 
to  introduce  a  sort  of  bacterial  action  necessary  to  loosen 
the  hair.  After  the  skins  or  hides  become  thoroughly  soft- 
ened in  the  soak  water,  they  are  placed  in  a  drum  with  a 
solution  of  caustic  soda,  from  one  to  one  and  one-fourth  per 
cent,  of  the  soda  being  used.  In  this  solution  the  stock  is 
treated  in  the  drum  for  three  hours,  more  or  less,  according 
to  thickness,  and  then  taken  from  the  drum  and  allowed  to 
drain  for  some  time,  after  which  it  is  replaced  in  the  drum 
with  a  one  and  a  half  per  cent,  solution  of  calcium  chloride, 
in  which  it  is  drummed  for  from  one-half  to  one  hour. 

When  vats  are  used,  more  time  is  consumed  than  when 
drums  are  employed.  The  first  bath  usually  requires  forty- 
eight  hours,  and  the  hides  or  skins  are  handled  two  or  three 
times.  In  the  second  bath  they  remain  a  similar  length  of 
time  and  are  also  handled  once  or  twice.  The  unhairing  is 
done  in  the  usual  way.  The  addition  of  a  small  quantity 
of  sulphide  of  sodium  to  the  caustic  soda  solution  causes 
quicker  loosening  of  the  hair,  in  the  case  of  skins  upon 
which  the  lime  or  caustic  alkali  in  solution  possesses  a 
deleterious  action,  the  skins  may  be  submitted  to  the  action 
of  a  sufficiently  strong  solution  of  the  calcium  chloride 
until  they  are  saturated  with  it,  and  they  may  then  be 
painted  upon  the  flesh  side  with  the  caustic  solution,  so  that 


PATENTED  METHODS  OF  DEPILATING. 


249 


by  penetration  into  the  skins  a  perfect  and  intimate  liming 
results  without  contact  with  or  injury  to  the  fur,  hair  or 
wool.  This  method  is  necessary  in  preparing  sheep  pelts 
for  pulling.  When  this  form  of  treatment  is  employed, 
the  strength  of  the  calcium  chloride  may  be  about  two  per 
oent.  and  the  strength  of  the  caustic  soda  solution  from 
three-fourths  to  one  per  cent. 

A  mixture  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  chalk  or  whiting  has 
been  proposed  for  use  in  unhairing 

Skins  and  preparing  them  fortanning.  The  composition  may 
consist  of  sulphide  of  sodium,  three  parts  b}^  weight ;  chalk 
or  whiting,  one  part ;  and  water  in  quantity  of  eight  gallons, 
more  or  less.  The  sulphide  of  sodium,  in  quantity  about 
three  ordinary  bucketfuls,  is  first  dissolved  in  water  to  ob- 
tain a  solution  of  a  strength  varying  from  two  to  six  degrees, 
Baume  test,  the  strength  varying  according  to  to  the  nature 
of  the  hides  or  skins  being  treated.  The  demulcent,  chalk 
or  whiting  is  mixed  with  water,  in  quantity  about  eight 
gallons  to  one  bucketful  of  chalk.  This  mixture  is  then 
added  to  the  previously-prepared  sodium  sulphide  solution. 
The  solution  with  the  demulcent  in  suspension  is  then 
introduced  into  an  open  vat  or  vessel  provided  with  means 
for  agitating  the  same,  as  for  instance  a  paddle  vat. 

The  hides  or  skins  are  introduced  into  the  solution,  which 
is  thoroughly  agitated  for  two  or  three  hours.  The  hides 
or  skins  are  then  permitted  to  remain  at  rest  in  the  solu- 
tion for  a  comparatively  long  period,  say  ten  to  twelve 
hours,  when  the  solution  is  again  agitated.  During  the 
second  agitation  the  solution  is  gradually  diluted  by  the 
addition  of  fresh  water  until  it  contains  no  matter  in  solu- 
tion or  suspension,  but  is  substantially  free  from  the  same. 

By  mixing  with  the  sulphide  of  sodium  a  demulcent  such 
as  chalk  or  whiting,  a  liquid  compound  is  provided,  in  the 
use  of  which  the  caustic  nature  of  the  sulphide  is  diminished 
and  made  far  less  energetic  in  its  action  upon  the  raw 


250 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


hides  or  skins.  By  reason  of  its  mild  chemical  action,  the- 
liquor  readily  softens  the  gristle,  swells  the  fibre,  as  well  as 
effects  speedy  dissolution  of  such  animal  matter  as  it  is  desir- 
able to  remove.  Skins  treated  according  to  this  process  are 
said  to  be  ready  for  tanning  without  further  manipulation 
or  treatment,  and  when  tanned  have  fine,  smooth  grain  and 
firm,  plump  and  mellow  feel.  Patented  by  H.  Holmes, 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 

The  following  described  process  is  known  as  the  Pier  son  and 

Moor  process, 

And  is  also  a  patented  one.  As  will  be  seen  by  the  descrip- 
tion, it  is  new  and  useful  for  the  purpose  of  treating  skins 
and  preparing  them  for  leather.  By  this  method  of  treat- 
ment, which  is  simple,  expeditious  and  comparatively  inex- 
pensive, the  skins  of  goats  and  kangaroos,  and  those  of 
sheep  from  which  the  wool  has  been  pulled,  pelts  and  other 
skins  and  hides  in  the  hair  or  raw  condition,  may  be  pre- 
pared for  and  delivered  to  the  tanner  in  a  few  hours  after 
the  proccess  has  been  commenced.  In  carrying  out  the 
process,  a  hot  solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium  is  prepared. 
For  example,  twenty-five  pounds  of  sulphide  of  sodium 
are  placed  in  a  tank  or  other  suitable  vessel  and  water  in- 
troduced at  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  degrees.  The 
resulting  hot  solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium  is  put  into  a 
drum  that  may  be  closely  sealed  and  rotated  and  more 
water  added,  say  twenty  ordinary  pailfuls  or  forty  to  fifty 
gallons.  Into  this  solution  in  the  drum  the  hides  or  skins, 
just  as  they  come  from  the  soaking  process,  or  in  the  case  of 
sheep-skins  after  the  wool  has  been  removed,  are  placed. 
The  proportions  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  water  mentioned 
are  enough  for  twenty  dozen  skins.  This  number  of  skins 
are  placed  in  a  drum  with  the  solution  of  sulphide  of 
sodium,  the  drum  securely  closed  and  the  skins  drummed 
therein  for  two  hours.  The  drum,  still  closed,  may  now  be 
permitted  to  remain  at  rest  for  ten  or  twelve  hours,  or  over 


PATENTED  METHODS  OF  DEPILATING, 


251 


night.  During  this  time  the  skins  are  excluded  from  the 
air  and  are  exposed  to  the  solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium 
and  to  such  fumes  as  arise  therefrom.  At  the  end  of  the 
stated  time  the  drum  is  opened  and  the  skins  are  washed 
with  water,  after  which  they  are  in  condition  for  the  tanner 
to  receive  and  to  tan  them  by  any  method  of  tanning. 
The  skins  treated  in  this  manner  will  be  found  to  be  of 
close  firm  body,  plump  and  with  a  fine  smooth  grain.  In 
some  tannages  they  do  not  tan  so  readily  as  skins  prepared 
in  the  regular  manner,  but  this  can  be  overcome  by  the  use 
of  strong  tanning  liquors.  The  caustic  nature  of  the  sul- 
phide of  sodium  has  a  more  energetic  effect  upon  some 
skins  than  upon  others.  Calf-skins  are  readily  drawn  or 
contracted  upon  the  grain  when  they  are  treated  to  strong 
solutions  of  sulphide  of  sodium.  A  small  quantity  of  lime 
mixed  with  the  sulphide  liquor  assists  in  getting  a  smooth 
fine  grain,  and  to  overcome  to  some  extent  the  drawing 
tendency  of  the  sulphide  of  sodium  liquor.  When  this 
method  of  preparing  skins  is  used  the  hair  is  lost,  but  this 
loss  of  hair  is  made  up  by  the  firm  solid  leather  that  re- 
sults. When  a  soft  leather  is  wanted,  the  treatment  with 
sulphide  of  sodium  must  be  followed  with  a  short  liming. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


PATENTED  PEOCESSES  OF  BATING. 

The  following  process  of  bating  hides  and  skins  and 
swelling  them  is  of  German  origin,  and  has  been  patented 
in  all  the  countries  of  Europe,  as  well  as  in  the  United 
States.  According  to  the  specifications,  it  would  seem  that 
the  rational  method  of  neutralizing  lime  in  hides  and  skins 
would  be  by  the  use  of  a  cids,  sulphuric  acid  and  others. 
Yet  in  practice  it  has  been  found  that  free  sulphuric  acid 
is  not  a  suitable  means  of  liberating  the  lime  from  hides 
and  skins  on  account  of  its  caustic  properties.  It  has 
been  found,  however,  that  the  sulfonic  acids  of  the  cresols, 
all  of  which  form  soluble  lime  salts,  may  be  employed  in 
tanning  as  a  bate  for  freeing  the  hides  and  skins  from  lime, 
first  because  in  these  acids  the  caustic  properties  of  the  free 
sulphuric  acid  are  neutralized,  and  also  because  they 
possess  more  or  less  antiseptic  and  albumen  coagulating 
properties,  thus  preserving  the  skins  before  and  during 
tanning.  A  solution  of  cresol  sulfonic  acid  with  water  in 
the  proportions  of  one  to  five  hundred  is  advantageously 
employed.  Into  this  solution  the  skins  are  placed  at  a 
temperature  of  about  ninety  degrees  Fah.  and  allowed  to 
remain  from  one  to  two  hours,  according  to  their  weight, 
the  solution  being  agitated  by  suitable  means  during  this 
time.  After  this  operation  all  lime  will  be  found  to  have 
been  extracted  from  the  skins.  When  freeing  skins  from 
lime  which  possess  their  full  amount  of  it,  a  mixture  of 
the  cresol  sulfonic  acid  with  varying  quantities  of  free  sul- 
phuric acid  can  be  advantageously  employed.  The  free 
sulphuric  acid  will  act  first  upon  the  lime  upon  the  surface 
or  upper  layer  of  the  skin  so  as  to  form  gypsum  ;  and  this 

( 252 ) 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  BATING. 


253 


is  afterwards  rinsed  off  the  skin  by  the  subsequent  treat- 
ment. Not  until  this  neutralization  of  the  free  sulphuric 
acid  has  taken  place  will  the  sulfonic  acid  be  able  to  act  on 
the  lime  in  the  lower  layer  of  the  skins  so  as  to  entirely 
dissolve  the  same.  After  the  skin  or  hide  has  been  freed 
from  the  lime,  the  swelling  process  may  take  place  in  a 
fresh  solution  of  sulfonic  acid  and  water  in  the  proportions 
of  one  to  five  hundred,  which  is  necessary  for  the  purpose 
of  preparing  sole-leather.  As  the  sulfonic  acids,  on  account 
of  their  marked  properties  of  coagulating  albumen,  exert 
no  dissolving  effect  on  the  substance  of  the  hides  or  skins 
themselves,  this  treatment  gives  a  very  favorable  result  in 
respect  of  weight.  Owing  to  the  entire  removal  of  the  lime 
from  the  body  of  the  skins,  and  owing  to  the  sterilizing  and 
hardening  of  the  tissues  which  take  place  during  the  opera- 
tion, the  leather  obtained  attains  great  strength  and  has  a 
soft  grain  and  light  color. 

The  cresol  sulfonic  acids  are  obtained  in  great  quantities 
as  by-products  in  the  manufacture  of  carbolic  acid.  By 
treating  them  with  sulphuric  acid  they  are  readily  changed 
into  acids  that  have  proven  themselves  excellent  materials 
for  neutralizing  lime  in  hides  and  skins. 

The  bate  is  obtained  directly  from  crude  cresol  by  mix- 
ing a  given  quantity  of  the  same  with  two  or  three  times 
the  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid  and  heating  the  mixture  for 
several  days  in  the  water-bath  and  then  adding  sufficient 
water  and  allowing  it  to  stand  until  the  gummy  impurities 
are  separated  and  the  pure  solution  obtained.  The  anti- 
septic property  of  cresol  sulfonic  acid  is  so  considerable  that 
the  bating  liquor  may  be  permitted  to  stand  for  several 
weeks  without  deteriorating  in  quality  or  decomposing.  For 
this  reason  the  same  liquor  can  be  used  by  addition  of  new 
quantities  of  cresol  sulfonic  acid  for  a  number  of  operations. 
The  bating  liquor  has  only  then  to  be  replaced  by  an  en- 
tirely new  liquor  when  impurities  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties are  collected  in  the  same. 


254 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


With  the  same  results  the  waste  products  of  the  manu- 
fac'ture  of  carbolic  acid  can  be  used,  as  these  consist  mainly 
of  cresols,  and  the  so-called  crude  carbolic  acid  can  also  be 
used. 

After  the  removal  of  the  lime  and  cleaning  the  hides,  it 
is  necessary  to  produce  the  swelling  of  the  same,  which  is 
obtained  by  placing  the  hides  in  a  liquor  formed  in  the 
proportion  of  one  to  one  thousand  of  a  cresol  sulfonic  acid 
in  water  and  leaving  the  hides  for  about  twenty-four  hours 
in  this  liquor ;  but  even  if  the  hides  remained  longer  in 
the  swelling  liquor  they  would  not  be  injured.  The 
swelling  of  the  hides  can  be  accomplished  with  a  solu- 
tion of  sulfonic  acid  which  is  entirely  free  from  or  which  is 
mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  free  sulphuric  acid. 

Generally  speaking,  the  proportion  of  free  sulphuric  acid 
to  the  sulfonic  acid  solution  has  to  be  adapted  to  the  nature 
of  the  skins,  and  to  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  to  be  used. 

Patented  by  W.  Dieterle,  Feuerbach,  Germany. 

A  process  of  bating 

By  which  the  objects  aimed  at  are  accomplished  by  the  use 
of  a  compound  solution  of  sulphuric  acid,  borax  and  glauber 
salt  has  also  been  made  the  subject  of  a  patent.  In  apply- 
ing this  process,  the  hides  or  skins,  after  liming,  are  placed 
in  a  vat  or  other  suitable  apparatus  containing  a  solution  of 
three  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid,  three  pounds  of  borax  and 
three  pounds  of  glauber  salt,  these  ingredients  being  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  about  five  or  six  barrels  of  water,  or 
sufficient  water  to  cover  one  hundred  and  fifty  hides  or 
skins.  After  being  placed  in  this  solution,  if  they  are  not 
agitated  in  any  manner,  the  hides  or  skins  should  remain 
in  the  solution  about  thirty-six  hours,  but  if  the  solution 
and  the  hides  or  skins  are  in  a  tank  provided  with  a  wheel 
for  stirring,  then  about  five  hours  will  be  sufficient  for  the 
action  of  the  solution. 

After  the  treatment  of  the  hides  in  the  solution  above 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  BATING. 


255 


•described,  they  are  then  placed  for  a  second  treatment  in 
an  ordinary  bark  liquor,  to  which  are  added  about  three 
pounds  of  muriatic  acid,  and  about  fifty  pounds  of  common 
salt.  The  quantity  of  bark  liquor  to  which  the  above  in- 
gredients are  added  is  about  one  thousand  gallons  of  six 
degrees  Be.  The  addition  of  the  muriatic  acid  and  salt 
to  the  bark  liquor  serves  to  precipitate  all  foreign  sub- 
stances in  the  liquor,  and  to  prevent  any  fermentation 
thereof,  and  the  action  of  the  ingredients  in  the  solution  so 
formed  is  to  soften  and  render  the  hides  soaked  therein 
more  plump. 

This  method  of  treatment  of  the  hides  in  a  solution  of 
water,  sulphuric  acid,  borax  and  glauber  salt  for  neutralizing 
the  lime  in  the  hides  may  be  practiced  without  treating 
them  to  the  solution  of  bark  liquor,  muriatic  acid  and  salt ; 
and  also  the  hides  may  be  treated  to  the  action  of  the  latter 
solution  without  submitting  them  to  the  action  of  the  first 
named  liquor  for  the  purpose  of  neutralizing  the  lime. 
N.  Wilson,  Becket,  Mass.,  has  patented  the  above  process. 

Bating  ivith  potatoes  and  yeast. 

Among  the  various  methods  recommended  by  those  who 
have  made  the  process  of  bating  and  preparing  the  skins 
for  tanning  a  special  study  is  a  process  by  which  the  bating, 
drenching  and  cleansing  of  the  stock  are  accomplished  by 
the  use  of  a  bath  of  potatoes  and  yeast.  This  method  of 
bating  depends  also  for  its  efficacy  upon  the  fermentation 
that  is  developed.  It  is  very  cleanly  and  free  from  all 
obnoxious  odor.  In  using  this  method  of  bating  and 
drenching  the  skins  are  removed  from  the  liming  process 
and  unhaired,  fleshed  and  washed  in  warm  water  in  the 
usual  way.  The  bath  to  which  they  are  subjected  is  made 
up  of  potatoes  and  yeast.  A  sufficient  quantity  of  potatoes 
are  boiled  until  they  are  soft,  and  are  then  mashed  fine, 
after  which  they  are  stirred  into  warm  water.  The  skins 
are  placed  in  the  mixture  and  as  much  yeast  as  may  be 


256 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


necessary  is  added,  the  proper  ratio  being  about  one  quart 
of  yeast  and  one  bushel  of  potatoes  in  two  hundred  and 
fifty  gallons  of  water  to  five  hundred  skins.  The  fermenta- 
tion is  allowed  to  take  place  while  the  skins  are  being 
treated.  The  length  of  time  consumed  by  the  process  is 
about  twelve  hours,  and  at  the  end  of  this  time  the  skins 
will  be  ready  for  slating.  After  being  slated,  the  skins  are 
placed  in  the  same  bath  and  kept  therein  for  another  twelve 
hours,  being  thus  brought  into  proper  condition  for  tanning. 
By  this  method  of  treatment  the  skins  are  made  soft,  tough 
and  elastic  and  are  free  from  all  odor.  This  treatment  also 
renders  the  usual  treatment  with  bran  unnecessary  ;  the 
fine  hairs  are  readily  removed  and  all  the  lime  is  drawn 
from  the  pores,  leaving  the  skins  clean  and  soft.  Patented 
by  William  Oetlingler,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Another  prepared  bate 

That  has  been  used  successfully  in  practice  is  the  Norris 
New  Solid  Bate.  This  bate  depends  for  its  efficacy  upon 
the  fermentation  developed.  One  pound  of  this  bate  is 
sufficient  for  a  pack  of  hides,  forty-two  seventy  pound  hides, 
seventy  thirty-five  pound  hides  or  thirty  ninety  pound 
hides,  one  hundred  nine  pound  calf-skins  or  two  hundred 
and  forty  sheep-skins.  It  is  used  in  this  manner :  Take  a 
clean  barrel,  remove  the  head  and  place  in  close  proximity 
to  bate  vats.  From  the  package  shave  with  a  knife  the 
desired  quantity  into  a  pailful  of  warm  water.  Stir  until 
dissolved.  Pour  this  into  the  barrel,  which  has  been  filled 
about  half  full  of  warm  water,  stir  well  and  allow  it  to 
stand  at  least  twenty-four  hours.  Dip  out  nearl}^  all  the 
contents  of  the  barrel  and  pour  into  the  warm  water  of  the 
bating  vat,  stir  well  and  put  in  the  hides  or  skins  which 
have  been  washed  after  unhairing.  When  the  hides  or 
skins  are  removed  from  the  bating  vat,  nearly  all  but  not 
quite  all  of  the  old  liquor  should  be  run  off.  For  the  first 
pack  use  double  the  regular  quantity  of  bate.    All  bates 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  BATING. 


257 


work  best  in  pools  or  tubs  in  which  there  is  a  wheel. 
Many  puresmen  do  not  run  off  the  liquor,  but  freshen  it  up 
from  day  to  day  with  new  bate.  If  this  is  done,  the  con- 
tents of  the  bating  vat  should  be  well  stirred  up  and  about 
one-third  drawn  off  €very  day  and  warm  water  and  fresh 
bate  added.  In  this  way  the  same  solution  can  be  used  for 
several  weeks. 

As  it  is  sometimes  difficult  to  obtain  the  best  results  with 
the  first  pack,  it  is  well  to  dissolve  a  package  of  bate  in  a 
half  barrel  of  water  (90°)  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place 
about  a  week  before  using.  Stock  which  has  been  unhaired 
by  sulphide  of  sodium  or  red  arsenic,  used  in  connection 
with  lime,  should  be  very  thoroughly  washed  before  going 
into  the  bate.  A  small  quantity  of  sal  ammoniac,  one-half 
pound  for  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock,  can  be  advantage- 
ously added  to  the  water  in  which  such  stock  is  washed 
previous  to  bating.  New  Solid  Bate  is  made  and  sold  by 
W.  N.  Norris,  Princeton,  N.  J, 

Bating  with  naphthaline  sulphuric  acids. 

In  this  process  of  bating,  there  are  employed  in  the  treat- 
ment of  hides  or  skins,  as  a  means  of  accomplishing  the 
neutralization  of  the  lime  and  alkali  sulphides  used  in 
depilating,  the  sulphonic  acids  of  naphthaline.  The  hides 
or  skins  are  immersed  in  a  warm  or  cold  solution  of  the 
acid  of  sufficient  strength  or  of  more  than  sufficient  strength 
for  the  conversion  of  the  alkali  into  its  salts.  The  length 
of  time  the  hides  or  skins  are  subjected  to  the  action  of  the 
acid  varies  with  different  kinds  of  stock.  For  best  results 
it  is  desirable  to  use  the  acid  as  pure  as  possible ;  but  good 
results  may  be  obtained  even  if  the  acid  contains  some  of 
the  impurities  incident  to  its  manufacture,  such  as  free  sul- 
phuric or  muriatic  acid  and  salts  of  both,  together  with 
traces  of  the  naphthaline  sulphuric  acid  salts  or  traces  of 
metals  arising  from  the  apparatus  in  which  the  acid  is  made. 

The  naphthaline  sulphuric  acids  are  best  employed  in  a 
17 


258 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


solution  varying  from  two  to  five  per  cent,  in  strength, 
although  it  may  be  used  very  much  weaker  or  stronger.  If 
weaker,  its  action  is  much  slower,  and  there  is  very  little 
necessity  for  making  it  any  stronger,  the  object  being  to  use 
an  excess  of  from  two  to  four  per  cent,  over  the  amount 
necessary  to  convert  the  alkali  used  as  a  depilatory  and 
contained  in  the  hides  or  skins  at  the  time  of  treatment, 
with  its  naphthaline  sulphonic  acid  salts. 

The  advantages  resulting  from  the  use  of  the  naphthaline 
sulfonic  acids  may  be  briefly  stated  as  follows :  Their 
marked  antiseptic  qualities  which  preserve  the  hides  or 
skins  from  dissolution  or  loss  daring  the  bating  process ; 
the  avoidance  of  the  introduction  of  bacteria  into  the  tan 
solution  or  liquors  which  is  attendant  upon  common 
methods  and  upon  the  use  of  acids  that  induce  decomposi- 
tion ;  their  lack  of  action  upon  the  hide  structure  itself, 
except  as  a  preservative ;  the  extreme  solubility  of  their 
salts ;  their  lack  of  action  with  iron  salts  to  produce  a  dis- 
coloration of  the  solution  ;  by  the  complete  removal  of  the 
alkali  or  alkaline  salts  used  as  a  depilatory  ;  its  action  upon 
the  hides  or  skins  fitting  them  for  rapid  combination  with 
the  tanning  agent  and  effecting  in  the  leather  the  lightest 
color  of  which  the  hides  or  skins  are  capable  of  assuming 
with  the  tanning  agent  used,  and  the  prdouction  of  the 
greatest  weight  of  leather  of  which  the  hides  or  skins  are 
capable  through  the  avoidance  of  loss  of  gelatine.  This 
process  w^as  patented  in  1891  by  Messrs.  C.  S.  Hull  and  P. 
8.  Burns,  of  Boston,  Mass. 

The  use  of  a  coal  tar  hate 

Preserves  the  natural  enamel  on  the  grain  of  the  hides  and 
skins,  so  often  destroyed  by  fermenting  bates,  and  has,  be- 
sides, a  bleaching  effect  on  bark  tannages,  imparting  a  much 
lighter  color  than  would  be  otherwise  obtained.  It  is  very 
simple  and  economical  to  use.  The  skins  are  removed  from 
the  limes  and  unhaired  and  fleshed  and  thoroughly  washed 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  BATING. 


259 


with  water  at  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees  or  there- 
abouts, so  as  to  remove  as  much  of  the  Hme  as  possible. 
If,  during  the  process  of  liming,  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used 
in  combination  with  the  lime,  it  renders  the  lime  more 
soluble  and  therefore  more  easily  removed  with  water. 
The  object  of  washing  the  skins  is  to  cleanse  them  and  to 
partially  bate  them,  thereby  effecting  a  saving  in  the  quan- 
tity of  bate  required.  After  washing,  the  skins  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  on  the  beam,  especially  on  the  grain. 

The  bating  sohition  is  prepared  in  the  proportion  of  from 
one-half  to  one  pound  of  bate  in  one  hundred  gallons  of 
warm  water.  The  bate  should  be  dissolved  in  a  pail  of 
hot  water  of  a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and  forty  de- 
grees. Under  no  circumstances  should  it  be  boiled.  If 
the  hides  or  skins  have  been  treated  as  above  suggested,  one 
pound  of  bate  should  be  sufficient  for  four  hundred  pounds 
of  wet  hide,  washed  from  the  limes.  The  hides  or  skins  are 
placed  in  the  bating  solution  and  stirred  about  for  an 
hour.  They  are  then  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  with 
occasional  stirring  for  some  hours  or  over  night. 

The  length  of  time  that  the  bating  should  continue  de- 
pends upon  the  degree  of  softness  wanted  in  the  leather. 
For  example,  for  sole  leather  fifteen  minutes  is  sufficient ; 
for  satin  leather  thirty  minutes ;  for  glove  leather  four  to 
six  hours,  or  even  longer. 

On  removing  the  skins  from  the  bating  solution  it  is 
sometimes  desirable  for  the  finer  grades  of  leather  to  wash 
them  in  water  and  again  work  them  over  the  beam.  They 
are  then  ready  to  be  placed  in  the  tanning  liquors.  In 
preparing  the  bating  solution  for  the  second  pack,  one-third 
of  the  old  liquor  should  be  drawn  off'  and  replaced  with 
fresh  water ;  then  one-half  the  quantity  of  bate  used  at 
first  should  be  added,  and  this  repeated  for  each  succeeding 
pack. 

When  fresh  white  limes  are  used  toward  the  end  of  the 
liming  process  and  a  manure  bate  is  deemed  necessary  to 


260 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


4:educe  the  harshness  of  the  grain  caused  by  the  fresh  Hme^ 
it  is  very  beneficial  to  give  the  skins  from  the  manure  bate 
a  drench  of  coal  tar  bate,  thereby  arresting  the  bacterial 
action  of  the  manure  bate,  preserving  the  grain,  besides 
cleansing,  bleaching  and  neutralizing  the  skins  preparatory 
to  tanning  them.  Again,  when  it  is  considered  desirable 
to  use  a  manure  bate,  it  is  good  practice  to  treat  the  skins 
first  in  a  solution  of  the  coal  tar  bate  and  then  place  them 
in  the  manure  bate.  By  this  method  of  treatment  the 
destructive  action  of  the  manure  bate  is  arrested  and  the 
risk  of  damage  to  the  grain  lessened.  In  all  cases  where 
the  value  of  the  leather  is  dependent  on  the  quality  and 
perfection  of  the  grain,  this  is  an  important  advantage  to 
gain.  Coal  Tar  Bate  is  made  and  sold  by  The  Martin 
Dennis  Chrome  Tannage  Co.,  Newark,  N.  J. 

An  interesting  patented  process  of  bating 

Is  the  invention  of  Charles  W.  Koch,  of  Milwaukee.  After 
the  hides  or  skins  have  been  thoroughly  washed  and  as  much 
of  the  lime  removed  from  them  as  is  possible,  a  further 
treatment  is  necessary  in  order  to  more  completely  prepare 
the  hides  or  skins  for  tanning  and  to  produce  a  superior 
leather.  To  accomplish  this  object  in  a  simple  manner  and 
without  injury  to  the  hides  or  skins  a  solution  of  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  of  common  salt,  three  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of 
soda  and  three  pounds  of  either  sulphuric  or  muriatic  acid  is 
used.  About  two  hundred  calf-skins  and  about  fifty  hides 
can  be  agitated  in  this  solution  for  about  two  hours.  After 
this  they  are  processed  in  a  second  solution  composed  of  two 
hundred  gallons  of  water,  ten  pounds  of  glauber  salt  and 
sixty  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  or  the  same  quantity 
of  sodium  sulphite  crystals.  In  this  solution  they  should 
be  stirred  about  for  two  hours  or  longer,  after  which  they 
are  ready  for  the  process  of  tanning.  The  above  solutions 
can  be  used  for  a  long  time,  as  they  do  not  ferment  or  de- 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  BATING. 


261 


compose.  They  only  require  strengthening  proportionately, 
as  they  become  weakened,  by  the  addition  of  the  same  in- 
gredients. The  ingredients  of  both  solutions  can  be  com- 
bined in  one  with  good  results. 

For  the  purpose  of  neutralizing  lime  in  hides,  skins  and  glue 
stock,  carbonic  acid  gas  has  been  suggested 

And  a  patent  taken  out  on  the  process.  This  process  may 
be  applied  to  hides  and  skins  intended  to  be  tanned  into 
leather,  but  it  is  really  intended  by  the  inventor  to  apply  it 
to  glue  stock.  The  lime  contained  in  hides  and  skins  and 
glue  stock  is  generally  neutralized  by  subjecting  them  for 
some  time  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  the  neutralizing 
of  the  lime  being  accomplished  by  the  carbonic  acid  gas 
contained  therein.  This  method  of  treatment  is  slow  and 
imperfect.  The  use  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  to  which  hides 
and  skins  are  subjected,  is  said  to  produce  more  or  less 
satisfactory  results.  It  has  been  discovered  that  the 
caustic  lime  contained  in  hides,  skins  and  other  animal 
tissue  may  be  quickly  and  thoroughly  neutralized  by  sub- 
jecting them  while  in  water  to  the  action  of  carbonic  acid 
gas.  The  more  thoroughly  the  hides  and  skins  are  agitated 
in  the  water  to  which  the  carbonic  acid  gas  is  introduced, 
the  shorter  will  be  the  time  necessary  for  the  neutralization 
of  the  caustic  lime  contained  therein,  and  the  more  thor- 
oughly and  perfectly  will  the  process  be  carried  out. 

In  carrying  out  this  process  the  necessary  agitation  of 
the  bath  may  be  produced  in  two  ways,  first  by  forcing  a 
jet  or  jets  of  carbonic  acid  gas  into  the  water  in  which  the 
hides  or  skins  are  contained,  at  such  pressure  as  to  cause  an 
active  agitation  of  the  mass  and  the  consequent  exposure  of 
every  part  of  the  materials  treated  to  the  gas  and  to  the  bath 
of  acidulated  water  ;  and  secondly,  by  providing  the  vessel 
in  which  the  hides  or  skins  are  treated  with  mechanical 
stirrers,  by  which  the  water  and  the  hides  or  skins  con- 
tained therein  are  kept  in  a  state  of  agitation  during  the 


2G2 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


admission  thereto  of  a  jet  or  jets  of  carbonic  acid  gas. 
The  chemical  action  consequent  upon  the  treatment  of  the 
caustic  lime  in  the  skins  with  carbonic  acid  gas  results  in 
the  formation  of  inert  carbonate  of  lime.  Various  mechan- 
ical devices  may  be  employed  to  carry  out  this  invention. 
The  inventor  of  this  process,  Chas.  W.  Cooper,  of  Brooklyn, 
New  York,  has  also  invented  a  form  of  apparatus  to  be 
used  in  applying  the  process.  By  the  use  of  the  apparatus 
better  results  are  obtained  than  by  any  other  means.  How- 
ever, it  has  been  found  possible  and  practicable  to  neutralize 
the  caustic  lime  contained  in  the  substances  treated  by  in- 
troducing a  sufficient  volume  of  carbonic  acid  gas  to  a 
vessel  containing  water  and  skins  to  actively  agitate  the 
mass.  The  essential  feature  of  this  invention  is  the  treat- 
ment of  hides,  skins  or  other  animal  substances  containing 
lime  in  water,  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  whereby  a  proper 
distribution  of  the  gas  and  its  application  and  contact  for 
a  sufficient  time  to  and  with  every  part  of  the  material 
are  insured,  and  the  neutralization  of  the  lime  quickly  and 
thoroughly  obtained. 

A  process  of  hating  in  which  bichromate  of  potash  is  used 

Has  been  made  the  subject  of  a  patent  by  Henry  Schlegel, 
of  Lapeer,  Mich.  In  practical  work  this  bath  is  used  in 
the  following  manner :  After  unhairing,  the  hides  are 
washed  in  a  wash-wheel,  then  a  vat  is  filled  with  the  quan- 
tity of  water  required,  after  which  the  bate-wheel  is  started 
up,  and  with  a  steam  ejector  the  liquor  is  warmed  up  to  80 
degrees  Fah.  The  ejector  is  fixed  so  that  the  hides  cannot 
get  near  the  end  of  suction  or  discharge  pipe,  and  while  the 
water  is  getting  warm  the  necessary  amount  of  bate  is  dis- 
solved in  hot  water  and  poured  into  the  bate  vat.  After 
the  bate  has  been  put  in,  the  hides  are  run  in  the  liquor  for 
a  short  time  and  then  left  in  the  same,  over  night  or  longer, 
depending  upon  their  condition.  Then  they  are  fine- 
haired,  again  washed  in  warm  water  and  are  read}^  for 


PATENTED  PROCESSES  OF  BATING. 


263 


tanning.  About  two  ounces  of  the  bate  are  used  for  two 
thousand  pounds  of  green  salted  hides  or  skins. 

The  gist  of  this  process  lies  in  the  employment  of  a 
chromium  compound  as  a  base.  The  chromium  compound 
mixes  with  the  lime  and  causes  the  same  to  be  readily 
washed  out. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER. 
BEAM-HOUSE  PROCESSES. 

Calf-skins  are  tanned  into  leather  and  finished  in 
various  ways.  Large  numbers  are  made  into  chrome 
leather  and  finished  in  smooth  and  boarded,  black  and 
colored.  In  addition  to  the  chrome  processes,  different 
vegetable  processes  are  used.  Gambler  and  similar  soft 
tannages  are  frequently  used.  Leather  tanned  by  any  of 
these  methods  is  finished  upon  the  grain.  Wax  calf  and 
satin  leather  are  finished  upon  the  flesh  or  inner  side. 
Skins  that  are  imperfect  upon  the  grain  by  reason  of 
scratches  and  breaks  are  worked  very  satisfactorily  into 
wax  leather,  the  quality  of  the  grain  in  this  class  of  leather 
counting  for  nothing.  Calf-skins  are  also  made  into  glove 
leather,  also  into  leather  for  lining  purposes  and  into  fancy 
leather.  For  glove-leather  chrome,  oil,  napa  and  other  soft 
tannages  are  used,  while  upon  skins  intended  for  special 
and  fancy  leather,  vegetable  processes  are  used.  Of  all 
skins,  calf-skins  are  the  most  difficult  to  tan.  This  is  be- 
cause they  have  not  attained  maturity  and  full  strength  of 
fibre.  They  require  very  careful  handling,  being  very 
easily  injured  by  carelessness  or  abuse.  The  details  of  the 
process  must  be  watched  and  carefully  carried  out.  Many 
imperfections  met  with  on  finished  calf-skins  are  the  direct 
result  of  ignorance,  carelessness  or  abuse  in  some  part  of 
the  work.  To  meet  with  success  in  the  making  of  calf 
leather  requires  much  skill  and  judgment,  and  these  are 
only  acquired  by  application,  study  and  experience. 

During  the  processes  of  preparing  the  skins  for  tanning, 

(264) 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER.  265 

much  of  the  quality  of  the  finished  leather  is  decided  by 
the  methods  and  materials  used  in  these  processes. 

Grading  and  Classification  of  Green  Calf -Shins. 

Green  calf-skins  are  graded  and  classified  in  the  following 
manner  by  one  of  the  largest  calf-skin  dealers  in  this 
country.    They  are  first  graded  as  to  qualities,  viz.: 

First,  drawn  or  fisted  off".  These  are  skins  that  are  per- 
fect in  every  respect,  fresh,  clean,  free  from  scars  and  other 
imperfections  and  in  choice  condition.  No  deep  scars  are 
allowed  on  the  bodies  of  these  skins,  although  slight  knife 
marks  are  permissible.  If  the  hair  slips  on  a  spot  no  larger 
than  a  silver  quarter  dollar,  the  skin  drops  down  into  a  No.  2. 

Second,  regular  No.  1.  These  are  clean,  fresh  skins  that 
have  been  properly  taken  off  with  knives.  Scores  are 
allowed  in  this  grade,  bilt  there  must  be  no  holes,  hair  slips 
or  other  bad  imperfections.  An  old  salt-stained  skin,  even 
though  it  has  no  holes  nor  hair  slips,  is  not  allowed  in  this 
grade,  but  is  put  into  No.  2. 

Third,  good  No.  2.  This  term  designates  those  skins 
that  are  slightly  hair  slipped.  In  this  grade  are  also  in- 
cluded those  skins  that  have  one,  but  not  more  than  one 
hole  in  the  body  of  the  skin,  and  all  old  or  salt-stained 
skins,  even  though  they  have  neither  holes  nor  hair  slips. 

Fourth,  proof  No.  2.  This  class  of  skins  are  those  that 
have  more  than  one  and  less  than  five  holes  in  them  ;  also 
those  that  are  badly  hair-slipped  or  otherwise  badly  injured. 

Fifth,  culls.  A  cull  is  a  skin  that  has  five  holes  or  more 
in  the  body  of  the  skin,  or  one  badly  damaged  by  reason  of 
moths,  ticks,  taint  or  other  serious  imperfections. 

There  is  another  still  lower  grade  of  skins,  which  is 
called  ''glues."  These  skins  are  practically  worthless  for 
purposes  of  tanning  into  leather,  and  are  always  bought  and 
sold  on  terms  agreed  upon  according  to  their  valuation. 

After  the  skins  are  graded  according  to  quality,  they  are 
subdivided  to  weights,  viz.: 


266 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


First,  what  are  known  as  deacon  or  dairy  skins.  These 
are  skins  taken  from  calves  whose  meat  is  not  used  for  food. 
They  weigh  in  the  green  untrimmed  condition  below  seven 
and  one-half  pounds.  This  classification  also  includes 
trimmed  veal  skins  weighing  under  five  pounds. 

Second,  five  to  seven  pound  trimmed  veal  skins.  This 
classification  also  includes  a  deacon  or  dairy  skin  weighing, 
green  and  untrimmed,  seven  and  one-half  pounds  and  above. 

Third,  seven  to  nine  pound  veal  skins. 

Fourth,  nine  to  twelve  pound  veal  skins. 

Fifth,  twelve  to  seventeen  pound  veal  kip. 

Sixth,  kips  weighing  from  seventeen  pounds  up. 

These  are  the  grades  and  classifications  into  which  the 
skins  are  sorted  when  they  are  received  at  the  warehouse  of 
the  dealer.  Skins  are  sold  in  these  grades  to  tanners, 
although  all  dealers  do  not  strictly  follow  these  classifica- 
tions. When  skins  are  carefully  graded  as  to  quality  and 
weight,  and  the  characteristics  of  each  grade  are  well  known 
to  the  tanner,  he  can  buy  the  class  of  skins  that  is  especially 
adapted  to  his  particular  needs. 

Slunks  are  skins  taken  from  still-born  calves.  They  are 
very  light  and  tender  skins,  and  have  a  very  fine  clear 
grain.  They  are  usually  sold  by  the  piece,  the  price  per 
skin  being  determined  by  the  quality  of  the  skins. 

Large  numbers  of  calf-skins  are  imported  into  the  United 
States  from  foreign  countries  in  both  green  salted  and  dry 
condition.  The  green  salted  skins  are  used  for  the  same 
classes  of  leather  as  domestic  skins,  while  many  of  the  dried 
skins,  owing  to  many  scratches  and  breaks  in  the  grain,  are 
valueless  for  leather  finished  upon  the  grain,  and  must  be 
worked  into  wax  and  similar  leathers. 

Soaking  Process. 

During  the  soaking  process  it  is  necessary  that  all  the 
salt,  dirt  and  other  objectionable  substances  be  gotten  rid 
of,  as  this  has  much  to  do  with  bright,  clear-grained  leather. 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER.  267 

Then,  too,  it  is  advisable  to  accomplish  ihese  results  in  as 
short  a  time  as  possible,  and  not  to  carry  the  soaking  beyond 
a  certain  point.  Soaking  for  a  long  time  results  in  loose 
and  lifeless  leather,  lacking  in  fullness  and  plumpness^ 
owing  to  the  loss  of  gelatine  which  it  is  important  should 
be  left  in  the  skins.  In  order  to  accomplish  clean,  rapid 
and  thorough  soaking  the  salted  skins  should  be  soaked  in 
clean,  fresh  water.  When  they  are  heavily  salted  or  very 
dirty,  a  good  practice  is  to  soak  the  skins  for  a  few  hours  in 
clean  water,  then  to  withdraw  them  from  the  vat,  and  after 
allowing  them  to  drain  until  the  dirty  salty  water  is 
drained  off,  to  soak  them  a  few  hours  longer  in  clean  water. 
Ordinarily  no  change  of  water  is  required,  if  clean  water  is 
used.  The  length  of  time  consumed  by  the  soaking  pro- 
cess depends  upon  the  thickness  and  condition  of  the  skins, 
and  no  arbitrary  rule  can  be  followed  nor  is  it  necessary. 
Ordinary  salted  skins  can  be  soaked  in  ten  hours.  They 
may  be  soaked  longer  though  without  injury,  say  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  hours,  and  some  tanners  soak  these  skins 
for  twenty-four  hours. 

While  the  salt  used  upon  the  raw  skin  acts  as  a  preserva- 
tive, upon  becoming  dissolved  in  the  water  it  has  an  injur- 
ious effect  upon  the  stock,  frequently  causing  the  leather  to 
be  soft  and  lacking  in  fullness,  and  at  the  same  time  to 
show  a  clouded  and  streaked  grain.  Old  stale  soaks  in 
which  large  quantities  of  dirt,  blood  and  salt  have  become 
dissolved  are  risky  and  unpleasant  to  use,  clean,  fresh  soaks 
producing  the  best  results.  The  putrefaction  which  fre- 
quently sets  in,  in  old  soaks,  sometimes  aff"ects  the  skins  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  impair  their  quality,  although  many 
times  the  condition  is  not  noticed  at  the  time,  and  later  no 
one  can  tell  what  caused  it.  It  is  not  best  to  put  a  mixed 
lot  of  skins  into  the  soaking  process.  In  other  words  the 
skins  should  be  sorted  and  only  those  of  like  nature  and 
size  soaked  together.  This  is  a  good  rule  to  follow  in  all 
leather-making  processes,  the  sorcing  of  the  skins  before 


268 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


putting  them  through  any  process,  assisting  greatly  in 
getting  uniform  results. 

A  good  method  of  soaking  salted  skins 
Is  to  wash  them  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  to  put  them 
into  the  soak  water  for  a  number  of  hours,  ranging  from 
ten  to  twenty-four,  according  to  their  thickness  and  condi- 
tion. Dried  calfskins  of  course  require  longer  and  more 
thorough  soaking  in  order  to  get  them  soft  enough  to  go 
into  the  liming  process.  Such  skins  when  carefully  handled 
result  in  very  nice  leather,  although  the  grain  is  more  or 
less  afflicted  with  cracks  and  other  imperfections.  Sulphide 
of  sodium  may  be  added  to  the  water  in  which  dry  skins 
are  soaked,  in  quantity  sufficient  to  enable  the  skins  to  be- 
come soft  in  from  thirty-six  to  forty-eight  hours.  After  the 
skins  have  become  partially  softened  they  may  be  removed 
from  the  water,  worked  mechanically  and  then  resoaked 
until  they  are  thoroughly  softened.  It  is  not  advisable  to 
pass  these  skins  along  into  the  unhairing  process  until  they 
have  become  soft  and  clean.  Both  green  and  dry  skins 
after  soaking  should  be  drained,  and  the  dirty  water  allowed 
to  run  off  before  they  are  unhaired.  They  uiust  be  kept 
from  heating,  as  heating  even  in  a  slight  degree  results  in 
more  or  less  injury  to  the  skins,  which  no  subsequent  treat- 
ment can  remedy  or  cure. 

Borax  also  produces  good  results  when  it  is  used  in  the 
soaking  process.  When  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used  from 
one-sixteenth  to  one-eighth  of  an  ounce  is  enough  for  each 
skin,  dissolved  in  warm  water  and  poured  into  the  water  in 
the  soak  vats.  When  borax  is  used  from  three  to  five 
pounds  may  be  dissolved  and  added  to  each  one  thousand 
gallons  of  water.  The  borax  helps  in  getting  a  smooth  soft 
grain,  and  at  the  same  time  keeps  the  soak  water  fresh  and 
sweet.  Fresh  water  should  be  used  for  every  pack  of  skins, 
as  when  this  is  done,  bright,  clear  leather  results,  although 
ma,ny  tanners  use  soaks  over  and  over  until  they  become 
stale  and  foul. 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER.  269 

In  the  preparation  of  calfskins  for  any  chrome  process, 
the  essential  thing  to  be  accomplished  is  the  keeping  of  the 
substance  of  the  skins  intact,  so  as  to  result  in  plump 
leather.  To  soak  the  skins  for  too  long  a  time  or  to  lime 
them  too  long  results  in  soft,  thin  and  lifeless  leather.  As 
there  are  little  plumping  or  filling  qualities  in  chrome 
processes  it  is  especially  important  that  the  loss  of  skin  sub- 
stance be  guarded  against ;  more  so  for  this  class  of  tanning 
than  for  any  other. 

A  joopular  process  of  preparing  calfskins  for  tanning  by  chrome 

methods, 

Removal  of  the  hair  and  swelling  of  the  skin-fibres,  is  by 
the  use  of  arsenic  limes.  This  method  of  depilating  and 
preparing  the  skins  results  in  soft  and  elastic  leather,  fairly 
plump  and  with  a  fine,  smooth  grain.  After  the  skins 
come  from  the  soaks  and  are  drained,  they  are,  by  some 
tanners,  fastened  into  a  long  chain,  and  entered  into  the 
liming  process,  and  by  the  aid  of  the  reels  passed  from  one 
lime  vat  to  another.  Much  labor  of  handling  the  skins  is 
saved  in  this  way.  The  best  results  follow  when  the  skins 
are  started  in  a  weak  lime  liquor  and  this  liquor  strength- 
ened each  day  until  it  becomes  strong  or  the  skins  are  passed 
into  stronger  lime  liquors  each  day.  When  the  skins  are 
limed  too  rapidly  the  grain  often  becomes  loose  from  the 
flesh,  the  strength  of  the  leather  impoverished  and  trouble 
met  with  in  the  processes  of  tanning  and  finishing.  When 
an  old  lime  liquor  is  to  be  had,  the  strength  at  the  begin- 
ning should  be  about  5°  Twaddle.  Into  this  lime  the 
skins  are  placed  and  allowed  to  remain  therein  for  a  few 
days  until  they  become  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the 
liquor,  then  the  strength  of  the  liquor  should  be  increased 
or  else  the  skins  hauled  out,  drained  off,  and  entered  into  a 
stronger  lime.  By  this  way  of  preparing  the  skins,  they 
are  made  soft  and  pliable,  the  fine  hairs  readily  come  out 
and  the  grain  is  not  injured.  Calfskins  should  be  left  in  a 
strong  lime  as  short  a  time  as  possible. 


♦ 


270 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Preparing  the  Limes. 
The  rules  followed  in  preparing  the  limes  vary.  Man}' 
tanners  follow  no  rule,  but  work  according  to  judgment, 
relying  solely  upon  it  to  tell  them  when  the  skins  are 
limed  enough.    When  old  lime  liquors  are  to  be  had,  a 
good  starting  lime  may  be  prepared  by  using  two-thirds  old 
liquor  and  one-third  new,  that  is  of  six  hundred  gallons  in 
the  vat  four  hundred  gallons  are  old  lime  liquor  and  two 
hundred  are  new  and  fresh  liquor.    This  may  be  strength- 
ened each  day  by  the  addition  of  new  lime  and  arsenic,  or 
the  skins,  after  being  in  this  weak  liquor  for  two  or  thrpe 
days,  may  be  passed  into  stronger  limes  until  they  are  suffi- 
ciently swollen  to  enable  the  workman  readily  to  remove  the 
hair.    In  preparing  a  new  lime  about  one  hundred  pounds 
of  lime  are  slacked  with  about  twelve  pails  of  hot  water. 
To  this  quantity  of  lime  from  five  to  ten  pounds  of  red  arse- 
nic are  added.    The  arsenic  should  be  dissolved  separately 
and  then  added  to  the  slacked  lime.    Both  materials  need 
to  be  thoroughly  dissolved  before  coming  in  contact  with  the 
skins.    The  quantities  of  arsenic  and  lime  mentioned  are 
enough  for  six  hundred  calfskins  to  begin  with.    After  the 
skins  have  been  in  the  liquor  one  day  they  should  be  hauled 
out  and  the  lime  well  stirred  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  vat. 
If  the  skins  are  allowed  to  drain  before  going  back  into  the 
lime  they  will  take  up  the  lime  more  readily.    When  pad- 
dle vats  are  used  the  hauling  out  is  not  necessary,  although 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  the  lime  stirred  up  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vat.    On  the  third  day  the  lime  should  be 
strengthened  by  the  addition  of  fresh  lime  and  arsenic.  If 
the  strength  for  the  first  day  or  two  should  prove  too  strong 
and  the  grain  show  any  injury,  less  lime  should  be  used  for 
the  next  lot  of  skins.    Considerable  judgment  is  necessary 
in  preparing  calfskins,  as  they  are  young  and  tender  skins 
and  need  to  be  handled  carefully.    It  is  wise  to  strengthen 
the  lime  liquor  each  day  by  the  addition  of  two  or  three 
pails  of  slacked  lime,  until  the  hair  becomes  loosened,  and 

i^ 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER.  271 

after  the  hair  starts  it  is  wise  to  let  the  skins  lie  in  the 
liquor  for  two  or  three  days  longer,  as  this  not  only  causes 
the  hair  to  come  off  more  readily  and  cleanly  but  makes 
the  leather  softer.  The  liming  will  be  accomplished  in 
about  five  days,  if  paddle  vats  are  used,  but  this  must  be 
left  to  the  judgment  of  the  workman.  When  the  skins  are 
left  two  or  three  days  in  an  old  weak  liquor,  five  days  in  a 
strong  liquor  are  generally  sufficient,  although  much  de- 
pends upon  the  thickness  of  the  skins,  temperature  of  the 
limes  and  the  time  of  the  year.  Less  time  is  required  in 
the  summer  than  in  the  winter.  It  is  not  good  practice  to 
lime  the  skins  from  the  start  in  strong  limes.  The  better 
way  is  to  allow  the  skins  to  lie  for  a  day  or  two  in  an  old 
weak  liquor  and  when  they  have  become  thoroughly  im- 
pregnated with  the  solution  to  place  them  in  the  strong 
limes,  for  five  or  six  days.  In  this  way  the  grain  is  left 
smooth  and  fine  and  the  fibres  are  not  loosened.  The  re- 
moval of  the  hair  may  be  done  by  hand  or  machinery, 
after  which  the  skins  are  washed,  slated  on  the  machine 
and  the  grain  cleaned,  and  are  then  ready  for  the  bating 
and  drenching. 

Sulphide  of  sodium  is  used  in  much  the  same  manner  as  the 

red  arsenic. 

It  is  mixed  with  the  lime  either  before  or  after  slacking, 
and  forms  with  the  lime  a  very  satisfactory  process  by 
the  use  of  which  the  time  of  liming  is  considerably  short- 
ened, the  grain  kept  smooth  and  the  lime  made  more  solu- 
ble and  therefore  more  easily  removed  before  tanning. 
A  very  common  method  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium  is 
to  mix  it  with  the  lime  in  the  same  manner  as  described 
for  red  arsenic.  Usually  about  one-half  as  much  sulphide 
of  sodium  as  of  lime  is  used,  and  the  skins  entered  into  a 
weak  lime,  left  therein  one  day,  pulled  out  and  the  lime 
strengthened.  This  is  repeated  for  six  or  eight  days,  when, 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the  skins  and  the  strength  of 


272 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  liquor,  the  skins  will  be  sufficiently  swollen  to  enable 
the  tanner  readily  to  remove  the  hair. 

The  sulphide  of  sodium  may  also  he  used  in  other  ways 
With  good  results.  One  of  these  ways  is  to  prepare  a  solu- 
tion of  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  in  a  vat,  using  about 
twice  as  much  sulphide  of  sodium  as  lime.  The  strength 
may  range  from  two  to  five  degrees  Beau  me.  Into  this  liquor 
the  skins  are  placed  and  stirred  about  occasionally.  At  the 
end  of  the  first  day  the  strength  may  be  increased  by  adding 
more  lime  and  sulphide,  and  at  the  end  of  two  or  three 
days  the  hair  will  be  dissolved  and  the  skins  can  then  be 
washed,  and  limed  for  about  four  days  longer.  When  it  is 
desired  to  save  the  hair  and  at  the  same  time  prepare  the 
skins  in  a  very  short  time,  they  may  be  painted  upon  the 
flesh  side  with  a  solution  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  lime. 
This  procedure  produces  good  results,  although  it  is  not  in 
general  use.  About  one-half  barrel  of  lime  may  be  used  to 
fifty  gallons  of  water.  The  lime  should  be  completely  re- 
duced to  milk  of  lime  with  hot  water  and  thoroughly 
stirred  from  the  time  the  lime  and  water  are  put  together 
until  all  the  lime  is  dissolved.  No  particles  of  unslaked 
lime  should  be  left  in  the  mixture.  The  solution  should 
be  allowed  to  cool  and  used  at  the  consistency  of  thin 
paste.  About  six  pails  of  this  lime  should  be  mixed  with 
a  barrel  of  sulphide  of  sodium  liquor  of  a  strength  of 
eighteen  degrees  Be.  After  the  skins  have  been  soaked 
they  should  be  well  drained,  then  spread  upon  a  smooth 
surface  and  the  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium 
applied  to  the  flesh  side  with  a  vegetable  brush.  Enough 
of  the  liquor  should  be  put  on  to  cover  the  skins  with- 
out running  ofl".  After  treatment  the  skins  are  folded 
once  and  placed  in  piles  until  the  next  day.  The  skins 
swell  very  rapidly,  and  usually  the  hair  starts  in  a  few 
hours.  However,  it  is  best  not  to  unhair  the  skins  until 
the  next  day,  when  the  hair  can  be  readily  removed  with  a 
dull  instrument  or  stick.    After  unhairing  the  skins  should 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER.  273 

be  immersed  in  cold  water,  in  whicli  tliey  will  be  kept  from 
drying  and  spoiling.  A  liming  in  clean  rather  weak  limes 
for  from  four  to  six  days  will  finish  the  process,  and  the 
skins  may  then  be  bated  or  drenched  and  tanned.  This 
method  of  treating  the  skins  requires  more  labor  than  the 
others  that  have  been  described,  but  results  in  good  plump 
leather,  and  if  the  hair  is  to  be  saved  it  may  be  washed  and 
spread  out  and  dried.  The  skins  must  not  be  allowed  to 
heat  in  summer  and  not  to  freeze  in  winter.  Whenever 
the  hair  comes  off  with  difficulty  the  skin  should  be  re- 
painted, so  as  to  avoid  straining  the  grain.  After  the  hair 
has  been  removed,  the  skins  require  further  swelling,  v^hich 
the  liming  accomplishes.  The  first  lime  into  which  the 
skins  are  placed  may  be  liquor  that  has  been  nsed  before, 
and  if  it  is  rather  strong,  about  one-half  of  the  liquor  may 
be  run  out  and  replaced  with  water,  or  a  lime  may  be  made 
new  by  putting  about  two  buckets  of  lime  into  the  required 
quantity  of  water  for  two  to  three  hundred  skins,  according 
to  their  size.  The  skins  may  be  left  in  this  lime  from  one 
day  until  the  next,  and  then  if  still  vats  are  used,  they 
should  be  hauled  out  and  two  more  buckets  of  lime  added. 
On  the  third  day  more  lime  should  be  added,  and  in  from 
four  to  six  days  the  skins  wdll  be  prepared  for  bating. 
The  thickness  of  the  skins  has  much  to  do  with  the  time 
required  to  lime  them,  and  also  the  degree  of  softness 
wanted  in  the  leather.  Skins  intended  for  a  one-bath  pro- 
cess of  tanning  usually  require  a  trifle  more  lime  than  skins 
to  be  tanned  in  acid  baths,  as  the  latter  split  up  the  fibres 
of  the  skins,  which  the  one-bath  processes  do  not  do. 

BATING  PROCESSES  AS  APPLIED  TO  CALFSKINS. 

The  bran  drench  has  been  in  use  for  a  great  many  years, 
and  while  it  is  somewhat  uncertain  and  unpleasant  to  use, 
it  is  to  be  preferred  to  manure  puring  or  bating.  It  is 
used  by  many  tanners  of  calfskins,  and  w^hen  properly  used 
produces  soft,  clear  skins  that  work  into  desirable  leather. 
18 


274 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  best  bran  to  use  is  the  finer  grade,  as  it  contains  more 
flour  than  the  coarse  grades.  A  method  of  using  the  bran 
drench  is  carried  out  as  follows  :  For  a  pack  of  skins  rang- 
ing in  number  from  three  hundred  to  four  hundred,  one- 
half  of  a  barrel  of  bran  is  mixed  with  enough  water  to 
make  a  thick  mush.  This  is  allowed  to  stand  forty-eight 
hours,  or  until  it  becomes  sour.  Warm  water  hastens  the 
souring.  When  the  bran  is  thoroughly  sour  it  is  emptied 
into  the  water  in  the  drenching  vat.  To  the  drench  are 
added  three  pints  of  sulphuric  acid  and  three  pecks  of  com- 
mon salt,  and  the  entire  mixture  stirred  together,  and  the 
temperature  raised  to  ninety  degrees.  A  paddling  in  this 
•drench  for  from  four  to  five  hours  is  generally  sufficient  for 
light  and  medium  weight  skins,  heavy  skins  requiring 
longer  time.  This  drench  reduces  the  skins  to  a  very  soft 
and  slippery  condition,  and  thoroughl}^  cleanses  them  of  all 
lime.  The  usual  working  or  slating  may  be  given  the 
skins,  after  which  they  may  be  washed  off  in  warm  water 
and  are  ready  for  tanning.  The  important  points  to  be 
observed  in  the  use  of  the  bran  drench  are  that  the  fer- 
mentation is  fully  developed  ;  that  the  skins  are  kept  well 
opened  out  and  constantly,  or  at  least  frequently,  stirred 
about,  and  the  temperature  of  the  liquor  no  higher  than 
ninety  degrees. 

As  soon  as  the  skins  settle  to  the  bottom  and  remain 
there  they  should  be  removed  without  delay,  as  to  leave 
them  in  longer  results  in  injury  to  the  stock.  When  the 
bran  is  not  allowed  to  thoroughly  ferment  before  use,  or  the 
liquor  is  used  too  hot  or  for  too  long  a  time,  the  grain  of 
the  skins  becomes  rough  and  raised,  and  the  stock  thus 
seriously  damaged.  Considerable  skill  and  judgment  are 
required  in  handling  the  bran  drench  to  get  the  right 
results,  and  when  trouble  is  encountered,  carelessness  or 
ignorance  is  generally  the  cause.  No  matter  what 
method  of  depilating  and  swelling  the  skins  is  used,  after 
the  process  is  completed  the  skins  require  to  be  thoroughly 


THE  manufacturp:  of  calf-skin  leather.  275 

fine-haired,  and  washed  in  warm  water  to  accomplish  the 
removal  of  much  of  the  lime.  The  more  thoroughly  the 
skins  are  cleansed  with  warm  water,  the  less  bating  and 
drenching  are  required.  Soft,  pliable  leather  cannot  be 
made  until  the  skins  are  properly  prepared  to  receive  the 
tannage,  by  being  thoroughly  washed,  cleansed  and  re- 
duced from  their  plump  and  swollen  condition  acquired 
during  liming  to  one  of  softness  and  neutrality. 

Very  good  results  follow  the  use  of  lactic  acid 

Upon  calf-skins  intended  for  chrome  tanning.  This  mater- 
ial readily  dissolves  the  lime  in  the  skins,  and  at  the  same 
time  leaves  them  with  considerable  plumpness,  two  very 
important  points  in  making  chrome  leather.  After  washing 
in  warm  water  the  skins  are  placed  in  a  drench  prepared  as 
follows :  One  hundred  gallons  of  water  are  heated  to  a  tem- 
perature of  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  degrees  Fah.  To 
this  is  added  one  gallon  of  lactic  acid.  The  quantity  of  acid 
necessary  varies  according  to  the  condition  of  the  skins. 
One  gallon  of  acid  to  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  is  the 
maximum  quantity.  Much  less  may  in  many  instances  be 
used  and  still  the  right  results  be  obtained.  When  the 
drench  is  warm,  the  lime  is  readily  dissolved  and  the  skins 
become  soft  and  thin.  In  a  cold  drench  they  remain  full 
and  plump,  although  the  lime  becomes  dissolved  also.  A 
paddle-vat  should  be  used  for  this  process,  and  the  skins 
stirred  about  constantly.  After  being  in  the  liquor  for  two 
hours  the  skins  will  be  sufficiently  drenched  to  receive  the 
usual  beam-work  or  slating.  Calfskins  treated  with  lactic 
acid  stand  much  more  working  than  those  treated  by 
any  other  process  of  drenching.  After  the  slating  or  the 
beam-work  the  skins  should  be  put  back  into  another 
drench  somewhat  weaker  than  the  first,  say  two  quarts  of 
acid  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  water,  and  stirred  about 
therein  for  one  hour  in  order  to  further  cleanse  them,  and 
to  remove  any  dirt  acquired  during  the  beam-work  or  slat- 


276 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


iiig.  If  the  skins  are  to  be  pickled  before  they  are  tanned 
they  may  go  at  once  into  the  pickle  from  the  second  drench 
without  further  washing,  while  if  they  are  to  be  tanned  in 
a  two-bath  process,  and  not  pickled,  they  may  be  washed 
off  in  warm  water  and  are  then  ready  for  the  tanning  proc- 
ess. When  one  pack  of  skins  follows  another,  the  drench 
liquor  can  be  used  over  and  over  by  being  strengthened  for 
each  lot  of  skins,  by  adding  one-half  the  quantity  of  acid 
first  put  in.  This  applies  to  the  first  drench.  The  second 
may  be  kept  sufficiently  strong  with  acid  by  the  addition 
of  less  than  one-half  the  first  quantity  put  in,  but  this  must 
be  decided  by  the  w^orkman.  Sometimes  one  lot  of  skins 
requires  more  acid  than  others,  and  the  operator  must  use 
judgment.  The  use  of  more  acid  than  is  actually  required 
will  not  injure  the  skins  ;  it  is  merely  wasted. 

Drenchiiig  in  a  pin-will  drum. 
While  the  paddle-vat  method  of  drenching  is  the  best  that 
can  be  used,  the  skins  can  also  be  drenched  in  a  pin-mill 
drurn.  When  this  is  done  one  pound  of  acid  is  required  for 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  in  enough  warm  w^ater  to 
enable  the  skins  to  drum  nicely.  The  skins  should  not  be 
drummed  longer  than  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  re- 
moved from  the  drum,  given  the  beam-work  or  slating, 
washed  in  another  drench  and  are  then  ready  for  pickling, 
or  if  they  are  not  to  be  pickled,  they  are  washed  after  the 
second  drenching  and  are  then  ready  for  tanning. 

Advantages  of  lactic  acid. 
The  use  of  lactic  acid  for  this  purpose  is  to  be  recommended, 
because  it  is  safe,  cleap  and  cleanly.  There  is  no  objection- 
able smell  to  the  process  or  to  the  skins,  no  danger  of  injur- 
ing the  leather  and  by  using  the  liquor  over  and  over  by 
strengthening  it  up  for  each  lot  of  skins  great  economy  can 
be  achieved.  The  drench  is  also  readily  prepared,  requir- 
ing only  a  few  moments,  and  after  it  is  prepared  and  the 
skins  put  in  no  attention  at  all  is  required  until  the  time 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CALF-SKIN  LEATHER.  277 

to  remove  the  skins  from  the  drench.  These  points  all 
recommend  lactic  acid  for  deliming  calfskins. 

AnotJier  method  of  using  bran 

For  deliming  the  skins,  is  to  use  about  two  hundred 
pounds  of  bran  for  each  five  hundred  skins  of  medium 
size.  The  bran  should  be  allowed  to  ferment  before  it  is 
used,  and  to  accomplish  this  it  should  be  cooked  or  at 
least  mixed  with  hot  water,  to  which  a  cake  of  yeast  or 
a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid  has  been  added.  A 
pailful  of  old  sour  liquor  will  also  hasten  the  bran  to  turn 
sour.  One-half  of  the  bran  is  mixed  in  the  required 
volume  of  water,  stirred  well  and  then  one-half  of  the  skins 
are  put  in,  then  the  balance  of  the  bran  is  added  and  the 
remaining  skins.  The  skins  should  be  put  in  as  quickly  as 
possible  in  order  to  have  them  get  a  uniform  degree  of  heat. 
This  is  best  accomplished  by  having  the  skins  in  piles 
along  the  edge  of  the  vat,  and  several  men  detailed  to  do 
the  work.  The  stirring  of  the  drench  is  a  matter  of  some 
importance,  in  order  that  all  lumps  of  dough  may  be 
broken  up.  The  bran  sometimes  forms  lumps  of  dough 
which  retain  the  heat,  and  when  these  break  up  in  contact 
with  the  skins  the  heat  causes  small,  hard  burn-spots  to 
appear,  which  are  objectionable. 

Calfskins  intended  for  any  chrome  process  require  careful 
bating  and  drenching.  It  is  important  that  the  paddle-vats 
in  w^hich  the  process  is  carried  out  are  sufficiently  large  to 
allow  considerable  floating  and  turning  in  the  liquor.  If 
the  vat  is  too  small  for  the  lot  of  skins  they  will  turn 
around  in  bunches  and  get  unevenly  drenched. 

MANURE  BATING. 

When  manures  are  used  upon  calfskins,  the  process  is 
carried  only  to  the  point  where  the  lime  becomes  thoroughly 
dissolved.  Then  the  skins  are  taken  from. the  manure  pure 
or  bate  and  drenched  in  a  lactic  acid  bath  for  a  short  time 


278 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  they  are  then  ready  for  tanning.  The  use  of  manures 
cannot  be  recommended,  as  they  are  dangerous  and  uncer- 
tain as  well  as  unpleasant  in  the  extreme.  Some  tanners, 
however,  continue  to  use  them  in  spite  of  their  disagreeable 
features  and  the  fact  that  their  use  can  be  dispensed  with 
entirely  and  newer  and  better  articles  used  in  their  place. 
A  good  method  of  using  manures  for  bating  is  to  leave  the 
skins  in  the  bate  liquor  simply  long  enough  to  dissolve  the 
lime.  If  the  process  is  carried  further  than  this  some  of 
the  substance  of  the  skins  becomes  dissolved,  and  the  leather 
lacks  fullness  and  plumpness.  A  bating  in  a  warm  manure 
bath  for  two  or  three  hours  is  generally  sufficient  to  accom- 
plish the  object  aimed  at.  Then  the  skins  should  be 
drenched  in  a  warm  bath  of  lactic  acid,  slated,  washed  off 
and  are  then  ready  for  the  process  of  tanning.  The  slating 
or  working  of  the  grain  of  the  skins  is  an  important  part  of 
the  beamhouse  work,  as  it  removes  all  hair  roots,  dissolved 
lime  and  fine  hairs.  After  the  final  washing  the  skins 
should  be  drained  well  and  then  weighed  for  tanning. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 

Calfskins  may  be  tanned  with  the  two-bath  acid  process 
in  two  ways.  For  the  first  bath  may  be  used  ten  pounds 
of  salt  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  dissolved  in  fif- 
teen gallons  of  water.  The  skins  may  be  drummed  in  this 
salt  solution  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  may  be  added 
two  pounds  of  muriatic  acid  for  every  hundred  pounds  of 
skins.  This  acid  should  be  diluted  with  water  and  given 
gradually  to  the  skins,  and  the  drumming  continued  for 
fifteen  minutes.  The  pickling  in  acid  and  salt  serves  to 
open  and  plump  the  skins  and  to  keep  them  smooth  during 
tanning.  Before  the  chrome  liquor  is  applied  the  acid 
liquor  should  be  drained  off.  Then  the  following  bath  is 
prepared  :  Into  twelve  gallons  of  warm  water  dissolve  two 
pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  for  every  hundred  pounds 
of  skins.  This  should  be  used  cold  and  the  skins  drummed 
in  the  same  for  thirty  minutes.  Then  the  strength  of  the 
chrome  bath  may  be  increased  by  the  addition  of  four 
pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  two  to  three  pounds  of 
common  salt,  dissolved  in  fifteen  gallons  of  water,  for  every 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  This  liquor  is  given  to  the 
skins  through  the  hollow  gudgeon  of  the  drum  and  thq 
skins  milled  therein  in  three  to  four  hours  or  until  they  are 
well  penetrated  with  the  yellow  liquor  and  thoroughly  sea- 
soned with  it.  Then  they  are  taken  from  the  drum  and 
thrown  over  horses  and  allowed  to  drain  over  night. 

The  skins  can  also  be  tanned  by  being  drummed  in  the  follow- 
ing solution  for  the  first  bath: 
Twelve  gallons  of  water  to  which  are  added  in  solution  five 

(279) 


280 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


pounds  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  two  and  one-half  pounds 
of  muriatic  acid.  A  few  pounds  of  salt  may  also  be  added. 
The  skins  are  taken  after  the  final  washing  and  without 
pickling  are  placed  in  the  drum  with  this  chrome  solution 
and  drummed  in  it  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  enable 
the  yellow  liquor  to  penetrate  the  thickest  skin.  In  place  of 
bichromate  of  potash  and  muriatic  acid,  chromic  acid  may 
be  used.  This  is  a  red  powder,  and  when  it  is  used  it  is  not 
necessary  to  add  any  muriatic  acid.  The  same  quantity  of 
chromic  acid  is  used  as  is  commonly  used  of  bichromate  of 
potash.  When  the  first  bath  contains  too  much  acid  the  skins 
swell  very  rapidly  until  they  look  like  pieces  of  India  rubber. 
The  presence  of  salt  in  the  liquor  prevents  this  swelling  and 
also  hastens  the  process.  The  yellow  chrome  liquor  must 
penetrate  through  every  fibre  of  the  thickest  skin  before  the 
skins  are  removed.  Carelessness  in  this  respect  results  in 
poor  leather.  When  the  first  bath  is  completed  the  skins 
are  removed  from  the  drum,  struck  out  on  the  machine,  or 
in  order  to  save  labor  pressed  out,  to  remove  the  surplus 
liquor  from  them,  and  are  then  allow^ed  to  press  and  drain 
for  some  hours  or  over  night,  after  which  they  may  be  en- 
tered into  the  second  bath.  The  first  bath  may  also  be  ap- 
plied to  the  skins  in  a  vat,  although  a  drum  is  generally 
preferred.  The  quantities  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  acid 
may  vary.  Sometimes  more  than  the  above-mentioned 
quantities  are  used,  but  always  one-half  the  quantity  of 
chromic  acid  should  be  used. 

The  various  methods  of  tannmg  goat-shins  with  one-hath,  iwocess 
may  he  applied  in  the  same  manner  to  calf -skins. 

When  the  skins  are  taken  from  the  tanning  liquors,  no 
matter  whether  the  two-bath  or  a  one-bath  process  has  been 
used,  they  are  full  of  the  tanning  materials.  When  tanned 
by  a  one-bath  process,  the  skins  are  full  of  common  salt, 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  the  salts  taken  up  from  the  tanning 
liquors  ;  when  some  two-bath  process  has  been  used,  the 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 


281 


leather  is  full  of  corrosive  acids,  which  when  left  in  the 
stock  cause  serious  damage  to  it.  These  foreign  materials 
must  be  gotten  rid  of  and  the  leather  perfectly  neutralized 
before  successful  coloring  and  finishing  can  be  attained. 
The  skins  are  therefore  subjected  to  a  very  thorough  process 
of  washing.  The  first  water  in  which  they  are  washed  may 
be  a  borax  solution — one-half  pound  of  borax  dissolved  and 
added  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock  as  weighed 
before  trimming.  In  this  water  the  leather  is  washed  for 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes  or  longer,  according  to  the  process 
of  tanning  that  was  used.  Skins  full  of  sulphurous  acid 
need  to  be  washed  in  borax  water  from  thirty  minutes  to 
one  hour.  After  the  washing  in  borax  water  the  skins  are 
washed  for  twenty  minutes  in  clear  running  water.  By 
this  procedure  the  skins  are  thoroughly  cleansed  and  put  in 
suitable  condition  for  coloring  and  finishing. 

Striking  out,  pressing  and  shaving  tJie  shins. 

When  the  washing  is  completed,  the  skins  may  be  struck 
out  on  machines  or  pressed  or  struck  out  by  hand  on  smooth 
tables  in  order  to  remove  all  the  surplus  water  from  them. 
The  striking  out  on  the  machine  also  smoothes  out  the  skins, 
removes  wrinkles  and  slightly  increases  their  size.  Pressing 
the  skins  removes  the  water  but  does  not  affect  the  wrinkles 
in  their  skin  and  does  not  leave  the  skins  smooth.  After 
being  struck  out  or  pressed  the  skins  are  shaved,  and 
during  the  shaving  they  must  be  kept  from  all  stain  and 
grease,  as  the  leather  in  this  condition  absorbs  stain  and 
grease  readily,  which  interferes  with  the  coloring  and 
finishing.  By  shaving,  the  skins  are  made  of  a  uniform 
thickness,  and  the  flesh  side  becomes  clean  and  smooth,  a 
very  necessary  condition  when  the  leather  is  to  receive  a 
glazed  finish. 

BLACK  CHROME-TANNED  CALFSKINS. 

The  flesh  side  of  black  chrome  leather  is  usually  dyed  a 


282 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


blue  or  purple  color  previous  to  blacking  the  grain  side. 
The  blue  back  improves  the  general  appearance  of  the 
leather  and  also  serves  as  a  bottom  or  foundation  for  the 
black.  For  this  purpose  solutions  of  logwood  and  borax  or 
sal-soda,  blue  nigrosines  and  purple  aniline  dyes  are  gener- 
ally used.  The  use  of  logwood  chips  has  been  somewhat 
displaced  during  the  last  few  years  by  the  use  of  logwood 
in  extract  and  powder  form.  The  results  that  follow  the  use 
of  these  articles  are  better  than  the  results  obtained  from, 
the  use  of  even  the  best  grades  of  chips,  since  the  extracts 
and  powders  are  always  uniform  in  strength  and  quality. 
Logwood  paste  is  a  very  excellent  form  of  logwood,  the  only 
objectionable  feature  being  that  when  the  paste  is  once 
frozen  the  color  produced  is  not  at  all  satisfactory,  being  a 
muddy  grey-black.  The  powdered  products  of  logwood  can- 
not be  frozen  and  are  consequently  always  of  equal  strength 
in  cold  and  warm  weather.  When  logwood  paste  is  used 
from  six  to  eight  pounds  are  dissolved  in  warm  water  with 
two  pounds  of  borax  or  sal-soda,  and  brought  to  the  boiling 
point.  This  liquor  is  sufficiently  strong  for  all  purposes,, 
and  should  it  prove  s-tronger  than  is  required  it  can  readily 
be  weakened  by  the  addition  of  water.  This  solution  may 
be  used  for  staining  the  flesh  blue  or  purple  by  slightly 
increasing  the  quantity  of  sal-soda  or  of  borax  and  by  add- 
ing to  it  a  small  quantity  of  blue  or  black  aniline.  The 
latter  articles  may  be  omitted.  They  serve  merely  to 
change  the  color  from  blue  to  purple.  When  Hemolin,  a 
powdered  product  of  logwood  is  used,  about  five  pounds  of 
the  dye  and  two  pounds  of  either  borax  or  sal-soda,  boiled 
for  a  few  minutes  in  fifty  gallons  of  water,  give  a  satis- 
factory liquor  for  both  flesh  coloring  and  grain  blacking. 
When  used  for  flesh  coloring  ten  gallons  of  the  liquor  may 
be  taken  for  each  hundred  pounds  of  leather,  weighed  after 
it  has  been  shaved.  The  skins  are  drummed  in  the  liquor 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  or  until  the  color  is  well  taken 
up  and  developed,  then  they  are  washed  off,  struck  out  or 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 


283 


pressed  again,  and  are  ready  for  the  fat-liquor.  Or  instead 
of  this,  the  skins  may  be  taken  from  the  drum  and  spread 
on  a  table  and  a  striker  or  iron  liquor  applied  over  the 
grain.  This  leaves  the  flesh  blue  and  the  grain  black.  Or 
the  skins  may  be  passed  through  a  blacking  machine  or 
through  dye  boxes,  and  the  color  changed  to  black  in  this 
way.  When  this  is  done,  the  quantity  of  hemolin  or  log- 
wood liquor  needs  to  be  increased  to  twenty  gallons  for  each 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins. 

A  very  desirable  blue  flesh  is  obtained  from  the  use  of  blue 
nigrosine. 

For  each  dozen  skins  of  medium  size,  three  ounces  of 
the  nigrosine  are  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  in  two  or  three 
gallons  of  water.  This  liquor  is  used  at  a  temperature  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees,  and  the  skins  drummed 
in  it  for  thirty  minutes,  then  they  are  rinsed  off,  struck  out 
or  pressed  and  are  then  fat-liquored  and  then  blacked  upon 
the  grain.  When  the  leather  is  insufficiently  washed  after 
tanning,  the  blue  color  will  not  penetrate  as  it  should. 

A  good  staining  liquor  may  also  be  made  of  the  following 
ingredients  : 

Three  ounces  purple  aniline  dye  and  two  ounces  of  black 
nigrosine  or  of  black  aniline  are  dissolved  by  boiling  in 
two  gallons  of  water.  This  solution  is  mixed  with  twenty 
gallons  of  logwood  liquor  and  used  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed for  blue  nigrosine.  About  ten  gallons  of  this  liquor 
will  stain  one  hundred  pounds  of  leather,  and  produce  a 
dark  bluish  purple.  It  has  one  objectionable  feature,  how- 
ever, and  that  is  the  liability  to  crack  off  in  handling. 
This  is  not  liable  to  occur  when  the  leather  has  been  pre- 
viously mordanted  with  some  extract  containing  tannin. 

TJte  most  simple  and.  easily  prepared  stain 
Is  a  solution  of  logwood  and  borax  or  sal-soda,  made  up  of 
one  pound  of  powdered  logwood  and  a  few  ounces  of  borax 


284 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


orsal-soda,  boiled  in  ten  gallons  of  water  for  each  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  leather,  weighed  after  shaving.  This  stain 
penetrates  freely  and  makes  the  flesh  a  desirable  bluish- 
purple. 

Practice  in  staining,  fat-liquoring  and  dyeing  calf -skins. 

Some  tanners  of  calfskins  stain  and  fat-liquor  their  skins 
at  one  operation  ;  others  stain,  fat-liquor  and  grain  black 
them.  The  preferred  method,  however,  is  to  first  stain 
them,  then  to  fat-liquor  them,  and  after  fat-liquoring  to  dye 
the  grain  black.  The  next  process,  therefore,  is  the  fat- 
liquoring.  By  this  process  the  leather  is  nourished  with 
grease  and  rendered  soft  and  strong.  The  quality  of  the 
finished  leather  depends  largely  upon  the  quality  of  the 
materials  used  in  making  the  fat-liquor  and  upon  how  the 
process  is  carried  out.  While  it  is  very  important  that  the 
skins  are  properly  treated  in  the  beam-house  processes,  and 
thoroughly  tanned,  it  is  equally  essential  that  the  leather 
is  skillfully  curried  in  order  that  it  may  take  the  desired 
finish  and  be  free  from  gum  and  grease.  Tanners  fre- 
quently succeed  very  well  in  making  chrome  leather  up  to 
the  point  of  greasing  it,  and  then  fail  or  at  least  encounter 
trouble. 

In  order  that  the  finished  leather  may  be  soft  and  dry, 
nothing  can  be  used  as  a  fat-liquor  that  will  make  it  greasy 
or  gummy,  as  such  condition  seriously  damages  the  leather 
and  interferes  with  the  processes  of  finishing.  The  heavy 
oils  and  greases  used  by  the  currier  of  bark-tanned  leather 
when  applied  to  chrome  leather  produce  very  unsatisfactory 
results.  Chrome  leather  does  not  need  nor  will  it  absorb 
and  carry  so  much  grease  as  bark  leather.  The  grease  must 
be  given  to  the  leather  in  the  form  of  a  thoroughly  blended 
emulsion,  all  ingredients  of  which  must  be  incorporated 
with  the  other  ingredients,  in  order  that  the  results  will  be 
uniform  and  satisfactory.  Amadous  materials  may  be  used 
in  making  fat-liquors,  but  as  a  general  thing  potash  soaps 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROxME  PKOCESSES. 


285 


and  oils  are  used.  These  are  thoroughly  emulsified,  and 
other  articles  are  added,  such  as  degras  and  egg  yolk  accord- 
ing to  the  class  of  leather  being  made.  The  fat-liquor  is 
used  warm  and  drummed  into  the  leather  by  means  of  a 
pin-mill  drum.  A  drumming  for  thirty  minutes  is  usually 
sufficient  to  enable  the  leather  to  absorb  all  the  grease. 

Light  calf-skins  intended  for  glazed,  dull  or  boarded  finish  may 
be  fat-liquored  with  the  following  emulsion: 

Ten  pounds  of  potash  soft  soap  are  placed  in  a  barrel  with 
ten  gallons  of  water.  Steam  is  turned  in  and  the  soap 
boiled  until  it  is  all  dissolved.  Four  gallons  of  neatsfoot 
oil  are  cut  wdth  a  few  ounces  of  potash,  sal-soda  or  borax, 
dissolved  in  a  little  water  and  mixed  into  the  oil.  Then 
the  oil  is  poured  into  the  soap  solution  in  the  barrel 
and  the  two  articles,  soap  and  oil,  are  thoroughly  stirred 
together.  Sufficient  water  is  run  in  to  make  a  total  of  forty 
gallons  of  fat-liquor,  and  when  the  temperature  of  the 
liquor  has  been  reduced  to  less  than  one  hundred  degrees, 
ten  pounds  of  egg  yolk  are  added.  The  fat-liquor  is  then 
thoroughly  stirred  and  applied  to  the  skins  at  a  temperature 
of  ninety  degrees  F.  The  egg  yolk  should  never  be  added 
until  the  temperature  of  the  liquor  has  been  lowered  con- 
siderably from  boiling  point.  For  a  common  quality  of 
leather  the  egg  yolk  may  be  omitted,  as  good  results  are 
obtained  from  the  mixture  of  oil  and  soap. 

For  heavy  calf -skins 

Ten  pounds  of  Moellon  Degras  may  be  added  to  the  so- 
lution of  oil  and  soap,  and  the  egg  yolk  omitted.  A  good 
fat-liquor  is  also  made  of  forty  pounds  English  sod  oil 
and  twenty  pounds  alkaline  soft  soap,  boiled  and  emul- 
sified as  above  described,  and  enough  water  then  run  in 
to  make  fifty  gallons  of  fat-liquor.  When  no  egg  yolk  is 
used,  the  fat-liquor  may  be  used  at  a  temperature  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  forty  degrees. 


286 


PRACTICAL  TANNING, 


The  hotter  it  is,  the  more  readily  and  uniformly  it  will 
penetrate  the  leather,  provided  the  leather  is  free  from  sur- 
plus water,  and  no  acids  nor  tanning  materials  are  left  in 
the  skins.  When  the  blue  color  has  not  penetrated  as  it 
should,  it  is  sometimes  an  advantage  to  add  a  small  quan- 
tity of  color  to  the  fat-liquor  which  will  be  carried  through 
the  skins.. 

After  the  leather  has  been  flesh  colored,  the  skins  should 
be  struck  out  on  the  machine  or  pressed  to  get  rid  of 
surplus  water  and  then  fat-liquored.  A  suitable  stuffing 
drum  is  heated  with  live  steam  to  a  temperature  of  about 
one  hundred  and  forty  degrees.  Then  the  steam  is  let  out 
of  the  drnm  and  the  condensed  water  is  drained  out,  the 
leather  thrown  in,  the  drum  closed  and  run  for  a  few  min- 
utes to  warm  the  leather.  The  fat-liquor  is  then  added 
through  the  hollow  gudgeon  of  the  drum,  one  or  two 
gallons  at  a  time,  until  the  whole  quantity  required  is 
in,  then  the  leather  should  be  drummed  in  the  fat-liquor 
for  at  least  thirty  minutes,  or  until  it  has  taken  up  all  the 
grease,  and  nothing  but  water  is  left  behind. 

The  quantity  of  fat-liquor  required  by  a  lot  of  leather 
depends  upon  how  soft  the  leather  is  wanted.  Too  much 
fat-liquor  causes  the  leather  to  work  through  greasy,  spongy 
and  stretchy,  while  not  enough  leaves  it  stiff  and  like  paper. 
Such  leather,  being  insufficiently  nourished,  is  dry  and 
harsh  and  liable  to  crack  and  break.  From  two  to  four 
gallons  of  fat-liquor,  prepared  as  suggested,  are  usually  re- 
quired for  each  dozen  small  light  skins.  Heavy,  large 
skins  require  more. 

At  the  end  of  the  fat-liquoring  process  the  leather  may 
be  removed  from  the  drum  and  thrown  over  horses  or  laid 
out  flat  in  piles  for  some  hours,  in  order  that  the  grease 
may  combine  with  every  fibre.  Then  the  skins  are  grain- 
blacked,  provided  this  has  not  been  done  before  fat- 
liquoring,  as  is  sometimes  the  case.  When  the  grain- 
blacking  is  done  by  hand  or  on  machine  it  should  not,  and 
usually  is  not  done  after  it  has  been  fat-liquored. 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 


287 


The  grain-bJkcking  may  be  done  by  hand  with  brushes 
on  tables,  by  passing  the  skins  through  the  coloring 
machine,  or  by  being  dyed  in  trays  or  dye  boxes.  All  of 
these  methods  are  in  general  use,  the  tray  and  machine 
methods  being  the  most  frequently  employed. 

For  blacking  the  grain, 
Logwood  or  some  product  of  logwood  is  generally  used. 
The  coloring  properties  of  logwood  in  powder  form  are  very 
satisfactory.  A  good  coloring  liquor  is  made  by  boiling 
eight  pounds  of  such  powder  and  two  pounds  of  borax  or 
sal-soda  in  twenty-five  gallons  of  water.  Then  enough 
water  is  added  to  make  forty  gallons  of  dye  liquor.  When 
the  grain-blacking  is  done  on  a  machine  the  skins  are  taken 
after  fat-liquoring  and  run  through  the  machine,  and  the 
dye  liquor  spread  over  and  brushed  into  the  grain,  then 
the  color  is  developed  and  set  by  the  application  of  an  iron 
liquor  or  a  solution  of  copperas. 

In  tray  or  box  dyeing  the  skins  are  folded  through  the 
centre,  grain  side  out  and  worked  through  the  dye  liquor 
and  then  through  the  striker.  The  skins  may  also  be 
drummed  in  logwood  liquor  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  spread 
on  a  table,  and  the  striker  applied  by  hand,  or  they  may 
be  run  through  a  machine  and  the  color  set  in  this  manner. 
A  few  fustic  chips  or  a  small  quantity  of  fustic  extract 
boiled  with  the  dye  intensify  the  black.  It  is  very  impor- 
tant that  the  color  be  well  rubbed  into  the  leather  in  order 
that  the  grain  will  not  show  grey  bottom. 

A  good  striker  may  be  made 
Of  five  pounds  of  copperas  and  one  and  one-half  pounds  of 
blue  vitriol  dissolved  by  boiling  in  a  half  barrel  of  water, 
then  the  barrel  may  be  filled  with  water.  When  used  on  a 
machine  twelve  pounds  of  copperas  and  four  pounds  of  blue 
vitriol  are  used  for  a  barrel  of  water.  To  this  are  added  one 
and  one-half  pounds  of  ground  nutgalls  and  one  pound  of 
epsom  salts  to  each  six  pounds  of  copperas  and  blue  vitriol 


288 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


combined.  When  the  coloring  is  done  on  a  table  a  small 
quantity  of  ammonia  should  be  added  to  each  pailful  of  dye. 
This  is  brushed  into  the  leather,  then  the  striker  is  applied. 
Another  coat  of  dye  is  given  and  more  striker,  then  the 
leather  is  washed  off  and  struck  out. 

A  good  iron  striker 

Is  made  of  three  gallons  of  iron  liquor  and  two  pounds  of 
copperas  dissolved  in  two  quarts  of  vinegar  boiled  for  a 
few  minutes.  In  place  of  verdigris  blue  vitriol  may  be 
used,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  dissolved  in  two  quarts  of 
boiling  water.  The  liquor  should  be  well  stirred  and 
not  used  until  the  next  morning,  when  the  clear  liquor 
may  be  drawn  off  and  diluted  for  use  with  two  or  three 
times  its  volume  of  water.  Trouble  is  often  met  with  in 
getting  a  good  black  color  on  chrome  leather.  This  may 
be  prevented  by  mordanting  the  leather,  after  it  is  washed 
from  the  tanning  liquors,  with  a  solution  of  tannin.  Pal- 
metto extract  is  very  good  to  use  in  this  way,  as  it  leaves 
the  grain  smooth,  and  produces  a  soft  feel  to  the  leather. 
For  three  hundred  pounds  of  chrome  leather  one  and  one- 
half  quarts  of  extract  and  a  small  quantity  of  glycerine 
mixed  with  warm  water  make  an  excellent  mordant. 

After  the  grain  has  been  dyed  black  it  should  be  washed 
off  and  the  leather  struck  out.  Machines  are  commonly 
used  for  this  work.  After  striking  out  an  application  of 
glycerine  and  water  should  be  given  the  grain  of  the  leather, 
equal  parts  of  glycerine  and  water,  put  on  evenly  with  a 
soft  rag  or  a  sponge.  The  leather  may  then  be  struck  out 
again  although  this  is  not  necessary.  Whether  the  leather 
is  struck  out  or  not,  a  coat  of  oil  is  next  applied.  The  oil 
should  be  w^arm  and  applied  with  a  sponge  evenly  over  the 
grain,  in  quantity  according  to  the  condition  of  the  leather 
and  the  degree  of  softness  desired.  Before  this  oil  is  put  on 
the  water  should  be  well  gotten  out  of  the  leather,  so  that 
the  oil  can  the  more  readily  penetrate  into  the  leather, 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 


289 


where  it  will  add  strength  and  softness  to  the  grain.  The 
oil  used  in  this  way  is  the  base  of  the  subsequent  finish  and 
it  behooves  the  tanner  to  use  good  oil.  The  oil  also  helps 
the  black  of  the  leather.  Neatsfoot  oil  is  often  used,  al- 
though other  oils  such  as  a  good  grade  of  cod  oil  and  sperm 
oil  are  commonly  used  and  very  often  preferred  to  neatsfoot. 

After  the  oiling  operation 
The  leather  is  dried  out  in  any  suitable  manner.  The 
skins  may  be  stretched  in  frames,  tacked  on  boards  or 
hung  up  and  dried.  Usually  they  are  stretched  in  frames 
or  on  boards  in  order  that  the  stretch  may  be  taken  out 
and  the  leather  made  flat  and  smooth.  After  the  skins 
become  dry  they  are  packed  down  in  damp  sawdust  to 
moisten  and  soften  them  preparatory  to  being  worked  out 
and  finished.  As  soon  as  the  damp  sawdust  has  softened 
the  skins  they  are  staked  on  the  staking  machine,  and 
dried  again,  staked  once  more  and  then  thoroughly  dried. 
The  leather  is  now  ready  for  the  final  finish.  On  this 
kind  of  leather  three  styles  of  finish  are  wanted — smooth 
glazed,  dull  and  boarded  or  box  finish.  For  a  glazed 
finish  either  smooth  or  boarded,  the  skins  are  cleared  of 
greasy  matter  in  the  grain,  by  a  dilute  solution  of  lactic 
acid,  made  up  of  one  gallon  acid  to  three  or  four  gallons  of 
water.  This  is  thoroughly  rubbed  into  the  grain  and  the 
leather  dried  again,  after  which  the  seasoning  is  applied. 
Some  leather  finishers  prepare  their  seasonings  while  others 
buy  them  already  prepared,  and  thus  save  the  labor  of 
making  them.  In  many  instances  it  is  best  for  the  finisher 
to  buy  seasoning,  as  the  firms  who  make  this  their  specialty 
know  exactly  what  is  required  and  supply  very  superior 
dressings.  Levant  inks  are  generally  used.  They  are  pro- 
curable ready  for  use  and  need  only  dilution  with  water. 

A  seasoning  suitable  for  calf-skins  may  be  made  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  : 

Six  ounces  of  black  nigrosine,  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of 
19 


290 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


water,  to  which  are  added  two  pints  of  blood,  five  ounces 
of  glycerine  and  eight  ounces  of  ammonia.  Logwood 
liquor,  blacked  with  copperas,  may  be  used  in  place  of 
the  nigrosine. 

Another  formula  : 

One  pint  blue-stone,  one-fourth  ounce  iron,  one  pint  logwood, 
one  quart  blood,  one  pint  nigrosine.  The  seasoning  or 
glazing  liquor  should  be  applied  evenly  over  the  grain  and 
thoroughly  rubbed  in.  Hand  work  and  machines  are  used 
for  this  work.  The  less  seasoning  that  is  used  to  produce 
a  clear,  bright  finish,  the  better  it  is,  as  the  leather  so 
treated  stands  handling  better  than  when  a  great  deal  of 
seasoning  is  used.  After  the  seasoning  liquor  becomes  dry, 
the  le^.ther  is  glazed.  A  second  coat  of  seasoning  is  applied 
and  the  drying  and  glazing  repeated.  Sometimes  a  third 
treatment  is  necessary.  Between  the  first  and  second 
glazing  it  is  sometimes  an  advantage  to  apply  a  dilute 
solution  of  lactic  acid  or  of  vinegar  and  bichromate  of 
potash.  This  seems  to  clear  the  bottom  and  to  deepen  the 
black.  The  flesh  side  of  the  skins  is  made  soft  by  scraping 
on  a  machine.  For  smooth,  bright  finish,  the  leather  is 
finally  brushed  over  lightly  with  an  oily  cloth  or  sponge 
and  is  finished,  while  for  boarded  or  box  finish,  the  leather 
is  boarded  both  crosswise  and  lengthwise,  supplemented  in 
some  instances  by  printing  on  a  machine,  and  is  ready  for 
market.  For  dull  or  mat  finish,  a  dull  seasoning  is  applied 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  glazing  liquor,  and  while 
slightly  moist,  the  leather  is  rolled  or  ironed.  Measuring 
and  grading  complete  the  process. 

COLORED  CHROME-TANNED  CALF-SKINS. 

Before  any  attempt  at  coloring  chrome-tanned  calf-skins 
is  made,  they  should  be  thoroughly  washed  and  shaved. 
They  may  then  be  prepared  for  the  desired  shade  of  color 
by  being  slightly  retanned  with  palmetto  extract.  This 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES.  291 

material  neutralizes  any  acid  in  the  skins,  and  makes  the 
grain  tough  and  smooth  and  firm  and  in  good  condition 
without  further  mordanting  to  receive  an  aniline  dye.  A 
practical  method  of  using  the  extract  for  the  purpose  is  to 
treat  the  skins  with  the  extract  liquor  in  a  drum.  The  liquor 
may  be  made  up  of  one  gallon  of  extract  and  one-third  of 
a  pint  of  glycerine  for  one  thousand  pounds  of  leather. 
The  quantity  of  water  necessary  to  properly  drum  the  skins 
is  used  ;  and  the  temperature  of  the  liquor  when  it  is  ap- 
plied to  the  skins  should  be  from  ninety  to  one  hundred 
degrees  Fah.  The  stock  should  be  drummed  in  the  liquor 
for  thirty  minutes,  then  to  the  bath,  without  removing  the 
skins  from  the  drum,  ma}^  be  added  for  each  dozen  skins, 
about  four  ounces  of  tartar  emetic  or  of  antimonine,  dis- 
solved in  one  gallon  of  hot  water,  and  the  drumming  con- 
tinued for  twenty  minutes.  The  use  of  either  of  the  last 
named  articles  is  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  spots  upon 
the  leather,  caused  by  tannin  not  fully  combined  with  it, 
to  clear  the  grain  and  to  act  as  a  settling  agent  for  the  dye. 
The  work  of  mordanting  and  preparing  the  skins  for  color- 
ing may  also  be  done  in  the  paddle-vats  or  reels. 

In  place  of  palmetto,  and  with  equally  good  results,  sumac  may 

be  used, 

In  drums,  about  eight  or  ten  ounces  of  sumac  being  used 
for  each  dozen  small  light  skins.  Large,  heavy  skins 
require  about  one  pound  of  the  extract  for  each  dozen.  Or, 
the  liquor  may  be  made  up  in  a  vat  at  a  temperature  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees,  and  the  skins  paddled  or 
stirred  about  therein  for  one-half  hour  or  longer,  and  then 
treated  with  the  clearing  agent  as  above  suggested,  washed 
off  and  colored. 

The  skins  may  be  prepared  with  sumac  in  this  manner  : 

Two  hundred  pounds  of  leather,  after  washing  and  shaving, 
are  placed  in  a  drum,  with  a  solution  of  sumac  extract 


292 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


made  up  of  eight  pounds  of  extract  scalded  in  six  gallons 
of  hot  water  and  mixed  with  about  sixty  gallons  of  water 
at  a  temperature  of  about  one  hundred  degrees.  The  ex- 
tract liquor  is  divided  into  three  portions,  the  skins  and  the 
first  portion  being  put  into  the  drum  and  drummed  for 
ten  minutes,  then  another  portion  of  the  liquor  is  added, 
and  at  the  end  of  five  minutes  the  last  portion  is  put  into 
the  drum,  and  the  drumming  continued  for  thirty  minutes. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  the  leather  will  have  absorbed  all 
the  tannin.  Then  the  tartar  emetic  may  be  given  to  the 
skins,  and  after  a  further  drumming  for  fifteen  minutes, 
the  spent  liquor  may  be  run  off,  the  skins  washed  in  luke- 
warm water,  and  are  ready  for  the  dye.  Sumac  leaves  may 
be  used  in  place  of  the  extract ;  and  for  dark  shades  a 
liquor  made  up  of  one-third  sumac  and  two-thirds  terra 
japonica  or  gambler  may  be  used. 

The  extract  of  fustic  is  another  excellent  article  to  use  as  a 

mordant. 

It  may  be  used  for  almost  any  shade,  and  makes  a  very 
good  bottom  for  an  aniline  dye.  For  some  dark  shades 
it  may  be  combined  with  a  pure  logwood  liquor.  Morin 
Yellow,  Pat.,  is  a  product  of  fustic,  and  much  to  be 
preferred  over  chip  fustic.  It  is  an  excellent  fastener  of 
aniline  dyes,  and  with  its  use  full  nourished  colors  are  ob- 
tained. The  coloring  of  chrome-tanned  calf-skins  is  best 
accomplished  before  they  are  fat-liquored.  A  , few  necessary 
precautions  to  be  observed  by  the  dyer  are  that  the  skins 
should  be  perfectly  clean  and  free  from  grease,  stain,  dirt 
or  tanning  materials,  such  as  acid  and  salt ;  that  the  dyes 
are  carefully  prepared  by  being  dissolved  in  boiling  water 
and  boiled  a  few  minutes  and  strained  before  they  are  used. 
Also  that  the  drum  and  other  vessels  used  are  perfectly 
clean,  and  the  water  not  only  clean,  but  soft. 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 


293 


The  following  directions  %vill  he  found  of  practical  value  to  any 
one  attempting  to  color  chrome-tanned  calf -skins. 

Any  one  of  the  methods  of  preparing  the  skins  may  be 
used.  After  mordanting  and  cleansing,  the  skins  should  be 
washed  off  and  are  then  ready  for  the  color  solution. 

Chocolate  Brown.  1.  For  one  dozen  medium-size  calf- 
skins, about  seven  ounces  of  aniline  Chocolate  Brown,  270, 
may  be  used.  The  skins  should  be  drummed  in  the  color 
solution  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  washed  off  and  fat- 
liquored. 

2.  At  a  temperature  of  120  degrees,  a  color  solution  may 
be  used,  made  up  of  the  following  dyes  in  the  proportions 
named.  Eight  ounces  of  phosphine  for  leather ;  one-half 
ounce  leather-green  M  ;  two-thirds  of  an  ounce  of  dark 
methyl  violet,  thoroughly  dissolved  and  strained  before 
using. 

3.  By  combining  phosphine  with  leather-brown,  in  the 
proportions  of  one-third  of  the  latter  to  two-thirds  of  the 
former,  a  very  desirable  shade  of  brown  is  obtained. 

In  every  instance,  to  insure  even  coloring,  the  solution  of 
dye  should  be  added  to  the  skins  either  through  the  funnel 
of  the  wheel,  or  the  skins  should  be  thrown  back  upon  the 
pins  and  the  color  put  in  at  the  door.  It  is  always  pro- 
ductive of  the  best  results  to  add  the  dye  in  portions,  allow- 
ing one  portion  to  be  taken  up  before  another  one  is  ap- 
plied. 

Upon  skins  re-tanned  or  mordanted  with  tanning  extracts,  very 
satisfactory  shades  of  dark  wine  color,  commonly  called  ox- 
blood,  may  be  obtained  by  applying  the  following  formulas  : 

1.  The  skins  may  be  run  in  a  solution  of  dye — six  and 
one-half  ounces  of  amaranth  3-R  for  each  dozen  skins  for 
twenty  minutes.  Then  may  be  added  in  the  following 
order,  two  and  one-fourth  ounces  of  amaranth  l-R  and  one 
ounce  of  chocolate  brown,  each  dye  being  dissolved  and 


294 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


given  to  the  skins  separately.  A  dramming  for  one-half 
hour  completes  the  process.  At  the  end  of  the  operation  it 
may  be  well  to  add  one  ounce  of  bichromate  of  potash  five 
minutes  before  stopping  the  drum. 

2.  A  good  shade  of  ox-blood  is  also  obtained  by  using 
from  ten  to  twelve  ounces  of  the  aniline  amaranth  3-R,  for 
each  dozen  skins,  according  to  the  size  of  the  skins.  The 
dye  should  be  dissolved  in  one  gallon  of  boiling  water,  to 
which  a  few  ounces  of  glycerine  may  be  added  ;  and  the 
liquor  then  boiled  until  the  dye  is  completely  dissolved. 
The  solution  should  be  strained  through  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth and  cooled  down  to  about  120  degrees  before  it  is 
applied  to  the  skins.  When  tartar  emetic  is  used,  nothing 
more  is  needed  to  set  the  color.  After  a  drumming  in  the 
dye  for  thirty  minutes,  the  skins  may  be  removed  from  the 
drum,  washed  off  and  fat-liquored. 

3.  By  combining  a  dark  red  aniline  with  a  dark  brown, 
for  instance,  Bismarck  brown,  a  rich  shade  of  ox-blood  re- 
sults. About  one-third  as  much  brown  dye  as  red  dye 
should  be  used.  For  one  dozen  medium  skins,  seven  and 
one-half  ounces  of  the  red,  and  two  and  one-half  ounces  of 
the  brown  may  be  used. 

Light  tan  shades :  1.  Patent  Phosphine  G.  is  an  exceed- 
ingly bright  color,  and  when  used  alone  produces  a  very 
light  yellow  tan  shade. 

2.  By  combining  Patent  Phosphine  G.  with  a  Bismarck 
brown,  a  reddish  tan  is  produced.  Numerous  shades  of 
tan,  ranging  from  very  light  to  dark,  may  be  obtained  by 
combining  the  phosphine  with  browns,  and  also  with  blues 
and  greens,  by  which  the  shades  are  subdued  and  mellowed. 
One  part  leather-brown,  and  four  parts  phosphine  produce 
a  very  desirable  dark  tan. 

Sulfamine  dyes  may  also  be  used  luith  very  satisfactory  results 
upon  chrome-tanned  calf -skins. 

Sulfon  Brown  B.  is  a  very  valuable  dye,  and  by  various 


CALFSKINS  AND  CHROME  PROCESSES. 


295 


combinations  an  almost  unlimited  number  of  shades  are 
made.  By  using,  for  example,  two  and  one-quarter  ounces 
of  Sulfon  Brown  B.,  nine  and  one-half  ounces  of  Sulfon 
Carmine  B.  and  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  hsematine  pow- 
der, in  combined  solution,  a  dark  rich  ox-blood  is  obtained, 
the  quantities  of  dyes  named  being  for  one  dozen  skins. 

Six  ounces  of  Sulfon  Brown  B.,  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  of 
Sulfon  Carmine  B,  and  one  ounce  of  Urania  Blue,  produce 
a  rich  chocolate  brown.  A  shade  a  trifle  lighter  than  the 
foregoing:  Four  ounces  of  Sulfon  Brown  B.,  one  and  one- 
half  ounces  of  Urania  Blue,  one-half  ounce  of  Sulfon  Car- 
mine B.  A  light  chocolate  brown  :  Three  and  one-half 
ounces  of  Sulfon  Brown  B.  and  one  ounce  of  Urania  Blue 
R.  For  an  ox -blood  shade  :  Eleven  ounces  of  Sulfon  Car- 
mine B.,  one-half  ounce  Sulfamine  Yellow  D.  and  three 
ounces  of  Hsematine  Powder.  In  using  these  dyes,  it  is 
generally  good  practice  to  add  to  the  color  solution  a  small 
amount  of  Carbonate  of  Ammonia,  which  makes  the  color 
penetrate  more  quickly,  but  this  should  be  neutralized  after- 
wards with  a  little  acetic  acid.  Immediately  after  dyeing, 
the  skins  should  be  fat-liquored,  and  here  care  must  be  exer- 
cised to  have  the  fat-liquor  perfectly  neutral,  as  the  shades 
are  readily  injured  by  any  excess  of  alkali  in  the  fat-liquor. 
For  fine  light  skins,  an  emulsion  or  mixture  of  egg  yolk 
and  neatsfoot  oil  makes  an  admirable  fat-liquor. 

Fat-liquoring, 

After  the  leather  has  received  the  right  shade  of  color, 
it  should  be  washed  off,  struck  out  or  pressed  and  fat- 
liquored.  For  heavy  skins  a  fat-liquor  may  be  made  of 
soap,  oil  and  degras,  in  proportion  as  follows  :  Ten  pounds 
of  soap  are  boiled  in  a  few  gallons  of  water  until  thor- 
oughly dissolved,  then  four  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  and  six 
pounds  of  degras  are  added  and  the  whole  thoroughly 
emulsified  by  boiling  and  stirring,  then  enough  water  is 
run  in  to  make  forty  gallons  of  liquor.    Very  light  skins 


296 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


may  receive  an  emulsion  of  soap,  oil  and  egg  yolk  in  place 
of  degras.  The  fat-liquoring  and  finishing  of  colored  calf- 
skins is  carried  out  in  the  same  manner  as  upon  black  skins. 
Fancy  shades  should  be  dried  out  in  a  darkened  room,  and 
must  be  kept  clean.  No  black  dyes  or  leather  should  be 
allowed  in  the  same  room  with  light  colored  stock.  Too 
much  care  cannot  be  taken  with  colored  leather. 


I 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


CALF-SKINS.— VEGETABLE  AND  COMBINATION- 
TANNED. 

Palmetto  extract 

Is  a  comparatively  new  tannage,  and  not  so  well  known 
among  tanners  as  the  older  processes.  It  is  a  perfect  sub- 
stitute for  gambler,  and  makes  soft,  tough  leather  of  very 
light  color,  well  adapted  to  finishing  up  into  colored  or 
black  leather.  It  produces  good  results  when  used  in 
drums,  tanning  skins  thoroughly  in  a  few  hours.  The 
skins  for  this  tannage  are  treated  in  the  usual  way  in  the 
beam-house.  They  are  soaked,  fleshed  and  limed.  The 
first  lime  should  be  rather  weak,  and  after  the  skins  have 
been  therein  for  one  day  they  may  be  passed  into  stronger 
limes,  or  the  weak  lime  may  be  strengthened.  At  the  end 
of  four  or  five  days  the  skins  are  placed  in  fresh  lime  made 
up  of  seventy-five  pounds  of  lime  and  five  pounds  of  red 
arsenic  or  sulphide  of  sodium  for  fifteen  hundred  pounds 
of  skins.  Upon  the  sixth  or  seventh  day  the  skins  may 
be  unhaired  and  then  left  a  day  or  two  longer  in  fresh 
lime.  They  are  then  washed,  bated,  worked  on  the  grain, 
washed  off  again,  and  are  ready  for  tanning.  At  the 
beginning  of  the  process  the  skins  may  be  left  in  cold 
palmetto  liquor  of  about  eight  degrees  Baume  for  from  one 
to  two  hours  or  until  they  are  uniformly  colored.  Then 
they  are  tanned  in  a  drum  with  a  palmetto  liquor  of  thirty 
degrees  Beaume,  51  Twaddle,  at  a  temperature  of  eighty- 
five  degrees.  For  seven  hundred  pounds  of  skins,  weighed 
as  they  come  from  the  beam-house,  four  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  of  extract  may  be  used.    In  about  six  hours  the 

(297) 


298 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


skins  are  tanned  through.  Light  skins  require  less  time,, 
according  to  their  thickness.  After  skiving  or  splitting, 
the  leather  is  retanned  for  one-half  hour  in  a  drum  in 
liquor  of  eight  degrees  Baume,  and  then  for  one  hour  with 
strength  of  liquor  thirty  degrees  Beaume.  The  leather  is 
then  washed  in  lukewarm  water  for  twenty  minutes.  The 
water  in  which  the  skins  are  washed  after  tanning  may  be 
used  as  a  coloring  liquor  for  a  fresh  lot  of  skins  coming 
from  the  beam-house.  After  washing,  the  leather  is  pressed 
and  left  in  piles  for  forty-eight  hours  and  is  then  fat- 
liquored. 

The  fat-liquor  for  this  tannage 

May  be  made  of  five  pounds  of  potash  soap  and  one  gallon 
of  degras  boiled  until  dissolved  and  mixed  in  one-half  barrel 
of  water.  The  drum  should  be  heated  to  a  temperature  of 
140  degrees.  The  quantity  of  fat-liquor  mentioned  is  suffi- 
cient for  four  hundred  and  forty  pounds  of  pressed  leather. 
The  leather  should  then  be  drummed  in  the  fat-liquor  for 
thirty  minutes  ;  then  placed  over  horses  or  in  smooth  flat 
piles  to  press  and  drain  for  a  few  hours.  The  grain  is  next 
well  struck  out  and  given  a  light  coat  of  oil,  after  which  the 
leather  is  hung  in  a  warm  room  and  dried.  Leather  made 
by  this  tannage,  may  be  colored  and  finished  in  a  great 
variety  of  ways. 

Hemlock,  quebracho,  gamhier  and  other  tannages. 

Calf-skins  are  tanned  in  a  number  of  ways.  In  addition 
to  the  palmetto  process  as  above  described,  hemlock  liquors 
are  used  alone  and  in  combination  wdth  other  tannages, 
such  as  quebracho  and  gambier ;  palmetto  extract  may 
also  be  combined  with  hemlock  and  other  materials  ;  the 
dongola  process  is  used,  and  also  combinations  of  chrome 
and  vegetable  processes.  The  tanning  is  done  in  vats 
provided  with  paddles,  by  which  the  tanning  liquor  is 
stirred  and  the  tanning  made  uniform  and  thorough.  Vats 


CALFSKINS  VEGETABLE  AND  COMBINATION-TANNED.  299 

without  paddles  are  also  used,  and  some  tanners  tan  thin 
skins  in  pin  mil]  drums  exclusively.  Still  tanning,  by 
which  the  skins  are  not  violently  agitated,  produces  the 
plumpest  and  best  filled  leather,  especially  in  the  flanks  and 
along  the  sides. 

Some  tanners  start  the  skins  in  hemlock  liquor  and  finish 
them  up  in  gambler,  palmetto  or  dongola  liquor.  Gambler 
has  long  been  a  staple  tanning  material,  and  largely  used 
by  the  makers  of  fine  light  leathers.  The  leather  made 
with  gambler  is  soft  and  tough  and  can  be  colored  and 
finished  in  any  desired  manner.  Very  good  leather  is  made 
by  combining  gambler  with  a  chrome  or  mineral  process. 
When  gambler  is  used  alone,  the  tanning  is  a  very  simple, 
straigh forward  process.  The  skins  are  usually  started  in  a 
weak  liquor  and  this  is  gradually  strengthened  by  the 
addition  of  fresh  gambler  until  it  becomes  strong  towards 
the  end  of  the  process.  Common  salt  is  very  useful  in 
gambler  tanning.  It  helps  to  make  soft  leather  and  also 
hastens  the  tanning  process  and  prevents  contraction  of 
the  fibres.  Heavy  skins,  after  becoming  well  struck  with 
the  tanning  liquor,  are  split  and  then  re-tanned  in  gam- 
bier.  Palmetto  extract  is  very  useful  in  the  re-tanning 
of  calf-skins.  It  puts  the  leather  into  condition  to  stand 
heat  well  and  to  take  and  carry  grease,  and  it  also  toughens 
the  leather  and  makes  it  more  waterproof.  Skins  can  be 
started  in  a  gambler  liquor  and  tanned  out  of  a  palmetto 
liquor.  The  leather,  after  the  tanning  is  completed,  may 
be  strengthened  and  cleared  by  being  milled  in  a  drum 
in  a  solution  of  alum  and  salt.  In  about  thirt}^  gallons 
of  water  are  dissolved  fifteen  pounds  of  alum  and  ten 
pounds  of  salt,  this  quantity  of  liquor  being  enough  for 
tw^o  hundred  and  forty  skins.  In  this  solution  the  skins 
are  drummed  for  thirty  minutes,  and  should  then  be  allowed 
to  drain  w^ell.  It  is  well  to  remove  the  surplus  tanning 
liquor  by  washing  the  leather  in  a  drum  in  lukewarm 
water  for  about  twenty  minutes.    Then  the  leather  is  ready 


300 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


for  pressing,  fat-liquoring  and  drying  out ;  or  it  may  be 
dried  out  first  and  then  moistened  and  fat-liquored. 

Skins  may  be  tanned  in  liquors  made  up  of  palmetto 
and  hemlock  or  other  extracts  in  almost  any  proportion, 
and  then  retanned  in  the  same  liquors  or  in  a  straight 
palmetto  liquor.  Tanning  extracts  are  combined  in  vari- 
ous ways.  Quebracho  and  gambler  are  used  in  combina- 
tion, also  quebracho  and  hemlock.  Quebracho  is  an  excel- 
lent tanning  material,  but  when  it  is  used  alone  it  does  not 
plump  the  leather  enough.  The  best  results  are  obtained 
when  it'  is  combined  with  other  materials.  The  color  of 
quebracho  tanned  skins  may  be  improved  by  the  addition 
to  the  liquor  of  a  small  quantity  of  divi-divi.  Quebracho 
is  very  useful  in  tanning  calf-skins  for  patent  or  enameled 
leather,  on  account  of  the  pliability  of  the  leather  made 
with  it.  When  quebracho  is  combined  with  hemlock  ex- 
tract the  leather  made  is  very  tough  and  soft  and  of  a  fair 
uniform  color  and  well  filled.  The  liquor  may  be  two- 
thirds  quebracho  and  one-third  hemlock,  used  either  in 
drums  or  vats. 

Re-tanning  chrome  leather  ivith  gambier  or  palmetto. 

Leather  that  has  been  made  by  a  chrome  process  may  be 
retanned  with  gambier  or  palmetto.  The  latter  extract 
has  the  good  effects  of  neutralizing  any  trace  of  acid  left  in 
the  leather,  and  also  serves  to  put  the  leather  in  good  con- 
dition to  receive  any  shade  of  color  or  black.  The  grain 
is  made  smooth  and  remains  so.  For  the  retanning  of  three 
thousand  pounds  of  chrome  tanned  calf-skins  three  gallons 
of  palmetto  extract  and  one  pint  of  glycerine  may  be  used. 
The  extract  is  dissolved  in  the  quantity  of  warm  water  re- 
quired ;  and  the  liquor  when  used  should  be  at  a  temper- 
ature of  90  degrees  Fah.  When  a  one-bath  process  is  used 
the  skins  may  be  tanned  first  in  chrome  liquors  in  drums 
or  paddle-vats  and  then  retanned  in  gambier  or  palmetto  ; 
or  they  can  be  given  a  light  tanning  with  the  extract  and 


CALFSKINS  VEGETABLE  AND  COMBINATION-TANNED.  301 

then  tanned  in  the  chrome  liquors.  Heavy  calfskins  may 
be  split  before  tanning  after  the  liming  process,  which  has 
been  made  possible  by  recent  improvements  on  splitting 
machines,  and  the  grains,  after  bating  and  drenching,  may 
be  tanned  in  any  process  of  tanning,  and  the  fleshes  or 
splits  drenched  and  made  into  glove  leather. 

Ons-hatli  chrome  liquors  are  handled  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  bark  or  gambier  liquors,  that  is  to  say,  the  skins 
are  entered  into  a  weak  liquor  containing  to  each  one  hun- 
dred gallons  of  water,  two  or  three  gallons  of  chrome  liquor, 
and  the  bath  is  gradually  strengthened  by  the  addition  of 
chrome  liquor  until  it  contains  from  four  to  six  gallons  of 
the  same  to  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  water.  The  tan- 
ning is  also  done  in  drums. 

Hemlock  or  combination  liquors  for  calfskins  and  kips. 
Heavy  calfskins  and  kips  are  sometimes  tanned  in  hem- 
lock or  combination  liquors,  and  after  splitting  are  retanned 
in  gambier,  or  dongola  liquor  made  up  of  salt,  alum  and 
gambier.  Hemlock  is  a  good  filler,  but  is  of  a  very  harsh 
nature.  Skins  tanned  in  hemlock  are  much  improved  by 
the  subsequent  treatment  with  gambier  or  dongola  liquors. 
These  materials  tone  down  the  harshness  of  the  hemlock 
and  produce  a  soft  silky  feel  on  the  leather.  The  leather  is 
made  supple,  firm  and  tough,  and  put  in  good  condition  to 
receive  and  retain  the  black.  When  gambier  is  used  in 
this  way  the  liquor  may  be  prepared  by  boiling  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  pounds  of  the  same  in  eighty  gallons  of 
water.  The  skins,  sixty  in  number,  or  thirty  sides,  are  put 
into  the  drum  with  ten  gallons  of  the  gambier  liquor,  to 
which  may  be  added  a  pailful  of  dry  American  sumac,  and 
the  amount  of  water  considered  necessary.  A  running  in 
this  liquor  for  thirty  tninutes  is  sufiicient. 

A  good  dongola  liquor. 
A  good  dongola  liquor  may  be  made  of  the  following 
proportions  :  In  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  are  dissolved 


302 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


by  boiling  thirty  pounds  of  salt,  and  forty  pounds  of  alum. 
These  should  be  boiled  until  they  are  thoroughly  dissolved. 
One  hundred  and  eighty  pounds  of  gambler  are  boiled  in 
two  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water  until  dissolved,  and 
the  gambler  liquor  and  the  alum  and  salt  solution  are  then 
mixed  together  in  a  vat  or  tub.  By  the  addition  of  one 
hundred  gallons  more  of  water,  and  one  quart  of  sulphuric 
acid,  there  are  made  five  hundred  gallons  of  dongola  liquor. 
The  skins  ma}^  be  tanned  from  the  first  in  this  dongola 
process,  either  in  drums  or  vats,  and  very  desirable  leather 
is  in  this  way  made.  When  the  tanning  or  the  retanning 
in  dongola  liquor  is  finished  the  leather  is  washed  and 
pressed,  and  then  given  some  oil  in  a  drum.  Three  gallons 
of  neatsfoot  oil  may  be  used  for  this  purpose  for  each  three 
hundred  pounds  of  leather.  Fish  oil  may  also  be  used. 
The  leather  is  drummed  in  the  oil  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
hung  up  and  dried  out.  The  oil  prevents  the  grain  from 
cracking  during  drying.  The  skins  are  then  stored  away 
until  they  are  to  be  finished. 

When  the  dongola  process  is  used  from  the  beginning  the 
skins  may  be  pickled  after  bating  and  washing  in  salt,  sul- 
phuric acid  and  water — five  hundred  gallons  of  the  latter, 
two  hundred  pounds  of  salt  and  thirty-five  pounds  of  acid 
being  used  and  the  skins  stirred  about  in  the  liquor  for 
about  six  hours.  Then  they  are  entered  into  the  salt, 
alum,  and  gambler  liquor.  One  way  of  making  up  the 
liquor  is  to  prepare  a  gambler  solution  of  about  six  degrees 
barkometer,  to  which  are  added  ten  pounds  of  alum  and 
seven  pounds  of  salt  for  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  liquor. 
When  tanned,  the  skins  are  drained  or  pressed,  and  in  the 
case  of  heavy  skins  or  kips  they  are  split,  and  then  retanned 
in  a  gambler  liquor.  The  leather  can  also  be  made 
by  applying  first  the  alum  and  salt  and  then  the  gambler 
liquor.  The  splits  may  be  tanned  in  various  ways  accord- 
ing to  what  they  are  to  be  used  for.  The  best  way  to  treat 
splits  full  of  alum  and  salt  is  to  mill  them  in  a  drum  in  a 


CALFSKINS  VEGETABLE  AND  COMBINATION-TANNED.  303 

weak  gambier  liquor  until  they  are  thoroughly  softened. 
Then  they  may  be  tanned  in  bark  or  extract  liquors  and 
filled.  In  this  way  no  salt  and  alum  will  be  left  in  the 
stock  to  spew  out  upon  the  surface  after  the  leather  is  dried 
out.  To  wash  the  splits  in  water  previous  to  putting  them 
in  the  bark  or  extract  liquors  makes  them  flat  and  lacking 
in  plumpness.  It  would  be  impossible  to  plump  them 
again  and  nothing  but  flat  and  lifeless  leather  would  result. 
By  milling  them  in  gambier  liquor  the  plumpness  and  full- 
ness are  retained.  The  splits  are  tanned  in  almost  as  many 
ways  as  the  grains.  Hemlock,  quebracho,  bark  and  com- 
bination processes  are  used,  according  to  the  qualities  re- 
quired in  the  leather. 

To  fat-liquor  combination  and  vegetable-tanned  calf -skins. 

When  the  tanning  in  gambier  or  other  vegetable  tannage 
is  completed,  the  skins  should  be  removed  from  the  tanning 
liquor  and  thoroughly  pressed,  so  as  to  remove  the  surplus 
liquor  and  then  left  in  piles  for  forty-eight  hours.  The 
stuffing  drum  should  be  heated  to  about  one  hundred  de- 
grees, and  one  gallon  of  oil  added  for  every  hundred  pounds 
of  stock  weighed  after  pressing  and  draining.  Let  the 
skins  run  in  this  until  the  oil  is  well  taken  up  and  ab- 
sorbed, which  requires  about  forty  minutes ;  then  take  the 
leather  from  the  drum  and  hang  it  up  and  let  it  dry  out. 
After  drying,  the  stock  should  be  weighed  and  then  wet  in 
a  tub  and  piled  up  for  a  number  of  hours  to  soften.  This 
is  better  than  softening  in  a  drum,  as  it  does  not  pipe  the 
grain.  The  skins  may  be  shaved  at  this  point  and  then 
put  into  the  drum  and  run  with  just  enough  water  to 
soften  all  parts  alike.  Any  excess  of  water  should  be 
drained  off*,  and  the  leather  next  given  the  fat-liquor.  The 
temperature  of  the  drum  should  be  about  120  degrees. 
For  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  dry  weight  stock,  the 
maximum  quantity  of  fat-liquor  is  twenty  gallons.  This 
quantity  is  sometimes  too  much,  and  a  smaller  quantity 


304 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


may  often  be  used  and  the  leather  still  be  quite  soft 
enough.  The  leather  should  be  drummed  in  this  fat-liquoi 
until  all  the  grease  is  taken  up ;  then  it  should  be  hung 
up  and  dried  out  again. 

Other  fat  liquors. 

A  very  good  fat-liquor  may  be  compounded  as  follows : 
About  twenty-five  gallons  of  water  are  put  into  a  barrel. 
To  this  are  added  twenty-five  pounds  of  suitable  potash  soft 
soap,  and  this  boiled  until  it  is  thoroughly  dissolved. 
Then  about  fifty  pounds  of  English  sod  oil  and  one  and 
one-half  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  are  added  and  the  mixture 
thoroughly  stirred  until  completely  combined.  It  is  good 
practice  to  cut  the  oil  before  using  it  by  pouring  into  and 
stirring  a  few  ounces  of  sal-soda  or  borax  dissolved  in  hot 
water.  Enough  water  is  next  added  to  make  a  total  of 
fitty  gallons  of  fat-liquor. 

Fat-liquors  may  also  be  made  according  to  the  following 
formulas  :  Ten  pounds  of  suitable  soft  soap  are  boiled  in 
ten  gallons  of  water  until  all  is  dissolved.  To  the  soap 
solution  are  then  added  four  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  and  ten 
pounds  of  degras,  and  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly 
mixed  together  by  boiling  and  stirring.  Enough  water  is 
then  added  to  make  fifty  gallons  of  fatdiquor.  Three 
pails  soft  soap,  four  gallons  sod  oil,  two  pounds  borax,  ten 
pounds  degras,  also  makes  a  good  fat-liquor.  Five  pounds 
degras,  three  pounds  cod  oil,  three  pounds  neatsfoot  oil 
and  two  pounds  paraffine  oil  may  be  used.  After  the  fat- 
liquoring  of  the  leather  is  completed,  the  stock  should  be 
hung  up  and  dried  out. 

THE  COLORING  AND  FINISHING  OF  VEGETABLE  AND  COMBI- 
NATION TANNED  CALFSKINS. 

After  becoming  thoroughly  dried  out  the  skins  may  be 
kept  in  storage  for  some  time  before  they  are  colored  and 
finished.    When  the  coloring  and  finishing  operadons  are 


CALFSKINS  VEGETABLE  AND  COMBINATION-TANNED.  o05 

to  be  carried  out,  the  dried  leather  is  moistened  in  warm 
water  and  placed  in  piles  for  twenty-four  hours,  to  become 
thoroughly  moistened  through  and  soft.  For  black  leather 
the  flesh  is  next  colored  blue  or  yellow  as  may  be  desired. 

For  a  blue  flesh  a  solution  of  logwood  is  most  com- 
monly used.  To  the  logwood  solution  may  be  added  a 
few  ounces  of  blue  aniline  or  of  nigrosine.  Of  logwood 
extract,  paste  or  powder,  one  pound  of  the  same  may  be 
boiled  with  a  few  ounces  of  borax  or  sal-soda  in  ten  gallons 
of  water  and  used  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  leather. 
The  leather  is  milled  in  the  color  solution  for  twenty  min- 
utes, then  removed  from  the  drum  and  dyed  black  upon 
the  grain  with  logwood  and  striker.  A  stronger  solution 
than  that  mentioned  above  may  be  used,  and  after  the 
leather  has  been  drumming  in  the  same  for  twenty  minutes, 
it  may  be  spread  on  a  table  or  run  through  a  machine  and 
the  color  developed  by  the  application  of  the  striker.  This 
method  gives  a  blue  flesh  and  black  grain. 

A  good  blue  flesh  is  obtained  from  the  use  of  blue 
nigrosine.  For  twenty-four  skins  of  medium  size,  eight 
ounces  of  nigrosine  are  used.  This  is  dissolved  in  boiling 
water  and  applied  to  the  leather  at  a  temperature  of  90 
degrees  Fah.  A  running  in  this  liquor  for  twenty  minutes 
enables  the  leather  to  absorb  all  the  dye,  after  which  it  may 
be  blacked  upon  the  grain,  oiled  off*  and  dried  out. 

For  yellow  flesh,  the  stock  should  be  uniformly  and 
thoroughly  moistened.  The  one-half  pail  of  sumac  is 
scalded  for  two  hours  in  a  closed  vessel.  When  it  is  wanted 
for  use,  to  the  sumac  liquor  one  gallon  of  lactracine  and  four 
pails  of  water  are  added.  This  quantity  of  liquor  is  suffi- 
cient for  ninety  calf-skins  of  average  size.  The  temperature 
of  the  liquor  should  be  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  degrees, 
and  the  leather  milled  in  the  solution  for  thirty  minutes. 
Then  the  skins  should  be  piled  up  on  both  sides  of  the 
drum  and  the  color  solution  added.  One  pound  of  Yellow 
S.  is  dissolved  in  one-half  barrel  of  water.  After  the  drum- 
20 


.306 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


ming  ill  the  sumac,  four  pailfuls  of  the  color  Hquor  are 
added  to  the  sumac  bath  and  the  leather  is  drummed 
therein  for  ten  minutes,  or  until  the  latter  is  permeated 
with  the  yellow  dye.  The  grain  is  next  blacked  with  log- 
wood and  striker,  then  well  set  out,  oiled  lightly  and  the 
leather  dried  out  and  finished  in  any  desired  way.  In 
place  of  the  sumac,  fustic  may  be  used.  Morin  Yellow  is  a 
product  of  fustic,  and  superior  to  chip  fustic.  It  is  excel- 
lent as  a  mordant  upon  any  class  of  leather.  It  is  readily 
dissolved  in  boiling  water  and  used  in  the  same  manner  as 
described  for  sumac. 

In  dyeing  leather  black  upon  the  grain 

Some  form  of  logwood  is  generally  used.  Logwood  chips, 
logwood  extract  in  paste  and  solid  and  liquid  form  are  used  ; 
also  the  powdered  products  of  logwood  such  as  Hemoliii 
XS  Patd.,  Hsematoxylin,  and  Hsemetine.  The  use  of  log- 
wood chips  in  leather  dyeing  has  been  greatly  supersceded 
during  the  last  few  years  by  the  use  of  logwood  in  powder 
and  extract  form.  The  results  gotten  from  the  use  of  these 
articles  are  better  and  more  uniform  than  the  results  ob- 
tained from  the  use  of  chips,  since  the  extracts  and  pow- 
ders, and  especially  the  latter,  are  always  uniform  in 
strength  and  quality.  Logwood  paste  is  very  excellent  so 
long  as  it  does  not  get  frozen.  When  once  frozen  the  color 
produced  is  not  satisfactory,  being  a  muddy  grey  black. 
This  trouble  is  not  met  with  in  using  the  powders.  Log- 
wood chips  require  a  very  thorough  and  long  boiling  to  get 
the  color  all  extracted. 

When  the  logwood  paste  is  used  from  six  to  eight  pounds 
of  the  same  are  dissolved  in  forty  gallons  of  warm  water 
with  one-half  pound  of  borax  or  sal-soda,  and  brought  to 
the  boiling  point.  This  liquor  is  very  strong  and  may  be 
reduced  in  strength  by  the  addition  of  more  water.  Hem- 
olin  and  other  powdered  dyes  are  used  in  the  proportion  of 
about  six  pounds  of  the  powder  to  a  barrel  of  water.  The 


CALFSKINS  VEGETABLE  AND  COMBINATION-TANNED.  307 

dye  is  first  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  in  one-half  barrel  of 
water  and  then  the  barrel  is  filled.  From  one  to  two 
pounds  of  borax  or  sal-soda  may  be  added  to  the  dye  liquor. 
A  few  fustic  chips  may  also  be  boiled  with  it  and  serve  to 
intensify  the  color. 

The  leather  may  be  blacked  in  a  drum,  on  a  machine,  on 
tables  or  by  being  folded  and  passed  through  the  dye  in 
boxes  or  trays.  It  is  first  given  the  logwood  dye,  and  then 
the  striker.  Sometimes  two  or  three  applications  of  the  dye 
are  required  to  get  a  satisfactory  black,  according  to  the 
strength  of  the  liquors. 

Strikers,  as  they  ave  comynonly  called,  which  are  used  to  develop 
the  color,  are  made  according  to  the  folloiving  recipes: 

(1)  Four  and  one-half  pounds  of  copperas,  and  one  and 
one-half  pounds  of  blue  vitriol,  dissolved  in  one-half  barrel 
of  water  by  boiling.  Then  the  barrel  is  filled  with  water. 
For  use  in  machine  dyeing  twelve  pounds  of  copperas  and 
four  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  are  used  for  each  barrel  of  water. 
Te  this  are  added  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  ground  nut- 
galls,  and  one  pound  of  Epsom  salts  to  each  six  pounds  of 
copperas  and  blue  vitriol  combined. 

(2)  Nine  pounds  of  copperas,  four  ounces  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  six  ounces  acetic  acid  and  one  ounce  nutgalls, 
mixed  together  and  dissolved  by  boiling  in  ten  gallons  of 
water,  and  then  turned  into  a  barrel,  and  enough  water 
added  to  make  forty  gallons. 

(3)  Three  gallons  iron  liquor,  two  pounds  of  copperas, 
dissolved  and  mixed  together.  Three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  verdigris  dissolved  in  two  quarts  of  vinegar  and  added 
to  the  copperas  and  iron  liquor.  In  place  of  verdigris,  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  blue-stone  dissolved  in  two  quarts 
boiling  water  may  be  used.  The  liquor  should  be  well 
stirred  and  allowed  to  settle,  and  the  clear  liquor  only  used. 

(4)  Nine  pounds  of  copperas,  one-fourth  pound  of  Epsom 
salts,  six  ounces  of  acetic  acid  and  one  ounce  of  nutgalls. 
Forty  gallons  of  water. 


308 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Soft  water,  or  better  still,  condensed  steam  should  always 
be  used  in  making  blacking,  dye  liquors  and  finishes. 

After  the  grain  of  the  leather  is  dyed  black,  it  should  be 
washed  off  with  warm  water,  and  well  set  out.  Then  a 
light  coat  of  oil  should  be  applied  evenl}^  over  the  leather, 
and  the  leather  then  hung  up  and  dried  out. 

For  a  dull  finish,  the  leather  is  given  an  application  of  a 
dull  dressing  and  then  ironed  or  rolled.  For  glazed  finish, 
a  different  kind  of  dressing  is  used  than  for  dull  finish. 
A  coat  of  the  dressing  or  seasoning  is  applied  evenly  over 
the  grain  and  well  rubbed.  The  leather  is  hung  in  a  warm 
room  to  dry,  and  when  it  is  dry  it  is  glazed  upon  the  glaz- 
ing machine.  Two,  and  even  three  applications  of  the 
glazing  liquor  and  two  and  three  workings  upon  the 
machine  are  required  to  produce  a  bright,  deep  and  lasting 
gloss.  In  regard  to  seasoning  liquors,  it  is  very  often  bet- 
ter for  the  tanner  to  buy  seasonings  prepared  by  firms  who 
make  that  their  business,  than  to  attempt  to  make  his  own 
seasonings.  The  seasonings  that  the  tanner  buys  ready  for 
use  at  the  present  time  are  of  very  excellent  quality.  Many 
tanners  buy  all  the  leather  dressings,  while  others  prepare 
them  themselves. 

In  order  to  get  a  perfectly  satisfactory  finish  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  seasoning  should  be  thoroughly  rubbed  into 
the  leather.  The  grain  must  be  free  from  grease.  A  dilute 
solution  of  lactic  acid  in  water  applied  over  the  grain,  well 
rubbed  in  and  dried  before  the  seasoning  is  applied,  does  a 
great  deal  towards  getting  a  clear,  bright  finish. 

The  receipes  given  for  seasonings,  in  other  parts  of  this 
book,  produce  very  good  results  upon  calfskins. 

Gambler,  'palmetto  and  combination-tanned  calf-skins. 

Gambler,  palmetto  and  combination-tanned  calf-skins  and 
sides  intended  for  colored  leather,  after  being  fat-liquored 
are  dried  out,  are  then  moistened  in  warm  water  in  a  tub 
and   placed  in  piles  for  a  number  of  hours  to  become 


CALFSKINS  VEGETABLP:  AND  COMBINATION-TANNED.  309 

thoroughly  softened.  To  prepare  them  for  any  shade  of 
color  they  are,  preferably,  milled  in  a  drum  in  a  solution 
of  sumac  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  For  sixty 
medium  sides  or  ninety  average  calf-skins,  one-half  of  a  pail 
of  sumac  is  scalded  in  a  closed  vessel  for  two  hours.  To 
the  sumac  solution  are  added  four  pails  of  water  and  one 
gallon  of  Lactracine.  The  temperature  of  this  liquor  when 
it  is  applied  to  the  skins  or  sides  should  be  100  dgerees 
Fah.,  and  the  leather  should  be  run  in  the  same  for  twenty- 
five  minutes.  This  prepares  the  leather  for  the  process  of 
coloring,  and  is  a  very  practical  method,  simple  and  easy 
to  use  and  always  productive  of  good  results.  It  can  be 
applied  to  skins  and  sides  tanned  in  any  process  or  com- 
bination of  processes. 

In  some  instances  it  is  not  necessary  to  use  sumac  for  the 
purpose  of  freshening  up  the  leather,  depending  upon  the 
nature  of  the  tannage  and  the  condition  of  the  leather.  It 
is  always  good  practice,  however,  to  thoroughly  soften  the 
stock  before  applying  any  dye  to  it ;  and  it  is  also  well  to 
wash  the  leather  in  warm  water  in  order  to  remove  from 
it  all  the  particles  of  dirt,  dust  and  tannin. 

In  the  treatment  of  leather  that  has  acquired  a  dark 
color  from  the  tannage,  it  is  advantageous  to  bleach  the 
stock  before  coloring  it.  Practical  methods  of  bleaching 
leather  are  given  in  another  chapter.  They  produce  good 
results  when  applied  to  calf-skins  and  sides. 

Preparing  the  skins  by  the  use  of  tartar  emetic  and  antimonine. 

When  leather  has  been  freshened  up  in  a  sumac  bath, 
it  is  apt  to  contain  uncombined  tannin,  which  has  a  tend- 
ency to  cause  uneven  and  cloudy  coloring.  To  prevent 
such  a  result,  tartar  emetic  or  antimonine  may  be  used.  In 
using  either  of  these  articles,  the  leather  is  first  milled  in 
a  sumac  liquor.  This  may  consist  of  one  pound  of  extract 
of  sumac  in  the  required  quantity  of  water  at  100°  F., 
for  four  dozen  medium-sized  skins  or  thirty-two  average 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


sides.  In  this  liquor  the  leather  is  drummed  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  for  the  quantity  of  stock  mentioned  one-half 
of  a  pound  of  either  tartar  emetic  or  antimonine  may  be 
dissolved  in  warm  water  and  added  to  the  leather  and 
sumac,  and  the  drumming  continued  twenty  minutes 
longer,  when  the  grain  will  be  cleared  and  ready  for  the 
aniline  dye.  No  bichromate  of  potash  or  other  setting 
agent  will  be  required,  as  the  aniline  will  be  fixed  firmly 
and  evenly  upon  the  leather.  The  leather  should  be 
washed  off  before  it  is  colored.  Aniline  and  sulphamine 
dyes  are  used  almost  exclusively  in  coloring  leather.  They 
produce  very  good  results,  and  the  number  of  shades  that 
can  be  produced  with  them  and  by  combining  two  or  more 
colors,  is  almost  unlimited. 

Aniline  dyes  on  vegetable  tanned  stock. 

Practical  instructions  regarding  the  use  of  these  dyes  and 
specific  directions  for  combining  two  or  more  dyes  to  pro- 
duce various  shades,  are  given  as  applied  to  chrome  tanned 
skins.  The  instructions  given  may  be  followed  out  in  col- 
oring vegetable  tanned  stock,  by  preparing  the  leather  as 
above  suggested,  and  using  the  dyes  as  directed  for  chrome 
tanned  leather.  The  coloring  must  be  done  carefully  and 
cleanly,  in  order  to  get  deep  and  uniform  coloring.  After 
the  leather  has  assumed  the  desired  shade  it  should  be 
washed  off,  set  out  and  dried  out.  Some  tanners  color  their 
leather  before  fat-liquoring  it,  others  afterwards  ;  and  some 
fat-liquor  their  stock,  dry  it  out  and  color  it,  and  then  give 
it  a  second  application  of  fat-liquor. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


CALF-SKINS  TANNED  FOR  GLOVE  AND  MITTEN 
PURPOSES. 

Alum,  processes. 

Very  soft  white  leather,  of  excellent  texture  and  strength, 
adapted  to  any  purpose  for  which  such  leather  is  required, 
may  be  made  from  calfskins  by  any  alum  process.  The 
skins  may  be  prepared  in  the  usual  way  of  soaking,  lining 
and  bating.  By  pickling  the  skins  in  a  bath  of  water,  sul- 
phuric acid  and  salt  previous  to  tanning,  they  are  bleached 
a  perfect  white,  and  this  is  something  of  an  advantage. 
Before  they  are  treated  with  alum  and  salt  the  acid  must 
be  gotten  rid  of,  or  the  leather  will  be  hard  and  stiff  and 
lacking  in  strength  when  it  is  finished.  To  accomplish  the 
removal  of  the  acid  and  the  neutralization  of  the  skins  a 
drench  of  sour  bran  and  salt  may  be  used,  also  a  drench  of 
whiting  and  salt.  Either  of  these  may  be  used  alone,  or 
the  whiting  and  salt  method  may  be  appHed  to  the  skins 
and  then  a  light  sour  bran  drench  used.  All  traces  of  whit- 
ing must  be  washed  off  either  in  the  bran  drench  or  in 
warm  salt  water,  before  the  skins  are  tanned.  The  use  of 
the  salt  is  absolutely  necessary  to  keep  the  skins  from  swell- 
ing. When  no  pickling  process  is  used,  and  it  is  not  nec- 
essary to  use  it,  the  skins  are  bated  and  washed  and  cleaned, 
and  are  then  ready  for  tanning.  For  every  hundred  pounds 
of  skins  to  be  tanned  a  solution  may  be  prepared  of  twelve 
gallons  of  water  at  a  temperature  of  90  degrees  Fah.,  six 
pounds  of  alum,  six  pounds  of  salt,  twenty  pounds  of  wheat 
flour  and  twelve  pounds  of  egg  yolk,  all  thoroughly  mixed 
together  and  applied  to  the  skins  in  a  drum.  The  skins 
may  be  drummed  in  the  liquor  for  one  hour,  then  removed 

(311) 


312 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  dried  out.  After  drying  they  should  be  allowed  to  lie 
in  crust  for  some  weeks  and  even  months,  the  longer  the 
better,  to  cure.  They  may  then  be  moistened,  staked,  dried 
and  finished,  and  will  work  out  into  very  soft  white  leather. 
The  soluble  oil  commonly  called  Turkey  red  oil  is  well 
suited  to  replace  the  egg  yolk. 

The  skins  may  be  pressed  after  drenching  and  passed 
through  a  warm  solution  of  the  oil,  made  up  of  ten  gallons 
of  the  same  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  warm  water,  and 
then  dried  out.  Then  they  may  again  be  treated  with  the 
oil  and  then  tanned  with  the  alum  liquor.  The  leather  is 
made  remarkably  flexible  and  soft  and  has  a  very  fine  ap- 
pearance. To  the  oil  solution  some  carbolic  acid  may  be 
added  to  prevent  heating  of  the  skins  while  they  are  stored 
away  to  cure.  A  very  desirable  leather  may  also  be  made 
by  moistening  back  the  dried  skins  and  tanning  them  in  a 
one-bath  chrome  liquor.  After  tanning,  the  skins  may  be 
washed  in  borax  water  and  then  bleached  in  a  warm  bath 
of  sumac,  dried  out  and  finished  in  white,  or  they  may  be 
colored  any  shade  of  color  after  the  sumac  bath. 

Good  leather  can  also  he  wade 
By  drumming  the  prepared  skins  in  a  solution  of  four  pounds 
of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  ten  pounds  of  common  salt, 
wheat-flour  and  egg  yolk  being  omitted.  The  skins  may  be 
drummed  in  the  alum  and  salt,  made  into  solution  with  ten 
gallons  of  water  for  one  hour.  Then,  for  every  hundred 
pounds  of  skins  in  the  drum,  ten  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of 
soda  may  be  dissolved  in  six  gallons  of  water  and  added  to 
the  contents  of  the  drum,  and  the  drumming  continued  for 
twenty  minutes.  This  serves  to  make  the  tawing  permanent. 
To  further  plump  the  skins,  thinned  by  the  hyposulphite  oi 
soda,  two  pounds  more  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  four 
pounds  of  salt  may  be  dissolved  and  added  to  the  skins, 
and  the  drumming  continued  for  one-half  hour,  after  which 
the  skins  may  be  dipped  into  cold  water  and  finished  by 


CALFSKINS   FOR   GLOVE   AND   MITTEN   PURPOSES.  ol3 

being  fat-liquored  with  an  emulsion  of  soap  and  oil,  or  a 
combination  of  egg  yolk  and  olive  oil,  in  the  same  manner 
as  these  articles  are  applied  to  goat-skins  for  kid  leather. 
The  leather  is  then  dried  out  and  worked  soft  and  is  finished. 
The  quantities  of  egg  yolk  and  olive  oil  required  for  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins  are  about  ten  pints  of  egg  yolk 
and  five  pints  of  olive  oil.  A  good  fat-liquor  may  also  be 
made  for  this  class  of  stock  of  five  pounds  of  soap,  two 
gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  and  five  pounds  of  egg  yolk  in 
twenty  gallons  of  water.  The  soap  should  first  be  boiled 
into  a  solution  and  then  the  oil  added,  and  the  temperature 
of  the  emulsion  reduced  to  seventy  degrees  by  the  addition 
of  cold  water,  after  which  the  egg  yolk  is  added.  From  two 
to  three  gallons  of  this  fat-liquor  are  required  by  each 
dozen  skins  of  small  and  medium  size,  according  to  size 
and  thickness  and  degree  of  softness  wanted  by  the  tanner. 

The  Napa  process,  described  in  another  portion  of  this 
book,  may  be  used  upon  calf-skins  intended  for  white 
leather  with  good  results. 

Soft  and  tough  glove  leather 

May  be  made  from  calf-skins  by  the  following  process  :  After 
the  drenching  and  washing  of  the  raw  skins  is  completed 
they  are  treated  with  a  solution,  composed  for  two  hundred 
skins,  of  the  following  ingredients  :  Twenty  pounds  of  salt, 
thirty  pounds  of  white  rock  potash,  and  three  hundred  gal- 
lons of  water.  The  skins  may  be  left  in  this  solution  for 
about  tw^o  hours,  or  they  may  be  processed  in  a  drum  for 
thirty  minutes,  less  water  being  used  in  the  drum  method 
than  in  the  paddle-vat.  After  this,  they  are  wTung  out 
dry  and  immersed  in  a  solution  composed  of  twelve  pounds 
of  hard  soap  and  two  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  in  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  gallons  of  water,  in  this  solution  the  skins 
are  left  long  enough  to  become  thoroughly  moistened  with 
it  and  are  then  removed  and  hung  up  and  dried  out  again. 
They  are  treated  in  this  way,  wetting  in  the  liquor  and 


314 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


drying  out,  two  or  three  times.  After  being  treated  in  this 
way,  they  are  taken  in  the  dry  state  and  put  into  clean 
water  and  washed  in  a  thorough  manner  to  remove  the  sur- 
plus tanning-matter  from  them,  and  in  this  moist  condition 
are  colored  any  shade  desired,  or  they  may  be  smoked,  or 
dried  out  without  either  coloring  or  smoking,  and  when 
this  is  done  they  make  white  leather. 

A  similar  process  is  the  following  : 
The  skins  ready  for  tanning  are  treated  with  a  liquor 
composed  of  two  pounds  of  caustic  soda,  one  pound  of 
borax  and  enough  water  to  cover  the  skins ;  say  one  hun- 
dred gallons.  The  quantities  named  are  sufficient  for  one 
hundred  and  twenty  average  size  skins.  The  skins  are 
drummed  in  this  liquor  for  one-half  hour  and  are  then 
removed  and  hung  up  and  dried  out.  The  dried  skins  are 
next  placed  in  a  solution  composed  of  five  pounds  of  hard 
soap,  one  gallon  of  straits-oil,  one-half  pound  of  caustic 
soda  and  seventy-five  gallons  of  water.  In  this  liquor  the 
skins  are  left  until  they  have  become  thoroughly  moistened 
through  and  soft,  after  which  they  are  placed  in  a  drum 
with  some  of  the  liquor  and  drummed  therein  for  one-half 
hour,  being  then  removed  and  dried  out  as  before.  The 
skins  are  next  drummed  again  in  some  of  the  second  solu- 
tion, and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out  again.  Sometimes 
this  process  needs  to  be  repeated  two  or  three  times  until 
good  leather  results.  They  may  be  colored  any  shade,  or 
smoked,  and  will  be  found  to  be  very  soft,  tough  and  strong. 

Making  glove  leather  of  calfskin  fleshers. 
For  split  calf-skin,  the  grains  of  which  are  tanned  for  shoe 
leather,  good  glove  leather  can  be  made  from  the  flesh  split 
in  the  following  manner:  For  two  dozen  fleshes  of  average 
size  a  solution  is  prepared  of  one  pound  of  alum,  two  gal- 
lons of  water,  one  pound  of  flour,  with  one  gill  of  oil  and 
enough  water  to  make  a  total  of  three  gallons  of  liquor. 
The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  one-half  hour> 


CALFSKINS   FOR  GLOVE  AND  MITTEN   PURPOSES.  315 

after  which  they  are  allowed  to  drain  and  are  then  drummed 
in  a  liquor  composed  of  one  gill  of  ammonia,  one-half 
bar  of  soap,  one-half  ounce  of  soda,  one-half  pound  of  salt, 
and  about  two  ounces  of  ochre,  all  boiled  in  two  gallons  of 
water  until  they  are  dissolved.  To  this  liquor  is  added 
one  pound  of  flour,  mixed  in  two  gallons  of  water.  The 
skins  are  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  thirty  minutes,  then 
dried  out,  staked  and  finished  upon  either  side.  The  fleshes 
may  be  treated  in  the  first  liquor  and  dried  out  without  the 
use  of  the  second  liquor.  In  the  majority  of  cases  it  is 
best  to  use  the  entire  process,  and  when  finished  the  skins 
are  very  soft  and  tough  and  of  very  fine  texture. 

A  simple  method  of  tanning  calf -skins 
That  results  in  the  making  of  a  leather  as  soft  as  chamois^ 
consists  of  giving  the  skins  a  long  and  thorough  liming  and 
a  very  thorough  drenching  and  washing,  draining  them  and 
then  giving  them  heavy  coats  of  oil,  on  both  the  grain  and 
flesh  sides,  rolling  them  up  and  after  letting  them  lie  for  a 
few  days,  drying  them  out.  The  oil  may  also  be  applied  in 
a  drum.  After  the  skins  become  dry  they  should  be  washed 
in  warm  soapsuds,  and  the  suds  left  in  the  skins,  and  the 
leather  dried  out  again.  During  the  drying  the  skins  should 
be  worked  until  they  become  thoroughly  soft  and  dry.  The 
drying  of  the  leather  should  take  place  in  a  moderately 
warm  room,  so  that  they  will  not  be  parched,  and  during  the 
drying  they  should  be  worked  occasionally  so  that  the  dry- 
ing and  softening  will  be  accomplished  at  the  same  time. 
The  work  may  be  hastened  and  better  results  secured  by 
working  the  oil  into  the  skins  in  specially  constructed  mills. 

Essential  qualities  of  glove  leather. 
The  two  most  essential  qualities  of  glove-leather  are  soft- 
ness and  strength.  Chrome  processes  are  especially  adapted 
to  this  class  of  leather,  as  they  make  soft  tough  leather  that 
is  comparatively  waterproof.  To  a  great  extent,  the  soft- 
ness of  the  leather  is  produced  by  the  nature  of  the  tannage 


316 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  the  methods  used  in  preparing  the  skins  for  tanning. 
Calf-skins  intended  for  glove-leather  are  generally  more 
thoroughly  limed  than  skins  for  shoe  purposes.  To  ac- 
complish the  removal  of  the  hair  and  the  preparation  of 
the  skins  for  tanning,  limes  to  which  sulphide  of  sodium  or 
red  arsenic  had  been  added  are  generally  used.  The  re- 
sults obtained  from  the  use  of  these  two  articles  are  very 
similar,  yet  red  arsenic  is  ofttimes  preferred  to  sulphide  of 
sodium  when  an  extra  fine  grain  is  wanted.  Its  use  readily 
removes  the  hair,  also  the  fine  hairs,  and  leaves  the  skins 
with  considerable  fullness  of  body  and  with  a  smooth 
elastic  grain.  When  the  tanned  leather  is  to  be  colored 
fancy  shades  it  is  very  important  that  clean  soaks  and  limes 
be  used  in  order  to  avoid  clouded  or  mottled  grain,  which 
often  results  when  dirty  soaks  or  limes  are  used.  Lightly 
salted  calf-skins  need  to  be  soaked  only  for  a  few  hours, 
and  should  be  drained  well  before  they  are  passed  into  the 
liming  process.  Borax,  dissolved  and  added  to  the  water 
used  in  these  preliminary  processes,  helps  in  giving  to  the 
skins  the  smooth  and  silky  feel  so  much  desired.  The  liming 
process  need  not  extend  over  eight  days  ;  and  considerable 
lime  should  be  used.  The  placing  of  light  calf-skins  in  a 
very  strong  fresh  lime  at  the  start  frequently  causes  the 
grain  to  become  loose  from  the  flesh,  especially  when  either 
sulphide  of  sodium  or  red  arsenic  is  mixed  with  the  lime. 
For  convenient  handling,  the  skins  are  tied  together  or 
fastened  together  with  hooks  before  they  go  into  the  limes. 
Good  results  are  obtained  from  the  use  of  limes  that  have 
been  used  for  previous  packs  of  skins,  provided  they  are 
kept  clean  and  not  allowed  to  become  full  of  dirt  and  refuse. 

Limes. 

A  good  first  lime  may  consist  of  two-thirds  old  lime  liquor 
and  one-third  new  lime,  that  is,  of  six  feet  of  lime  liquor, 
four  feet  may  be  old  and  two  feet  may  be  new.  When  it 
is  necessary  to  prepare  a  new  lime,  about  one  hundred 


CALFSKINS  FOR  GLOVE  AND  MITTEN  PURPOSES.  317 

pounds  of  lime  are  slaked  in  twelve  pailfuls  of  hot  water. 
To  this  quantity  five  or  six  pounds  of  red  arsenic  are  used. 
It  may  be  dissolved  separately  and  then  mixed  with  the 
slaked  lime.  These  quantities  are  sufficient  for  five  hun- 
dred calf-skins  to  begin  with.  After  being  in  the  lime 
liquor  for  one  day,  the  skins  should  be  hauled  out  and  the 
lime  stirred  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  vat  and  the  liquor 
strengthened  by  the  addition  of  three  or  four  pails  of 
slaked  lime.  The  strength  of  arsenic  limes  at  the  begin- 
^ning  should  be  about  three  degrees  Twaddle,  and  by  daily 
additions  of  lime  and  arsenic  raised  up  to  six  degrees.  The 
strength  is  a  somewhat  arbitrary  matter  and  may  vary  con- 
siderably and  yet  produce  good  results. 

Advantages  of  using  sulphide  of  sodium  aiid  red  arsenic. 
When  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used,  it  is  used  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  red  arsenic.  These  chemicals  not  only 
shorten  the  time  of  liming,  but  they  also  keep  the  grain  from 
becoming  rough  and  by  making  the  lime  more  soluble, 
make  it  easier  for  the  tanner  to  remove  the  lime  without 
injury  to  the  skins.  To  get  soft  leather,  the  lime  must  be 
gotten  entirely  rid  of  before  tanning  by  thorough  drenching. 
Calf-skins,  however,  are  very  tender,  and  require  careful 
treatment  during  this  part  of  the  work.  The  bran  drench 
has  long  been  used.  It  gives  the  skins  a  smooth  soft  grain, 
but  is  somewhat  uncertain  in  its  results.  The  grain  of  the 
skins  is  often  damaged  by  an  undeveloped  bran  drench,  it 
being  veiy  important  that  the  fermentation  be  fully  devel- 
oped before  entering  the  skins,  in  order  for  the  drench  to  do 
its  full  work.  Lactic  acid  is  used  with  good  results  upon 
this  class  of  leather  and,  being  safe  and  simple,  is  a  favorite 
article  for  the  purpose.  The  method  of  using  it  has  been 
fully  described  in  other  parts  of  this  work. 

Pickling  calfskins. 
To  bleach  the  skins,  to  remove  the  last  trace  of  lime  and  to 
get  them  in  such  condition  that  they  will  tan  readily  with- 


818 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


out  contraction  of  the  fibres,  the  skins  may  be  pickled  after 
drenching,  in  a  solution  of  sulphuric  acid,  water  and  salt. 
This  solution  may  consist  of  two  and  one-half  quarts  of 
acid  and  fifty  pounds  of  salt  for  every  one  hundred  skins. 
The  skins  are  left  in  this  liquor,  with  frequent  stirring,  for 
six  hours,  and  are  then  taken  out  and  drained  well  before 
they  are  tanned. 

Making  calfskin  glove  leather  by  a  one-bath  chrome  process. 

The  best  method  of  tanning  the  pickled  skins  with  a  one- 
bath  process  is  carried  out  in  the  following  manner :  The 
skills  are  drummed  for  ten  minutes  in  a  solution  of  salt 
consisting  of  ten  pounds  of  salt  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of 
water  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  Then  they 
are  given  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  sal-soda, 
prepared  by  dissolving,  by  boiling  three  pounds  of  sulphate 
of  alumina  in  five  gallons  of  water,  and  three  pounds  of 
sal-soda  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water,  for  every  one 
hundred  pounds  of  pickled  skins.  The  two  solutions  are 
mixed  slowly  together  and  form  a  milky  white  liquor.  The 
above  liquor  should  be  given  to  the  skins  after  they  have 
been  drummed  in  the  salt  water,  and  drummed  therein  for 
at  least  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Then  the  concentrated 
tanning  liquor  is  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum,  a 
gallon  for  each  hundred  pounds  of  skins  at  a  time,  at  in- 
tervals of  one-half  hour,  and  the  drumming  continued  for 
at  least  three  hours,  or  until  the  skins  are  well  struck 
through  with  the  chrome  liquor,  after  which  one-half  pound 
of  salts  of  tartar  is  dissolved  and  added  to  the  contents  of  the 
drum  and  the  drumming  continued  for  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  This  completes  the  tanning.  The 
skins  tanned  in  this  way  are  of  smooth,  fine  grain  and 
fairly  plump.  They  require  a  very  thorough  washing  be- 
fore they  are  colored,  fat-liquored  and  dried  out. 


CALFSKINS   FOR   GLOVE  AND   MITTEN   PURPOSES.  319 


Other  processes  of  clirome  tanning. 
To  tan  the  calf-skins  without  first  pickling  them  fre- 
quently results  in  the  grain  of  the  leather  being  somewhat 
drawn.  This  is  not  considered  a  serious  defect,  however,  on 
glove  leather.  Sometimes,  too,  the  drenched  skins  are  first 
tanned  in  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  and  this  is  followed 
by  the  chrome  process.  It  usually  requires  about  three 
gallons  of  concentrated  tanning  liquor  to  tan  one  hundred 
pounds  of  skins,  although  the  quantity  varies  according  to 
the  nature  of  the  liquor  used.  Any  of  the  methods  of  tan- 
ning skins  with  one  bath  liquors  that  have  been  described, 
may  be  used  in  making  calf-skin  glove  leather ;  also  any  of 
the  two  bath  or  acid  processes.  When  the  latter  are  used 
no  previous  pickling  is  required.  A  good  suggestion  to 
follow  is  to  sort  the  skins  before  tanning  them,  into  three 
grades,  light,  medium  and  heavy.  The  first  bath  of  chromic 
acid  is  generally  applied  in  a  drum  and  the  second  bath  in 
^  vat.  In  order  to  get  the  colors  right  and  to  encounter  no 
trouble  w^ith  the  fatliquoring  the  skins  must  be  perfectly 
neutral,  free  from  all  acids  and  salts,  before  they  are  colored 
^nd  greased.  Borax  is  very  useful  in  the  washing,  as  it 
not  only  removes  the  acids  and  salts  but  helps  to  make  the 
skins  soft  and  smooth  and  thus  to  take  a  more  even  color. 

Coloring  chrome  tanned  calfskins  for  glove  leather. 
Chrome  tanned  calf-skins  are  generally  mordanted  with 
liquid  extract  of  fustic  or  sumac  before  coloring.  About 
four  ounces  of  these  extracts  are  required  for  each  dozen 
small  light  skins.  The  extract  is  mixed  with  about  ten 
gallons  of  w^arm  water  and  the  leather  drummed  in  the 
solution  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  two  ounces  of  either 
tartar  emetic  or  antimonine  for  each  dozen  skins  are  dis- 
solved in  a  little  water  and  added  to  the  extract  liquor  in 
the  drum  and  the  skins  drummed  for  another  fifteen  min- 
utes, after  which  they  are  washed  off  in  warm  water  and 
colored. 


320 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


A  veiy  soft  and  nearly  white  glove  leather  may  he  made  by 

treating  the  skins  to  a  warm  bath  of  sumac, 
And  after  they  come  from  this  liquor  pressing  out  the  surplus 
sumac  liquor  and  fatliquorizing  the  skins  with  a  mixture  of 
alkaline  soap  and  oil — about  ten  pounds  of  the  former  and 
four  gallons  of  the  latter,  boiled  in  fifty  gallons  of  water.  Or 
the  skins  may  be  taken  from  the  sumac  liquor  and  dyed  any 
desired  shade,  the  sumac  serving  as  a  mordant.  The  most 
common  colors  wanted  on  calfskins  for  glove  purposes  are 
yellows,  tans,  ox  blood  and  olive  shades.  These  are  usually 
applied  before  the  skins  are  fat-liquored,  and  drums  are 
generally  used  for  the  dyeing,  as  more  uniform  results  fol- 
low their  use  than  any  other  method  of  coloring.  Practical 
working  directions  for  dyeing  many  shades  of  glove  leather 
will  be  found  in  other  parts  of  this  work. 

An  excellent  fat-liquor  for  calf-skin  glove-leather  is  made 
of  ten  pounds  of  potash  soap,  four  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil, 
six  pounds  of  egg  yolk  and  six  pounds  of  degras,  completely 
saponified  in  forty  gallons  of  water. 

Calf-skins  are  oil  tanned  and  made  into  exceedingly  soft  and 
durable  leather, 

Very  useful  in  making  gloves  and  mittens.  For  any  pro- 
cess of  oil  tanning  the  skins  should  be  very  thoroughly 
limed  for  eight  or  ten  days  in  red  arsenic  limes.  After 
washing  and  unhairing,  the  skins  should  be  bated  as  low 
and  soft  as  possible.  For  this  purpose  a  manure  bate  may 
used.  It  may  be  used  alone  or  in  conjunction  with  a  bran 
drench  or  a  drench  of  lactic  acid.  Any  other  process  of 
bating  or  drenching  that  makes  the  skins  soft  and  silky 
may  be  used.  A  bran  drench,  also  a  lactic  acid  drench 
may  be  used  alone.  It  is  very  essential  that  all  lime  be 
gotten  rid  of  before  the  skins  are  treated  with  oil.  Before 
the  oil  is  applied,  the  skins  should  be  thoroughly  pressed 
and  as  much  as  possible  of  the  surplus  water  removed  from 
them.    They  may  then  be  given  a  thorough  beating  by 


CALFSKINS  FOR  GLOVE  AND  MITTEN  PURPOSES. 


321 


means  of  an  apparatus  or  machinery  especially  designed 
for  the  purpose,  in  order  to  soften  them,  after  which  they 
are  sprinkled  with  cod  oil  and  are  again  beaten  in  order  to 
force  the  oil  into  the  leather. 

Oils  used  arid  method  of  oil-tanning. 

The  best  grade  of  Newfoundland  cod  oil  is  considered  the 
best  for  the  purpose.  The  process  of  oiling  and  beating  the 
skins  is  repeated  two  or  three  times,  or  until  they  have 
assumed  a  mustard  color  and  have  lost  their  original  odor. 
After  the  oiling  and  beating  are  completed  the  skins  are 
made  to  undergo  a  process  of  heating.  By  this  process  the 
oxidation  of  the  oil,  which  was  begun  during  the  previous 
process,  is  completed  by  the  fermentation  that  takes  place 
in  the  skins.  The  heat  is  generated  spontaneously  and  the 
skins  must  be  closely  watched,  and  frequently  handled  and 
turned  over.  The  highest  temperature  allowable  is  140 
degrees  Fah.;  a  higher  temperature  than  this  seriously  dam- 
ages the  leather.  All  organic  matter  in  the  skins  is  de- 
stroyed. This  process  of  heating  or  fermenting  is  a  very 
delicate  one,  and  upon  its  being  properly  done  depends  the 
success  of  the  leather. 

Unless  sufficient  heat  is  generated  the  skins  will  rot,  and 
when  too  much  heat  is  produced,  they  become  dissolved. 
When  the  fermentation  ceases  and  the  skins  are  no  longer 
susceptible  of  heating,  they  are  treated  to  remove  excess  of 
oil.  This  is  done  by  washing  them  in  hot  water  and  then 
subjecting  them  to  great  pressure  by  means  of  a  hydraulic 
press.  A  great  deal  of  grease  is  squeezed  out  in  this  way, 
and  the  grease  so  produced  is  known  as  degras.  The  sur- 
plus oil  may  also  be  removed  by  washing  the  skins  in  a 
solution  of  soda  ash  which  causes  the  grease  to  saponify. 
The  saponified  oil  removed  by  pressure  is  neutralized  with 
sulphuric  acid  and  becomes  the  oil  known  as  sod  oil.  A 
certain  proportion  of  the  oil  must,  of  course,  remain  in  the 
leather  so  as  to  give  it  softness.  The  finishing  process  con- 
21 


322 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


sists  of  drying  out  the  skins,  working  them  soft  and  remov- 
ing all  unevenness  and  particles  of  flesh. 

Bleaching  the  skins. 
When  it  is  desired  to  bleach  the  skins,  it  may  be  done  by 
sprinkling  them  with  water  and  exposing  them  to  the  sun, 
or  by  treatment  with  a  weak  solution  of  permanganate  of 
potash,  followed  by  a  treatment  with  diluted  sulphuric  acid, 
or  the  leather  may  be  treated  with  sulphurous  acid  in  the 
form  of  gas.  The  methods  followed  in  handling  the  skins 
vary.  In  some  instances  the  skins  are  hung  up  in  warm 
closed  rooms,  instead  of  being  placed  in  piles  to  ferment. 

Yellow  ochre. 

Yellow  ochre  has  been  used  in  the  last  treatment  with 
oil,  and  gives  to  the  leather  a  decided  yellow  color.  The 
yellow  color  acquired  by  the  skins,  during  the  treatment 
with  oil,  is,  however,  the  only  coloring  generally  required. 

Other  processes  for  soft  and  tough  leather. 
Very  soft  tough  leather  may  be  made  by  treating  calf-skins 
with  a  mixture  composed  of  four  pounds  of  alum,  six 
pounds  of  salt,  twenty  pounds  of  wheat  flour,  and  twelve 
pounds  of  egg  yolk,  thoroughly  mingled  together  in  twelve 
gallons  of  water,  and  used  for  each  hundred  pounds  of  skins 
at  a  temperature  of  90  degrees.  The  skins  are  drummed 
in  this  mixture  for  thirty  minutes  to  one  hour,  and  then 
hung  up  and  dried  out.  Instead  of  twelve  pounds  of  egg- 
yolk,  six  pounds  of  the  same  and  six  pounds  of  olive  oil 
may  be  used.  After  being  left  in  the  dry  state  for  some 
months  to  cure,  the  skins  may  be  worked  out  soft  and  fin- 
ished without  further  treatment,  or  they  may  be  washed  in 
warm  water  and  tanned  in  a  one-bath  chrome  process,  and 
colored  and  finished  as  chrome  leather.  The  soluble  oils, 
known  as  Turkey-red  or  alizarine  oils,  may  be  used  with 
good  results  in  place  of  the  egg-yolk.  They  may  also  be 
used  on  chrome  tanned  skins  instead  of  emulsions  of  soap 
and  oil. 


CALFSKINS   FOE  GLOVE   AND   MITTEN   PUKl^OSES.  32o 

Other  oil  processes. 

Calf-skins  may  be  oil-tanned  by  being  passed  through  or 
treated  in  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  the  above  named  oils. 
When  vats  or  tubs  are  used  the  skins  are  pressed  after  bat- 
ing and  washing,  and  soaked  in  a  twenty-five  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  the  oil,  warm.  The  oil  can  also  be  applied  to  the 
skins  in  a  drum.  After  the  treatment  with  oil  the  skins 
are  dried  out  and  placed  in  a  heap  in  a  moderately  warm 
room  and  covered  up.  They  are  then  hung  up  in  the 
air  and  allowed  to  dry  slowly,  after  which  they  are  treated 
with  the  oil  in  the  same  manner  as  at  first,  being  first 
washed  in  an  alkaline  solution.  They  are  then  allowed 
to  heat  by  being  placed  in  piles  and  covered  up,  dried  again 
and  then  washed  in  a  weak  solution  of  borax  or  other  alkali. 
By  drying  and  working  the  skins  are  made  very  soft  and 
completely  oil  tanned. 

The  results  may  be  changed  by  greater  or  less  concentra- 
tion of  the  oil  solution,  by  higher  temperatures  in  drying 
and  by  a  greater  number  of  applications  of  the  oil.  The 
skins  may  also  be  tanned  by  a  combination  of  the  oil  with 
the  salts  of  alumina.  The  preferred  method  of  doing  this 
is  to  steep  the  prepared  skins  in  a  solution  containing  pre- 
ferably fifteen  per  cent,  of  the  soluble  oil  and  then  drying 
them  out.  The  operation  may  be  repeated  and  then  the 
usual  method  of  tanning  with  alumina  salts  proceeded  with 
in  the  ordinary  w^ay.  Heavy  calf-skins  are  split  after  lim- 
ing. The  grain  is  tanned  into  shoe  or  fancy  leather,  and  the 
flesher  is  made  into  glove  leather.  Any  process  that  can 
be  used  upon  grain  skins  can  be  applied  to  the  flesher  with 
equally  good  results. 

Yellow  Calf-skin  Glove  Leather. 
Chrome-tanned  calf-skins  ma^'  be  colored  ^^ellow  and 
finished  into  glove  and  mitten  leather  by  the  following 
method  : 

For  each  dozen  skins  of  medium  size  four  ounces  of  Sul- 


824 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


famine  Yellow  D  are  used.  The  dye  is  used  in  solution  at 
a  temperature  of  130°  F.  A  small  quantity  of  carbonate  of 
ammonia  added  to  the  color  solution  assists  in  getting  the 
leather  penetrated  with  the  dye  ;  but  this  may  be  neutral- 
ized afterwards  by  a  little  acetic  acid.  A  light  yellow,  of  a 
greenish  cast,  is  obtained  by  using  five  ounces  of  Sulfamine 
Yellow  A. 

A  good  fat-liquor  to  use  upon  this  class  of  leather  is  made 
of  egg-yolk  and  neatsfoot  or  olive  oil. 


CHAPTER  XVIIL 


TANNING  FURS  AND  HAIR-SKINS. 

In  any  process  of  tanning  furs  and  hair-skins,  the  first 
thing  to  be  done  is  a  soaking  and  softening  of  the  raw  skins. 
When  the  skins  are  fresh  or  lightly  salted  this  consumes 
but  a  short  time,  a  few  hours ;  but  when  they  are  hard  and 
dry  a  longer  time  is  required.  By  adding  either  borax  or 
sal-soda  to  the  water,  and  by  using  the  water  warm,  the 
hardest  skins  can  be  thoroughly  softened  and  cleansed  in  a 
few  hours.  After  softening,  the  useless  parts  of  the  skins 
should  be  removed,  and  all  lumps  of  fat  and  flesh  removed 
by  fleshing.  Then  the  skins  are  ready  to  be  tanned.  This 
may  be  very  readily  and  cheaply  done  in  a  solution  of  salt 
and  alum,  although  skins  tanned  in  salt  and  alum  gather 
moisture  in  damp  weather  and  therefore  have  unpleasant 
features.  A  solution  may  be  made  of  one-fourth  pound  of 
salt,  and  one-fourth  pound  of  alum,  and  one-half  ounce 
borax,  dissolved  in  hot  water.  Sufficient  meal  may  be 
added  to  make  a  thick  paste.  One  way  of  applying  this 
paste  is  to  spread  it  evenly  over  the  flesh  side  of  the  skins, 
folding  them  lengthwise  with  the  fur  on  the  outside  and 
letting  them  lie  for  a  few  days,  then  to  remove  the  paste, 
and  dry  out  the  skins  and  work  them  soft  and  clean.  For 
heavy  skins  a  second  application  of  the  paste  may  be  neces- 
sary. The  ingredients  of  the  paste  may  be  made  into  a 
liquor,  and  the  skins  immersed  therein,  light  skins  requir- 
ing about  one  day,  and  heavy  skins  longer.  When  they 
are  removed  from  the  liquor  the  skins  should  be  hung  up 
and  dried,  and  as  they  dry  they  should  be  pulled  and 
stretched  by  any  suitable  means  until  they  are  both  dry  and 
soft.    Then  they  may  be  cleaned  and  further  softened  by  a 

(325) 


326 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


running  in  dry  saw-dust  in  a  drum  especially  constructed 
for  the  purpose,  and  then  the  saw-dust  may  be  removed 
by  running  the  skins  in  an  open  drum,  by  means  of  which 
they  are  pounded  and  softened  and  the  saw-dust  allowed  to 
fall  out.  On  some  classes  of  skins,  such  as  calf-skins,  sev- 
eral days  are  required  in  the  tanning  liquor,  and  the  liquor 
needs  to  be  strengthened  with  salt  and  alum,  in  the  same 
proportions  and  quantities  as  first  put  in,  and  after  the 
tanning  is  completed  and  before  the  skins  have  become 
quite  dry,  a  coat  of  mineral  oil  may  be  put  on  the  flesh 
side,  and  after  this  has  dried  in,  the  skins  may  be  worked 
and  cleaned.  Such  skins  as  raccoon,  fox,  dog,  wolf  or  coy- 
ote, and  small  light  skins,  such  as  mink,  rabbit  and  mole- 
skins, do  not  require  any  oil  or  grease  to  make  them  soft. 
Kangaroo,  wombat,  deer-skins  and  calf-skins,  however,  need 
the  oil  in  order  to  make  them  soft  and  pliable. 

The  skins  may  also  be  tanned  in  the  following  manner  ; 

Equal  parts  of  borax,  saltpetre  and  glauber  salts  (sulphate 
of  soda),  about  one-third  of  an  ounce  for  each  skin,  are 
made  with  water  into  a  paste,  and  this  is  spread  over  the 
inside  of  the  skins,  more  being  applied  on  the  thick  than 
on  the  thin  parts.  The  skins  are  folded  together  and  left 
in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  they  are  scraped 
and  rinsed  off  and  the  following  mixture  applied  in  the 
same  manner  as  before  :  One  ounce  of  either  sal-soda  or 
borax,  two  ounces  of  hard  white  soap,  melted  slowly  to- 
gether without  being  allowed  to  boil.  The  skins  are  left 
with  this  mixture  upon  them  for  twenty-four  hours.  After 
this  they  are  put  into  a  solution  composed  of  three  ounces 
of  alum,  six  ounces  of  salt,  dissolved  in  sufficient  hot  water 
to  cover  the  skins.  When  this  liquor  is  cooled  down  to 
ninety  degrees,  the  skins  may  be  immersed  therein  for 
twelve  hours,  after  which  they  are  wrung  out  and  dried. 
The  skins  may  require  to  be  put  back  in  the  liquor  for  a 
few  hours  longer,  depending  upon  their  condition.  The 


TANNING  FUllS  AND  HAIR-SKINS. 


327 


flesh  side  after  drying  may  be  cleaned  and  made  smooth 
with  sandpaper  or  pumice  stone. 

The  ingredients  of  the  paste  may  be  made  into  a  liquor 
and  used  warm,  and  the  skins  left  therein  for  twenty-four 
hours.  This  method  of  tanning  makes  the  skins  very  soft, 
the  hair  is  finel}^  set,  and  has  a  peculiar  gloss  that  is  espec- 
ially desirable. 

This  method  also  produces  good  results. 

Bran  and  soft  water  are  well  mixed  together.  The  skins 
are  immersed  in  the  liquor  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  they 
are  removed  and  placed  in  a  liquor  made  up  of  one  pound 
of  alum  and  one-half  pound  of  salt  in  two  gallons  of  hot 
water.  When  this  is  cooled  down,  the  skins  are  put  in  and 
left  therein  for  twenty-four  hours.  They  may  be  given  an 
additional  liquor  of  oatmeal  and  warm  water,  after  which 
they  are  wrung  out  and  dried.  This  leaves  the  skins  white 
and  soft  and  ready  for  immediate  use. 

A  good  tanning  mixture  is  made  of  salt,  alum  and  sul- 
phuric or  muriaiic  acid  in  proportion  of  one  pound  of 
salt,  two  pounds  of  alum  and  one-half  pint  acid  for  about 
fifty  skins,  such  as  raccoon  and  wombat,  or  five  to  ten  calf- 
skins. The  skins  are  left  in  this  liquor,  being  occasionally 
stirred  about  for  two  or  three  days,  when  chey  are  removed, 
partly  dried  and  shaved  or  cut  down  to  a  satisfactory  thick- 
ness. Then  they  may  be  put  back  into  a  liquor  prepared 
as  the  first  for  another  day,  then  dried  out,  oiled  and  worked 
soft.  A  mixture  of  soap  and  oil  may  be  used  to  grease  the 
skins,  or  oil  may  be  used  alone. 

A  process  for  hair  skins  and  hides  for  robes. 
Hides  for  robes  and  all  classes  of  hair  skins  may  be 
nicely  tanned  in  a  liquor  composed  of  one  part  alum,  one 
part  salt,  one-quarter  to  one-half  part  japonica,  gambler  or 
other  tanning  material.  These  are  dissolved  in  hot  water 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  make  a  thirty -five  degree  liquor. 
Hides  require  to  be  left  in  this  liquor  from  five  to  ten  days. 


328 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


8kins  are  finished  in  from  two  to  three  days.  In  tanning 
hides  for  robes  or  coats,  shaving  or  dressing  down  is  an  im- 
important  part  of  the  process.  Before  this  is  done,  the  hides 
should  be  partly  dried,  and  after  shaving  they  should  be 
put  back  into  the  tan  liquor  for  a  day  or  two,  then  hung  up 
and  dried  out.  After  drying  they  should  be  moistened  back 
and  given  a  heavy  coat  of  oil.  Soap  is  also  sometimes 
used.  After  drying  the  second  time  the  hides  or  skins 
should  be  worked  soft  and  run  in  a  drum  or  wheel  until 
thoroughly  soft  and  clean.  The  composition  of  the  tanning 
liquor  may  be  changed  considerably.  The  use  of  japonica 
makes  the  hides  more  capable  of  resisting  w^ater,  as  the  alum 
and  salt  are  readily  soaked  out  by  rain.  In  tanning  calf-skins 
and  other  skins  in  the  hair,  the  tan  liquor  acts  only  upon 
the  flesh  side,  and  the  hair  will  consequently  be  apt  to  slip 
before  the  tan  reaches  the  roots.  All  unnecessary  handling 
should  be  avoided  and  the  tanning  done  as  rapidly  as  possible 
so  as  to  give  the  hair  no  chance  to  fall  out.  The  hair  may 
be  readily  set  by  leaving  the  skins  for  a  few  hours  in  a 
strong  alum  and  salt  liquor,  before  they  are  placed  in  the 
other  tanning  material,  japonica  or  whatever  may  be  used. 
A  mixture  of  hemlock  and  quebracho  extracts  may  be  used  ; 
also  palmetto  extract  either  alone  or  in  combination  with 
other  tannages.  The  application  of  oil  or  grease  can  only 
be  done  upon  the  grain  side,  and  after  the  skins  have 
been  dried  out  and  moistened  back.  AVarm  soapsuds  are 
used,  also  a  mixture  of  oil  and  soap,  made  up  of  ten  pounds 
of  potash  soft  soap  and  four  gallons  of  cod,  sod  or  neatsfoot 
oil,  boiled  together  into  an  emulsion,  after  which  water  is 
run  in  to  make  a  total  of  twenty-five  gallons.  The  soften- 
ing and  cleaning  of  the  hides  or  skins  is  best  done  in  speci- 
ally constructed  drums  or  wheels,  in  which  the  hides  or 
skins  are  milled  in  clear  dry  sawdust,  and  the  sawdust  then 
cleaned  out  of  the  hair  in  an  open  wheel  or  drum. 

Dry  hides  and  skins  may  be  softened  in  a  solution  of  sul- 
phuric acid  and  water,  until  they  are  sw^ollen  and  plumped. 


TANNING   FURS  AND  HAIR-SKINS.  o2i) 

Then  the  acid  may  be  neutralized  by  a  soda  or  borax  bath  ; 
the  swelling  is  also  reduced.  The  soda  or  borax  may  then 
be  removed  by  washing  in  clear  water. 

In  using  a  gambler  or  other  similar  liquor  in  tanning 
furs  and  hair-skins,  the  skins  should  first  be  soaked  soft  and 
clean  and  then  fleshed.  A  gambler  liquor  of  about  three 
degrees  strength  may  be  used  at  the  start ;  the  skins  han- 
dled every  two  or  three  hours  until  the  strength  is  reduced 
to  one  degree.  Then  a  six  degree  liquor  may  be  used,  and 
in  about  forty-eight  hours  the  skins  will  be  tanned.  Heavy 
skins  require  more  time.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  leave  the 
skins  in  a  strong  alum  and  salt  liquor  for  an  hour  or  two 
before  tanning  them  with  gambler,  as  this  serves  to  set  the 
hair  firmly.  When  the  skins  are  fully  tanned  they  should 
be  dried  out  and  worked  soft  and  clean  ;  then  a  mixture  of 
oil  and  soap  may  be  applied,  made  up  of  one  and  one-fourth 
pound  of  castile  soap,  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  water,  and 
mixed  with  one  pint  of  paraffine  oil.  Other  oils  may  be 
used  alone  and  the  soap  omitted,  very  little  oil  being  re- 
quired to  make  the  skins  soft. 

THE  TANNING  OF  HIDES  FOR  ROBES,  COATS,  ETC. 

Hides  intended  to  be  tanned  with  the  hair  upon  them, 
and  used  in  the  manufacture  of  coats  and  robes,  should  be 
soaked  in  fresh  water  before  they  are  tanned,  in  order  to 
rid  them  of  dirt,  blood  and  other  undesirable  substances 
adhering  to  them.  They  should  be  soaked  long  enough  to 
become  thoroughly  softened,  the  length  of  time  varying 
from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours.  Dry  hides  are  much 
more  difficult  to  soften  than  salted  ones.  Borax  is  use- 
ful in  softening  dry  hides,  also  a  strong  solution  of  salt  and 
water.  When  borax  is  used,  from  five  to  six  pounds  are 
dissolved  in  hot  water  and  poured  into  the  water  to  be 
used  for  soaking  and  vigorously  stirred  throughout  the 
same,  the  quantity  of  borax  mentioned  being  enough  for 
one  thousand  gallons  of  water.    The  effectiveness  of  the 


330 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


borax  soak  is  increased  when  the  temperature  of  the  same 
is  raised  with  steam  to  about  ninety  degrees  Fah.  The 
hides  may  be  left  in  the  soak  for  twelve  hours  and  should 
then  be  worked  upon  the  beam  or  milled  in  a  drum  in  a 
solution  of  borax  and  water,  or  they  may  be  softened  in  a 
hide  mill.  After  the  milling,  the  hides  require  further 
soaking  in  the  vats  according  to  their  condition.  When  a 
salt  solution  is  used,  it  should  be  made  up  in  a  vat  and 
sufficient  salt  should  be  used  to  make  the  liquor  decidedly 
salty.  The  hides  may  be  left  in  the  brine  for  from  twelve 
to  twenty-four  hours,  then  milled  in  a  pin-mill  drum  in  a 
salt  solution  for  thirty  minutes,  and  then  put  back  into  the 
brine  for  another  twelve  or  twenty-four  hours.  This 
method  of  softening  is  very  satisfactory.  After  the  soaking 
is  completed,  the  hides  should  be  fleshed  and  all  flesh  and 
lumps  of  fat  removed  from  them  before  they  are  tanned. 

Sometimes  hides  are  received  by  tanners  in  a  partially 
tanned  condition,  that  is,  some  one  has  attempted  to  tan 
the  hides  without  sufficient  knowledge  or  without  the  facil- 
ities necessary  to  do  the  work.  In  order  to  soften  and 
cleanse  such  hides  so  that  they  can  be  readily  tanned  and 
finished,  they  should  be  placed  in  a  pin-mill  drum  with 
either  a  borax  solution  or  a  solution  of  salt  and  water  and 
milled  in  the  same  until  sufficiently  softened.  The  hides 
must  be  watched,  however,  to  see  that  the  hair  does  not  be- 
come loosened  by  the  violent  treatment  in  the  mill.  There 
are  various  ways  of  tanning  hides  with  the  hair  on.  A 
very  common  method  is  by  the  use  of  alum  and  salt. 
This  is  really  more  of  a  curing  than  a  tanning  process. 
While  the  hides  can  be  made  very  soft  and  strong  by  the 
use  of  alum  and  salt,  they  have  one  very  objectionable 
feature.  They  gather  moisture  and  become  heavy  and 
damp  in  moist  weather. 

A  lum  and  salt  process. 
In  applying  the  alum  and  salt  process,  the  hides  are 


TANNING  FURS  AND  HAIR-SKINS. 


331 


taken  after  being  fleshed,  and  are  immersed  in  a  foirly 
strong  solution  of  alum  and  salt,  care  being  taken  to  expose 
all  parts  of  the  flesh  side  to  the  liquor  so  that  the  hair  roots 
may  become  firmly  fixed  and  hair  slipping  avoided.  The 
hides  should  be  given  plenty  of  room  in  the  liquor,  so  thai 
they  can  be  handled  about,  once  in  a  while  and  their  posi- 
tions changed.  It  is  good  practice  to  hang  the  hides  upon 
sticks  and  suspend  them  in  the  liquor.  The  strength  of 
the  alum  and  salt  solution  is  a  matter  of  judgment.  The 
stronger  it  is,  the  more  readily  it  will  penetrate  into  the 
hides  and  the  less  will  be  the  time  consumed  by  the  pro- 
cess. Perhaps  as  good  a  rule  to  follow  as  any  is  to  use 
twice  as  much  salt  as  alum.  Hides  may  be  well  struck 
through  with  a  liquor  made  up  of  six  pounds  of  alum  and 
twelve  pounds  of  salt  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  hides 
to  be  tanned.  The  hides  should  be  left  in  the  liquor  until 
they  have  become  permeated  with  it,  the  length  of  time 
required  to  accomplish  this  depending  upon  the  thickness 
of  the  hides  and  the  strength  of  alum  and  salt  liquor,  after 
which  they  should  be  soaked  for  ten  minutes  in  clean  cold 
water,  drained  and  hung  up  to  dry.  When  they  have  be- 
come about  two-thirds  dry  they  should  be  laid  in  piles  for 
a  few  days  to  become  uniformly  soft  and  moist,  before  they 
are  dressed  down  to  the  desired  substance.  While  they  are 
lying  in  piles  they  must  be  watched  and  occasionally 
handled,  especially  in  warm  w^eather,  to  prevent  heating, 
which  always  causes  more  or  less  damage,  according  to  the 
degree  of  heat  developed. 

The  dressing  or  cutting  down  to  a  light  substance  is  gen- 
erally done  by  hand.  This  work  requires  considerable  skill 
and  judgment  in  order  that  the  hide  may  be  smooth  and 
of  even  thickness  and  free  from  holes.  After  the  hides 
have  been  cut  or  dressed  down,  it  is  necessary  to  retan 
them.  This  may  be  done  in  various  ways.  The  hides  may 
be  placed  back  in  the  alum  and  salt  solution  ;  they  may  be 
retanned  with  alum  and  salt  in  a  pin-mill  drum  ;  sulphate 


332 


PRACriCAL  TANNING. 


of  alumina  and  salt,  followed  by  a  treatment  with  hyposul- 
phite of  soda,  may  be  used  ;  and  the  retanning  may  also  be 
done  in  pin-mill  drums  with  a  solution  of  gambier  and  salt, 
or  a  combination  of  quebracho  and  hemlock  liquors.  Que- 
bracho extract  being  a  good  tanner  and  making  soft  stock, 
may  be  used  alone. 

A  good  method  of  retanning  the  hides 
Is  to  place  them  in  a  pin-mill  drum  with  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina  and  salt,  made  up  in  the  proportions  of  four 
pounds  of  the  alumina  and  eight  pounds  of  salt,  dissolved, 
and  mixed  into  twenty  gallons  of  water  for  every  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  hides.  In  this  solution  the  hides  may  be 
drummed  from  thirty  minutes  to  one  hour.  Then  for  every 
one  hundred  pounds  of  stock  in  the  drum  ten  pounds  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda  may  be  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  warm 
w^ater  and  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum.  A  further 
drumming  for  thirty  minutes  completes  the  process,  and 
secures  a  permanent  fixation  of  the  tanning  materials  upon 
the  fibres  of  the  hides.  Taken  from  the  drum  the  hides 
should  be  dipped  singly  into  cold  water  to  remove  surplus 
tanning  materials,  drained,  hung  up  and  dried.  When  they 
are  nearly  dry  and  yet  retaining  some  moisture,  they  should 
be  stuffed  with  oil  or  grease  and  then  dried  thoroughly, 
after  which  they  require  thorough  working  to  regain  their 
softness  lost  during  drying,  and  also  a  thorough  cleaning  in 
dry  sawdust.  By  a  retannage  of  gambler  and  salt,  the  un- 
pleasant features  of  alum-tanned  stock  are  prevented,  and 
the  hides  made  permanently  soft  and  strong.  The  gambler 
and  salt  liquor  may  be  applied  to  the  hides  either  in  drums 
or  in  vats,  the  process  being  carried  along  until  the  liquor 
has  thoroughly  permeated  the  hides,  then  they  may  be  left 
in  piles  for  forty-eight  hours,  drained  well  and  hung  up  to 
dry. 

A  combination  liquor  of  quebracho  and  hemlock  extract 
Produces  good  results.    About  two-thirds  of  the  liquor 


TANNING   FURS  AND  HAIR-SKINS. 


338 


should  be  quebracho  and  one-third  should  be  hemlock  ;  one 
supplements  the  other.  A  weak  solution  of  quebracho 
extract  may  be  used  alone.  These  vegetable  tanning 
materials  may  be  used  in  drums  or  vats. 

Softening  the  stock. 

For  the  purpose  of  imparting  softness  to  the  stock  oils  of 
various  descriptions  may  be  used,  also  combinations  of 
tallow,  soap  and  oil.  Fish  oils  are  very  satisfactory,  but 
somewhat  too  expensive.  Mineral  oils  of  good  quality  pro- 
duce good  results.  A  heavy  coat  of  the  oil  should  be 
given  to  the  hides  upon  the  flesh  side.  Any  excess  of 
water  should  be  guarded  against  in  the  hides,  as  this  pre- 
vents the  proper  absorption  of  the  oil.  The  oil  should  be 
allowed  to  penetrate  into  the  hides  by  slow  drying  after 
which  the  stock  should  be  left  in  the  dry  condition  for  some 
time  before  it  is  finished.  The  longer  the  hides  are  kept 
in  the  dry  condition,  the  softer  they  will  be  when  they  are 
finally  finished. 

The  softening  and  cleaning  of  the  hides  is  best  accomp- 
lished in  revolving  mills  or  drums  especially  constructed 
for  the  purpose.  The  oil,  grease  and  dirt  are  taken  up  by 
dry  sawdust  in  a  closed  drum,  and  in  an  open  drum  the 
sawdust  carrying  the  oil  and  grease  with  it,  is  cleaned  out 
of  the  stock.  The  cleaning  process  needs  to  be  repeated  two 
or  three  times  to  get  the  stock  perfectly  clean  and  soft. 

Calf-skins  and  other  hair  skins  may  be  tanned  in  the 
manners  suggested  for  heavy  hides.  In  the  case  of  alum- 
tanned  stock,  some  yellow  ochre  may  be  added  to  the  saw- 
dust and  gives  to  the  flesh  side  a  desirable  yellow  color. 

Dyeing  with  Ursol  dyes. 
Hair  skins  and  hides,  after  cleaning  and  softening,  may 
be  readily  colored  by  the  use  of  the  dyes  known  as  Ursol 
colors,  made  in  Germany.  Ursol  D,  used  with  bichromate 
of  potash  as  a  mordant,  produces  black.  The  dyeing  is 
best  done  by  brushing  the  dye  solution  into  the  hair  until 


334 


pra(;tical  tanning. 


it  becomes  saturated  with  the  liquor.  When  dried  out, 
the  color  of  the  hair  will  be  black  through  and  through. 
Sometimes  more  than  one  application  of  the  dye  is  required 
to  get  the  right  shade.  Ursol  dyes  are  not  difficult  to  use. 
Any  tanner,  by  close  attention  and  study,  can  soon  learn  to 
get  just  the  results  he  desires  with  them.  The  hair  must 
be  free  from  grease,  clean  and  dry,  and  by  a  process  of 
killing,"  prepared  to  receive  the  d3'e.  To  accomplish 
these  results,  a  compound  of  sal-ammoniac,  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  lime  may  be  used,  the  lime  being  the  milk  of 
lime,  obtained  by  slaking  common  white  lime  with  hot 
water.  The  solution  prepared  of  these  ingredients  is  ap- 
plied to  the  hair  with  brushes,  after  which  the  hide  or  skin 
is  dried  in  a  cool,  shady  place ;  and  then  cleaned  by 
thorough  dusting  and  beating  and  is  then  ready  for  the 
color  solution.  Ursol  dyes  are  used  in  different  ways  and 
in  varying  combinations.  In  some  cases  no  mordanting  of 
the  hair  is  necessary,  in  others  a  solution  of  bichromate  of 
potash  and  cream  of  tartar  is  used,  not  only  to  serve  as  a 
mordant  for  the  dye,  but  to  reduce  the  quantity  of  coloring 
material  required.  Sulphate  of  iron  and  sulphate  of  cop« 
per  may  also  be  used  as  mordants.  The  skins  may  be  im- 
mersed in  the  mordanting  liquor,  and  left  therein  from  six- 
to  twelve  hours,  then  washed  off  and  dyed. 

Ursol  D,  for  black  dyeing,  is  used  in  combination  with 
peroxide  of  hydrogen,  and  water.  The  dye  liquor  can  be 
used  very  liberally  upon  the  hair  side  only,  and  should  be 
well  brushed  into  the  hair  so  as  to  dye  the  entire  hair.  The 
hair  can  also  be  merely  tipped  with  the  dye  liquor,  when 
tip  dyeing  is  considered  all  that  is  necessary. 

The  proportions  of  the  mordanting  materials  may  be  : 
One  ounce  of  bichromate  of  potash,  one-half  ounce  cream 
of  tartar  in  twelve  quarts  of  water.  Of  the  dye  liquor — 
one  ounce  Ursol  D,  three  pints  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen,  and 
twelve  quarts  of  water.  After  the  dyeing  materials  become 
dry  the  hides  and  skins  should  be  thoroughly  washed, 
dried  and  cleaned. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


KANGAROO  LEATHER. 

The  skin  of  the  kangaroo  is  characterized  by  great  sup- 
pleness, toughness  of  fibre,  and  by  a  grain  several  times 
thicker  than  the  grain  of  any  other  kind  of  skin.  The 
grain,  after  tanning,  is  also  very  compact,  and  resists  the 
penetration  of  water  and  moisture.  On  account  of  these 
peculiarities  kangaroo  leather  is  splendid  shoe  material, 
standing  in  a  class  by  itself,  and  especially  adapted  for  shoes 
for  tender  feet.  At  the  present  time  kangaroo  leather  is 
made  by  chrome,  gambler  and  similar  tannages,  and  by 
combinations  of  chrome  and  vegetable  processes ;  and  is 
finished  in  a  number  of  ways,  dull,  bright  glazed,  half 
bright,  patent  and  enamelled. 

The  skins  are  received  by  the  tanner  in  dry  condition, 
having  been  dried  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  animal,  to 
prevent  spoiling.  They  are  very  hard  and  dry  and  almost 
waterproof,  resisting  the  penetration  of  water  to  an  unusual 
degree.  Clear  water  softens  the  skins  ver}^  slowly.  It  is 
therefore  good  practice  to  hasten  the  soaking  and  softening 
by  the  addition  of  solutions  of  chemicals  to  the  water,  be- 
fore the  skins  are  put  in.  Borax  and  sulphide  of  sodium 
have  proved  very  satisfactory  for  this  purpose.  When  borax 
is  used,  five  pounds  are  enough  for  one  thousand  gallons  of 
water,  dissolved  in  a  pail  and  poured  into  the  soak  vat  and 
vigorously  stirred.  Borax  thoroughly  softens  the  water, 
and  helps  in  giving  the  skins  a  soft,  silky  grain. 

Softening  the  skins. 

When  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used  one  or  two  pounds 
ma}^  be  added  to  every  one  hundred  gallons  of  water.  Soak 

( 335 ) 


336 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


water  prepared  with  sulphide  of  sodium  readily  softens  the 
hardest  skins  and  brings  them  back  to  the  natural  soft  con- 
dition in  a  short  time,  also  freshening  up  the  dried  and 
withered  grain. 

The  skins  may  also  be  softened  in  a  strong  brine  or  solu- 
tion of  salt  and  water.  This  readily  penetrates  the  skins 
and  opens  them  out.  The  salt  water  should  be  removed  by 
washing  in  clean  water,  before  the  skins  are  further  treated. 

When  any  of  these  articles  are  used  to  assist  in  the  soft- 
ening it  is  seldom  necessary  to  mill  the  skins  in  the  hide- 
mill.  If  the  skins  soften  slowly  they  may  be  taken  out  of 
the  water  at  the  end  of  say  twenty-four  hours  and  worked 
in  the  mill,  or  drummed  in  pin-mill  drums  for  a  few  min- 
utes and  then  put  back  in  the  vat  until  they  are  thoroughly 
soft  and  supple.  It  is  not  best  to  use  foul  soaks,  that  is 
soaks  in  which  previous  packs  of  skins  have  been  soaked. 
Dried  skins  become  soft  in  such  soaks  in  a  very  short  time, 
but  often  at  the  expense  of  some  important  quality  of  the 
leather,  that  does  not  show  until  after  the  skins  are  tanned 
and  perhaps  not  until  they  are  finished,  and  then  no  one 
can  tell  what  was  the  cause. 

Depilatimg. 

After  soaking,  the  skins  should  be  drained,  and  then 
fleshed  and  lumps  of  fat  and  flesh  removed  from  them. 
Then  they  are  ready  for  the  process  of  depilating.  This 
may  be  carried  out  in  a  number  of  ways.  If  it  is  not  de- 
sired to  save  the  hair,  a  vat  ma}^  be  filled  with  water,  and 
for  every  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  in  the  vat  from  ten 
to  fifteen  pounds  of  sulphide  of  sodium  and  a  few  pailfuls 
of  lime  added.  The  sulphide  of  sodium  should  be  thor- 
oughly dissolved,  and  the  liquor  well  stirred,  then  the  skins 
put  in.  In  from  twenty-four  to  forty-eight  hours  the  hair 
will  become  dissolved  sufficiently  to  allow  it  to  be  readily 
washed  off'.  After  this  the  skins  may  be  very  lightly  limed 
for  a  few  days.    When  this  method  of  unhairing  is  used. 


KANGAKOO  LPJATHER. 


337 


the  skins  need  not  be  soft  before  they  are  put  in  the  liquor, 
but  may  be  left  in  until  they  are  soft  and  plump.  The 
skins  should  not  be  allowed  to  dry  out  nor  harden,  and 
must  be  entirely  soft  and  plump  before  they  are  placed  in 
the  lime.  Very  little  lime  is  needed.  About  two  buckets 
of  lime  are  slacked  in  one-third  of  a  barrel  of  water.  This 
is  put  into  sufficient  water  and  will  answer  for  three  hun- 
dred skins.  The  skins  should  be  left  in  this  lime  for  one 
day,  then  taken  out  and  the  liquor  strengthened  up  with 
the  same  quantity  of  lime  that  was  put  in  at  the  first.  Be- 
fore the  skins  are  put  back  the  lime  should  be  thoroughly 
stirred  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  vat.  On  the  third  day 
the  skins  should  be  again  pulled  out,  the  lime  strengthened, 
and  the  skins  put  back.  Or  the  skins  may  be  reeled  from 
one  lime  to  another  each  day  ;  the  first  lime  being  rather 
weak,  and  the  second,  third  and  fourth  limes  of  gradually 
increasing  strength.  Four  to  five  days  in  the  liming  pro- 
cess is  generally  enough  for  ordinary  skins.  Very  heavy 
skins  may  be  limed  for  six  or  eight  days.  After  a  pack  of 
skins  is  limed,  the  liquor  may  be  used  for  another  lot  of 
skins  by  running  out  about  one-half  of  the  liquor  and 
replacing  it  with  water,  and  the  work  proceeded  with  as 
before. 

Kangaroo  skins  limed  in  arsenic  limes. 

Kangaroo  skins  are  also  very  satisfactorily  prepared 
for  tanning  by  the  use  of  limes  to  which  red  arsenic  has 
been  added.  The  skins,  owing  to  their  tough  and  com- 
pact grain,  are  not  readily  injured  by  strong  liquors,  and 
the  process  can  be  completed  in  a  few  days.  The  use  of  red 
arsenic  in  connection  with  lime  makes  the  grain  fine  and 
soft,  and  shortens  the  time  of  liming.  The  arsenic  limes 
may  be  used  over  and  over  as  long  as  they  are  clean.  When 
old  lime  liquor  is  to  be  had,  a  good  first  lime  may  be  pre- 
pared by  using  two-thirds  old  liquor  in  the  vat,  and  one- 
third  new  and  fresh.  In  making  the  new  liquor  about  one- 
22 


338 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


eighth  of  the  weight  of  the  skins,  of  lime  may  be  used,  and 
about  two  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  skins,  of  red  arsenic 
— that  is,  for  one  hundred  pounds  of  dry  skins,  a  little  more 
than  twelve  pounds  of  lime  may  be  used,  and  two  pounds 
of  red  arsenic,  thoroughly  slacked  together  with  hot  water. 

A  good  strength  of  lime  liquor  to  commence  the  process 
with  is  about  three  degrees,  Twaddle,  and  by  the  addition 
of  lime  and  arsenic  the  strength  may  be  raised  towards  the 
end  of  the  process  to  six  or  seven  degrees.  No  hard  or 
fixed  rule  can  be  followed.  The  tanner  must  determine  by 
close  observation  just  how  much  lime  to  use,  and  how  long 
to  leave  the  skins  in  the  lime. 

For  the  chrome  tannage,  a  short  quick  liming  produces 
the  best  results,  as  the  skins  are  kept  full  and  plump,  and 
not  allowed  to  lose  any  of  their  substance.  After  the  hair 
becomes  loosened  it  is  well  to  leave  the  skins  a  day  or  two 
longer  in  the  limes,  as  this  enables  the  hair  to  come  off 
more  readily  and  cleanly,  and  makes  softer  leather. 

When  paddle-vats  are  used  it  is  not  necessary  to  pull  the 
skins  out  each  day,  although  it  is  a  good  plan  to  stir  the 
lime  up  occasionally.  Sulphide  of  sodium  is  used  with 
lime  in  much  the  same  manner  that  red  arsenic  is  used. 
These  chemicals  shorten  the  time  of  liming  ;  keep  the  grain 
from  becoming  rough  ;  make  it  close  and  firm  ;  toughen 
the  leather,  and  by  making  the  lime  more  soluble  make  it 
easier  for  the  tanner  to  remove  it  before  tanning  the  skins. 

Bating. 

The  skins  are  next  unhaired  and  fleshed.  Then  they  are 
washed  and  bated  or  drenched.  Bating  with  manures, 
which  is  so  risky  and  uncertain,  is  being  gradually  super- 
seeded  by  other  methods  that  remove  the  lime  from  the 
skins  and  prepare  them  for  tanning  without  the  unpleasant 
features  of  the  older  method.  To  keep  the  skins  full  and 
plump  and  without  any  loss  of  substance  or  strength  results 
in  full,  plump  and  tough  leather.    Various  methods  of  bat- 


KANGAROO  LEATHEK. 


389 


iug  and  drenching  have  been  described  in  the  chapters  on 
goat  and  sheepskins.  Kangaroo  skins  may  be  treated  with 
an}^  of  the  described  'methods,  so  it  is  not  necessary  to  re- 
peat the  descriptions  here.  Manures  may  be  used  alone,  or 
in  connection  with  lactic  acid  (see  Goatskins) ;  bran  may  be 
used,  also  lactic  acid,  the  latter  material  being  the  cleanest 
and  most  satisfactory  article  a  tanner  can  use.  In  order  to 
get  good  and  rapid  tannage,  and  bright  grain  on  the  leather, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  the  skins  perfectly  free  from  lime  and 
dirt.  Very  good  leather  is  made  from  kangaroo  skins  by 
the  use  of  the  gambler  tannage.  This  may  be  used  alone 
or  in  conjunction  with  alum  and  salt,  making  a  dongola 
process.  Palmetto  extract  is  a  new  tanning  material.  It 
is  a  perfect  substitute  for  gambler  and  costs  less.  It  makes 
"  soft  tough  leather  in  a  short  time,  being  a  more  rapid  tan- 
ner than  gambier.  It  may  be  used  alone,  with  good  results, 
or  used  in  connection  with  a  chrome  process. 

Gambier  process. 

When  gambier  is  used  alone,  some  salt  is  added  to  the 
liquor ;  and  the  skins  are  started  in  a  weak  liquor,  which 
is  gradually  strengthened  by  the  addition  of  fresh  gambier 
until  the  skins  are  tanned  through.  The  use  of  the  paddles 
causes  the  skins  to  be  turned  over  in  the  liquor,  and  by 
changing  their  position  insures  uniform  tanning.  The  use 
of  salt  keeps  the  liquors  sweet  and  hastens  the  tanning. 
After  the  tanning  in  gambier  is  completed  the  leather  may 
be  strengthened  and  cleared  by  being  drummed  in  a  solu- 
tion of  alum  and  salt.  This  liquor  may  be  composed  of 
seven  pounds  of  alum  and  five  pounds  of  salt  for  every  two 
hundred  medium  size  skins.  A  drumming  in  this  solution 
for  thirty  minutes  will  accomplish  the  desired  result.  The 
leather  should  then  be  washed,  pressed  and  left  in  piles  for 
forty-eight  hours,  then  fat-liquored  and  dried  out.  When 
palmetto  extract  is  used,  the  skins  are  taken  after  bating 
and  washing  and  are  put  into  a  cold  palmetto  liquor  of 


340 


PKACTICAL  TANNING. 


about  eight  degrees  Barkometer  strength,  and  reeled  therein 
for  one-half  hour.  Then  they  are  tanned  in  a  drum  with 
palmetto  extract  made  up  in  a  liquor  of  30°  Beaume,  or  51 
Twaddle,  at  a  temperature  of  75°  Fah.  For  three  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds  of  skins,  weighed  as  the}'  come  from  the 
beam-house,  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds  extract 
may  be  used  in  the  wheel.  A  drumming  of  four  to  six  hours 
ordinarily  completes  the  tanning.  Heavy  skins  may  require 
to  be  shaved  and  then  retanned,  which  can  be  done  by  drum- 
ming them  for  one  hour  in  a  liquor  of  30°  Beaume,  51 
Twaddle. 

After  the  tanning  or  the  retanning  is  completed,  the 
leather  should  be  washed  in  lukewarm  water.  The  water 
in  which  the  leather  is  washed  may  be  used  for  coloring  a 
fresh  lot  of  skins  as  they  come  from  the  bean-house.  After 
being  washed,  the  leather  should  be  pressed  and  then  fat- 
liquored.  A  suitable  drum  is  heated  to  a  temperature  of 
140°  F.  and  two  hundred  and  twenty  pounds  of  pressed 
leather  are  put  into  the  drum.  A  fat-liquor  for  this  quantity 
of  leather  may  be  made  of  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  soap, 
and  one-half  gallon  of  degras,  thoroughly  boiled  together 
and  used  at  a  temperature  of  120°  F.  The  leather  should 
be  drummed  in  the  fat-liquor  for  one-half  hour,  then  it 
should  be  washed  off,  struck  out,  and  hung  up  and  dried 
out.   After  drying  it  may  be  finished  in  any  desired  manner. 

Combination  process. 
Combination-tanned  leather  may  be  made  with  palmetto 
extract  combined  with  a  chrome  process.  Skins  that  have 
been  tanned  with  a  two-bath  chrome  may  be  lightly  re- 
tanned  with  palmetto.  When  a  one-bath  chrome  process 
is  used,  the  skins  may  be  well  struck  with  the  chrome  liquor 
and  then  finished  up  in  palmetto,  or  the  process  may  be 
reversed,  the  skins  being  first  tanned  in  palmetto  liquor, 
made  up  of  three  gallons  of  the  extract,  and  one  pint  of 
glycerine  in  one  barrel  of  water,  at  a  temperature  of  75°  F. 
and  afterwards  in  the  chrome  liquor. 


KANGAROO  LEATHEK. 


341 


Straight  palmetto  tanned  leather,  also  combination  tanned 
stock,  can  be  readily  colored  any  shade  or  dyed  black. 

The  tanner  of  kangaroo  skins  will  find  in  the  chapter 
on  calf-skin  tanning  some  interesting  information  regarding 
various  methods  of  tanning  that  are  well  adapted  to  kan- 
garoo leather. 

Kangaroo  leather  of  remarkably  fine  texture ^ 

Full  plump  body  and  smooth  fine  grain,  may  be  made  by 
tanning  the  skins  in  a  combination  of  alum  and  chrome 
processes.  To  get  the  best  results  from  this  method  of  tan- 
ning, the  skins  should  be  thoroughl}^  and  well  limed,  and 
then  bated  and  drenched  until  they  are  perfectl}^  neutral 
and  clean,  so  as  to  get  the  necessary  softness  and  pliability. 
No  pickling  is  necessary,  the  skins  being  treated  directly 
with  the  alum  process.  A  solution  is  made  consisting  of 
nine  pounds  of  alum,  four  or  five  pounds  of  common  salt, 
and  thirty  pounds  of  wheat  flour,  dissolved  in  hot  water, 
and  then  mixed  into  about  twelve  gallons  of  water,  luke- 
warm. To  the  liquor  thus  prepared  about  twelve  pounds 
of  egg-yolk  are  added,  and  the  whole  vigorously  stirred  for 
a  few  minutes.  The  washed  and  cleaned  skins  are  put  into 
a  suitable  drum,  with  the  tanning  combination  at  a  tem- 
perature of  about  ninety  degrees,  the  drum  set  in  motion, 
the  skins  drummed  for  at  least  one  hour  for  light  and  me- 
dium skins,  and  two  hours  for  heavy  skins.  At  the  end  of 
this  time  the  skins  should  have  absorbed  all  the  tanning  in- 
ingredients.  They  may  then  be  removed  from  the  drum, 
hung  up  and  dried  out.  After  becoming  dry  the}^  should 
lie  for  some  time  before  the  remaining  operations  are  car- 
ried out.  These  operations  consist  of  moistening  back  the 
dry  skins,  until  they  are  uniformly  soft  and  moist,  which 
can  readily  be  done  by  drumming  them  in  a  very  little 
warm  water.  Then  they  are  tanned  with  a  one-bath 
chrome  liquor,  and  rendered  insoluble  and  possessing  all 
the  good  qualities  of  chrome  leather.    About  two  and 


342 


.PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


one-half  gallons  of  concentrated  liquor  are  sufficient  for 
one  hundred  pounds  of  leather,  and  a  drumming  for  three 
hours  completes  the  tanning.  This,  of  course,  is  followed 
by  washing,  striking  out  or  pressing  and  shaving,  after 
which  the  leather  may  be  colored. 

One-hath  chrome  process. 

Good  plump  leather  is  made  by  tanning  the  skins  in  a 
one-bath  chrome  process,  carried  out  as  follows :  For  every 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  weighed  as  they  come  from 
the  wash-wheels,  three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina,  and 
six  pounds  of  salt,  are  dissolved  in  ten  gallons  of  warm 
water  and  the  skins  drummed  in  this  liquor  for  at  least 
thirty  minutes.  Then  the  concentrated  chrome  liquor  is 
added  to  the  skins,  in  quantity  about  three  gallons  for  every 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  in  the  drum,  and  the  stock 
drummed  therein  for  at  least  three  hours,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  the  skins  will  be  found  to  be  leathered  and  may 
then  be  removed,  and  after  draining  for  some  hours,  or  over 
night,  may  be  washed  in  warm  borax  water  for  twenty  min- 
utes, and  in  clean  water  for  at  least  fifteen  minutes  longer. 

When  a  paddle  vat  is  used  for  the  process  the  skins  may 
be  pickled  in  alum  and  salt  as  above  described,  or  they  may 
be  entered  at  once  into  the  tanning  bath.  The  liquor  is 
somewhat  weak  at  the  start  and  is  gradually  strengthened 
as  the  skins  absorb  the  tanning  material  from  the  solution. 
The  paddle  method  consumes  from  two  to  three  days  ac- 
cording to  the  strength  of  the  liquor  and  the  thickness  of 
the  skins.  Enough  tanning  material  should  be  used  to  en- 
able the  skins  to  grow  into  plump  and  lively  leather,  and 
sufficient  salt  used  to  prevent  the  drawing  or  contraction  of 
the  fibres. 

OtJier  one-bath  processes. 
TJiere  are  other  methods  of  tanning  the  skins  in  one- 
bath  processes,  the  following  being  a  very  good  one.  After 
drenching  the.  $kins  are  pickled  in  svilphuric  acid,  salt  and 


KANGAROO  LEATHER. 


343 


water :  Fifty  pounds  of  salt  and  two  and  one-half  quarts 
of  acid  are  used  for  each  one  hundred  and  fifty  skins. 
The  skins  are  stirred  about  in  this  liquor  for  about  six 
hours,  and  are  then  allowed  to  drain  well  before  they  are 
tanned.  When  they  are  to  be  tanned  they  are  weighed 
and  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins  ten  pounds  of 
salt  are  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water  and  the  skins 
drummed  in  this  salt  solution  for  ten  minutes.  Then  a 
solution  that  has  been  previously  prepared  is  poured  into 
the  drum  and  the  skins  drummed  for  three  quarters  of  an 
hour.  This  solution  is  composed  of  three  pounds  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina  dissolved  by  boiling  in  five  gallons  of 
water,  and  three  pounds  of  sal-soda  dissolved  by  boiling  in 
five  gallons  of  water.  Then  the  soda  solution  is  slowly 
-  poured  into  the  alumina  and  the  combined  milky  liquor 
that  results  is  used  as  above  suggested.  At  the  end  of  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  one  gallon  of  tanning  liquor  is  added 
to  the  contents  of  the  drum  for  every  one  hundred  pounds 
of  skins  and  the  stock  drummed  one-half  hour,  then  another 
gallon  of  tanning  liquor  is  added,  and  the  drumming  con- 
tinued for  one  hour  ;  then  another  gallon  of  liquor  is  given 
the  skins  and  the  drumming  continued  for  another  hour. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  the  stock  will  be  struck  through. 
Then  for  every  hundred  weight  of  stock  one  pound  of  salts 
of  tartar  is  dissolved  in  a  little  water,  and  this  is  poured 
into  the  drum  and  the  drum  run  for  another  one-half  hour. 
This  should  complete  the  tanning.  Skins  tanned  in  this 
way  require  a  very  thorough  washing  before  they  are  col- 
ored, dried  out  or  finished. 

When  the  two-bath  process  is  used  about  five  pounds  of 
bi-chromate  of  potash  and  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  mu- 
riatic acid,  in  about  twelve  gallons  of  water  for  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  skins,  constitute  the  first  bath.  In  this 
liquor  the  skins  are  milled  in  the  drum  until  the  yellow 
liquor  has  penetrated  the  thickest  skin.  Chromic  acid  may 
be  used  in  quantity  about  five  pounds  for  every  hundred 


344 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


pounds  of  skins,  without  the  muriatic  acid.  Some  salt 
should  be  added  to  the  chrome  liquor.  It  seems  not  only 
to  plump  the  skins  somehow,  but  to  make  the  leather  softer. 
The  drumming  of  the  first  bath  must  be  continued  until  the 
thickest  skins  are  impregnated  with  the  liquor,  the  time 
being  determined  by  the  thickness. 

Carelessness  in  this  respect  results  in  poor  leather.  When 
the  process  is  completed  the  skins  are  taken  out  of  the  drum 
and  struck  out  or  pressed,  and  the  surplus  liquor  removed 
from  them.  They  should  then  be  left  in  piles  for  a  number 
of  hours  before  they  are  placed  in  the  second  bath.  For 
the  second  bath  a  paddle  vat  should  be  used.  Sufficient 
water  to  cover  the  skins  is  run  in,  and  for  every  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  skins,  fifteen  pounds  of  hypo-sulphite  of 
soda  are  dissolved  and  poured  into  the  vat.  To  this  are  added 
three  pounds  of  muriatic  acid.  The  addition  of  the  last 
article  causes  sulphurous  acid  to  be  evolved,  which  is  the 
active  agent  of  the  bath.  The  pressed  skins  from  the  first 
bath  may  be  dipped  singly  into  a  weak  hyposulphite  of  soda 
and  muriatic  liquor  before  they  are  put  into  the  main 
liquor.  By  means  of  this  a  slight  surface  reduction  is  ac- 
complished. By  the  action  of  the  paddles  the  liquor  is 
constantl}^  stirred,  and  the  skins  kept  in  motion.  As  soon 
as  the  yellow  liquor  has  entirely  disappeared,  and  the  skins 
have  assumed  a  uniform  greenish  blue  color  through  the 
thickest  parts,  the  skins  may  be  removed  from  the  liquor. 
This  completes  the  tanning,  unless  it  is  desired  to  give  the 
leather  a  gambier  or  similar  bath,  in  which  case  the  skins 
may  be  washed  and  given  the  vegetable  tannage.  The  use 
of  a  vegetable  tannage  in  connection  with  chrome,  causes 
the  leather  to  be  more  porous  and  open  grained  than  would 
otherwise  be  the  case. 

Blacking  chrome-tanned  kangaroo  leather. 

When  the  grain  side  of  chrome-tanned  kangaroo  leather 
is  blacked,  it  is  customary  to  first  color  the  flesh  side  blue 


KANGAROO  LEATHER. 


345 


or  purple,  thus  improving  the  appearance  of  the  leather  as 
well  as  serving  as  a  base  or  foundation  for  the  black  on  the 
grain.  After  washing,  striking  out  or  pressing  and  shaving 
the  skins  are  put  into  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  logwood, 
blue  nigrosine  and  sal-soda,  or  the  blue  nigrosine  is  used 
alone  as  may  be  preferred.  Purple  anilines  are  also  used, 
but  are  somewhat  costly  and  do  not  produce  as  clean  color 
as  the  nigrosine  or  logwood.  Hemolin  is  a  form  of  logwood 
possessing  superior  qualities.  To  obtain  the  blue  flesh  and 
black  grain,  five  pounds  of  Hemolin  with  a  small  quantity 
of  borax  or  sal-soda  are  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  in  fifty  gal- 
lons of  water.  The  skins  are  run  in  this  liquor  in  the 
drum  until  the  color  is  well  taken  up  and  are  then  spread  on 
a  table  and  a  striker  applied  to  the  grain  ;  the  result  being 
-  blue  flesh  and  black  grain.  Blue  nigrosine  is  used  as  fol- 
lows :  The  water  should  be  heated  to  a  temperature  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty  degrees.  For  each  dozen  skins  of  me- 
dium size,  three  ounces  of  nigrosine  are  dissolved  in  three 
gallons  of  the  hot  water,  and  the  skins  drummed  in  the 
solution  for  twenty  minutes.  The  water  is  then  drained 
ofl",  the  leather  struck  out  or  pressed  and  is  then  ready  for 
fat-liquoring  and  grain  blacking. 

A  good  striker. 

A  good  striker  to  develop  the  black  on  the  grain  is  made 
of  four  and  one-half  pounds  of  copperas,  and  one  and  one- 
half  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  dissolved  by  boiling  in  a  half 
barrel  of  water.  Then  are  added  one  and  one-half  pounds 
of  nut-galls,  and  one  pound  epsom  salts.  The  leather  may 
be  grain  blacked  in  drums,  on  a  machine  or  by  hand  on 
tables,  or  by  the  use  of  trays  or  dye-boxes.  It  is  generally 
the  custom  to  dye  the  grain  black  after  the  leather  has  been 
fat-liquored,  and  the  method  of  dyeing  in  boxes  is  the  pre- 
ferred one. 

Owing  to  the  great  suppleness  of  kangaroo  skins,  they  do 
not  require  so  much  grease  as  some  classes  of  skins,  to  im- 


346 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


part  to  them  the  desired  softness  and  strength.  It  is  poor 
econom}^  to  use  a  cheap  grade  of  oil,  as  often  leather  treated 
with  such  oil  has  a  disagreeable  odor.  Only  the  best  highest 
refined  and  lowest  test  oil  should  be  used,  the  extra  cost 
over  poor  oil  being  made  up  by  the  finer  feel  which  the 
good  oil  imparts  to  the  leather.  A  good  fat-liquor  for  kan- 
garoo leather  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  Ten 
pounds  of  potash  soap  are  boiled  with  steam  in  ten  gallons 
of  water  until  all  is  dissolved.  Then  four  gallons  of  neats- 
foot  oil  are  cut  with  a  few  ounces  of  dissolved  borax  or  sal- 
soda,  and  poured  into  the  soap  solution,  and  the  mixture 
stirred  very  thoroughly.  Then  enough  water  is  run  into 
the  barrel  to  make  forty  gallons  of  fat-liquor,  after  which 
are  added  ten  pounds  of  egg-yolk  and  one  pound  of  salt. 
For  heavy  skins  five  pounds  of  French  degras  are  added,  and 
egg-yolk  omitted  or  reduced  in  quantity.  This  fat-liquor 
may  be  used  at  temperatures  varying  from  one  hundred 
and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  forty  degrees.  The  quantity 
required  by  a  lot  of  leather  depends  upon  the  degree  of 
softness  desired,  and  must  be  decided  by  the  operator.  Two 
gallons  and  more  are  usually  required  by  a  dozen  skins. 

If  the  leather  is  not  to  be  grain  blacked  in  drums,  but  by 
hand  or  in  dye  boxes  it  need  not  be  done  until  after  fat- 
liquoring.  Then,  after  dyeing,  the  skins  are  washed  off 
with  warm  water  and  struck  out  on  the  grain  and  a  light 
coat  of  glycerine  applied  with  a  sponge  evenly  over  the 
grain.  After  this  the  skins  may  be  laid  in  piles  for  one  or 
two  hours  and  then  again  struck  out,  and  all  wrinkles  re- 
moved, and  the  grain  lightly  oiled.  Then  the  skins  are 
dried  out  either  by  being  hung  up  in  a  w^arm  room,  or  they 
are  tacked  on  boards  or  stretched  in  frames,  then  moistened^ 
staked,  dried  again,  and  if  they  require  it,  staked  again. 
Then  they  are  ready  for  the  final  finishing.  For  a  glazed 
finish  the  grain  may  be  cleared  of  grease  by  an  application 
of  a  dilute  solution  of  lactic  acid,  well  rubbed  in  and  dried. 
This  is  followed  by  a  seasoning  fluid,  which  requires  to  he 


KANGAROO  LEATHEK. 


347 


well  rubbed  into  the  grain,  dried  in  a  warm  room,  and  the 
leather  glazed.  The  smaller  the  quantity  of  seasoning 
liquor  used  to  get  a  clear  bright  finish  the  better  the  finish 
will  be,  as  it  will  stand  handling  and  wetting  better.  Two 
and  even  three  coats  of  seasoning  are  usually  required.  For 
a  dull  finish  the  leather  is  dressed  with  a  dull  seasoning,, 
dried,  and  before  it  is  entirely  dry  it  is  rolled  or  ironed,  and 
the  process  is  completed. 

For  the  preparation  of  chrome-tanned  kangaroo  leather^ 
to  receive  any  shade  of  color  or  black  a  preliminary  prepa- 
ration with  tanning  extracts  is  an  advantage,  and  for  fancy 
shades  is  the  most  practical  method  of  mordanting  the 
skins  so  that  they  will  take  any  dye.  Sumac  is  used  alone^ 
also  in  combination  with  gambier. 

Sumac  treatment. 
A  most  satisfactory  method  of  treating  the  chrome-tanned 
skin  for  black,  is  to  treat  the  skins  in  a  bath  of  sumac,  car- 
ried out  in  the  following  manner  :  For  one  hundred  pounds 
of  leather,  weighed  after  shaving,  a  solution  of  sumac  i& 
prepared — four  pounds  of  extract  of  sumac  and  three  gal- 
lons of  warm  water,  thoroughly  mixed  together  and  then 
mixed  into  thirty  gallons  of  water,  of  about  one  hundred 
degrees  Fah.  The  skins  are  drummed  in  this  solution  for 
thirty  minutes,  and  are  then  rinsed  off  and  stained  upon 
the  flesh.  With  a  blue  or  purple  dye.  Instead  of  sumac  ex- 
tract, a  fresh  infusion  of  sumac  leaves  may  be  used  ;  and 
the  sumac  may  be  replaced  with  gambier,  about  tw^o-third& 
of  the  liquor  being  made  of  gambier  and  the  other  one- 
third  of  sumac. 

Palmetto  ireatmmf. 
Also,  in  place  of  either  sumac  or  gambier,  a  liquor 
of  palmetto  extract  serves  as  an  excellent  preparation  for 
either  black  or  colors.  After  the  skins  have  been  prepared 
with  any  of  the  named  articles,  a  very  desirable  blue  flesh 
is  obtained  by  the  use  of  a  methyl  violet  aniline,  about 


348 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


three  ounces  per  dozen  skins  producing  good  results.  Blue 
nigrosine  may  also  be  used  upon  skins  so  prepared  in 
quantity,  about  three  ounces  for  each  dozen  skins,  dissolved 
in  five  gallons  of  hot  water.  Logwood  and  borax  also  pro- 
duce a  very  pretty  flesh  color — one  pound  of  logwood  in 
powder  form  and  a  few^  ounces  of  borax  being  required  for 
one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  Leather  treated  in  any  of 
these  ways,  and  subsequently  blacked  upon  the  grain,  dries 
out  and  finishes  up  a  perfect  black  ;  the  grain  is  made  more 
durable  and  of  finer  texture. 

Treatment  of  Gambier,  Palmetto,  and  combination  tanned  kan- 
garoo leather  after  tanning. 

As  soon  as  the  tanniug,  and  in  the  case  of  very  heavy 
skins  the  retanning  is  completed,  the  skins  are  removed 
from  the  tanning  liquor,  and  pressed  to  remove  the  surplus 
liquor,  and  then  left  in  piles  for  a  number  of  hours.  Very 
good  results  follow  the  application  of  fat-liquors,  used  in  these 
classes  of  leather  in  the  same  manner  as  upon  chrome 
leather.  A  suitable  pin-mill  drum  should  be  heated  to  a 
temperature  of  one  hundred  degrees,  and  one  gallon  of  oil 
used  for  each  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  leather, 
weighed  after  being  drained  and  pressed.  The  skins  are 
run  in  the  oil  until  the  oil  is  all  absorbed,  then  they  are 
taken  from  the  drum  and  hung  up  and  dried.  After  dry- 
ing, the  leather  should  be  weighed  and  then  dampened  in 
a  tub  and  piled  up  for  a  number  of  hours  to  soften.  This 
moistening  and  softening  must  be  uniform.  The  drum  is 
again  heated  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees,  and  the 
leather  put  in  with  just  enough  water  to  soften  all  parts 
alike.  The  moisture  must  be  uniformly  distributed,  and 
the  leather  fulled.  The  fat-liquor  will  then  be  evenly  and 
rapidly  absorbed.  All  excess  of  moisture  must  be  guarded 
against,  and  any  surplus  water  drained  off.  The  fat-liquor 
should  be  added  to  the  leather  through  the  gudgeon  while 
the  drum  is  in  motion.   The  temperature  should  not  exceed 


KANGAROO  LEATHER. 


349 


one  hundred  and  twenty-five  degrees.  The  quantity  of  fat- 
liquor  required  by  a  lot  of  leather  depends  to  some  extent 
upon  the  tannage  and  upon  the  degree  of  softness  de- 
sired. Some  tannages  require  more  grease  than  others. 
The  leather  should  be  drummed  in  the  fat-liquor  until  all 
the  grease  is  taken  up,  then  it  should  be  hung  up  and 
dried  out  again.  A  very  good  fat-liquor  is  made  as  follows  : 
About  twenty-five  gallons  of  water  are  put  into  a  barrel. 
To  this  are  added  twenty-five  pounds  of  soap,  the  whole 
boiled  until  thoroughly  dissolved.  Then  about  fifty  pounds 
of  English  sod  oil  and  one  and  one-half  gallons  of  neats- 
foot  oil  are  poured  in  and  the  mixture  thoroughly  stirred 
until  the  ingredients  are  well  mixed  together.  Enough 
w^ater  is  next  added  to  make  fifty  gallons  of  fat-liquor. 
After  the  process  of  fat-liquoring  is  completed  the  leather 
should  be  taken  from  the  drum  and  washed  in  warm  water 
to  free  it  from  particles  of  leather  fibre,  etc.,  and  then  hung 
over  horses  for  a  few  hours  in  order  to  allow  the  fatty  mat- 
ter to  assimilate  with  the  fibres  of  the  leather  while  it  is 
warm  and  before  it  is  dried  out.  The  leather  is  next  dried 
out  again. 

When  the  leather  is  to  be  colored  yellow  on  the  flesh  side 
it  is  taken,  after  fat-liquoring  and  drying  out,  and  thor- 
oughly moistened  in  a  tub  of  warm  water  and  left  in  piles 
for  twenty-four  hours  to  soften.  A  solution  is  then  pre- 
pared, of  sumac,  of  which  one-half  pail  is  scalded  for  two 
hours  in  a  closed  vessel.  To  this  are  added  four  pails  of 
water,  and  one  gallon  of  Lactracine.  This  quantity  of  pre- 
pared liquor  is  suflficient  for  from  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  kangaroo  skins  according  to  their  size.  The 
temperature  should  be  one  hundred  degrees  Fah.,  and  the 
stock  drummed  in  the  liquor  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Then 
the  skins  should  be  thrown  back  upon  the  sides  of  the 
drum  and  the  yellow  color  liquor  prepared  and  added.  This 
may  consist  of  one  pound  of  Yellow  S  dissolved  in  one-half 
barrel  of  water.    After  the  leather  has  been  drummed  the 


350 


PRACTICAL  TANNING 


required  length  of  time  three  pailfuls  of  this  color  are 
added  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock  weighed  in 
the  dry  condition.  A  drumming  for  ten  minutes  is  suffi- 
cient to  allow  the  leather  to  absorb  the  dye.  Then  the 
stock  is  rinsed  off,  dyed  black  on  the  grain  with  Hemolin 
or  some  other  form  of  logwood  and  black  striker,  set  well 
out  on  the  grain,  and  oiled  lightly,  dried  out,  staked  and 
finished  in  the  usual  way. 

When  a  blue  or  purple  back  is  wanted  on  the  leather, 
the  skins  are  dried  out  after  fat-liquoring,  moistened  and 
softened  as  above  suggested  and  colored  with  a  solution  of 
logwood  and  sal-soda.  Blue  nigrosine  may  also  be  used  in 
the  same  manner  as  described  for  chrome  tanned  skins ;  and 
after  the  flesh  is  colored  blue  the  grain  is  blacked  with  log- 
wood and  iron  striker. 

After  the  leather  is  dried  out,  it  is  dampened,  staked, 
seasoned  and  finished  in  either  dull,  half-bright  or  bright 
glazed  as  may  be  wanted.  A  good  seasoning  for  this  class 
of  stock  that  produces  a  very  bright  finish  is  composed  of 
blue  stone,  iron,  logwood,  ammonia,  blood  and  nigrosine,  in 
the  following  proportions  :  Blue  stone,  one-half  pint ;  iron, 
one-eighth  ounce  ;  logwood,  one-half  pint ;  blood,  one  pint ; 
migrosine,  one-half  pint.  This  seasoning  is  applied  evenly 
to  the  grain  of  the  leather  and  well  rubbed  in,  then  the 
leather  is  dried  in  a  warm  room,  and  glazed,  after  which  it 
is  staked  on  the  machine,  and  again  seasoned  and  glazed. 
Two  or  three  applications  of  the  seasoning  liquor,  followed 
each  time  by  glazing,  are  generally  required  before  a  good 
clear  and  bright  finish  is  obtained. 

For  dull  finish  the  leather  is  seasoned  with  a  dull  dress- 
ing and  while  it  is  moist,  it  is  ironed  either  by  hand  or  on 
a  machine.  For  fancy  shades  of  leather,  the  stock  after 
being  drummed  in  the  sumac  liquor,  as  described  for  yel- 
low back,  may  be  treated  with  solutions  of  aniline  dyes  and 
any  desired  shade  obtained.  To  overcome  any  uncom- 
bined  tannin  upon  the  grain  caused  by  the  sumac,  a  solu- 


KANGAROO  LEATHER. 


351 


tion  of  tartar  emetic  or  of  antimonine  may  be  added  to 
the  sumac  bath,  and  the  result  will  be  full  even  colors  free 
from  spots  and  streaks.  About  two  ounces  of  either  of  the 
two  articles  are  required  by  each  dozen  skins  and  the  drum- 
ming continued  for  fifteen  minutes  after  the  solution  is 
added  to  the  drum.  The  leather  may  also  be  first  milled 
in  a  solution  of  lactic  acid  made  up  of  one  gallon  lactic 
acid  to  fifty  gallons  of  warm  water.  This  liquor  seems  to 
open  up  the  grain  and  to  remove  all  greasy  matter. 

A  great  deal  of  the  success  attained  in  coloring  the 
tanned  leather  is  determined  by  and  depends  upon  the 
methods  and  materials  used  in  the  early  preparatory  pro- 
cesses of  beam-house  and  tannery.  Many  of  the  dyers' 
troubles,  such  as  unevenness  of  shade,  streaks  and  imper- 
fect penetration  of  the  color  solution  are  caused  by  careless 
or  improper  methods  followed  in  preparing  the  leather  for 
the  process  of  coloring.  In  order  to  get  light  shades  of 
color  it  is  essential  that  the  leather  be  light  colored.  When 
it  is  dark  from  the  tannage  it  requires  a  bleaching  and 
cleaning.  Sometimes  the  appearance  of  the  grain  may  be 
improved  by  a  priming  in  picric  acid.  Sumac,  as  it  con- 
tains very  little  coloring  matter,  is  commonly  used  as  a 
mordant  upon  chrome  leather,  and  for  the  purpose  of  fresh- 
oning  up  vegetable  tanned  leather  before  it  is  colored. 
Many  of  the  tannages  contain  quantities  of  coloring  matter 
and  these  exert  an  influence  upon  the  shade.  For  some 
dark  shades  advantage  may  be  taken  of  the  coloring  matter 
in  the  tannage  and  less  dye  used. 

When  the  grain  of  the  leather  is  greasy  as  well  as  cloudy 
it  may  be  prepared  for  the  process  of  coloring  by  drum- 
ming the  leather  in  a  solution  of  lactic  acid  and  bichromate 
of  potash.  About  one  gallon  of  the  acid  and  two  pounds 
of  the  chrome  should  be  used  for  fifty  gallons  of  water,  and 
the  leather  milled  or  drummed  in  this  solution  for  thirty 
minutes,  after  it  has  been  moistened  and  softened  with 
warm  water.    This  liquor  may  also  be  applied  to  give  a 


352 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


fuller  and  more  even  appearance  to  the  colors  by  being  used 
as  a  striker  to  fix  or  fasten  the  dye  upon  the  leather. 

Seasonings. 

Used  as  a  seasoning  upon  both  chrome  and  vegetable 
tanned  leather,  the  following  liquor  produces  good  results  : 
One-half  ounce  bichromate  of  potash,  two  pints  acetic  acid, 
two  gallons  of  egg-albumen  solution,  and  ten  gallons  of 
water.  In  order  to  clear  the  grain  of  grease  one  gallon  of 
apple  vinegar,  and  a  little  bichromate  of  potash,  mixed 
with  ten  gallons  of  water,  may  be  used. 

For  black  kangaroo  leather  this  seasoning  may  be  used  : 
Five  gallons  of  strong  logwood  liquor  are  blacked  with  five 
ounces  of  copperas  ;  theu  are  added  one  and  one-half  pints 
of  blood,  five  ounces  of  glycerine,  and  eight  ounces  of 
ammonia.  To  remove  surface  grease  and  to  deepen  the 
black  of  the  finish,  a  solution  of  vinegar  and  bichromate  of 
potash  is  very  useful,  applied  after  the  leather  has  received 
the  first  glazing.  Special  care  is  necessary  to  rub  the  glaz- 
ing liquor,  and  indeed  all  liquors  used  in  finishing,  down 
into  the  grain.  When  this  is  not  done  the  finish  shows  a 
grey  bottom. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


METHODS  OF  BLEACHING  LEATHER. 

In  many  instances  in  the  coloring  of  vegetable  tanned 
leather,  goat,  sheep,  calfskins,  etc.,  it  is  considered  advan- 
tageous to  bleach  the  skins.  This  is  especially  desirable 
when  the  color  of  the  skins  resulting  from  the  tannage  is 
dark.  A  method  of  bleaching  in  frequent  use  is  by  sugar 
of  lead  and  sulphuric  acid.  Correctly  speaking,  this  is 
not  bleaching  but  really  coloring,  since  the  light  color  ac- 
quired by  the  leather  is  the  result  of  lead  sulphate  being 
deposited  on  the  grain  of  the  skins.  None  of  the  coloring 
matter  is  removed.  It  is  generally  a  good  plan  to  retan 
the  skins  in  sumac  before  bleaching.  Sumac  tanned  skins, 
of  course,  requiring  no  retanning.  To  properly  prepare 
the  skins  for  the  process  they  should  be  taken  in  the  dry 
or  crust  state  and  uniformly  moistened  with  soft  warm 
water.  Then  they  should  be  milled  in  a  pin-mill  drum  in 
warm  borax  water,  so  as  to  remove  all  particles  of  dirt,  dust 
and  tannin.  A  light  retanning  may  then  be  given  them. 
This  is  done  preferably  in  a  drum.  The  quantity  of  sumac 
to  be  used  must  be  determined  by  the  size  and  thickness  of 
the  skins,  and  ranges  from  one  to  two  pounds  for  each 
dozen.  The  sumac  bath  should  be  warm,  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  100  degrees  F.,  and  the  skins  should  be  drummed 
therein  for  from  one  to  two  hours,  after  which  they  should 
be  washed  off  in  warm  water,  and  are  then  ready  for 
bleaching. 

The  bleaching  may  be  done  either  in  drums  or  vats,  by 
running  the  skins  in  a  sugar  of  lead  solution  of  about  two 
and  one-half  per  cent,  for  thirty  minutes,  and  then  trans- 
ferring them  to  a  bath  of  sulphuric  acid  of  about  three  per 
23  (353) 


354 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


cent.,  and  leaving  them  therein  until  they  have  become 
white.  The  operations  may  be  repeated  as  often  as  is  con- 
sidered necessary  to  get  the  skins  sufficiently  bleached.  It 
is  very  important  that  all  traces  of  the  sulphuric  acid  are 
gotten  rid  of  by  very  thorough  washing  in  several  changes 
of  water.  This  method  of  bleaching  has  many  unpleasant 
and  objectionable  features.  Its  cheapness  and  effectiveness 
are  its  chief  recommendations. 

Another  method  of  bleaching 

Is  carried  out  by  the  use  of  permanganate  of  potash  and 
bisulphite  of  soda  and  muriatic  acid.  The  permanganate 
of  potash  liquor  should  be  about  a  one  per  cent,  solution, 
used  warm,  and  the  skins  immersed  therein  for  thirty 
minutes,  when  they  are  removed  and  thoroughly  washed  in 
clear  water.  After  washing  they  are  placed  in  a  bath  of 
bisulphite  of  soda  and  hydrochloric  acid  in  the  following 
proportions  :  Seven  parts  of  bisulphite  of  soda  and  three 
parts  of  acid  in  fifty  parts  of  water.  In  this  bath  the  skins 
are  left  until  they  come  to  the  desired  shade.  Peroxide  of 
hydrogen  is  also  used  for  bleaching. 

In  a  liquor  made  up  of  tanning  material  and  an  alkali, 
followed  by  a  treatment  with  sulphuric  acid, 

The  color  of  dark  tanned  leather  may  be  considerably 
lightened.  The  first  bath  consists  preferably  of  quebracho 
extract  and  an  alkali,  such  as  borax.  The  temperature  of 
this  liquor  should  be  maintained  at  about  120  degrees  dur- 
ing the  operation,  and  the  leather  requires  an  immersion 
of  five  or  ten  minutes  according  to  its  character  and  the 
effect  desired. 

Upon  being  taken  from  this  liquor  the  leather  should  be 
washed  off  in  cold  water.  After  this  it  is  given  an  acid 
bath.  Sulphuric  acid  may  be  used,  also  muriatic  or  oxalic 
acid.  The  temperature  of  this  bath  should  be  maintained 
at  about  120  degrees,  and  the  leather  left  in  the  same  long 


METHODS  OF  BLEACHING  LEATHER. 


355 


enough  to  acquire  the  color  desired.  After  the  acid  treat- 
ment, the  leather  is  removed,  drained  and  washed. 

When  leather  has  acquired  a  dark  color 

From  the  tannage,  and  is  to  be  colored,  it  is  advantageous 
to  remove  from  the  stock,  part  of  the  original  tanning 
material,  and  to  replace  it  with  sumac.  To  accomplish 
this  the  leather  is  taken  in  the  dry  condition  and  uniformly 
moistened  with  warm  soft  water,  by  being  dipped  into  a  tub 
of  the  same,  and  then  placed  in  piles  for  a  number  of  hours 
or  until  it  becomes  soft  and  moistened  through. 

It  is  then  thoroughly  washed  in  a  drum  in  warm  soft 
water,  that  is,  water  softened  with  borax,  for  thirty  min- 
utes, when  the  water  is  run  off  and  a  fresh  supply  run  in, 
and  the  washing  and  milling  continued  for  another  half 
hour. 

The  leather  is  then  treated  with  a  weak  liquor  made  up 
of  water  and  sulphuric  acid,  in  very  dilute  solution,  for 
tw^enty  minutes,  after  which  it  requires  a  very  thorough 
washing  in  two  or  three  changes  of  water.  The  leather  is 
next  treated  with  sumac,  also  in  a  drum,  one  to  two  pounds 
of  sumac  being  used  for  each  dozen  skins.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  sumac  bath  should  be  about  100  degrees  Fah., 
mid  the  leather  should  be  drummed  in  the  same  for  from 
one  to  two  hours,  then  rinsed  off,  set  out  and  is  ready  to  be 
colored ;  or  it  may  be  dried  out  and  left  in  dry  condition 
for  some  time  until  it  is  desired  to  color  and  finish  it.  For 
medium  light  shades  the  above  method  is  satisfactory,  but 
for  very  light  and  fancy  shades  the  sugar  of  lead  and  sul- 
phuric acid  method  may  be  used. 

A  process  of  bleaching  leather, 

Patented  by  Messrs.  W.  H.  Krug  and  E.  J.  Haley,  is  carried 
out  according  to  the  following  description  :  A  bleaching 
liquor  is  first  prepared  by  forming  an  aqueous  solution  of 
tanning  material  in  any  w^ell-known  manner,  the  strength 


356 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


of  the  solution  depending  upon  the  character  of  the  leather 
and  the  tannery  practice.  In  this  process  the  bleaching- 
solution  is  preferably  of  the  same,  or  of  greater  density 
than  that  to  which  the  leather  was  last  subjected  in  the 
preceding  tanning  process. 

To  the  solution  of  tanning  material  there  is  added  a. 
quantity  of  alkali,  a  combination  of  alkaline  ingredients 
not  only  sufficient  to  clarify  the  same,  or  dissolve  the  insol- 
uble constituents  naturally  present  in  the  tanning  material^ 
but  in  such  excess  as  to  secure  the  bleaching  effect  of  the 
dye — that  is,  the  color  which  is  desired  to  be  imparted  to 
the  leather,  and  according  to  the  nature  of  the  tanning 
material  used.  For  securing  leather  of  light  colors  the 
proportion  of  alkali  is  greater  than  when  dark  colored 
leathers  are  desired,  and  if  the  bleaching  liquor  is  formed 
of  the  solution  obtained  of  a  bark,  the  proportion  of  alkali 
will  be  less  than  if  it  is  formed  from  other  materials,  as 
quebracho  extract,  etc.  The  mixture  thus  obtained  is  then 
heated,  preferably  to  a  temperature  of  100°  to  140°  Fahr.^ 
and  is  maintained  during  treatment  at  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible a  uniform  temperature,  and  also  at  a  uniform  strength 
or  density,  by  the  addition  at  intervals  of  such  quantities 
of  tanning  material  and  alkali  as  are  required  for  this  pur- 
pose. The  leather  is  immersed  in  the  bleaching  liquor 
and  is  maintained  therein  for  a  short  period  of  time,  say 
from  one  to  ten  minutes  or  more,  according  to  the  character 
of  the  leather  and  the  effect  desired,  the  immersing^  being 
continued  for  a  greater  length  of  time  to  secure  a  denser 
product.  In  using  the  term  alkali  there  is  meant  an 
alkali,  alkaline  salt,  or  alkaline  combination  of  ingredients, 
as  for  instance,  sodium  carbonate  or  borax,  or  a  combina- 
tion thereof. 

After  the  treatment  in  the  alkaline  bleaching  bath  the 
leather  is  transferred  to  an  acid  bath.  This  acid  bath  con- 
sists of  a  weak  aqueous  solution  of  any  suitable  material  or 
organic  acid,  as  sulphuric,  hydrochloric  or  oxalic  acid,  or  a 


METHODS  OF  BLEACHING  LEATHER. 


357 


combination  thereof,  the  solution  varying  in  strength  ac- 
cording to  the  character  of  the  leather  and  the  density  of 
the  bleaching  alkaline  liquor  previously  used,  but  being 
maintained  as  nearly  as  possible  at  a  uniform  strength  dur- 
ing the  treatment  of  the  mass  of  leather  to  secure  uniform 
results.  The  acid  bath  as  before  stated  is  preferably  main- 
tained at  as  nearly  a  uniform  temperature  as  possible  from 
100°  to  140°  Fah.,  and  the  leather  is  immersed  therein  and 
permitted  to  remain  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  obtain 
the  color  and  properties  desired,  the  longer  immersion  se- 
curing a  lighter  color  and  heavier  or  denser  leather.  After 
the  acid  treatment  the  leather  is  removed,  drained  and 
washed  with  water  to  remove  the  acid.  If  it  is  desired  to 
modify  the  color  of  the  leather  after  the  acid  treatment,  the 
leather  may  be  immersed  in  a  solution  of  tanning  material, 
either  with  or  without  the  addition  of  alkali,  and  be  al- 
lowed to  remain  therein  until  the  desired  color  and  effect 
are  obtained.  This  may  be  done  before  the  leather  is 
washed  with  water. 

In  bleaching  hemlock  tanned  sole  leather,  this  process 
may  be  carried  out  as  follows :  Assuming  that  the  tanning 
liquor  in  the  last  layer  from  which  the  leather  is  taken  has 
a  density  of  40°  barkometer,  an  alkali  bleaching  bath  is 
prepared  of  a  density  of  45°  barkometer,  by  dissolving 
ninety-two  pounds  of  quebracho  extract,  fourteen  pounds 
of  borax,  and  twenty-eight  pounds  of  sodium  carbonate  in 
every  ten  cubic  feet  of  water  (625  pounds).  This  bath  is 
heated  to  140  degrees  Fahr.,  and  the  leather  taken  directly 
from  the  last  layer  in  which  the  tanning  operation  has  been 
completed  and  is  immersed  therein  for  five  minutes,  where- 
upon it  is  removed,  drained  for  a  few  minutes  and  then 
immersed  in  the  acid  bath.  Five  pounds  of  sulfuric  acid 
are  dissolved  in  ten  cubic  feet  of  water  and  the  solution  is 
heated  to  140  degrees  Fahr.  In  this  acid  bath  the  leather 
remains  for  five  minutes,  whereupon  it  is  removed  and 
thoroughly  rinsed  in  cold  water.    When  operating  upon  a 


358 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


large  number  of  sides,  it  is  necessary  to  strengthen  both  the 
alkahne  bleaching  bath  and  the  acid  bath  from  time  to 
time.  In  practice  the  density  of  the  alkaline  bath  may 
fall  to  40°  barkometer,  whereupon  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
very  concentrated  aqueous  alkaline  solution  of  quebracho 
extract  must  be  added  containing  the  same  ingredients  as 
the  alkaline  bleaching  bath,  and  in  the  same  proportions 
until  the  density  of  the  alkaline  bleaching  bath  again  be- 
comes 45°  barkometer.  The  acidity  of  the  acid  bath  is 
maintained  by  adding  after  every  fifty  sides  which  have 
been  immersed  therein  from  three-tenths  to  five-tenths  of  a 
pound  of  sulphuric  acid  to  every  ten  cubic  feet  of  water.  If 
it  is  now  desired  to  impart  to  this  bleached  leather  an  oak 
color,  the  leather  is  immersed  in  a  liquor  made  from  oak 
bark  having  a  density  of  40°  barkometer,  and  a  temper- 
ature of  100°  Fahr.,  and  allowed  to  remain  therein  until 
the  desired  color  is  obtained. 

The  above  described  treatment  results  in  very  material 
advantages  over  the  ordinary  process  of  bleaching.  First, 
the  leather  instead  of  being  reduced  in  weight,  is  main- 
tained or  increased  in  weight,  and  consequently  is  of  greater 
density  resulting  in  greater  durability  of  the  articles  made 
therefrom.  Secondly,  the  bleach  instead  of  being  a  sur- 
face bleach,  is  one  which  may  be  prolonged  so  as  to  aff'ect 
the  entire  fibre  of  the  leather  so  that  articles  made  there- 
from will  not  vary  in  color  from  effects  of  wear.  Thirdl}^ 
it  is  practicable,  by  varying  the  strength  of  the  solution,  to 
produce  any  desired  shade  and,  therefore,  to  operate  upon  a 
mass  of  leather  with  uniform  results  in  this  respect.  It  is 
always  preferable  to  make  use  of  an  alkaline  bleaching  bath 
in  which  the  proportion  of  tanning  material  is  greater  than 
that  from  which  the  leather  was  taken  in  the  preceding 
tanning  operation,  but  it  is  possible  to  carry  out  this  pro- 
cess with  a  bleaching  solution  in  which  the  tanning  mate- 
rial is  in  less  proportion. 

The  use  of  a  bleaching  solution  consisting  of  tanning 


METHODS  OF  BLEACHING  LEATHER.  359 

material,  however,  in  connection  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  alkali  to  produce  the  bleaching  effect,  instead  of  reduc- 
ing the  weight  and  density  of  the  leather,  as  usual,  will 
maintain  or  increase  it,  and  in  proportion  as  greater  weight 
is  needed  it  is  desirable  to  increase  the  proportion  of  tan- 
ning material  and  alkali  in  the  solution. 

The  particular  ingredients  used,  the  proportions  of  the 
same  in  the  baths,  and  the  density  and  temperatures  of  the 
bath  may  be  varied,  and  depend  upon  the  tannery  practice. 

More  is  said  on  the  subject  of  bleaching  and  clearing 
leather  in  the  last  chapter  of  this  book. 


CHAPTER  XXL 


PREPARING  HEAVY  HIDES  FOR  TANNING. 

The  tanners  of  hides  receive  their  raw  stock  in  one  of 
three  conditions,  viz.,  green-salted,  dry  and  dry-salted.  All 
hides  that  are  made  into  leather  come  to  the  tannery  in  one 
of  these  conditions.  Native  or  domestic  hides  are  generally 
green-salted.  Imported  hides  are  green-salted,  dry  and 
dry-salted.  It  does  not  matter  in  what  condition  hides  are 
received,  nor  the  kind  of  leather  into  which  they  are  to  be 
made,  they  require  soaking  in  water,  as  a  preliminary  and 
preparatory  process,  before  any  attempt  is  made  at  remov- 
ing the  hair  or  tanning  the  hides. 

The  ends  and  objects  to  be  accomplished  during  the  soak- 
ing process  are  thorough  softening  of  the  hides  and  the  re- 
moval from  them  of  all  foreign  substances  such  as  salt,  dirt 
and  blood.  The  hides  should  always  be  thoroughly  soft- 
ened without  being  allowed  to  become  flaccid.  The  im- 
portance of  the  soaking  process  is  not  always  recognized ; 
and  yet,  because  it  comes  at  the  very  beginning  of  the 
leather-making  operations,  it  is  a  matter  of  considerable 
consequence  that  the  hides  are  thoroughly  cleansed  and 
softened  in  order  that  they  may  be  worked  the  more  satis- 
factorily through  the  subsequent  processes. 

Salted  hides  when  they  are  soaked  too  long  lose  some 
of  their  gelatine,  and  this  results  in  loose  and  spongy 
leather.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  stock  is  not  soaked  long 
enough  to  accomplish  the  objects  of  the  process,  the  grain 
of  the  finished  leather  shows  up  undesirable  shades  and 
streaks.  In  the  soaking  of  salted  hides  it  is  a  good  method 
to  follow  to  soak  the  hides  for  a  number  of  hours  in  clean 
water,  and  then  to  either  draw  the  hides  out  of  the  water 

(360) 


PREPARING  HEAVY  HIDES  FOR  TANNING. 


361 


and  running  it  off  replacing  it  with  new,  or  to  hang  the 
hides  over  sticks  and  suspend  them  in  the  water  so  that 
the  water  can  be  easily  changed.  The  water  should  be 
changed  two  or  three  times  during  the  process,  depending 
upon  the  condition  of  the  hides.  In  some  instances  it  is 
not  necessary  to  change  the  water  more  than  once. 

The  changing  cf  the  water  not  only  hastens  the  softening, 
but  also  rids  the  hides  of  salt  and  dirt  in  a  short  time. 
Another  object  of  changing  the  water  is  to  prevent  the 
accumulation  of  salt  and  dirt  in  the  soaks,  which  do  not 
act  as  preservatives,  but  on  the  contrary  frequently  cause  a 
loss  of  substance  by  reason  of  the  gelatine  that  is  dissolved 
out  of  the  hides.  Hides  soaked  in  hard  water  absorb  large 
quantities  of  water,  and  consequently  become  soft  in  a  short 
^  time.  It  is  claimed,  however,  that  hard  water  containing 
the  salts  of  lime  and  magnesia,  tends  to  afifect  the  substance 
of  the  hides.  It  is  well  known  that  different  results  are 
obtained  in  various  tanneries  by  the  use  of  different  kinds 
of  water  ;  and  also  that  the  finest-textured  leather  is  made 
when  only  clean  soft  water  is  used.  Hard  water  is  gener- 
ally softened  by  the  addition  of  borax.  About  five  pounds 
of  borax  soften  one  thousand  gallons  of  water.  It  should 
be  dissolved  in  hot  water  and  poured  into  the  soak  water 
before  the  hides  are  put  in.  Sulphide  of  sodium  may  also 
be  used  with  good  results,  as  may  also  boric  acid,  which 
being  an  antiseptic  prevents  decomposition  and  loss  of  hide 
substance. 

Ordinary  hides  are  sufficiently  soaked  in  from  twenty- 
four  to  forty-eight  hours.  No  exact  rule  can  be  given  or 
followed,  as  much  depends  upon  the  condition  and  thick- 
ness of  the  hides  and  the  temperature  of  the  water.  It  is 
important  that  all  blood,  salt  and  dirt  be  gotten  rid  of  in 
the  soaks.  These  substances,  especially  the  blood,  dirt  and 
refuse  from  the  stock  soon  putrefy,  the  putrefaction  readily 
injuring  the  hides.  For  this  reason,  and  also  because  of 
their  unpleasant  odor,  it  is  not  the  best  practice  for  a  tanner 


362 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


to  use  soaks  over  and  over  for  different  lots  of  hides.  Old 
stale  soaks  certainly  soften  hides  in  a  short  time,  but  very 
often  at  the  expense  of  some  desirable  quality  of  the  leather. 
Sometimes  the  defects  that  are  the  result  of  improper  soak- 
ing, are  not  noticed  until  after  the  hides  are  tanned,  and 
then  no  one  can  tell  what  caused  them  and  the  blame  is 
laid  in  some  other  portion  of  the  work. 

Pricked  and  pitted  grain  are  some  of  the  effects  of  care- 
less soaking.  The  former  is  in  appearance  similar  to  what 
would  be  caused  by  puncturing  the  grain  of  the  hides  with 
pins.  This  is  sometimes  caused  by  soaking  for  too  long  a 
time,  especially  in  hot  weather.  Pitted  grain  is  similar  to 
the  foregoing,  only  the  holes  are  larger.  The  hides  begin 
to  decompose  before  they  are  taken  from  the  water,  and  no 
subsequent  treatment  can  remedy  the  defect. 

Soaking  green-salted  hides. 

A  common  method  of  soaking  green-salted  hides,  among 
tanners  of  upper,  sole  and  harness  leather,  is  to  put  a  pack 
of  hides  into  the  soak  on  one  day,  and  on  the  next  day  to 
pull  it  out,  and  allow  the  dirty  water  to  run  off.  Then 
the  hides  are  put  back  into  another  clean,  fresh  soak  for 
another  day.  Some  tanners  also  mill  their  hides  in  a 
drum  for  a  few  minutes,  but  this  is  not  always  necessary. 
At  the  end  of  the  soaking  process  the  hides  are  removed 
from  the  water,  drained,  fleshed,  split  from  head  to  tail, 
pinned  together  with  hooks  into  a  long  chain  and  are  then 
passed  into  the  limes. 

When  the  soaked  hides  have  been  removed  from  the 
soaks,  and  before  they  are  limed  and  unhaired,  they  are 
frequently  piled  in  heaps.  Heating  occasionally  sets  in, 
especially  in  warm  weather,  and  in  a  short  time  the  stock 
is  seriously  damaged.  When  heating  once  sets  in  the  hides 
rapidly  decompose  and  the  total  loss  of  the  stock  can  only 
be  prevented  by  airing  them  at  once  or  by  immersing  them 
in  cold  water.    Heating  always  injures  the  stock,  more  or 


PREPARING  HEAVY  HIDES  FOR  TANNING.  363 

less,  according  to  the  degree  of  heat  developed,  and  it  is 
therefore  very  important  to  guard  against  loss  in  this  way 
as  much  as  possible.  The  hide  piles  should  be  handled 
frequently,  or,  better  still,  no  delay  should  take  place  but 
the  hides  passed  at  once  into  the  next  process.  Hides  that 
have  been  preserved  with  salt  and  partly  dried,  require 
more  thorough  soaking  than  green-salted  ones.  The  dry- 
ing of  moist  salty  hides  effects  a  change  in  the  fibres,  and 
the  hides  consequently  need  a  soaking  for  two,  three  or 
four  days,  and  a  drumming  in  a  drum,  or  working  in  a 
hide  mill,  in  order  to  get  them  properly  freshened  up. 

Owing  to  the  difficulties  met  with  in  soaking  dry  or  flint 
hides,  and  bringing  them  back  to  the  natural  soft  and  pli- 
able condition  necessary  before  they  can  be  worked  through 
the  processes  of  the  beam  house  and  tanning,  many  tanners 
neglect  this  class  of  stock  ;  and  yet  when  the  soaking  and 
softening  are  properly  done,  very  good  leather  is  made  from 
dried  hides.  Certain  it  is  that  no  class  of  hides  with  which 
tanners  have  to  deal  requires  more  thorough  treatment  in 
the  beamhouse  than  those  that  are  received  in  flint -dry 
condition.  In  many  instances  the  work  is  not  fully  under- 
stood, and  the  results  are  that  the  hides  are  not  treated 
right  and  are  subjected  to  much  abuse  and  condemnation. 
Having  been  dried  in  the  raw  state,  they  are  almost  water- 
proof, and  as  they  are  very  thick  and  heavy  they  are  soft- 
ened with  considerable  difficulty.  Frequently  too,  before 
the  hides  become  thoroughly  dry,  decay  and  putrefaction 
set  in,  which  although  not  noticed  at  the  time,  will  become 
readily  apparent  during  the  soaking  process.  Then  every 
spot  that  was  not  perfectly  cured  or  that  was  tainted  with 
decay  before  drying  will  appear  either  by  the  hair  coming 
off",  the  grain  peeling  or  by  portions  of  the  hide  rotting 
away.  The  uneven  thickness  of  the  hides  also  causes  very 
uneven  softening,  and  even  when  they  are  received  by  the 
tanner  in  good  condition  the  thinner  portions  are  liable  to 
decay  before  the  thicker  portions  have  become  thoroughly 


364 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


softened.  It  is  very  necessary  that  all  portions  of  the  hides 
be  thoroughly  soft  before  the  process  of  depilating  is  begun. 
When  not  thoroughly  soft  the  limes  cannot  do  their  work 
and  trouble  is  encountered  at  any  stage  of  the  subsequent 
manipulation.  The  placing  of  the  hides  in  clear  water  with 
nothing  to  assist  in  the  softening  is  liable  to  result  in  injury 
to  the  hides,  since  before  the  thick  portions  become  suffi- 
ciently soft  the  thin  ones  along  the  sides  and  in  the  flanks 
suffer  more  or  less  injury.  The  long  soaking  also  results 
in  the  loss  of  much  of  the  hide  gelatine,  and  this  always 
results  in  loose  and  spongy  leather.  The  grain  is  very  apt 
to  be  injured  by  what  is  known  as  pitted  grain,  and  much 
time  is  unprofitably  consumed.  In  order,  therefore,  to 
hasten  the  soaking,  and  at  the  same  time  to  bring  the  hides 
through  in  good  shape,  it  is  necessary  that  some  solution  of 
chemicals  be  added  to  the  soaking  water  that  will  accom- 
plish the  desired  results.  Borax  and  sulphide  of  sodium 
are  safe  and  very  efficient  for  the  purpose.  When  borax  is 
used,  from  two  to  five  pounds  are  taken  for  each  one  thousand 
gallons  of  water.  It  should  be  dissolved  in  a  separate  vessel 
and  poured  into  the  water  in  the  vats  under  vigorous  stir- 
ring. Sulphide  of  sodium  is,  however,  without  doubt,  the 
best  softener  that  can  be  used,  being  not  only  very  rapid 
in  its  action  but  comparatively  cheap.  From  two  to  five 
pounds  are  enough  for  each  one  thousand  gallons  of  water. 
Caustic  soda  when  used  in  moderate  quantity  produces 
good  results,  although  it  has  a  tendency  to  dissolve  hide 
substance  if  used  in  too  large  quantity.  Boracic  acid  may 
also  be  used  in  the  soaks,  and  being  an  antiseptic  prevents, 
to  some  extent,  decomposition  and  loss  of  substance. 

Danger  of  'putrefaction. 

The  most  serious  danger  in  connection  with  the  soaking 
of  dry  hides  is  the  liability  to  putrefaction.  This  may  be 
guarded  against  by  the  use  of  the  articles  mentioned  above 
and  by  keeping  the  soak  vats  clean  by  frequent  changes  of 


PREPAKING  HEAVY  HIDES  FOR  TANNING. 


365 


water.  Old  stale  soaks  in  which  pack  after  pack  of  hides 
are  softened  and  in  which  blood,  salt  and  dirt  accumulate 
and  soon  putrefy,  certainly  soften  the  hides  in  a  reasonably 
short  time,  but  often  at  the  expense  of  some  desirable  quality 
of  the  leather.  The  bacteria  of  putrefaction  that  are  gen- 
erated in  foul  soaks  rapidly  dissolve  the  hide  substance,  and 
thus  affect  the  texture  and  weight  of  the  leather. 

A  good  method  to  follow  is  to  soak  the  hides  for  two  days, 
or  until  they  become  partially  softened  ;  then  to  split  them 
from  head  to  tail,  put  them  into  an  ordinary  revolving 
drum  or  pin-mill  and  drum  them  for  some  time.  This 
helps  in  the  softening.  The  sides  may  then  be  put  back 
into  the  soaks  for  another  day  or  two,  and  reworked  if  they 
require  it.  A  hide  mill  or  fulling  stocks  are  also  used. 
The  hides  should  not  be  subjected  to  the  milling  or  fulling 
process  until  they  are  sufficiently  soft  to  bend  them  without 
injury.  The  softer  and  cleaner  the  hides  are  before  they 
are  unhaired  the  better  will  be  the  final  results. 

A  good  method  of  soaking  dry  hides  is  to  put  them  in  a 
strong  brine  or  solution  of  salt  and  water.  In  a  soak  pre- 
pared of  salt  and  water  the  hides  may  remain  three  or  four 
days,  they  may  then  be  worked  in  a  hide-mill  or  drum  and 
then  resoaked  in  the  salt  water  for  four  or  five  days  longer 
or  until  they  have  become  soft.  Before  hides  treated  in  this 
way  are  limed  the  salt  should  be  gotten  rid  of  either  by 
soaking  or  washing  the  hides  in  clear  cold  water. 

An  old  practice  and  one  that  is  sometimes  employed  even 
at  the  present  time,  consists  in  soaking  dry  hides  in  old  tan 
liquors.  Under  ordinary  conditions  such  liquors  soften  the 
hides  in  a  short  time,  from  twelve  to  twenty -four  hours  ;  but 
their  use  is  very  unpleasant  and  somewhat  unhealthy.  The 
fibres  of  the  hides  are  contracted  and  this  results  in  shrink- 
age. After  dry  hides  are  soaked  and  softened,  they  are 
further  prepared  for  tanning,  and  are  tanned  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  salted  hides  are  treated.  The  methods 
of  handling  hides  vary  of  course  with  different  manufac- 
turers according  to  the  class  of  leather  being  made. 


366 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  methods  of  preparing  dry  hides  for  tanning,  after 
they  have  been  soaked  and  softened,  are  not  radically  dif- 
ferent from  those  employed  upon  salted  hides.  They  vary 
according  to  the  class  of  leather  being  made.  The  office  of 
any  material  used  for  the  purpose  of  preparing  hides  for 
soft,  supple  leather,  is  to  swell  and  distend  the  fibres,  thus 
loosening  the  hair  roots  so  that  the  hair  can  be  readily  re- 
moved ;  then  to  dissolve  the  perishable  animal  matter  of  the 
hides  so  that  it  can  be  removed  before  tanning.  When  these 
things  have  been  done,  soft  pliable  leather  can  be  made 
and  not  before.  To  accomplish  these  objects  lime  has  been 
used  for  a  great  many  years.  Its  use,  when  it  is  employed 
alone,  has  some  unpleasant  features.  On  hides  intended 
for  soft  leather,  the  action  of  lime  is  to  dissolve  the  animal 
matter  faster  than  it  distends  the  fibres,  and  the  result  is 
loose,  spongy  leather  with  a  loss  of  weight  and  substance. 
If  the  hides  are  not  limed  long  enough  to  dissolve  all  of  the 
animal  matter  in  them,  the  resulting  leather  finishes  up 
hard  and  firm.  To  overcome  the  objectionable  features  of 
lime,  sulphide  of  sodium  and  red  arsenic  are  used.  These 
materials  when  properly  used,  loosen  and  split  up  the  fibres, 
thus  loosening  the  hair  in  a  shorter  time  than  when  lime  is 
used  alone.  They  do  not  dissolve  as  much  of  the  hide  sub- 
stance as  lime  does ;  and  when  either  of  the  two  articles  is 
used  in  conjunction  with  lime  a  very  satisfactory  process  is 
obtained,  the  results  of  which  are  the  unhairing  of  the  hides 
and  the  preparing  of  them  for  tanning  in  a  comparatively 
short  time  and  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner. 

For  the  process  of  preparing  hides  for  soft  and  pliable 
leather  no  exact  rule  can  be  given  or  followed.  A  great 
deal  depends  upon  the  tannage  that  is  used,  and  the  degree 
of  flexibility  desired  in  the  leather.  It  is  generally  consid- 
ered by  good  tanners,  that  to  start  the  sides  in  old  weak 
lime  liquors  and  leave  them  therein  for  two  or  three  days, 
or  until  they  are  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  liquor, 
and  then  to  increase  the  strength  of  the  lime  by  the  addi- 


PREPARING  HEAVY  HIDES  FOR  TANNING.  367 

tion  of  new  lime,  or  to  pass  the  sides  along  into  stronger 
limes,  is  better  than  to  use  strong  limes  at  the  start,  especially 
when  leather,  of  which  softness  and  smoothness  of  grain  are 
essential  qualities,  is  wanted.  The  use  of  sulphide  of  sodium 
or  red  arsenic,  mixed  with  the  lime,  keeps  the  grain  from 
becoming  rough,  shortens  the  time  of  liming,  and  helps  to 
make  soft  leather  of  fine  texture.  Both  materials  are  very 
energetic  and  rapid  of  action.  Some  tanners  prefer  red 
arsenic  to  sulphide  of  sodium,  while  others  get  the  best  re- 
sults when  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used.  Red  arsenic  gives 
the  leather  considerable  elasticity  and  smoothness  of  grain, 
more  so  than  the  sulphide  of  sodium.  The  main  thing  for 
a  tanner  to  guard  against  is  liming  the  sides  too  long. 
From  five  to  seven  days  is  generally  sufficient,  although 
much  depends  upon  the  season  of  the  year,  and  the  temper- 
ature and  strength  of  the  liquor.  The  best  results  are 
obtained  when  limes  are  used  over  and  over  for  succeeding 
lots  of  sides,  provided  these  limes  are  kept  clean  and  not 
allowed  to  become  foul.  New  limes  used  during  the  entire 
process  do  not  give  to  the  leather  the  right  feeling  of  soft- 
ness and  pliability.  They  also  produce  harshness  of  grain 
and  fibre.  The  sides  are  tied  together  with  hooks  upon 
coming  from  the  soaks  and  after  having  been  trimmed 
and  fleshed  ;  and  before  going  into  the  limes  they  should 
be  well  drained  in  order  to  get  rid  of  salty  and  dirty  water. 
They  may  be  left  for  a  day  or  two  in  an  old  mat  lime. 

A  good  lime  can  be  prepared  by  using  two-thirds  old 
liquor  and  one-third  new,  that  is,  of  six  feet  of  liming  liquor 
in  the  vat,  four  feet  may  be  old  and  weak  liquor  and  two 
feet  new  and  fresh,  or  of  six  hundred  gallons  in  the  vat  four 
hundred  gallons  may  be  old  and  two  hundred  new.  In 
preparing  new  lime  one  hundred  pounds  of  lime  may  be 
slacked  in  twelve  pails  of  hot  water.  For  this  amount  five 
pounds  of  arsenic  may  be  used.  It  may  be  dissolved  sep- 
arately in  hot  water  and  then  added  to  the  slacked  lime. 
Both  materials  should  be  thoroughly  dissolved  before  com- 


368 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


ing  into  contact  with  the  stock.  The  quantities  of  arsenic 
and  lime  mentioned  are  enough  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
sides  to  begin  with.  After  the  sides  have  been  in  the  liquor 
for  one  day,  they  may  be  drawn  out  and  the  lime  well 
stirred  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  vat.  If  the  sides  are 
allowed  to  drain  before  they  are  put  back,  they  will  take 
up  the  lime  again  more  readily.  When  vats  with  paddles 
are  used  the  pulling  out  is  not  necessary,  although  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  keep  the  lime  well  stirred  up  from  the  bottom 
of  the  vat.  On  the  third  day  it  is  well  to  strengthen  the 
lime  by  the  addition  of  fresh  lime,  or  the  sides  may  be 
passed  along  into  a  stronger  lime.  The  strength  to  begin 
with  should  be  about  three  degrees  Twaddle,  and  by  the 
addition  of  lime  and  arsenic  the  strength  should  be  about 
six  degrees  towards  the  end  of  the  process.  These  are  safe 
strengths  to  work  by,  but  are  not  fixed. 

When  too  much  fresh  lime  is  used  toward  the  end  of  the 
process,  the  grain  is  liable  to  be  roughened.  This  may  be 
overcome  by  washing  in  a  manure  bate,  followed  by  a  bath 
of  lactic  acid.  After  the  hair  is  loosened  it  is  wise  to  leave 
the  sides  in  the  lime  for  a  day  or  two  longer,  as  this  not 
only  allows  the  hair  to  come  off"  readily  and  cleanly  but 
also  makes  the  leather  softer. 

A  good  method  to  follow  is  to  keep  the  sides  in  old  weak 
limes  for  four  or  five  days,  being  handled  each  day  and 
passed  into  stronger  limes.  On  the  fifth  day  the  sides  may 
be  put  into  fresh  lime.  This  may  be  made  up  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  pounds  of  lime  and  eight  pounds  of  arsenic 
for  three  thousand  pounds  of  raw  stock.  To  strengthen 
this  lime  when  the  sides  are  hauled  out  the  next  day,  sev- 
enty pounds  of  lime  and  four  pounds  of  arsenic  may  be 
used.  On  the  seventh  day  the  sides  may  be  unhaired,  and 
then  left  in  strong  lime  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  the 
process  will  be  completed.  No  dirt  should  be  allowed  to 
accumulate  in  the  limes,  as  the  cleaner  the  limes  are  the 
brighter  and  cleaner  is  the  grain  of  the  finished  leather. 


PREPARING  HEAVY  HIDES  FOR  TANNING. 


369 


When  sulphide  of  sodium  is  used  with  lime  it  is  employed 
in  much  the  same  manner  that  red  arsenic  is  used.  The  first 
lime  in  which  the  sides  are  placed  may  be  old  and  weak, 
and  the  sides  may  remain  in  this  lime  one  day.  Then  the 
lime  is  strengthened  up  with  sulphide  of  sodium ;  for 
three  thousand  pounds  of  raw  stock  two  hundred  pounds 
of  lime  and  twenty  pounds  of  sulphide  of  sodium  for  fresh 
lime.  On  the  third  or  fourth  day,  for  strengthening  up  the 
lime  seventy-five  pounds  of  lime  and  ten  pounds  of  sul- 
phide of  sodium  may  be  used.  From  five  to  seven  days 
liming  is  sufficient,  the  sides  being  then  unhaired. 

Satisfactory  results  are  also  obtained  by  the  use  of  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  lime  and  fifteen  pounds  of 
sulphide  of  sodium  for  each  one  thousand  pounds  of  stock. 
~  The  sides  should  be  handled  each  day  and  upon  the  third 
day  the  liquor  should  be  strengthened  by  the  addition  of 
one-third  the  quantities  of  lime  and  red  arsenic  first  put  in. 
A  little  more  lime  may  be  added  upon  the  fourth  day,  and 
in  six  days  the  stock  should  be  ready  for  unhairing. 

The  best  method  of  liming  the  hides  must  be  learned  by 
a  tanner  from  experience,  and  depends  largely  upon  the  tan- 
nage used  and  the  class  of  leather  being  made.  As  a  con- 
sequence it  is  impossible  to  give  any  hard  and  fixed  rule 
for  determining  the  strength  and  length  of  time  consumed 
in  the  liming  process.  The  old  limes  can  be  used  over  and 
over  by  being  strengthened  up  w^ith  lime  and  chemicals. 
Some  tanners  start  their  stock  in  new  and  strong  limes  and 
finish  up  in  weak  ones.  They  say  that  this  method  makes 
the  leather  very  plump  as  well  as  soft.  To  start  the  hides 
in  an  old  lime  and  gradually  increase  the;  strength  of  the 
liming  liquors  is,  however,  the  preferred  method,  as  there 
is  not  the  sudden  and  violent  swelling  of  the  fibres,  which 
often  results  in  making  the  grain  loose  from  the  flesh.  Ex- 
treme plumping  at  the  start  has  a  tendency  to  weaken  the 
fibres. 

For  the  making  of  soft,  pliable  leather,  of  which  som-e 
24 


370 


PRACTICAL  TANNING 


elasticity  and  smoothness  of  grain  are  essential  qualities,  it 
is  necessary  to  get  rid  of  all  the  lime  and  alkaline  sulphides 
acquired  by  the  stock  during  the  process  of  liming.  This 
result  is  accomplished  by  the  process  commonly  called  bat- 
ing. The  prime  object  of  this  process  is  to  remove  the 
lime,  thereby  getting  the  stock  in  neutral  condition  to  ac- 
cept the  tannage.  No  lime  whatever  can  be  allowed  in  the 
stock,  lime  being  the  great  obstacle  in  the  w^ay  of  getting 
soft  and  even-colored  leather. 

Tanners,  as  a  rule,  recognize  the  importance  of  the  bat- 
ing process,  as  they  are  well  aw^are  that  much  of  the  quality 
and  texture  of  their  leather  depends  upon  how  this  process 
is  carried  out. 

Dog,  pigeon  and  hen  manures  have  been  used  for  a  great 
many  years.  Their  use  is  unpleasant  in  the  extreme  and 
attended  by  many  dangers.  To  take  the  place  of  manures 
several  articles  have  been  introduced,  some  of  which  have 
met  with  success  in  practical  use.  The  use  of  chemical 
bates  is  on  the  increase,  owing  to  their  cleanliness,  safety 
and  cheapness.  In  another  part  of  this  book  descriptions 
of  several  practical  bating  processes  are  given. 

Bird  dung  is  very  rapid  in  its  action,  and  makes  the 
leather  silky  and  tough,  but  without  much  spring.  On  the 
other  hand  dog  dung  has  a  great  softening  effect,  and  pro- 
duces leather  with  considerable  elasticity.  The  best  results 
are  obtained  by  mixing  the  two  kinds.  Chicken  manure 
is  also  in  general  use.  A  detailed  description  of  manure 
bating  is  given  in  the  chapter  on  goatskins.  The  process 
is  applied  to  sides  in  much  the  same  manner  as  upon  goat- 
skins ;  and  the  best  results  are  secured  when,  after  bating, 
the  sides  are  washed  in  a  weak  lactic  acid  bath.  To  accom- 
plish rapid  tanning  the  sides  must  be  perfectly  free  from 
lime  before  they  go  into  the  tanning  liquors. 

Lactic  acid  is  one  of  the  safest  and  cleanest  articles  that 
a  tanner  can  use  as  a  bate.  For  sides  intended  for  either 
shoe  or  glove  leather  it  may  be  used  with  very  good  results. 


PREPARING  HEAVY   HIDES   FOR  TANNING.  371 

After  the  sides  are  taken  from  the  limes,  they  are  washed, 
preferably  in  warm  water,  in  order  to  remove  from  them  as 
much  lime  as  possible.  A  paddle  vat  or  reel  is  filled  with 
the  requisite  quantity  of  water  heated  to  about  95  degrees 
Fah.  To  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  warm  water  about 
one  gallon  of  lactic  acid  may  be  used.  The  amount  of  acid 
required,  however,  depends  upon  the  amount  of  lime  pres- 
ent, and  may  be  varied  to  suit  the  requirements.  A  warm 
bate  serves  to  neutralize  the  lime  and  also  to  bring  down 
the  stock,  making  it  thin  and  soft,  while  a  cool  bate,  though 
it  neutralizes  the  lime  satisfactority,  leaves  the  stock  plump. 
After  being  paddled  about  in  the  liquor  for  from  one  to  two 
hours,  the  sides  will  be  found  to  be  sufficiently  drenched  to 
be  removed  and  given  the  usual  working  upon  the  grain. 
Stock  bated  in  this  way  will  bear  a  much  harder  w^orking 
upon  the  grain  than  stock  bated  with  manures.  After  the 
working,  the  sides  may  be  put  back  into  another  drench 
prepared  with  one-half  the  quantity  of  acid  used  in  the  first 
instance.  At  the  end  of  one  hour  they  may  be  removed 
and  washed  off,  and  will  then  be  in  condition  for  tanning. 
The  lactic  acid  baths  can  be  freshened  up  for  succeeding 
lots  of  skins  by  the  addition  of  one-half  the  quantity  of 
acid  used  in  the  first  instance.  When  the  hides  have  been 
split  after  liming,  less  bating  is  required  than  when  they 
are  not  split  until  after  being  tanned. 

Lactic  acid  dissolves  the  lime  in  the  stock  without  affect- 
ing the  tissues  or  fibres  of  the  hides. 

Leather  made  by  a  vegetable  process  frequently  shows 
dark  and  brittle  spots  upon  the  grain.  These  are  the  result 
of  lime  left  in  the  stock.  Hard,  brittle  leather,  with  little 
or  no  give  or  elasticity  also  results  when  lime  is  left  in  the- 
stock. 


CHAPTER  XXIL 


SIDE  LEATHERS  FOR  SHOE  PURPOSES  AND  METHODS 
OF  TANNING  THEM. 

In  the  making  of  side  leathers  that  are  finished  upon  the 
grain  and  intended  for  shoe  leather  various  processes  of 
tanning  are  employed.  Straight  hemlock  liquors  are  used 
and  combinations  of  hemlock  extract  with  other  extracts, 
such  as  quebracho  and  gambler;  palmetto  extract  is  used 
alone,  also  in  combination  with  other  tannages  ;  gambler  is 
used  in  the  same  manner  as  palmetto  ;  the  dongola  process 
is  sometimes  employed,  also  combination  processes  of 
chrome  and  vegetable  tannages.  The  tanning  is  done  in 
vats  provided  with  paddles  by  which  the  tanning  liquor  i& 
stirred,  and  also  in  pits  in  which  the  sides  are  suspended, 
and  not  subjected  to  much  agitation.  The  less  agitation 
the  sides  are  subjected  to  the  fuller  and  plumper  is  the 
leather,  especially  in  the  flanks  and  along  the  sides. 

Some  tanners  start  the  tanning  in  hemlock  liquors,  and 
after  the  stock  is  well  struck  and  split,  they  finish  in  gam- 
bier  or  other  liquors. 

Gambler  has  long  been  a  staple  tanning  material.  The 
leather  it  makes  is  soft  and  tough  and  readily  adapted  for 
coloring  and  finishing  in  any  desired  manner.  Very  good 
leather  is  made  by  combining  gambier  with  a  chrome  or 
mineral  process. 

The  tanning  with  gambier,  when  it  is  used  alone,  is  a 
very  simple  straightforward  process.  The  sides  are  entered 
into  a  weak  liquor  at  the  start,  which  is  gradually  strength- 
ened by  the  addition  of  fresh  gambier  until  it  becomes 
fairly  strong  towards  the  end  of  the  process.  Common  salt 
4serves  a  useful  purpose  in  gambier  tanning.     It  assists- 

(372) 


SIDE  LEATHEKS   FOR  SHOE  PURPOSES.  373 

greatly  in  making  soft  leather  and  also  hastens  the  tanning 
process  and  prevents  contraction  of  the  leather  fibres.  Pad- 
dle-vats are  very  convenient  to  use.  It  is  well  for  the  tan- 
ner to  divide  the  vats  into  three  sections.  In  the  first  sec- 
tion the  sides  are  handled  and  colored;  in  the  second  section 
the  tanning  is  carried  forward  until  the  stock  is  ready  for 
splitting ;  and  in  the  third  and  last  section  the  retanning 
or  tanning  after  splitting  is  done.  At  the  beginning  the 
liquor  may  be  four  to  five  degrees  barkometer.  After  the 
sides  have  been  put  into  the  liquor  they  should  be  stirred 
about  by  the  paddles  for  one  hour  to  assure  a  good  color 
upon  the  grain.  The  liquor  should  be  strengthened  twice 
•each  day,  the  quantity  of  fresh  gambier  liquor  required 
depending  upon  the  size  of  the  vats  and  the  strength  of  the 
liquors  to  begin  with.  No  exact  quantities  can  be  stated, 
vas  each  tanner  must  decide  this  and  many  other  points  by 
his  judgment.  The  turning  over  of  the  sides  in  the  liquor 
hastens  the  tanning  and  by  changing  their  position  assures 
a  uniform  color.  The  liquors  used  at  the  beginning  of  the 
process  for  coloring  and  striking  should  be  run  out  at  least 
as  often  as  once  a  week  as  they  soon  become  almost  worth- 
less. When  still  tanning  is  done,  the  sides  are  nailed  on 
sticks  and  left  hanging  in  the  liquors.  They  are  tanned, 
split  and  retanned.  Palmetto  extract  is  a  very  good  re- 
tanning  material  for  both  splits  and  grains.  It  puts  the 
leather  into  condition  to  stand  heat  well  and  to  take  and 
carry  the  grease  well,  and  it  also  gives  to  it  waterproof 
qualities  and  toughens  it.  After  the  leather  is  tanned 
through  it  may  be  strengthened  and  cleared  by  being  run 
in  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  alum  and  salt. 

In  about  thirty  gallons  of  w^ater  are  dissolved  fifteen 
pounds  of  alum  and  ten  pounds  of  salt,  this  quantity  of 
liquor  being  enough  for  one  hundred  and  twenty  sides  of 
medium  size.  In  this  solution  the  sides  are  drummed  for 
thirty  minutes,  and  should  then  be  allowed  to  drain  off  well. 
It  is  well  to  remove  the  surplus  tanning  liquor  by  washing 


374 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


the  leather  in  a  drum  in  lukewarm  water  for  about  tw^enty 
minutes.  This  is  an  advantage  for  colored  leather  but  not 
necessary  on  black  leather.  Then  the  leather  is  ready  for 
pressing,  and  may  be  fat-liquored  and  dried  out;  or  it 
may  be  dried  out  first  and  then  moistened  back  and  fat- 
liquored. 

Palmetto  extract 
Is  a  very  useful  tanning  material  to  use  either  in  place  of 
gambler,  or  in  combination  with  the  same.  It  may  also  be 
used  with  good  results  in  conjunction  with  hemlock  and 
other  tannages.  The  sides  may  be  tanned  in  liquors  made 
up  of  palmetto  and  other  extracts  in  almost  any  proportion,, 
or  they  may  be  well  struck  with  hemlock  or  other  liquors^ 
and  after  being  split  they  may  be  retanned  in  palmetta 
liquors.  This  material  gives  good  weight  and  is  a  rapid 
tanner.  It  makes  full,  plump  leather,  tough  and  of  good 
color,  and  able  to  stand  a  great  deal  of  heat. 

A  good  method  of  tanning  the  sides  in  palmetto  liquor 
Is  to  take  the  same  after  fleshing,  bating  and  washing  and 
paddle  them  about  in  a  bath  of  muriatic  acid  for  one  hour. 
For  fifteen  hundred  pounds  of  sides  nine  pounds  of  muriatic 
acid  may  be  used,  and  after  this  the  sides  may  be  passed 
through  a  manure  bath  for  one  hour,  at  a  temperature  of 
85^  F.,  and  then  slicked  out  and  drained.  The  tanning 
may  be  begun  by  nailing  the  sides  on  sticks  and  immersing 
them  in  an  extract  liquor  beginning  at  12°  Barkometer, 
and  ending  at  20°,  the  time  being  about  six  days.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  color  every  part  alike.  The  sides  are 
then  taken  off  the  sticks  and  passed  into  a  30°  Baume  pal- 
metto liquor.  In  this  liquor  they  should  be  handled  twice 
daily  so  that  the  tanning  may  be  uniform.  In  about  six 
days  the  sides  are  tanned  through,  and  are  then  pressed 
and  split.  The  retanning  is  done  in  a  weak  palmetto  liquor 
12°  Baume,  which  is  increased  to  30°.  In  six  hours  they 
iire  thoroughly  tanned.     The  grain  is  made  tough  and 


SIDE  LEATHERS  FOR  SHOE  PURPOSES.  875 

strong  and  not  loose  or  liable  to  ''pipe."  Light  sides,  or 
sides  that  have  been  split  before  tanning,  and  kips  may  be 
readily  tanned  in  drums.  They  are  started  in  a  weak,  cold 
palmetto  liquor  for  one  hour,  the  strength  of  which  may 
be  about  10°  Barkometer.  They  are  then  tanned  in  a 
drum  with  a  liquor  of  30°  Baume,  51  Twaddell,  at  a  tem- 
perature of  75°  F.  For  seven  hundred  pounds  of  hides 
four  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  extract  are  used.  The 
wheel  should  rotate  the  same  number  of  times  one  way  as 
the  other.  In  from  six  to  eight  hours  the  stock  will  be 
tanned.  It  may  then  be  pressed,  split  and  retanned  for 
one  hour  in  a  liquor  of  8°  or  10°  Barkometer.  It  may 
also  be  retanned  in  a  drum  for  one  hour  with  strength  of 
liquor  30°  Baume,  51  Twaddell,  after  which  it  is  washed  in 
lukewarm  water.  The  water  used  for  this  washing  may 
be  used  for  coloring  a  fresh  pack  of  stock  as  it  comes  from 
the  beam-house.  The  leather  after  washing  is  pressed  and 
fat-liquored. 

The  tanning  of  side  leather  may  be  commenced  in  hem- 
lock liquors,  and  after  splitting  the  sides  may  be  retanned 
in  gambler  or  palmetto  liquors.  This  method  is  very  satis- 
factory. Tanning  extracts  are  used  in  a  great  number  of 
combinations.  Quebracho  and  gambler  are  combined  with 
good  results,  also  hemlock  and  quebracho.  The  latter 
named  tannage  produces  the  best  results  when  it  is  used  in 
combination  with  some  other  tannage.  At  one  time  que- 
bracho extract  was  almost  all  made  in  liquid  form,  but 
the  solid  extract  is  now  preferred,  owing  to  economy  in 
freights,  etc. 

Quebracho,  it^  qualities  and  its  use 

Quebracho  is  not  a  good  plumper,  and  for  this  reason 
some  material  is  necessary  to  plump  the  leather.  Lactic 
acid  used  in  the  handling  process  increases  the  plumpness 
of  the  stock.  A  small  per  cent,  of  divi-divi  used  in  connec- 
tion with  quebracho  tends  to  improve  the  color. 


376 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


The  Quebracho  tree  grows  in  the  central  part  of  the 
Argentine  Republic,  and  is  one  of  the  hardest  woods  known. 
It  is  most  difficult  to  cut,  and  derives  its  name  (Quebrar  " 
— to  break — ache  " — an  axe)  from  the  fact  that  the  best 
axes  go  to  pieces  in  cutting  down  the  trees.  The  trees  are 
of  extremely  slow  growth,  and  logs  such  as  are  shipped  to 
the  United  States  and  Europe  for  purposes  of  making  ex- 
tract are  often  a  thousand  years  old.  The  heaviest  ma- 
chinery is  required  for  cutting  this  wood  up  into  a  form 
suitable  for  extraction,  and,  owing  to  its  great  weight,  the 
handling  of  Quebracho  logs,  which  often  weigh  two  or 
three  tons  each,  is  both  difficult  and  dangerous.  The  bark 
of  the  Quebracho  tree  is  useless  for  tanning  purposes,  and 
together  with  the  sap-wood  is  removed  before  the  logs  are 
ready  for  shipment. 

The  extract  made  from  the  wood  of  the  Quebracho  tree 
is  different  from  all  other  known  tanning  extracts,  chiefly 
in  the  fact,  that  it  will  not  turn  sour.  In  addition  to  this, 
it  is  a  comparatively  clean  extract,  that  is  to  say,  it  con- 
tains a  higher  percentage  of  tan  to  a  given  density  than  any 
other  of  the  well  known  extracts.  Inasmuch  as  it  has  little 
or  no  tendency  to  fermentation,  Quebracho  is  extremely 
useful  for  controlling  the  acid  in  tan  yards  that  tend  to  go 
sour.  On  the  other  hand,  if  it  is  used  in  yards,  where  con- 
siderable acid  is  needed,  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  the 
sweetening  up  of  the  liquors  by  the  use  of  too  much  of  this 
extract.  This  is  obviated  by  the  use  of  artificial  acid,  or, 
as  in  Europe,  by  the  employment  of  other  tannins,  which 
contain  a  large  proportion  of  other  materials. 

Quebracho,  being  a  sweet  tan,  is  not  of  itself  a  plumper^ 
and  if  it  is  used  on  leather  which  has  not  been  properly 
plumped,  is  apt  to  quickly  tan  the  outside  of  the  hides,  and 
thereby  prevent  the  penetration  of  the  tan  to  the  inside. 
This  results  in  cracky  leather  not  properl}^  filled.  If, 
however,  hides  are  plumped  before  going  into  Quebracho 
liquor,  this  material  will  penetrate,  fill,  and  produce  tough 
pliable  stock  of  light  color. 


SIDE  LEATHERS  FOR  SHOE   PURPOSES.  377 

A  very  important  point  to  be  observed  in  using  Que- 
l3racho  extract  is,  that  it  should  be  dissolved  properly.  Solid 
extract  needs  to  be  boiled  up  in  hot  water,  in  a  tub  contain- 
ing a  false  screen  bottom  which  prevents  the  extract  adher- 
ing to  a  solid  surfixce.  The  liquid  extract  should  be  dis- 
solved in  water  standing  at  180  degrees.  The  resulting 
solutions  from  both  grades  of  extract,  should  then  be  stirred 
well  and  allowed  to  cool  down  gradually  before  being  used. 
It  is  a  great  mistake  to  run  off  hot  Quebracho  liquor  into 
cold  vat  liquors,  or  in  fact  to  suddenly  chill  any  extract 
liquor.  Such  sediment  as  remains  in  the  cooling  tub  may 
be  worked  up  with  fresh  water  on  a  tail  leach  or  elsewhere. 

A  great  deal  depends  upon  the  proper  dissolving  of  Que- 
■bracho  in  its  successful  use  in  the  vats,  and  it  is  far  better 
^  that  such  precipitation  as  takes  place  should  go  on  in  the 
cooling  tub  rather  than  on  the  leather. 

l.lie  use  of  the  Barkometer.  The  barkometer  underrates 
the  strength  of  tannin  in  Quebracho  when  compared  to  the 
strength  of  ordinary  bark  liquors.  This  is  owing  to  the 
fact  that  the  Quebracho  w^ood  contains  very  much  less  ma- 
terial which  forces  up  a  barkometer  than  does  bark.  A 
pure  Quebracho  liquor,  for  instance,  made  up  from  nothing 
but  Quebracho  extract  and  water  at  20°  Barkometer  is  fully 
^is  strong  in  tan  as  a  sweet  bark  liquor  of  about  30°  Bark- 
ometer. This  variation  in  the  barkometer  value  must  be 
taken  into  consideration,  or  else  the  tanner  is  apt  to  get  the 
Quebracho  liquor  too  strong  and  burn  the  fibre  of  the 
leather. 

Quebracho,  being  sweet,  tends  to  make  pliable  leather 
rather  than  hard  leather,  the  latter  resulting  more  or  less 
from  sour  liquors.  On  heavy  . leathers,  such  as  harness  and 
belting,  it  is  extremely  useful  on  account  of  the  toughness 
which  it  gives  to  the  leather.  On  sole  leather,  when  it  is 
used  with  bark,  it  gives  a  somewhat  mellower  feel  than  the 
straight  bark  tannage. 

It  is  being  used  with  success  on  upper  leathers  for  a  fore- 


378 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


tannage,  and  also  for  retanning  splits  coming  therefrom. 
On  patent  leather  it  is  particularly  useful  on  account  of  the 
pliable  qualities  which  it  gives  to  stock  that  is  to  receive  a 
coating  of  varnish. 

Quebracho  produces  leather  of  an  oak  shade,  with  a  very 
slight  pinkish  tendency.  Leather  tanned  with  this  mate- 
rial, however,  should  not  be  dried  in  the  sun,  as  the  color 
becomes  red  on  exposure  to  the  light. 

Hides  that  are  intended  for  quebracho  liquors  should  be 
very  thoroughly  cleansed  from  lime,  that  is  to  say,  properly 
bated,  since  Quebracho  and  lime  do  not  go  at  all  well  to- 
gether. Bark  liquors  act  more  or  less  as  a  bate  all  the  w^ay 
through,  but  Quebracho,  with  its  peculiar  sweetness,  does  not 
do  so  and  on  coming  into  contact  with  lime  in  hide  fibre 
produces  bad  grain  and  bad  color. 

Quebracho  is  useful  in  the  tanning  of  heavy  leathers  in 
strengthening  the  head  liquors,  and  in  keeping  them  sweet- 
It  penetrates  very  quickly  and  by  its  use  tanners  are  often 
enabled  to  increase  the  weight  of  their  leather.  The  best 
results  are  obtained  by  mixing  Quebracho  extract  with  other 
tanning  materials,  such  as  oak  and  hemlock  in  the  tanning 
of  heavy  leathers.  The  process  of  tanning  is  quickened  by 
the  use  of  Quebracho,  and  the  cost  of  tanning  is  somewhat 
cheapened.  It  is  useful  in  making  sole  leather  as  well  as 
upper  and  harness. 

Retanning  with  gam  bier  or  palmetto 

Leather  that  has  been  tanned  in  a  chrome  process  may 
be  retanned  with  gambier  or  palmetto.  The  latter  extract 
has  the  good  effects  of  neutralizing  any  trace  of  acid  left  in 
the  leather,  and  also  serves  to  put  the  leather  in  good  con- 
dition to  receive  any  shade  of  color  or  black.  The  grain  is 
made  smooth  and  remains  so.  For  the  retanning,  for  three 
thousand  pounds  of  chrome  leather,  three  gallons  of  pal- 
metto extract  and  one  pint  of  glycerine  may  be  used.  The 
extract  is  dissolved  in  the  amount  of  warm  water  necessary, 


SIDE  LEATHERS  FOR  SHOE  PURPOSES. 


371> 


the  same  being  when  ready  for  use  about  90  degrees  of  tem- 
perature, and  the  leather  drummed  in  the  liquor  for  from 
one  to  two  hours.  When  a  one-bath  process  is  used,  the 
sides  may  be  tanned  first  in  chrome  liquors  in  drums,  or 
paddle-vats,  and  then  retanned  in  gambler  or  palmetto. 
For  the  chrome  process,  the  sides  should  be  split  before 
they  are  tanned,  immediately  after  liming,  and  then  bated, 
washed  and  tanned.  The  sides  may  also  be  given  the 
palmetto  liquor  first,  and  afterwards  the  chrome  process. 
One-bath  liquors  are  handled  in  the  same  manner  as  bark 
or  gambler  liquors — that  is,  the  sides  are  started  in  a  weak 
liquor  and  this  is  gradually  strengthened  until  it  becomes 
strong,  containing  about  five  gallons  of  concentrated  tan- 
ning liquor  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  water.  The  tanning 
with  chrome  liquors  is  also  done  in  drums. 

Salt  is  necessary  in  most  chrome  processes.  It  keeps  the 
stock  open  and  plump  and  receptive  to  the  tanning  liquor, 
and  also  hastens  the  tanning  process  and  helps  in  making 
soft  leather. 

In  paddle-vats  or  vats  with  rockers,  a  two  per  cent,  liquor 
is  used  at  the  start,  and  this  is  gradually  strengthened  until 
it  becomes  a  five  or  six  per  cent,  solution,  that  is,  to  one 
hundred  gallons  of  water  in  the  vat  about  two  gallons  of 
tanning  fluid  are  used  at  the  beginning  of  the  process  and 
during  the  tanning  enough  concentrated  tanning  liquor  is 
added  to  make  the  liquor  from  four  to  six  per  cent.  Soft 
water  should  always  be  used,  as  hard  water  contains  too 
much  lime  and  magnesia. 

The  sides  may  be  first  tanned  with  alum  and  salt  and 
then  chrome  tanned.  The  less  pounding  and  drumming 
the  sides  are  subjected  to  the  finer  and  plumper  the 
leather.  The  best  method  of  tanning  is  by  suspending  the 
stock  in  the  liquor,  as  by  this  method  there  is  little  or  no 
pounding  or  agitation.  The  first  cost  of  tanning  sides  by 
suspension  is  more  than  by  other  ways,  as  a  large  quantity 
of  liquor  must  be  made  up,  but  after  one  lot  of  sides  is- 


380 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


taken  out  another  lot  can  be  put  in  and  the  entire  strength 
thus  exhausted;  the  suspension  method  being  thus  the 
cheapest  in  the  long  run.  Before  chronie  tanned  sides  are 
retanned  in  a  vegetable  process  they  should  be  thoroughly 
washed  and  pressed. 

The  dongola  tannage 
Consists  of  salt,  alum  and  gambier.  The  sides,  when  split 
before  being  tanned,  may  be  tanned  in  the  dongola  liquor, 
or  when  they  are  not  split  until  after  tanning  they  may  be 
started  in  hemlock  liquors  or  any  other  liquor  or  combina- 
tions of  tannages,  and  when  well  struck  with  the  tanning 
liquor  they  may  be  split  and  retanned  in  a  dongola  liquor. 

A  combination  process  of  gambier  and  quebracho 
Also  makes  good  leather.  The  sides  for  this  process  may  be 
started  in  bark  tan  liquors  and  left  therein  for  four  or  five 
days,  then  washed  well  in  cold  water,  pressed  and  split. 
After  splitting  the  stock  may  be  skived  and  then  split  again 
to  the  desired  substance.  The  splits  may  go  back  into  the 
bark  liquor  for  the  retannage. 

In  this  way  the  splits  are  all  bark  tanned.  The  grain 
sides  may  be  tanned,  or  rather  retanned,  in  quebracho  and 
gambier.  Gambier  may  be  used  alone,  or  palmetto  may  be 
mixed  with  quebracho,  and  either  palmetto  or  quebracho 
may  also  be  used  alone.  Some  tanners  who  tan  the  grains 
•of  the  split  sides  in  a  chrome  process  first  mill  the  sides 
in  salt  and  alum  before  splitting  them.  When  this  is 
done,  the  grains  go  at  once  into  chrome  process  while  the 
splits  are  tanned  out  in  a  vegetable  process.  The  best 
way  to  treat  such  splits  full  of  alum  and  salt  is  to  mill 
them  in  a  drum  in  a  weak  gambier  liquor  until  they 
are  thoroughly  softened.  Then  they  may  be  retanned 
in  extract  or  bark  liquors  until  they  are  thorooghly 
tanned  and  filled.  In  this  way  no  salt  and  alum  will  be 
left  in  the  stock  to  spew  out  upon  the  surface  after  the 
leather  is  dried  out.    To  wash  the  splits  in  water  previous 


SIDE  LEATHERS   FOR  SHOE  PURPOSES. 


381 


to  putting  them  in  the  bark  or  extract  liquors  makes  them 
flat  and  lacking  in  plumpness.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
plump  them  again,  and  nothing  but  flabby  leather  would 
result.  By  milling  them  up  in  a  gambler  liquor  the  plump- 
ness and  fullness  are  retained. 

When  the  sides  are  split  immediately  after  the  liming 
process  is  completed,  the  splits  should  be  bated  and 
drenched,  and  then  tanned  in  bark  or  extract  liquors.  In 
vats  from  eighteen  to  twenty  days  suffice.  The  grains  taken 
from  the  sides  in  this  way  of  splitting  them  may  be  bated 
and  washed  and  tanned  in  chrome,  gambler,  palmetto  or 
combination  processes.  This  branch  of  leather  making  is 
a  success,  the  demand  for  leather  made  in  this  way  being 
on  the  increase.  By  splitting  the  hides  in  the  green  condi- 
tion, recently  made  more  practicable  than  ever  by  improve- 
ments in  the  belt  knife  splitting  machine,  there  is  given  a 
yield  of  leather  from  one  to  one  and  one-half  pounds  greater 
per  side  than  when  the  splitting  is  done  after  the  sides  have 
been  partially  tanned.  Neither  is  there  any  strength  lost 
by  green  splitting. 

A  good  dongola  liquor. 

In  some  instances  sides  that  have  been  tanned  in  hem- 
lock or  combination  liquors  are  split  and  the  grains  are 
then  retanned  in  dongola  liquor.  A  good  dongola  liquor 
for  this  purpose  may  be  made  of  the  following  proportions : 
In  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  are  dissolved  by  boiling 
thirty  pounds  of  salt  and  forty  pounds  of  alum.  These 
should  be  boiled  until  they  are  thoroughly  dissolved.  One 
hundred  and  eighty  pounds  of  gambler  are  boiled  in  two 
hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water  until  dissolved,  and  the 
gambler  liquor  is  then  added  to  the  salt  and  alum  solution 
in  a  vat  or  pit.  By  the  addition  of  one  hundred  gallons 
more  of  water  and  one  quart  of  sulphuric  acid  there  are 
made  five  hundred  gallons  of  dongola  liquor. 

When  the  retanning  in  the  dongola  liquor  is  completed 


382 


PRACTICAL  TANNING, 


the  leather  is  washed  and  pressed,  and  then  given  oil  in  a 
drum.  Three  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  may  be  used  for  this 
purpose  for  each  three  hundred  pounds  of  leather.  Fish 
oil  may  also  be  used.  The  leather  is  drummed  in  the  oil 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  The 
oil  prevents  the  grain  from  cracking  during  drying.  The 
sides  are  then  stored  away  until  they  are  to  be  finished. 
When  a  dongola  process  is  used  from  the  beginning,  the 
sides  are  pickled  after  bating  and  washing  in  salt,  sulphuric 
acid  and  water — five  hundred  gallons  of  the  latter  and  two 
hundred  pounds  of  salt,  and  thirty-five  pounds  of  acid  being 
used,  and  the  sides  stirred  about  therein  for  six  hours. 
Then  they  are  entered  into  a  gambier,  salt  and  alum  liquor. 
The  gambier  liquor  should  be  about  six  degrees  barkometer, 
to  which  are  added  ten  pounds  of  alum  and  seven  pounds 
of  salt  for  each  one  hundred  gallons  of  liquor.  When 
tanned,  the  sides  are  drained  or  pressed  and  then  split.  The 
second  tanning  liquor  should  be  a  straight  gambier  liquor. 
Leather  is  also  made  by  applying  first  the  alum  and  salt, 
and  then  the  gambier  liquor. 

The  strength  of  tanning  liquors  must  be  decided  by  the 
tanner  for  himself.  It  depends  upon  the  season  of  the  year 
and  upon  the  results  of  the  liquor  upon  the  stock.  The 
best  guide  to  follow  is  constant  observation  of  the  effects 
of  the  liquors  upon  the  leather. 

The  splits  taken  from  the  sides  are  tanned  in  almost  as 
many  ways  as  the  grains.  The  process  used  depends  upon 
wliat  the  tanned  leather  is  to  be  used  for,  and  may  be  hem- 
lock, quebracho,  gambier,  dongola,  bark  or  combination. 
Splits  are  used  for  a  great  number  of  purposes — innersol- 
ing,  chair  leather,  mitten  stock,  wax  shoe  leather,  binding 
leather  and  many  other  uses. 

CHROME-TANNED  SIDE  LEATHER. 

When  the  grains  come  from  the  splitting  machine,  they 
may  be  put  back  into  lime  for  a  day  or  two,  depending 


SIDE  LEATHEKS  FOR  SHOE  I'URPOSES.  383 

upon  how  much  liming  they  received  before  splitting.  For 
the  bating  process  manure  may  be  used,  but  it  is  best  to 
combine  it  with  lactic  acid,  that  is  to  give  the  grains  a 
drenching  in  lactic  acid  after  they  have  been  bated  with 
manure.  Lactic  acid  may  also  be  used  alone,  also  any 
other  process  of  bating  with  which  the  tanner  may  be 
familiar.  Pigeon  manure  seems  to  be  better  adapted  to 
this  class  of  stock  than  any  other.  It  may  be  combined 
with  hen  manure  in  equal  proportions  with  good  results. 
After  the  grains  have  been  bated  in  a  manure  bate  they 
should  be  drenched  in  lactic  acid.  A  bath  should  be  pre- 
pared of  warm  water  preferably  in  a  paddle-vat,  and  for 
every  hundred  pounds  of  sides  that  have  been  bated  with 
manure  from  one-fourth  to  one-half  of  a  pound  of  lactic 
~acid  should  be  added  to  the  warm  water.  In  the  prepared 
drench,  the  grains  should  be  drenched  for  three-fourths  of 
an  hour,  then  washed  off  in  warm  water  and  are  then 
ready  for  tanning.  The  grains  can  also  be  drenched  in  a 
drum,  being  run  therein  for  fifteen  minutes.  To  drench 
the  stock  with  lactic  acid  after  it  has  been  bated  with 
manure  is  the  best  possible  manner  of  preparing  it,  as  it 
makes  it  perfectly  clean  and  free  from  lime. 

The  use  of  manure  may  be  dispensed  with  and  the  grains 
bated  and  drenched  with  lactic  acid  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  After  the  grains  come  from  the  limes  or  the  splitting 
machine  and  have  been  washed,  a  bath  of  warm  water  is 
prepared  and  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  stock  one  pound 
of  lactic  acid  should  be  added  to  the  water.  The  sides  are 
processed  in  this  liquor  for  about  two  hours ;  they  are  then 
put  through  the  slating  machine  or  worked  on  the  grain, 
after  which  they  are  again  drenched  with  lactic  acid  in  a 
bath  made  up  of  sufficient  warm  water  and  one-half  of  a 
pound  of  acid  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  stock.  In  this 
they  are  processed  for  one  hour ;  and  are  then  washed  in 
clean  water  and  are  ready  to  tan. 

A  lactic  acid  bath  can  be  used  over  and  over  by  freshen- 


384 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


iiig  it  up  each  time  with  one-half  the  quantity  of  acid  used 
in  the  first  instance. 

Tanning  the  grains. 

To  accomplish  the  tanning  of  the  grains  both  one-bath 
and  two-bath  processes  may  be  used.  When  the  regular 
two-bath  process  is  used,  the  sides  need  not  be  pickled 
previous  to  tanning.  Two-bath  processes  have  been  fully 
described  in  other  portions  of  this  work,  and  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  repeat  the  descriptions  here.  The  proportions  of  in- 
gredients used,  and  the  manner  of  using  them  are  the  same 
as  when  other  classes  of  skins  are  being  tanned. 

When  the  one-bath  process  is  used  there  is  always  a  ten- 
denc}^  of  the  liquors  to  draw  the  grain  and  contract  the 
fibres.  Common  salt  serves  to  prevent  this  to  some  extent,, 
and  it  should  be  used  freely  in  one-bath  tanning. 

Good  process  of  one-hatli  tanning. 

A  method  of  using  the  one-bath  process  that  results  in 
tanning  the  grains  without  drawing  the  grain  is  carried  out 
in  the  following  manner :  The  sides,  after  bating  and  drench- 
ing, are  pickled  in  salt,  sulphuric  acid  and  water.  For  two 
hundred  pounds  of  stock  weighed  after  washing,  two  and 
one-half  quarts  of  acid  and  fifty  pounds  of  salt  in  sufficient 
water  to  cover  the  sides  are  used.  The  sides  should  be 
stirred  about  in  the  pickle  for  six  hours,  although  they  may 
be  left  in  longer  without  injury,  and  upon  being  removed 
from  the  liquor  they  should  be  well  drained  before  they  are 
tanned.  The  drained  pickled  sides  are  then  weighed.  For 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  the  same  a  solution  is  pre- 
pared of  three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina  boiled  until 
dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water. 

Another  solution  consisting  of  three  pounds  of  sal-soda, 
dissolved  by  boiling  in  five  gallons  of  water  is  prepared. 
The  soda  solution  is  poured  slowly  and  with  constant  stir- 
ring into  the  alumina  solution,  and  when  both  are  com- 
bined they  should  be  allowed  to  cool  or  enough  cold  water 


SIDE  LEATHERS  FOR  SHOE  PURPOSES. 


385 


should  be  run  in  to  reduce  the  temperature  of  the  solution 
to  85°  before  the  liquor  is  used. 

The  drained  pickled  sides  are  put  into  a  drum  with  ten 
pounds  of  salt  and  five  gallons  of  water  for  each  hundred 
pounds  of  pickled  sides.  In  this  salt  and  water  the  sides 
are  drummed  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  the  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina  and  sal-soda  is  poured  into  the  drum  and 
the  sides  drummed  in  the  same  for  about  one  hour.  Then 
the  tanning  liquor  is  added  in  portions  of  one  gallon  at  a 
time  at  intervals  of  one-half  hour,  and  the  drumming  con- 
tinued for  three  or  four  hours,  or  until  the  sides  are  tanned. 
Three  gallons  of  tanning  material  are  usually  sufficient  for 
each  hundred  pounds  of  stock  in  the  drum,  although  it  is 
always  economy  to  use  plenty  of  liquor,  even  more  than  is 
necessary  in  order  that  the  leather  may  be  thoroughly 
tanned.  To  finish  the  tanning  from  one  pound  to  one  and 
one-half  pounds  of  salts  of  tartar  should  be  dissolved,  and 
added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum,  after  which  the  drum- 
ming should  be  continued  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 
The  tanning  should  now  be  complete,  but  in  case  of  any 
doubt  in  the  mind  of  the  tanner  the  sides  may  be  run  in 
the  drum  longer,  and  they  may  also  be  allowed  to  lie  in  the 
liquor  some  hours. 

When  thoroughly  tanned,  the  sides  may  be  removed  from 
the  drum  and  thrown  over  horses  so  that  they  are  smoothed 
out  and  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  some  hours ;  then 
they  should  be  washed  for  one-half  hour  in  borax  water — 
two  pounds  of  borax  used  in  sufficient  water  for  every  one 
hundred  pounds  of  leather — and  then  in  clean  water  fur 
one  hour,  or  until  the  leather  is  perfectly  neutral  and  clean. 
Any  good  chrome  process  may  be  used  in  making  chrome 
upper  from  cow-hides.  The  leather  may  be  made  by  tan- 
ning the  sides  in  vats  with  paddles,  or  with  rockers,  in  the 
same  manner  that  they  are  tanned  in  bark  or  extract 
liquors,  by  being  started  in  a  weak  liquor  two  or  three  per 
cent.,  that  is  two  or  three  gallons  of  tanning  liquor  added 
25 


386 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


to  one  hundred  gallons  of  water — and  by  finishing  up  in  a 
strong  liquor,  six  or  seven  per  cent.  Heavy  sides  may  be 
shaved  after  tanning  and  retanned  if  necessary. 

When  the  tanning,  or  the  retanning  is  completed,  the 
sides  should  be  very  thoroughly  washed,  first  in  borax 
water  for  thirty  minutes  and  then  in  clear  water  for  another 
half  hour.  When  a  two-bath  or  acid  process  has  been  used 
in  tanning  the  sides  require  a  more  thorough  washing  than 
when  a  one-bath  process  has  been  used.  After  the  washing 
in  borax  water — one  pound  of  borax  used  for  every  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  leather — the  sides  should  be  washed  for  one 
hour  in  clear  water,  in  order  to  remove  all  traces  of  acid  which, 
when  it  is  left  in  the  leather  produces  undesirable  efi'ects. 

When  the  washing  is  completed  the  sides  should  be 
struck  out  by  hand  or  on  a  machine,  or  they  may  be 
pressed,  and  the  surplus  water  removed  from  them.  In 
order  that  the  leather  may  be  of  uniform  substance  and 
smooth  and  clean  upon  the  flesh,  it  may  require  a  shaving ; 
but  whether  sides  require  shaving  or  not  depends  upon 
their  condition  and  must  be  decided  accordingly. 

It  is  an  advantage  to  the  leather  at  this  point  to  give  it 
a  treatment  with  Palmetto  extract.  This  has  very  good 
effects  upon  the  stock,  not  only  helping  to  make  firm, 
close-grained  leather  but  also  serving  as  a  mordant  for  the 
dye  and  increasing  the  depth  of  the  black.  For  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  chrome  leather  about  one  pint  of  the  extract 
may  be  used,  dissolved  and  mixed  with  ten  gallons  of  water 
at  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees,  and  the  leather  milled 
in  the  solution  for  twenty  minutes. 

The  directions  for  flesh  coloring,  fat-liquoring  and  grain 
blacking,  drying  out  and  finishing  given  as  applied  to  calf- 
skins, work  equally  well  when  applied  to  side  leather.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  repeat  the  descriptions  of  the  processes  here. 
The  formula  given  for  a  fat-liquor  to  use  upon  heavy  calfskins 
produces  good  results  upon  side  leather.  To  color  chrome 
sides  fancy  shades,  the  directions  as  given  for  calfskins  may 
be  followed,  by  changing  the  quantities  of  dye-stuffs  used. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


THE  COLORING,  FAT-LIQUORING  AND  FINISHING  OF 
HEMLOCK,  GAMBIER,  PALMETTO,  QUEBRACHO 
AND  COMBINATION-TANNKD  SIDES  INTO  SHOE 
LEATHER. 

For  the  sake  of  convenience  and  in  order  to  avoid 
repetitions,  the  above  named  classes  of  leather  will  be 
treated  together,  inasmuch  as  the  methods  of  coloring  and 
"finishing  described  produce  equally  satisfactory  results  on 
€ach  and  all  of  the  various  tannages. 

-  When  the  tanning,  or  the  retanning,  is  completed,  the 
sides  may  be  washed  to  remove  surplus  liquor  and  then 
pressed  for  the  same  reason.  Some  tanners  merely  press 
the  leather  and  do  not  wash  it.  After  the  pressing,  the 
sides  may  be  shaved  if  they  require  it  and  made  of  per- 
fectly uniform  substance.  Then  they  are  fat-liquored.  In 
some  cases  the  leather  is  first  drummed  in  oil  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  :  A  pin-mill  drum  is  heated  to  a  temperature 
of  about  100  degrees  with  steam,  and  one  gallon  of  oil  used 
for  eacfi  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  leather,  weighed 
after  being  drained  and  pressed.  The  leather  is  run  in  the 
oil  for  forty  minutes,  or  until  the  oil  is  fully  absorbed. 
Next  the  stock  is  taken  from  the  drum  and  hung  up  and 
dried  out.  After  drying  the  leather  should  be  weighed  and 
then  moistened  with  warm  water  and  then  piled  up  for  a 
number  of  hours  to  soften.  Then  it  is  put  into  the  drum 
and  run  with  just  enough  water  to  soften  all  parts  alike, 
when  it  is  ready  for  fat-liquoring.  This  is  the  method  em- 
ployed by  some  tanners,  while  others  fat-liquor  their 
leather,  immediately  after  it  has  been  drained  and  pressed. 
As  a  fat-liquor  any  one  of  the  following  formulas  produces 
good  results : 

(387) 


sss 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Fat-liquor  formulas. 

1.  Five  pounds  of  potash  soft  soap,  and  one  gallon  of 
Moellon  degras,  boiled  and  made  into  an  emulsion  with 
one-half  barrel  of  water  and  steam.  This  amount  of  fat- 
liquor  is  sufficient  for  four  hundred  pounds  of  leather. 

2.  Twenty-five  pounds  of  potash  soft  soap  are  boiled  and 
stirred  until  thoroughly  dissolved  in  twenty-five  gallofis  of 
water.  Then  about  fifty  pounds  of  English  sod  oil  and  one 
and  one-half  gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  are  poured  into  the 
soap  solution  and  thoroughly  mixed  together.  A  few 
pounds  of  degras  may  also  be  added.  Enough  cold  water 
is  next  added  to  make  a  total  of  fifty  gallons  of  fat-liquor. 
Twenty  gallons  of  this  fat-liquor  are  required  by  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  dry  leather.  The  quantity  to  be  used^ 
however,  depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  tannage.  A 
smaller  quantity  will,  in  some  instances,  produce  the  de- 
sired softness,  some  tannages  requiring  less  fat-liquor  than 
others. 

3.  Ten  pounds  of  soap  boiled  in  fifteen  gallons  of  water, 
until  dissolved.  To  the  soap  solution  are  added  four  gal- 
lons of  neatsfoot  oil,  and  ten  pounds  of  degras,  and  the  in- 
gredients are  thoroughly  mixed  together.  Enough  water 
is  then  run  in  to  make  fifty  gallons  of  fat-liquor. 

4.  Twenty  pounds  potash  soap  and  forty  pounds  English 
sod  oil,  boiled  and  saponified.  About  twelve  gallons  of 
this  fat-liquor  may  be  used  for  every  hundred  pounds 
of  leather. 

The  pin-mill  drum  should  be  heated  with  live  steam  ta 
a  temperature  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees.  If  the 
leather  has  been  dried  out  it  should  be  uniformly  moistened 
with  warm  water  before  it  is  fat-liquored.  This,  of  course,, 
is  not  necessary  when  the  leather  is  fat-liquored  before  it 
has  been  dried  out.  Any  excess  of  moisture  should  be 
guarded  against  both  in  the  drum  and  in  the  leather,  for  it 
retards  the  proper  absorption  of  the  fat-liquor.  The  fat- 
liquor  should  be  added  to  the  leather  in  portions  of  one  or 


COLORING  AND  FINISHING  INTO  SHOE  LEATHER.  oS9 

two  gallons  at  a  time  through  the  hollow  gudgeon  of  the 
■drum,  and  after  all  the  fat-liquor  is  in,  the  leather  should 
be  drummed  for  forty  minutes,  or  until  all  the  fat-liquor 
has  been  absorbed.  Upon  being  taken  from  the  drum  the 
leather  should  be  washed  in  clear  water,  lukewarm,  to  free 
it  from  particles  of  leather  fibres  which  occasionally  spot 
the  leather,  and  then  left  to  drain  well  before  it  is  dried 
out,  thus  letting  the  grease  penetrate  through  every  fibre. 
Then  the  leather  is  dried  out. 

Coloring  the  flesh  of  side  leathers. 

In  most  instances  the  leather  is  fat-liquored  twice,  the 
second  application  of  fat-liquor  being  given  after  the 
leather  has  been  colored.  When  the  leather  is  dried  out, 
after  the  first  fat-liquoring,  it  is  moistened  and  sammied, 
and  then  colored  blue  or  purple  or  yellow  upon  the  flesh  as 
may  be  desired.  The  flesh  coloring  for  yellow  back  may 
be  done  in  the  following  manner  :  The  leather  is  moistened 
uniformly  with  warm  water,  and  placed  in  a  pile  for 
twenty-four  hours  to  become  soft.  Then  one-half  pail  of 
sumac  is  scalded  for  two  hours  in  a  closed  vessel.  To  the 
prepared  sumac  are  added  four  pails  of  water  and  one 
gallon  of  Lactracine.  This  quantity  of  liquor  suffices  for 
sixty  medium  sides.  It  is  used  at  a  temperature  of  100° 
Fah.,  and  the  leather  drummed  therein  for  twenty-five 
minutes,  when  it  is  ready  for  the  yellow  dye.  Various 
materials  may  be  used  to  color  the  flesh  yellow,  Yellow  S 
being  a  satisfactory  article.  One  pound  of  the  same  is  dis- 
solved in  half  barrel  of  water  and  applied  to  the  leather  at 
a  temperature  of  100  degrees.  Then  the  leather  may  be 
dyed  black  upon  the  grain,  oiled  off"  and  dried  out.  Blue 
backs  are  more  popular  at  the  present  time  than  yellow 
backs.  To  obtain  a  deep  blue  color  upon  the  flesh  with 
nigrosine,  eight  ounces  of  the  same  are  used  for  each  dozen 
sides.  The  dye  is  boiled  until  it  is  dissolved,  and  the 
leather  drummed  therein  for  twenty  minutes.    Then  the 


390 


PKACTICAL  TANNING. 


leather  is  grain  blacked  and  dried  out.  A  flesh  coloring 
may  also  be  prepared  of  logwood  liquor,  nigrosine  black 
and  methyl  violet  aniline.  Logwood  and  sal-soda  or  borax 
also  make  a  good  liquor  for  the  purpose. 

The  methods  of  dyeing  the  grain  black  are  fully 
described  in  the  chapter  on  chrome  upper  leather.  The 
formulas  and  directions  given  work  equally  well  on  vege- 
table tanned  leathers.  After  dyeing  the  grain  is  washed 
ofl",  the  leather  struck  out,  a  light  coat  of  oil  applied  evenly 
over  the  grain  and  the  leather  dried  out.  After  drying  it 
may  be  finished  in  any  way  desired. 

The  following  are  also  practical  formulas  for  the  maJcing  of - 
fat-liquors 

Suitable  to  side  leathers.  Ten  pounds  of  degras,  two 
gallons  of  sod  oil,  two  gallons  cod  oil,  three  pails  soft  soap, 
two  pounds  of  borax  and  three  pails  of  water  for  each  forty- 
five  sides  of  leather.  Also  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of 
dry  leather  may  be  used,  five  pounds  French  degras,  three 
pounds  cod  oil,  three  pounds  neatsfoot  oil,  and  two  pounds 
paraffine  oil.  After  fat-liquoring,  the  sides  should  be  dried 
in  a  warm  room  and  are  then  ready  for  coloring  and  finish- 
ing. If  the  leather  is  intended  for  dull  or  kangaroo  finish 
it  should  be  blacked  before  being  set  out ;  if  a  bright  glazed 
finish  is  to  be  applied  the  leather  should  be  set  out  and 
dried  before  it  is  blacked.  The  setting  out  should  be  very 
thorough  and  hard. 

Effects  of  different  oils  and  greases  on  leathers. 
Difi^erent  effects  are  produced  upon  leather  by  the  various 
oils  and  greases  used  in  stuffing  or  fat-liquoring.  Animal 
and  fish  oils  have  been  used  for  a  great  many  years,  and 
they  impart  a  full,  mellow  feel  to  the  leather,  as  well  as 
giving  it  strength  and  softness.  Neatsfoot  is  the  animal 
oil  generally  used,  while  of  fish  oils  cod  or  sperm  are 
largely  employed.  Another  class  of  oils  used  upon  leather 
are  mineral  oils.    These  make  the  leather  soft  and  pliable^ 


COLORING  AND   FINISHING  INTO  SHOE  LEATHER.  391 

but  they  are  soon  evaporated  leaving  the  leather  harsh  and 
brittle.  It  is  well  known  that  the  durability  and  texture 
of  leather  are  largely  determined  by  the  class  of  oil  or 
grease  used  upon  it.  Some  oils  make  the  leather  soft  so 
long  as  it  is  new,  but  the  softness  is  not  permanent,  and  as 
the  leather  ages  it  becomes  dry  and  harsh.  Animal  and 
fish  oils  are  liable  to  become  rancid  in  the  leather,  thus 
causing  the  fibres  to  rot  and  destroying  the  strength  of  the 
leather.  Sometimes  the  leather  acquires  a  disagreeable 
odor  from  such  oils ;  and  white  grease  spots  and  scum  fre- 
quently appear  upon  the  surface  of  the  leather  caused  by 
the  chemical  changes  taking  place  in  the  stock. 

The  best  oils  to  use  are  the  good  grades  of  animal  and 
fish  oils.  The  best  quality  only  should  be  used,  and  al- 
though they  do  not  penetrate  so  readily  as  mineral  oils, 
they  nourish  the  leather  better,  and  by  becoming  thor- 
oughly incorporated  with  the  fibres  give  lasting  strength 
and  softness  to  the  leather. 

Chrome  leather  retains  its  softness  as  long  as  it  lasts,  not 
only  because  it  is  chrome  tanned  but  because  the  oils  and 
soaps  used  in  lubricating  it  become  thoroughly  incorporated 
with  it  and  because  a  good  quality  of  these  materials  is 
generally  used.  Leather  should  be  greased  only  with  those 
greases  that  adhere  strongly  to  the  fibres.  Glycerine  im- 
parts no  great  softness  to  leather.  Its  chief  use  is  to  give 
to  the  grain  a  smooth,  soft  feel,  which  helps  in  the  final 
finishing. 

FAT-LIQUORING  WITH  MULSINE. 

Mulsine  is  a  compound  for  making  fat-liquor.  It  needs 
to  be  mixed  only  with  water  when  it  is  ready  for  use  at 
once  without  the  addition  of  soap,  alkali  or  any  other  ma- 
terial. By  its  use  the  tanner  is  saved  the  trouble  of  buying 
soaps  and  oils,  which  do  not  always  run  uniform  and  of 
mixing  the  same.  It  contains  no  sticky  or  resinous  matter, 
and  is  so  compounded  that  no  free  oils  or  alkalies  are  car- 


392 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


ried  into  the  leather,  thus  insuring  freedom  from  sticky  or 
oily  grain,  and  spew  upon  the  finished  stock,  provided  no 
mineral  acids  remain  in  the  leather  after  it  is  tanned. 
These  results  are  not  always  obtained  when  saponified  fats 
are  used.  The  fats  used  in  making  many  of  the  fat-liquors 
in  common  use  by  the  ordinary  process  of  saponification 
with  soap,  potash  and  soda  are  converted  into  soap  in  the 
leather  by  the  excess  of  alkali,  and  this  is  detrimental  to 
the  fibre,  and  owing  to  the  fact  that  this  soap  works  out 
readily,  the  leather  ultimately  becomes  dry  and  hard. 

Mulsine  is  antiseptic  in  its  nature  and  will  not  deterioriate 
whether  in  solution  or  in  the  leather  itself,  while  ordinary 
fat-liquors  turn  sour  when  allowed  to  stand  in  warm  weather 
before  using,  thus  proving  the  detrioriation  of  the  ingredi- 
ents. Mulsine  remains  sweet  at  all  times.  It  is  thoroughly 
blended  and  aged,  and  therefore  much  more  efficient  than 
fat-liquor  stock  prepared  immediately  before  using.  Mul- 
sine leaves  no  stain  or  oil  spots  and  permits  the  leather  to 
.bleach  uniformly.  The  finished  stock  is  bright  in  color, 
and  the  grain  is  soft,  strong  and  fine.  Mulsine  is  very  use- 
ful in  making  patent  and  enamelled  leather,  making  the 
same  soft  and  full,  yet  firm  and  well  nourished,  thereby 
permitting  it  to  be  successfully  buffed.  The  leather  will 
enamel  readily  and  the  enamel  will  hold,  and  after  baking 
will  not  show  blisters  or  grease  spots.  In  preparing  a  fat- 
liquor  with  Mulsine  the  material  is  dissolved  in  boiling 
water  in  the  proportion  of  one  gallon  of  the  same  to  three 
gallons  of  water  boiling  hot,  then  cold  water  is  added  until 
the  mixture  is  in  the  proportion  of  one  gallon  of  Mulsine  to 
four  gallons.  In  other  words  when  ready  to  use  the  fat- 
liquor  should  always  be  composed  of  one  gallon  of  Mulsine 
and  four  gallons  of  water.  The  proportions  should  always 
be  determined  by  actual  measure.  Seven  and  one-half 
pounds  can  be  called  one  gallon,  if  measure  is  made  by 
weight. 

After  the  leather  has  been  split,  retanned,  pressed  and 


COLORING   AND  FINISHING  INTO  SHOE  LEATHER.  oDS 

shaved  it  should  be  uniformly  sammied  and  then  weighed 
to  ascertain  amount  of  fat-liquor  to  be  used.  The  pin- 
wheel  should  be  heated  to  125  deg.  F.,  and  the  leather  put 
in  with  a  small  amount  of  water  also  heated  to  3  25  degrees 
F.,  and  milled  until  the  moisture  is  evenly  distributed  and 
the  leather  pulled.  The  fat-liquor  will  then  be  rapidly  and 
•evenly  absorbed.  An  excess  of  moisture  should  be  guarded 
against,  either  in  the  mill  or  in  the  leather  itself,  for  it  will 
prevent  the  proper  absorption  of  the  fat-liquor. 

The  fat-liquor  prepared  as  suggested  should  be  used  at  a 
temperature  of  125  deg.,  Fahr.  The  pin-wheel  should  be 
heated  to  the  same  temperature  before  the  fat-liquor  is  put 
into  it.  The  fat-liquor  should  be  added  through  the  gud- 
geon of  the  drum  while  the  same  is  in  motion.  A  running 
for  thirty  minutes  will  enable  the  leather  to  absorb  all  the 
fatty  matter  in  the  liquor,  provided  no  mineral  acids  are 
left  in  the  leather  after  tanning,  and  the  fat-liquor  and 
leather  have  been  prepared  and  used  according  to  these 
instructions. 

Upon  hemlock  and  other  vegetable  tanned  stock,  and 
upon  combination  tanned  side,  kip  and  calf  leather,  imita- 
tion kangaroo,  and  upon  dull  and  glazed  boarded  grains, 
for  the  first  application  of  the  fat-liquor  thirteen  gallons 
^re  used  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock.  For  Russia 
leathers  eleven  gallons  of  fat-liquor  are  used  for  each  one 
hundred  pounds  of  stock. 

After  the  leather  has  received  the  first  application  of  fat- 
liquor  it  should  be  rinsed  off  in  clean  warm  water  at 
100°  F.,  to  free  it  from  particles  of  leather  fibre  and  flesh- 
ings, which  containing  oil  would  spot  the  leather  while  it 
was  drying.  Before  the  stock  is  hung  up  to  dry  it  should 
loe  placed  on  a  horse  for  about  four  hours,  which  will  allow 
it  to  drain  and  the  fatty  matter  to  assimilate  with  the 
tannin  in  the  leather  and  penetrate  while  warm  into  the 
stock.  This  will  avoid  chilling  the  oils  on  the  surface, 
which  would  occur  without  these  precautions.    After  the 


394 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


stock  has  been  dried  it  should  be  weighed  again  to  de- 
termine the  amount  of  fat-liquor  to  be  used  in  the  second 
application,  and  then  put  into  a  tub  with  water  at  a  tem- 
perature of  110  degrees  until  thoroughly  soft.  Then  it 
should  be  placed  in  a  pile  for  twelve  to  fifteen  hours  to 
sammie.  The  quantity  of  fat-liquor  used  in  the  second 
application  should  be  ten  gallons  for  each  one  hundred 
pounds  of  stock,  for  imitation  kangaroo  and  dull  printed 
grains.  These  leathers  are  generally  yellow-backed  before 
the  second  application  of  fat-liquor. 

For  blue-back,  glazed  and  boarded  black  grains  seven 
and  one-half  gallons  of  fat-liquor  should  be  used  for  each 
hundred  pounds  of  leather.  These  leathers  are  usually^ 
blue-blacked  before  the  second  application  of  fat-liquor,, 
and  are  blacked  upon  the  grain  afterwards. 

For  Russia  leather  four  gallons  of  fat-liquor  should  be 
used  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock.  Black  Russia 
is  usually  blue-backed,  and  colored  Russia  leather  is  usually 
bleached,  mordanted  and  colored  before  the  second  applica- 
tion of  fat-liquor.  Upon  russett,  bag  and  strap  leather  ten 
gallons  of  fat-liquor  are  used  upon  each  one  hundred! 
pounds  of  stock.  Patent,  enamelled,  and  tipping  leather 
are  given  fourteen  gallons  of  fat-liquor  for  each  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  stock. 

Fat-liquoring  chrome  leather  with  mulsine. 

When  it  is  intended  to  be  used  upon  chrome  leather,  the 
fat-liquor  should  consist  of  one  gallon  of  Mulsine  in  seven 
gallons  of  water.  It  should  be  at  a  temperature  of  125 
degrees  when  used.  For  all  shoe  leathers  excepting  sheep- 
skins eight  gallons  of  fat-liquor  are  used  for  each  hun- 
dred pounds  of  stock,  weighed  directly  after  being  shaved. 
For  sheepskin  shoe  leather  two  gallons  of  fat-liquor  are 
used  upon  each  hundred  pounds  of  leather ;  for  sheep- 
skin glove  leather  one  gallon  upon  each  dozen  skins,, 
averaging  twenty  pounds  per  dozen  before  being  tanned.. 


COLORING  AND  FINISHING  INTO  SHOE  LEATHER.  395 

For  calfskins,  tips  and  sides  for  glove  leather  ten  gallons  of 
fat-liquor  are  used  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock, 
tanning  weight. 

CHROME-TANNED  SIDE  GLOVE  LEATHER. 

For  either  glove  or  shoe  leather,  the  sides  should  be  well 
limed  and  bated  thoroughly  so  as  to  get  the  desired  softness 
and  pliability.  After  coming  from  the  bating  process, 
and  having  been  washed  off  in  warm  water,  the  sides 
should  be  pickled  in  a  solution  of  salt,  sulphuric  acid  and 
water.  About  two  and  one-half  quarts  of  acid  and  fifty 
pounds  of  salt  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  the  stock  will 
pickle  fifty  sides  of  medium  size.  In  this  pickle  the  sides 
should  be  stirred  about  for  some  eight  or  ten  hours,  and 
then  allowed  to  drain  well  before  they  are  tanned.  The 
sides  after  pickling  and  draining  should  be  weighed  ;  and 
for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  sides  a  solution  is  pre- 
pared in  the  following  manner :  Three  pounds  of  sulphate 
of  alumina  are  dissolved  by  boiling  in  five  gallons  of 
water.  Also  in  another  vessel  are  dissolved  by  boiling 
in  five  gallons  of  water,  three  pounds  of  sal-soda.  The 
solution  of  sal-soda  is  poured  slowly  and  with  constant 
stirring  into  the  sulphate  of  alumina  solution.  The  two 
solutions  combined  form  a  milky  white  liquor,  which 
should  not  be  used  until  it  has  become  cool,  or  enough 
water  should  be  added  to  it  to  reduce  the  temperature  to 
about  eighty-five  degrees. 

The  pickled  sides  are  thrown  into  a  pin-mill  drum  with 
a  solution  of  salt,  ten  pounds  of  salt  dissolved  in  five 
gallons  of  water  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  pickled 
stock.  In  this  solution  the  sides  are  milled  for  about 
fifteen  minutes,  or  until  they  are  thoroughly  wet  through 
and  opened  out.  Then  the  solution  of  alumina  and  sal- 
soda  is  added,  preferably  a  portion  at  a  time  until  it  is  all 
in,  after  which  the  drumming  should  be  continued  for  one 
hour.    Then  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock  in  the 


S9G 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


drum,  one  gallon  of  one-bath  tanning  liquor  (Tanolin)  is 
added,  and  at  the  end  of  one-half  hour  another  gallon,  and 
at  the  end  of  one  hour  another  gallon  is  added,  making  in 
all  three  gallons  of  tanning  liquor  for  each  one  hundred 
l)Ounds  of  sides  in  the  drum. 

The  drumming  in  the  tanning  liquor  usually  consumes 
about  four  hours,  although  this  depends  upon  the  thickness 
of  the  stock.  After  the  sides  are  well  struck  with  the  tan- 
ning liquor,  in  about  one  gallon  of  water  should  be  dis- 
solved one  pound  Salts  of  Tartar  for  each  one  hundred 
pounds  of  leather.  This  is  added  to  the  contents  of  the 
drum  and  the  drumming  continued  for  one-half  hour,  at 
the  end  of  which  time  the  sides  will  be  found  to  be  tanned. 
If  any  doubt  exists  as  to  the  stock  being  thoroughly  tanned, 
it  may  be  run  in  the  drum  an  hour  or  two  longer,  and  the 
leather  may  be  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  over  night. 
Then  the  leather  may  be  removed  from  the  drum,  and  left 
in  piles  to  press  and  drain  for  about  twenty -four  hours. 
After  pressing  and  draining  this  length  of  time  the  leather 
requires  to  be  thoroughly  washed.  This  is  done  by  drum- 
ming it  in  a  solution  of  borax,  using  two  pounds  of  borax 
mixed  in  solution  with  sufficient  water,  for  about  thirty  min- 
utes, and  then  it  is  washed  in  a  washing  drum  so  arranged 
that  the  water  may  run  on  and  off  the  leather  continuously. 
The  washing  process  should  consume  about  one  hour,  and 
the  leather  should  be  perfectly  neutral  to  the  taste.  It  is 
then  ready  for  striking  out  or  pressing,  coloring,  fat-liquor- 
ing and  finishing. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

HORSEHIDES  AND  C0LT8KINS. 

The  methods  used  in  working  horsehides  and  coltskins 
through  the  processes  of  the  beam  house  are  not  materially 
different  from  those  employed  upon  other  classes  of  hides 
and  skins.  Horsehides  and  coltskins  are  soaked,  softened, 
unhaired,  limed,  bated  and  washed  in  the  usual  manner. 
Nevertheless  a  few  suggestions  especially  applicable  to  this 
class  of  stock  will  not  be  out  of  place  here.  Green  salted 
hides  and  skins  require  but  a  short  soaking  in  warm 
weather,  provided  the  water  is  fresh  and  clean  and  the 
stock  is  not  excessively  salty  or  dirty.  A  soaking  for 
eighteen  to  twenty-four  hours  is  usually  sufficient,  although 
no  great  harm  comes  to  stock  when  it  is  soaked  longer. 
Time  is  money  to  the  tanner,  and  hence  it  behooves  him  to 
work  his  stock  through  as  rapidly  as  possible.  Dry  colt- 
skins, such  as  come  from  Russia,  require  a  thorough  soften- 
ing. To  hasten  the  softening  sulphide  of  sodium  may  be 
added  to  the  water  in  which  the  skins  are  soaked,  or  salt 
water  may  be  used  instead  of  the  sulphide  soak.  When 
sulphide  of  sodium  is  used,  about  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  is 
sufficient  for  each  skin.  The  material  should  be  dissolved 
and  added  to  the  w^ater  before  the  skins  are  put  in.  The 
results  of  its  use  are  that  the  skins  become  thoroughly  soft, 
and  freshened  up  in  grain  and  fibre  in  a  much  shorter  time 
than  when  it  is  not  used.  Another  good  way  to  soften  the 
dry  skins  is  by  the  use  of  common  salt.  The  quantity  of 
salt  required  is  not  fixed.  More  or  less  may  be  used,  but 
only  enough  to  give  the  water  a  salty  taste,  and  the  water 
should  be  clean  and  fresh  at  the  start.  After  the  skins 
have  become  soft  in  the  brine,  they  should  be  washed  or 

(397) 


398 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


soaked  in  clean  water  before  being  passed  into  the  unhair- 
ing  process.  By  the  use  of  either  of  these  methods  soft 
clean  skins  are  obtained  in  a  comparatively  short  time. 
Old  stale  soaks  are  often  used  by  tanners,  but  their  use 
cannot  be  recommended.  Much  brighter,  clearer  grained 
and  softer  skins  are  obtained  when  clean  fresh  soaks  are 
used. 

In  using  sulphide  of  sodium  upon  horsehides  for  the 
purpose  of  removing  the  hair,  a  good  way  to  use  it* is  to 
paint  the  hides  with  two  liquors  of  different  strengths. 
Upon  the  fore  part  a  liquor  of  twenty  degrees  Baume  may 
be  used,  and  a  twenty-four  degree  liquor  on  the  shell.  By 
using  the  sulphide  of  sodium  in  this  way  the  shell  is  soft- 
ened and  the  time  of  liming  is  shortened.  A  mixture  of 
lime  and  sulphide  of  sodium  may  be  used,  or  a  sul- 
phide liquor  alone.  In  a  few  hours  the  hair  will  be 
loosened,  but  it  is  best  not  to  remove  it  until  the  next  day, 
as  by  that  time  it  will  come  off  cleaner  and  more  readily. 
A  further  liming  for  from  four  to  six  days  in  weak  clean 
limes  is  all  that  is  required  for  stock  treated  in  this  way  for 
shoe  leather,  while  for  glove  and  mitten  material  a  longer 
liming  is  usually  required  in  order  to  get  the  stock  suffi- 
ciently soft  and  elastic.  Sulphide  of  sodium  may  also  be 
mixed  with  the  lime  in  vats  and  the  stock  treated  in  the 
manner  that  has  already  been  described  under  other  head- 
ings. Red  arsenic  may  be  also  used  in  the  same  manner 
as  upon  calfskins,  and  the  grain  made  soft  and  fine  by  its 
use.  For  glove  leather  a  longer  time  is  allowed  in  the 
limes  than  for  shoe  leather. 

The  use  of  lactic  acid 

While  there  are  various  methods  of  bating  and  drench- 
ing liides  and  skins  in  common  use,  no  article  is  better  than 
lactic  acid  for  the  purpose  of  removing  the  lime  and  pre- 
paring the  skins  for  tanning.  Upon  horsehides  and  colt- 
skins,  for  both  glove  and  shoe  leather,  it  is  used  in  the  fol- 


HORSEHIDES  AND  C0LT8KINS. 


399 


lowing  manner  :  For  every  one  hundred  gallons  of  warm 
water  in  the  paddle-wheel  use  one  gallon  of  lactic  acid. 
Sometimes  three  quarts  will  do  the  work.  After  the  stock 
comes  from  the  liming  process  and  has  been  fleshed,  it 
should  be  washed  in  warm  water,  and  then  drenched  in  the 
acid  liquor  prepared  as  above.  The  time  consumed  by  the 
process  varies  from  one  to  three  hours.  The  temperature 
of  the  drench  should  be  about  ninety  degrees.  The  lime 
can  be  thoroughly  neutralized  in  one  bath,  and  when  the 
hides  or  skins  are  taken  out  they  may  be  worked  on  the 
beam  or  slated,  and  then  rinsed  off  in  warm  water  and 
pickled  or  tanned.  For  some  purposes,  and  for  some  pro- 
cesses of  tanning  it  is  necessary  to  pickle  the  stock  in  a 
liquor  composed  of  salt,  sulphuric  acid  and  water,  as  will 
be  explained  later  on.  For  alum  tawed  leather,  also  some 
processes  of  chrome  tanning,  pickling  is  not  necessary. 
However  for  the  alum  process  the  hides  or  skins  are  consid- 
erably bleached  and  whitened  by  the  pickling  process  but 
the  acid  should  be  removed  from  the  stock  before  it  is 
tawed. 

Whip  and  baseball  cover  leatliev 
Whip  leather,  and  leather  for  baseball  covers  and  similar 
j)urposes  may  be  made  by  the  following  processes  :  After 
the  stock  has  been  bated  or  drenched  and  is  ready  for  tan- 
ning, it  is  treated  to  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and 
salt,  made  up  of  three  pounds  of  the  former  and  eight 
pounds  of  the  latter  dissolved  in  five  gallons  of  water  for 
each  one  hundred  pounds  of  skins.  If  the  stock  has  been 
pickled  to  preserve  and  bleach  it,  the  acid  pickle  should  be 
removed  by  a  drench  in  sour  bran  and  salt.  The  stock  is 
drummed  in  the  sulphate  of  alumina  and  salt  solution  for 
thirty  minutes.  Then  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  stock 
ten  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  are  dissolved  in  five 
gallons  of  water  and  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum.  In 
this  liquor  the  stock  is  drummed  for  another  thirty  min- 
■utes,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  tawing  will  be  made 


400 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


permanent.  This  would  complete  the  process  were  it  not 
that  the  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  makes  the  stock 
thin.  To  overcome  this,  another  solution  of  sulphate  of 
alumina  and  salt  is  added  to  the  contents  of  the  drum. 
This  may  consist  of  two  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and 
six  pounds  of  salt  for  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock. 
A  further  drumming  in  the  combined  liquors  for  thirty 
minutes  completes  the  process,  which  results  in  well-tawed, 
leather  of  smooth  fine  grain,  tough  and  to  a  great  extent 
insoluble.  Leather  made  in  this  way  resembles  chrome 
leather  and  may  be  finished  in  the  same  manner  as  chrome 
leather,  or  by  any  method  usually  employed  on  alum 
leather. 

Tough  leather  of  light  color 

Very  tough  leather  of  a  light  color  is  made  by  combin- 
ing an  alum  and  a  chrome  process.  In  the  beginning  the 
stock  is  drummed  for  thirty  minutes  in  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina  and  salt,  composed  of  three  pounds  of  the 
former  and  eight  pounds  of  the  latter,  dissolved  in  eight  or 
ten  gallons  of  water.  At  the  end  of  thirty  minutes  the 
chrome  liquor  is  added  to  the  stock.  Usually  three  gallons 
of  liquor  are  required  by  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock. 
This  should  be  divided  into  three  portions  and  mixed  with 
an  equal  volume  of  water.  The  portions  of  one-third  each 
are  given  to  the  skins  at  intervals  of  one-half  hour,  and  the 
leather  drummed  in  the  combined  alum  and  chrome  liquor 
for  three  hours  or  until  it  is  thoroughly  tanned,  after  which 
it  should  lie  in  the  liquor  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  be 
thoroughl}^  washed  for  at  least  thirty  minutes,  fat-liquored 
and  dried  out  without  coloring.  The  leather  dries  out 
nearly  white.  Good  leather  can  also  be  made  by  taking 
the  stock  from  the  drum,  after  the  drumming  in  alumina, 
and  salt  and  drying  it  out.  After  drying  it  may  be  moist- 
ened back  and  given  the  chrome  liquor.  In  this  process 
the  benefit  of  the  alumina  treatment  is  obtained  as  w^ell  as. 


HORSEHIDES  AND  COLTSKINS. 


401 


the  chrome,  and  the  leather  possesses  the  good  qualities  of 
both  classes  of  leather. 

Very  soft  and  tough  leather  may  he  made  by  the  use  of  a  form 
of  the  old  calf -kid  process. 

In  this  method  the  stock  is  treated  to  a  solution  of  three 
pounds  of  sulphate  of  alumina,  eight  pounds  of  salt,  five 
pounds  of  flour,  five  quarts  of  egg-yolk  and  three  quarts  of 
neatsfoot  oil  for  each  one  hundred  pounds  of  stock.  The 
skins  and  the  liquor  should  be  warm  when  put  into  the 
drum,  and  the  stock  should  be  milled  in  the  solution  for 
at  least  one  hour,  after  which  it  may  lie  for  a  day  or  two  in 
a  cold  alum  solution,  and  then  be  dried  out  in  a  warm  room. 
The  leather  is  then  dampened  and  staked  by  hand  or 
machine.  For  first-class  leather  the  stock  may  be  laid 
away  for  several  weeks  after  the  tawing  is  completed  in 
order  that  it  may  retain  all  the  tawing  materials,  and  re- 
sult in  soft  plump  leather. 

Horsehide  shoe  leather. 

For  shoe  leather  from  horsehides  and  coltskins  the  gam- 
bier  tannage  is  well  adapted.  Quebracho  is  also  used,  also 
Palmetto  extract  and  the  stock  is  also  tanned  in  combina- 
tions of  two  or  more  tannages. 

Russia  coltskins  may  be  tanned  in  the  same  manner  as 
calfskins  intended  for  Russia  calf,  either  black  or  colored. 
For  this  gambier  is  used,  either  alone  or  in  conjunction 
with  alum  and  salt,  forming  a  kind  of  dongola  process. 
When  the  tanning  is  done  in  one  liquor  the  action  of  the 
paddles  keeps  the  skins  in  motion  and  thus  secures  an  even 
tannage.  The  alum  and  salt  may  be  used  with  the  gam- 
bier or  the  process  may  be  used  as  a  two-bath  process,  the 
skins  being  first  given  the  alum  and  salt,  and  then  the 
gambier.  The  following  instructions  regarding  the  use  of 
Palmetto  extract  may  be  of  interest.  After  the  hides  or 
skins  are  ready  for  tanning  they  should  be  kept  in  a  cold 
26 


402 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


palmetto  liquor  of  a  strength  of  four  degrees  barkometer, 
until  well  colored  in  the  paddle-wheel.  Then  they  are  run 
in  the  paddle-wheel  for  one  and  one-half  hours  and  then 
the  leather  is  put  into  drums  with  the  extract  at  thirty  de- 
grees, heated  to  a  temperature  of  seventy  or  eighty  degrees, 
and  in  six  hours  the  leather  is  tanned.  Upon  coming  from 
the  tanning  liquor  the  leather  should  be  washed  in  luke- 
warm water.  It  will  be  found  to  be  soft  and  smooth 
grained  and  with  firm  well-filled  flanks.  The  water  in 
which  the  leather  is  washed  contains  much  coloring  matter 
and  may  be  used  as  a  coloring  liquor  in  the  paddle-wheel. 
Good  leather  is  also  made  by  a  combination  of  a  chrome  and 
vegetable  process.  When  this  is  done  the  hides  or  skins 
are  started  in  a  chrome  process  and  then  finished  up  in 
gambler  or  some  similar  tannage.  When  a  one-bath 
chrome  process  is  used  the  stock  is  drummed  or  paddled 
until  it  is  well  struck  with  the  tanning  liquor,  then  it  is 
washed  and  placed  in  the  vegetable  liquor.  This  is  a  good 
method  to  use  in  tanning  Russia  coltskins. 

When  the  tannage  is  completed  the  stock  is  removed 
from  the  liquor  and  pressed  to  remove  surplus  liquor,  and 
then  left  in  piles  for  a  number  of  hours.  To  get  the  desired 
softness  and  pliability  the  following  fat-liquor  produces 
good  results.  Twenty-five  pounds  of  potash  soap  are  boiled 
until  thoroughly  dissolved.  Then  about  fifty  pounds  of 
English  sod  oil  and  one  and  one-half  gallons  of  neatsfoot 
oil  are  poured  into  the  soap  solution  and  the  two  ingredi- 
ents are  completely  mixed  together.  Enough  water  is  next 
added  to  make  fifty  gallons  of  fat-liquor.  Before  this  fat- 
liquor  is  used  the  leather  should  be  drummed  in  oil,  about 
one  gallon  of  oil  being  used  upon  every  hundred  pounds  of 
leather  weighed  after  pressing.  After  drumming  in  the  oil 
the  leather  is  hung  up  and  dried  out,  and  then  moistened 
down  for  fat-liquoring.  The  moistening  of  the  leather 
must  be  uniform  so  that  it  will  be  evenly  moist  and  soft. 
A  suitable  pin-mill  drum  should  be  heated  to  about  one 


HORSEHIDES  AND  COLTSKINS. 


403 


hundred  and  twenty  degrees,  the  leather  thrown  in  and 
run  a  few  minutes  until  it  is  warmed  up.  Then  the  fat- 
liquor  is  added  and  the  leather  drummed  for  at  least  thirty 
minutes  in  the  fat-liquor  until  the  grease  is  all  taken  up, 
then  the  leather  should  be  hung  up  and  dried  again. 

For  do'iigola,  combination,  and  gambler  tanned  Russia  coltshms 
and  horsehide  leather  for  shoe  purposes  the  flesh  may 
be  colored  yellow  in  the  following  manner : 
The  leather,  dried  after  fat-liquoring  is  moistened  with  warm 
water  and  left  in  piles  until  it  is  uniformly  soft  and  moist. 
One-half  pail  of  sumac  is  scalded  for  two  hours  in  a  closed 
vessel.  To  this  are  added  four  pails  of  water  and  one  gal- 
lon of  Lactracine.  This  quantity  of  liquor  is  sufficient  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  colt-skins.  The  liquor  is  used  at  a 
temperature  of  one  hundred  degrees,  and  the  leather 
■drummed  in  the  liquor  for  thirty  minutes.  Then  the 
leather  should  be  thrown  back  upon  the  sides  of  the  drum 
and  the  color  solution  added.  This  may  consist  of  one 
pound  of  Yellow  S,  dissolved  and  boiled  in  one-half  barrel 
of  water.  Three  pailfuls  of  this  liquor  are  required  by 
^ach  one  hundred  pounds  of  dry  leather.  A  drumming 
for  ten  minutes  is  sufficient  to  allow  the  leather  to  absorb 
the  dye,  after  which  the  grain  is  blacked,  oiled  and  the 
stock  dried  out. 

When  a  blue  flesh  is  wanted 
The  leather  is  drummed  in  a  solution  of  logwood,  blue 
aniline  and  sal-soda  for  twenty  minutes,  then  removed  from 
the  drum  and  the  grain  blacked  by  hand  or  machine. 
After  grain  blacking,  the  leather  is  well  struck  out,  oiled 
lightly  and  dried  out.  Then  it  is  moistened  back,  staked, 
•dried  and  staked  again,  and  is  then  ready  for  the  final 
finish  which  may  be  either  dull  or  bright.  For  the  dull 
finish  the  leather  is  seasoned  with  a  dull  finish,  and  while 
in  the  moist  condition  it  is  ironed.  For  a  bright  glazed 
iinish  season  the  leather  with  the  following  solution  :  One- 


404 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


half  pint  blue  stone,  one-eighth  ounce  iron,  one-half  pint 
logwood,  one  pint  blood,  one-half  pint  nigrosine.  This 
glazing  liquor  is  applied  evenly  to  the  grain  of  the  leather 
and  well  rubbed  in,  after  which  it  is  dried  and  glazed. 
Two  or  three  coats  of  the  seasoning  are  generally  required. 

A  seasoning  liquor  for  a  glazed  finish  may  also  be  made 
of  these  ingredients  :  Five  gallons  of  logwood  are  blacked 
with  five  ounces  of  copperas.  Or  in  place  of  such  a  liquor 
a  solution  of  black  nigrosine  may  be  used.  Then  add  one 
and  one-half  pints  of  blood,  five  ounces  of  glycerine  and 
eight  ounces  of  ammonia.  After  the  first  coat  of  seasoning 
has  been  applied,  the  leather  dried  and  glazed,  a  liquor 
composed  of  lactic  acid,  water  and  bichromate  of  potash,, 
may  be  applied  and  well  rubbed  in.  This  removes  grease 
and  helps  to  deepen  the  black.  In  place  of  lactic  acid  and 
bichromate  of  potash,  a  dilute  solution  of  vinegar  and  bi- 
chromate of  potash  may  be  used.  Mix  one  gallon  strong 
vinegar,  one  ounce  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  five  gal- 
lons of  w^ater.  Apply  between  the  first  and  second  glazing 
to  clear  the  grain  and  deepen  the  color. 

Horsehides  intended  for  glove  leather 
Should  be  thoroughly  limed,  and  bated  low  at  the  begin- 
ning in  order  to  get  the  desired  softness  in  the  stock.  Soft 
tough  leather  w^hich  does  not  tear  readily,  and  which  re- 
sembles oil  tanned  stock  is  made  by  applying  the  Napa 
tannage  of  oil  and  soap  to  horsehides.  The  hides  may  be 
pickled  before  tanning,  as  this  bleaches  them.  Upon  com- 
ing from  the  beam-house,  the  hides  are  immersed  in  a  solu- 
tion composed  of  the  following  ingredients,  for  each  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  stock  :  Ten  pounds  of  salt,  fifteen  pounds  of 
potash  in  one  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  w^^ter.  The 
skins  remain  in  this  liquor  in  a  vat  for  three  hours,  or  they 
may  be  drummed  in  a  drum  for  something  less  than  one 
hour,  after  which  they  are  wrung  out  dry  and  treated  to  a 
solution  of  oil  and  soap — six  pounds  of  hard  soap,  and  two 


HORSEHIDES  AND  COLTSKINS. 


405 


gallons  of  neatsfoot  oil  in  one  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of 
water.  The  stock  should  be  left  in  this  solution,  which 
should  be  thoroughly  emulsified  before  it  is  used,  until  it  is 
wet  through,  and  then  hung  up  and  dried  out.  The  pro- 
cess may  be  repeated  two  or  three  times  until  the  leather  is 
sufficiently  soft  and  well  tawed.  A  washing  in  warm 
water  is  necessary  after  the  last  drying  out  to  remove  sur- 
plus of  tawing  materials,  after  which  the  leather  may  be 
smoked,  colored,  or  dried  out  white  and  worked  until  it  is 
soft  enough  for  use. 

Another  process. 

A  process  slightly  difi'erent  from  the  above  consists  of  a 
first  liquor  of  two  pounds  of  caustic  soda,  and  one  pound 
of  borax  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  the  hides.  This  solu- 
tion and  the  stock  are  placed  in  the  drum  and  milled  for 
thirty  minutes  to  one  hour.  The  hides  are  then  removed 
from  the  drum,  hung  up  and  dried  out.  They  are  next 
immersed  or  drummed  in  a  solution  composed  of  five 
pounds  of  hard  soap,  one  gallon  of  straits  or  neatsfoot  oil, 
and  one-half  pound  caustic  soda.  This  liquor  should  thor- 
oughly impregnate  the  stock  before  it  is  dried  out ;  and  after 
drying  the  process  may  be  repeated  as  often  as  is  considered 
necessary.  After  the  stock  has  been  treated  in  this  manner 
and  become  leather  it  may  be  put  into  a  very  weak  solution 
of  soap,  oil  and  caustic  soda  thoroughly  mixed  with  water, 
in  order  to  soften  it,  and  in  this  moist  condition  it  may  be 
smoked,  colored  or  left  without  coloring  or  smoking  and 
dried  out  white. 

When  the  hides  are  not  treated  with  acid,  the  full  strength 
of  the  fibres  is  retained  and  the  leather  is  consequently 
very  tough  and  strong,  and  free  from  any  tendency  to  crack 
or  break. 

Another  process  for  glove  and  mitten  leather. 

Glove  and  mitten  leather  may  also  be  made  from  a  solu- 
tion or  tanning  mixture  made  up  ot  seven  pounds  of  alum 


406 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


or  of  sulphate  of  alumina,  three  pounds  of  glauber  salt^ 
four  pounds  of  rock  salt,  ten  gallons  of  water,  eight  pounds 
of  ground  sumac,  one  pound  of  ground  nutgalls,  and  four 
ounces  of  sulphuric  acid.  In  preparing  the  mixture,  the 
alum,  salt  and  glauber  salt  are  reduced  to  a  powder  and 
boiled  in  the  water  until  they  are  all  dissolved.  The  sumac 
and  nutgalls  are  also  boiled  briskly  for  thirty  minutes,  and 
then  strained  over  the  other  liquor  and  mixed  with  it,  and 
the  sulphuric  acid  is  next  added.  The  liquor  is  used  at 
blood  heat,  and  the  stock  treated  therein  for  a  period  of 
twenty-four  to  thirty-six  hours,  being  stirred  about  for  one 
hour,  and  then  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  time,  with  occasional  stirring.  The  process 
can  also  be  applied  in  drums,  the  stock  being  drummed  for 
two  hours  and  then  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  for  a  num- 
ber of  hours.  Upon  coming  from  the  liquor  the  leather 
should  be  given  a  thorough  striking  out  with  a  glass  slicker. 
This  is  followed  by  a  moderately  heavy  coat  of  lard  or 
neatsfoot  oil  applied  to  both  sides,  then  the  stock  is  hung  in 
a  warm  room  and  dried  out,  which  completes  the  process. 
The  leather  is,  to  quite  a  degree,  impervious  to  moisture.^ 
Before  the  oil  is  applied,  it  should  be  warmed,  and  the 
water  should  be  well  struck  out  of  the  skins.  The  leather 
should  be  worked  as  it  dries  and  the  drying  and  working 
continued  until  the  stock  is  thoroughly  dry  and  soft. 

Horsehides  may  be  made  into  excellent  glove  mate- 
rial by  the  use  of  chrome  methods  of  tanning.  The  one- 
bath  method  is  very  simple  to  use  and  results  in  making 
leather  in  every  way  as  good  as  two-bath  tanned  stock. 
After  bating  or  drenching,  the  hides  may  be  pickled  in  a 
solution  of  salt,  sulphuric  acid  and  water,  two  and  one-half 
quarts  of  acid,  and  fifty  pounds  of  salt,  making  a  liquor  of 
sufficient  strength  when  mixed  with  one  hundred  gallons 
of  water,  to  pickle  two  to  three  hundred  pounds  of  stock. 
The  pickling  process  consumes  about  six  hours,  and  at  the 
end  of  this  time  the  stock  may  be  removed  from  the  liquor 


HORSEHIDES   AND  COLTSKINS. 


407 


and  well  drained  before  it  is  tanned.  For  each  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  stock,  weighed  after  draining,  prepare  a 
solution  of  one  pound  of  glauber  salt  in  eight  gallons  of 
warm  water  (85  degrees).  Throw  this  solution  into  the 
drum  with  the  pickled  stock  and  mill  the  same  for  fifteen 
minutes.  The  stock  is  next  thrown  up  on  each  side  of  the 
drum,  the  plug  pulled  out  and  the  glauber  salt  solution 
drained  off.  Then  replace  the  plug  and  throw  into  the 
drum  ten  pounds  of  common  salt,  and  eight  gallons  of 
water  for  each  hundred  pounds  of  stock  and  mill  for  five 
minutes.  Then  add  to  the  contents  of  the  drum,  one  gal- 
lon of  the  tanning  liquor  (Tanolin)  for  each  hundred  pounds 
of  stock  and  mill  for  one-half  hour,  then  add  another  gal- 
lon tanning  liquor  and  mill  for  one  hour,  and  finally  add 
another  gallon  of  the  tanning  liquor  for  each  hundred 
pounds  of  stock  and  continue  the  drumming  for  two  or 
three  hours,  or  until  the  stock  is  well  struck  with  the  tan- 
ning material,  making  three  gallons  of  tanning  liquor  used 
for  each  hundred  pounds  of  leather.  Dissolve  in  a  little 
water  one-half  pound  bicarbonate  of  soda  for  each  hundred 
pounds  of  stock,  add  to  the  contents  of  the  drum  and  run 
the  drum  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  If  the  liquor  in 
the  drum  still  shows  a  deep  green  color  add  another  one- 
half  pound  of  soda  and  continue  the  drumming  for  one- 
half  hour  longer.  The  tanning  should  now  be  completed, 
but  if  any  doubt  exists  the  stock  may  be  drummed  for  a 
longer  time,  or  it  may  be  allowed  to  rest  in  the  liquor  over 
night.  When  thoroughly  tanned  the  skins  may  be  re- 
moved and  allowed  to  press  and  drain  for  twenty-four  hours. 
After  pressing  and  draining  the  required  length  of  time 
the  leather  is  thrown  into  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  borax 
or  bicarbonate  of  soda,  using  two  pounds  of  borax  for  each 
hundred  pounds  of  leather  and  milled  in  this  solution  for 
one-half  hour.  On  removing  the  leather  from  the  borax 
water  it  should  be  washed  in  clear  water.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  wash  it  for  a  great  length  of  time  as  is  required 


408 


PRACTICAL  TANNINGS. 


when  sulphate  of  alumina,  alum  or  hyposulphite  has  been 
used  in  tanning.  The  leather,  after  washing  is  ready  for 
shaving,  coloring  and  fat-liquoring. 

The  leather  can  also  be  made  by  treating  the  stock  as  it 
comes  from  the  bating  and  drenching  and  without  pickling 
it,  treating  it  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alumina  and 
salt,  using  three  pounds  of  the  former  and  eight  pounds  of 
the  latter  in  six  gallons  of  warm  water  for  every  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  leather.  After  drumming  the  stock  in  this 
solution  there  should  be  added  at  intervals  of  one-half  hour, 
and  in  quantities  of  one  gallon  at  a  time,  three  gallons  of 
concentrated  one-bath  liquor.  After  the  liquor  is  all  in, 
the  leather  should  be  drummed  for  three  hours,  at  the  end 
of  which  time  it  will  be  completely  tanned.  It  should  then 
be  washed  for  at  least  thirty  minutes  and  will  then  be  ready 
for  coloring  and  finishing. 

Leather  tanned  in  either  of  these  ways  may  be  readily 
colored  any  shade.  The  quality  of  the  material  is  some- 
what improved  by  slightly  retanning  it  with  either  sumac 
or  palmetto  extract.  This  also  prepares  it  for  coloring,  and 
makes  the  grain  tough  and  fine  and  yet  soft.  The  same 
fat-liquors  may  be  used  upon  glove  leather  as  upon  shoe 
material,  more  being  usually  given  to  the  former  than  to 
the  latter,  in  order  to  make  it  soft.  A  coat  of  oil  applied 
to  the  grain  before  the  leather  is  dried  out,  toughens  it, 
makes  it  soft,  and  gives  it  a  smooth  silky  feel.  Neatsfoot 
oil  is  generally  used. 

HorseJ rides  tanned  in  oil. 

Horsehides  tanned  in  oil  make  exceedingly  soft  and  dur- 
able leather,  very  useful  in  making  gloves  and  mittens. 
When  they  are  intended  for  any  process  of  oil  tanning  they 
should  be  very  thoroughly  limed  and  bated  and  made  per- 
fectly clean  and  neutral.  One  method  of  oil  tanning  may 
be  carried  out  in  the  following  manner :  After  bating  and 
washing,  the  hides  should  be  pressed  or  slightly  dried  so  as 


HORSEHIDES  AND  COLTSKINS. 


409 


to  remove  all  excess  of  water  and  still  leave  them  moist. 
They  may  then  be  given  a  thorough  beating  by  means  of 
-an  apparatus  or  machinery  especially  designed  for  the  pur- 
pose in  order  to  soften  them,  after  which  they  are  sprinkled 
with  cod  oil  and  are  again  beaten  in  order  to  force  the  oil 
into  the  leather.  The  highest  grade  of  Newfoundland  cod  oil 
is  considered  the  best  for  the  purpose.  The  process  of  oiling 
and  beating  the  leather  is  repeated  two  or  three  times  or 
until  the  hides  have  assumed  a  mustard  color,  and  have 
lost  their  original  odor.  After  the  oiling  and  beating  are 
■completed  the  leather  is  made  to  undergo  a  process  of  heat- 
ing. By  this  process  the  oxidation  of  the  oil  which  was 
t)egun  during  the  previous  process  is  completed  by  the  fer- 
mentation that  takes  place.  The  heat  is  generated  sponta- 
neously and  the  piles  of  leather  must  be  closely  watched 
and  frequently  handled  and  turned  over.  The  highest  tem- 
perature allowable  is  140°  Fah.,  a  higher  temperature  than 
this  seriously  damages  the  leather.  All  organic  matter  is 
destroyed  by  the  heat.  Unless  sufficient  heat  is  generated 
to  kill  the  organic  matter  the  hides  will  rot,  and  when  there 
is  too  much  heat  present  they  become  dissolved. 

When  the  fermentation  ceases  and  the  leather  is  no  longer 
susceptible  of  heating  it  is  treated  in  a  manner  calculated 
to  remove  any  excess  of  oil.  This  is  done  by  washing  it  in 
hot  water  and  then  subjecting  it  to  great  pressure  by  means 
of  a  hydraulic  press.  A  great  deal  of  grease  is  squeezed 
out  in  this  way.  The  oil  may  also  be  removed  by  washing 
the  leather  in  a  solution  of  soda  ash  which  causes  the  grease 
to  saponify.  The  saponified  oil  removed  by  pressure  is 
neutralized  with  sulphuric  acid  and  becomes  the  oil  known 
as  sod  oil.  A  certain  proportion  of  the  oil  must  of  course 
be  left  in  the  leather  so  as  to  give  it  softness.  The  finishing 
process  consists  of  drying  out  the  skins,  and  working  the 
leather  soft  and  smooth. 


410 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


Oil  tanning  with  Turkey-red  oil. 

In  some  instances  the  leather  is  hung  up  in  a  warm 
closed  room,  instead  of  being  placed  in  piles  to  ferment. 
A  species  of  oil  tanned  leather  may  be  made  by  treating 
the  prepared  hides  or  sides  to  a  solution  of  the  soluble 
Turkey-red  oils  or  alizarine  oils,  either  in  a  drum  or  a  vat. 
When  vats  or  tubs  are  used  the  sides  are  pressed  after  bat- 
ing and  washing  and  soaked  in  a  twenty-five  per  cent,  more 
or  less  solution  of  the  oil,  used  at  a  temperature  of  90 
degrees.  The  oil  can  also  be  applied  in  a  drum.  After  the 
treatment  with  oil,  the  hides  are  dried  and  placed  in  a  heap 
for  some  time  in  a  moderately  warm  room  and  covered  up.. 
They  are  then  dried  slowly  in  the  open  air,  after  which 
they  are  lightly  washed  and  again  treated  with  the  oil  in 
the  same  manner  as  at  first.  They  are  then  placed  in 
piles  and  allowed  to  heat,  then  dried  out  again  and  then 
washed  in  a  weak  solution  of  borax  or  other  alkali.  By 
drying  and  working  the  leather  is  made  very  soft  and 
elastic.  The  results  may  be  changed  by  greater  or  less  con- 
centration of  the  oil  solution,  by  higher  temperatures  in 
drying,  and  by  a  greater  number  of  applications  of  the  oil. 
The  leather  may  also  be  made  by  a  combination  of  the  oil 
with  the  salts  of  alumina.  The  preferred  method  of  doing 
this  is  to  soak  the  prepared  sides  in  a  solution  containing 
preferably  fifteen  per  cent,  of  the  soluble  oil,  and  then  dry- 
ing them  out.  This  operation  may  be  repeated,  and  then 
the  ordinary  method  of  tanning  with  alumina  salts  pro- 
ceeded with  in  the  usual  way. 

In  any  process  of  alum  tanning  in  which  egg  yolk  is 
used,  Turkey-red  oil  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  egg  yolk 
with  very  beneficial  results. 

The  removal  of  the  grain,  or  the  frizzing  of  the  same  is 
usually  done  on  machines,  after  the  liming  piocess  is  com- 
pleted. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


HARNESS,  LINE,  STRAP,  BELT,  BAG,  CASE,  LACE  ANI> 
RUSSET  LEATHERS. 

In  this  chapter  a  few  suggestions  will  be  given,  which^ 
although  they  are  applicable  to  almost  any  kind  of  leather, 
have  a  direct  bearing  upon  the  classes  of  stock  mentioned 
above. 

The  methods  of  preparing  hides  for  tanning,  the  processe& 
of  tanning,  and  the  methods  of  finishing  the  tanned  leather, 
vary  with  every  manufacturer.  In  a  general  way,  however, 
the  following  method  of  preparing  hides  is  a  practical  one 
and  produces  good  results  :  The  hides  are  soaked  for  at 
least  two  days,  and  three  days  soaking  is  sometimes  re- 
quired, the  water  being  changed  at  least  twice  during  the 
process.  After  fleshing  and  splitting  the  hides  into  sides, 
they  are  passed  into  the  liming  process.  The  lime  is 
strengthened  up  with  sulphide  of  sodium.  For  three 
thousand  pounds  of  raw  hide  two  hundred  pounds  of  lime 
and  twenty  pounds  of  sulphide  of  sodium  make  a  good  fresh 
lime.  For  strengthening  up  this  lime,  seventy-five  pounds 
of  lime  and  ten  pounds  of  sulphide  of  sodium  may  be  used. 
In  about  five  days  the  sides  are  ready  for  unhairing,  and 
then  fine-haired.  The  hides  are  then  bated  and  washed 
and  are  ready  for  tanning. 

Quebracho  and  hemlock. 
For  a  safe,  efficient  and  clean  bate  lactic  acid  is  recom- 
mended. It  readily  dissolves  the  lime  in  the  hides  without 
injury  to  the  color  or  quality  of  the  leather,  and  b}^  open- 
ing the  pores  of  the  hides  makes  them  receptive  to  the  tan- 
ning liquors.  It  is  also  very  useful  as  a  plumping  agent. 
In  the  making  of  the  classes  of  leather  mentioned  above 

(411) 


412 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


no  better  process  can  be  used  than  a  combination  of  que- 
bracho and  hemlock  extracts.  The  hides,  when  they  are 
ready  for  tanning  are  subjected  to  a  liquor  made  up  of 
about  two-thirds  quebracho  and  one-third  hemlock.  This 
combination  can  be  used  for  tanning  leather  of  almost  any 
description.  The  time  of  tanning  is  reduced  greatly,  from 
the  time  required  when  bark  liquors  and  lay-aways  are 
used.  The  color  of  the  leather  is  very  fair  and  uniform, 
and  no  bleaching  is  required.  The  leather  is  well  filled 
and  yet  soft  and  mellow.  Quebracho  extract  liquors  have 
some  peculiar  qualities,  one  of  which  is  that  they  never 
turn  sour,  but  always  remain  sweet.  Leather  made  with 
quebracho  alone  is  very  pliable  and  tough  rather  than  hard 
and  firm.  Hemlock  supplements  quebracho  with  excellent 
results.  The  color  of  quebracho  tanned  leather  is  an  oak 
shade,  inclining  towards  pink.  The  leather  should  never 
be  dried  in  the  sun,  as  this  causes  the  color  to  become  red. 

Quebracho  may  be  used  in  combination  with  almost  any 
tannage.  A  pure  quebracho  liquor,  however,  lacks  in 
plumping  and  filling  qualities,  and  for  this  reason  it  is 
advantageous  to  first  plump  the  hides  before  tanning  them. 
The  hides  must  be  free  from  all  lime  before  they  are  tanned 
in  quebracho,  since  quebracho  owing  to  its  sweetness  does 
not  act  upon  the  lime  as  bark  liquors  do,  and  this  causes 
bad  grain  and  color. 

hi  testing  the  liquors  for  tanning  strength, 

The  barkometer  underrates  the  strength  as  compared  with 
ordinary  bark  liquors.  A  pure  quebracho  liquor  made  up 
of  nothing  but  quebracho  extract  and  water  of  20°  barko- 
meter, is  fully  as  strong  as  a  sweet  bark  liquor  of  30° 
barkometer.  This  is  because  quebracho  contains  much  less 
material  that  forces  up  a  barkometer  than  does  bark,  and 
this  fact  and  the  variations  must  be  taken  into  consider- 
ation or  else  a  tanner  will  get  the  liquor  too  strong  and 
burn  the  fibres  of  the  leather. 


HARNESS,  LACE  AND  RUSSET  LEATHERS. 


413 


Leather  tanned  with  hemlock  liquors 
Is  of  a  harsh  nature,  and  does  not  carry  black  well.  To 
tone  down  the  harshness  of  the  leather  and  to  give  it  a 
softer,  mellower  feel,  nothing  is  better  than  gambier.  After 
splitting,  the  sides  are  milled  in  gambier  in  the  following 
manner :  Two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  gambier  are 
boiled  in  eighty  gallons  of  water  until  dissolved.  After 
skimming  or  straining,  the  liquor  is  ready  for  use.  Ten 
gallons  of  the  gambier  liquor  are  put  into  a  drum  with 
thirty  sides  of  average  size,  and  two  gallons  of  dry  sumac 
are  added,  and  sufficient  water  to  make  the  leather  wet 
without  dripping.  A  milling  in  the  liquor  for  thirty  min- 
utes completes  the  process  ;  and  better  results  are  obtained 
in  this  way  than  if  the  hides  are  immersed  for  several  days 
in  a  pit  containing  a  strong  liquor.  Oak  extract  will  an- 
swer the  same  purpose,  and  also  palmetto  extract.  Hem- 
lock tanned  leather  treated  with  either  gambier,  oak  or 
palmetto  extract  as  above  suggested  never  grows  rusty  with 
age.  The  scouring,  stuffing  and  finishing  are  then  carried 
out  in  the  usual  way. 

Palmetto  tanned  leather 
Is  soft,  tough,  well  filled  and  of  good  color.  The  tanning 
of  hides  with  palmetto  extract  may  be  carried  out  in  the 
following  manner  :  The  tanning  is  begun  in  liquor  12^ 
barkometer ;  the  sides  being  nailed  on  sticks  and  suspended 
therein  for  about  six  days,  during  w^hich  time  the  strength 
is  increased  to  20*^  barkometer.  The  leather  is  then  taken 
off  the  sticks  and  put  into  palmetto  liquor  30°  Baume. 
In  about  six  days  with  occasional  handling  the  leather  is 
tanned  through.  The  leather  is  then  pressed,  shaved  and 
split,  after  which  it  is  put  into  weak  palmetto  liquor  12°, 
and  then  wheeled  for  a  number  of  hours  in  30°  Be.  liquor 
until  thoroughly  tanned.  The  leather  is  now^  w^ashed  in 
lukew^arm  water  and  pressed,  and  fat-liquored.  A  good 
fat-liquor  is  made  of  five  pounds  of  soap,  and  one  gallon 


414 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  one  pint  of  Ma41on  degras,  boiled  together  and  used 
at  a  temperature  of  120  degrees.  The  quantities  of  soap 
and  degras  mentioned  are  enough  for  four  hundred  and 
forty  pounds  of  leather.  After  fat-liquoring  the  leather  is 
-dried  out,  and  then  sorted  according  to  the  kind  of  finish 
to  be  applied.  Harness  and  belt  leather  are  stuffed  after 
they  are  dried  from  fat-liquor  with  stearine  at  a  temperature 
of  140°  F. 

Palmetto  extract  is  useful  as  a  retannage  upon  almost  any 
kind  of  tanned  leather,  bringing  it  into  condition  to  stand 
iieat  better,  to  carry  more  grease  and  thus  become  more 
waterproof  and  tougher. 

LACE  leathp:r 

Leather  remarkable  for  its  great  softness  and  strength 
and  therefore  useful  as  lace  leather  is  made  in  the  following 
manner  :  The  hides  are  soaked,  limed  and  unhaired  in  the 
usual  manner,  sulphide  of  sodium  being  mixed  with  the 
lime.  After  liming  and  unhairing  the  hides  are  bated  and 
washed  in  the  same  manner  as  for  other  soft,  pliable 
leathers.  The  tanning  may  be  commenced  in*  an  old 
weak  bark,  oak  or  gambier  liquor,  the  hides  being  left 
in  it  only  long  enough  to  become  uniformly  colored.  The 
toughness  of  the  leather  is  somewhat  increased  by  supple- 
menting a  gambier  tanning  with  alum  and  salt,  coloring 
the  hides  well  with  gambier  and  then  giving  them  the 
alum  and  salt.  Upon  coming  from  the  tanning  liquors  the 
leather  is  dried.  It  may  also  be  further  tanned  wdth  oil 
and  grease  without  being  dried.  Different  processes  of 
greasing  the  leather  are  used.  A  good  stuffing  mixture  may 
consist  of  oil,  flour,  grease  and  salt.  These  are  drummed 
into  the  leather  by  means  of  a  pin  mill  drum,  after 
which  the  leather  is  hung  up  and  dried  out.  Degras  com- 
bined with  oils  and  fats  imparts  great  softness  to  the  stock. 
After  the  leather  becomes  dried  out  the  grain  may  be  buffed 
off.  It  may  also  be  removed  before  the  hides  are  tanned. 
Setting  out  and  working  the  leather  complete  the  process. 


HARNESS,  LACE  AND  RUSSET  LEATHERS. 


415 


Hides  intended  for  lace  leather 

May  also  be  tanned  by  the  following  composition  :  For 
every  one-hundred  pounds  of  hides — water,  fifty  gallons ; 
alum,  ten  pounds  ;  sal-soda,  tw^o  and  one-half  pounds  ;  com- 
mon salt,  three  pounds  ;  bran,  from  two  to  three  pounds. 
These  ingredients  are  made  into  a  liquor,  and  the  hides 
treated  with  the  same,  either  in  a  vat  or  a  drum  ;  after 
which  they  are  dried  out.  They  are  then  split  upon  the 
splitting  machine,  and  a  mixture  of  lard  oil  and  tallow 
applied,  after  which  they  are  again  dried  out.  The  hides 
^re  then  moistened  and  shaved,  and  the  entire  grain  is 
removed  in  order  to  prevent  cracking  or  breaking.  A 
mixture  of  lard  oil,  one  and  one-half  pounds ;  tallow,  one- 
half  pound  ;  flour,  two  ounces  for  every  ten  pounds  of  hide, 
is  then  applied  and  well  rubbed  in  ;  the  leather  dried 
again,  and  then  worked  and  stretched. 

Another  tanning  composition  for  lace  and  whip  leather 

Consists  of  tw^enty-five  gallons  of  warm  water ;  two  pounds 
of  alum  ;  ten  pounds  of  salt ;  one  pound  of  sulphuric  acid  ; 
two  pounds  of  bran,  and  two  ounces  of  dissolved  sulphur. 
The  hides  are  left  in  this  solution  for  thirty  minutes,  and 
then  one  ounce  of  vitriol,  four  pounds  of  salt,  two  ounces  of 
alum,  are  dissolved  and  mixed  into  the  liquor.  In  this 
combined  liquor  the  hides  are  tanned,  and  are  then  hung 
up  and  dried  out.  For  lacing  leather  the  hides  are  given  a 
mixture  of  one  pound  of  fish  oil  ;  one  pound  of  tallow  ;  four 
ounces  of  linseed  oil  and  two  ounces  of  soda  soap  dissolved 
in  a  gallon  of  hot  water.  The  hides  are  then  dried  again 
-and  worked  soft. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 
METHODS  OF  DECREASING  LEATHER. 

In  the  coloring  and  finishing  of  some  kinds  of  leather^ 
notably  sheepskins  and  some  kinds  of  goatskins,  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  is  encountered  by  the  dyer  and  finisher  in 
their  efforts  to  get  clear  and  uniform  colors  and  a  clear  bright 
finish,  owing  to  the  grease  in  the  leather.  Sheepskins  and 
some  kinds  of  goatskins  are  naturally  full  of  fat  and  grease. 
This  is  somewhat  difficult  to  get  rid  of.  In  some  instances, 
too,  the  leather,  although  not  naturally  greasy,  is  so  over 
treated  with  oil  or  fat-liquor,  as  to  make  proper  coloring 
and  finishing  almost  impossible. 

In  removing  the  natural  grease  from  skins,  hydraulic 
presses  are  used.  The  skins  are  pressed  immediately  after 
liming,  by  being  placed  between  the  plates  of  a  press  and 
sprinkled  with  sawdust  to  prevent  them  from  slipping. 
The  pressure  applied  in  this  way  is  very  great  and  large 
quantities  of  grease  flow  from  the  skins.  While  this 
method  is  good  it  is  not  always  as  effectual  as  might  be 
desired.  The  skins  are  also  treated  with  naphtha,  both  in 
liquid  and  gas  form.  Other  methods  are  sometimes  used, 
but  they  not  only  remove  the  grease  but  injure  the  life  of 
the  skins  as  well. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  after  leather  is  dried  out  and 
finished,  the  oil  and  grease  in  it,  ferment  and  spew  out 
upon  the  surface  in  the  form  of  white  grease  spots,  that  not 
only  destroy  the  appearance  of  the  leather  but  injure  the 
finish  by  dulling  it,  as  well.  Also  when  impure  or  low 
grade  oils  are  used  in  giving  to  the  leather  suppleness  and 

(416) 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


417 


strength  quantities  of  gummy  or  resinous  matter  are  de- 
posited in  the  skins  and  these  also  have  an 'unpleasant  effect 
upon  the  quality  of  the  leather.  Leather  must  be  free  from 
uncombined  oil  and  grease  and  dry  upon  the  grain  before 
satisfactory  finishing  can  be  obtained.  Treating  greasy 
leather  with  lactic  acid  before  it  is  colored  by  drumming 
the  leather  in  the  acid  in  weak  solution,  and  also  by  apply- 
ing a  dilute  solution  of  lactic  acid  to  the  grain  before  the 
seasoning  is  applied  is  an  effectual  way  of  improving  the 
clearness  and  brightness  of  the  finish.  Then  there  is  a 
method  of  treating  leather  with  naptha  by  which  every 
particle  of  unconverted  oil  or  fat  is  removed.  This  method 
is  applied  to  the  skins  after  they  have  been  dried  out  and 
before  they  are  finished.  The  method  of  procedure  is  to 
immerse  the  skins  in  a  bath  of  pure  refined  naphtha,  pre- 
ferably the  ordinary  commercial  naphtha  of  about  70° 
Baum^,  or  other  equivalent  volatile  hydro-carbon  oil  in  a 
tank  or  close  vessel,  or  drum,  which  either  revolves  or  in 
which  the  skins  are  rapidly  stirred  or  otherwise  agitated,  so 
as  to  insure  rapid  and  thorough  permeation  of  the  naphtha. 
By  processing  the  greasy  leather  in  the  naphtha,  the  latter 
becomes  so  fully  saturated  with  the  greasy  and  oily  matter 
extracted  from  the  skins  that  it  will  take  up  no  more.  To 
accomplish  further  removal  of  the  grease  the  skins  are  re- 
moved to  a  second  clean  bath  of  pure  naphtha  and  drenched 
therein  as  in  the  first  case.  The  skins  are  subjected  to  a 
fresh  supply  of  naphtha  again  and  again,  until  the  naphtha 
in  which  the  skins  are  last  placed  remains  pure,  and  so  far 
unaffected  thereby  as  not  to  show  upon  proper  test  the  least 
trace  of  oil  or  grease. 

When  an  impure  or  low  grade  oil  has  been  used  upon 
the  skins,  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  purify  them  and  re- 
move from  them  the  gummy  or  resinous  matters  that  have 
resisted  the  action  of  the  naphtha.  In  such  cases  a  drench- 
ing with  alcohol,  wood-spirit,  ammonia  or  other  solvents 
is  required.  After  this  treatment  the  leather  is  dried  out 
27 


418 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


and  finished  in  the  usual  way,  and  when  it  is  glazed  it  is 
unusually  bright  and  clear,  and  the  fibres  are  remarkably 
tough,  soft  and  strong. 

A  PATENTED  PROCESS  OP  COLORING. 

Ordinarily  skins  are  not  subjected  to  dyeing  agents  until 
they  are  tanned.  A  method,  of  which  the  following  is  a 
description,  has  been  invented  by  W.  F.  Sykes,  of  New 
York  City,  by  which  skins  are  colored  in  the  untanned 
condition  and  subsequently  tanned  by  a  chrome  process. 
The  coloring  matters  used  in  this  process  are  sulphur 
derivatives,  or  compounds,  such  as  the  coloring  matter 
derived  by  treating  dioxybenzones,  paradiamines  or  amido- 
phenols  with  sulphur  and  caustic  soda,  or  those  obtained 
by  treating  quinone,  hydroquinone,  toluquinone,  or  pyro- 
catechin  with  sulphur  and  ammonia.  The  group  also  em- 
braces the  analogous  bodies  known  generically  as  "  cachon 
de  Laval,"  derived  by  treating  certain  organic  substances 
with  sulphur,  caustic  soda,  and  an  organic  acid,  and  em- 
braces other  sulphuretted  coloring  matters. 

According  to  the  ordinary  procedure, 

As  for  instance  to  produce  a  logwood  black,  the  skin  after 
being  tanned  according  to  one  of  the  commercial  and  well- 
known  acid  or  mineral  tanning  processes  is  submitted  to 
several  operations,  which  require  the  skin  to  be  handled 
several  times,  before  it  is  colored  and  dried  out.  These 
processes  are  well-known  to  those  who  are  familiar  with  the 
making  of  chrome  leather. 

One  of  the  known  processes  of  acid  or  mineral  tanning 
consists,  essentially,  in  immersing  the  skins  in  chromic 
acid,  and  afterward  reducing  the  chromic  acid  absorbed  by 
the  skins  to  chromic  oxide,  this  being  effected  by  the  sul- 
phurous acid  gas  generated  in  a  second  bath  composed  of 
sulphite,  bisulphite  or  thiosulphite  of  soda  or  potash  with  a 
mineral  acid  as  a  decomposing  agent.    The  chromic  acid 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


may,  however,  be  reduced  and  rendered  insoluble  in  other 
ways,  or  the  skins  may  be  caused  to  take  up  a  chromic  salt 
direct,  as  in  one-bath  mineral  tanning.  It  will  suffice, 
however,  to  describe  this  invention  in  connection  with  the 
first  of  the  mineral  tanning  processes  referred  to,  which  is 
well-known  and  widely  practiced,  and  from  this  description 
it  will  be  evident  to  persons  skilled  in  the  art  of  tanning 
that  the  process  can  be  applied  in  connection  with  other 
chrome  or  mineral  processes. 

The  skins  are  tested  in  the  usual  way,  up  to  and  includ- 
ing the  process  of  slating.  After  this  operation  the  skins 
are  immersed  in  a  bath  of  the  desired  one  of  the  specified 
group  of  coloring  matters  or  combinations  thereof.  The 
strength  of  this  solution  will  depend  on  the  shade  desired, 
and  on  the  volume  of  the  dye  bath,  and  other  consider- 
ations as  well  understood  by  practical  dyers.  If,  for  ex- 
ample, the  coloring  matter  be  that  known  as  Vidal  black," 
and  if  a  full  black  color  be  desired,  a  two  per  cent,  solution 
or  thereabout,  would  be  proper.  These  coloring  matters 
produce  all  shades  from  a  light  gray,  drab  or  slate  color,  to 
a  deep  black.  After  washing,  the  next  step  consists  in  the 
immersion  of  the  skins  in  a  chromic  bath  which  fixes  the 
color.  Specifically  this  bath  may  be  composed  of  chromic 
acid  or  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  a  mineral  acid,  or  any 
one  of  the  known  baths  in  mineral  tanning.  The  strength 
of  this  bath,  and  the  period  of  immersion  will  be  such  as 
ordinarily  employed  in  tanning  the  skins.  If  a  chromic- 
acid  bath  has  been  employed,  the  next  step  will  be  the 
usual  treatment  in  a  reducing  bath,  such  as  sulphite,  bisul- 
phite or  hyposulphite  of  soda,  and  an  acid,  whereby  the 
chromic  compound  is  rendered  insoluble,  and  the  tannage 
of  the  skins  completed.  The  finishing  operations  are 
carried  on  in  the  manner  commonly  practiced.  By  this 
invention,  the  inventor  claims  to  eff^ect  a  saving  in  time, 
labor  and  materials,  as  well  as  of  space.  It  is  also  claimed 
that  dyeing  with  the  group  of  colors  specified  previous  to 


420 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


tanning  brings  the  skins  into  a  better  condition  for  the 
latter  operation,  than  when  the  skins  are  subjected  to  the 
chromic  bath  immediately  after  slating ;  faster  colors  are 
produced  than  by  ordinary  methods ;  the  colors  are  not 
affected  by  acids  or  alkilies ;  and  the  skins  are  made  softer 
and  more  durable.  By  combining  the  colors  various 
shades  are  produced.  The  skins  may  be  dyed  as  described 
and  then  topped  with  an  aniline  or  vegetable  color. 

SOAP  RECEIPTS. 

To  prepare  a  soap  useful  in  making  fat-liquors, 

And  for  any  purpose  for  which  soap  is  needed  in  making 
leather,  the  following  practical  recipe  will  be  found  of  value  : 
Take  exactly  ten  pounds  of  double  refined  98  per  cent,  caustic 
soda  powder,  put  it  in  any  can  or  jar  with  forty -five  pounds 
(four  and  one-half  gallons)  of  water.  Stir  it  once  or  twice 
when  it  will  dissolve  immediately,  and  become  quite  hot. 
Let  it  stand  until  the  lye  thus  made  becomes  quite  cold. 
Weigh  out  and  place  in  any  convenient  vessel  for  mixing, 
exactly  seventy -five  pounds  of  clean  grease,  tallow  or  oil, 
not  mineral  oil.  A  good  plan  is  to  use  one-third  grease, 
one-third  tallow  and  one-third  cotton-seed  oil.  When 
grease  and  tallow  are  used  they  should  be  heated  slowly 
over  a  fire  until  dissolved  and  then  mixed  with  the  oil.  If 
oil  is  used  alone  no  heating  is  required.  The  temperature 
of  the  melted  grease  and  tallow  need  not  exceed  one  hun- 
dred degrees.  Pour  the  lye  slowly  into  the  melted  grease 
or  oil  in  a  small  stream  continuously,  at  the  same  time 
stirring  with  a  flat  wooden  stirrer  about  three  inches  broad  ; 
continue  gently  stirring  until  the  lye  and  grease  are 
thoroughly  combined  and  in  appearance  like  honey.  Do 
not  stir  too  long  or  the  mixture  will  separate  itself  again. 
The  time  required  varies  somewhat  with  the  weather,  and 
the  kind  of  grease,  tallow  or  oil  used.  From  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  is  generally  enough.    When  the  mixing 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


421 


is  completed,  pour  off  the  liquid  soap  into  any  old  square 
box  sufficiently  large  to  hold  it,  previously  dampening  the 
sides  with  water  so  as  to  prevent  the  soap  sticking.  Cover 
the  box  with  old  clothes  or  sacking,  or  better  still  put  it  in 
a  warm  place  until  the  next  day  when  the  box  will  contain 
130  pounds  of  soap,  which  can  then  be  cut  up  into  cakes 
with  a  wire.  Kemember  that  the  chief  points  in  the  above 
directions  must  be  exactly  followed.  The  lye  must  be 
allowed  to  cool.  The  melted  tallow  and  grease  must  not 
be  more  than  warm  when  it  is  used.  The  exact  weight  of 
double  refined  ninety-eight  per  cent,  powdered  caustic  soda 
and  tallow  or  oil  must  be  taken  ;  also  the  lye  must  be 
stirred  into  the  grease,  and  not  the  grease  and  oil  added  to 
the  lye.  If  the  grease  or  tallow  used  be  not  clean  or  con- 
tains salt  it  must  be  rendered  or  purified  previous  to  use, 
that  is  to  say,  boiled  with  water  and  allowed  to  become  hard 
again  to  throw  out  the  impurities.  Any  salt  present  will 
spoil  the  whole  operation  entirely,  but  discolored  or  rancid 
grease  or  tallow  is  just  as  good  as  fresh  for  making  this 
soap.  If  the  soap  turns  out  streaky  or  uneven  it  has  not 
been  thoroughly  mixed.  If  very  sharp  to  the  taste  too 
much  soda  has  been  used.  In  either  case  it  must  now  be 
thrown  into  a  pan  and  brought  to  a  boil  with  a  little  more 
water.  In  the  first  case  boiling  is  all  that  is  necessary,  in 
the  other  instances  a  very  little  oil  or  a  very  small  quantity 
of  the  caustic  soda  must  be  added  to  the  water.  These 
things  will  never  happen,  however,  if  the  directions  are 
carefully  and  exactly  follow^ed,  and  after  the  soap  has  been 
made  several  times  with  the  experience  thus  gained,  the 
process  is  extremely  easy  and  the  result  will  always  be  a 
batch  of  good  soap.  Beef  tallow  makes  the  hardest  soap, 
mutton  fat  a  rather  soft  soap  ;  of  oils,  cotton-seed  is  the 
cheapest  and  best,  but  the  soap  is  somewhat  soft  and 
lathers  very  freely.  It  will  be  evident  that  a  smaller  quan- 
tity of  the  soap  can  be  made  at  a  time,  according  to  the 
above  directions,  by  taking  the  ingredients  in  exact  propor- 


422 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


tions.  It  is  not  advisable  to  make  more  than  double  the 
quantity  prescribed,  as  it  is  difficult  to  work  more  by  hand. 
By  making  successive  batches  one  person  can  make  two 
tons  of  this  soap  in  a  day  with  the  apparatus,  pans,  etc., 
readily  obtainable  in  an  ordinary  household.  If  the  grease 
or  tallow  is  perfectly  clean  and  the  oil  light  colored,  the 
soap  produced  is  quite  white. 

Potash  soft  soap. 

To  twenty  pounds  of  clear  grease  take  seventeen  pounds 
of  pure  white  potash.  Buy  the  potash  in  as  fine  lumps  as 
can  be  procured,  and  place  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  soap 
barrel,  which  must  be  water  tight  and  strongly  hooped. 
Boil  the  grease  and  pour  it  boiling  hot  upon  the  potash  : 
then  add  two  pailfuls  of  boiling  hot  water  and  stir  all  to- 
gether. The  next  morning  add  two  pails  of  cold  water  and 
stir  for  half  an  hour  ;  continue  doing  this  until  the  barrel 
containing  thirty-six  gallons  is  filled  up.  In  less  than  a 
week  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  The  borax  or  potash  can  be 
turned  into  the  grease  while  boiling  and  also  one  pound  of 
resin.  The  grease  should  be  tried  out  and  free  from  scraps, 
ham  rinds,  bones  or  any  other  debris ;  then  the  soap  will 
be  clear  and  thick  as  jelly. 

This  formula  makes  a  good  soap 

Useful  as  an  ingredient  of  fat-liquors.  For  three  gallons  of 
soap  use  two  gallons  of  tallow,  and  one-half  gallon  cotton- 
seed oil.  Mix  together  while  both  are  lukewarm.  To  this 
mixture  add  one  quart  of  caustic  soda  that  has  been  slowly 
dissolved  in  two  quarts  of  water  in  an  earthen  vessel.  As 
a  fat-liquor  for  seventy  skins  take  ten  pounds  of  soap  to  five 
gallons  of  water,  boil  thoroughly  then  add  one  gallon  of 
degras.  Emulsify  thoroughly  and  run  in  sufficient  water  to 
mill  the  skins  in. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


423 


For  some  purposes  concentrated  aqueous  solutions  of  soaps 

Are  required,  in  which  instances  potash  soaps  are  preferred. 
A  potash  soap  extremely  soluble  in  water  is  obtained  by  the 
saponification  of  castor  oil  with  caustic  potash.  Three  and 
one-half  parts  of  mercury  albuminate  are  thoroughly  mixed 
with  thirty  parts  of  caustic  potash,  and  the  mixture  is  then 
poured  into  one  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of  castor  oil.  In 
place  of  castor  oil  cotton-seed  oil  may  be  used.  The  mix- 
ture is  boiled  and  constantly  stirred,  and  then  allowed  to 
evaporate  to  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  parts  and  is  then 
permitted  to  cool. 

Another  soap  is  prepared  as  follows:  One  hundred  parts 
of  cocoanut  oil,  or  cotton  seed  or  other  oil,  are  saponified 
with  fifty  parts  of  caustic  soda,  to  which  two  parts  of 
mercury  albuminate  have  been  added.  For  this  purpose 
two  parts  of  mercury  albuminate  are  well  mixed  with  ten 
parts  of  caustic  soda  until  a  perfectly  uniform  paste  is  ob- 
tained, when  forty  parts  of  caustic  soda  are  added  and  the 
mixture  is  then  poured  into  one  hundred  parts  of  cocoanut 
oil.  The  mass  is  constantly  stirred  until  the  saponification 
is  complete  and  a  uniform  soapy  mass  is  obtained,  when  the 
vessel  is  well  covered  and  allowed  to  stand  for  some  time. 
After  two  days  standing  the  soap  is  ready  for  use. 

BLACKING  AND  SOFTENING  COMPOSITIONS. 

A  useful  composition  of  matter  to  be  used  in  the  cleaning, 
blacking  and  oiling  of  leather  may  be  made  of  the  following 
ingredients,  in  the  proportions  named  :  Ten  quarts  of  water, 
two  ounces  of  bichromate  of  potash,  two  ounces  of  prussiate 
of  potash,  one  pint  of  neatsfoot  oil,  one-half  pound  best 
lampblack,  seventeen  bars  of  Acme  soap,  one  pound  of  cas- 
tile  soap — the  two  kinds  of  soap  to  be  finely  shaven  and 
boiled  in  water  until  no  lumps  are  seen.  Then  the  other 
ingredients  are  added,  and  all  thoroughly  stirred  together. 
Then  the  mixture  is  poured  into  pans  for  cooling.  The 


424 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


bichromate  and  prussiate  of  potash  serve  to  harden  the  soap 
and  to  fix  the  color.  The  Acme  soap  is  well  known,  and 
is  considered  more  perfectly  adapted  to  the  purpose  for 
which  it  is  here  employed  than  any  other  ingredient.  The 
bars  in  which  it  is  sold  weigh  one  pound  each.  German- 
town  lampblack  is  preferred  because  it  is  the  purest  lamp- 
black in  the  market.  In  using  this  composition,  the  leather 
should  first  be  freed  of  all  impurities  by  washing  in  clean 
water.  Leather,  no  matter  how  hard  and  dry  it  may  be,  is 
given  a  new  lustre  and  made  soft  and  pliable.  This  com- 
position has  been  patented  by  Henry  Parker,  Wilming- 
ton, Del. 

Another  composition  of  matter  useful  in  softening 
And  adding  to  the  durability  of  tanned  leather,  is  made  of 
the  following  ingredients :  Eight  and  one-half  gallons  of 
water,  two  pounds  of  gambler,  one-half  pound  of  beeswax, 
five  pounds  of  glauber  salt  and  one  and  one-half  pounds  of 
lampblack,  all  boiled  together  in  a  kettle  until  entirely  dis- 
solved. Five  pounds  of  beef  suet  are  melted  and  strained 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  three  quarts  of  water  and  twelve 
ounces  of  concentrated  lye  are  added,  and  boiled  until  well 
mixed.  Then  the  two  solutions  are  combined  and  boiled 
slowly.  Then  after  boiling,  two  gallons  of  crude  coal-oil 
are  added  and  the  mixture  stirred  until  it  is  cool.  A  few 
drops  of  cassia  and  alcohol  may  be  added.  This  composi- 
tion is  applied  to  the  grain  or  the  flesh  side  of  the  leather 
with  a  sponge  or  rag.  No  previous  preparation  of  the 
leather  is  required.  In  finishing  the  flesh  side,  the  lamp- 
black is  omitted.  It  is  useful  in  softening  hard  and  dry 
leather,  and  restores  old,  brittle  leather  to  a  condition  of 
softness  and  pliability.  Belting,  boots  or  shoes  and  harness 
may  be  improved  by  its  use.  Leather  may  also  be  finished 
with  it.  Boots  or  shoes  may  be  polished  with  the  use  of 
shoe  blacking  after  an  application  of  the  composition,  re- 
ceiving a  bright  polish.  Patented  by  E.  Z.  Coffee,  Phila- 
delphia, Pa. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


425 


A  leather  dressing  possessing  waterproof  qualities 

Is  sometimes  very  useful  for  the  purpose  of  preserving, 
blacking  and  polishing  leather.  Such  a  compound  may  be 
made  of  beeswax,  neatsfoot  oil,  drop-black,  heel-ball  and 
molasses.  Of  these  articles,  two  ounces  of  beeswax,  four 
ounces  of  neatsfoot  oil,  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  drop- 
black,  two  ounces  of  heel-ball  and  one  ounce  of  molasses 
are  used.  These  ingredients  are  mixed  and  thoroughly 
amalgamated  in  the  following  manner :  The  neatsfoot  oil 
and  drop-black  are  mixed  by  trituration  and  ground  in  any 
suitable  vessel,  until  they  are  thoroughly  mixed  together. 
Then  the  molasses  is  stirred  in.  In  the  meantime  the  heel- 
ball  and  beeswax  are  to  be  heated  together  in  any  suitable 
vessel  until  they  reach  the  boiling  point.  Then  the  neats- 
foot oil,  drop-black  and  molasses  are  stirred  into  the  heel- 
ball  and  beeswax,  and  the  whole  compound  thoroughly 
mixed  and  boiled  so  as  to  still  further  amalgamate  them, 
and  to  bring  them  into  complete  affinity  with  each  other. 
Then  the  mixture  is  allowed  to  cool  and  again  mixed  by 
trituration,  so  as  to  overcome  the  tendency  of  the  heavier 
ingredients  to  gravitate  while  the  compound  has  been  in  a 
melted  condition.  This  compound  may  be  applied  to  har- 
ness or  other  kinds  of  leather  by  means  of  a  brush  or  cloth, 
or  by  any  other  suitable  thing.  As  no  expensive  elements 
enter  into  the  composition,  it  is  very  economic  in  its  pro- 
duction. It  produces  a  surface  highly  impervious  to  water, 
while  of  itself  it  is  very  penetrating  and  diffusive  and  ren- 
ders the  leather  very  soft  and  pliable.  A  sufficient  quantity 
of  its  waxy  ingredients  remains  upon  the  surface  of  the 
leather  to  constitute  a  smooth,  hard  and  glossy  finish,  which 
does  not  transfer  the  coloring  ingredients  to  objects  that 
come  in  contact  wdth  it,  and  which  being  elastic  and  pliable, 
does  not  crack  under  the  influences  of  frost  and  heat. 
Patented  by  J.  J.  Baulch  and  others,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 


426 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


TO  PUT  WEIGHT  INTO  SOLE  LEATHER. 

Make  a  strong  liquor,  say  40  degrees  barkometer  test,  or 
over.  This  can  be  made  of  liquor  from  the  leaches  strength- 
ened up  by  the  addition  of  bark  extract  or  quebracho  ex- 
tract. After  withdrawing  the  leather,  wash  it  clean,  par- 
tially sammy  and  then  give  the  grain  a  coat  of  oil  and  the 
flesh  a  coat  of  sugar  and  Epsom  salts.  If  the  leather  is 
hard  give  it  70  per  cent,  sugar  and  30  per  cent.  Epsom 
salts.  If  it  is  soft  give  it  50  per  cent,  sugar,  and  50  per 
cent,  of  42  degree  glucose.  You  can  use  from  one-half 
pound  to  three  pounds  per  side  or  about  ten  per  cent,  of  the 
weight  of  the  leather.  Epsom  salts  have  a  softening  ten- 
dency, and  glauber  s^lts  may  be  used  instead.  Both  ^ 
materials  produce  good  results. 

LACTIC  ACID  IN  PLUMPING  AND  TANNING  LEATHER. 

The  following  interesting  process  is  patented  by  Sigmond 
Saxe,  of  New  York  City  :  There  are  several  steps  in  the 
ordinary  tanning  process.  A  number  of  vats  are  usually 
provided  and  are  filled  with  tanning  liquor  of  different 
degrees  of  strength,  the  hides  being  placed  in  the  vat  con- 
taining the  weakest  liquor,  and  thence  removed  to  the  next 
vat  in  which  the  liquor  is  stronger.  Some  tanners  prefer 
to  let  the  hides  remain  in  a  single  vat  and  to  change  the 
liquor  around  them.  When  this  is  done,  the  liquor  first 
brought  into  contact  with  the  hides  is  comparatively  weak, 
and  stronger  liquors  are  used  as  the  tanning  progresses. 
In  the  ordinary  processes  of  tanning  the  natural  tan  bark 
for  instance,  the  bark  of  the  chestnut-oak  (or  the  extract  of 
quebracho  wood)  is  leached  or  steeped  in  water  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  the  tanning  solution.  At  other  times  the 
tanning  liquor  is  made  of  a  solution  of  some  one  of  the  other 
commercial  tanning  extracts,  dissolved  in  water.  Some- 
times, too,  the  tanning  liquor  consists  of  a  double  solution 
containing  both  the  leached  extract  of  natural  bark  and  a 
commercial  tanning  extract  prepared  artificially. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION, 


427 


This  invention  relates  more  particularly  to  tanning  pro- 
cesses in  which  either  a  commercial  tanning  extract  is  used 
exclusively,  or  in  which  an  extract  is  used  with  extract 
obtained  by  leaching  bark.  A  twenty-five  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  ordinary  commercial  lactic  acid  is  taken  and  appor- 
tioned to  the  quantity  of  hides  to  be  tanned  at  the  ratio  of 
one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  this  acid  for  every 
one  hundred  pounds  of  hides.  This  fixed  proportion  is 
preserved  no  matter  what  may  be  the  purpose  for  which 
the  hides  are  tanned,  or  what  may  be  the  stage  of  the 
tanning  process.  Putting  this  commercial  lactic  acid  into 
the  solution,  the  tanning  process  goes  on  as  stated  with  this 
diff'erence, — to  wit,  the  lactic  acid  plumps  the  hides — that 
is  causes  them  to  distend  and  swell,  and  thereby  tan  more 
quickly.  As  the  commercial  tanning  extracts  are  of  vege- 
table origin,  and  as  the  natural  tanning  extract  obtained 
from  the  natural  bark  produces  a  tanning  solution  also  of 
vegetable  origin,  this  process  is  peculiarly  applicable  to  so- 
called    vegetable  "  tanning. 

The  addition  of  lactic  acid  to  the  tanning  liquor  causes 
the  hides  to  retain  their  substance  and  to  combine  with  a 
larger  proportion  of  the  tannin,  thereby  making  a  superior 
quality  of  leacher,  having  a  proportionately  heavy  weight. 
By  this  process  a  greater  amount  of  tannin  is  made  to  com- 
bine with  the  albumen  of  the  hide,  than  when  other 
methods  of  tanning  are  used. 

In  place  of  sour  liquors  used  to  plump  the  hides  a  liquor 
made  of  commercial  tanning  extracts  to  which  some  lactic 
acid  has  been  added,  is  preferred.  When  a  combination 
tanning  liquor  is  used,  made  of  the  extract  of  the  natural 
bark  and  tanning  extract,  the  addition  of  lactic  acid  is  an 
advantage  as  well  as  in  a  process  employing  a  commercial 
tanning  extract  alone.  Lactic  acid  may  also  be  used  in 
any  process  of  retanning.  For  the  retanning  it  is  custom- 
ary to  use  a  mixture  of  the  extract  of  natural  bark  and 
commercial  tanning  extract. 


428 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


LOGWOOD  LIQUOR. 

Into  eighty  gallons  of  water  put  seventy-five  pounds  of 
logwood  chips,  and  a  few  ounces  of  sal-soda.  Boil  for  two 
hours.  Before  using  add  a  small  quantity  of  either  am- 
monia or  sal-soda  to  each  pailful  of  logwood  liquor.  Use 
the  liquor  warm,  at  a  temperature  of  110  degrees.  The 
grain  of  leather  should  always  be  well  filled  with  the  log- 
wood liquor  before  a  striker  is  applied.  When  a  "  sig  "  is 
required  a  solution  of  caustic  soda  and  salts  of  tartar  may  be 
used — three  pounds  of  the  soda  and  three  pounds  of  the 
salts  boiled  in  fifty  gallons  of  water. 

CLEARING  LEATHER  WITH  ALUM  AND  SALT. 

Leather  that  is  to  be  colored  fancy  shades  is  greatly  bene- 
fitted by  being  cleared  in  a  drum  with  a  solution  of  alum 
and  salt.  This  process  is  especially  good  for  gambier  and 
combination  tanned  Russia  leather.  The  leather  is  taken 
in  dry  condition  and  uniformly  moistened  with  warm  water 
in  a  tub.  It  is  then  transferred  to  a  drum  and  run  for 
twenty  minutes  in  the  alum  and  salt — three  quarts  of  alum 
and  five  quarts  of  salt  being  used  for  each  one  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  of  dry  leather.  At  the  end  of  the  twenty 
minutes  the  leather  is  washed  ofi*  and  given  the  first  fat- 
liquor,  dried  out,  colored  and  finished.  Upon  Russia  leather, 
both  black  and  colored,  sulphated  oil  makes  a  very  good 
fat-liquor. 

Borax  and  lactic  acid 
Are  also  used  upon  this  class  of  leather  for  the  purpose  of 
bleaching  it  and  clearing  the  grain  of  grease  and  spots. 
This  is  a  safe  and  efficient  process,  as  it  leaves  no  undesir- 
able effects  upon  the  leather.  The  leather,  taken  from  the 
tanning  liquor  is  pressed  and  shaved  and  given  the  first 
fat-liquor  and  dried  out.  It  is  then  moistened  in  a  drum 
or  tub  with  warm  water  and  then  given  the  borax,  in 
quantity  about  five  pounds  for  each  one  hundred  and  fifty 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


429 


pounds  of  dry  leather,  dissolved  in  twenty  gallons  of  warm 
water.  The  borax  solution  at  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes  is 
drained  off  and  a  lactic  acid  liquor  given  to  the  leather, 
made  up  of  two  gallons  of  acid  in  fifty  gallons  of  warm 
water.  The  leather  is  run  in  this  liquor  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  washed  thoroughly  and  is  ready  for  the  coloring  pro- 
cess. The  borax  thoroughly  cleanses  the  leather,  and 
saponifies  whatever  fat  or  grease  there  may  be  in  the  grain, 
and  the  lactic  acid  clears  the  grain  and  opens  it  so  that  the 
coloring  material  can  readily  penetrate  and  produce  deep 
and  uniform  colors. 

BLEACHING  LEATHER  WITH  SULPHURIC  ACID  AND  SUMAC. 

This  process  is  useful  in  bleaching  russet,  skirting, 
Russia  leathers,  and  in  fact  any  class  of  leather  that  re- 
quires bleaching.  Taken  from  the  tanning  liquors,  pressed 
and  shaved,  the  leather  is  first  treated  with  sumac.  Three 
pails  of  dry  sumac  in  twenty-five  gallons  of  hot  water  are 
required  for  fifty  medium-sized  sides  or  the  equal  or  propor- 
tionate number  of  calf  skins.  Run  the  leather  in  the  sumac 
liquor  for  twenty  minutes,  then  allow  it  to  press  and  drain. 
The  first  part  of  the  bleaching  process  consists  of  the  use  of 
sumac  and  muriate  of  tin.  Fifty  gallons  of  water,  eight 
pails  of  dry  sumac  and  four  pounds  of  muriate  of  tin  are 
used,  the  whole  being  boiled  and  used  at  a  temperature  of 
125  degrees.  Drum  the  leather  in  enough  of  this  liquor  to 
cover  it,  for  one  hour,  then  drain  the  liquor  off  and  add 
sulphuric  acid,  about  twenty  ounces  of  the  same  being  used 
for  the  quantity  of  leather  mentioned  above.  Wash  the 
leather  for  five  minutes  in  this  acid  liquor,  then  wash  it  off 
in  cold  water  and  then  dry  it,  after  which  it  is  ready  for 
fat-liquoring,  or  coloring  as  it  may  require. 

For  Russia  leather,  and  other  similar  stock,  another  for- 
mula may  be  used,  namely:  two  pails  of  dry  sumac,  sixteen 
ounces  of  sulphuric  acid  and  four  quarts  of  salt  for  each  one 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  leather  weighed  in  the  dry  state^ 


430 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 


after  being  fat-liquored  and  dried  out.  The  leather  is  soft- 
ened with  warm  water  in  a  drum,  then  the  sumac  is  put  in, 
next  the  salt  and  finally  the  acid.  In  this  liquor  the  leather 
is  run  for  thirty  minutes,  then  it  is  washed  thoroughly  for 
fifteen  minutes  in  clear  water  and  is  ready  for  the  coloring 
process.  For  colored  leathers,  fat-liquors  made  of  oil,  soap 
and  degras  produce  the  best  results.  The  best  oils  for  the 
purpose  are  neatsfoot,  cod  and  sod  oils. 

Oxalic  acid  is  also  used  as  a  bleaching  agent  upon  leather. 
Sometimes  it  is  used  alone  and  again  it  is  combined  with 
tin  crystals.  Sixteen  ounces  of  oxalic  acid  and  eight  ounces 
of  tin  crystals  are  used  for  each  one  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  of  dry  leatlier.  Eun  the  leather  in  the  liquor  for 
twenty  minutes,  wash  it  thoroughly  and  give  it  color.  The 
leather  is  usually  fat-liquored  and  dried  out  before  it  is 
bleached. 


APPENDIX. 


BEAMIT. 
One-Bath  Beam-House  Process. 
Beamit,  which  is  manufactured  by  the  American  Hide  Pro- 
cess Co. ,  Chicago,  Ills. ,  is  claimed  to  be  a  compound  resulting 
from  many  years  work  on  the  part  of  a  chemist  associated  with 
that  of  a  practical  tanner,  and  is  said  to  offer  the  following  ad- 
vantages : 

It  takes  the  place  of  liming,  arsenic,  sodium,  etc.,  for  unhair- 
ing  hides,  horse  hides,  calf,  kip,  sides  and  wool  pelts.  It  does 
not  hurt  or  injure  the  hands  of  the  workers  in  any  manner,  is 
simple  to  use  and  certain  in  its  action. 

After  the  hides  or  skins  have  been  thoroughly  soaked  and 
fleshed  they  are  immersed  for  twenty-four  hours  in  a  solution 
of  Beamit.  Heavy  stock  may  perhaps  require  one  handling 
during  the  24  hours.  Stock  soaked  in  the  solution  is  passed 
directly  to  the  beamsters  for  unhairing. 

Beamit-soaked  hides  unhair  very  readily,  the  fine  hair  and 
the  scurf  go  with  the  hair.  After  unhairing,  the  stock  should 
be  washed  in  a  bridged  wheel,  with  luke-warm  water.  It  is 
then  in  condition  to  receive  tannin  of  any  kind.  That  is  to 
say,  stock  after  being  soaked  and  fleshed  can  in  twenty-four 
hours'  time  be  ready  for  the  liquor,  thereby  making  a  great 
saving  in  time  and  labor  as  compared  with  the  present  process 
of  tanning. 

Beamit  leaves  the  skin  in  a  clean  and  pure  condition,  so  that 
it  will  rapidly  absorb  anything  given  to  it.  Care  therefore  must 
be  taken  not  to  use  bate,  pickle  or  tan  liquor  too  strong. 

Bate  and  Pickle. — The  use  of  one  or  both  of  these  can  as  a 
rule,  be  dispensed  with,  but  for  soft  velvety  grain,  certain 
leathers  and  some  natural  skins  it  may  be  found  advantageous 
to  use  an  extremelv  light  bate  or  pickle  or  perhaps  both.    If  the 

(  431  ) 


432 


APPENDIX. 


tanner  decides  to  bate  he  will  find  two  hours'  time  in  an  ex- 
hausted bate  sufficient,  and  the  same  holds  good  in  regard  to 
pickle. 

Tan  Liquors. — For  chrome  tan  the  liquors  should  be  reduced 
in  strength  at  least  50  to  75  per  cent,  on  the  first  bath,  and 
strengthened  from  time  to  time  as  the  tanner  sees  fit.  In  the 
chrome  liquor  a  skin  in  a  paddle  wheel  should  require  from  3 
to  4  days  to  tan  ready  for  the  shaving  room.  In  vegetable  tan 
the  treatment  should  be  precisely  the  same  as  for  limed  skins, 
but  the  liquor  must  be  greatly  reduced  in  strength  to  prevent 
the  skins  being  over-tanned. 

Beamit  does  not  remove  the  gelatine  (gluten)  from  the  skin, 
therefore  it  makes  plumper  leather,  and  will  make  foot  for  pound 
in  chrome  leather,  as  no  shrinkage  of  the  skin  occurs.  In  vege- 
table tan  the  skin  makes  plumper  leather  and  yet  makes  as 
large  a  percentage  of  measure  as  limed  skins.  Beamit  treated 
skins  absorb  dye  and  fat  liquor  much  more  quickly  than  limed 
skins.  They  dry  rapidly  on  the  tacking  frame,  stake,  board 
and  glaze  easily,  taking  all  finishes  rapidly.  Leather  from 
skins  treated  with  Beamit  and  properly  tanned  will  not  crack 
on  the  grain.  The  grain  is  flexible  and  cannot  be  "  pipey  "  on 
a  fair  skin.  On  a  murrain  skin  where  there  is  a  good  hide  there 
is  good  leather,  and  where  there  is  flanky  leather  it  is  better 
than  that  on  limed  skins. 


INDEX. 


B 


ACID,  removal   of,    from  pickled 
skins,  25 

tanning,  new  one-bath  process  of, 
22,  23 
process  of,  109-111 
Acids,  removal  of,  from  pickled  skins, 
15-17 

use  of,  for  neutralizig  lime,  252 
Acme  soap,  423,  424 
Adler,  Geo-  W.,  process  of  chrome 

tanning  patented  by,  213-215 
African  goat-skins,  116 
Alizarine  oils,  use  of,  in  tanning, 
164-166 
or  Turkey-red  oils,  156,157 
Alum  and  chrome,  combination  pro- 
cess of,  45,  46 
salt,  clearing  leather  with, 
428 

process  for  hides  with  the 
hair  on,  330-332 
leather,  preparation  of  an  extra- 
fine  quality  of,  42,  43 
oil  and  napa  process  for  sheep- 
skins, 41-56 
processes,  311-314 
salt  and  gambier  liquors,  re-tan- 
ning with,  155 
tanned  goatskins,  chrome  tanning, 
111,112 
sheepskins,   to    bleach  the 
wool  on,  64 
-tawing,  patented  process  of,  167- 
169 

process  of,  41-46 
with  Turkey-red  oils,  166 
Alumed  pelts,  best  way  to  scour,  67,  68 
American  Hide  Process  Co.,  Chicago, 
111.,  beamit  manufactured  by,  480- 
432 

Aniline  dyeing  in  drums,  33 

dyes,    coloring     chrome- tanned 
goatskins  with,  124,  125 
dissolving  of,  33,  129,  135 
for  chrome-tanned  sheepskins, 

32-35  I 
on  vegetable  tanned  stock,  310 

(433) 


Animal  and  bird  dung,  drenching 

with,  11 
Antimonine,  75,  128 

and  tartar  emetic,  prepara- 
tion of  skins  by  the  use  of, 
309,  310 

Antiseptic  tanning  composition,  176- 
179 

Arsenic  limes,  liming  kangaroo  skins 
in,  337,  338_ 
red,  use  of,  in  connection  with 
lime,  88,  89 


AG,  case,  lace,  russet,  harness, 
line,  strap  and  belt  leather,  411- 
415 

Bark  and  extract  tannage  for  sheep- 
skins, 69 
tanned  sheepskins,  good 
black  on,  77 
extract  and  chamois  tanning  of 

sheepskins,  69-85 
liquor,  saltpetre,  alum  and  glau- 
ber  salt,  tanning  with,  175,  176 
Barkometer,  use  of  the,  377 
Base-ball  cover  and  whip  leather, 
399,  400 

Basils,  process  for  final  finishing  of, 

159-164 
Bate,  coal  tar,  use  of,  258-260 
from  crude  cresol,  253 
Norris  new  solid,  256,  257 
Bates  and  bating,  96,  97 
Bating,  bichromate  of  potash  in,  262, 
263 

by  the  use  of  a  compound  solution 
of  sulphuric  acid,  borax  and 
glauber  salt,  254,  255 
disturbing  influences  in,  97,  98 
grains,  383,  384 
heavy  hides,  370,  371 
interesting  patent  process  of,  260, 
261 

kangaroo  skins,  338,  339 
liquor,  putrefaction  of,  98 
or  puring  of  goatskins.  94,  95 
patented  processes  for,  252-263 


434 


INDEX. 


Bating  processes  as  applied  to  calfskins, 
273-278 

with  naplitlialine  sulphuric  acids, 
257,  258 
potatoes  and  yeast,  255,  256 
Baulch,  J.  J.,  leather  dressing  pos- 
sessing water-proof  qualities  pat- 
ented by,  425 
Beamhouse  and  tannery,  relations  be- 
tween the  processes  of,  to  the 
coloring  process,  132 
mistreatment  of  skins  i)i  the,  118 
process,  one-bath,  431,  432 
processes  for  calfskins,  264-278 
Beamit,  431.  432 

Belt,  bag,  case,  lace,  russet,  harness, 
line  and  strap  leather,  411-415 
laces,  new  method  for,  173-175 
Bichromate  of  potash,  use  of,  in  bat- 
ing, 262,  263 
Bindings,  leather  for,  54,  55 

preparation  of  sheepskins  for,  53 
Bird  and   animal   dung,  drenching 
with,  11 

Bismarck  brown  on  goatskins,  131 
Bisulphite  of  soda  and  permanganate 

of  potash,  bleaching  with,  68 
Black  chrome-tanned  calfskins,  281- 
283 

sheep  leather,  trouble  with, 
and  prevention,  39,  40 
good,  on  bark  and  extract  tanned 

sheepskins,  77 
leather,  gray  bottom  on,  115 
napa  leather,  coloring  of,  51 
shoe  leather,  finishing  skins  into, 
36-38 

Blacking  and  softening  compositions, 
423-425 

chrome-tanned  kangaroo  leather, 

344,  345 
good,  preparation  of,  51 
the  grain,  152 
Bleaching  and  clearing  leather  with 

borax  and  lactic  acid,  428,  429 
calfskins,  322 

leather,  methods  of,  353-359 

with    sulphuric    acid  and 
sumac,  429,  430 
of   sheep  pelts,   lambskins  and 
goatskins,     tanned    with  the 
wool  and  hair  on,  68 
Bloom,  prevention  of,  163 
Blue  flesh,  305 

Boracic  acid,  use  of  in  soaking,  87 
Borax  and  lactic  acid,  bleaching  and 
clearing  leather  with,  428,  429 
use  of  in  soaking,  86,  87,  268 
Bran  drench,  8-11,  146 


Bran  drench,  action  of,  9 

as  applied  to  goatskins,  99, 
100 

for  calfskins,  273-275 
preparation  of.  9, 10 
use  of,  for  deliming  calfskins,  277 
Brazilian  goatskins,  116 
Brown  and  tan,  various  shades  of,  on 

sheepskins,  30 
Browns  on  goatskins,  130,131, 135, 136 
Button  fly  linings,  leather  for,  52,  53 

CALF-KID  process,  old,  preparation 
of    very   soft  and  tough 
leather  by  the  use  of  a 
form  of,  401 
tawing,  modified  form  of,  43,  44 
Calf  leather,  dull  finish  for,  308 
glazed  finish  for,  308 
treatment  of,  after  the  oiling 
operation,  289 
Calfskin,  fleshers,  glove  leather  from, 
314,  315 

glove  leather  by  a  one-bath  chrome 
process,  318 
fat  liquor  for,  320 
yellow,  323,  324 
leather,  manufacture  of,  264-278 
process  for  finishing,  186,  187 
Calfskins,  alum  processes  for,  311-314 
and  chrome  processes,  279-296 
bating  processes  as   applied  to, 
273-278 

beamhouse  processes  for,  264-278 
black  chrome  tanned,  281-283 
bleaching  of,  322 
bran  drench  for,  273-275 
chrome  tanned,  directions  for  col- 
oring, 293-205 
for  glove  leather,  col- 
oring of,  319 
colored  chrome-tanned,  290-296 

fat-liquoring  of,  295,  296 
combination  and  vegetable-tanned, 

fat-liquoring  of,  303,  304 
dongola  liquor  for,  301-303 
drenching  of,  in  a  pin-mill  drum, 
276 

of  with  lactic  acid,  275,  276 
glove  leather  from,  264 
grain  blacking  of,  287 
green,  grading  and  classification 

of,  265,  266 
heavy,  fat-liquoring  of,  285,  286 
hemlock  or  combination  liquors 
for,  301 
quebracho  and  gambler  tan- 
nages for,  298-300 
light,  fat-liquoring  of,  285 


INDEX. 


435 


Calfskins,  limes  for,  316,  317 
manure  bating  for,  277,  278 
oil  processes  for,  323 
oil  tanned,  320,  321 
one-bath  process  for,  280,  281 
palmetto  tannage  for,  297,  298 
pickling  of,  317,  318 
popular  process  of  preparing,  for 

tanning  by  chrome  methods, 

269  _ 

practice  in  staining,  fat-liquoring 

and  dyeing,  284,  285 
preparation  of  limes  for,  270,  271 
processes  of  chrome  tanning,  318, 

319 

salted,  good  method  of  soaking, 

268,  269 
seasoning  for,  289,  290 
simple  method  of  tanning,  315 
soaking  of,  266-269 
soft  and  tough  leather  from,  322 
striking  out,  pressing  and  shav- 
ing, 281 

tanned  for  glove  and  mitten  pur- 
poses, 311-324 
tanning  of,  with   the  two-bath 

process,  279,  280 
use  of  bran  for  deliming,  277 
various  methods  of  tanning  and 

finishing.  264,  265 
vegetable  and  combination  tanned, 
297-310 
tanned,  coloring 
and  finishing 
of,  304-310 

Carbolic  acid,  177 

Carbonic  acid  gas  for  neutralizing  lime 
in  hides,  skins  and  glue  stock,  261, 
262 

Case,  lace,  russet,  harness,  line,  strap, 
belt  and  bag  leather,  411-415 

Cassella  &  Go's  brands  of  aniline  dyes, 
33,  34 

Chadwick,  S.,  process  for  changing 
the  chromic  acid  in  skins  into 
chromic  oxide,  patented  by,  205, 
206  ^ 

Chamois  leather,  82-85 

finishing  processes  for,  83 
from  fleshers,  84 
Chamoising  or  oil-tanning,  167 
Chicken  manure,  96 
China  goatskins,  116 
Chocolate  brown  on  calfskins,  293 

on  goatskins,  130,  131 
shade  on  sheepskins,  76 
shades  on  goatskins,  135,  136 
Chrome  alum,  preparation  of  liquors 
by  the  use  of,  225 


Chrome  and  vegetable  tannage,  com- 
bination of,  70,  71 
leather,  fat-liquoring  of,  with  mul- 
sine,  394,  395 
importance  of  fat-liquoring  in 

making,  114,  115 
method  of  tawing  for  making, 

206,  207 
retanning  of  with  gambler  or 
palmetto,  300,  301 
liquor,  application  of,  to  goatskins, 
102,  103 

liquors,  one-bath,  tanning  goat- 
skins with,  104, 
105 

tanning  pickled 
sheepskins  with, 
15,  16 

methods  of   tanning  deerskins, 
233-236 
popular  process  of  preparing 
calfskins  for  tanning  by, 
269 

process  of  tanning,  good  rule  to 
follow  in  the  making  of  light 
leather  by  any,  112 
processes  and  calfskins,  279-296 
for  tanning  sheepskin  fleshers, 
56 

one-bath,  for  kangaroo  leath- 
er, 342-344 
-tanned calfskins,  colored,  290-296 
directions  for  color- 
ing, 293-295 
for  glove  leather,  col- 
oring of,  319 
goatskins,  beneficial  effects  of 
permanganate  of  pot- 
ash on,  122,  123 
coloring  of,  before  they 
become  dry, 
126 

with  aniline 
dyes,  124, 
125 

with  s  u  1  f- 
araine  dyes, 
135-137 
finishing  of,  into  colored 
and  black,  glazed  and 
dull  leather,  119-143 
practical  working  direc- 
tions for  dyeing,  128, 
129 

kangaroo  leather,  preparation 
of,  for  coloring,  347 

leather,  retanning  of,  with 
gambler  or  palmetto,  378- 
380 


436 


INDEX. 


Chrome-tanned  sheep  leather,  black, 
trouble  with,  and  pre- 
vention, 39,  40 
leathers,  manufacture  of, 
15-40 

sheepskins,  aniline  dyes  for, 
32-35 

finishing  of,  into  glove 

leather,  28 
for  black  shoe  leather, 

finishing  of,  36-38 
mordanting  of,  40 
very  practical  method 
of    preparing,  with 
sumac,  31,  32 
side  glove  leather,  395,  396 
leather,  382-384 
-tanning  alum-tanned  goatskins, 
111,  112 
calfskins,  process  of,  318,  319 
goatskins,  101-118 
improved   process  of,  199- 
202 

one-bath  processes  of,  208-210 
preparation  of  sheepskins  for, 
15 

process  of,  that  produces 
leather  that  possesses  the 
good  qualities  of  both  alum 
and  chrome  leather,  213- 
215 

sheepskins,  common  method 

of,  17-19 
two-bath,  new  process  of,  103, 

104 

upper  from  cowhides,  385, 386 
Chromine,  218-222 
Coal  tar  bate,  drenching  in,  17 

use  of,  258-260 
Coats,  tanning  hides  for,  329,  330 
Coffee,  E.  Z.,  softening  composition, 

patented  by,  424 
Colored  chrome-tanned  calfskins,  290- 
296 

goat  leather,  seasoning  for,  141 
Coloring  and  finishing  India-tanned 
skins,  153-158 
vegetable  and  com- 
bination tanned 
calfskins,  304-310 
V  e  g  e  t  a  b  le-tanned 
sheepskins,  71,  72 
black  napa  leather,  51 
fat-liquoring    and    finishing  of 
hemlock,    gambler,  palmetto, 
quebracho    and  combination- 
tanned  sides  into  shoe  leather, 
387-396 

leather,  patented  process  of,  418- 
420 


Coloring  material,  quality  of,  132 

quality  of  water,  used  in  the  pro- 
cess of,  133,  135 
relations  between  the  beamhouse 
and  tannery  processes  to  the 
process  of,  132 
sheepskins,  28-31 

use  of  lactic  acid  in,  73,  74 
the  flesh  of  side  leathers,  389,  390 
Colors,  clearing  the  grain  for,  153 

effect  of  hard  water  on,  134 
Coltskins  and  horsehides,  397-410 
blue  flesh  upon,  403,  404 
Kussia,  for  shoe  purposes,  color- 
ing the  flesh  of,  yellow,  303 
tanning  of.  401 
softening  of,  397,  398 
Combination  tannage  for  sheepskins, 
70 

tanned  kangaroo  leather,  340,  341 
skins,  fat-liquor  for,  150 
Cooper,  Chas.  W.,  process  for  neutral- 
izing lime,  patented  by,  261,  262 
Corrosive  sublimate,  177  ' 
Cowhides,  chrome  upper  from,  385, 
386 

Cresol,  crude,  bate  obtained  from,  253 
sulfonic  acid,  252 

antiseptic  property  of, 
253 

Culls,  265 

Currying  and  fat-liquoring  goatskins, 
149,  150 

T\AIKY  skins.  266 
-L'    Deacon  skins,  266 
Deerskins,  227-240 

bleaching  of,  238 

chrome  methods  of  tanning,  233- 
236 

crude  process  of  tanning,  236,  237 
heating  of,  238 
liming  of.  227 

oiling  and  beating  of,  237,  238 
oil  or  chamois  tanned,  237-239 
old-fashioned  way  of  tanning,  232, 
233 

removing  the  grain  of,  227 

the  hair  from,  227 
tanning  of,  227-231 
tawing    of,    with    sulphate  of 

alumina,  231,  232 
two-bath  processes   for  tanning, 

235,  236 

verv   soft,  tough   leather  from, 
239,  240 
Degras,  321 

Degreasing  leather,  methods  of,  416- 
418 

Dennis,  Martin,  process,  210-213 


INDEX. 


437 


Depilating  kangaroo  skins,  336,  337 
mixture  for,  249,  250 
patented  methods  of,  241-250 
Depilatory,  new  XXX,  methods  of 
using,  241-247 
wool  pulling  with, 
13,  14 

Dieterle,    W.,    process    of  bating, 

patented  by.  252-254 
Direct  blue  paste,  51 
Dog  dung,  96 

Dolley  and  Crank,  process  of  tawing 

patented  by,  159-164 
Dongola  and  India-tanned  goat  and 
sheepskins,  144-158 
liquor  for  calfskins,  301-303 
for  goat  and  sheepskins,  148 
good  for  sides,  381,  382 
tannage,  composition  of,  144 

for  sides,  380 
tanned  goat  and  sheepskins,  144- 
153 

tanning  process,  147,  148 
Drench,  bran,  8-11 

for  skivers,  78,  79 
Drenching  in  coal-tar  bate,  17 

pickled  sheepskins,  16,  17 

process,  objects  of,  8 

sheepskins  and  goatskins,  146,  147 

with  animal  and  bird  dung,  11 

with  lactic  acid,  11,  12 
Drum  coloring,  128 

-tanning,  rapid  processes  of,  187- 
193 

Drums,  aniline  dyeing  in,  33 
tanning  of  skins  in,  113 
Dry  or  flint  hides,  soaking  of,  363- 
365 

Dung  bate,  danger  and  uncertainty  of, 
97,  98  ^ 

Durio,  J.,  rapid  process  of  drum  tan- 
ning, patented  by,  187-191 
Durio,  S.  G.  .rapid  process  of  drum 

tanning,  patented  by,  191-193 
Dyeing  bark  tanned  leather  black,  77 
chrome-tanned  goatskins,  practi- 
cal working  directions  for,  128, 
129 

cleanliness  in,  72,  73 

EAST  India  kip,  process  for  final 
finishing  of,  159-164 
Endemann,  H.,  method  of  tawing  for 
making  chrome   leather,  patented 
by,  206,  207 
Engelke,  J.,  antiseptic  tanning  com- 
position, patented  by,  176-179 
European  goatskins,  116 


FAT-LIQUOK   for   calfskin  glove 
leather,  320 
for  combination  tanned  skins,  150 
kangaroo  leather,  346 
palmetto  tannage,  298 
yellow  calfskin  glove  leather, 
323,  324 
formulas,  388 
very  good,  46,  138,  139 
Fat-liquoring,  114,  115,  137,  138 

and  currying  goatskins,  149, 
150 

and   grain-blacking   in  one 

operation,  121,  122 
colored  calfskins,  295,  296 
combination  and  vegetable- 
tanned  calfskins,  303,  304 
heavv  calfskins,  285,  286 
light  calfskins,  285 
sheepskins,  150,  151 
with  mulsine,  391-394 
-liquors  for  sheepskins,  31 

side  leathers,  formulas 
for,  390 
formulas  for,  304 
Finish,  clear,  bright,  liquor  for,  36 
dull,  on  napa  leather,  51 
securing  the  best,  38 
Finishing  and  coloring  India-tanned 
skins,  153-158 
and  glazing  goatskins,  140,  141 
chrome-tanned  goatskins  into  col- 
ored   and  black, 
glazed    and  dull 
leather,  119-143 
sheepskins  into  glove 
leather,  28 

leather,  153 
sheep  leather,  74,  75 
skivers,  81 
Flanks,  faulty  condition  of,  116 
Flesh,  blue  color  on,  40,  121, 122, 153, 
283,  305 
coloring  the,  37,  115,  151,  152 
side  of  black  chrome  leather,  dye- 
ing of,  281-283 
yellow,  305,  306 
Fleshers,  chamois  leather  from,  84 
sheepskin,  process  of  tanning,  54, 
55,  56 
Formic  aldehyde,  158 

as  a  tanning  agent,  169- 
171 

peculiar  action  of,  upon 
the  fibres  of  the  skin, 
163,  164 

use  of,  in  tanning,  159- 
164 

French  process  of  tanning,  171,  172 


438 


INDEX. 


Furs  and  hairskins,  tanning  of,  325- 
334 

Fustic  as  a  mordant,  126,  127,  292 

GAMBIER  and  quebracho,  combi- 
nation process  of,  for  sides, 
380,  381 
or  palmetto,  retanning  chrome 
leather  with,  300,  301 
retanning  with.  378-380 
palmetto     and  combination- 
tanned  calfskins,  color- 
ing and  finishing  of,  308- 
310 

and  combination-tanned 
kangaroo  leather,  treat- 
ment of,  after  tanning, 
348-352 
process  for  kangaroo  skins,  339, 
340 

quebracho  and  hemlock  tan- 
nages, 298-300 

tanning  side  leathers  with,  372, 
373 

Gathering  limes,  5 

Glazing  and  finishing  goatskins,  140, 
141 

colored  chrome-tanned  sheepskins, 
35,  3G 

liquor,  good,  for  sheepskins,  38 
Glove  and  mitten  leather,  process  for, 
405-408  ' 
purposes,  calfskins  tan- 
ned for,  311-324 
leather,  calfskin,  by  a  one-bath 
chrome  process, 
318 

fat-liquor  for,  320 
chrome-tanned  side,  395,  396 
coloring  chrome-tanned  calf- 
skins for,  319 
essential  qualities  of,  143, 315, 
316 

finishing  chrome-tanned 

sheepskins  into,  28 
from  calfskin  fleshers,  314, 
315 
calfskins,  264 
greenish  yellow,  35 
kid,  preparation  of,  by  taw- 
ing, 142 
process  for,  141,  142 
soft  and  tough,  process  for, 

313,  314 
treatment  of  horsehides  for, 

404,  405 
use  of  Turkey-red  oil  in  tan- 
ning sheep  and  lambskins 
into,  45 


Glove  leather,  very  soft  and  nearly 
white,  320 
strong,  method  of 
tawing  sheep- 
skins and  lamb- 
skins into,  44,45 
tough,  48 
yellow,  30 

calfskin,  322,  324 
chrome-tanned,  35 
material,  chrome-tanning  of  horse- 
hides  for,  406-408 
Gloves,  cheap,  leather  for,  52,  53 
leather  for,  54,  55  - 
soft  tough  leather  for,  53,  54 
Glues,  2G5 

Glue  stock,  neutralizing  lime  in,  261, 
262 

Goat  leather,  black,  155,  156 

blacking  of,  by  dyeing  on  a 

machine.  122 
clearing  the  grain  of,  156 
colored,  seasoning  for,  141 
essential  qualities  of,  95,  96 
finishing  of,  153 
good,  preparation  of,  by  taw- 
ing, 106,  107 
use  of  permanganate  of  potash 

in  coloring,  122-124 
very  light  and  fancy  shades 
on,  156 
Goatskins,  86-100 

alum  tanned,  chrome-tanning  of, 
111, 112 

and  sheepskins,  dongola-tanned, 
144-153 
dongola  and  India  tanned, 
144-158 

application  of  the  chrome  liquor 

to,  102,  103 
bating  or  puring  of,  94,  95 
beamhouse  work  for.  86-100 
black  on  the  grain  side  of,  119-121 
bran-drench  as  applied  to,  99,  100 
browns  on,  130,  131,  135,  136 
cheaper  grades  of,  117 
chocolate  shades  on,  135,  136 
'    chrome-tanned,  beneficial  eflfects 
of  permanganate  of 
potash  to,  122,  123 
coloring  of,  before  they 

become  dry.  126 
coloring  of,  with  ani- 
line dye.s,  124,  125 
coloring  of,  with  sul- 
famine  dyes  135-137 
finishing  of,  into  col- 
ored    and  black, 
glazed     and  dull 
leather,  119-143 


INDEX. 


439 


Goatskins,  chrome-tanned,  practical 
working  directions  for  dyeing, 
128-129 
chrome-tanning  of,  101-118 
cleansing  of,  98,  99 

of  lime,  133,  134 
clearing  the  grain  of,  of  grease, 
127,  128 

coarse,  rough   grain  along  the 
necks  and  shoulders  of,  117, 118 

danger  of  putrefaction  of,  87 

dark  tans  on,  135,  136 

depilation  of,  in  a  solution  of  sul- 
phide of  sodium,  92 

disturbing   influence   in  bating, 
97,  98 

dongola  liquor  for,  148 

drenching  of,  146,  147 

dry-salted  soaking  of,  86,  87 

fat-liquoring  of,  137,  138 

and  currying  of,  149,  150 
grain-blacking  in  one 
operation,  120,  121 

flanky, 116 

glazing  and  finishing  of,  140,  141 
heating  o^;  87,  88 
imperfectly  tanned,  improvement 
of,  158 

increasing  the  solidity  and  firm- 

nesss  of,  131,  132 
India-tanned,  coloring  and  finish- 
ing of,  153-158 
preparation  of,  154 
light  tan  shades  on,  136 
liming  process  for,  88,  89 
manure  bate  for,  96,  97 
method  of  tanning  with  the  one- 
bath  process,  107,  108 
methods  of  coloring.  124 

of  using  sulphite  of  sodium 
on,  90,  91 
mordanting  of,  128 
new  process  of  acid  tanning  for, 
109-111 
two-bath  chrome- 
tanning  for, 
103,  104 

original  two-bath  process  for,  101- 
103 

ox-blood  shade  on,  136,  137 
pickled,    satisfactory  method  of 

tanning,  109 
placing  of,  in  the  first  lime,  93 
plumping  of,  92,  93 
preliminary  pickling  of.  101,  102 
preparation  of,  for  coloring,  125, 
126 

tanning,  86- 
100,  145-146 


Goatskins,  process  for  final  finishing 
of,  159-164 
pricked  or  pitted  grain  of,  87 
raw,  action  of  lime  upon,  95,  96 
red  arsenic  for,  133 
retanning  of,  with  alum,  salt  and 
gambler  liq- 
uor, 155 
sumac,  154,  155 

soaking  of,  145 

and  softening  of,  152,  153 
sorting  of,  134 
striking  out  of,  139 
tanning   of,    directly   after  the 
drenching  and  washing,  105 
of,  with  the  one-bath  chrome 
liquors,  104,  105 
tan  shades  on,  124,  131 
treatment  of,  in  a  hot  bath  of 

sumac,  118 
various  shades  of  green  on,  137 
very  fine  kid  leather  from,  111, 
112 

with  the  hair  on,  bleaching  of,  68 
Grain  blacking,  37,  38,  152 

and   fat-liquoring    in  one 

operation,  121 
of  calfskins,  287 
of  goatskins,  119-121 
clearing  the,  for  colors,  153 
of  grease,  36 
of  greasy  matter,  140 
coarse,  rough,  along  the  necks 
and  shoulders  of  goatskins,  117, 
118 

dark  and  brittle  spots  upon  the, 
371 

dyeing  leather  black  upon  the, 

306,  307 
open,  porous,  cause  of,  115 
removing  the,  of  deerskins,  227 
Grains,  bating  of,  383,  384 
fat-liquor  for,  394 
tanning  the,  384-386 
palmetto  extract  for  retanning,  373 
Grease,  clearing  the  grain  of  goatskins 

of,  127,  128 
natural,  removal  of,  from  skins, 

416 

removal  of,  from  sheepskins,  15,  41 
Greases  and  oils,  effect  of  different,  on 

leathers,  390,  391 
Greenish -yellow     shade     on  glove 

leather,  35 
Green-salted  hides,  soaking  of,  362, 363 
Green  shade  on  sheepskins,  76,  77 

shades,  various,  on  goatskins,  137 


440 


INDEX. 


HAEMATOXYLIN,  306 
Haemetine.  306 
Hair,  removing  the,  from  deerskins, 
227 

Hairskins  and  furs,  tanning  of,  325-334 
and  hides  for  robes,  process  for, 
327-329 

dyeing  of,  with  ursol  dves,  333, 
334 

softening  of,  333 
Hard  water,  effect  of,  on  colors,  134 
use  of,  72 
preventing  the  evil  effects  of, 
72  _ 

softening  of,  134,  135 
Harness,  line,  strap,  belt,  bag,  case, 
lace  and  russet  leather,  411-415 
pads,  lining  for,  176 
Heavv  hides,  preparing  of,  for  tan- 
ning, 360-371 
Hemlock  and  quebracho  extracts,  com- 
bination of,  71,  411,  412 
liquors,  toning  down  the  harshness 

of  leather  tanned  with,  413 
or  combination  liquors  for  calf- 
skins and  kips,  301 
quebracho,  and  gambler  tannages, 
298-300 

tanned  sole  leather,  bleaching  of, 
357,  358 
Hemolin  XS,  306 

Hersey,  G,  W. ,  process  of  tanning- 
patented  by,  184,  185 
Hides  and  hairskins  for  robes,  process 
for,  327-329 
skins,  process  for  preparing, 
for  tanning,  247-249 
rational  method  of  neu- 
tralizing lime  in,  252 
tanning  of,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent them   from  be- 
coming hard,  183,  184 
dry  or  Hint,  soaking  of,  363,  364 
for  lace  leather,  tanning  of,  414, 
415 

robes,  coats,  etc.,  tanning  of, 
329,  330 

green-salted,  soaking  of,  362,  363 
heavy,  bating  of,  370,  371 

danger  of   putrefaction  of, 

364,  365 
lining  of,  366-369 
preparing  of,    for  tanning, 
360-371 
neutralizing  lime  in.  261,  262 
process  of  tanning,  181 
soaking  of,  360-362 
witii  the  hair  on.  alum  and  salt 
process  for, 330- 
332 


Hides  with  the  hair  on,  retanning  of, 
332,  333 

Hitt,  J.  W.,  process  of  tanning  pat- 
ented by,  175,  176 
Hoelck,  J.,  process  of  rapid  tanning 

patented  by,  179-181 
Holmes,  H. ,  mixture  for  unhairing, 

patented  by,  249,  250 
Horse  collars,  lining  for,  176 
Horsehide  leather  for  shoe  purposes, 
coloring  the  flesh  yellow,  403 
shoe  leather,  401-403 
Horsehides  and  coltskins,  397-410 
blue  flesh  upon,  403,  404 
chrome-tanning  of,  for  glove  ma- 
terial, 406-408 
for  glove  leather,  treatment  of, 

404,  405 
palmetto  extract  for,  401-403 
softening  of,  397,  398 
tanned  in  oil,  408,  409 
use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  upon, 
398 

Horse  leather,  bright  glazed  finish  on, 
403.  404 
dull  finish  on,  403 
seasoning  liquor  for  a  glazed 
finish  upon,  404 
Hull,  C.  S.,  and  Burns,  P.  S.,  process 

of  bating  patented  by,  257,  258 
Hydrogen   dioxide,  reduction  with, 

202-205 
Hyposulphite  of  soda,  42 

IXDIA  and  dongola-tanned  goat  and 
sheepskins,  144-158 
-tanned    goat    and  sheepskins, 
coloring  and  finishing  of.  153- 
158 

Indians,  process  of  tanning  deerskins 

in  use  among  the,  236,  237 
Information,  miscellaneous,  416-430 
Iron  striker,  good,  preparation  of,  288, 
289 

KANGAKOO  leather,  335-352 
blue  or  purple  back 

on,  350 
c  li  r  o  m  e  - 1  anned, 
blacking  of,  342- 
344 

chrome-t  anned, 
preparation  of, 
for  coloring,  347 

colored  yellow  on 
the  flesh  side, 
349,  350  ^ 

c  o  m  b  i  n  ation-tan- 
ned,  3-10,  341 


INDEX. 


441 


Kangaroo  leather,  dull  finish  on,  350. 
351 

fat-liquor  for.  346 
gambler,  palmetto  and 
combination  tanned, 
treatment  of,  after  tan- 
ning, 348-352 
glazed  finish  on.  346,  347 
of  remarkably  fine  tex- 
ture,  manufacture  of, 
341,  342 
one-bath   chrome  pro- 
cesses for,  342-344 
palmetto   treatment  of, 

347,  348 
seasonings  for,  352 
success  in  coloring,  351, 
352 

sumac  treatment  of,  347 
skin,  characteristics  of,  335 

process  for  finishing  a,  186,  187 
skins,  bating  of,  338,  339 
depilating  of,  336,  337 
gambler  process  for,  339,  340 
liming  of,  in  arsenic  limes,  337, 
338 

softening  of,  335,  336^ 
Kid  glove  leather,  preparation  of,  by 
tawing,  142 
process  for,  141,  142 
leather,  very  fine,  preparation  of, 
111,  112 
Killing,  process  of,  334 
Kips,  hemlock  or  combination  liquors 
for,  301 

Knees,    Chas.,   process  for  making 
leather  that  is  waterproof,  elastic,  | 
pliable,  heat  and  frost-proof,  pat- 
ented by,  172,  173 

Koch,  C.  VV.,  process  of  bating,  pat- 
ented by,  260,  261 

Krug,  W.  H.,  and  Haley,  E.  J,,  pro- 
cess of  bleaching  leather  patented 
by,  355-359 

K.  S.  solution,  110  | 

LACE  and  whip   leather,  tanning 
composition  for,  415 
leather,  414,  415 
russet,  haj-ness,  line,  strap,  belt, 
bag  and  case  leather.  411-415 
Lactic  acid,  advantages  of,  276,  277 

and  borax,  bleaching  and 
clearing  leather  with, 
428,  429 
clearing  the  grain  of  goat- 
skins of  grease  with,  127, 
128 

drenching  with,  11 , 12, 147, 
275,  276 


Lactic  acid  in  plumping  and  tanning 
leather,  426.  427 
treating  greasy  leather  with , 
417 

use  of,  398.  399 

as  bate,  370,  371 
in  coloring  sheep- 
skins, 73,  74 

Lactracine.  151 

Lambskins  and  sheepskins,  method  of 
tawing,  into  very 
soft,  strong  glove 
leather,  44,  45 

oil-tanned,  46-48, 
49,  50 

use  of  Turkey-red 
oil  in  tanning  of, 
into  glove  leath- 
er, 45 

very  soft,  tough 
glove  leather 
from,  48 

combination  process  of  alum  and 

chrome  for,  45,  46 
modified  form  of  calf-kid  tawing 

for,  43,  44 
removal  of  grease  from,  41 
with  the  wool,  bleaching  of,  68 
Lappe,  C.  E. ,  and  H.  A.,  process  of 

tanning  patented  by,  185-187 
Leather,  black,  gray  bottom  on,  115 
seasoning  for,  140 
bleaching  of,  353-359 

with  oxalic  acid,  430 
with  sulphuric  acid  and  su- 
mac, 429,  430 
brown  color  on  goatskins.  131 
calfskin,  manufacture  of,  264-278 
chrome-tanned,  retanning  of.  with 

gambler  or  palmetto,  378-380 
cleaning,   blacking    and  oiling, 

composition  for,  423,  424 
clearing  of,  with  alum  and  salt, 
428 

coloring  of,  patented  process  for, 
418-420 

dark  tanned,  lightening  the  color 

of,  354,  355 
degreasing.  methods  of,  416-418 
dressing    possessing  waterproof 

qualities,  425 
dyeing  black  of,  upon  the  grain, 
306.  307 

excellent,  preparation  of,  by  com- 
bining a  chrome  and  vegetable 
tannage,  70,  71 
fancy  shades  on.  198  199 
finished,  cause  of  imperfections  in, 
7,8 


442 


INDEX. 


Leather,  finishing  tlie,  153 

for  vamps  and  tops  of  shoes,  manu- 
facturing and  linishing,  185-187 
greasy,  treatment  of,  with  lactic 
acid,  417 
of,    Avith  naphtha, 
417  ^ 

increasing  the  solidity  and  firm- 
ness of,  37 

kangaroo,  335-352 

laces,  new  method  for,  173-175 

lactic  acid  in  plumping  and  tan- 
ning, 426,  427 

light,  good  rule  to  follow  in  the 
making  of,  112 

method  of  tanning,  whereby  the 
hides  are  rendered  soft  and  pli- 
able, 184,  185 

palmetto-tanned,  413,  414 

possessing  some  of  th@  qualities  of 
both  chrome  and  vegetable- 
tanned  stock,  149 

soft  and  tough,  from  calfskins, 
322 

pliable,  essential  qualities  of, 
369,  370 

that  is  waterproof,  elastic,  pliable, 
heat  and  frost  proof,  process  for 
making,  172,  173 
tough,  of  light  color,  400,  401 
use  of  permanganate  of  potash  in 

coloring,  122-124 
very  soft,  and  tough,  preparation 
of,  by  the  use  of  a  form  of 
the  old  calf-kid  process, 
401 

tough,  process  for  making, 
52,  53 

white  grease  spots  on,  416 

very  soft  and  tough,  prepara- 
tion of,  43,  44 
Leathers,  effect  of  different  oils  and 

grease  on.  390,  391 
Levant  inks,  140 

Lime,  action  of,  upon  raw  skins,  95,  96 
cleansing  the  stock  of,  133,  134 
fresh,  addition  of,  6 
mixing  of,  with  sulphide  of  so- 
dium. 91-94 
neutralizing  of,  in  hides,  skins  and 

glue  stock,  261,  262 
new,  preparation  of  a,  5 

of,  with  red  arsenic, 
88,  89 

rational  method   of  neutralizing 

of,  in  hides  and  skins,  252 
removal  of,  from  sheepskins,  82 
slaking  of,  3 

swelling  of,  property  of,  5 


Lime,  use  of  red  arsenic  and  sulphide  of 
sodium  in  conjunc- 
tion with,  89 
in   connection  with, 
88,  89 

sulphide  of  sodium  in  con- 
nection with,  7 
washing  out  the,  46,  47 
Limes,  gathering,  5 

preparation  of,  for  calfskins,  270 
271,  316,  317 
Liming  deerskins,  227 
goatskins,  88,  89 
heavy  hides,  366-369 
kangaroo  skins  in  arsenic  limes, 

337,  338 
length  of  time  required  for,  6 
process,  5-8 

use  of  sulphide  of  sodium  in, 
271-273 

Line,  strap,  belt,  bag,  case,  lace,  rus- 
set and  harness  leather,  411-415 
Linings,  preparation  of  sheepskins  for, 
53 

tanning  sheepskins  with  the  wool 
on  for,  57-68 
Liquors,     testing  the,    for  tanning 

strength,  412 
Logwood  extract,  120. 
liquor,  428 
paste,  120 
powder,  120 

McCONNELL,  J  AS.  C,  new  meth- 
od for  belt,  shoe  and  leather 
laces,  patented  by,  173-175 
Mahogany  shade  on  sheepskins,  30, 
31 

Manure  bate,  danger  and  uncertainty 
of,  97,  98 
efficacy  of  96,  97 
preparation  of,  97 
bating  for  calfskins,  277,  278 
drenching  with,  11 
Manures,  use  of,  as  bate,  370 
Menthol,  177 
Middlings,  9 

Mineral  oils,  effect  of,  upon  leather, 
390,  391 

Miscellaneous  information,  416-430 
Mitten  and  glove  leather,  process  for, 
405-408 
purposes,  calfskins  tan- 
ned for,  311-324 
Mittens,  soft,  tough  leather  for,  53,  54 
tanning  of  shearlings  and  sheep 
pelts  for,  57-68 
Mochas,  preparation  of,  for  tannings 
142,  143 


INDEX. 


443 


Mordant,  extract  of  fustic  as  a,  126, 
127,  292 
palmetto  extract  as  a,  127 
Mordants,  28 

Miiller,  A.,  experiments  of,  164 
Mulsine,  fat-liquoring  chrome  leather 
with,  394,  395 
with,  391-394 

NAPA  leather,  black,  coloring  of, 
51 

buffing  of,  51 
dull  finish  on,  51 
making  of,  49,  50 
original  process  of  mak- 
ing, 50 

Naphtha,  treating  leather  with,  417 
Naphthaline  sulphuric  acids,  bating 

with,  257,  258 
New  XXX  depilatory,  methods  of 
using,  241-247 
wool  pulling  with, 
13,  14 

Nigrosine,  blue  flesh  with,  121,  122 
Norris'  new  solid  bate,  256,  257 
Norris,  W.  N. ,  improved  process  of 
chrome  tanning  pat- 
ented by,  199-202 
process  of  coloring  goat- 
skins patented  bv,  122- 
124 

OETTLINGEK,    WM.,  process  of 
bating  patented  by,  255,  256 
Oil,  drumming  side  leather  in,  387 
horsehides  tanned  in,  408,  409 
processes,  323 
purification  of,  417,  418 
-tanned  calfskins,  320,  321 

sheep  and  lambskins,  46-48, 
49.  50 

tanning,  method  of.  321,  322 
oils  for,  321,  322 
or  chamoising,  167 
with  Turkey-red  oil,  410 
Oils  and  greases,  effect  of  different,  on 
leathers,  390,  391 
for  oil  tanning,  321,  322 
One-bath  beamhouse  process,  431,  432 
chrome  liquors,  tanning  goat- 
skins  with,  104, 
105 

tanning  pickled 
sheepskins    with,  j 
15,  16 
tanning  sheepskins 
with,   in  paddle 
vats,  23-25 
process,    calfskin  glove 
leather  by  a,  318 


One-bath  chrome  process  patented  by 
Jos.  W.  Smith,  216, 
217 

processes    for  kangaroo 
leather,  342-344 
liquor,  simple,  preparation  of, 
218 

liquors,  advantage  of,  208.  209 
handling  of,  in  paddle  vats, 
113 

process  for  calfskins,  280,  281 
method  of  tanning  goatskins 

with,  107,  108 
of  acid  tanning,  new,  22,  23 
processes    of  chrome-tanning, 

208-210 
tanning  liquor  known  as  chro- 
mine,  218-222 
process  for  grains,  384-386 
Oxalic  acid,  bleaching  leather  with, 
430 

Ox-blood,  good  shade  of,  29,  30 
shades  on  calfskins,  293-294 

goatskins,  129,  130,  136, 
137 

sheepskins,  29, 30, 34,  35, 
76 

PADDLE-VATS,  handling  of  one- 
bath-liquors  in,  113 
tanning  of  sheepskins 
in,  with  one-bath 
chrome  liquors,  23- 
25 

use  of,  for  liming,  6 

goatskins, 
93,  94 

Palmetto  extract,  297,  298 

as  mordant,  127 
as  substitute  for  gambler, 
144 

as  tanning  material,  374 
combination     of,  with 

quebracho,  71 
instructions  regarding 

the  use  of,  401-403 
method  of  using,  69 
qualities  of,  148 
retanning  calfskins  with, 

290,  291 

liquor,  tanning  sides  in,  374,  375 
or    gambler,    retanning  chrome 

leather  with,  300,  301 
tannage,  297,  298 
-tanned  leather,  413,  414 
treatment  of  kangaroo  leather, 

347,  348 

Parker,  H.,  Acme  soap,  patented  by, 
423,  424 


444 


INDEX. 


Patna  goatskins,  116 

Pelts,  aluraed,  best  way  to  scour,  67,  68 

heating  of,  2 

pulling  the,  4 

removing  the  water  from,  2 
Permanganate  of  potash,  40 

and  bisulphite  of 
soda,  bleaching 
with,_68 

beneficial  effects 
of,  to  chrome- 
tanned  goat- 
skins, 122,  123 

bleaching  with, 
354 

use  of,  in  color- 
ing goat-leath- 
er, 122-124 

Phenol,  177 

Pickle  for  grains,  79 

sheepskins,  composition  of,  12 
good,  147 

preliminary  for  goatskins,  101, 102 
Pickled  skins,  1-14 

drenching  of,  16,  17 
method  of  tanning,  20-22 
removing  the  acid  from, 
15-17 

tanning  of,  in  hemlock  liq- 
uors, 80 
without  drench- 
ing, 19,  20 
Pickling  calfskins,  317,  318 

process,  12.  13 
Pierson  and  Moor  process  for  treating 
skins  and  preparing  them  for  leather, 
250,  251 
Pigeon  dung,  96 

Pin-mill  drum,  drenching  in  a,  276 
Potash  soft  soap,  422 
Progress  tan  liquor,  221-223 
Pullman,  J.  and  E. ,  process  for  pre- 
paring hides  and  skins  for  tanning 
patented  by,  247-249 
Puring  or  bating  of  goatskins,  94,  95 
Putrefaction,  danger  of,  364,  365 

/\UEBRACHO  and  gambier  combi- 
nation,  process  of,  for  sides,  380, 
381 

and  hemlock  extracts,  combina- 
tion of,  71,  411,  412 

combination  of  palmetto  extract 
with,  71 

derivation  of  the  name,  376 

extract,  376,  377 

gambier  and  hemlock  tannages, 

298-300 
(luality  and  use  of,  37e5-378 


RED  arsenic  and  sulphide  of  sodium, 
advantages  of  using,  317 
and  sulphide   of  sodium, 
use   of,   in  conjunction 
with  lime,  89 
for  goatskins,  133 
limes  145,146 
use  of,  in  connection  with 
lime,  89,  89 
Retanning  chrome  leather  with  gam- 
bier or  palmetto,  300.  301 
hides  with  the  hair  on,  332,  333 
with  gambier  or  palmetto,  378-380 
Robes,  process  for  hairskins  and  hides 
for,  327-329 
tanning  hides  for,  329,  330 
Rugs,  tanning  shearlings  and  sheep 

pelts  for,  57-68 
Russia  coltskins  for  shoe  purposes,  col- 
oring the  flesh  of,  yel- 
low, 403 
tanning  of,  401 
leather,  fat  liquor  for,  394 
Russet,  harness,  line,  strap,  belt,  bag, 
case  and  lace  leather,  411-415 
bleaching  of,  429,  430 

SADTLER  ,  Saml  P. ,  reduction  with 
hydrogen  dioxide  patented  by, 
202-205 
Salicylic  acid,  177 

Salt  and  alum,  clearing  leather  with, 
428 

excessive  quantities  of,  118 
injurious  effect  of,  267 
use  of,  in  the  tanning  liquor,  112, 
113 

Satin  leather.  204 

Saxe,  S. ,  process  for  the  use  of  lactic 
acid    in    plumping    and  tanning 
leather,  patented  by,  426,  427 
Schlegel,  H. ,  process  of  bating,  pat- 
ented by,  262,  263 
Schultz,  process  patented  by,  196,  197 
two-bath  process,  original,  prac- 
tical application  of,  193-196 
Seal  brown  on  wool ,  67,  68 
Seasoning  for  black  leather,  140 
calfskins,  289,  290 
colored  leather,  141 
Seasonings,  140 

for  kangaroo  leather.  352 
Shearlings,  tanning  of,  57-68 
Sheep  leather,  barl^-tanned,  dyeing  of, 
black,  77 
black.  Ie55,  156 

chrome-tanned,  trou- 
ble with,  and  pre- 
vention, 39,  40 


INDEX. 


445 


Sheep  leather,  cause  of  defect,  39 

clearing  the  grain  of,  156 
drumming  of,  in  warm  su- 
mac liquor,  75,  76 
finishing  of,  74,  75, 153 
heating  of,  47 
very  light  and  fancy  shades 
on,  156 

leathers,  chrome-tanned,  manu- 
facture of,  15-40 
pelts,  bleaching  of,  68 

removal  of  grease  from,  64 
soaking  of,  144,  145 
tanning  of,  57-68 
with  the  wool  on,  cheap  and 
simple  method  of  prepar- 
ing, 60-63 
with  the  wool  on,  tanning  of, 
59,  60 

Sheepskin  fleshers.  process  of  tanning, 

54,  55,  56 
Sheepskins,  1-14,  41-56 

alum,  oil  and  napa  processes  for, 
41-56 

-tanned,  to  bleach  the  wool 
on,  64 

-tawing  processes  for,  41-46 
amount  of  drenching  required  by,  \ 
10,  11 

and  goatskins,  dongolaand  India- 
tanned,  1-14- 
158 

tanned, 144-153 
and  lambskins,  method  of  tawing, 
into  very  soft,  strong 
glove  leather.  44,  45 
oil-tanned.  46-48 
use  of  Turkey-red  oil  in 
tanning  of,  into  glove 
leather,  45 
very  soft,  tough  glove 
leather  from,  48 
applying  the  dye  to,  74,  75 
bark  and  extract  tannages  for,  69 
tanned,  good  black 
on,  77 

extract  and  chamois  tanning 
of,  69-85 
burning  of^  by  unslacked  lime,  7 
chamois  leather  from,  82 
chrome-tanned,  aniline  dyes  for, 
32-35 

finishing  of.  into  glove 

leather,  28 
mordanting  of,  40 
very  practical  method 
of  preparing,  with 
sumac,  31,32 
clearing  the  grain  of,  151 


Sheepskins,  colored  chrome-tanned, 
glazing  of,  35,  36 

coloring  of,  28-31 

combination  tannage  for,  70 

common  method  of  chrome-tan- 
ning, 17-19 

desirable  shades  for,  76 

dongola  liquor  for,  148 

drenching  of,  8-12,  146,  147 

dull  finish  on,  70 

fat-liquoring  of,  150,  151 

fat  liquors  for,  31 

finishing  of,  into  black  shoe  leath- 
er, 36-38 

for  dark  shades,  73 

good  glazing  liquor  for,  38 

heating  of,  83 

imperfectlv-tanned,  improvement 

of,  158  " 
India-tanned,  colbring  and  finish- 
ing of,  153-158 
preparation  of,  154 
liming  process  for,  5-8 
mahogany  shade  on,  30,  31 
modified  form  of  calf-kid  tawing 

for,  43,  44 
most  commonly   used  two-bath 

process  of  tanning  for,  25-27 
napa  tannage  for,  49,  50 
new  one-bath  process  of  acid  tan- 
ning for,  22,  23 
oiling  of,  83 

ox-blood  shades  on,  29,  30,  34,  35 
pickled,  combination  process  of 

alum  and  chrome  for,  45, 

46 

drenching  of,  16,  17 
method  of  tanning,  20-22 
neutralizing  the  acid  in,  50 
removal  of  acids  from,  15-17, 
41 

tanning  of,  in  bark  or  extract 
liquors,  69 
of.  with  one-bath  chrome 

liquors,  15-16 
of.  without  drenching,  19, 
20 

pickling  of,  12 

preparation  of,  for  chrome-tan- 
ning. 15 
of  for  limings,  bindings,  and 

similar  purposes.  53 
of,  for  tanning,  145.  146 
process  of  two-bath  tanning  for, 
27,  28 

removal  of  lime  from,  82 

of  grease  from,  8,  15,  41 
retanning  of,  with  alum,  salt  and 
gambler  liquor,  155 


446 


INDEX. 


Sheepskins,  retanning  of,  with  sumac, 
154,  155 
soaking  of,  1,  2 
splitting  of.  78 

sorting  of,  before  coloring,  74 
sumac-tanned,  coloring  of,  80,  81 
tan  shades  on,  34,  35 
tanning  of,  in  two-bath  processes, 
25-28 

with  one-bath  chrome  liq- 
uors, in  paddle  vats,  23- 
25 

to  produce  quickly  and  cheaply, 
a  soft,  tough  leather  from,  53, 
54 

treatment  of,  after  pulling,  4 
of,  after  tanning,  82-84 
use  of  lactic  acid  in  coloring,  73, 
74 

various  shades  of  brojvn  and  tan 
on,  30 

vegetable  tanned,  coloring  and 

finishing  of,  71,  72 
with  wool  on,  very  satisfactory 
method  of  tanning,  66,  67 
Shoe  laces,  new  method  for,  173-175 
leather,   black,    finishing  skins 
into,  36-38 
coloring,   fat-liquoring  and 
finishing  of  hemlock,  gam- 
bier,  palmetto,  quebracho 
and      combination-tanned  I 
sides  into,  387-396 
horse  hide,  401-403 
purposes,  side  leathers  for,  and 
methods  of  tanning  them,  372- 
386 

tops,  leather  for,  185- 187 
Side  glove  leather,  chrome-tanned, 
395,  396 
leather,  chrome-tanned,  382-384 
drumming  of,  in  oil,  387 
fat-liquoring  of,  388,  389 
leathers,  coloring  the  flesh  of, 
389,  390 
fat-liquors  for,  390 
for  shoe  purposes  and  methods 
of  tanning  them,  372-386 
Sides,  coloring,  fat-liquoring  and  fin- 
ishing of  hemlock,  gambier, 
palmetto,  quebracho  and  com- 
bination-tanned,    into  shoe 
leather,  387-396 
tanning  of,  by  suspension,  379, 380 
in  palmetto  liquor,  374, 
375 

Skin  preserver,  good,  147 
Skins  and  hides,  process  for  preparing, 
for  tanning,  247-249 


Skins  and  hides,  rational  method  of 
neutralizing  lime  in, 
252 

tanning  of,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent them  from  becom- 
ing hard,  183,  184 
cracking  and  breaking  of,  during 

the  finishing  processes,  6 
flanky, 116 

from  which  the  grain  has  been 
removed  after  liming,  prepara- 
tion of,  for  tanning,  142,  143 
imperfectly  tanned,  improvement 
of,  158 

India-tanned,  coloring  and  finish- 
ing of,  153-158 
mistreatment   of,  in   the  beam- 
house,  118 
neutralizing  lime  in,  261,  262 
pickled,  1-14 

Pierson  and  Moor  process  for  pre- 
paring, 250,  251 
preparation  of  a  liquor  for  tan- 
ning, 225,  226 
removal  of  natural  grease  from,416 
sorting  of,  112 
tanning  of,  in  drums,  113 
treatment  of,  with  a  liquor  com- 
posed of  whiting,  salt,  chrome, 
alum,  saltpetre  and  muriatic 
acid,  216 

!  Skirting  leather,  bleaching  of,  429,  430 
Skiver,  definition  of,  78 
Skivers,  78-80 

drench  for,  78,  79 
finishing  of,  81 
good  process  of  tanning,  81 
use  of,  78 

various  materials  used  in  tanning, 
79,  80 
S.  K.  solution.  22,  23 
Slat,  opening  the,  4 
Slats,  swelling  or  plumping  of,  5 
Slunks,  266 

Smith,  Jos.,  W. ,   one-bath  chrome 

process  patented  by,  216,  217 
Soaking  calfskins,  266-269 
hides.  360-362 

process,  relations  between,  and 

subsequent  processes,  1 
sheepskins,  1,  2 
too  much,  eflfects  of,  1,2 
Soap,  Acme,  423,  424 

and  oil  tannage,  49,  50 
good,  formula  for,  422 
receipts,  420-423 
solutions,  aqueous,  423 
wool-washing,  65,  66 
Sod  oil,  321 


INDEX. 


447 


Softening  and  blacking  compositions, 
423-425 
composition,  424 
kangaroo  skins,  335,  336 
Sole  leather,  hemlock-tanned,  bleach- 
ing of,  357,  358 
to  put  weight  into,  426 
Splits,  palmetto  extract  for  retanning, 
373 

Stain,  283,  284 

Staining,    fat-Jiquoring    and  dyeing 
calfskins,  practice  in,  284,  285 
liquor,  283 
Strap,  belt,  bag,  case,  lace,  russet,  har- 
ness and  line  leather,  411-415 
Strikers,  receipts  for,  37,  38,  77,  152, 

287,  288,  307,  345 
Striking  out  goatskins,  139 
Stuffing  mixture,  174,  180 
Sugar  of  lead   and   sulphuric  acid, 

bleaching  with,  353,  354 
Sulfamine  dyed  sheepskins,  35 

dyes,    coloring  chrome-tanned 
goatskins  with,  135-137 
for  coloring  calfskins,  294,  295 
practical  working  directions 
getting   desirable  shades 
with,  135-137 
Sulfonic  acids  of  the  cresols,  252 
Sulphate  of  alumina,   tawing  deer- 
skins with,  231,  232 
of  iron,  reduction  with,  205,  206 
Sulphide  of  sodium  and  lime,  apply- 
ing the,  3,  4 
and  red   arsenic,  ad- 
vantages  of  using, 
317 

and  red  arsenic,  use  of, 
in  conjunction  with 
lime,  89 
common    method  of 

using,  2 
liquor,  strength  of,  3 
mixing    lime  with, 

91-94  ^ 
use  of,  in  connection 
with  lime,  7 
in  liming,  271- 
273 

in  soaking,  268 
upon  horse- 
hides,  398 
various    methods  of 

using.  90,  91 
wool-pulling  with,  2-4 
Sulpho-compounds.  or  their  mixture 
with  fats  and  oils,  use  of,  in  tan- 
ning, 164-166 
Sulpholeates,  production  of,  165 
use  of  in  tanning,  165,  166 


Sulphuric  acid  and  sumac,  bleaching 

leather  with,  429,  430 
Sumac  and  sulphuric  acid,  bleaching 
leather  with,  429,  430 
hot  bath,  treatment  of  goatskins 

in,  118 
liquor.  39 

warm,      drumming  sheep 
leather  in,  75,  76 
retanning  calfskins  with,  291,  292 

with,  154,  155 
tanned  skins,  coloring  of,  80,  81 
treatment  of  kangaroo  leather.  347 
use  of  in  coloring  chrome-tanned 

goatskins,  125 
very  practical  method  of  prepar- 
ing chrome-tanned  sheepskins 
with,  31.  32 
Sykes.  W.   F. ,  process  of  coloring 

leather  patented  by,  418-420 
S.  Z.  solution,  22,  23,  110 

TAN  and  brown,  various  shades  of, 
on  sheepskins,  30 
liquor,  old  sour,  use  of,  9 
shades,  light,  on  calfskins,  294 
on  goatskins,  136 
on  goatskins,  124,  131 
sheepskins,  34,  35 
Tans,  dark,  on  goatskins,  135,  136 
Tannage,  palmetto,  297,  298 
Tannages,  hemlock,  quebracho,  and 

gam  bier,  298-300 
Tannery  and  beamhouse,  relations  be- 
tween the  processes  of  the,  and  the 
coloring  process.  132 
Tanning  and  tawing,  patented  pro- 
cesses of,  159-226 
calfskins,  simple  method  of,  315 
composition,  antiseptic,  176-179 
of  matter  in  connection  with, 
182, 183 
French  process  of,  171,  172 
furs  and  hairskins,  325-334 
hides  for  robes,  coats,  etc.,  329, 
330 

liquors,  strength  of,  382 
methods  of,  for  side  leathers  for 

shoe  purposes,  372-386 
preparing  heavy  hides  for,  360- 

371 

rapid,  patented  process  of,  179- 
181 

skivers,  various  materials  used  in, 
79,  80 
Tanolin,  210-213 
Tartar  emetic.  128 

and  antimonine,  preparation 
of  skins  by  the  use  of,  309, 
310 


448 


INDEX. 


Tawing  and  tanning,  patented  pro- 
cesses of,  159-226 
calfkid,  modified  form  of,  43,  44 
deerskins     with     sulphate  of 

alumina,  231,  232 
in  vats,  43 

method  of,  for  making  chrome 

leather,  206,  207 
preparation  of  good  goat  leather 
by,  106,  107 
of  kid  glove  leather  by,  142 
solution  for,  41 

white,  process  of,  recently  pat- 
ented in  Germany,  43 
Tobacco  brown  on  goatskins,  131 
Turkey-red  oil  solution  for  the  pro- 
duction of  chamois  leather, 
84,85 

oil,  oil-tanning  with,  416 
oil,  use  of,  for  tahning  sheep 

and  lambskins,  45 
oils,  alum-tanning  with,  166 
use  of,  in  tanning,  164-166 
or  alizarine  oils,  156,  157 
Two-bath  chrome  tanning,  new  pro- 
cess of,  103,  104 
process,  original,  for  goatskins, 
101-103 
Schultz,  practical 
application  of, 
193-196 
tanning  calfskins  with  the, 
279,  280 
processes  for  tanning  deerskins, 
235,  236 
nicety  of  proportions  required 

by, 113 
tanning  sheepskins  in,  25-28 
tanning,  a  process  of,  27,  28 
most  commonly  used  process 
of,  25-27 


u 


RSOL  dyes,  dyeing  with,  333,  334 


VACROME,  223-225 
Vamps,  leather  for,  185-187 
Veal  kips,  266 
skins,  266 


Vegetable-tanned  sheepskins,  coloring- 
and  finishing  of,  71,  72: 
stock,  aniline  dyes  on, 
310 

WARTER,  A.,  and  Koegel,  H.  C, 
process  of  alum   tawing  pat- 
ented by,  167-169 
Water,  hard,  efl'ect  of,  on  colors,  134 
of  the  use  of,  72 
preventing  the  evil  effects 

of,  72 
softening  of,  134,  135 
quality  of,  used  in  the  coloring 
process,  134,  135 
Wax  calf.  264 

Whip  and  baseball-cover  leather,  399, 
400 

lace  leather,  tanning  compo- 
sition for,  415 
White  leather,  very  soft  and  tough, 

preparation  of.  43.  44 
White  tawing,  process  of,  recently  in- 
vented in  Germany,  43 
Whites,  prevention  of,  163 
Wilson ,  N. ,  process  of  bating  patented 

by,  254,  255 
Wine  color,  dark,  on  calfskins,  293,  294 
Wool    on    alum-tanned  sheepskins, 
bleaching  of,  64 
pulling,  1-14 

sweating  process  for,  14 
treatment  of  the  skins  after,  4 
with  new  XXX  depilatory, 
13,  14 
sulphide  of  sodium,  2-4 
seal-brown  on,  67,  68 
-washing  soap,  65,  66 
Woolskins,  57-68 

cheap  process  of  tanning,  64,  65 
coloring  of,  52 
tanning  solution  for,  58,  59 
white,  tannage  for,  62 

YELLOW  calfskin   glove  leather, 
323,  324 
chrome-tanned  glove  leather,  35 
flesh,  305,  306 
glove  leather,  30 
ochre,  322 


Stationers'  Hall  Court,  London,  E.G. 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S 
datalogue  of 

Scientific,  Technical  and 
Industrial  Books. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Mechanical  Engineering.  . 

,        .  1 

Sanitation  and  Water  Supply  . 

.  28 

Steam  Engines  and  Boilers  . 

.     .  3 

Carpentry  and  Timber  . 

.  29 

Civil  Engineering 

.     .  10 

Decorative  Arts  

.  31 

Hydraulics  

.     .  11 

Natural  Science  

.  33 

Surveying  

.     .  12 

Checnical  Manufactures  . 

.  34 

Marine  Engineering  . 

.     .  17 

Industrial  Arts    .  . 

.  36 

Mining  and  Metallurgy  . 

.     .  19 

Commerce,  Tables,  &c.  .    .  . 

.  41 

Colliery  Working  .... 

.     .  21 

Agriculture  and  Gardening  . 

.  43 

Electrical  Engineering  . 

.     .  23 

Auctioneering,  Valuing,  &c. . 

.  46 

Architecture  and  Building  . 

.     .  26 

Law  and  Miscellaneous  . 

.  47 

MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING,  ETC. 


THE  mechanical  ENGINEER'S  POCKET-BGOK. 

Comprising  Tables,  Formulae,  Rules,  and  Data :  A'  Handy  Book  of  Reference  for 
Daily  Use  in  Engineering  Practice.  By  D.  Kinnear  Clark,  M.  Inst.  C.E. 
Fifth  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised  and  Enlarged.  By  H.  H.  P.  Powles, 
A.M. I.e. 5-,  M.I.M.E.  Small  8vo,  700  pages,  bound  in  flexible  leather  cover, 
rounded  corners  [Just  Published.    Net  6/- 

SUMMARY  OF  CONTENTS. 

Mathematical  Tables. — Measurement  of  Surfaces  and  Solids. — English  Weights  and 
Measures. — French  Metric  Weights  and  Measures. — Foreign  Weights  and  Measures. — 
Moneys. — Specific  Gravity,  Weight  and  Volume. — Manufactured  Metals.— Steel  Pipes. — 
Bolts  and  Nuts. — Sundry  Articles  in  Wrought  and  Cast  Iron,  Copper,  Brass,  Lead,  Tin, 
Zinc. — Strength  of  Materials. — Strength  of  Timber. — Strength  of  Cast  Iron.— Strength 
of  Wrought  Iron. — Strength  of  Steel. — Tensile  Strength  of  Copper,  Lead,  etc. — Resistance 
of  Stones  and  other  Building  Materials. — Riveted  Joints  in  Boiler  Plates. — Boiler  Shells. 
— Wire  Ropes  and  Hemp  Ropes. — Chains  and  Chain  Cables. — Framing. — Hardness  of  Metals, 
Alloys  and  Stones. — Labour  of  Animals. — Mechanical  Principles. — Gravity  and  Fall  of 
Bodies. — Accelerating  and  Retarding  Forces. — Mill  Gearing,  Shafting,  &c. — Transmission 
of  Motive  Power. — Heat. — Combustion  :  Fuels. — Warming,  Ventilation,  Cooking  Stoves, — 
Steam.^ — Steam  Engines  and  Boilers. — Railways. — Tramways. — Steam  Ships. — Pumping  Steam 
Engines  and  Pumps. — Coal  Gas,  Gas  Engines,  &c. — Air  in  Motion. — Compressed  Air. — Hot  Air 
Engines. — Water  Power.— Speed  of  Cutting  Tools. — Colours. — Electrical  Engineering. 

"  Mr.  Clark  manifests  what  is  an  innate  perception  of  what  is  likely  to  be  useful  in  a  pocket-book, 
and  he  is  really  unrivalled  in  the  art  of  condensation.  It  is  very  difficult  to  hit  upon  any  mechanical 
engineering  subject  concerning  which  this  work  supplies  no  information,  and  the  excellent  index  at  the 
end  adds  to  its  utility.  In  one  word,  it  is  an  exceedingly  handy  and  efficient  tool,  possessed  of  which 
the  engineer  will  be  saved  many  a  wearisome  calculation,  or  yet  more  wearisome  hunt  through  various 
text-books  and  treatises,  and,  as  such,  we  can  heartily  recommend  it  to  our  readers."— 77je  Engineer. 

"  It  would  be  found  difficult  to  compress  more  matter  within  a  similar  compass  or  produce  a  book 
of  700  pages  which  should  be  more  compact  or  convenient  for  pocket  reference.  .  .  .  Will  be 
appreciated  by  mechanical  engineers  of  all  classes." — Practical  Engineer. 

A 


2 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


MR.  MUTTON'S  PRACTICAL  HANDBOOKS. 


THE  WORKS*  MANAGER'S  HANDBOOK. 

Comprising  Modern  Rules,  Tables,  and  Data.    For  Engineers,  Millwrights,  and 
Boiler  Makers ;  Tool  Makers.  Machinists,  and  Metal  Workers  ;  Iron  and  Brass 
Founders,  &c.    By  W.  S.  Hutton,  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineer,  Author  of 
♦'The  Practical  Engineer's  Handbook."    Sixth  Edition,  carefully  Revised  and 
enlarged.    In  One  handsome  Volume,  medium  8vo,  strongly  bound      .  15/- 
1^  The  Author  having  compiled  Rules  and  Data  for  his  own  use  in  a  gnat  variety 
of  modern  engineering  ivork,  and  having  found  his  notes  extremely  useful,  decided  to  publish 
thgfn — revised  to  date— believing  that  a  practical  work,  suited  to  the  daily  requirements  of 
MODERN  ENGINEERS,  would  be  favourably  received. 

"  Of  this  edition  we  may  repeat  the  appreciative  remarks  we  made  upon  the  first  and  third.  Since 
the  appearance  of  the  latter  very  considerable  modifications  have  been  made,  although  the  total  number 
of  pages  remains  almost  the  same.  It  is  a  very  useful  collection  of  rules,  tables,  and  workshop  and 
drawing  office  data."— Engineer,  May  lo,  1895. 

"  The  author  treats  every  subject  from  the  point  of  view  of  one  who  has  collected  workshop  notes 
for  application  in  workshop  practice,  rather  than  from  the  theoretical  or  literary  aspect.  The  volume 
contains  a  great  deal  of  that  kind  of  information  which  is  gained  only  by  practical  experience,  and  is 
seldom  written  in  books."— 7"/ze  Engineer,  June  5,  1885. 

"  The  volume  is  an  exceedingly  ilseful  one,  brimful  with  engineer's  notes,  memoranda,  and  rules, 
and  well  worthy  of  being  on  every  mechanical  engineer's  bookshelf." — Mechanical  World. 

"The  information  is  precisely  that  likely  to  be  required  in  practice.  .  .  .  The  work  forms  a 
desirable  addition  to  the  library  not  only  of  the  works  manager,  but  of  any  one  connected  with  general 
engineering." — Mining  Journal. 

"  Brimful  of  useful  information,  stated  in  a  concise  form,  Mr.  Hutton's  books  have  met  a  pressing 
want  among  engineers.  The  book  must  prove  extremely  useful  to  every  practical  man  possessing  a 
copy." — Practical  Engineer. 


THE  PRACTICAL  ENGINEER'S  HANDBOOK. 

Comprising  a  Treatise  on  Modern  Engines  and  Boilers,  Marine,  Locomotive,  and 
Stationary.    And  containing  a  large  collection  of  Rules  and  Practical  Data 
relating  to  recent  Practice  in  Designing  and  Constructing  all  kinds  of  Engines, 
Boilers,  and  other  Engineering  work.    The  whole  constituting  a  comprehensive 
Key  to  the  Board  of  Trade  and  other  Examinations  for  Certificates  of  Competency 
in  Modern   Mechanical   Engineering.     By  Walter  S.  Hutton,  Civil  and 
Mechanical    Engineer,   Author   of  "The   Works    Manager's   Handbook  for 
Engineers,"  &c.    With  upwards  of  420  Illustrations.    Sixth  Edition,  Revised 
and  Enlarged.  Medium  8vo,  nearly  560  pp.,  strongly  bound     .       .       .  18/- 
i^*"  This  work  is  designed  as  a  companion  to  the  Author's  "Works  Manager's 
Handbook."    It  possesses  many  neiv  and  original  feat^ires,  and  contains,  like  its  predecessor, 
a  quantity  of  matter  not  originally  intended  for  publication,  but  collected  by  the  Author  for  his 
own  use  in  the  construction  of  a  great  variety  of  Modern  Engineering  Work. 

The  information  is  given  in  a  condensed  and  concise  form,  and  is  illustrated  by  upivards  of 
420  Engravings  ;  and  comprises  a  quantity  of  tabulated  matter  of  great  value  to  all  engaged  in 
designing,  constructing,  or  estimating  for  Engines,  Boilers,  and  other  Engineering 
Work. 

"  We  have  kept  it  at  hand  for  several  weeks,  referring  to  it  as  occasion  arose,  and  we  have  not  on 
a  single  occasion  consulted  its  pages  without  finding,  the  information  of  which  we  were  in  quest." — 
Atlie7ta'uin. 

"  A  thoroughly  good  practical  handbook,  which  no  engineer  can  go  through  without  learning  some- 
thing that  will  be  of  service  to  him." — Marine  Engineer. 

"  An  excellent  book  of  reference  for  engineers,  and  a  valuable  text-book  for  students  of  engineering." 
— Scotsman. 

"  This  valuable  manual  embodies  the  results  and  experience  of  the  leading  authorities  on  mechanical 
engineering." — Building  News. 

"  The  aiuhor  has  collected  together  a  surprising  quantity  of  rules  and  practical  data,  and  has  shown 
much  judgment  in  the  selections  he  has  made.  .  .  .  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  book  is  one  of  the 
most  useful  of  its  kind  published,  and  will  be  a  very  popular  compendium." — Engineer. 

"  A  mass  of  information,  set  down  in  simple  language,  and  in  such  a  form  that  it  can  be  easily 
referred  to  at  any  time.  The  matter  is  uniformly  good  and  well  chosen,  and  is  greatly  elucidated  by 
the  illustrations.  The  book  will  find  its  way  on  to  most  engineers'  shelves,  where  it  will  rank  as  one  of 
ihe  most  useful  books  of  reference." — Practical  Engineer. 

"Full  of  useful  information,  and  should  be  found  on  the  office  shelf  of  all  practical  engineers."— 
English  Mechanic. 


MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING,  &^c. 


3 


MR.  HUTTON'S  PRACTICAL  HANDBOOKS— continued. 


STEAM  BOILER  CONSTRUCTION* 

A  Practical  Handbook  for  Engineers,  Boiler-Makers,  and  Steam  Users.  Con- 
taining a  large  Collection  of  Rules  and  Data  relating  to  Recent  Practice  in  the 
Design,  Construction,  and  Working  of  all  kinds  of  Stationary,  Locomotive,  and 
Marine  Steam-Boilers.  By  Walter  S.  Hutton,  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineer, 
Author  of  "  The  Works  Manager's  Handbook,"  "  The  Practical  Engineer's 
Handbook,"  &c.  With  upwards  of  540  Illustrations.  Fourth  Edition,  carefully 
Revised,  and  Enlarged.    Medium  8vo,  over  680  pages,  cloth,  strongly  bound. 

[Just  Published.  18/- 

This  Work  is  issued  in  continuation  of  the  Series  of  Handbooks  written  by  the 
Author, viz : — "The  Works  Manager's  Handbook "a;z(i" The  Practical  Engineer's 
Handbook,"  ivhich  are  so  highly  appreciated  by  Engineers  for  the  practical  nature  of  their 
information ;  and  is  consequently  written  in  the  same  style  as  those  tvorhs. 

The  Author  believes  that  the  concentration,  in  a  convenient  form  for  easy  reference,  oj  such 
a  large  amount  of  thoroughly  practical  information  on  Steam-Boilers,  will  be  of  considerable 
service  to  those  for  whom  it  is  intended,  and  he  trusts  the  book  may  be  deemed  ivorthy  of  as 
favourable  a  reception  as  has  been  accorded  to  its  predecessors. 

"  One  of  the  best,  if  not  the  best,  books  on  boilers  that  has  ever  been  pubHshed.  The  information 
is  of  the  right  kind,  in  a  simple  and  accessible  form.  So  far  as  generation  is  concerned,  this  is, 
undoubtedly,  the  standard  book  on  steam  practice." — Electrical  Revieic 

"  Every  detail,  both  in  boiler  design  and  management,  is  clearly  laid  before  the  reader.  The 
volume  shows  that  boiler  construction  has  been  reduced  to  the  condition  of  one  of  the  most  exact 
sciences  ;  and  such  a  book  is  of  the  utmost  value  to  the  fin  de  sidcle  Engineer  and  Works  Manager." — 
Marine  Engineer.  ' 

"  There  has  long  been  room  for  a  modern  handbook  on  steam  boilers ;  there  is  not  that  room  now, 
because  Mr.  Hutton  has  filled  it.  It  is  a  thoroughly  practical  book  for  those  who  are  occupied  in  the 
construction,  design,  selection,  or  use  of  boilers." — Engineer. 

"The  book  is  of  so  important  and  comprehensive  a  character  that  it  must  find  its  way  into  the 
libraries  of  every  one  interested  in  boiler  using  or  boiler  manufacture  if  they  wish  to  be  thoroughly 
informed.   We  strongly  recommend  the  book  for  the  intrinsic  value  of  its  contents." — Machinery  Market. 


PRACTICAL  MECHANICS*  WORKSHOP  COMPANION. 

Comprising  a  great  variety  of  the  most  useful  Rules  and  Formula;  in  Mechanical 
Science,  with  numerous  Tables  of  Practical  Data  and  Calculated  Results  for  Facili- 
tating Mechanical  Operations.    By  William  Templeton,  Author  of  "The  Engi- 
neer's Practical  Assistant,"  &c.,  &c.  Eighteenth  Edition,  Revised,  Modernised,  and 
considerably  Enlarged  by  Walter  S.  Hutton,  C.E.,  Author  of  "The  Works 
Manager's  Handbook,"  "  The  Practical  Engineer's  Handbook,"  &c.    Fcap.  8vo, 
nearly  500  pp.,  with  8  Plates  and  upwards  of  250  Illustrative  Diagrams,  strongly 
bound  for  workshop  or  pocket  wear  and  tear    .       .       .       .       .       .  6/- 

"  In  its  modernised  form  Hutton's  'Templeton'  should  have  a  wide  sale,  for  it  contains  much 

valuable  information  which  the  mechanic  will  often  find  of  use,  and  not  a  few  tables  and  notes  which 

he  might  look  for  in  vain  in  other  works.   This  modernised  edition  will  be  appreciated  by  all  who  have 

learned  to  value  the  original  editions  of  '  Templeton.'  " — English  Mechanic. 

"  It  has  met  with  great  success  in  the  engineering  workshop,  as  we  can  testify  ;  and  there  are  a 

great  many  men  who,  in  a  great  measure,  owe  their  rise  in  life  to  this  little  book." — Building  News. 

"  This  familiar  text-book— well  known  to  all  mechanics  and  engineers — is  of  essential  service  to  the 

every-day  requirements  of  engineers,  millwrights,  and  the  various  trades  connected  with  engineering 

and  building.    The  new  modernised  edition  is  worth  its  weight  in  gold."— Building  Neivs.  (Second 

Notice.) 

"  This  well-known  and  largely-used  book  contains  information,  brought  up  to  date,  of  the  sort 
so  useful  to  the  foreman  and  draughtsman.  So  much  fresh  information  has  been  introduced  as  to 
constitute  it  practically  a  new  book.  It  will  be  largely  used  in  the  office  and  workshop." — Mechanical 
World. 

"  The  publishers  wisely  entrusted  the  task  of  revision  of  this  popular,  valuable,  and  useful  book  to 
Mr.  Hutton,  than  whom  a  more  competent  man  they  could  not  have  found." — Iron. 


ENGINEER'S  AND  MILLWRIGHTS  ASSISTANT. 

A  collection  of  Useful  Tables,  Rules,  and  Data.    By  William  Templeton. 

Eighth  Edition,  with  Additions.    i8mo,  cloth  2/6 

"  Occupies  a  foremost  place  among  books  of  this  kind.  A  more  suitable  present  to  an  apprentice 
to  any  of  the  mechanical  trades  could  not  possibly  be  made." — Building  News. 

"  A  deservedly  popular  work.   It  should  be  in  the  '  drawer '  of  every  mechamc."— English  Mechanic. 


4 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD        SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


THE  MECHANICAL  ENGINEER'S  REFERENCE  BOOK* 

For  Machine  and  Boiler  Construction.  In  Two  Parts.  Part  I.  General 
Engineering  Data.  Part  II.  Boiler  Construction.  With  51  Plates  and 
numerous  Illustrations.  By  Nelson  Foley,  M.I.N.  A.  Second  Edition,  Revised 
throughout  and  much  Enlarged.    Folio,  half-bound  .      Net    £3  3s. 

PART  I.  Measures. — Circumferences  and  Areas,  &c.,  Squares,  Cubes,  Fourth  Powers. — 
Square  and  Cube  Roots. — Surface  of  Tubes. — Reciprocals. — Logarithms. — Mensuration. — 
Specific  Gravities  and  Weights. — Work  and  Power. — Heat. — Combustion. — Expansion  and 
Contraction. — Expansion  of  Gases. — Steam. — Static  Forces. — Gravitation  and  Attraction. 
— Motion  and  Computation  of  Resulting  Forces. — Accumulated  Work. — Centre  and  Radius 
OF  Gyration. — Moment  of  Inertia. — Centre  of  Oscillation. — Electricity. — Strength  of 
Materials. — Elasticity. — Test  Sheets  of  Metals. — Friction. — Transmission  of  Power. — 
Flow  of  Liquids. — Flow  of  Gases. — Air  Pumps,  Surface  Condensers,  &c. — Speed  of  Steam- 
ships.— Propellers. — Cutting  Tools. — Flanges. — Copper  Sheets  and  Tubes. — Screws,  Nuts, 
Bolt  Heads,  &c,— Recipes  and  Miscellaneous  Matter.— With  DIAGRAMS  for  Valve-Gear, 
Belting  and  Ropes,  Discharge  and  Suction  Pipes,  Screw  Propellers  and  Copper  Pipes. 

PART  II.  Treating  of  Power  of  Boilers. — Useful  Ratios. — Notes  on  Construction. — 
Cylindrical  Boiler  Shells.— Circular  Furnaces.— Flat  Plates.— Stays.— Girders.— Screws. 
— Hydraulic  Tests. — Riveting. — Boiler  Setting,  Chimneys,  and  Mountings. — Fuels,  &c. — 
Examples  of  Boilers  and  Speeds  of  Steamships. — Nominal  and  Normal  Horse  Power. — With 
DIAGRAMS  for  all  Boiler  Calculations  and  Drawings  of  many  Varieties  of  Boilers. 

"  Mr.  Foley  is  well  fitted  to  compile  such  a  work.  The  diagrams  are  a  great  feature  of  the  work. 
It  may  be  stated  that  Mr.  Foley  has  produced  a  volume  which  will  undoubtedly  fulfil  the  desire  of  the 
author  and  become  indispensable  to  all  mechanical  engineers." — Marine  Engineer. 

"  We  have  carefully  examined  this  work,  and  pronounce  it  a  most  excellent  reference  book  for  the 
use  of  marine  engineers."- Joiima/  of  American  Society  of  Naval  Engineers. 

TEXT^BOOK  ON  THE  STEAM  ENGINE. 

With  a  Supplement  on  Gas  Engines,  and  Part  II.  on  Heat  Engines.  By 
T.  M.  GoODEVE,  M.A.,  Barrister-at-Law,  Professor  of  Mechanics  at  the  Royal 
College  of  Science,  London;  Author  of  "  The  Principles  of  Mechanics,"  "The 
Elements  of  Mechanism,"  &c.  Fourteenth  Edition.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  6/- 
"  Professor  Goodeve  has  given  us  a  treatise  on  the  steam  engine,  which  will  bear  comparison  with 
anything  written  by  Huxley  or  Maxwell,  and  we  can  award  it  no  higher  ■pra.is^.'"— Engineer. 

"  Mr.  Goodeve's  text-book  is  a  work  of  which  every  young  engineer  should  possess  himself."— 
Mining  Journal. 

ON  GAS  ENGINES* 

With   Appendix  describing  a  Recent  Engine  with  Tube  Igniter.    By  T.  M. 

Goodeve,  M. A.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  2/6 

"  Like  all  Mr.  Goodeve's  writings,  the  present  is  no  exception  in  point  of  general  excellence.  It  is 
a  valuable  little  volume." — Mechanical  World. 


GAS  AND  OIL  ENGINE  MANAGEMENT. 

A  Practical  Guide  for  Users  and  Attendants.  Being  Notes  on  Selection, 
Construction  and  Working.  By  M.  Powis  Bale,  M.I.M.E.  Crown  8vo,' 
cloth  [just  Published.    Net  3/6 

THE  GAS  ENGINE  HANDBOOK. 

A  Manual  of  Useful  Information  for  the  Designer  and  the  Engineer.  By 
E.  W.  Roberts,  M.E.  With  40  full-page  Engravings.  Small  Fcap.  8vo, 
leather  3/6 

A  TREATISE  ON  STEAM  BOILERS. 

Their  Strength,  Construction,  and  Economical  Working.    By  R.  Wilson,  C.E. 

Fifth  Edition.    lamo,  cloth  ' 

"The  best  treatise  that  has  ever  been  published  on  steam  hoWev^."— Engineer. 

THE  MECHANICAL  ENGINEER'S  COMPANION. 

Of  Areas,  Circumferences,  Decimal  Equivalents,  in  inches  and  ieet,  millimetres 
squares,  cubes,  roots,  &c. ;  Strength  of  Bolts,  Weight  of  Iron,  &c  •  Weights' 
Measures,  and  other  Data.  Also  Practical  Rules  for  Engine  Proportions  Bv 
R.  Edwards,  M.Inst. C.E.    Fcap.  8vo,  cloth  ......  3/6 

y^Jiuo^u^e^l)'-^^^  '"^"^  ^^"^^'^^^  ^^'^        "memoranda,  generally 

i„f^'3l''''  \'-,F?^f  T  '°  ^^"'^y  9^"^  companion,'  giving,  in  a  succinct  form,  a  variety  of 

information  likely  to  be  required  by  mechanical  engineers  in  their  everyday  office  ^wovk.'-Nat{|ye. 


MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING,  ^c. 


5 


A  HANDBOOK  ON  THE  STEAM  ENGINE, 

With  especial  Reference  to  Small  and  Medium-sized  Engines.  For  the  Use  of 
Engine  Makers,  Mechanical  Draughtsmen,  Engineering  Students,  and  Users  of 
Steam  Power.  By  Herman  Haeder,  C.E.  Translated  from  the  German  with 
Additions  and  Alterations,  by  H.  H.  P.  Powles,  A.M.I.C.E.,  M.I.M.E.  Third 
Edition,  Revised.   With  nearly  1,100  Illustrations.   Crown  8vo,  cloth    Net  7/6 

"  A  perfect  encyclopaedia  of  the  steam  engine  and  its  details,  and  one  which  must  t-ake  a  permanent 
place  in  English  drawing-offices  and  workshops." — A  Foreman  Pattern-maker. 

"  This  is  an  excellent  book,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  who  are  interested  in  the  construction 
and  design  of  medium-sized  stationary  engines.  ...  A  careful  study  of  its  contents  and  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  sections  leads  to  the  conclusion  that  there  is  probably  no  other  book  like  it  in  this  country. 
The  volume  aims  at  showing  the  results  of  practical  experience,  and  it  certainly  may  claim  a  complete 
achievement  of  this  idea." — Nature. 

"There  can  be  no  question  as  to  its  value.  We  cordially  commend  it  to  all  concerned  in  the 
design  and  construction  of  the  steam  engine." — Mechanical  World. 

BOILER  AND  FACTORY  CHIMNEYS. 

Their  Draught-Power  and  Stability.    With  a  Chapter  on  Lightning  Conductors, 
By  Robert  Wilson,  A.I.C.E.,  Author  of  "A  Treatise  on  Steam  Boilers,"  &c. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth        ...........  3/6 

"A  valuable  contribution  to  the  literature  of  scientific  building." — The  Builder. 

BOILER^MAKER'S  READY  RECKONER  &  ASSISTANT. 

With  Examples  of  Practical  Geometry  and  Templating,  for  the  Use  of  Platers, 
Smiths,  and  Riveters.    By  John  Courtney,  Edited  by  D.  K.  Clark,  M.I. C.E. 
Fourth  Edition,  480  pp.,  with  140  Illustrations.    Fcap.  8vo,  half-bound  .  7/- 
"  No  workman  or  apprentice  should  be  without  this  book." — Iron  Trade^  Circular. 

REFRIGERATION,  COLD  STORAGE,  &  ICE^MAKING. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Art  and  Science  of  Refrigeration.  By  A.  J.  Wallis- 
Tayler,  A.M.Inst.C.E.,  Author  of  "  Refrigerating  and  Ice-making  Machinery." 
600  pp.    With  360  Illustrations.    Medium  8vo,  cloth       .       .       .       Net  ASj^ 

"The  author  has  to  be  congratulated  on  the  completion  and  production  of  such  an  important 
work,  and  it  cannot  fail  to  have  a  large  body  of  readers,  for  it  leaves  out  nothing  that  would  in  any 
way  be  of  value  to  those  interested  in  the  subject." — Steamship. 

"  No'  one  whose  duty  it  is  to  handle  the  mammoth  preserving  installations  of  these  latter  days  can 
afford  to  be  without  this  valuable  book." — Glasgow  Herald. 

THE  POCKET  BOOK  OF  REFRIGERATION  AND  ICE- 

MAKING  FOR  1903. 

Edited  by  A.  J.  Wallis-Tayler,  A.M.Inst.C.E,  Author  of  "  Refrigerating  and 
Ice-making  Machinery,"  &c.    Small  crown  8vo,  cloth. 

[Just  Published.    Net  2/6 

REFRIGERATING  &  ICE^MAKING  MACHINERY* 

A  Descriptive  Treatise  for  the  Use  of  Persons  Employing  Refrigerating  and  Ice- 
Making  Installations,  and  others.     By  A.  J.  Wallis-Tayler,  A.M.Inst.C.E. 

Third  Edition,  Enlarged.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  7/6 

"  Practical,  explicit  and  profusely  illustrated." — Glasgow  Herald. 

"  We  recommend  the  book,  which  gives  the  cost  of  various  systems  and  illustrations  showing 
details  of  parts  of  machinery  and  general  arrangements  of  complete  in&taWations."— Builder. 

"  May  be  recommended  as  a  useful  description  of  the  machinery,  the  processes,  and  of  the 
facts,  figures,  and  tabulated  physics  of  refrigerating.  It  is  one  of  the  best  compilations  on  the 
subject." — Engineer. 

TEA  MACHINERY  AND  TEA  FACTORIES. 

A  Descriptive  Treatise  on  the  Mechanical  Appliances  required  in  the  Cultivation 
of  the  Tea  Plant  and  the  Preparation  of  Tea  for  the  Market.  By  A.  J.  Wallis- 
Tayler,  A.M.Inst.C.E.    Medium  8vo,  468  pp.    With  218  Illustrations. 

Net  25/- 

"  When  tea  planting  was  first  introduced  into  the  British  possessions,  little,  if  any,  machinery  was 
employed,  but  now  its  use  is  almost  universal.  This  volume  contains  a  very  full  account  of  the 
machinery  necessary  for  the  proper  outfit  of  a  factory,  and  also  a  description  of  the  processes  best 
carried  out  by  this  machinery."— /oMrnai  Society  of  Arts. 


6 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


ENGINEERING  ESTIMATES,  COSTS,  &  ACCOUNTS. 

A  Guide  to  Commercial  Engineering.  With  numerous  Examples  of  Estimates 
and  Costs  of  Millwright  Work,  Miscellaneous  Productions,  Steam  Engines  and 
Steam  Boilers  ;  and  a  Section  on  the  Preparation  of  Costs  Accounts.  By  A 
General  Manager.  Second  Edition.  8vo,  cloth  ....  12/- 
"  This  is  an  excellent  and  very  useful  book,  covering  subject-matter  in  constant  requisition  in 

every  factory  and  workshop.    .    .    .    The  book  is  invaluable,  not  only  to  the  young  engineer,  but  also 

to  the  estimate  department  of  every  works." — Builder. 

"We  accord  the  work  unqualified  praise.    The  information  is  given  in  a  plain,  straightforward 

manner,  and  bears  throughout  evidence  of  the  intimate  practical  acquaintance  of  the  author  with 

every  phase  of  commercial  engineering."— A/ec/ia;uc^(/  World. 

AN    ELEMENTARY   TREATISE   ON  HOISTING 

MACHINERY, 

Including  the  Elements  of  Crane  Construction  and  descriptions  of  the  various 
Types  of  Cranes  in  use.  By  Joseph  Horner,  A.M.I.M.E.,  Author  of  "  Pattern 
Making"  and  other  works.    Illustrated  with  215  Engravings,    8vo,  cloth. 

IJustPuUhhed.    Net  7/6 

PATTERN  MAKING, 

A  Practical  Treatise,  embracing  the  Main  Types  of  Engineering  Construction, 
and  including  Gearing,  Engine  Work,  Sheaves  and  Pulleys,  Pipes  and  Columns, 
Screws,  Machine  Parts,  Pumps  and  Cocks,  the  Moulding  of  Patterns  in  Loam 
and  Greensand,  Estimating  the  Weight  of  Castings,  &c.  By  Joseph  G.  Horner, 
A.M.I.M.E.    Third  Edition,  Enlarged.    With  486  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo, 

cloth  Net  716 

"A  well-written  technical  guide,  evidently  written  by  a  man  who  understands  and  has  practised 
what  he  has  written  about.  .  .  .  We  cordially  recommend  it  to  engineering  students,  young 
journeymen,  and  others  desirous  of  being  initiated  into  the  mysteries  of  pattern-making."— L'lu/rfe;-. 

"  An  excellent  vade  mecum  for  the  apprentice  who  desires  to  become  master  of  his  trade." — English 
Mechanic. 

PLATING  AND  BOILER  MAKING. 

A  Practical  Handbook  for  Workshop  Operations.  By  Joseph  G.  Horner, 
A.M.I.M.E.    380  pp.,  with  338  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  7/6 

"  This  work  is  characterised  by  that  evidence  of  close  acquaintance  with  workshop  methods  which 
will  render  the  book  exceedingly  acceptable  to  the  practical  hand.  We  have  no  hesitation  in  com- 
mending the  work  as  a  serviceable  and  practical  handbook  on  a  subject  which  has  not  hitherto  received 
much  attention  from  those  qualified  to  deal  with  it  in  a  satisfactory  manner." — Mechanical  World. 

TOOTHED  GEARING, 

A  Practical  Handbook  for  Offices  and  Workshops.    By  J.  Horner,  A.M.I.M.E. 
With  184  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth        ......  6/- 

"  We  give  the  book  our  unqualified  praise  for  its  thoroughness  of  treatment  and  recommend  it  to 
all  interested  as  the  most  practical  book  on  the  subject  yet  written." — Mechanical  World. 

MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING  TERMS 

(Lockvvood's  Dictionary  of).    Embracing  those  current  in  the  Drawing  Office, 

Pattern  Shop,  Foundry,  Fitting,  Turning,  Smiths',  and  Boiler  Shops,  &c.,  &c. 

Comprising  upwards  of  6,000  Definitions.    Edited  by  J.  G.  Horner,  A.M.I.M.E. 

Third  Edition,  Revised,  with  Additions.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  .  Net  7/6 
"  Jiist  the  sort  of  handy  dictionary  required  by  the  various  trades  engaged  in  mechanical  engineer- 
ing. The  practical  engineering  pupil  will  find  the  book  of  great  value  in  his  studies,  and  every  foreman 
engineer  and  mechanic  should  have  a  copy." — Building  News. 

MOTOR  CARS  OR  POWER  CARRIAGES  FOR  COMMON 
ROADS. 

By  A.  J.  Wallis-Tayler,  A.M. Inst. C.E.    Author  of  "  Modern  Cycles,"  &c. 

212  pp.,  with  76  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  4/6 

"  The  book  is  clearly  expressed  throughout,  and  is  just  the  sort  of  work  that  an  engineer, 
thinking  of  turning  his  attention  to  motor-carriage  work,  would  do  well  to  read  as  a  preliminary  to 
starting  opcxntions."— Engineering. 

AERIAL  OR  WIRE^ROPE  TRAMWAYS. 

Their  Construction  and  Management.   By  A.  J.  Wallis-Tavler,  A. M.Inst. C.E. 

With  81  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  7/6 

''This  is  in  its  way  an  excellent  volume.  Without  going  into  the  minutije  of  the  subject,  it  yet 
lays  before  its  readers  a  very  good  exposition  of  the  various  systems  of  rope  transmission  in  use,  and 
gives  as  well  not  a  little  valuable  information  about  their  working,  repair  and  management.  We  can 
safely  recounnend  it  as  a  useful  general  treatise  on  the  subject."— T/ze  Engineer. 


MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING,  &'c: 


7 


AERIAL  NAVIGATION* 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Construction  of  Dirigible  Balloons,  Aerostats, 
Aeroplanes,  and  Aeromotors.  By  Frederick  Walker,  C.E.,  Associate  Member 
of  the  Aeronautic  Institute.    With  104  Illustrations.    Large  Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

Net  lie 

STONE' WORKING  MACHINERY. 

A  Manual  dealing  with  the  Rapid  and  Economical  Conversion  of  Stone.  With 
,      Hints  on  the  Arrangement  and  Management  of  Stone  Works.    By  M.  Powis 
Bale,  M.I.M.E.    Second  Edition,  Enlarged.    Crown  8vo,  cloth    .       .  9/- 
"The  book  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  mason  or  student  of  stonework."— CoWery  Guardian. 
"  A  capital  handbook  for  all  who  manipulate  stone  for  building  or  ornamental  purposes."— 
Machinery  Market. 

PUMPS  AND  PUMPING. 

A  Handbook  for  Pump  Users.  Being  Notes  on  Selection,  Construction,  and 
Management.     By  M.   Powis   Bale,   M.I.M.E.      Fourth   Edition.  Crown 

8vo,  cloth  3/6 

"  The  matter  is  set  forth  as  concisely  as  possible.  In  fact,  condensation  rather  than  diffuseness 
has  been  the  author's  aim  throughout;  yet  he  does  not  seem  to  have  omitted  anything  likely  to  be  of 
use."— Journal  0/  Gas  Lighting.       "Thoroughly  practical  and  clearly  written." — Glasgow  Herald. 

MILLING  MACHINES  AND  PROCESSES. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Shaping  Metals  by  Rotary  Cutters.    Including  Informa- 
tion on  Making  and  Grinding  the  Cutters.    By  Paul  N.  Hasluck,  Author  of 
"  Lathe  Work."  With  upwards  of  300  Engravings.  Large  Crown  8vo,  cloth  12/6 
"  A  new  departure  in  engineering  literature.  .  .  .  We  can  recommend  this  work  to  all  interested 
in  milling  machines ;  it  is  what  it  professes  to  be — a  practical  tresitise."— Engineer. 

"A  capital  and  reliable  book  which  will  no  doubt  be  of  considerable  service  both  to  those  who  are 
already  acquainted  with  the  process  as  well  as  to  those  who  contemplate  its'  adoption." — Industries. 

LATHE^WORK. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Tools,  Appliances,  and  Processes  employed  in  the 
Art  of  Turning.  By  Paul  N.  Hasluck.  Seventh  Edition.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  5/- 
"  Written  by  a  man  who  knows  not  only  how  work  ought  to  be  done,  but  who  also  knows  how  to 

do  it,  and  how  to  convey  his  knowledge  to  others.   To  all  turners  this  book  would  be  valuable."— 

Engineering. 

"We  can  safely  recommend  the  work  to  young  engineers.  To  the  amateur  it  will  simply  be 
invaluable.    To  the  student  it  will  convey  a  great  deal  of  useful  information." — Engineer. 

SCREW  THREADS. 

And  Methods  of  Producing  Them.     With  numerous  Tables  and  complete 
Directions  for  using  Screw-Cutting  Lathes,    By  Paul  N.  Hasluck,  Author  of 
"  Lathe- Work,"  &c.    Fifth  Edition.    Waistcoat-pocket  size  .       .       .  1/6 
"Full  of  useful  infornjation,  hints,  and  practical  criticism.  Taps,  dies,  and  screwing  tools  generally 
are  illustrated  and  their  action  desciihed."—M echanical  World. 

"It  is  a  complete  compendium  of  all  the  details  of  the  screw-cutting  lathe  ;  in  fact  a  inultum-in- 
parvo  on  all  the  subjects  it  treats  upon." — Carpenter  and  Builder. 

TABLES    AND    MEMORANDA    FOR  ENGINEERS, 

MECHANICS,  ARCHITECTS,  BUILDERS,  &c. 

Selected  and  Arranged  by  Francis  Smith.  Sixth  Edition,  Revised,  including 
Electrical  Tables,  Formula,  and  Memoranda.     Waistcoat-pocket  size, 

limp  leather  1/6 

"It  would,  perhaps,  be  as  difficult  to  make  a  small  pocket-book  selection  of  notes  and  formulae  to 
suit  ALL  engineers  as  it  would  be  to  make  a  universal  medicine ;  but  Mr.  Smith's  waistcoat-pocket 
collection  may  be  looked  upon  as  a  successful  attempt." — Engineer. 

"  The  best  example  we  have  ever  seen  of  270  pages  of  useful  matter  packed  into  the  dimensions  of 
a  card  case." — Building  News.         "  A  veritable  pocket  treasury  of  knowledge." — Iron. 

POCKET  GLOSSARY  OF  TECHNICAL  TERMS* 

English-French,  French-English;  with  Tables  suitable  for  the  Architectural, 
Engineering,  Manufacturing,   and   Nautical   Professions.      By   John  James 
Fletcher.   Third  Edition.   200  pp.  Waistcoat-pocket  size,  limp  leather  1/6 
"  It  is  a  very  great  advantage  for  readers  and  correspondents  in  France  and  England  to  have  so 
large  a  number  of  the  words  relating  to  engineering  and  manufactures  collected  in  a  liliputian  volume. 
The  little  book  will  be  useful  both  to  students  and  travellers." — Architect. 

"  The  glossary  of  terms  is  very  complete,  and  many  of  the  Tables  are  new  and  well-arranged.  We 
cordially  commend  the  book." — Mechanical  World. 


8 


THE  ENGINEER*S  YEAR-BOOK  FOR  1903* 

Comprising  Formulae,  Rules,  Tables,  Data  and  Memoranda  in  Civil,  Mechanical, 
Electrical,  Marine  and  Mine  Engineering.    By  H.  R.  Kempe,  A.M.Inst.C.E., 
M.I.E.E.,  Principal  Technical  Officer,  Engineer-in-Chief's  Office,  General  Post 
Office,  London,  Author  of  "  A  Handbook  of  Electrical  Testing,"  "  The  Electrical 
Engineer's  Pocket-Book,"  &c.    With  i.ooo  Illustrations,  specially  Engraved  for 
the  work.    Crown  8vo,  900  pp.,  leather        .       .       .         [Just  Published.  8/- 
"  Kempe's  Year-Book  really  requires  no  commendation.    Its  sphere  of  usefulness  is  widely  known, 
and  it  is  used  by  engineers  the  world  over."— The  Engineer.  • 
"The  volume  is  distinctly  in  advance  of  most  similar  publications  in  this  country."— Engineeying. 
"This  valuable  and  well-designed  book  of  reference  meets  the  demands  of  all  descriptions  of 
engineers." — Saturday  Review. 

"Teems  with  up-to-date  information  in  every  branch  of  engineering  and  construction."— jBiu/rfrng 
News. 

"The  needs  of  the  engineering  profession  could  hardly  be  supplied  in  a  more  admirable,  complete 
and  convenient  form.  To  say  that  it  more  than  sustains  all  comparisons  is  praise  of  the  highest  sort, 
and  that  may  justly  be  said  of  it."— Mining  Journal. 

"  There  is  certainly  room  for  the  new  comer,  which  supplies  explanations  and  directions,  as  well 
as  formulae  and  tables.  It  deserves  to  become  one  of  the  most  successful  of  the  technical  annuals." — 
Architect. 

"  Brings  together  with  great  skill  all  the  technical  information  which  an  engineer  has  to  use  day  by 
day.    It  is  in  every  way  admirably  equipped,  and  is  sure  to  prove  successful."— 6"cois;;mn. 

"  The  up-to-dateness  of  Mr.  Kempe's  compilation  is  a  quality  that  will  not  be  lost  on  the  busy 
people  for  whom  the  work  is  intended."— G/asg-otc  Herald, 

THE  PORTABLE  ENGINE. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  its  Construction  and  Management.  For  the  Use 
of  Owners  and  Users  of  Steam  Engines  generally.     By  William  Dyson 

Wansbrough.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  3/6 

"This  is  a  work  of  value  to  those  who  use  steam  machinery.  .  .  .  Should  be  read  by  every  one 
who  has  a  steam  engine,  on  a  farm  or  elsewhere." — Mark  Lane  Express. 

"  We  cordially  commend  this  work  to  buyers  and  owners  of  steam  engines,  and  to  those  who  have 
to  do  with  their  construction  or  use."— Timber  Trades  Journal. 

"  Such  a  general  knowledge  of  the  steam-engine  as  Mr.  Wansbrough  furnishes  to  the  reader  should 
be  acquired  by  all  intelligent  owners  and  others  who  use  the  steam  engine." — Building  News. 

"  An  excellent  text-book  of  this  useful  form  of  engine.  The  '  Hints  to  Purchasers '  contain  a  good 
deal  of  common-sense  and  practical  wisdom." — English  Mechanic. 

IRON  AND  STEEL, 

A  work  for  the  Forge,  Foundry,  Factory,  and  Office.  Containing  ready,  useful, 
and  trustworthy  Information  for  Ironmasters  and  their  Stock-takers  ;  Managers 
of  Bar,  Rail,  Plate,  and  Sheet  Rolling  Mills ;  Iron  and  Metal  Founders  ;  Iron 
Ship  and  Bridge  Builders;  Mechanical,  Mining,  and  Consulting  Engineers; 
Architects,  Contractors,  Builders,  &c.  By  Charles  Hoare,  Author  of  "The 
Slide  Rule,"  &c.    Ninth  Edition.    32mo,  leather  6/- 

"  For  comprehensiveness  the  book  has  not  its  equal." — Iron. 

"  One  of  the  best  of  the  pocket  books." — English  Mechanic. 

FIRES,  FIRE^ENGINES,  AND  FIRE-BRIGADES* 

With  a  History  of  Fire-Engines,  their  Construction,  Use,  and  Management ; 
Foreign  Fire  Systems  ;  Hints  on  Fire-Brigades,  &c.  By  C.  F.  T.  Young,  C.E. 
8vo,  cloth  24/- 

"  To  such  of  our  readers  as  are  interested  in  the  subject  of  fires  and  fire  apparatus,  we  can  most 
heartily  commend  this  book." — Engineering. 

CONDENSED  MECHANICS. 

A  Selection  of  Formulae,  Rules,  Tables,  and  Data  for  the  Use  of  Engineering 
Students,  &c.    By  W.  G.  C.  Hughes,  A. M.I. C.E.    Crown  8vo,  cloth     .  2/6 
"  The  book  is  well  fitted  for  those  who  are  preparing  for  examination  and  wish  to  refresh  their 
knowledge  by  going  through  their  formulae  again." — Marine  Engineer. 

THE  SAFE  USE  OF  STEAM. 

Containing  Rules  for  Unprofessional  Steam-users.    By  an  Engineer.  Seventh 

Edition.    Sewed  6£|. 

"  If  steam-users  would  but  learn  this  little  book  by  heart,  boiler  explosions  would  become  sensa- 
tions by  their  rarity."— £Mg'/ts/i  Mechanic. 

THE  CARE  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  STATIONARY 

STEAM  ENGINES. 

A  Practical  Handbook  for  Men-in- charge.    By  C.  Hurst.    Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

Net  1/- 


MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING,  &=c. 


9 


THE  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINE. 

The  Autobiography  of  an  Old  Locomotive  Engine.  By  Robert  Weatherburn, 
M.I.M.E.  With  Illustrations  and  Portraits  of  George  and  Robert  Stephen- 
son.   Crown  8vo,  cloth  Net  2/6 

Summary  of  Contents.  Prologue. — Cylinders.— Motions. — Connecting  Rods. — Frames. — 
Wheels.— Pumps,  Clacks,  &c.— Injectors.— Boilers.— Smoke  Box.— Chimney.— Weather  Board 
AND  Awning.— Internal  Dissensions.— Engine  Drivers,  &c. 

"  It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  anything  more  ingeniously  planned,  more  cleverly  worked  out, 
and  more  charmingly  written.  Readers,  whether  young  or  old,  of  a  mechanical  turn,  cannot  fail  to 
find  the  volume  most  enjoyable  as  well  as  most  instructive."— G/rtsg-ozc  Herald. 

THE  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINE  &  ITS  DEVELOPMENT. 

A  Popular  Treatise  on  the  Gradual  Improvements  made  in  Railway  Engines 
between  1803  and  1903.  By  Clement  E.  Stretton,  C.E.  Sixth  Edition, 
Revised  and  Enlarged.    With  130  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

IJxist  Published.    Net  4/6 

"  Students  of  railway  history  and  all  who  are  interested  in  the  evolution  of  the  modern  locomotive 
will  find  much  to  attract  and  entertain  in  this  volume." — The  Times. 

LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINE  DRIVING. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Engineers  in  Charge  of  Locomotive  Engines.  By 
Michael  Reynolds,  formerly  Locomotive  Inspector,  L.  B.  and  S.  C.  R.  Eleventh 
Edition.    Including  a  Key  to  the  Locomotive  Engine.    Cr,  8vo,  cloth.  4/6 
"  Mr.  Reynolds  has  supplied  a  want,  and  has  supplied  it  well.    We  can  confidently  recommend  the 
book  not  only  to  the  practical  driver,  but  to  everyone  who  takes  an  interest  in  the  performance  of 
locomotive  engines." — The  Engineer. 

"  Mr.  Reynolds  has  opened  a  new  chapter  in  the  literature  of  the  day.  /This  admirable  practical 
treatise,  of  the  practical  utility  of  which  we  have  to  speak  in  terms  of  warm  commendation." — A  thencEuin. 

THE  MODEL  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINEER, 

Fireman,  and  Engine-Boy.    Comprising  a  Historical  Notice  of  the  Pioneer 
Locomotive  Engines  and  their  Inventors.    By  Michael  Reynolds.  Second 
Edition,  with  Revised  Appendix.    Crown  8vo,  cloth        ....  4/6 
"We  should  be  glad  to  see  this  book  in  the  possession  of  everyone  in  the  kingdom  who  has  ever 
laid,  or  is  to  lay,  hands  on  a  locomotive  engine." — Iron. 

CONTINUOUS  RAILWAY  BRAKES. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  several  Systems  in  Use  in  the  United  Kingdom : 
their  Construction  and  Performance.   By  Michael  Reynolds.   8vo,  cloth  9/- 
"  A  popular  explanation  of  the  different  brakes.    It  will  be  of  great  assistance  in  forming  public 
opinion,  and  will  be  studied  with  benefit  by  those  who  take  an  interest  in  the  brake." — English  Mechanic. 

STATIONARY  ENGINE  DRIVING. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Engineers  in  Charge  of  Stationary  Engines.  By 
Michael  Reynolds.  Sixth  Edition.  "With  Plates  and  Woodcuts.  Crown 
Svo,  cloth  4/6 

"  The  author's  advice  on  the  various  points  treated  is  clear  and  practical." — Engifieering. 

"  Our  author  leaves  no  stone  unturned.  He  is  determined  that  his  readers  shall  not  only  know 
something  about  the  stationary  engine,  but  all  about  it." — Engineer. 

ENGINE^DRIVING  LIFE. 

Stirring  Adventures  and  Incidents  in  the  Lives  of  Locomotive  Engine-Drivers. 
By  Michael  Reynolds.    Third  Edition.    Crown  Svo,  cloth  .       .       .  1/6 
"  From  first  to  last  perfectly  fascinating.  Wilkie  Collins's  most  thrilling  conceptions  are  thrown  into 
the  shade  by  true  incidents,  endless  in  their  variety,  related  in  every  page." — North  British  Mail. 

THE  ENGINEMAN*S  POCKET  COMPANION, 

And  Practical  Educator  for  Enginemen,  Boiler  Attendants,  and  Mechanics. 
By  Michael  Reynolds.  With  Forty-five  Illustrations  and  numerous  Diagrams. 
Fourth  Edition,  Revised.    Royal  i8mo,  strongly  bound  for  pocket  wear   .  3/6 
"  A  most  meritorious  work,  giving  in  a  succinct  and  practical  form  all  the  information  an  engine- 
minder  desirous  of  mastering  the  scientific  prihciples  of  his  daily  calhng  would  require." — The  Miller. 


lO 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD        SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


CIVIL  ENGINEERING,  SURVEYING,  ETC. 


LIGHT   RAILWAYS   FOR   THE   UNITED  KINGDOM, 
INDIA,  AND  THE  COLONIES. 

A  Practical  Handbook  setting  forth  the  Principles  on  which  Light  Railways 
should  be  Constructed,  Worked,  and  Financed ;  and  detailing  the  cost  of 
Construction,  Equipment,  Revenue  and  Working  Expenses.  By  J.  C.  Mackay, 
F.G.S.,  A.M. Inst. C.E.  Illustrated  with  Plates  and  Diagrams.  8vo,  cloth  15/- 
"  Mr.  Mackay's  volume  is  clearly  and  concisely  written,  admirably  arranged,  and  freely  illustrated. 

The  book  is  exactly  what  has  been  long  wanted.    We  recommend  it  to  all  interested  in  the  subject. 

It  is  sure  to  have  a  wide  sale." — Railway  Neti>s. 

TUNNELLING. 

A  Practical  Treatise.  By  C.  Prelini.  C.E.,  with  Additions  by  C.  S.  Hill,  C.E. 
With  150  Diagrams  and  Illustrations.    Royal  8vo,  cloth       .        .       Net  16/- 

PRACTICAL  TUNNELLING. 

Explaining  in  detail  Setting-out  the  Works,  Shaft-sinking,  and  Heading-driving, 
Ranging  the  Lines  and  Levelling  underground,  Sub-Excavating,  Timbering  and 
the  Construction  of  the  Brickwork  of  Tunnels.  By  F.  W.  Simms,  M.Inst. C.E. 
Fourth  Edition,  Revised  and  Further  Extended,  including  the  most  Recent 
(1895)  Examples  of  Sub-aqueous  and  other  Tunnels  by  D.  Kinnear  Clark, 
M.Inst. C.E.    With  34  Folding  Plates.    Imperial  8vo,  cloth  .  £2  2s. 

"The  present  (1896)  edition  has  been  brought  right  up  to  date,  and  is  thus  rendered  a  work  to 
which  civil  engineers  generally  should  have  ready  access,  and  to  which  engineers  who  have  con- 
struction work  can  hardly  afford  to  be  without,  but  which  to  the  younger  members  of  the  profession 
is  invaluable,  as  from  its  pages  they  can  learn  the  state  to  which  the  science  of  tunnelling  has 
attained." — Raihvay  Neius. 

THE  WATER   SUPPLY   OF  TOWNS,  and  THE  CON^ 

STRUCTION  OF  WATER-WORKS. 

A  Practical  Treatise  for  the  Use  of  Engineers  and  Students  of  Engineering.  By 
W.  K.  BwRTON,  A.M.Inst.C.E.,  Consulting  Engineer  to  the  Tokyo  Water- 
Works.    Second  Edition,  Revised  and  Extended.    With  numerous  Plates  and 
Illustrations.    Super-royal  8vo,  buckram        ....        .       .  25/- 

I.  Introductory.— II.  Different  Qualities  j  chinery.— XVII.  Flow  of  Water  in  Conduits 
OF  Water. — III.  Quantity  of  Water  to  be  — Pipes  and  Open  Channels. — XVIII.  Distri- 
Provided. — IV.  On  Ascertaining  whether  a  bution  Systems. — XIX.  Special  Provisions 
Proposed  Source  of  Supply  is  Sufficient.  !  for  the  Extinction  of  Fire. — XX.  Pipes  for 
— V.  On  Estimating  the  Storage  Capacity   ;   Waterworks. — XXI.   Prevention  of  Waste 

REQUIRED    TO    KK    PROVIDED. — VI.    ClASSIFICA-     \     OF  WaTER. — XXII.  VARIOUS   APPLIANCES  USED 

TiON  OF  Waterworks. — VII.  Impounding  Re-   !   in  Connection  with  Waterworks. 

SERVoiRS.  —  VIII.   Earthwork   Dams.  —  IX.  i   

Masonry   Dams. — X.    The    Purification    of       .  j    r,    r,         t,^tixt  ivttt  xtt:-      o  c- 

Water.-XI.  Settling  Reservoirs.-XII.Sand  S  Appendix  I.  By  Prof.  JOHN  MILNE,  F.R.S. 
FiLTRATiON.-XIII.  Purification  of  Water  -Considerations  concerning  the  Prob- 
BY  Action  of  Iron,  Softening  of  Water  by  ^'^^^  Effects  of  Earthquakes  on  Water- 
Action  of  Lime,  Natural  Filtration.-XI V.  I  ^^o-^"^^'  I,"^  Special  Precautions  to 
Service  or  Clean  Water  Reservoirs-  1  "^^"^^^  Earthquake  Countri-es. 
Water  Towers— Stand  Pipes.— XV.  The  Con-  Appendix  II.  By  JOHN  DE  RIJKE,  C.E.— 
t-JECTiON  OF  Settling  Reservoirs,  Filter  Beds  On  Sand  Dunes  and  Dune  Sand  as  a 
and  Service  Reservoirs.— XVI.  Pumping  Ma-   :      Source  of  Water  Supply. 

"  The  chapter  upon  filtration  of  water  is  very  complete,  and  the  details  of  construction  well  illus- 
trated. .  .  .  The  work  should  be  specially  valuable  to  civil  engineers  engaged  in  work  in  Japan, 
but  the  interest  is  by  no  means  confined  to  that  locality."— Eng-weer. 

"  We  congratulate  the  author  upon  the  practical  commonsense  shown  in  the  preparation  of  this 
work.  .  .  .  The  plates  and  diagrams  have  evidently  been  prepared  with  great  care,  and  cannot 
fail  to  be  of  great  assistance  to  the  student." — Builder. 

RURAL  WATER  SUPPLY* 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Supply  of  Water  and  Construction  of  Waterworks 

for  small  Country  Districts.    By  Allan  Greenvvell,  A.M.I.C.E.,  and  W.  T. 

CuRRv,  A.M.I.C.E.,  F.G.S.    With  Illustrations.     Second  Edition,  Revised. 

Crown  8vo,  cloth  5/- 

"  We  conscientiously  recommend  it  as  a  very  useful  book  for  those  concerned  in  obtaining  water 
^.'"-^u  ^'stricts,  giving  a  great  deal  of  practical  information  in  a  small  compas?.:'— Builder. 

.    '  r    ,t       ^^^^^^^^^  ^^'"^^'^^"^  '^■^^^^^  .       .  . 

It  IS  full  of  details  on  points  which  are  continually  before  waterworks  engineers."— Nature. 


CIVIL  ENGINEERING,  SURVEYING,  «5r-v. 


II 


THE  WATER  SUPPLY  OF  CITIES  AND  TOWNS^ 

By  William  Humber,  A.-M.Inst.C.E.,  and  M.Inst.M.E.,  Author  of  "Cast  and 
Wrought  Iron  Bridge  Construction,"  &c.,  &c.    Illustrated  with  50  Double  Plates, 
1  Single  Plate,  Coloured  Frontispiece,  and  upwards  of  250  Woodcuts,  and 
containing  400  pages  of  Text.    Imp.  4to,  elegantly  and  substantially  half-bound 
in  morocco      ..........         '^<^i    £6  6s. 

List  of  Contents. 


XIII.  Distribution  of  Water.— XIV.  Meters, 
Service  Pipes,  and  House  Fittings.— XV. 
The  Law  and  Economy  of  Water  Works. — 

XVI.  Constant  and  Intermittent  Supply. — 

XVII.  Description  of  Plates.— Appendices, 
giving  Tables  of  Rates  of  Supply,  Velo- 
cities, &C.,  &C.,  TOGETHER  WITH  SPECIFICA- 
tions of  several  works  illustrated,  among 
which  will  be  found:  aberdeen,  bideford, 
Canterbury,  Dundee,  Halifax,  Lambeth, 
rotherham,  dublin,  and  others. 


I.  Historical  Sketch  of  some  of  the  Means 

THAT  HAVE  BEEN  ADOPTED  FOR  THE  SUPPLY  OF 

"Water  to  Cities  and  Towns. — II.  Water  and 
THE  Foreign  Matter  usually  associated 
\viTH  it. — III.  Rainfall  and  Evaporation. — 
IV.  Springs  and  the  Water-Bearing  Forma- 
tions oFVARious  Districts. — V.  Measurement 
AND  Estimation  of  the  Flow  of  Water. — 
VI.  On  the  Selection  of  the  Source  of 
Supply.  —  VII.  Wells. — VIII.  Reservoirs.— 
IX.  The  Purification  of  Water. — X.  Pumps. 
— XL  Pumping  Machinery. — XII.  Conduits. — 

"  The  most  systematic  and  valuable  work  upon  water  supply  hitherto  produced  in  English,  or  in  any 
other  language.  .  .  .  Mr.  Humber's  work  is  characterised  almost  throughout  by  an  exhaustiveness 
much  more  distinctive  of  French  and  German  than  of  English  technical  treatises." — Engineer. 

HYDRAULIC  POWER  ENGINEERING. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  the  Concentration  and  Transmission  of  Power  by 
Hydraulic  Machinery.  By  G.  Croydon  Marks,  A.M. Inst. C.E.  With  nearly 
200  Illustrations.    8vo,  cloth  Net  9/- 

SUMMARY  OF  CONTENTS. 


Principles  of  Hydraulics. — The  Flow  of 
Water. —  Hydraulic  Pressures.  — Material. 
—Test  Load.— Packings  for  Sliding  Sur- 
faces.— Pipe  Joints. — Controlling  Valves. 
— Platform  Lifts.— Workshop  and  Foundry 
Cranes.  —  Warehouse  and  Dock  Cranes. — 
Hydraulic  Accumulators  — Presses  for 
Baling  and  other  Purposes. — Sheet  Metal- 

"  We  have  nothing  but  praise  for  this  thoroughly  valuable  work.  The  author  has  succeeded  in 
rendering  his  subject  interesting  as  well  as  instructive." — Practical  Engineer. 

"Can  be  unhesitatingly  recommended  as  a  useful  and  up-to-date  manual  on  hydraulic  transmission 
and  utilisation  of  power." — Mechanical  World. 


WORKING  AND  Forging  Machinery.— Hydraulic 
Riveters. — Hand  anp^Power  Pumps.— Steam 
Pumps. — Turbines. — Impulse  Turbines. — Re- 
action Turbines. — Design  of  Turbines  in 
Detail.  —  Water  Wheels.  —  Hydraulic  En- 
gines.— Recent  Achievements. — Pressure  of 
Water. — Action  of  Pumps,  &c. 


HYDRAULIC  TABLES,  CO^EFFICIENTS,  &  FORMULA. 

For  Finding  the  Discharge  of  Water  from  Orifices,  Notches,  Weirs,  Pipes,  and 
Rivers.  With  New  Formulas,  Tables,  and  General  Information  on  Rain-fall, 
Catchment-Basins,  Drainage,  Sewerage,  Water  Supply  for  Towns  and  Mill 
Power.  By  John  Neville,  Civil  Engineer,  M.R.I. A.  Third  Edition,  carefully 
Revised,  with  considerable  Additions.     Numerous  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo, 

cloth  14/- 

"  It  is,  of  all  English  books  on  the  subject,  the  one  nearest  to  completeness."— /I  ;<:/u7ed. 

HYDRAULIC  MANUAL. 

Consisting  of  Working  Tables  and  Explanatory  Text.  Intended  as  a  Guide  in 
Hydraulic  Calculations  and  Field  Operations.  By  Lowis  D'A.  Jackson,  Author 
of  "Aid  to  Survey  Practice,"  "Modern  Metrology,"  &c.  Fourth  Edition, 
Enlarged.    Large  crown  8vo,  cloth   ........  16/- 

"  The  author  has  constructed  a  manual  which  may  be  accepted  as  a  trustworthy  guide  to  this  branch 
of  the  engineer's  profession." — Engineering. 

WATER  ENGINEERING. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Measurement,  Storage,  Conveyance,  and  Utilisation 
of  Water  for  the  Supply  of  Towns,  for  Mill  Power,  and  for  other  Purposes.  By 
Charles  Slagg,  A. M.Inst. C.E.    Second  Edition.    Crown  8vo,  cloth    .  7/6 

"  As  a  small  practical  treatise  on  the  water  supply  of  towns,  and  on  some  applications  of  water- 
power,  the  work  is  in  many  respects  excellent." — Engineering. 

"  The  author  has  collated  the  results  deduced  from  the  experiments  of  the  most  eminent 
authorities,  and  has  presented  them  in  a  compact  and  practical  form,  accompanied  by  very  clear 
and  detailed  explanations.  .  .  .  The  application  of  water  as  a  motive  power  is  treated  very  carefully 
and  exhaustively." — Builder. 


12 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &^  SOAP'S  CATALOGUE. 


THE  RECLAMATION  OF  LAND  FROM  TIDAL  WATERS. 

A  Handbook  for  Engineers,  Landed  Proprietors,  and  others  interested  in  Works 
of  Reclamation.    By  Alex.  Beazeley,  M.Inst.C.E.    8vo,  cloth    .    Net  10/6 
"The  book  shows  in  a  concise  way  what  has  to  be  done  in  reclaiming  land  from  the  sea,  and  the 
best  way  of  doing  it.  The  work  contains  a  great  deal  of  practical  and  useful  information  which  cannot 
fail  to  be  of  service  to  engineers  entrusted  with  the  enclosure  of  salt  marshes,  and  to  land  owners 
intending  to  reclaim  land  from  the  sea."— 7/?^  Engineer. 

"The  author  has  carried  out  his  task  efficiently  and  well,  and  his  book  contains  a  large  amount  of 
information  of  great  service  to  engineers  and  others  interested  in  works  of  reclamation." — Nature,. 

MASONRY  DAMS  FROM  INCEPTION  TO  COMPLETION. 

Including  numerous  Formulae,  Forms  of  Specification  and  Tender,  Pocket 
Diagram  of  Forces,  &c.    For  the  use  of  Civil  and  Mining  Engineers.    By  C.  F. 

Courtney,  M.Inst.C.E.    8vo,  cloth  9/- 

"The  volume  contains  a  good  deal  of  valuable  data.  Many  useful  suggestions  will  be  found  in- 
the  remarks  on  site  and  position,  location  of  dam,  foundations  and  construction." — Building  News. 

RIVER  BARS. 

The  Causes  of  their  Formation,  and  their  Treatment  by  "  Induced  Tidal  Scour;  " 
with  a  Description  of  the  Successful  Reduction  by  this  Method  of  the  Bar  at 
Dublin.    By  I.  J.  Mann,  Assist.  Eng.  to  the  Dublin  Port  and  Docks  Board. 

Royal  8vo,  cloth  7/6 

"  We  recommend  all  interested  in  harbour  works — and,  indeed,  those  concerned  in  the  improve- 
ments of  rivers  generally — to  read  P4r.  Mann's  interesting  work." — Engineer. 

TRAMWAYS  :  THEIR  CONSTRUCTION  &  WORKING. 

Embracing  a  Comprehensive  History  of  the  System  ;  with  an  exhaustive  Analysis 
of  the  Various  Modes  of  Traction,  including  Horse  Power,  Steam,  Cable 
Traction,  Electric  Traction,  &c. ;  a  Description  of  the  Varieties  of  Rolling  Stock; 
and  ample  Details  of  Cost  and  Working  Expenses.  New  Edition,  Thoroughly 
Revised,  and  Including  the  Progress  recently  made  in  Tramway  Construction, 
&c.  &c.    By  D.  KiNNEAR  Cl.-^rk,  M.Inst.C.E.    With  400  Illustrations.  8vo, 

780  pages,  buckram  28/- 

"The  new  volume  is  one  which  will  rank,  among  tramway  engineers  and  those  interested  in 
tramway  working,  with  the  author's  world-famed  book  on  railway  machinery." — The  Engineer. 

SURVEYING  AS  PRACTISED  BY  CIVIL  ENGINEERS 

AND  SURVEYORS. 

Including  the  Setting-Out  of  Works  for  Construction  and  Surveys  Abroad,  with 
many  Examples  taken  from  Actual  Practice.  A  Handbook  for  use  in  the  Field 
and  the  Office,  intended  also  as  a  Text-book  for  Students.  By  John  White- 
law,  Jun.,  A. M.Inst.C.E.,  Author  of  "  Points  and  Crossings."  With  about  260 
Illustrations.  Demy  8vo,  cloth  ....  [J^i^t  Published.  Net  10/6 
"This  work  is  written  with  admirable  lucidity,  and  will  certainly  be  found  of  distinct  value  botb 
to  students  and  to  those  engaged  in  actual  practice." — The  Builder. 

PRACTICAL  SURVEYING, 

A  Text-Book  for  Students  preparing  for  Examinations  or  for  Survey-work  in  the 
Colonies.  By  George  W.  Usill,  A.M.I.C.E.  With  4  Lithographic  Plates  and 
upwards  of  330  Illustrations.  Seventh  Edition.  Including  Tables  of  Natural  Sines, 
Tangents,  Secants,  &c.    Crown  8vo,  7/6  cloth;   or,  on  Thin  Paper,  leather, 

gilt  edges,  rounded  corners,  for  pocket  use  12/6 

"  The  best  forms  of  instruments  are  described  as  to  their  construction,  uses  and  modes  of  employ- 
ment, and  there  are  innumerable  hints  on  work  and  equipment  such  as  the  author,  in  his  experience  as 
surveyor,  draughtsman  and  teacher,  has  found  necessary,  and  which  the  student  in  his  inexperience 
will  find  most  serviceable." — /tngmeer. 

"The  first  book  which  should  be  put  in  the  hands  of  a  pupil  of  Civil  Engineeving."— Architect. 

AID  TO  SURVEY  PRACTICE. 

For  Reference  in  Surveying,  Levelling,  and  Setting-out ;  and  in  Route  Surveys 
of  Travellers  by  Land  and  Sea.    With  Tables,  Illustrations,  and  Records.  By 
Lowis  D'A.  Jackson,  A.M.I.C.E.    Second  Edition,  Enlarged.   8vo,  cloth  12/6 
"  Mr.  Jackson  has  produced  a  valuable  vade-viecuui  for  the  surveyor.  We  can  recommend  this  book 
as  containing  an  admirable  supplement  to  the  teaching  of  the  accomplished  ?>\ivveyov."—Athenceum. 

"  The  author  brings  to  his  work  a  fortunate  union  of  theory  and  practical  experience  which,2aided. 
by  a  clear  and  lucid  style  of  writing,  renders  the  book  a  very  useful  one."— Builder. 


CIVIL  ENGINEERING,  SURVEYING,  &-c. 


13 


SURVEYING  WITH  THE  TACHEOMETER. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  the  use  of  Civil  and  Military  Engineers  and  Surveyors. 
Including  two  series  of  Tables  specially  computed  for  the  Reduction  of  Readings 
in  Sexagesimal  and  in  Centesimal  Degrees.  By  Neil  Kennedy,  M.Inst.C.E. 
With  Diagrams  and  Plates.  Demy  8vo,  cloth  ....  Net  10/6 
"The  work  is  very  clearly  written,  and  should  remove  all  difficulties  in  the  way  of  any  surveyor 
desirous  of  making  use  of  this  useful  and  rapid  instrument." — Nature. 

ENGINEER'S  &  MINING  SURVEYOR'S  FIELD  BOOK. 

Consisting  of  a  Series  of  Tables,  with  Rules,  Explanations  of  Systems,  and  use  of 
Theodolite  for  Traverse  Surveying  and  Plotting  the  Work  with  minute  accuracy 
by  means  of  Straight  Edge  and  Set  Square  only  ;  Levelling  with  the  Theodo- 
lite ;  Setting-out  Curves  with  and  without  the  Theodolite ;  Earthwork  Tables^ 
&c.    By  W.  Davis  Haskoll,  C.E.   With  numerous  Woodcuts.    Fourth  Edition, 

Enlarged.   Crown  8vo,  cloth  12/- 

"The  book  is  very  handy  ;  the  separate  tables  of  sines  and  tangents  to  every  minute  will  make  it 
useful  for  many  other  purposes,  the  genuine  traverse  tables  existing  all  the  same." — Athenceum. 

LAND  AND  MARINE  SURVEYING. 

In  Reference  to  the  Preparation  of  Plans  for  Roads  and  Railways  ;  Canals,  Rivers, 
Towns'  Water  Supplies ;  Docks  and  Harbours.    With  Description  and  Use  of 
Surveying  Instruments.   By  W.  Davis  Haskoll,  C.E.   Second  Edition,  Revised, 
with  Additions.    Large  crown  8vo,  cloth  .......  9/- 

"  This  book  must  prove  of  great  value  to  the  student.  We  have  no  hesitation  in  recommending  it, 
feeling  assured  that  it  will  more  than  repay  a  careful  study." — Mechanical  World. 

"  A  most  useful  book  for  the  student.  We  can  strongly  recommend  i(  as  a  carefully-written  and 
valuable  text-book.    It  enjoys  a  well-deserved  repute  among  surveyors." — Builder. 

PRINCIPLES  AND  PRACTICE  OF  LEVELLING. 

Showing  its  Application  to  purposes  of  Railway  and  Civil  Engineering  in  the 
Construction  of  Roads;  with  Mr.  Telford's  Rules  for  the  same.  By  Frederick 
W.  SiMMs,  M.Inst.C.E.  Eighth  Edition,  with  Law's  Practical  Examples  for 
Setting-out  Railway  Curves,  and  Traut wine's  Field  Practice  of  Laying-out 
Circular  Curves.    With  7  Plates  and  numerous  Woodcuts,  8vo        .       .  8/6 

"  The  text-book  on  levelling  in  most  of  our  engineering  schools  and  colleges." — Engineer. 

"The  publishers  have  rendered  a  substantial  service  to  the  profession,  especially  to  the  younger 
members,  by  bringing  out  the  present  edition  of  Mr.  Simms's  useful  work."— Engineering. 

AN  OUTLINE  OF  THE  METHOD  OF  CONDUCTING 

A  TRIGONOMETRICAL  SURVEY, 

For  the  Formation  of  Geographical  and  Topographical  Maps  and  Plans,  Military 
Reconnaissance,  LEVELLING,  &c.,  with  Useful  Problems,  Formulse,  and 
Tables.  By  Lieut. -General  Frome,  R.E.  Fourth  Edition,  Revised  and  partly 
Re-written  by  Major-General  Sir  Charles  Warren,  G.C.M.G.,  R.E.    With  19 

Plates  and  115  Woodcuts,  royal  8vo,  cloth  "16/. 

"  No  words  of  praise  from  us  can  strengthen  the  position  so  well  and'so  steadily  maintained  by 

this  work.    Sir  Charles  Warren  has  revised  the  entire  work,  and  made  such  additions  as  were  necessary 

to  bring  every  portion  of  the  contents  up  to  the  present  date." — Broad  Arrow. 

TABLES  OF  TANGENTIAL  ANGLES  &  MULTIPLES, 

For  Setting-out  Curves  from  5  to  200  Radius.  By  A.  Beazeley,  M.Inst.C.E. 
Sixth  Edition,  Revised.  With  an  Appendix  on  the  use  of  the  Tables  for 
Measuring  up  Curves.  Printed  on  50  Cards,  and  sold  in  a  cloth  box,  waistcoat- 
pocket  size       ............  3/6 

"Each  table  is  printed  on  a  small  card,  which,  being  placed  on  the  theodolite,  leaves  the  hands  free 
to  manipulate  the  instrument— no  small  advantage  as  regards  the  rapidity  of  work."— Engineer. 

"  Very  handy :  a  man  may  know  that  all  his  day's  work  must  fall  on  two  of  these  cards,  which  he 
puts  into  his  own  card-case,  and  leaves  the  rest  behind."— Athenofiun. 

HANDY  GENERAL  EARTHWORK  TABLES, 

Giving  the  Contents  in  Cubic  Yards  of  Centre  and  Slopes  of  Cuttings  and 
Embankments  from  3  inches  to  80  leet  in  Depth  or  Height,  for  use  with'^either 
66  feet  Chain  or  100  feet  Chain.  By  J.  H.  Watson  Buck,  M.Inst.C.E.  On  a 
Sheet  mounted  in  cloth  case      ..........  3/6 


14 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


EARTHWORK  TABLES. 

Showing  the  Contents  in  Cubic  Yards  of  Embankments,  Cuttings,  &c.,  of  Heights- 
or  Depths  up  to  an  average  of  80  feet.    By  Joseph  Broadbent,  C.E.,  and 

Francis  Campin,  C.E.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  5/- 

"The  way  in  which  accuracy  is  attained,  by  a  simple  division  of  each  cross  section  into  three 
elements,  two  of  which  are  constant  and  one  variable,  is  ingenious." — Athencenm. 

A  MANUAL  ON  EARTHWORK. 

By  Alex.  J.  Graham,  C.E.  With  numerous  Diagrams.  Second  Edition.  iSmo, 
cloth  2/6- 

THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF  LARGE  TUNNEL  SHAFTS. 

A  Practical  and  Theoretical  Essay.     By  J.  H.  Watson  Buck,  M.Inst.C.E., 
Resident  Engineer,  L.  and  N.  W.  R.    With  Folding  Plates,  8vo,  cloth   .  12/- 
"  Many  of  the  methods  given  are  of  extreme  practical  value  to  the  mason,  and  the  observations  on 
the  form  of  arch,  the  rules  for  ordering  the  stone,  and  the  construction  of  the  templates,  will  be  found 
of  considerable  use.    We  commend  the  book  to  the  engineering  profession."— Building  Neic;s. 

"  Will  be  regarded  by  civil  engineers  as  of  the  utmost  value,  and  calculated  to  save  much  time  and 
obviate  many  mistakes."— Co//terj  G^iardian. 

CAST  &  WROUGHT  IRON  BRIDGE  CONSTRUCTION. 

(A  Complete  and  Practical  Treatise  on),  including  Iron  Foundations.  In 
Three  Parts — Theoretical,  Practical,  and  Descriptive.  By  William  Humber, 
A. -M.Inst.C.E.,  and  M.Inst^.M.E.  Third  Edition,  Revised  and  much  improved,, 
with  115  Double  Plates  (20  of  which  now  first  appear  in  this  edition),  and 
numerous  Additions  to  the  Text.    In  2  vols.,  imp.  4to,  half-bound  in  morocco. 

£6  16s.  6cl. 

"  A  very  valuable  contribution  to  the  standard  literature  of  civil  engineering.  In  addition  tO' 
elevations,  plans,  and  sections,  large  scale  details  are  given,  which  very  much  enhance  the  instructive 
worth  of  those  illustrations."— CiviV  Engineer  and  Architect's  Journal. 

"  Mr.  Humber's  stately  volumes,  lately  issued — in  which  the  most  important  bridges  erected  during 
the  last  five  years,  under  the  direction  of  the  late  Mr.  Brunei,  Sir  W.  Cubitt,  Mr.  Hawkshaw,  Mr.  Page,, 
Mr.  Fowler,  Mr.  Hemans,  and  others  among  our  most  eminent  engineers,  are  drawn  and  specified  in 
great  deiaW."— Engineer. 

ESSAY  ON  OBLIQUE  BRIDGES 

(Practical  and  Theoretical).  With  13  large  Plates.  By  the  late  George. 
Watson  Buck,  M.I. C.E.  Fourth  Edition,  revised  by  his  Son,  J.  H.  Watson 
Buck,  M.I. C.E. ;  and  with  the  addition  of  Description  to  Diagrams  for  Facilitating- 
the  Construction  of  Oblique  Bridges,  by  W.  H.  Barlow,  M.I. C.E.    Royal  8vo, 

cloth  12/- 

"The  standard  text-book  for  all  engineers  regarding  skew  arches  is  Mr.  Buck's  treatise,  and  it 
would  be  impossible  to  consult  a  better." — Engineer. 

"  Mr.  Buck's  treatise  is  recognised  as  a  standard  text-book,  and  his  treatment  has  divested  the  subject 
of  many  of  the  intricacies  supposed  to  belong  to  it.  As  a  guide  to  the  engineer  and  architect,  on  a- 
confessedly  difficult  subject,  Mr.  Buck's  work  is  unsurpassed." — Building  News. 

THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF  OBLIQUE  ARCHES 

(A  practical  Treatise  on).  By  John  Hart.  Third  Edition,  with  Plates.  Imperial 
8vo,  cloth  8/- 

GRAPHIC  AND  ANALYTIC  STATICS. 

In  their  Practical  Application  to  the  Treatment  of  Stresses  in  Roofs,  Solid  Girders, 
Lattice,  Bowstring,  and  Suspension  Bridges,  Braced  Iron  Arches  and  Piers,  and. 
other  Frameworks.  By  R.  Hudson  Gr.a-HAM,  C.E.  Containing  Diagrams  and 
Plates  to  Scale.  With  numerous  Examples,  many  taken  from  existing  Structures. 
Specially  arranged  for  Class-work  in  Colleges  and  Universities.    Second  Edition, 

Revised  and  Enlarged.    8vo,  cloth  16/- 

"  Mr.  Graham's  book  will  find  a  place  wherever  graphic  and  analytic  statics  are  used  or  studied." — 
Engineer. 

"The  work  is  excellent  from  a  practical  point  of  view,  and  has  evidently  been  prepared  with  much, 
care.  The  directions  for  working  are  ample,  and  are  illustrated  by  an  abundance  of  well-selected 
examples.    It  is  an  excellent  text-book  for  the  practical  draughtsman." — Athenceum. 

WEIGHTS  OF  WROUGHT  IRON  AND  STEEL  GIRDERS, 

A  Graphic  Table  for  Facilitating  the  Computation  of  the  Weights  of  Wrought 
Iron  and  Steel  Girders,  &c.,  for  Parliamentary  and  other  Estimates.  By  J.  H. 
Watson  Buck,  M.Inst.C.E.    On  a  Sheet  2/a 


CIVIL  ENGINEERING,  SURVEYING,  ^c. 


15 


PRACTICAL  GEOMETRY. 

For  the  Architect,  Engineer,  and  Mechanic.  Giving  Rules  for  the  Delineation 
and  Application  of  various  Geometrical  Lines,  Figures,  and  Curves.    By  E.  W. 

Tarn,  M.A.,  Architect.    8vo,  cloth  9/- 

"  No  book  with  the  same  objects  in  view  has  ever  been  published  in  which  the  clearness  of  the  rules 
laid  down  and  the  illustrative  diagrams  have  been  so  satisfactory." — Scotsman. 

THE  GEOMETRY  OF  COMPASSES. 

Or,  Problems  Resolved  by  the  mere  Description  of  Circles,  and  the  use  of 
Coloured  Diagrams  and  Symbols.  By  Oliver  Byrne.  Coloured  Plates. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth  3/6 

EXPERIMENTS  ON  THE  FLEXURE  OF  BEAMS. 

Resulting  in  the  Discovery  of  New  Laws  of  Failure  by  Buckling.  By  Albert 
E.  Guy.    Medium  8vo,  cloth       ....        [Just  Published.    Net  9/- 

HANDY  BOOK  FOR  THE  CALCULATION  OF  STRAINS 

In  Girders  and  Similar  Structures  and  their  Strength.    Consisting  of  Formulae 
and  Corresponding  Diagrams,  with  numerous  details  for  Practical  Application, 
&c.    By  William  Humber,  A.-M.Inst.C.E.,  &c.    Fifth  Edition.    Crown  8vo, 
with  nearly  100  Woodcuts  and  3  Plates,  cloth  ......  T/Cf- 

"The  formulae  are  neatly  expressed,  and  the  diagrams  good." — Athenceiim. 

"We  heartily  commend  this  really  handy  book  to  our  engineer  and  architect  readers." — English 
Mechanic. 

TRUSSES  OF  WOOD  AND  IRON. 

Practical  Applications  of  Science  in  Determining  the  Stresses,  Breaking  Weights, 
Safe  Loads,  Scantlings,  and  Details  of  Construction.    With  Complete  Working 
Drawings.    By  William  Griffiths,  Surveyor,  Assistant  Master,  Tranmere 
School  of  Science  and  Art.    Oblong  8vo,  cloth  ......  4/6 

"  This  handy  little  book  enters  so  minutely  into  every  detail  connected  with  the  construction  of  roof 
trusses  that  no  student  need  be  ignorant  of  these  matters." — Practical  Engineer. 

THE  STRAINS  ON  STRUCTURES  OF  IRONWORK. 

With  Practical  Remarks  on  Iron  Construction.  By  F.  W.  Sheilds,  M.LC.E. 
8vo,  cloth  5/- 

A  TREATISE  ON  THE  STRENGTH  OF  MATERIALS. 

With  Rules  for  application  in  Architecture,  the  Construction  of  Suspension 
Bridges,  Railways,  &c.  By  Peter  Barlow,  F.R.S.  A  New  Edition,  revised  by 
his  Sons,  P.  W.  Barlow,  F.R.S. ,  and  W.  H.  Barlow,  F.R.S.  ;  to  which  are 
added.  Experiments  by  Hodgkinson,  Fairbairn,  and  Kirkaldy  ;  and  Formulae 
for  Calculating  Girders,  &c.  Edited  by  Wm.  Humber,  A.-M.Inst.C.E.  Demy 
8vo,  400  pp.,  with  ig  large  Plates  and  numerous  Woodcuts,  cloth  .  18/- 
"Valuable  alike  to  the  student,  tyro,  and  the  experienced  practitioner,  it  will  always  rank  in  future,, 
as  it  has  hitherto  done,  as  the  standard  treatise  on  that  particular  subject." — Engineer. 

SAFE  RAILWAY  WORKING. 

A  Treatise  on  Railway  Accidents,  their  Cause  and  Prevention  ;  with  a  Descrip- 
tion of  Modern  Appliances  and  Systems.  By  Clement  E.  Stretton,  C.E., 
Author  of  "The  Development  of  the  Locomotive  Engine,"  &c.  With  Illus- 
trations and  Coloured  Plates.  Third  Edition,  Enlarged.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  3/6 
"A  book  for  the  engineer,  the  directors,  the  managers;  and,  in  short,  all  who  wish  for  information 
on  railway  matters  will  find  a  perfect  encyclopaedia  in  '  Safe  Railway  Working.'  " — Railway  Review. 

"  The  author  may  be  congratulated  on  having  collected,  in  a  very  convenient  form,  much  valuable- 
information  on  the  principal  questions  affecting  the  safe  working  of  railways." — Railway  Engineer. 

EXPANSION  OF  STRUCTURES  BY  HEAT. 

By  John  Keily,  C.E.,  late  of  the  Indian  Public  Works  Department.  Crown 

8vo,  cloth   .  3/6 

"The  aim  the  author  has  set  before  him,  viz.,  to  show  the  effects  of  heat  upon  metallic  and  other 

structures,  is  a  laudable  one,  for  this  is  a  branch  of  physics  upon  which  the  engineer  or  architect  cant 

find  but  little  reliable  and  comprehensive  data  in  books." — Builder. 


i6 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


THE  PROGRESS  OF  MODERN  ENGINEERING. 

Complete  in  Four  Volumes,  imperial  4to,  half-morocco,  price  £12  12s. 
Each  volume  sold  separately,  as  follows: — 
First  Series,  Comprising  Civil,  Mechanical,  Marine,  Hydraulic,  Railway, 
Bridge,  and  other  Engineering  Works,  &c.  By  William  Humber,  A.-M.Inst.C.E., 
&c.    Imp.  4to,  with  36  Double  Plates,  drawn  to  a  large  scale.  Photographic 
Portrait  of  John  Hawkshaw,  C.E.,  F.R.S.,  &c.,  and  copious  descriptive  Letterpress, 

Specifications,  &c.,  half-morocco  £3  3s. 

List  of  the  Plates  and  Diagrams. 
Victoria  Station  and  Roof,  L.  B.  &  S.  C.  R.  (8  plates);  Southport  Pier  (2  plates); 
Victoria  Station  and  Roof,  L.  C.  &  D.  and  G.  W.  R.  (6  plates)  ;  Roof  of  Cremorne  Music 
Hall  ;  Bridge  over  G.  N.  Railway  ;  Roof  of  Station,  Dutch  Rhenish  Rail  (2  plates)  ; 
Bridge  over  the  Thames,  West  London  Extension  Railway  (5  plates)  ;  Armour  Plates  : 
Suspension  Bridge,  Thames  (4  plates)  ;  The  Allen  Engine  ;  Suspension  Bridge,  Avon 
(3  plates)  ;  Underground  Railway  (3  plates). 

"  Handsomely  lithographed  and  printed.  It  will  find  favour  with  many  who  desire  to  preserve  in 
a  permanent  form  copies  of  the  plans  and  specifications  prepared  for  the  guidance  of  the  contractors  for 
many  important  engineering  works." — Engineer. 

HUMBERTS  MODERN  ENGINEERING, 

Second  Series.  Imperial  4to,  with  3  Double  Plates,  Photographic  Portrait  of 
Robert  Stephenson,  C.E.,  M.P.,  F.R.S.,  &c.,  and  copious  descriptive  Letterpress, 

Specifications,  &c.,  half-morocco  £3  3s. 

List  of  the  Plates  and  Diagrams. 
Birkenhead  Docks,  Low  WATEyi  Basin  (15  plates)  ;  Charing  Cross  Station  Roof,  C.  C. 
Railway  (3  plates)  ;  Digswell  Viaduct,  Great  Northern  Railway  ;  Robbery  Wood  Viaduct, 
Great  Northern  Railway  ;  Iron  Permanent  Way  ;  Clydach  Viaduct  ;  Merthyr,  Tredegar, 
AND  Abergavenny  Railway  ;  Ebbw  Viaduct,  Merthyr,  Tredegar,  and  Abergavenny  Railway  ; 
College  Wood  Viaduct,  Cornwall  Railway  ;  Dublin  Winter  Palace  Roof  (3  plates)  ; 
Bridge  over  the  Thames,  L.  C.  and  D.  Railway  (6  plates)  ;  Albert  Harbour,  Greenock 
(4  plates). 

"  Mr.  Humber  has  done  the  profession  good  and  true  service,  by  the  fine  collection  of  examples  he 
has  here  brought  before  the  profession  and  the  public." — Practical  Mechanic's  Journal. 

HUMBERTS  MODERN  ENGINEERING. 

Third  Series.  Imp.  4to,  with  40  Double  Plates,  Photographic  Portrait  of  J.  R. 
M'Clean,  late  Pres.  Inst.  C.E.,  and  copious  descriptive  Letterpress,  Specifica- 
tions, &c.,  half-morocco      .........      £3  3s. 

List  of  the  Plates  and  Diagrams. 

Main  Drainage,  Metropolis. — North  Side. — Map  showing  Interception  of  Sewers;  Middle 
Level  Sewer  (2  plates)  ;  Outfall  Sewer,  Bridge  over  River  Lea  {3  plates)  ;  Outfall 
Sewer,  Bridge  over  Marsh  Lane,  North  Woolwich  Railway,  and  Bow  and  Barking 
Railway  Junction  ;  Outfall  Sewer,  Bridge  over  Bow  and  Barking  Railway  (3  plates)  ; 
Outfall  Sewer,  Bridge  over  East  London  Waterworks'  Feeder  (2  plates)  ;  Outfall 
Sewer  Reservoir  (2  plates)  ;  Outfall  Sewer,  Tumbling  Bay  and  Outlet  ;  Outfall  Sewer, 
Penstocks.  South,  Side. — Outfall  Sewer,  Bermondsey  Branch  (2  plates)  ;  Outfall  Sewer, 
Reservoir  anp  Outlet  (4  plates)  ;  Outfall  Sewer,  Filth  Hoist  ;  Sections  of  Sewers 
<North  and  South  Sides). 

Thames  Embankment. — Section  of  River  Wall  ;  Steamboat  Pier,  Westminster  (2 
plates)  ;  Landing  Stairs  between  Charing  Cross  and  Waterloo  Bridges  ;  York  Gate 
<2  plates)  ;  Overflow  and  Outlet  at  Savoy  Street  Sewer  (3  plates)  ;  Steamboat  Pier, 
Waterloo  Bridge  (3  plates)  ;  Junction  of  Sewers,  Plans  and  Sections  ;  Gullies,  Plans, 
AND  Sections  ;  Rolling  Stock  ;  Granite  and  Iron  Forts. 

"  The  drawings  have  a  constantly  increasing  value,  and  whoever  desires  to  possess  clear  representa- 
tions of  the  two  great  works  carried  out  by  our  Metropolitan  Board  will  obtain  Mr.  Humber's 
volume." — Engineer. 

HUMBERTS  MODERN  ENGINEERING. 

Fourth  Series.  Imp.  4to,  with  36  Double  Plates,  Photographic  Portrait  of 
John  Fowler,  late  Pres.  Inst.  C.E.,  and  copious  descriptive  Letterpress,  Specifi- 
cations, &c.,  half -morocco  .........      £3  3s. 

List  of  the  Plates  and  Diagrams. 

Abbey  Mills  Pumping  Station,  Main  Drainage,  Metropolis  (4  plates)  ;  Barrow  Docks 
(5  plates)  ;  Manquis  Viaduct,  Santiago  and  Valparaiso  Railway  (2  plates)  ;  Adam's  Locomo- 
tive, St.  Helen's  Canal  Railway  (2  plates);  Cannon  Street  Station  Roof,  Charing  Cross 
Railway  (3  plates)  ;  Road  Bridge  over  the  River  Moka  {2  plates)  ;  Telegraphic  Apparatus 
for  Mesopotamia  ;  Viaduct  over  the  River  Wye,  Midland  Railway  (3  plates)  ;  St.  Germans 
Viaduct,  Cornwall  Railway  (2  plates);  Wrought-Iron  Cylinder  for  Diving  Bell;  Mill- 
wall  Docks  (6  plates)  ;  Milroy's  Patent  Excavator  ;  Metropolitan  District  Railway 
(6  plates)  ;  Harbours,  Ports,  and  Breakwaters  (3  plates). 

"Wc;  gladly  welcome  another  year's  issue  of  this  valuable  publication  from  the  able  pen  of  Mr. 
Humber.  The  accuracy  and  general  excellence  of  this  work  are  well  known,  while  its  usefulness  in 
giving  the  measurements  and  details  of  some  of  the  latest  examples  of  engineering,  as  carried  out  by 
the  most  eminent  men  in  the  profession,  cannot  be  too  highly  prized." — Artizan. 


MARINE  ENGINEERING,  NAVIGATION,  ^c. 


17 


MARINE  ENGINEERING,  SHIPBUILDING, 
NAVIGATION,  ETC. 

THE  NAVAL  ARCHITECTS  AND  SHIPBUILDER'S 

POCKET-BOOK 

Of  Formulae,  Rules,  and  Tables,  and  Marine  Engineer's  and  Surveyor's  Handy 
Book  of  Reference.  By  Clement  Mackrow,  M.I.N. A.  Eighth  Edition,  care- 
fully Revised  and  Enlarged.    Fcap.,  leather         ....       Net  12/6 

Summary  of  Content.s. 

Signs  and  Symbols,  Decimal  Fractions. — Trigonometry. — Practical  Geometry. — Men- 
suration.— Centres  and  Moments  of  Figures. — Moments  of  Inertia  and  Radii  Gyration. — 
Algebraical  Expressions  for  Simpson's  Rules. — Mechanical  Principles. — Centre  ofGravity. 
—Laws  of  Motion.— Displacement,  Centre  of  Buoyancy.— Centre  of  Gravity  of  Ship's  Hull. 
— Stability  Curves  and  Metacentres. — Sea  and  Shallow-water  Waves. — Rolling  of  Ships. — 
Propulsion  and  Resistance  of  Vessels. — Speed  Trials. — Sailing,  Centre  of  Effort. — 
Distances  down  Rivers,  Coast  Lines. — Steering  and  Rudders  of  Vessels. — Launching 
Calculations  and  Velocities. — Weight  of  Material  and  Gear. — Gun  Particulars  and 
Weight. — Standard  Gauges. — Riveted  Joints  and  Riveting. — Strength  and  Tests  of 
Materials. — Binding  and  Shearing  Stresses,  etc. — Strength  of  Shafting,  Pillars,  Wheels, 
ETC. — Hydraulic  Data,  etc. — Conic  Sections,  Catenarian  Curves. — Mechanical  Powers, 
Work. — Board  of  Trade  Regulations  for  Boilers  and  Engines. — Board  of  Trade  Regula- 
tions FOR  Ships. — Lloyd's  Rules  for  Boilers. — Lloyd's  Weight  of  Chains.— Lloyd's  Scant- 
lings FOR  Ships. — Data  of  Engines  and  Vessels.— Ships'  Fittings  and  Tests. — Seasoning 
Preserving  Timber. — Measurement  of  Timber.— Alloys,  Paints,  Varnishes. — Data  for 
Stowage.  —  Admiralty  Transport  Regulations.  —  Rules  for  Horse-power,  Screw  Pro- 
pellers, ETC. — Percentages  for  Butt  Straps,  etc.— Particulars  of  Yachts. — Masting  and 
Rigging  Vessels. — Distances  of  Foreign  Ports. — Tonnage  Tables. — ^Vocabulary  of  French 
and  English  Terms. — English  Weights  and  Measures. — Foreign  Weights  and  Measures. — 
Decimal  Equivalents. — Foreign  Money. — Discount  and  Wage  Tables.-^Useful  Numbers  and 
Ready  Reckoners. — Tables  of  Circular  Measures. — Tables  of  Areas  of  and  Circumferences 
of  Circles. — Tables  of  Areas  of  Segments  of  Circles. — Tables  of  Squares  and  Cubes  and 
Roots  of  Numbers. — Tables  of  Logarithms  of  Numbers. — Tables  of  Hyperbolic  Logarithms. 
— Tables  of  Natural  Sines,  Tangents,  etc. — Tables  of  Logarithmic  Sines,  Tangents,  etc. 

"  In  these  days  of  advanced  knowledge  a  work  like  this  is  of  the  greatest  value.  It  contains  avast 
amount  of  information.  We  unhesitatingly  say  that  it  is  the  most  valuable  compilation  for  its  specific 
purpose  that  has  ever  been  printed.  No  naval  architect,  engineer,  surveyor,  seaman,  wood  or  iron 
shipbuilder,  can  afford  to  be  without  this  work." — Nautical  Magazine. 

"  Should  be  used  by  all  who  are  engaged  in  the  construction  or  design  of  vessels.  .  .  .  Will  be 
found  to  contain  the  most  useful  tables  and  formulae  required  by  shipbuilders,  carefully  collected  from 
the  best  authorities,  and  put  together  in  a  popular  and  simple  form.  The  book  is  one  of  exceptional 
merit."— Engineer. 

"  The  professional  shipbuilder  has  now,  in  a  convenient  and  accessible  form,  reliable  data  for 
solving  many  of  the  numerous  problems  that  present  themselves  in  the  course  of  his  work." — Iron. 

"There  is  no  doubt  that  a  pocket-book  of  this  description  must  be  a  necessity  in  the  shipbuilding 
trade.  .  .  .  The  volume  contains  a  mass  of  useful  information  clearly  expressed  and  presented  in 
a  handy  form." — Marine  Engineer. 

WANNAN*S  MARINE  ENGINEER*S  GUIDE 

To  Board  of  Trade  Examinations  for  Certificates  of  Competency.  Containing 
all  latest  Questions  to  Date,  with  Simple,  Clear,  and  Correct  Solutions ; 
302  Elementary  Questions  with  Illustrated  Answers,  and  Verbal  Questions  and 
Answers  ;  complete  Set  of  Drawings  with  Statements  completed.  By  A.  C. 
Wannan,  C.E.,  Consulting  Engineer,  and  E.  W.  I.  Wannan,  M.I.M.E., 
Certificated  First  Class  Marine  Engineer.  Illustrated  with  numerous  Engrav- 
ings.    Third  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged.    500  pages.    Large  crown  8vo, 

cloth  [Just  Published.    Net  10/6 

"  The  book  is  clearly  and  plainly  written  and  avoids  unnecessary  explanations  and  formulas,  and 

we  consider  it  a  valuable  book  for  students  of  marine  engineering." — Nautical  Magazine. 

"  This  is  an  excellent  book.    The  young  engineer  with  the  world  before  him  could  hardly  make  a 

sounder  base.    The  feature  of  the  volume  is  its  simplicity." — Glasgow  Herald. 

"The  work  covers  all  points  on  which  information  is  indispensable,  and  does  so  in  a  manner 

which  affords  those  who  go  to  it  for  guidance  an  opportunity  of  not  only  gaining  knowledge,  but  of 

testing  to  what  extent  they  have  succeeded  in  mastering  the  multifarious  details  with  which  the 

volume  abounds." — Scotsman. 

WANNAN^S  MARINE  ENGINEER'S  POCKET-BOOK* 

Containing  latest  Board  of  Trade  Rules  and  Data  for  Marine  Engineers.  By 
A.  C.  Wannan,  C.E.     Third  Edition,  Revised,  Enlarged,  and  Brought  up  to 

Date.    Square  i8mo,  with  Thumb  Index,  leather  5/- 

"  There  is  a  great  deal  of  useful  information  in  this  little  pocket-book.  It  is  of  the  rule-of-thumb 
order,  and  is,  on  that  account,  well  adapted  to  the  uses  of  the  sea-going  engineer." — Engineer. 

"The  work,  with  its  many  diagrams,  condenses  the  information  that  is  contained  in  the  larger 
works  on  the  subject,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  very  handy  for  reference."— Nautical  Magazine. 

B 


i8 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


SEA  TERMS,  PHRASES,  AND  WORDS 

(Technical  Dictionary  of)  used  in  the  English  and  French  Languages.  (English- 
French,  French-English.)  For  the  Use  of  Seamen,  Engineers,  Pilots,  Ship- 
builders, Shipowners,  and  Ship-brokers.  Compiled  by  W.  Pirrie,  late  of  the 
African  Steamship  Company.  Fcap.  8vo,  cloth  limp  ....  5/- 
"  This  volume  will  be  highly  appreciated  by  seamen,  engineers,  pilots,  shipbuilders  and  ship- 
owners.   It  will  be  found  wonderfully  accurate  and  complete."— Scofsn/an. 

"A  very  useful  dictionary,  which  has  long  been  wanted  by  French  and  English  engineers,  masters, 
officers  and  others."— Shipping  World. 

ELECTRIC  SHIP  LIGHTING. 

A  Handbook  on  the  Practical  Fitting  and  Running  of  Ship's  Electrical  Plant,  for 
the  Use  of  Shipowners  and  Builders,  Marine  Electricians  and  Sea-going 
Engineers  in  Charge.  By  J.  W.  Urquhart,  Author  of  "Electric  Light," 
"Dynamo  Construction,"  &c.  Second  Edition,  revised  and  extended.  With 
numerous  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  7/6 

MARINE  ENGINEER*S  POCKET-BOOK. 

Consisting  of  useful  Tables  and  Formulae.     By  Frank  Proctor.  A. I.N. A. 

Third  Edition.    Royal  32mo,  leather  4/- 

"  We  recommend  it  to  our  readers  as  going  far  to  supply  a  long-felt  want."— Naval  Science. 
"A  most  useful  companion  to  all  marine  engineers."— United  Service  Gazette. 

ELEMENTARY  MARINE  ENGINEERING. 

A  Manual  for  Young  Marine  Engineers  and  Apprentices.  In  the  Form  of 
Questions  and  Answers  on  Metals,  Alloys,  Strength  of  Materials,  Construction 
and  Management  of  Marine  Engines  and  Boilers,  Geometry,  &c.  With  an 
Appendix  of  Useful  Tables.  By  John  Sherren  Brewer,  Government  Marine 
Surveyor,  Hongkong.    Fifth  Edition,  small  crown  8vo,  cloth  .       .  1/S 

"Contains  much  valuable  information  for  the  class  for  whom  it  is  intended,  especially  in  the 
chapters  on  the  management  of  boilers  and  engines."— Nautical  Magazine. 

MARINE  ENGINES  AND  STEAM  VESSELS. 

A  Treatise  on.  By  Robert  Murray,  C.E.  Eighth  Edition,  thoroughly 
Revised,  with  considerable  Additions  by  the  Author  and  by  George  Carlisle, 
C.E.,  Senior  Surveyor  to  the  Board  of  Trade  at  Liverpool.    Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

4/6 

PRACTICAL  NAVIGATION. 

Consisting  of  The  Sailor's  Sea-Book,  by  James  Greenwood  and  W.  H. 
RossER  ;  together  with  the  requisite  Mathematical  and  Nautical  Tables  for  the 
Working  of  the  Problems,  by  Henry  Law,  C.E.,  and  Professor  J.  R.  Young. 
Illustrated.    i2mo,  strongly  half-bound    .......  7/— 

THE  ART  AND  SCIENCE  OF  SAILMAKING. 

By  Samuel  B.  Sadler,  Practical  Sailmaker,  late  in  the  employment  of  Messrs. 
Ratsey  and  Lapthorne,  of  Cowes  and  Gosport.    With  Plates  and  other  Illustra- 
tions.   Small  4to,  cloth     ..........  12/& 

"This  extremely  practical  work  gives  a  complete  education  in  all  the  branches  of  the  manufacture, 

cutting  out,  roping,  seaming  and  goring.   It  is  copiously  illustrated,  and  will  form  a  first-rate  text-book 

and  guide." — Portsmouth  Times. 

CHAIN  CABLES  AND  CHAINS. 

Comprising  Sizes  and  Curves  of  Links,  Studs,  &c.,  Iron  for  Cables  and  Chains, 
Chain  Cable  and  Chain  Making,  Forming  and  Welding  Links,  Strength  of 
Cables  and  Chains,  Certificates  for  Cables,  Marking  Cables,  Prices  of  Chain 
Cables  and  Chains,  Historical  Notes,  Acts  of  Parliament,  Statutory  Tests, 
Charges  for  Testing,  List  of  Manufacturers  of  Cables,  &c.,  &c.  By  Thomas  W. 
Traill,  F.E.R.N.,  MTnst.C.E.,  Engineer-Surveyor-in-Chief,  Board  of  Trade, 
Inspector  of  Chain  Cable  and  Anchor  Proving  Establishments,  and  General 
Superintendent,  Lloyd's  Committee  on  Proving  Establishments.  With  numerous 
Tables,  Illustrations,  and  Lithographic  Drawings.    Folio,  cloth,  bevelled  boards. 

£2  2s. 

"  It  contanis  a  vast  amount  of  valuable  information.    Nothing  seems  to  be  wanting  to  make  it  a 
complete  and  standard  work  of  reference  on  the  subject."— iVa^^tca/  Magazine. 


MINING.  MEy'ALLUKGY,  AND   COLLIER  V  WORKING. 


19 


MINING,   METALLURGY,  AND 
COLLIERY  WORKING. 

THE  OIL  FIELDS  GF  RUSSIA  AND  THE  RUSSIAN 

OIL  INDUSTRY. 

Comprising  a  Complete  Account  of  the  Physical  Features  and  Productions  of 
the  Russian  Oil  Regions,  and  a  Practical  Guide  to  the  Exploration,  Exploitation, 
and  Management  of  Oil  Properties  in  Russia  and  elsewhere.  By  A.  Beeby 
Thompson,  A.M.Inst.M.E.,  Chief  Engineer  and  Manager  of  the  European 
Petroleum  Company.    Super-royal  8vo,  with  Plates  and  other  Illustrations. 

[/»  the  Press.    Price  about  30/-  Net. 

MACHINERY  FOR  METALLIFEROUS  MINES* 

A  Practical  Treatise  for  Mining  Engineers,  Metallurgists  and  Managers  of 
Mines.  By  E.  Henry  Davies,  M.E.,  F.G.S.  600  pp.,  with  Folding  Plates 
and  other  Illustrations.    Medium  8vo,  cloth        ....        A''^^  25/- 

Water  as  a  Motive  Power.— Wind  Engines  and  Ventilating  Machinery.  —  Steam 
Boilers,  Steam  Engines,  and  Oil  Engines.— Hoisting  Machinery.— The  Drainage  of  Mines 
and  Pumping  Machinery.— Rock  drilling  Machinery.— Boring  Machinery.— Coarse  Con- 
centration Machinery. — Sizing  and  Classification  Trommels. — Jiggers  and  Jigging. — 
Machinery  for  Fine  Concentration. — The  Milling  of  Gold  Ores. — The  Milling  of  Silver 
Ores. — Amalgamating  Plates  and  Machinery.  —  Drying  and  Roasting  Machinery. — The 
Chlorination  and  Cyanide  Processes  for  the  Extraction  of  Gold. — Concentration  Mills 
OR  Dressing  Floors  for  the  Ores  of  Lead,  Zinc,  Copper,  etc. — Other  Methods  of  Con- 
centration, the  Working  of  Mills,  etc. — Electricity  as  a  Motive  Power  for  Mining 
Machinery. — Electric  Lighting  and  Electric  Blasting. — Aerial  Wire  Ropeways  and  Wire 
Ropes. — Transport  by  Rail  and  Road. 

"  Deals  exhaustively  with  the  many  and  complex  details  which  go  to  make  up  the  sum  total  of 
machinery  and  other  requirements  for  the  successful  working  of  metalliferous  mines,  and  as  a  book  of 
ready  reference  is  of  the  highest  value  to  mine  managers  and  directors  " — Mining  Journal. 

"  Mr.  Davies  has  done  the  advanced  student  and  the  manager  of  mines  good  service.  Almost  every 
kind  of  machinery  in  actual  use  is  carefully  described, and  the  woodcuts  and  plates  are  good. " — A  thenwitni. 

THE  DEEP  LEVEL  MINES  OF  THE  RAND 

AND  THEIR  FUTURE  DEVELOPMENT. 

Considered  from  the  Commercial  Point  of  View.  By  G.  A.  Denny  (of  Johannes- 
burg), M.N.E.I.M .E.,  Consulting  Engineer  to  the  General  Mining  and  Finance 
Corporation,  Limited,  of  London,  Berlin,  Paris,  and  Johannesburg.  Fully  Illustrated 
with  Diagrams  and  Folding  Plates.  Royal  8vo,  buckram       .       .       .      Net  25/- 

"  Mr.  Denny  by  confining  himself  to  the  consideration  of  the  future  of  the  deep-level  mines  of  the 
Rand  breaks  new  ground,  and  by  dealing  with  the  subject  rather  from  a  commercial  standpoint  than 
from  a  scientific  one,  appeals  to  a  wide  circle  of  readers.  The  book  cannot  fail  to  prove  of  very  great 
value  to  investors  in  South  African  mines." — Mining  Journal. 

"  Will  interest  all  who  are  concerned  in  any  way  with  the  Witwatersrand  Goldfields." — The  Times. 

PROSPECTING  FOR  GOLD, 

A  Handbook  of  Practical  Information  and  Hints  for  Prospectors  based  on 
Personal  Experience.  By  Daniel  J.  Rankin,  F.R.S.G.S.,  M.R.A.S.,  formerly 
Manager  of  the  Central  African  Company,  and  Leader  of  African  Gold  Pros- 
pecting Expeditions.    With  Illustrations  specially  Drawn  and  Engraved  for  the 

Work.    Fcap.  8vo,  leather  Net  7/6 

"  This  well-compiled  book  contains  a  collection  of  the  richest  gems  of  useful  knowledge  for  the 

prospector's  benefit.     A  special  table  is  given  to  accelerate  the  spotting  at  a  glance  of  minerals 

associated  with  gold." — Mining  Journal. 

THE  METALLURGY  OF  GOLD. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Metallurgical  Treatment  of  Gold-bearing  Ores. 
Including  the  Assaying,  Melting,  and  Refining  of  Gold.  By  M.  Eissler, 
M.Inst.M.M.  Fifth  Edition,  Enlarged.  With  over  300  Illustrations  and 
Numerous  Folding  Plates.    Medium  8vo,  cloth     ....       Net  21/- 

"This  book  thoroughly  deserves  its  title  of  a  'Practical  Treatise.'  The  whole  process  of  gold 
mining,  from  the  breaking  of  the  quartz  to  the  assay  of  the  bullion,  is  described  in  clear  and  orderly 
narrative  and  with  much,  but  not  too  much,  fulness  of  detail." — Saturday  Revieiv. 

"The  work  is  a  storehouse  of  information  and  valuable  data,  and  we  strongly  recommend  it  to  all 
professional  men  engaged  in  the  gold-mining  industry." — Mining  Journal. 

THE  CYANIDE  PROCESS  OF  GOLD  EXTRACTION. 

And  its  Practical  Application  on  the  Witwatersrand  Gold  Fields  and  elsewhere. 
By  M.  Eissler,  M.Inst.M.M.    With  Diagrams  and  Working  Drawings.  Third 

Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged.    8vo,  cloth  Net  7/6 

_  "This  book  is  just  what  was  needed  to  acquaint  mining  men  with  the  actual  working  of  a  process 

which  is  not  only  the  most  popular,  but  is,  as  a  general  rule,  the  most  successful  for  the  extraction  of 

gold  from  tailings." — Mining  Journal. 


B  3 


20 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


DIAMOND  DRILLING  FOR  GOLD  &  OTHER  MINERALS. 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Use  of  Modern  Diamond  Core-Drills  in  Prospect- 
ing and  Exploiting  Mineral-bearing  Properties,  including  Particulars  of  the  Cost 
of  Apparatus  and  Working.    By  G.  A.  Denny,  M.N. E.Inst. M.E.,  M.Inst.M.M. 

Medium  8vo,  i68  pp.,  with  Illustrative  Diagrams  12/6 

"There  is  certainly  scope  for  a  work  on  diajnond  drilling,  and  Mr.  Denny  deserves  grateful 

recognition  for  supplying  a  decided  want.    We  strongly  recommend  every  board  of  directors  to 

carefully  peruse  the  pages  of  the  work."— Mining  Journal. 

FIELD  TESTING  FOR  GOLD  AND  SILVER. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Prospectors  and  Miners.  By  W.  H.  Merritt, 
M.N.E.Inst.M.E.,  A.R.S.M.,  &c.  With  Photographic  Plates  and  other  Illustra- 
tions.   Fcap.  8vo,  leather  Net  5/- 

"  As  an  instructor  of  prospectors  classes  Mr.  Merritt  has  the  advantage  of  knowing  exactly  the 
information  likely  to  be  most  valuable  to  the  miner  in  the  field.  The  contents  cover  all  the  details  of 
sampling  and  testing  gold  and  silver  ores.    A  useful  addition  to  a  prospector's  kit."— Minitig  Journal. 

THE  PROSPECTOR'S  HANDBOOK. 

A  Guide  for  the  Prospector  and  Traveller  in  Search  of  Metal-Bearing  or  other 
Valuable  Minerals.  By  J.  W.  Anderson,  M.A.  (Camb.),  F.R.G.S.  Ninth  Edition. 
Small  crown  8vo,  3/6  cloth  ;  or,  leather,  pocket-book  form,  with  tuck  4/6 

"  Will  supply  a  much  felt  want,  especially  among  Colonists,  in  whose  way  are  so  often  thrown  many 
mineralogical  specimens  the  value  of  which  it  is  difficult  to  determine." — Engineer. 

"  How  to  find  commercial  minerals,  and  how  to  identify  them  when  they  are  found,  are  the  leading 

Eoints  to  which  attention  is  directed.  The  author  has  managed  to  pack  as  much  practical  detail  into 
is  pages  as  would  supplv  material  for  a  book  three  times  its  size." — Mining  Journal. 

THE  METALLURGY  "OF  SILVER. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Amalgamation,  Roasting,  and  Lixiviation  of  Silver 
Ores.    Including  the  Assaying,  Melting,  and  Refining  of  Silver  Bullion.  By 
M.  Eissler,  M.Inst.M.M.    Third  Edition.    Crown  8vo,  cloth       .  10/6 
"A  practical  treatise,  and  a  technical  work  which  we  are  convinced  will  supply  a  long  felt  want 
amongst  practical  men,  and  at  the  same  time  be  of  value  to  students  and  others  indirectly  connected 
with  the  industries." — Mining  Journal. 

"  From  first  to  last  the  book  is  thoroughly  sound  and  reliable." — Colliery  Guardian. 

THE  HYDRO  METALLURGY  OF  COPPER. 

Being  an  Account  of  Processes  Adopted  in  the  Hydro-Metallurgical  Treatment 
of  Cupriferous  Ores,  including  the  Manufacture  of  Copper  Vitriol.  With 
Chapters  on  the  Sources  of  Supply  of  Copper  and  the  Roasting  of  Copper 
Ores.    By  M.  Eissler,  M.Inst.M.M.    Medium  8vo,  cloth  .       .       Net  12/6 
"In  this  volume  the  various  processes  for  the  extraction  of  copper  by  wet  methods  are  fully 
detailed.    .    .    .   Costs  are  given  when  available,  and  a  great  deal  of  useful  information  about  the 
copper  industry  of  the  world  is  presented  in  an  interesting  and  attractive  manner.   ...   A  very 
welcome  addition  to  the  literature  of  copper." — Mining  Journal. 

THE  METALLURGY  OF  ARGENTIFEROUS  LEAD. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Smelting  of  Silver-Lead  Ores  and  the  Refining  of 
Lead  Bullion.  Including  Reports  on  various  Smelting  Establishments  and 
Descriptions  of  Modern  Smelting  Furnaces  and  Plants  in  Europe  and  America. 
By  M.  Eissler,  M.Inst.M.M.,  Author  of  "  The  Metallurgy  of  Gold,"  &c. 
Crown  8vo,  400  pp.,  with  183  Illustrations,  cloth  .....  12/6 
"The  numerous  metallurgical  processes,  which  are  fully  and  extensively  treated  of,  embrace  all  the 

stages  experienced  in  the  passage  of  the  lead  from  the  various  natural  states  to  its  issue  from  the  refinery 

as  an  article  of  commerce." — Practical  Engineer. 

METALLIFEROUS  MINERALS  AND  MINING. 

By  D.  C.  Davies,  F.G.S.  Sixth  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised  and  much  Enlarged 
by  his  Son,  E.  Henry  Davies,  M.E.,  F.G.S.  600  pp.,  with  173  Illustrations. 
Large  crown  8vo,  cloth        .       .  Net  12/6 

"  Neither  the  practical  miner  nor  the  general  reader,  interested  in  mines,  can  have  a  better  book 
for  his  companion  and  his  guide." — Mining  Journal. 

EARTHY  AND  OTHER  MINERALS  AND  MINING. 

By  D.  C.  Davies,  F.G.S.,  Author  of  "Metalliferous  Minerals,"  &c.  Third 
Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged,  by  his  Son,  E.  Henry  Davies,  M.E.,  F.G.S. 
With  about  100  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  12/6 

BRITISH  MINING. 

A  Treatise  on  the  History,  Discovery,  Practical  Development,  and  Future 
Prospects  of  Metalliferous  Mines  in  the  United  Kingdom.  By  Robert  Hunt, 
F.R.S.,  late  Keeper  of  Mining  Records.  Upwards  of  950  pp.,  with  230  Illustra- 
tions.   Second  Edition,  Revised.    Super-royal  8vo,  cloth        .       .      £2  2S- 


MINING,  METALLURGY,  AND  COLLIERY  WORKING.  21 


POCKET^BOOK  FOR  MINERS  &  METALLURGISTS. 

Comprising  Rules,  Formulae,  Tables,  and  Notes,  for  Use  in  Field  and  Office 
Work.  By  F.  Danvers  Power,  F.G.S.,  M.E.  Second  Edition,  Corrected. 
Fcap.  8vo,  leather      ...........  9/- 

"This  excellent  book  is  an  admirable  example  of  its  kind,  and  ought  to  find  a  large  sale  amongst 
English-speaking  prospectors  and  mining  engineers."— Engineering. 

THE  MINER^S  HANDBOOK. 

A  Handy  Book  of  Reference  on  the  subjects  of  Mineral  Deposits,  Mining 
Operations,  Ore  Dressing,  &c.  For  the  Use  of  Students  and  others  interested  in 
Mining  matters.  Compiled  by  John  Milne,  F.R.S.,  Professor  of  Mining  in  the 
Imperial  University  of  Japan.  Third  Edition.  Fcap.  8vo,  leather  .  7/6 
"  Professor  Milne's  handbook  is  sure  to  be  received  with  favour  by  all  connected  with  mining,  and 
will  be  extremely  popular  among  students," — Athenceum. 

IRON  ORES  OF  GREAT  BRITAIN  AND  IRELAND: 

Their  Mode  of  Occurrence,  Age  and  Origin,  and  the  Methods  of  Searching  for 
and  Working  them.  With  a  Notice  of  some  of  the  Iron  Ores  of  Spain.  By 
J.  D.  Kendall,  F.G.S.,  Mining  Engineer.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  .       .       .  16/- 

MINE  DRAINAGE. 

A  Complete  Practical  Treatise  on  Direct-acting  Underground  Steam  Pumping 
Machinery.    By  Stephen  Michell.    Second  Edition,  Re-written  and  Enlarged, 

With  250  Illustrations.    Royal  8vo,  cloth  Net  25/- 

HORIZONTAL  PUMPING  ENGINES— Rotary  and  Non-Rotary  Horizontal  Engines- 
Simple  AND  Compound  Steam  Pumps— VERTICAL  PUMPING  ENGINES— Rotary  and  Non- 
rotary Vertical  Engines — Simple  and  Compound  Steam  Pumps — Triple-Expansion  Steam 
Pumps — Pulsating  Steam  Pumps — Pump  Valves — Sinking  Pumps,  &c.,  &c. 

"  This  volume  contains  an  immense  amount  of  important  and  interesting  new  matter.  The  book 
should  undoubtedly  prove  of  great  use  to  all  who  wish  for  information  on  the  subject." — The  Engineer. 

ELECTRICITY  AS  APPLIED  TO  MINING. 

By  Arnold  Lupton,  M.Inst.C.E.,  M.I.M.E.,  M.I.E.E.,  late  Professor  of  Coal 
Mining  at  the  Yorkshire  College,  Victoria  University,  Mining  Engineer  and 
CoUiery  Manager  ;  G.  D.  Aspinall  Parr,  M.I.E.E.,  A.M.I.M.E.,  Associate  of 
the  Central  Technical  College,  City  and  Guilds  of  London,  Head  of  the 
Electrical  Engineering  Department,  Yorkshire  College,  Victoria  University; 
and  Herbert  Perkin,  M.I.M.E.,  Certificated  Colliery  Manager,  Assistant 
Lecturer  in  the  Mining  Department  of  the  Yorkshire  College,  Victoria  University. 
With  about  170  Illustrations.  Medium  8vo,  cloth  .  [Just  Published.  Net  9/- 
(For  Summary  of  Contents,  see  page  23.) 

THE  COLLIERY  MANAGER'S  HANDBOOK. 

A  Comprehensive  Treatise  on  the  Laying-out  and  Working  of  Collieries, 
Designed  as  a  Book  of  Reference  for  Colliery  Managers,  and  for  the  Use  of 
Coal-Mining  Students  preparing  for  First-class  Certificates.  By  Caleb  Pamely, 
Mining  Engineer  and  Surveyor ;  Member  of  the  North  of  England  Institute  of 
Mining  and  Mechanical  Engineers ;  and  Member  of  the  South  Wales  Institute 
of  Mining  Engineers.  With  700  Plans,  Diagrams,  and  other  Illustrations. 
Fourth  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged.   964  pp.    Medium  8vo,  cloth    .  25/- 

Geology. — Search  for  Coal. — Mineral  Leases  and  other  Holdings. — Shaft  Sinking. — 
Fitting  Up  the  Shaft  and  Surface  Arrangements. — Steam  Boilers  and  their  Fittings. — 
Timbering  and  Walling. — Narrow  Work  and  Methods  of  Working. — Underground  Convey- 
ance.— Drainage. — The  Gases  met  with  in  Mines  ;  Ventilation. — On  the  Friction  of  Air  in 
Mines.— The  Priestman  Oil  Engine;  Petroleum  and  Natural  Gas.— Surveying  and  Plan- 
ning.— Safety  Lamps  and  Fire-Damp  Detectors. — Sundry  and  Incidental  Operations  and 
Appliances. — Colliery  Explosions. — Miscellaneous  Questions  and  Answers. — Appendix  : 
Summary  of  Report  of  H.M.  Commissioners  on  Accidents  in  Mines. 

"  Mr.  Pamely's  work  is  eminently  suited  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  intended — being  clear, 
interesting,  exhaustive,  rich  in  detail,  and  up  to  date,  giving  descriptions  of  the  latest  machines  in  every 
department.  A  mining  engineer  could  scarcely  go  wrong  who  followed  this  work." — Colliery  Guardian, 

"  Mr.  Pamely  has  not  only  given  us  a  comprehensive  reference  book  of  a  very  high  order,  suitable 
to  the  requirements  of  mining  engineers  and  colliery  managers,  but  has  also  provided  mining  students 
with  a  class-book  that  is  as  interesting  as  it  is  instructive." — Colliery  Manager. 

"  This  is  the  most  complete  '  all-round '  work  on  coal-mining  pubhshed  in  the  English  language. 
...  No  library  of  coal-mining  books  is  complete  without  it."— Colliery  Engineer  (Scranton,  Pa.,  U.S.A.). 


22 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD        SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


COLLIERY  WORKING  AND  MANAGEMENT. 

Comprising  the  Duties  of  a  Colliery  Manager,  the  Oversight  and  Arrangement 
of  Labour  and  Wages,  and  the  different  Systems  of  Working  Coal  Seams.  By 
H.  F.  BuLMAN  and  R.  A.  S.  Redmayne.    350  pages,  with  28  Plates  and  other 
Illustrations,  including  Underground  Photographs.    Medium  8vo,  cloth  .  15/- 
"  Tills  is,  indeed,  an  admirable  Handbook  for  Colliery  Managers,  in  fact,  it  is  an  indispensable 
adjunct  to  a  Colliery  Manager's  education,  as  well  as  being  a  most  useful  and  interesting  work  on  the 
subject  for  all  who  in  any  way  have  to  do  with  coal  mining.    The  underground  photographs  are  an 
attractive  feature  of  the  work,  being  very  life-like  and  necessarily  true  representations  of  the  scenes 
thev  depict."— Co//ie;'V  Guardian. 

'"  Mr.  Bulman  and  Mr.  Redmayne,  who  are  both  experienced  Colliery  Managers  of  great  literary 
ability,  are  to  be  congratulated  on  having  supplied  an  authoritative  work  dealing  with  a  side  of  the 
subject  of  coal  mining  which  has  hitherto  received  but  scant  treatment.  The  authors  elucidate  their 
text  by  119  woodcuts  and  28  plates,  most  of  the  latter  being  admirable  reproductions  of  photographs 
taken  underground  with  the  aid  of  the  magnesium  flash-light.  These  illustrations  are  excellent." — 
'tlatnre. 

COAL  AND  COAL  MINING. 

By  the  late  Sir  Warington  W.  Smyth,  M.A.,  F.R.S.,  Chief  Inspector  of  the 
Mines  of  the  Crown  and  of  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall.  Eighth  Edition,  Revised 
and  Extended  by  T.  Forster  Brown,  Mining  and  Civil  Engineer,  Chief 
Inspector  of  the  Mines  of  the  Crown  and  of  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall.  Crown 

Svo,  cloth   ....  3/6 

"  As  an  outline  is  given  of  every  known  coal-field  in  this  and  other  countries,  as  well  as  of  the 

principal  methods  of  working,  the  bd'ok  will  doubtless  interest  a  very  large  number  of  readers." — 

Mining  Journal. 

NOTES  AND  FORMULi^  FOR  MINING  STUDENTS. 

By  John  Herman  Merivale,  M.A.,  Late  Professor  of  Mining  in  the  Durham 
College   of    Science,  Newcastle-upon-Tyne.     Fourth   Edition,    Revised  and 
Enlarged,  by  H.  F.  Bulman,  A.M. Inst. C.E.    Small  crown  Svo,  cloth      .  2/6 
"  The  author  has  done  his  work  in  a  creditable  manner,  and  has  produced  a  book  that  will  be  ot 
service  to  students,  and  those  who  are  practically  engaged  in  mining  operations."- — Engineer. 

INFLAMMABLE  GAS  AND  VAPOUR  IN  THE  AIR 

(The  Detection  and  Measurement  of).    By  Frank  Clowes,  D.Sc,  Lond.,  F.I.C. 
With  a  Chapter  on  The  Detection  and  Measurement  of  Petroleum  Vapour, 
by  BovERTON  Redwood,  F.R.S.E.,  Consulting  Adviser  to  the  Corporation  of 
London  under  the  Petroleum  Acts.    Crown  Svo,  cloth       .       .       .      Net  5/- 
"  Professor  Clowes  has  given  us  a  volume  on  a  subject  of  much  industrial  importance.    .    .  . 
Those  interested  in  these  matters  may  be  reconmiended  to  study  this  book,  which  is  easy  of  compre- 
hension and  contains  many  good  things." — TJie  Engineer. 

COAL  &  IRON  INDUSTRIES  OF  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM. 

Comprising  a  Description  of  the  Coal  Fields,  and  of  the  Principal  Seams  of  Coal, 
with  Returns  of  their  Produce  and  its  Distribution,  and  Analyses  of  Special 
Varieties.  Also,  an  Account  of  the  Occurrence  of  Iron  Ores  in  Veins  or  Seams ; 
Analyses  of  each  Variety  ;  and  a  History  of  the  Rise  and  Progress  of  Pig  Iron 

Manufacture.    By  Richard  Meade.    Svo,  cloth  28/- 

"  Of  this  book  we  may  unreservedly  say  that  it  is  the  best  of  its  class  which  we  have  ever  met.  .  .  . 

A  book  of  reference  which  no  one  engaged  in  the  iron  or  coal  trades  should  omit  from  his  library." — 

Iro7i  and  Coal  Trades'  Review. 

ASBESTOS  AND  ASBESTIC, 

Their   Properties,    Occurrence,    and   Use.    By  Robert   H.   Jones,  F.S.A., 
Mineralogist,  Hon.  Mem.  Asbestos  Club,  Black  Lake,  Canada.     With  Ten 
Collotype  Plates  and  other  Illustrations.    Demy  Svo,  cloth      .       .       .  16/- 
"  An  interesting  and  invaluable  work."— Co///eo'  Guardian. 

GRANITES  AND  OUR  GRANITE  INDUSTRIES* 

By  George  F.  Harris,  F.G.S.    With  Illustrations.    Crown  Svo,  cloth  .  2/6 

TRAVERSE  TABLES. 

For  use  in  Mine  Surveying.  By  William  Lintern,  C.E.  With  two  Plates. 
Small  crown  Svo,  cloth  .       .       .       Net  3/- 


ELECTRICITY,  ELECTRICAL  ENGINEERING,  orr. 


23 


ELECTRICAL  ENGINEERING. 


THE  ELEMENTS  OF  ELECTRICAL  ENGINEERING. 

A  First  Year's  Course  for  Students.    By  Tyson  Sevvell,  A.I.E.E.,  Assistant 
Lecturer  and  Demonstrator  in  Electrical  Engineering  at  the  Polytechnic,  Regent 
Street,  London.      Second  Edition,  Revised,  with   Additional   Chapters  on 
Alternating   Current   Working,    and   Appendix   of  Questions  and  Answers. 
450  pages,  with  274  Illustrations.    Demy  8vo,  cloth  [  ]u%t  Published.    Net  7/6 
Ohm's    Law. — Units    Employed    in    Electrical    Engineering. —  Series    and  Parallel 
Circuits;  Current  Density  and  Potential  Drop  in  the  Circuit. — The  Heating  Effect  of 
THE  Electric  Current. — The  Magnetic  Effect  of  an  Electric  Current. — The  Magnetisa- 
tion   OF    Iron.  —  Electro-Chemistry  ;    Primary    Batteries.  —  Accumulators.  —  Indicating 
Instruments;  Ammeters,  Voltmeters,  Ohmmeters. — Electricity  Supply  Meters. — Measuring 
Instruments,  and  the  Measurement  of  Electrical  Resistance. — Measurement  of  Potential 
Difference,  Capacity,  Current  Strength,  and  Permeability. — Arc  Lamps. — Incandescent 
Lamps;  Manufacture  and  Installation;  Photometry. — The  Continuous  Current  Dynamo. 
— Direct  Current   Motors. — Alternating  Currents. — Transformers,    Alternators,  Syn- 
chronous Motors.— Polyphase  Working.— Appendix  of  Questions  and  Answers. 

"  An  excellent  treatise  for  students  of  the  elementary  facts  connected  with  electrical 
engineering." — Tlie  Electrician. 

"One  of  the  best  books  for  those  commencing  the  study  ot  electrical  engineering.  Everything 
is  explained  in  simple  language  which  even  a  beginner  cannot  fail  to  understand." — The  Engineer. 

"  One  welcomes  this  book,  which  is  sound  in  its  treatment,  and  admirably  calculated  to  give 
students  the  knowledge  and  information  they  most  require." — Nature. 

CONDUCTORS  FOR  ELECTRICAL  DISTRIBUTION. 

Their  Materials  and  Manufacture,  The  Calculation  of  Circuits,  Pole-Line  Con- 
struction, Underground  Working,  and  other  Uses.  ByF.'^A.  C.  Perrine,  A.M., 
D.Sc.  ;  formerly  Professor  of  Electrical  Engineering,  Leland  Stanford,  Jr., 
University;  M.A.Inst. E.E.    Demy  8vo,  cloth  [Just  Published.    Net  20/- 

CONDUCTOR  Materials— Alloyed  Conductors — Manufacture  of  Wire — Wire-Finishing — 
Wire  Insulation — Cables — Calculation  of  Circuits — Kelvin's  Law  of  Economy  in  Conduc- 
tors— Multiple  Arc  Distribution — Alternating  Current  Calculation — Overhead  Lines — 
Pole  Line — Line  Insulators — Underground  Conductors. 

"The  book  has  much  to  recommend  it,  and  the  mains  engineer  will  do  well  to  add  it  to  his 
library." — The  Electrician. 

ELECTRICITY  AS  APPLIED  TO  MINING. 

By  Arnold  Lupton,  MJnst.C.E.,  MT.M.E.,  MT.E.E.,  late  Professor  of 
Coal  Mining  at  the  Yorkshire  College,  Victoria  University,  Mining  Engineer 
and  Colliery  Manager  ;  G.  D.  Aspinall  Parr,  M.I.E.E.,  A.M.I.M.E., 
Associate  of  the  Central  Technical  College,  City  and  Guilds  of  London,  Head 
of  the  Electrical  Engineering  Department,  Yorkshire  College,  Victoria  Univer- 
sity ;  and  Herbert  Perkin,  M.I.M.E.,  Certificated  Colliery  Manager, 
Assistant  Lecturer  in  the  Mining  Department  of  the  Yorkshire  College,  Victoria 
University.      With  about  170  Illustrations.    Medium  8vo,  cloth. 

[pst  Published.    Net  9/- 

Introductory. — Dynamic  Electricity. — Driving  of  the  Dynamo. — The  Steam  Turbine. 
Distribution  of  Electrical  Energy. — Starting  and  Stopping  Electrical  Generators  and 
Motors.— Electric  Cables. — Central  Electrical  Plants. — Electricity  applied  to  Pumping 
AND  Hauling.— Electricity  applied  to  Coal-Cutting. — Typical  Electric  Plants  Recently 
Erected. — Electric  Lighting  by  Arc  and  Glow  Lamps. — Miscellaneous  Applications  of 
Electricity. — Electricity  as  Compared  with  Other  Modes  of  Transmitting  Power. — 
Dangers  of  Electricity. 

"The  book  is  a  good  attempt  to  meet  a  growing  want,  and  is  well  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  mining 
engineer's  library."  — r/te  Electrician. 

"  It  is  very  readable  and  instructive,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  considerable  value  to  mining 
engineers." — The  Engineer. 

"The  work  is  well  written,  well  got  up,  and  well  illustrated.  It  is  as  concise  as  possible,  and 
exactly  suited  for  rapid  reference  by  men  to  whom  time  is  an  object  of  the  first  importance." — The 
AthencEum. 

WIRELESS  TELEGRAPHY. 

Its  Origins,  Development,  Inventions,  and  Apparatus.  By  Charles  Henry 
Sewall,  Author  of  "Patented  Telephony,"  "The  Future  of  Long-distance 
Communication."    220  pages,  with  85  Illustrations.    Demy  8vo,  cloth. 

[Just  Published.    Net  10/6 


24 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


DYNAMO  ELECTRIC  MACHINERY:  ITS  CONSTRUCTION, 
DESIGN,  AND  OPERATION. 

By  Samuel  Sheldon,  A.M.,  Ph.D.,  Professor  of  Physics  and  Electrical 
Engineering  at  the  Polytechnic  Institute  of  Brooklyn,  assisted  by  Hobart 
Mason,  B.S. 

In  two  volumes,  sold  separately,  as  follows  : — 
Vol.  I.— DIRECT  CURRENT  MACHINES.   Third  Edition.  Revised.  Large 
Crown  8vo.    280  pages,  with  200  Illustrations      .       .       Net  12/- 
Vol.  II.— ALTERNATING  CURRENT  MACHINES.    Large  Crown  8vo. 

260  pages,  with  184  Illustrations       .....       Net  12/- 
l^Designed  as  Text-books  for  use  in  Technical  Educational  Institutions,  and  by  Engineers  whose 
work  includes  the  handling  of  Direct  and  Alternating  Current  Machines  respectively,  and  for 
Students  proficient  in  mathematics. 

ELECTRICAL  AND  MAGNETIC  CALCULATIONS. 

For  the  Use  of  Electrical  Engineers  and  Artisans,  Teachers,  Students,  and  all 
others  interested  in  the  Theory  and  Application  of  Electricity  and  Magnetism. 
By  A.  A.  Atkinson,  Professor  of  Electricity  in  Ohio  University.    Crown  8vo, 

cloth  Net  Qjm 

"  To  teachers  and  those  who  already  possess  a  fair  knowledge  of  their  subject  we  can  recommend 

this  book  as  being  useful  to  consult  when  requiring  data  or  formulas  which  it  is  neither  convenient 

nor  necessary  to  retain  by  memory." — The  Electrician. 

ARMATURE  WINDINGS  OF  DIRECT  CURRENT  DY^ 

NAMOS, 

Extension  and  Application  of  a  General  "Winding  Rule.  By  E.  Arnold, 
Engineer.  Assistant  Professor  in  Electrotechnics  and  Machine  Design  at  the 
Riga  Polytechnic  School.  Translated  from  the  Original  German  by  Francis 
B.  De  Gress,  M.E.,  Chief  of  Testing  Department,  Crocker- Wheeler  Company. 
With  146  Illustrations.    Medium  8vo,  cloth       .        [Just  Published.    Net  12/- 

SUBMARINE  TELEGRAPHS. 

Their  History,  Construction  and  Working.  Founded  in  part  on  Wunschen- 
dorff's  "Traite  de  Telegraphic  Sous  Marine,"  and  Compiled  from  Authoritative 
and  Exclusive  Sources.  By  Charles  Bright,  F.R.S.E.,  A.M.Inst.C.E.,  M.I.E.E. 
780  pp.,  fully  illustrated,  including  maps  and  folding  plates.    Royal  8vo,  cloth. 

Net  £3  3s. 

"There  are  few,  if  any,  persons  more  fitted  to  write  a  treatise  on  submarine  telegraphy  than  Mr. 
Charles  Bright.  He  has  done  his  work  admirably,  and  has  written  in  a  way  which  will  appeal  as 
much  to  the  layman  as  to  the  engineer.  This  admirable  volume  must  for  many  years  to  come  hold  the 
position  of  the  English  classic  on  submarine  telegraphy." — Engineer. 

"  This  book  is  full  of  information.  It  makes  a  book  of  reference  which  should  be  in  every  engineer's 
library."— A^ahoe. 

"Mr.  Bright's  interestingly  written  and  admirably  illustrated  book  will  meet  with  a  welcome 
reception  from  cable  men."— Electrician. 

"  The  Author  deals  with  his  subject  from  all  points  of  view — political  and  strategical  as  well  as 
scientific— the  work  will  be  of  interest  not  only  to  men  of  science,  but  to  the  general  public.  We  can 
strongly  recommend  it."— Athenceum. 

THE  ELECTRICAL  ENGINEER'S  POCKET-BOOK. 

Consisting  of  Modern  Rules,  Formulae,  Tables,  and  Data.  By  H.  R.  Kempe, 
M.I.E.E.,  A.M.Inst.C.E.,  Technical  Officer,  Postal  Telegraphs,  Author  of 
"A  Handbook  of  Electrical  Testing,"  &c.  Second  Edition,  Thoroughly  Revised, 
with  Additions.   With  numerous  Illustrations.    Royal  32mo,  oblong,  leather  5/- 

"  It  is  the  best  book  of  its  kind."— Electrical  Engineer. 

'I  The  Electrical  Engineer's  Pocket-Book  is  a  good  one."— Electrician. 

"  Strongly  reconmiended  to  those  engaged  in  the  electrical  industries."— E/ecfnca/  Review, 

POWER  TRANSMITTED  BY  ELECTRICITY. 

And  applied  by  the  Electric  Motor,  including  Electric  Railway  Construction. 
By  P.  Atkinson,  A.M.,  Ph.D.  Third  Edition,  fully  Revised,  and  New  Matter 
added.    With  94  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth    ....       Net  9/- 

DYNAMIC  ELECTRICITY  AND  MAGNETISM. 

By  Philip  Atkinson,  A.M..  Ph.D.,  Author  of  "  Elements  of  Static  Electricity," 
&c.    Crown  8vo,  417  pp.,  with  120  Illustrations,  cloth     ....  10/6 


ELECTRICITY,  ELECTRICAL  ENGINEERING,  ^c. 


25 


THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  DYNAMOS, 

A  Handybook  of  Theory  and  Practice  for  the  Use  of  Mechanics,  Engineers, 
Students  and  others  in  Charge  of  Dynamos.  By  G.  W.  Lummis-Paterson. 
Third  Edition,  Revised.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  4/6 

"  An  example  which  deserves  to  be  taken  as  a  model  by  other  authors.  The  subject  is  treated  in  a 
manner  which  any  intelligent  man  who  is  fit  to  be  entrusted  with  charge  of  an  engine  should  be  able  to 
understand.    It  is  a  useful  book  to  all  who  make,  tend  or  employ  electric  machinery." — Architect. 

THE  STANDARD  ELECTRICAL  DICTIONARY. 

A  Popular  Encyclopaedia  of  Words  and  Terms  Used  in  the  Practice  of  Electrical 
Engineering.  Containing  upwards  of  3,000  Definitions.  By  T.  O'Conor  Sloane, 
A.M.,  Ph.D.     Third  Edition,  with   Appendix.     Crown   8vo,   690  pp.,  390 

Illustrations,  cloth  l^et  7/6 

"The  work  has  many  attractive  features  in  it,  and  is,  beyond  doubt,  a  well  put  together  and  useful 

publication.    The  amount  of  ground  covered  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  in  the  index  about 

5,000  references  will  be  found." — Electrical  Revietv. 

ELECTRIC  LIGHT  FITTING, 

A  Handbook  for  Working  Electrical  Engineers,  embodying  Practical  Notes  on 
Installation  Management.  By  J.  W.  Urquhart,  Electrician,  Author  of  "Electric 
Light,"   &c.     With  numerous  Illustrations.     Third  Edition,  Revised,  with 

Additions.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  5/- 

"This  volume  deals  with  the  mechanics  of  electric  lighting,  and  is  addressed  to  men  who  are 
already  engaged  in  the  work,  or  are  training  for  it.  The  work  traverses  a  great  deal  of  ground,  and 
may  be  read  as  a  sequel  to  the  author's  useful  work  on  '  Electric  Light.'  " — Electrician. 

"  The  book  is  well  worth  the  perusal  of  the  workman,  for  whom  it  is  wvhten."— Electrical  Review. 

ELECTRIC  LIGHT. 

Its  Production  and  Use,  Embodying  Plain  Directions  for  the  Treatment  of 
Dynamo-Electric  Machines,  Batteries,  Accumulators,  and  Electric  Lamps.  By 
J.  W.  Urquhart,  C.E.    Sixth  Edition,  Enlarged.    Crown  8vo,  cloth    .  7/6 

"The  whole  ground  of  electric  lighting  is  more  or  less  covered  and  explained  in  a  very  clear  and 
concise  manner." — Electrical  Review. 

"  A  vade-7necuin  of  the  salient  facts  connected  with  the  science  ot  electric  lighting." — Electrician. 

DYNAMO  CONSTRUCTION* 

A  Practical  Handbook  for  the  Use  of  Engineer  Constructors  and  Electricians-in- 
Charge.  Embracing  Framework  Building,  Field  Magnet  and  Armature  Winding 
and  Grouping,  Compounding,  &c.  By  J.  W.  Urquhart.  Second  Edition, 
Enlarged.  With  114  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  ....  7/6 
"  Mr.  Urquhart's  book  is  the  first  one  which  deals  with  these  matters  in  such  a  way  that  the 

engineering  student  can  understand  them.  The  book  is  very  readable,  and  the  author  leads  his  readers 

up  to  difficult  subjects  by  reasonably  simple  tests." — Engineering  Review. 

ELECTRIC  SHIP^LIGHTING. 

A  Handbook  on  the  Practical  Fitting  and  Running  of  Ship's  Electrical  Plant. 
For  the  Use  of  Shipowners  and  Builders,  Marine  Electricians,  and  Sea-going 
Engineers  in  Charge.  By  J.  W.  Urquhart,  C.E.  Second  Edition.  Revised 
and  Extended.  With  88  Illustrations,  crown  8vo,  cloth  ....  7/6 
"The  subject  of  ship  electric  lighting  is  one  of  vast  importance,  and  Mr.  Urquhart  is  to  be  highly 
complimented  for  placing  such  a  valuable  work  at  the  service  of  marine  electricians." — The  Steamship. 

ELECTRIC  LIGHTING  (ELEMENTARY  PRINCIPLES  0¥\ 

By  Alan  A.  Campbell  Swinton,  M.Inst.C.E.,  M.I.E.E.  Fourth  Edition, 
Revised.    With  Sixteen  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth        .       .       .  1/6 

ELECTRIC  LIGHT  FOR  COUNTRY  HOUSES* 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Erection  and  Running  of  Small  Installations,  with 
Particulars  of  the  Cost  of  Plant  and  Working.  By  J.  H.  Knight.  Third 
Edition,  Revised.    Crown  8vo,  wrapper   •  1/- 

HOW  TO  MAKE  A  DYNAMO, 

A  Practical  Treatise  for  Amateurs.  Containing  Illustrations  and  Detailed 
Instructions  for  Constructing  a  Small  Dynamo  to  Produce  the  Electric  Light. 
By  Alfred  Crofts.    Sixth  Edition,  Revised.    Crown  8vo,  cloth        .  2/- 

THE  STUDENT^S  TEXT^BOOK  OF  ELECTRICITY. 

By  H.  M.  Noad,  F.R.S.    650  pp.,  with  470  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth.  9/- 


26 


CA'O.'^By  LOCK  WOOD        SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


ARCHITECTURE,  BUILDING,  ETC. 


PRACTICAL  BUILDING  CONSTRUCTION* 

A  Handbook  for  Students  Preparing  for  Examinations,  and  a  Book  of  Reference 
for  Persons  Engaged  in  Building.  By  John  Parnell  Allen,  Surveyor, 
Lecturer  on  Building  Construction  at  the  Durham  College  of  Science,  Newcastle- 
on-Tyne.  Fourth  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged.  Medium  8vo,  570  pages,  with 
over  1,000  Illustrations,  cloth  ....  '^Just  Pxiblislied.  Net  7/6 
"The  most  complete  exposition  of  building  construction  we  have  seen.  It  contains  all  that  is 
necessary  to  prepare  students  for  the  various  examinations  in  building  construction." — Building  News. 

"The  author  depends  nearly  as  much  on  his  diagrams  as  on  his  type.  The  pages  suggest  the 
hand  of  a  man  of  experience  in  building  operations — and  the  volume  must  be  a  blessing  to  many 
teachers  as  well  as  to  students." — The  Architect. 

"  The  work  is  sure  to  prove  a  formidable  rival  to  great  and  small  competitors  alike,  and  bids  fair 
to  take  a  permanent  place  as  a  favourite  student's  text-book.  The  large  number  of  illustrations  deserve 
particular  mention  for  the  great  merit  they  possess  for  purposes  of  reference,  in  exactly  corresponding 
to  convenient  scales."— /o;/;-.  Inst.  Brit.  Arclits. 

PRACTICAL  MASONRY* 

A  Guide  to  the  Art  of  Stone  Cutting.  Comprising  the  Construction,  Setting-out, 
and  Working  of  Stairs,  Circular  Work,  Arches,  Niches,  Domes,  Pendentives, 
Vaults,  Tracery  Windows,  ^c.  ;  to  which  are  added  Supplements  relating  to 
Masonry  Estimating  and  Quantity  Surveying,  and  to  Building  Stones,  and  a 
Glossary  of  Terms.  For  the  Use  of  Students,  Masons,  and  other  Workmen. 
By  William  R.  Purchase,  Building  Inspector  to  the  Borough  of  Hove. 
Fourth  Edition,  Enlarged.  Royal  8vo,  210  pages,  with  52  Lithographic  Plates, 
comprising  over  400  Diagrams,  cloth    .       .       .        [J^^st  Published.    Net  7/6 

Mr.  Purchase's  '  Practical  Masonry  '  will  undoubtedly  be  found  useful  to  all  interested  in  this 
important  subject,  whether  theoretically  or  practically.  Most  of  the  examples  given  are  from  actual 
work  carried  out,  the  diagrams  being  carefully  drawn.  The  book  is  a  practical  treatise  on  the  subject, 
the  author  himself  having  commenced  as  an  operative  mason,  and  afterwards  acted  as  foreman  mason 
on  many  large  and  important  buildings  prior  to  the  attainment  of  his  present  position.  It  should  be 
found  of  general  utility  to  architectural  students  and  others,  as  well  as  to  those  to  whom  it  is  specially 
addressed."— yo!n'«n/  of  the  Royal  Institute  0/  British  Architects. 

MODERN  PLUMBING, 

STEAM  AND  HOT  WATER  HEATING, 

A  New  Practical  Work  for  the  Plumber,  the  Heating  Engineer,  the  Architect, 
and  the  Builder.  By  J.  J.  Lawler,  Author  of  "American  Sanitary  Plumbing," 
&c.    With  284  Illustrations  and  Folding  Plates.    4to,  cloth      .       .    Net  21/- 

CONCRETE:  ITS  NATURE  AND  USES, 

A  Book  for  Architects,  Builders,  Contractors,  and  Clerks  of  Works.  By  George 
L.  Sutcliffe,  A.R.I.B.A.  350  pages,  with  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  7/6 
"The  author  treats  a  difficult  subject  in  a  lucid  manner.    The  manual  fills  a  long  felt  gap.    It  is 

careful  and  exhaustive;  equally  useful  as  a  student's  guide  and  an  architect's  book  of  reference."— 

Journal  of  Royal  Institute  of  British  Architects. 

LOCKWOOD^S  BUILDER^S  PRICE  BOOK  FOR  1903. 

A  Comprehensive  Handbook  of  the  Latest  Prices  and  Data  for  Builders, 
Architects,  Engineers,  and  Contractors.  Re-constructed,  Re-written,  and 
Greatly  Enlarged.  By  Francis  T.  W.  Miller.  800  closely-printed  pages, 
crown  8vo,  cloth  [Just  Published.  4/- 

"This  book  is  a  very  useful  one,  and  should  find  a  place  in  every  English  office  connected  with  the 
building  and  engineering  lyrofessions."— Industries.    "  An  excellent  book  of  reference."— Architect. 

"  In  its  new  and  revised  form  this  Price  Book  is  what  a  work  of  this  kind  should  Ije— comprehensive, 
reliable,  well  arranged,  legible,  and  well  hound."— British  Architect. 

DECORATIVE  PART  OF  CIVIL  ARCHITECTURE. 

By  Sir  William  Chambers,  F.R.S.  With  Portrait,  Illustrations,  Notes,  and  an 
Examination  of  Grecian  Architecture,  by  Joseph  Gwilt,  F.S.A.  Revised 
and  Edited  by  W.  H.  Leeds.    66  Plates,  4to,  cloth  21  - 


ARCHITECTURE,  BUILDING,  ^c. 


27 


THE  MECHANICS  OF  ARCHITECTURE. 

A  Treatise  on  Applied  Mechanics,  especially  Adapted  to  the  Use  of  Architects. 
By  E.  W.  Tarn,  M.A.,  Author  of  "The  Science  of  Building,"  &c.  Second 
Edition,  Enlarged.    Illustrated  with  125  Diagrams.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  7/6 
"  The  book  is  a  very  useful  and  helpful  manual  of  architectural  mechanics." — Builder. 

A  HANDY  BOOK  OF  VILLA  ARCHITECTURE. 

Being  a  Series  of  Designs  for  Villa  Residences  in  various  Styles.    With  Outline 
Specifications  and  Estimates.    By  C.  Wickes,  Architect,  Author  of  "The  Spires 
and  Towers  of  England, "&c.  61  Plates,  4to,  half-morocco,  gilt  edges  £1  11s.6d. 
"The  whole  of  the  designs  bear  evidence  of  their  being  the  work  of  an  artistic  architect,  and  they 
will  prove  very  valuable  and  suggestive."— Bui! ditig  News. 

THE  ARCHITECTS  GUIDE. 

Being  a  Text-book  of  Useful  Information  for  Architects,  Engineers,  Surveyors, 
Contractors,  Clerks  of  Works,  &c.,  &c.    By  F.  Roger.s.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  3/6 

ARCHITECTURAL  PERSPECTIVE. 

The  whole  Course  and  Operations  of  the  Draughtsman  in  Drawing  a  Large 
House  in  Linear  Perspective.  Illustrated  by  43  Folding  Plates.  By  F.  O. 
Ferguson.    Third  Edition.    8vo,  boards  .       .        [Jjcst  Published.  3/6 

"  It  is  the  most  intelligible  of  the  treatises  on  this  ill-treated  subject  that  I  have  met  with."— 
E.  Ingress  Bell,  Esq.,  in  the  R. LB. A.  Journal. 

PRACTICAL  RULES  ON  DRAWING. 

For  the  Operative  Builder  and  Young  Student  in  Archi'tecture.  By  George 
Pyne.    14  Plates,  4to,  boards     .........  7/6 

MEASURING  AND  VALUING  ARTIFICERS*  WORK 

(The  Student's  Guide  to  the  Practice  of).    Containing  Directions  for  taking 
Dimensions,  Abstracting  the  same,  and  bringing  the  Quantities  into  Bill,  with 
Tables  of  Constants  for  Valuation  of  Labour,  and  for  the  Calculation  of  Areas 
and  Solidities.    Originally  edited  by  E.  Dobson,  Architect.    With  Additions  by 
E.  W.  Tarn,  M.A.    Seventh  Edition,  Revised.  With  8  Plates  and  63  Woodcuts. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth       ...........  7/6 

"This  edition  will  be  found  the  most  complete  treatise  on  the  principles  of  measuring  and  valuing 
artificers'  work  that  has  yet  been  published." — Building  News. 

TECHNICAL  GUIDE,  IVIEASURER,  AND  ESTIMATOR. 

For  Builders  and  Surveyors.  Containing  Technical  Directions  for  Measuring 
Work  in  all  the  Building  Trades,  Complete  Specifications  for  Houses,  Roads,  and 
Drains,  and  an  Easy  Method  of  Estimating  the  parts  of  a  Building  collectively. 
By  A.  C.  Beaton.  Ninth  Edition.  Waistcoat-pocket  size,  gilt  edges  .  1/6 
"  No  builder,  architect,  surveyor,  or  valuer  should  be  without  his  '  Beaton.'  " — Building  News. 

SPECIFICATIONS 

FOR  PRACTICAL  ARCHITECTURE. 

A  Guide  to  the  Architect,  Engineer,  Surveyor,  and  Builder.  With  an  Essay  on 
the  Structure  and  Science  of  Modern  Buildings.  Upon  the  Basis  of  the  Work 
by  Alfred  Bartholomew,  thoroughly  Revised,  Corrected,  and  greatly  added 
to  by  Frederick  Rogers,  Architect.  Third  Edition,  Revised.  8vo,  cloth  15/- 
"The  work  is  too  well  known  to  need  any  recommendation  from  us.  It  is  one  of  the  books  with 
which  every  young  architect  must  be  equipped."--Architect. 

THE  HOUSE'OWNER*S  ESTIMATOR. 

Or,  What  will  it  Cost  to  Build,  Alter,  or  Repair?  A  Price  Book  for  Unpro 
fessional  People,  as  well  as  the  Architectural  Surveyor  and  Builder.  By  J.  D. 
Simon.    Edited  by  F.  T.  W.  Miller,  A.R.I.B.A.     Fifth   Edition,  carefully 

Revised.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  Net  3/6 

"  In  two  years  it  will  repay  its  cost  a  hundred  times  over."— Field. 


28 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


SANITATION  AND  WATER  SUPPLY. 


THE  HEALTH  OFFICER'S  POCKET-BOOK. 

A  Guide  to  Sanitary  Practice  and  Law.     For  Medical  Officers  of  Health, 

Sanitary  Inspectors,  Members  of  Sanitary  Authorities,  &c.    By  Edward  F. 

WiLLOUGHBY,  M.D.  (Loud.),  &c.     Second  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 

Fcap.  8vo,  leather  l<Set  10/6 

"  It  is  a  mine  of  condensed  information  of  a  pertinent  and  useful  kind  on  the  various  subjects  of 
which  it  treats.  The  different  subjects  are  succinctly  but  fully  and  scientifically  dealt  with." — The 
Lancet. 

THE  BACTERIAL  PURIFICATION  OF  SEWAGE: 

Being  a  Practical  Account  of  the  Various  Modern  Biological  Methods  of 
Purifying  Sewage.    By  Sidney  Barwise,  M.D.  (Lond.).    8vo,  cloth.  Net  6/0 

THE  PURIFICATION  OF  SEWAGE* 

Being  a  Brief  Account  of  the  Scientific  Principles  of  Sewage  Purification,  and 
their  Practical  Application.  By  Sidney  Barwise,  M.D.  (Lond.),  M.R.C.S., 
D.P.H.  (Camb.), 'Fellow  of  the  Sanitary  Institute,  Medical  Officer  of  Health  to 
the  Derbyshire  County  Council.    Crown  8vo,  cloth.        ....  5/- 

WATER  AND  ITS  PURIFICATION* 

A  Handbook  for  the  Use  of  Local  Authorities,  Sanitary  Officers,  and  others 
interested  in  Water  Supply.  By  S.  Rideal,  D.Sc,  Lond.,  F.I.C.  Second  Edition, 
Revised,  with  Additions.    Large  crown  8vo,  cloth         .       .       .        Net  9/- 

RURAL  WATER  SUPPLY* 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Supply  of  Water  and  Construction  of  Waterworks 
for  Small  Country  Districts.  By  Allan  Greenwell,  A.M.LC.E.,  and  W.  T. 
Curry,  A.M.LC.E.    Revised  Edition.    Crown  8vo,  cloth       .       .       .  5/- 

THE  WATER  SUPPLY  OF  CITIES  AND  TOWNS* 

By  William  Humber,  A.M.Inst.C.E.,  and  M.Inst.M.E.  Imp.  4to,  half-bound 
morocco.    (See  page  ii)  Net    £6  6s. 

THE  WATER  SUPPLY  OF  TOWNS 

AND  THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF  WATER- WORKS. 

By  Professor  W.  K.  Burton,  A.M.Inst.C.E.  Second  Edition,  Revised  and 
Extended.    Royal  Svo,  cloth.    (See  page  lo)    .       .       .       .       .       £1  5s. 

WATER  ENGINEERING* 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Measurement,  Storage,  Conveyance,  and  Utilisation 
of  Water  for  the  Supply  of  Towns.    By  C.  Slagg,  A.M.Inst.C.E.     .  7/6 

SANITARY  WORK  in  SMALL  TOWNS  AND  VILLAGES* 

By  Charles  Slagg,  A.M.Inst.C.E.    Crown  Svo,  cloth  3/- 

MODERN  PLUMBING, 

STEAM  AND  HOT  WATER  HEATING. 

A  New  Practical  Work  for  the  Plumber,  the  Heating  Engineer,  the  Architect, 
and  the  Builder.  By  J.  J.  Lawler.  With  284  Illustrations  and  Folding  Plates. 
4to,  cloth  ]<iet  21/- 

PLUMBING* 

A  Text-Book  to  the  Practice  of  the  Art  or  Craft  of  the  Plumber.  By  W.  P. 
Buchan.    Ninth  Edition,  Enlarged,  with  500  Illustrations.     Crown  Svo  3/6 

VENTILATION* 

A  Text-Book  to  the  Practice  of  the  Art  of  Ventilating  Buildings.  By  W.  P. 
Buchan,  R.P.    Crown  Svo,  cloth   .  3/6 


CARPENTRY,  TIMBER, 


29 


CARPENTRY,  TIMBER,  ETC. 


THE  ELEMENTARY  PRINCIPLES  OF  CARPENTRY* 

A  Treatise  on  the  Pressure  and  Equilibrium  of  Timber  Framing,  the  Resistance 
of  Timber,  and  the  Construction  of  Floors,  Arches,  Bridges,  Roofs,  Uniting  Iron 
and  Stone  with  Timber,  &c.  To  which  is  added  an  Essay  on  the  Nature  and 
Properties  of  Timber,  &c.,  with  Descriptions  of  the  kinds  of  Wood  used  in 
Building ;  also  numerous  Tables  of  the  Scantlings  of  Timber  for  different 
purposes,  the  Specific  Gravities  of  Materials,  &c.  By  Thomas  Tredgold,  C.E. 
With  an  Appendix  of  Specimens  of  Various  Roofs  of  Iron  and  Stone,  Illustrated. 
Seventh  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised  and  considerably  Enlarged  by  E.  Wyndham 
Tarn,  M.A.,  Author  of  "The  Science  of  Building,"  &c.  With  61  Plates, 
Portrait  of  the  Author,  and  several  Woodcuts.    In  One  large  Vol.,  4to,  cloth. 

£1  5s. 

"  Ought  to  be  in  every  architect's  and  every  builder's  library." — Builder. 

"  A  w^ork  whose  monumental  excellence  must  commend  it  wherever  skilful  carpentry  is  concerned. 
The  author's  principles  are  rather  confirmed  than  impaired  by  time.  The  additional  plates  are  of  great 
intrinsic  value." — Building  Neius. 

WOODWORKING  MACHINERY. 

Its  Rise,  Progress,  and  Construction.    With  Hints  on  the  Management  of  Saw 
Mills  and  the  Economical  Conversion  of  Timber.    Illustrated  with  Examples  of 
Recent  Designs  by  leading  English,  French,  and  American  Engineers.    By  M. 
Powis  Bale,  A.M.Inst.C.E.,  M.I.M.E.     Second  Edition,  Revised,  with  large 
Additions,  large  crown  8vo,  440  pp.,  cloth  .......  9/- 

"  Mr.  Bale  is  evidently  an  expert  on  the  subject,  and  he  has  collected  so  much  information  that  his 
book  is  all-sufficient  for  builders  and  others  engaged  in  the  conversion  of  timtfer." — Architect. 

"  The  most  comprehensive  compendium  of  wood-working  machinery  we  have  seen.  The  author  is 
a  thorough  master  of  his  subject." — Building  News. 

SAW  MILLS* 

Their  Arrangement  and  Management,  and  the  Economical  Conversion  of  Timber. 
(A  Companion  Volume  to  "Woodworking  Machinery.")    By  M.  Powis  Bale, 
A.M.Inst.C.E.    Second  Edition,  Revised.    Crown  8vo,  cloth         .       .  10/6 
"  The  administration  of  a  large  sawing  establishment  is  discussed,  and  the  subject  examined  from  a 
financial  standpoint.    Hence  the  size,  shape,  orHer,  and  disposition  of  saw-mills  and  the  like  are  gone 
into  in  detail,  and  the  course  of  the  timber  is  traced  from  its  reception  to  its  delivery  in  its  converted 
state.   We  could  not  desire  a  more  complete  or  practical  treatise." — Builder. 

THE  CARPENTER*S  GUIDE. 

Or,  Book  of  Lines  for  Carpenters ;  comprising  all  the  Elementary  Principles 
essential  for  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  Carpentry.  Founded  on  the  late  Peter 
Nicholson's  standard  work.  A  New  Edition,  Revised  by  Arthur  Ashpitel, 
F.S.A.  Together  with  Practical  Rules  on  Drawing,  by  George  Pyne.  With 
74  Plates,  4to,  cloth  £1  Is. 

A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  HANDRAILING. 

Showing  New  and  Simple  Methods  for  Finding  the  Pitch  of  the  Plank,  Drawing 
the  Moulds,  Bevelling,  Jointing-up,  and  Squaring  the  Wreath.     By  George 
Collings.     Second  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged,  to  which  is  added  A 
Treatise  on  Stair-building.    With  Plates  and  Diagrams.    lamo,  cloth  2/6 
"Will  be  found  of  practical  utility  in  the  execution  of  this  difficult  branch  of  joinery."— 
"Almost  every  difficult  phase  of  this  somewhat  intricate  branch  of  joinery  is  elucidated  by  the  aid 
ot  plates  and  explanatory  lettevpress."— Furniture  Gazette. 

CIRCULAR  WORK  IN  CARPENTRY  AND  JOINERY. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Circular  Work  of  Single  and  Double  Curvature.  By 
George  Collings.    With  Diagrams.    Third  Edition,  i2mo,  cloth  .       .  2/6 
"  An  excellent  example  of  what  a  book  of  this  kind  should  be.    Cheap  in  price,  clear  in  definition, 
and  practical  in  the  examples  selected." — Builder. 

THE  CABINET-^MAKER^S  GUIDE 

TO  THE  ENTIRE  CONSTRUCTION  OF  CABINET  WORK. 

Including  Veneering,  Marquetrie,  Buhlwork,  Mosaic,  Inlaying,  &c.  By  Richard 
BiTMEAD.  Illustrated  with  Plans,  Sections,  and  Working  Drawings.  Crown  8vo, 
cloth   2'6 


30 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  6-  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


HANDRAILING  COMPLETE  IN  EIGHT  LESSONS. 

On  the  Square-Cut  System.  By  J.  S.  Goldthorp,  Teacher  of  Geometry  and 
Building  Construction  at  the  Hahfax  Mechanics'  Institute.    With  Eight  Plates 

and  over  150  Practical  Exercises.    4to,  cloth  3/6 

"  Likely  to  be  of  considerable  value  to  joiners  and  others  who  take  a  pride  in  good  work.  The 

arrangement  of  the  book  is  excellent.    We  heartily  commend  it  to  teachers  and  students."— Timfcey 

Trades  Journal. 

TIMBER  MERCHANT'S  &  BUILDER'S  COMPANION. 

Containing  New  and  Copious  Tables  of  the  Reduced  Weight  and  Measurement 
of  Deals  and  Battens,  of  all  sizes,  and  other  useful  Tables  for  the  use  of 
Timber  Merchants  and  Builders.    By  William  Dowsing.     Fourth  Edition, 

Revised  and  Corrected.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  3/- 

"  We  are  glad  to  see  a  fourth  edition  of  these  admirable  tables,  which  for  correctness  and  simplicity 
of  arrangement  leave  nothing  to  be  desired."  —  Timber  Trades  Journal. 

THE  PRACTICAL  TIMBER  MERCHANT* 

Being  a  Guide  for  the  use  of  Building  Conti-actors,  Surveyors,  Builders,  &c.^ 
comprising  useful  Tables  for  all  purposes  connected  with  the  Timber  Trade, 
Marks  of  Wood,  Essay  on  the  Strength  of  Timber,  Remarks  on  the  Growth  of 
Timber,  &c.  By  W.  Richardson.  Second  Edition.  Fcap.  8vo,  cloth  .  3/6 
"  This  handy  manual  contains  much  valuable  information  for  the  use  of  timber  merchants,  builders, 

foresters,  and  all  others  oonnected  with  the  growth,  sale,  and  manufacture  of  timber."— Jojirna/  of 

Forestry. 

PACKING-CASE  TABLES* 

Showing  the  number  of  Superficial  Feet  in  Boxes  or  Packing-Cases,  from  six 
inches  square  and  upwards.  By  W.  Richardson,  Timber  Broker.  Third 
Edition.    Oblong  4to,  cloth  3/6 

"  Invaluable  labour-saving  tcih\es."— Ironmonger. 

"  Will  save  much  labour  and  calculation." — Grocer. 

GUIDE  TO  SUPERFICIAL  MEASUREMENT* 

Tables  calculated  from  i  to  200  inches  in  length,  by  i  to  108  inches  in  breadth. 
For  the  use  of  Architects,  Surveyors,  Engineers,  Timber  Merchants,  Builders, 
&c.    By  James  Hawkings.    Fifth  Edition.    Fcap.,  cloth       .       .       .  3/6 
"  These  tables  will  be  found  of  great  assistance  to  all  who  require  to  make  calculations  in  superficial 
measurement."— £ng-/is/j  Mechanic. 

PRACTICAL  FORESTRY* 

And  its  Bearing  on  the  Improvement  of  Estates.     By  Charles  E.  Curtis, 
F.S.I.,  Professor  of  Forestry,  Field  Engineering,  and  General  Estate  Manage- 
ment, at  the  College  of  Agriculture,  Downton.     Second  Edition,  Revised. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth        ...........  3/6 

Prefatory  Remarks.— Objects  of  Planting.— Choice  of  a  Forester. — Choice  of  Soil  and 
Site.— Laving  Out  of  Land  for  Plantations.— Preparation  of  the  Ground  for  Planting. — 
Drainage. — Planting. — Distances  and  Distribution  of  Trees  in  Plantations. — Trees  and 
Ground  Game. — Attention  after  Planting. — Thinning  of  Plantations. — Pruning  of  Forest 
Trees. — Realization. — Methods  of  Sale. — Measurement  of  Timber. — Measurement  and 
Valuation  of  Larch  Plantation. — Fire  Links. — Cost  of  Planting. 

"  Mr.  Curtis  has  in  the  course  of  a  -^^e^ies  of  short  pithy  chapters  afforded  much  information  of  a 
useful  and  practical  character  on  the  planting  and  subsequent  treatment  of  trees." — Illustrated  Carpenter 
and  Builder. 

THE  ELEMENTS  OF  FORESTRY. 

Designed  to  afford  Information  concerning  the  Planting  and  Care  of  Forest 
Trees  for  Ornament  or  Profit,  with  suggestions  upon  the  Creation  and  Care  of 
Woodlands.    By  F.  B.  Hough.    Large  crown  8vo,  cloth        .       .       .  10/- 

TIMBER  IMPORTER'S,  TIMBER  MERCHANTS, 

AND  BUILDER^S  STANDARD  GUIDE. 

By  Richard  E.  Grandy.  Comprising: — An  Analysis  of  Deal  Standards,  Home 
and  Foreign,  with  Comparative  Values  and  Tabular  Arrangements  for  fixing  Net 
Landed  Cost  on  Baltic  and  North  American  Deals,  including  all  intermediate 
Expenses,  Freight,  Lisurance,  &c.  &c.  ;  together  with  copious  Information  for 
the  Retailer  and  Builder.  Third  Edition,  Revised.  lamo,  cloth  .  .  2/- 
"  Everything  it  pretends  to  be  :  built  up  gradually,  it  leads  one  from  a  forest  to  a  treenail,  and  throws 
in,  as  a  makeweight,  a  host  of  material  concerning  bricks,  columns,  cisterns,  &c."— English  Mechanic. 


DECORATIVE  ARTS,  &^c: 


DECORATIVE  ARTS,  ETC. 


SCHOOL  OF  PAINTING  FOR  THE  IMITATION  OF 

WOODS  AND  MARBLES. 

As  Taught  and  Practised  by  A.  R.  Van  der  Burg  and  P.  Van  der  Burg,, 
Directors  of  the  Rotterdam  Painting  Institution.  Royal  foHo,  i8^  by  i2|  in., 
Ilkistrated  with  24  full-size  Coloured  Plates;  also  12  plain  Plates,  comprising 
154  Figures.    Fourth  Edition,  cloth         .       .        [Just  Published.    Net  25s. 

List  of  Plates. 

I.  Various  Tools  Required  for  Wood  Painting. — 2,  3.  Walnut  ;  Preliminary  Stages  of 
Graining  and  Finished  Specimen. — 4.  Tools  used  for  Marble  Painting  and  Method  of 
Manipulation. — 5,  6.  St.  Remi  Marble  ;  Earlier  Operations  and  Finished  Specimen. — 
7.  Methods  of  Sketching  Different  Grains,  Knots,  &c. — 8,9.  Ash  :  Preliminary  Stages  and 
Finished  Specimen.— id.  Methods  of  Sketching  Marble  Grains.— ii,  12.  Breche  Marble; 
Preliminary  Stages  of  Working  and  Finished  Specimen. — 13.  Maple  ;  Methods  of  Producing 
the  Different  Grains. — 14,  15.  Bird's-Eye  Maple  ;  Preliminary  Stages  and  Finished 
Specimen. — 16.  Methods  of  Sketching  the  Different  Species  of  White  Marble. — 17,  18. 
White  Marble;  Preliminary  Stages  of  Process  and  Finished  Specimen. — 19.  Mahogany; 
Specimen  of  Various  Grains  and  Methods  of  Manipulation. — 20,  21.  Mahogany  ;  Earlier 
Stages  and  Finished  Specimen. — 22,23,24.  Sienna  Marble;  Varieties  of  Grain,  Preliminary 
Stages  and  Finished  Specimen. — 25,  26,  27.  Juniper  Wood  ;  Methods  of  Producing  Grain, 
&c.  ;  Preliminary  Stages  and  Finished  Specimen. — 28,  29,  30.  Vert  de  Mer  Marble;  Varieties. 
OF  Grain  and  Methods  of  Working,  Unfinished  and  Finished  Specimens. — 31,  32,  33.  Oak  ; 
Varieties  of  Grain,  Tools  Employed  and  Methods  of  Manipulation,  Preliminary  Stages 
and  Finished  Specimen.— 34,  35,36.  Waulsort  Marble;  Varieties  of  Grain,  Unfinished  and 
Finished  Specimens. 

"  Those  who  desire  to  attain  skill  in  the  art  of  painting  woods  and  marbles  will  find  advantage  in 
consulting  this  book.  .  .  .  Some  of  the  Working  Men's  Clubs  should  give  their  young  men  the- 
opportunity  to  study  it."— Builder. 

"  A  comprehensive  guide  to  the  art.  The  explanations  of  the  processes,  the  manipulation  and 
management  of  the  colours,  and  the  beautifully  executed  plates  will  not  be  the  least  valuable  to  the 
student  who  aims  at  making  his  work  a  faithful  transcript  of  nature." — Btiilciing  News. 

"  Students  and  novices  are  fortunate  who  are  able  to  become  the  possessors  of  so  noble  a  work." — 
The  A  rcliitect. 

ELEMENTARY  DECORATION. 

A  Guide  to  the  Simpler  Forms  of  Everyday  Art.  Together  with  PRACTICAL 
HOUSE  DECORATION.  By  James  W.  Facey.  With  numerous  Illustrations. 
In  One  Vol.,  strongly  half-bound  5/-- 

HOUSE'PAINTING,  GRAINING,  MARBLING, 

AND  SIGN  WRITING, 

A  Practical  Manual  of.     By  Ellis  A.  Davidson.     Eighth  Edition.  With 
Coloured  Plates  and  Wood  Engravings.    Crown  8vo,  cloth     .       .       .  6/-- 
"  A  mass  of  information,  of  use  to  the  amateur  and  of  value  to  the  practical  man." — English  Mechanic. 

THE  DECORATOR'S  ASSISTANT. 

A  Modern  Guide  for  Decorative  Artists  and  Amateurs,  Painters,  Writers,  Gilders, 
&c.  Containing  upwards  of  600  Receipts,  Rules  and  Instructions;  with  a  variety 
of  Information  for  General  Work  connected  with  every  Class  of  Interior  and 
Exterior  Decorations,  &c.    Seventh  Edition.    152  pp.,  crown  8vo,  in  wrapper. 

1/- 

''  Full  of  receipts  of  value  to  decorators,  painters,  gilders,  &c.  The  book  contains  the  gist  of  larger 
treatises  on  colour  and  technical  processes.  It  would  be  difficult  to  meet  with  a  work  so  full  of  varied 
information  on  the  painter's  a.xt."— Building  News. 

MARBLE  DECORATION 

And  the  Terminology  of  British  and  Foreign  Marbles.  A  Handbook  for 
Students.  By  George  H.  Blagrove,  Author  of  "  Shoring  and  its  Application," 
&c.    With  28  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  3/6 

"This  most  useful  and  much  wanted  handbook  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  architect  and^ 
builder." — Building  World. 

"  A  carefully  and  usefully  written  treatise  ;  the  work  is  essentially  practical,"— Sco^s;ua«. 


32 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


DELAMOTTE'S  WORKS  ON  ILLUMINATION 
AND  ALPHABETS. 


ORNAMENTAL  ALPHABETS,  ANCIENT  &  MEDIEVAL* 

From  the  Eighth  Century,  with  Numerals ;  including  Gothic,  Church-Text,  large 
and  small,  German,  Italian,  Arabesque,  Initials  for  Illumination,  Monograms, 
Crosses,  &c.  &c.,  for  the  use  of  Architectural  and  Engineering  Draughtsmen, 
Missal  Painters,  Masons,  Decorative  Painters,  Lithographers,  Engravers,  Carvers, 
&c.  &c.  Collected  and  Engraved  by  F.  Delamotte,  and  Printed  in  Colours. 
New  and  Cheaper  Edition.  Royal  8vo,  oblong,  ornamental  boards  .  2/6 
"  For  those  who  insert  enamelled  sentences  round  gilded  chalices,  who  blazon  shop  legends  over 

shop-doors,  who  letter  church  walls  with  pithy  sentences  from  the  Decalogue,  this  book  will  be  useful." 

— Athena'uin. 

MODERN  ALPHABETS,  PLAIN  AND  ORNAMENTAL. 

Including  German,  Old  English,  Saxon,  Italic,  Perspective,  Greek,  Hebrew, 
Court  Hand,  Engrossing,  Tuscan,  Riband,  Gothic,  Rustic,  and  Arabesque ;  with 
several  Original  Designs,  and  an  analysis  of  the  Roman  and  Old  English 
Alphabets,  large  and  small,  and  Numerals,  for  the  use  of  Draughtsmen,  Sur- 
veyors, Masons,  Decorative  Painters,  Lithographers,  Engravers,  Carvers,  &c. 
Collected  and  Engraved  by  F.  Delamotte,  and  printed  in  Colours.  New  and 
Cheaper  Edition.  Royal  8vb,  oblong,  ornamental  boards  .  .  .  2/6 
"There  is  comprised  in  it  every  possible  shape  into  which  the  letters  of  the  alphabet  and  numerals 

can  be  formed,  and  the  talent  which  has  been  expended  in  the  conception  of  the  various  plain  and 

ornamental  letters  is  wonderiu\."— Standard. 

MEDIAEVAL  ALPHABETS  AND  INITIALS* 

By  F.  G.  Delamotte.  Containing  21  Plates  and  Illuminated  Title,  printed  in 
Gold  and  Colours.  With  an  Introduction  by  J.  Willis  Brooks.  Fifth 
Edition.    Small  4to,  ornamental  boards   ......       Net  5/- 

"  A  volume  in  which  the  letters  of  the  alphabet  come  forth  glorified  in  gilding  and  all  the  colours  of 
the  prism  interwoven  and  intertwined  and  intermingled." — Stin. 

A  PRIMER  OF  THE  ART  OF  ILLUMINATION* 

For  the  Use  of  Beginners ;  with  a  Rudimentary  Treatise  on  the  Art,  Practical 
Directions  for  its  Exercise,  and  Examples  taken  from  Illuminated  MSS.,  printed 
in  Gold  and  Colours,    By  F.  Delamotte.    New  and  Cheaper  Edition.  Small 
4to,  ornamental  boards       ..........  6/- 

"The  examples  of  ancient  MSS.  recommended  to  the  student,  which,  with  much  good  sense,  the 

author  chooses  from  collections  accessible  to  all,  are  selected  with  judgment  and  knowledge,  as  well  as 

taste." — Athencenin. 

THE  EMBROIDERER*S  BOOK  OF  DESIGN, 

Containing   Initials,  Emblems,   Cyphers,   Monograms,   Ornamental  Borders, 
Ecclesiastical  Devices,  Mediaeval  and  Modern  Alphabets,  and  National  Emblems. 
Collected  by   F.  Delamotte,  and  printed  in  Colours.    Oblong  royal  8vo, 
ornamental  wrapper   ..........      Net  2/- 

"The  book  will  be  of  great  assistance  to  ladies  and  young  children  who  are  endowed  with  the  art 
of  plying  the  needle  in  this  most  ornamental  and  useful  pretty  work." — East  Anglian  Times. 


WOOD  CARVING  FOR  AMATEURS* 

With  Hints  on  Design.    By  A  Lady.    With  Ten  Plates.    New  and  Cheaper 
Edition.    Crown  8vo,  in  emblematic  wrapper   ......  2/- 

"The  handicraft  of  the  wood-carver,  so  well  as  a  book  can  impart  it,  may  be  learnt  from 'A 
Lady's '  publication." — A  thena'um. 

PAINTING  POPULARLY  EXPLAINED* 

By  Thomas  John  Gullick,  Painter,  and  John  Times,  F.S.A.  Including  Fresco, 
Oil,  Mosaic,  Water  Colour,  Water-Glass,  Tempera,  Encaustic,  Miniature,  Painting 
on  Ivory,  Vellum,  Pottery,  Enamel,  Glass,  &c.  Fifth  Edition.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  5/- 

Adopted  as  a  Prize  book  at  South  Kensington. 
"  Much  may  be  learned,  even  by  those  who  fancy  they  do  not  require  to  be  taught,  from  the  careful 
perusal  of  this  unpretending  but  comprehensive  tre-dtise."— Art  Journal. 


NATURAL  SCIENCE,  ^'c. 


33 


NATURAL  SCIENCE,  ETC. 


THE  VISIBLE  UNIVERSE. 

Chapters  on  the  Origin  and  Construction  of  the  Heavens.    By  J.  E.  Gore, 

F.  R.A.S.,  Author  of  "  Star  Groups,"  &c.  Illustrated  by  6  Stellar  Photographs  and 
12  Plates.    Demy  8vo,  doth   16/- 

STAR  GROUPS. 

A  Student's  Guide  to  the  Constellations.  By  J.  Ellard  Gore,  F.R.A.S., 
M.R.I.A.,&c.,  Author  of  "The  Visible  Universe,"  "The  Scenery  of  the  Heavens," 
&c.    With  30  Maps.    Small  4to,  cloth  5/- 

AN  ASTRONOMICAL  GLOSSARY. 

Or,  Dictionary  of  Terms  used  in  Astronomy.  With  Tables  of  Data  and  Lists  of 
Remarkable  and  Interesting  Celestial  Objects.  By  J.  Ellard  Gore,  F.R.A.S., 
Author  of  "  The  Visible  Universe,"  &c.    Small  crown  8vo,  cloth     .       .  2/6 

THE  MICROSCOPE. 

Its  Construction  and  Management.  Including  Technique,  Photo-micrography, 
and  the  Past  and  Future  of  the  Microscope.  By  Dr.  Henri  van  Heurck. 
Re-edited  and  Augmented  from  the  Fourth  French  Edition,  and  Translated  by 
Wynne  E.  Baxter,  F.G.S.    Imp.  8vo,  cloth  18/- 

A  MANUAL  OF  THE  MOLLUSCA. 

A  Treatise  on  Recent  and  Fossil  Shells.  By  S.  P.  Woodward,  A.L.S.,  F.G.S. 
With  an  Appendix  on  Recent  and  Fossil  Conchological  Discoveries,  by 
Ralph  Tate,  A.L.S.,  F.G.S.  With  23  Plates  and  upwards  of  300  Woodcuts. 
Reprint  of  Fourth  Edition  (1880).    Crown  8vo,  cloth      ....  7/6 

THE  TWIN  RECORDS  OF  CREATION. 

Or,  Geology  and  Genesis,  their  Perfect  Harmony  and  Wonderful  Concord.  By 

G.  W.  V.  LE  Vaux.    8vo,  cloth  5/- 

LARDNER*S  HANDBOOKS  OF  SCIENCE. 

HANDBOOK  OF  MECHANICS*    Enlarged  and  re-written  by  B.  Loewy, 
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HANDBOOK  OF  HYDROSTATICS  AND  PNEUMATICS,  Revised 
and  Enlarged  by  B.  Loewy,  F.R.A.S.    Post  8vo,  cloth    .       .       .  5/- 

HANDBOOK  OF  HEAT,    Edited  and  re-written  by  B.  Loewy,  F.R.A  S. 
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HANDBOOK  OF  OPTICS.    New  Edition.    Edited  by  T.  Olver  Harding, 
B.A.    Small  8vo,  cloth  5/- 

ELECTRICITY,  MAGNETISM  AND  ACOUSTICS.  Edited  by  Geo.  C. 
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HANDBOOK    OF    ASTRONOMY.     Revised  and  Edited  by  Edwin 
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MUSEUM  OF  SCIENCE  AND  ART.  With  upwards  of  1,200  Engravings. 
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NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY  FOR  SCHOOLS  .      .  3/6 

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THE   ELECTRIC   TELEGRAPH.    Revised  by  E.  B.  Bright,  F.R.A.S. 
Fcap.  8vo,  cloth  2/6 


34  CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 

CHEMICAL  MANUFACTURES, 
CHEMISTRY,  ETC. 

THE  OIL  FIELDS  OF  RUSSIA  AND  THE  RUSSIAN 

OIL  INDUSTRY, 

Comprising  a  Complete  Account  of  the'  Physical  Features  and  Productions  of  the 
Russian  Oil  Regions,  and  a  Practical  Guide  to  the  Exploration,  Exploitation, 
and  Management  of  Oil  Properties  in  Russia  and  elsewhere.  By  A.  Beeby 
Thompson,  A.M.Inst.M.E.,  Chief  Engineer  and  Manager  of  the  European 
Petroleum  Company.    Super-royal  8vo,  with  Plates  and  other  Illustrations. 

{In  the  Press.    Price  about  30/-  net. 

THE  ANALYSIS  OF  OILS  and  ALLIED  SUBSTANCES. 

By  A.  C.  Wright,  M.A.Oxon.,  B.Sc.Lond.,  formerly  Assistant  Lecturer  in 
Chemistry  at  the  Yorkshire  College,  Leeds,  and  Lecturer  in  Chemistry  at  the 
Hull  Technical  School.    Demy  8vo,  cloth  .  {Just  Published.    Net  9/- 

The  Occurrence  and  Composition  of  Oils,  Fats,  and  Waxes. — The  Physical  Properties 
OF  Oils,  Fats,  and  Waxes,  and  their  Determination. — The  Chemical  Properties  of  Oils, 
Fats,  and  Waxes  from  the  Analytical  Standpoint. — Detection  and  Determination  of 
Non-Fatty  Constituents. — Methods  for  Estimating  the  Constituents  of  Oils  and  Fats. — 
Description  and  Properties  of  the  More  Important  Oils,  Fats,  and  Waxes,  with  the 
Methods  for  their  Investigation. — The  Examination  of  Certain  Commercial  Products. 

"The  book  fills  a  decided  want.  The  author  appears  to  have  succeeded  in  the  task  he  has  set 
himself,  and  the  subject-matter  is  carefully  brought  up  to  date."— iVa/Mre. 

THE  GAS  ENGINEER'S  POCKET  BOOK. 

Comprising  Tables,   Notes  and  Memoranda  relating   to   the  Manufacture^ 
Distribution  and  Use  of  Coal  Gas  and  the  Construction  of  Gas  Works.  By 
H.  O'Connor,  A.M. Inst. C.E.  Second  Edition,  Revised.  Crown  8vo,  leather  10/6 
"The  book  contains  a  vast  amount  ot  information.    The  author  has  certainly  succeeded  in  making 
a  compilation  of  hard  matters  of  fact  absolutely  interesting  to  read." — Gas  World. 

"Contains  a  great  quantity  of  specialised  information,  compiled  from  trustworthy  sources,  which 
should  make  it  of  considerable  value  to  those  for  whom  it  is  specifically  produced." — Engineer. 

LIGHTING  BY  ACETYLENE 

Generators,  Burners  and  Electric  Furnaces.  By  William  E.  Gibbs,  M.E. 
With  Sixty-six  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth      .       .       .  7/© 

ENGINEERING  CHEMISTRY. 

A  Practical  Treatise  for  the  Use  of  Analytical  Chemists,  Engineers,  Iron 
Masters,  Iron  Founders,  Students  and  others.  Comprising  Methods  of  Analysis 
and  Valuation  of  the  Principal  Materials  used  in  Engineering  Work,  with 
numerous  Analyses,  Examples  and  Suggestions.  By  H.  Joshua  Phillips, 
F.I.C.,  F.C.S.  Third  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged.  420  pages,  with  Plates 
and  other  Illustrations.  Large  crown  8vo,  cloth  ....  Net  10/6 
"  In  ihis  work  the  author  has  rendered  no  small  service  to  a  numerous  body  of  practical  men. 

The  analytical  methods  may  be  pronounced  most  satisfactory,  being  as  accurate  as  the  despatch  required 

of  engineering  chemists  permits."— C/jewfica/  News. 

NITRO'EXPLOSIVES. 

A  Practical  Treatise  concerning  the  Properties,  Manufacture,  and  Analysis  of 
Nitrated  Substances,  including  the  Fulminates,  Smokeless  Powders  and  Cellu- 
loid.   By  P.  Gerald  Sanford,  F.I.C.,.  Consulting  Chemist  to  the  Cotton 
Powder  Company,  Limited,  &c.    With  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth   .  9/- 
"  One  of  the  very  few  text-books  in  which  can  be  found  just  what  is  wanted.   Mr.  Sanford  goes 
steadily  through  the  whole  list  of  explosives  commonly  used,  he  names  any  given  explosive  and  tells  us 
of  what  it  is  composed  and  how  it  is  manufactured.  The  book  is  excellent  throughout."— T/ze  Engineer. 

A  HANDBOOK  ON  MODERN  EXPLOSIVES, 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  and  Use  of  Dynamite,  Gun-Cotton, 
Nitro-Glycerine,  and  other  Explosive  Compounds,  including  Collodion-Cotton. 
With  Chapters  on  Explosives  in  Practical  Application.    By  M.  Eissler,  M.E. 

Second  Edition,  Enlarged.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  12/6 

"  A  veritable  mine  of  information  on  the  subject  of  explosives  employed  for  military,  mining  and 
blastmg  purposes."—^  r'niy  and  Navy  Gazette. 


CHEMICAL  MANUFACTURES,  CHEMISTRY,  ^c. 


35 


DANGEROUS  GOODS. 

Their  Sources  and  Properties,  Modes  of  Storage  and  Transport.  With  Notes 
and  Comments  on  Accidents  arising  therefrom.  A  Guide  for  the  Use  of  Govern- 
ment and  Railway  Officials,  Steamship  Owners,  &c.    By  H.  Joshua  Phillips, 

F.I.C.,  F.C.S.    Crown  8vo,  374  pages,  cloth  9/- 

"  Merits  a  wide  circulation  and  an  intelligent,  appreciative  study."— C/zewicai  N&ws. 

A  MANUAL  OF  THE  ALKALI  TRADE. 

Including  the  Manufacture  of  Sulphuric  Acid,  Sulphate  of  Soda,  and  Bleaching 
Powder.    By  John  Lomas,  Alkali  Manufacturer.    With  232  Illustrations  and 
Working  Drawings.  Second  Edition,  with  Additions.  Royal  8vo,  cloth  iBI  lOs. 
"  Not  merely  a  sound  and  luminous  explanation  of  the  chemical  principles  of  the  trade,  but  a  notice 
of  numerous  matters  which  have  a  most  important  bearing  on  the  successful  conduct  of  alkali  works, 
but  which  are  generally  overlooked  by  even  experienced  technological  authors."— C/ze;;u'ca/  Review. 

THE  BLOWPIPE  IN  CHEMISTRY,  MINERALOGY,  Etc- 

Containing  all  known  Methods  of  Anhydrous  Analysis,  many  Working  Examples, 
and  Instructions  for  Making  Apparatus.    By  Lieut. -Colonel  W.  A.  Ross,  R.A., 
F.G.S.    Second  Edition,  Enlarged.    Crown  8vo,  cloth    ....  5/- 
"The  student  who  goes  conscientiously  through  the  course  of  experimentation  here  laid  down  will 
gain  a  better  insight  into  inorganic  chemistry  and  mineralogy  than  if  he  had  'got  up  '  any  of  the  best 
text-books  of  the  day,  and  passed  any  number  of  examinations  in  their  contents."— C/te;;iJca/  News. 

THE  MANUAL  OF  COLOURS  AND  DYE^WARES. 

Their  Properties,  Applications,  Valuations,  Impurities,  and  Sophistications. 
For  the  Use  of  Dyers,  Printers,  Drysalters,  Brokers,  &c.    By  J.  W.  Slater. 
Second  Edition,  Revised  and  greatly  Enlarged.    Crown  8.vo,  cloth  7/6 
"  There  is  no  other  work  which  covers  precisely  the  same  ground.   To  students  preparing  for 
examinations  in  dyeing  and  printing  it  will  prove  exceedingly  useful."— C/iewica/  News. 

A  HANDYBOOK  FOR  BREWERS. 

Being  a  Practical  Guide  to  the  Art  of  Brewing  and  Malting.  Embracing  the 
Conclusions  of  Modern  Research  which  bear  upon  the  Practice  of  Brewing.  By 
Herbert  Edwards  Wright,  M.A.    Second  Edition,  Enlarged.    Crown  8vo, 

530  pp.,  cloth  12/6 

"  May  be  consulted  with  advantage  by  the  student  who  is  preparing  himself  for  examinational 
tests,  while  the  scientific  brewer  will  find  in  it  a  y&sume  of  all  the  most  important  discoveries  of  modern 
times.  The  work  is  written  throughout  in  a  clear  and  concise  manner,  and  the  author  takes  great  care 
to  discriminate  between  vague  theories  and  well-established  facts." — Brewers'  Journal. 

"We  have  great  pleasure  in  recommending  this  handybook,  and  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that 
it  is  one  of  the  best — if  not  the  best — which  has  yet  been  written  on  the  subject  of  beer-brewing  in  this, 
country,  it  should  have  a  place  on  the  shelves  of  every  brewer's  library." — Brewers'  Guardian. 

"  Although  the  requirements  of  the  student  are  primarily  considered,  an  acquaintance  of  half-an- 
hour's  duration  cannot  fail  to  impress  the  practical  brewer  with  the  sense  of  having  found  a  trustworthy 
guide  and  practical  counsellor  in  brewery  matters."— C/tewica/  Trade  Journal. 

FUELS:  SOLID,  LIQUID,  AND  GASEOUS. 

Their  Analysis  and  Valuation.  For  the  Use  of  Chemists  and  Engineers.  By 
H.  J.  Phillips,  F.C.S.,  Formerly  Analytical  and  Consulting  Chemist  to  the 
Great  Eastern  Railway.    Third  Edition.     Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  2/- 

"  Ought  to  have  its  place  in  the  laboratory  of  every  metallurgical  establishment,  and  wherever  fuel 
is  used  on  a  large  scale." — Chemical  News. 

THE  ARTISTS*  MANUAL  OF  PIGMENTS* 

Showing  their  Composition,  Conditions  of  Permanency,  Non-Permanency,  and 
Adulterations,  &c.,  with  Tests  of  Purity.  By  H.  C.  Standage.  Third  Edition, 
crown  8vo,  cloth        ...........  2/6 

"This  work  is  indeed  multum-in-parvo,  and  we  can,  with  good  conscience,  recommend  it  to  all  who 
come  in  contact  with  pigments,  whether  as  makers,  dealers,  or  users."— Chemical  Review. 

A  POCKET-BOOK  OF  MENSURATION  &  GAUGING. 

Containing  Tables,  Rules,  and  Memoranda  for  Revenue  Officers,  Brewers,  Spirit 
Merchants,  &c.    By  J.  B.  Mant  (Inland  Revenue).    Second  Edition,  Revised, 

i8mo,  leather  4./- 

"  Should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  practical  htewev."— Brewers'  Journal. 

C  2 


36 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  6-  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


INDUSTRIAL  ARTS,  TRADES  AND 
MANUFACTURES. 

TEA  MACHINERY  AND  TEA  FACTORIES. 

A  Descriptive  Treatise  on  the  Mechanical  Appliances  required  in  the  Cultivation 
of  the  Tea  Plant  and  the  Preparation  of  Tea  for  the  Market.  By  A.  J.  Wallis- 
Tavler,  A.M. Inst. C.E.    Medium  8vo,  468  pp.    With  218  Illustrations. 

Net  25/- 

SUMMARY  OF  CONTENTS. 

Mfxhanical  Cultivation  or  Tillage  of  the  Soil. — Plucking  or  Gathering  the  Leaf. — 
Tea  Factories.  — The  Dressing,  Manufacture,  or  Preparation  of  Tea  by  Mechanical 
Means.— Artificial  Withering  of  the  Leaf.— Machines  for  Rolling  or  Curling  the  Leaf. — 
Fermenting  Process.  —  Machines  for  the  Automatic  Drying  or  Firing  of  the  Leaf. — 
Machines  for  Non-Automatic  Drying  or  Firing  of  the  Leaf. — Drying  or  Firing  Machines. — 
Breaking  or  Cutting,  and  Sorting  Machines. — Packing  the  Tea. — Means  of  Transport  on 
Tea  Plantations. — Miscellaneous  Machinery  and  Apparatus. — Final  Treatment  of  the 
Tea. — Tables  and  Memoranda. 

"  The  subject  of  tea  machinery  is  now  one  of  the  first  interest  to  a  large  class  of  people,  to  whom 
we  strongly  commend  the  volume." — Chamber  of  Commerce  Journal. 

"  When  tea  planting  was  first  introdueed  into  the  British  possessions  little,  if  any,  machinery  was 
employed,  but  now  its  use  is  almost  universal.  This  volume  contains  a  very  full  account  of  the 
machinery  necessary  for  the  proper  outfit  of  a  factory,  and  also  a  description  of  the  processes  best 
carried  out  by  this  machinery."— /owrwa/  Society  of  Arts. 

FLOUR  MANUFACTURE* 

A  Treatise  on  Milling  Science  and  Practice.  By  Friedrich  Kick,  Imperial 
Regierungsrath,  Professor  of  Mechanical  Technology  in  the  Imperial  German 
Polytechnic  Institute,  Prague.  Translated  from  the  Second  Enlarged  and 
Revised  Edition,  with  Supplement.  By  H.  H.  P.  Powles,  Assoc.  Memb. 
Institution  of  Civil  Engineers.  Nearly  400  pp.  Illustrated  with  28  Folding 
Plates,  and  167  Woodcuts.    Royal  8vo,  cloth  25/- 

"  This  invaluable  work  is,  and  will  remain,  the  standard  authority  on  the  science  of  milling.  .  .  . 
The  miller  who  has  read  and  digested  this  work  will  have  laid  the  foundation,  so  to  speak,  of  a  successful 
career ;  he  will  have  acquired  a  number  of  general  principles  which  he  can  proceed  to  apply.  In  this 
handsome  volume  we  at  last  have  the  accepted  text-book  of  modern  milling  in  good,  sound  English, 
which  has  little,  if  any,  trace  of  the  German  idiom." — The  Miller. 

"  The  appearance  of  this  celebrated  work  in  English  is  very  opportune,  and  British  millers  will  we 
are  sure,  not  be  slow  in  availing  themselves  of  its  pages." — Millers'  Gazette. 

COTTON  MANUFACTURE. 

A  Manual  of  Practical  Instruction  of  the  Processes  of  Opening,  Carding, 
Combing,  Drawing,  Doubling  and  Spinning  of  Cotton,  the  Methods  of  Dyeing,  &c. 
For  the  Use  of  Operatives,  Overlookers,  and  Manufacturers.  By  John  Lister, 
Technical  Instructor,  Pendleton.    8vo,  cloth    .       .       .       .       .  .7/6 

"This  invaluable  volume  is  a  distinct  advance  in  the  literature  of  cotton  manufacture." — Machinery. 
"It  is  thoroughly  reliable,  fulfilling  nearly  all  the  requirements  desired."— G/asg-ow  Herald. 

MODERN  CYCLES* 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  their  Construction  and  Repair.  By  A.  J.  Wallis- 
Tayler,   A.M.Inst.C.E.,  Author  of  "Refrigerating   Machinery,"  &c.  With 

upwards  of  300  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  10/6 

"The  large  trade  that  is  done  in  the  component  parts  of  bicycles  has  placed  in  the  way  of  men 
mechanically  inclined  extraordinary  facilities  for  building  bicycles  for  their  own  use.  .  .  .  The 
book  will  prove  a  valuable  guide  for  all  those  who  aspire  to  the  manufacture  or  repair  of  their  own 
machines." — The  Field. 

"  A  most  comprehensive  and  up-to-date  treatise."— J/jc  Cycle. 

"  A  very  useful  book,  which  is  quite  entitled  to  rank  as  a  standard  work  for  students  of  cyele 
construction."— Wheeling. 

MOTOR  CARS  OR  POWER  CARRIAGES  FOR  COMMON 
ROADS. 

By  A.  J.  Wallis-Tayler,  Assoc.  Memb.  Inst.  C.E.,  Author  of  "  Modern 
Cycles,"  &c.  212  pp.,  with  76  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  .  4/6 
"  The  book  is  clearly  expressed  throughout,  and  is  just  the  sort  of  work  that  an  engineer,  thinking 

of  turning  his  attention  to  motor-carriage  work,  would  do  well  to  read  as  a  preliminary  to  starting 

operations."— Engineering. 


INDUSTRIAL  AND  USEFUL  ARTS. 


PRACTICAL  TANNING. 

A  Handbook  of  Modern  Processes,  Receipts,  and  Suggestions  for  the  Treatment 
of  Hides,  Skins,  and  Pelts  of  every  Description.    By  L,  A.  Flemming,  American  ■  \ 
Tanner.    472  pages.    8vo,  cloth        .       .       .  Published.    Net  25/- 

"  This  work  is  just  what  its  name  implies — a  practical  man's  handbook  on  leather  manufacture. 
We  are  pleased  to  see  much  care,  thought,  and  space  are  devoted  to  the  modern  methods  of  chrome 
tanning,  sheep,  goat,  calf,  and  side  leathers.  Mr.  Flemming's  book  is  essentially  the  tanner's  working 
handbook,  and  we  have  no  doubt  but  that  in  a  very  short  time  we  shall  see  many  a  copy  on  the 
manager-foremen's  desks  bearing  tan,  chrome,  and  dye  stains — a  pure  evidence  that  the  work  of  the 
writer  has  not  fallen  upon  unfruitful  ground. — Tlie  Leather  Trades'  Review. 

THE  ART  OF  LEATHER  MANUFACTURE. 

Being  a  Practical  Handbook,  in  which  the  Operations  of  Tanning,  Currying,  and 
Leather  Dressing  are  fully  Described,  and  the  Principles  of  Tanning  Explained,  ! 
and  many  Recent  Processes  Introduced  ;  as  also  Methods  for  the  Estimation  of 
Tannin,  and  a  Description  of  the  Arts  of  Glue  Boiling,  Gut  Dressing,  &c.  By 
Alexander  Watt.  Fourth  Edition.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  ...  9/- 
"A  sound,  comprehensive  treatise  on  tanning  and  its  accessories.  The  book  is  an  eminently 
valuable  production,  which  redounds  to  the  credit  of  both  author  and  publishers." — Chemical  Review.  1 

THE  ART  OF  SOAP^MAKING, 

A  Practical  Handbook  of  the  Manufacture  of  Hard  and  Soft  Soaps,  Toilet  Soaps, 
&c.  Including  many  New  Processes,  and  a  Chapter  on  the  Recovery  of 
Glycerine  from  Waste  Leys.  By  Alexander  Watt.  Sixth  Edition,  including 
an  Appendix  on  Modern  Candlemaking.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  .  .  7/6 
"  A  thoroughly  practical  treatise.  We  congratulate  the  author  on  the  success  of  his  endeavour  to 
fill  a  void  in  English  technical  literature." — Nature. 

PRACTICAL  PAPER^MAKING. 

A  Manual  for  Paper-Makers  and  Owners  and  Managers  of  Paper-Mills.  With 
Tables,  Calculations,  &c.   By  G.  Clapperton,  Paper-Maker.   With  Illustrations 
of  Fibres  from  Micro-Photographs.    Crown  8vo,  cloth     ....  5/- 
"  The  author  caters  for  the  requirements  of  responsible  mill  hands,  apprentices,  &c.,  whilst  his  ^ 
manual  will  be  found  of  great  service  to  students  of  technology,  as  well  as  to  veteran  paper-makers  | 
and  mill-owners.    The  illustrations  form  an  excellent  feature." — The  World's  Paper  Trade  Review. 

THE  ART  OF  PAPER^MAKING.  1 

A  Practical  Handbook  of  the  Manufacture  of  Paper  from  Rags,  Esparto,  Straw, 
and  other  Fibrous  Materials.    Including  the  Manufacture  of  Pulp  from  Wood 
Fibre,  with  a  Description  of  the  Machinery  and  Appliances  used.    To  which  are  i 
added  Details  of  Processes  for  Recovering  Soda  from  Waste  Liquors.     By  I 
Alexander  Watt.    With  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth   .       .  7/6  i 

"  It  may  be  regarded  as  the  standard  work  on  the  subject.  The  book  is  full  of  valuable  information  i 
The  '  Art  of  Paper-Making '  is  in  every  respect  a  model  of  a  text-book,  either  for  a  technical  class,  or  for  I 
the  private  student." — Paper  and  Printing  Trades  Journal.  j 

A  TREATISE  ON  PAPER 

For  Printers  and  Stationers.   With  an  Outline  of  Paper  Manufacture  ;  Complete 
Tables  of  Sizes,  and  Specimens  of  Different  Kinds  of  Paper.     By  Richard  { 
Parkinson,  late  of  the  Manchester  Technical  School.    Demy  8vo,  cloth  3/6 

CEMENTS,  PASTES,  GLUES  AND  GUMS. 

A  Practical  Guide  to  the  Manufacture  and  Application  of  the  various  Aggluti- 
nants  required  in  the  Building,  Metal-Working,  Wood- Working,  and  Leather- 
Working  Trades,  and  for  Workshop  and  Office  Use.  With  upwards  of  900  i 
Recipes.  By  H.  C.  Standage.  Third  Edition.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  2/- 
"  We  have  pleasure  in  speaking  favourably  of  this  volume.  So  far  as  we  have  had  experience, 
which  is  not  inconsiderable,  this  manual  is  trustworthy." — Athenceuni. 

FRENCH  POLISHING  AND  ENAMELLING.  I 

A  Practical  Work  of  Instruction.  Including  Numerous  Recipes  for  making  | 
Polishes,  Varnishes,  Glaze-Lacquers,  Revivers,  &c.    By  R.  Bitmead    .  1/6 

WOOD  ENGRAVING. 

A  Practical  and  Easy  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  the  Art.  By  W.  N.  Brown  1/6 
"  The  book  is  clear  and  complete,  and  will  be  useful  to  any  one  wanting  to  understand  the  first 
elements  of  the  beautiful  art  of  wood  engraving,"— Gra/>/jtc. 


38 


C/WSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE, 


WATCH  REPAIRING, 

CLEANING,  AND  ADJUSTING, 

A  Practical  Handbook  dealing  with  the  Materials  and  Tools  Used,  and  the 
Methods  of  Repairing,  Cleaning,  Altering,  and  Adjusting  all  kinds  of  Enghsh  and 
Foreign  Watches,  Repeaters,  Chronographs,  and  Marine  Chronometers.  By 
F.  J .  Garrard,  Springer  and  Adjuster  of  Marine  Chronometers  and  Deck  Watches 
for  the  Admiralty.    With  over  200  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

\Just  PuUished.    Net  4/6 

"  To  the  apprentice  who  wishes  to  gain  a  clear  insight  into  the  repairing  branch  of  the  industry, 
and  even  to  those  who  are  adepts  in  the  art  and  mystery  of  horology,  this  little  book  can  be  well 
recommended."— Watchmaker,  Jeweler,  and  Silversmith. 

MODERN  HOROLOGY  IN  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE. 

Translated  from  the  French  of  Claudius  Saunier,  ex-Director  of  the  School  of 
Horology  at  Macon,  by  Julien  Tripplin,  F.R.A.S.,  Besanfon  Watch  Manu- 
facturer, and  Edward  Rigg,  M.A.,  Assayer  in  the  Royal  Mint.  With  Seventy- 
eight  Woodcuts  and  Twenty-two  Coloured  Copper  Plates.     Second  Edition. 

Super-royal  8vo,  £2  2s.,  cloth;  half-calf  £2  lOs. 

"  There  is  no  horological  work  in  the  English  language  at  all  to  be  compared  to  this  production  of 
M.  Saunier's  for  clearness  and  completeness.  It  is  alike  good  as  a  guide  for  the  student  and  as  a 
reference  for  the  experienced  horologist  and  skilled  workman." — Horological  Journal.  / 

"The  latest,  the  most  complete,  and  the  most  reliable  of  those  literary  productions  to  which 
continental  watchmakers  are  indebted  for  the  mechanical  superiority  over  their  English  brethren— in 
fact,  the  Book  of  Books,  is  M.  Saunier's  '  Treatise.'  " — Watchmaker,  Jexvellev,  and  Silversmith. 

THE  WATCH  ADJUSTER'S  MANUAL. 

A  Practical  Guide  for  the  Watch  and  Chronometer  Adjuster  in  Making,  Springing, 
Timing  and  Adjusting  for  Isochronism,  Positions  and  Temperatures.  By  C.  E. 
Fritts.    370  pages,  with  Illustrations,  8vo,  cloth     .....  16/- 

THE  WATCHMAKER'S  HANDBOOK. 

Intended  as  a  Workshop  Companion  for  those  engaged  in  Watchmaking  and  the 
Allied  Mechanical  Arts.  Translated  from  the  French  of  Claudius  Saunier,  and 
enlarged  by  Julien  Tripplin,  F.R.A.S.,  and  Edward  Rigg,  M.A.,  Assayer  in 
the  Royal  Mint.    Third  Edition.    Crown  8vo,  cloth        ....  9/- 

"Each  part  is  truly  a  treatise  in  itself.  The  arrangement  is  good  and  the  language  is  clear  and 
concise.    It  is  an  admirable  guide  for  the  young  watchmaker." — Engineering. 

"  It  is  impossible  to  speak  too  highly  of  its  excellence.  It  fulfils  every  requirement  in  a  handbook 
intended  for  the  use  of  a  workman.    Should  be  found  in  every  workshop." — Watch  and  Clockmaker. 

HISTORY  OF  WATCHES  &  OTHER  TIMEKEEPERS. 

By  James  F.  Kendal,  M. B.H.Inst.    1/6  boards  ;  or  cloth,  gilt  .  2/6 

"  The  best  which  has  yet  appeared  on  this  subject  in  the  English  language."— Industries. 
"  Open  the  book  where  you  may,  there  is  interesting  matter  in  it  concerning  the  ingenious  devices 
of  the  ancient  or  modern  horologer." — Saturday  Revieiv. 

ELECTRO'PLATING  &  ELECTRO-REFINING  OF  METALS. 

Being  a  new  edition  of  Alexander  Watt's  "  Electro-Deposition."  Revised 
and  Largely  Rewritten  by  Arnold  Philip,  B.Sc,  A.I.E.E.,  Principal  Assistant 
to  the  Admiralty  Chemist.  Large  crown  8vo,  cloth       .       .       .        Net  12/6 
"Altogether  the  work  can  be  highly  recommended  to  every  electro-plater,  and  is  of  undoubted 
interest  to  every  electro-metallurgist."— S/effncai  Review. 

"  Eminently  a  book  for  the  practical  worker  in  electro-deposition.  It  contains  practical  descriptions 
of  methods,  processes  and  materials,  as  actually  pursued  and  used  in  the  workshop."— 

ELECTRO-METALLURGY* 

Practically  Treated.  By  Alexander  Watt.  Tenth  Edition,  including  the  most 
recent  Processes.    i2mo,  cloth  3/6 

"  From  this  book  both  amateur  and  artisan  may  learn  everything  necessary  for  the  successful 
prosecution  of  electroplating."— /ro;j. 

JEWELLER^S  ASSISTANT  in  WORKING  in  GOLD, 

A  Practical  Treatise  for  Masters  and  Workmen,  Compiled  from  the  Experience 
of  Thirty  Years'  Workshop  Practice.  By  George  E.  Gee,  Author  of  the  "  Gold- 
smith's Handbook,"  &c.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  7/6 

"  This  manual  of  technical  education  is  apparently  destined  to  be  a  valuable  auxiliary  to  a  handi- 
craft which  IS  certamly  capable  of  great  improvement."— 272«j  Times. 


INDUSTRIAL  AND  USEFUL  ARTS. 


39 


ELECTROPLATING. 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Deposition  of  Copper,  Silver,  Nickel,  Gold, 
Aluminium,  Brass,  Platinum,  &c.,  &c.    By  J.  W.  Urquhart,  C.E.  Fourth 

Edition,  Revised.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  5/- 

"  An  excellent  practical  manual."— Eng'ineenHg-. 

"  An  excellent  work,  giving  the  newest  information." — Horological  Journal. 

ELECTROTYPING. 

The  Reproduction  and  Multiplication  of  Printing  Surfaces  and  Works  of  Art  by 
the  Electro-deposition  of  Metals.  By  T.  W.  Urquhart,  C.E.  Crown  8vo, 
cloth  .   .  .       .       .       .  5h 

"  The  book  is  thoroughly  practical ;  the  reader  is,  therefore,  conducted  through  the  leading  laws  of 
electricity,  then  through  the  metals  used  by  electrotypers,  the  apparatus,  and  the  depositing  processes, 
up  to  the  final  preparation  of  the  work." — Art  JoJirnal. 

GOLDSMITH'S  HANDBOOK. 

By  George  E.  Gee,  Jeweller,  &c.    Fifth  Edition.    i2mo,  cloth     .       .  3/- 
"  A  good,  sound  educator,  and  will  be  generally  accepted  as  an  authority." — Horological  Journal. 

SILVERSMITH'S  HANDBOOK. 

By  George  E.  Gee,  Jeweller,  &c.    Third  Edition,  with  numerous  Illustrations. 

i2mo,  cloth  3/- 

"  The  chief  merit  of  the  work  is  its  practical  character.  .  .  .  The  workers  in  the  trade  will  speedily 
discover  its  merits  when  they  sit  down  to  study  it." — English  Mechanic. 

The  above  two  works  together,  strongly  half-bound,  price  7s. 

SHEET  METAL  WORKER'S  INSTRUCTOR. 

Comprising  a  Selection  of  Geometrical  Problems  and^  Practical  Rules  for 
Describing  the  Various  Patterns  Required  by  Zinc,  Sheet-Iron,  Copper  and  Tin- 
Plate  Workers.  By  Reuben  Henry  Warn,  Practical  Tin-Plate  Worker.  New 
Edition,  Revised  and  greatly  Enlarged  by  Joseph  G.  Horner,  A.M.I.M.E. 
Crown  8vo,  254  pages,  with  430  Illustrations,  cloth        ....  7/6 

BREAD   &   BISCUIT    BAKER'S    &  SUGAR^BOILER'S 
ASSISTANT, 

Including  a  large  variety  of  Modern  Recipes.     With  Remarks  on  the  Art  of 
Bread-making.    By  Robert  Wells.    Third  Edition.    Cr.  8vo,  cloth    .  2/- 
"  A  large  number  of  wrinkles  for  the  ordinary  cook,  as  well  as  the  baker." — Saturday  Review. 

PASTRYCOOK  &  CONFECTIONER'S  GUIDE. 

For  Hotels,  Restaurants,  and  the  Trade  in  general,  adapted  also  for  Family  Use. 
By  R.  Wells,  Author  of  "The  Bread  and  Biscuit  Baker."     Crown  8vo, 

cloth  2/- 

"  We  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  this  really  excellent  work.  In  these  days  of  keen  competition  our 
readers  cannot  do  better  than  purchase  this  hook."— Bakefs  Times. 

ORNAMENTAL  CONFECTIONERY. 

A  Guide  for  Bakers,  Confectioners  and  Pastrycooks ;  including  a  variety  of 
Modern  Recipes,  and  Remarks  on  Decorative  and  Coloured  Work.  With  129 
Original  Designs.    By  Robert  Wells.    Second  Edition.    Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

5/- 

"  A  valuable  work,  practical,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  baker  and  confectioner.  The 
illustrative  designs  are  alone  worth  treble  the  amount  charged  for  the  whole  work." — Baker's  Times. 

MODERN  FLOUR  CONFECTIONER. 

Containing  a  large  Collection  of  Recipes  for  Cheap  Cakes,  Biscuits,  &c.  With 
Remarks  on  the  Ingredients  Used  in  their  Manufacture.    By  Robert  Wells, 
Author  of  "  The  Bread  and  Biscuit  Baker,"  &c.    Crown  8vo,  cloth        .  2/- 
"  The  work  is  of  a  decidedly  practical  character,  and  in  every  recipe  regard  is  had  to  economical 
workmg."— ATorf/i  British  Daily  Mail. 

RUBBER  HAND  STAMPS 

And  the  Manipulation  of  Rubber.  A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of 
Indiarubber  Hand  Stamps,  Small  Articles  of  Indiarubber,  The  Hektograph, 
Special  Inks,  Cements  and  Allied  Subjects.  By  T.  O'Conor  Sloane,  A.M.,  Ph.D. 
With  numerous  Illustrations,    Square  8vo,  cloth      .  ...  5/- 


40 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  &^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


HANDYBOOKS  FOR  HANDICRAFTS. 

BY  PAUL  N.  HASLUCK, 

Editor  of  "Work"  (New  Series),  Author  of  "Lathe  Work,"  "  Milling  Machines,"  &c. 
Crown  8vo,  144  pages,  price  i/-  each. 

These  Handybooks  have  been  written  to  supply  information  for  Workmen, 
Students,  and  Amateurs  in  the  several  Handicrafts,  on  the  actual  Practice  of  the 
Workshop,  and  are  intended  to  convey  in  plain  language  Technical  Knowledge  of  the 
several  Crafts.  In  describing  the  processes  employed,  and  the  manipulation  of  material, 
workshop  terms  are  used;  workshop  practice  is  fully  explained ;  and  the  text  is  freely  illustrated 
with  drawings  of  modern  tools,  appliances,  and  processes. 


METAL  TURNER'S  HANDYBOOK. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Workers  at  the  Foot-Lathe.    With  100  Illustrations  1/- 
"The  book  will  be  of  service  alike  to  the  amateur  and  the  artisan  turner.    It  displays  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  subject."— Sco/s;;(a?j. 

WOOD  TURNER'S  HANDYBOOK, 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Workers  at  the  Lathe.    With  over  100  Illustrations  1/- 

"  We  recommend  the  book  to  young  turners  and  amateurs.  A  multitude  of  workmen  have  hitherto 
sought  in  vain  for  a  manual  of  this  special  industry." — Mechanical  Woiid. 

WATCH  JOBBER'S  HANDYBOOK, 

A  Practical  Manual  on  Cleaning,  Repairing,  and  Adjusting.  With  upwards  of 
100  Illustrations         ...........  1/- 

"  We  strongly  advise  all  young  persons  connected  with  the  watch  trade  to  acquire  and  study  this 
inexpensive  wox'k  "—Clerkenw ell  Chronicle. 

PATTERN  MAKER'S  HANDYBOOK. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  the  Construction  of  Patterns  for  Founders.  With  upwards 
of  100  Illustrations      ...........  1/- 

"  A  most  valuable,  if  not  indispensable,  manual  for  the  pattern  xmkev."—Knoivleiige. 

MECHANIC'S  WORKSHOP  HANDYBOOK. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  Mechanical  Manipulation,  embracing  Information  on 
various  Handicraft  Processes.    With  Useful  Notes  and  Miscellaneous  Memo- 
randa.   Comprising  about  200  Subjects     .......  1/- 

"  A  very  clever  and  useful  book,  which  should  be  found  in  every  workshop  ;  and  it  should  certainly 
find  a  place  in  all  technical  schools." — Saturday  Review. 

MODEL  ENGINEER'S  HANDYBOOK. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  the  Construction  of  Model  Steam  Engines.  With 


upwards  of  100  Illustrations       .   1/- 

"  Mr.  Hasluck  has  produced  a  very  good  little  book." — Builder. 

CLOCK  JOBBER'S  HANDYBOOK. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  Cleaning,  Repairing,  and  Adjusting.  With  upwards  of 
100  Illustrations  ............  1/- 

"It  is  of  inestimable  service  to  those  commencing  the  tx:a.de."— Coventry  Standard. 

CABINET  WORKER'S  HANDYBOOK. 

A  Practical  Manual  on  the  Tools,  Materials,  Appliances,  and  Processes  employed 
in  Cabinet  Work.    With  upwards  of  100  Illustrations      .  .  1/- 


"  Mr.  Hasluck's  thoroughgoing  little  Handybook  is  amongst  the  most  practical  guides  we  have 
seen  for  beginners  in  cabinet-work."— Sai/n-rfaj'  Revieio. 

WOODWORKER'S  HANDYBOOK. 

Embracing  Information  on  the  Tools,  Materials,  Appliances,  and  Processes 
Employed  in  Woodworking.    With  104  Illustrations        .  .       .  1/- 

"  Written  by  a  man  who  knows  not  only  how  work  ought  to  be  done,  but  how  to  do  it,  and  how  to 
convey  his  knowledge  to  oihers."— Engineering. 

"  Mr.  Hasluck  writes  admirably,  and  gives  complete  instructions."— Eng'tnee;-. 

"  Mr,  Hasluck  combines  the  experience  of  a  practical  teacher  with  the  manipulative  skill  and 
scientific  knowledge  of  processes  of  the  trained  mechanician,  and  the  manuals  are  marvels  of  what  can 
be  produced  at  a  popular  ^x'lce."— Schoolmaster. 

"  Helpful  to  workmen  of  all  ages  and  degrees  of  experience."— £)fl^7J  Chronicle. 

"  Concise,  clear,  and  practical."— Saiwrrfaj  Revieiv. 


COMMERCE,  COUNTING-HOUSE   WORK,   TABLES,  ^c. 


41 


COMMERCE,  COUNTINQ=HOUSE  WORK, 
TABLES,  ETC. 

LESSONS  IN  COMMERCE. 

By  Professor  R.  Gambaro,  of  the  Royal  High  Commercial  School  at  Genoa. 
Edited  and  Revised  by  James  Gault,  Professor  of  Commerce  and  Commercial 
Law  in  King's  College,  London.    Fourth  Edition.    Crown  8vo.  cloth  3/6 
"  The  publishers  of  this  work  have  rendered  considerable  service  to  the  cause  of  commercial 
education  by  the  opportune  production  of  this  volume.    .    .    .    The  work  is  peculiarly  acceptable  to 
English  readers  and  an  admirable  addition  to  existing  class  books.    In  a  phrase,  we  think  the  work 
attains  its  object  in  furnishing  a  brief  account  of  those  laws  and  customs  of  British  trade  with  which 
the  commercial  man  interested  therein  should  be  familiar."— C/iawier  0/  Commerce  Journal. 

"  An  invaluable  guide  in  the  hands  of  those  who  are  preparing  for  a  commercial  career,  and,  in  fact, 
the  information  it  contains  on  matters  of  business  should  be  impressed  on  every  one."— Counting  House. 

THE  FOREIGN  COMMERCIAL  CORRESPONDENT. 

Being  Aids  to  Commercial  Correspondence  in  Five  Languages — English,  French, 
German,  Italian,  and  Spanish.  By  Conrad  E.  Baker.  Third  Edition.  Care- 
fully revised  throughout.    Crown  8vo,  cloth    ......  4/6 

"  Whoever  wishes  to  correspond  in  all  the  languages  mentioned  by  Mr.  Baker  cannot  do  better  than 
study  this  work,  the  materials  of  which  are  excellent  and  conveniently  arranged.  They  consist  not  of 
entire  specimen  letters,  but— what  are  far  more  useful— short  passages,  sentences,  or  phrases  expressing 
the  same  general  idea  in  various  forms." — AthencEuin. 

"  A  careful  examination  has  convinced  us  that  it  is  unusually  complete,  well  arranged  and  reliable. 
The  book  is  a  thoroughly  good  one." — Sclioolmaster. 

FACTORY  ACCOUNTS:  THEIR  PRINCIPLES  AND 
PRACTICE. 

A  Handbook  for  Accountants  and  Manufacturers,  with  Appendices  on  the 
Nomenclature  of  Machine  Details ;  the  Income  Tax  Acts  ;  the  Rating  of 
Factories;  Fire  and  Boiler  Insurance;  the  Factory  and  Workshop  Acts,  &c., 
including  also  a  Glossary  of  Terms  and  a  large  number  of  Specimen  Rulings. 
By  Emile  Garcke  and  J.  M.  Fells.  Fifth  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 
Demy  8.vo,  cloth  7/6 

"  A  very  interesting  description  of  the  requirements  of  Factory  Accounts.  .  .  .  The  principle  of 
assimilating  the  Factory  Accounts  to  the  general  commercial  books  is  one  which  we  thoroughly  agree 
with." — A  ccountants'  Journal. 

"  Characterised  by  extreme  thoroughness.  There  are  few  owners  of  factories  who  would  not 
derive  great  benefit  from  the  perusal  of  this  most  admirable  work."— Loca^  Government  Chronicle. 

MODERN  METROLOGY. 

A  Manual  of  the  Metrical  Units  and  Systems  of  the  Present  Century.  With  an 
Appendix  containing  a  proposed  English  System.  By  Lewis  D'A.  Jackson, 
A.-M.Irist.C.E.,  Author  of  "Aid  to  Survey  Practice,"  &c.  Large  crown  8vo, 
cloth  12/6 

"  We  recommend  the  work  to  all  interested  in  the  practical  reform  of  our  weights  and  measures."— 
Natit,re. 

A  SERIES  OF  METRIC  TABLES. 

In  which  the  British  Standard  Measures  and  Weights  are  compared  with  those 
of  the  Metric  System  at  present  in  Use  on  the  Continent.    By  C.  H.  Dowling, 

C.E.    8vo,  cloth  10/6 

"  Mr.  Bowling's  Tables  are  well  put  together  as  a  ready  reckoner  for  the  conversion  of  one  system 
into  the  other."— Athenceiim. 

IRON  AND  METAL  TRADES*  COMPANION. 

For  expeditiously  ascertaining  the  Value  of  any  Goods  bought  or  sold  by  Weight, 
from  IS.  per  cwt.  to  112s.  per  cwt.,  and  from  one  farthing  per  pound  to  one  shilling 
per  pound.    By  Thomas  Downie.    Strongly  bound  in  leather,  396  pp.   .  9/- 
"  A  most  useful  set  of  tables,  nothing  like  them  before  existed." — Building  Neu's. 
"  Although  specially  adapted  to  the  iron  and  metal  trades,  the  tables  will  be  found  useful  in  every 
other  business  in  which  merchandise  is  bought  and  sold  by  weight." — Railway  Neivs. 


42 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  ^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


NUMBER,  WEIGHT,  &  FRACTIONAL  CALCULATOR. 

Containing  upwards  of  250,000  Separate  Calculations,  showing  at  a  glance  the 
value  at  422  different  rates,  ranging  from  xi-j^^  of  ^  Penny  to  205.  each,  or  per 
cwt.,  and  ;^2o  per  ton,  of  any  number  of  articles  consecutively,  from  i  to  470. 
— Any  number  of  cwts.,  qrs.,  and  lbs.,  from  i  cwt.  to  470  cwts. — Any  number  of 
tons,  cwts.,  qrs.,  and  lbs.,  from  i  to  1,000  tons.  By  William  Chadwick,  Public 
Accountant.    Third  Edition,  Revised  and  Improved.    8vo,  strongly  bound  18/- 

"  It  is  as  easy  of  reference  for  any  answer  or  any  number  of  answers  as  a  dictionary.  For  making 
up  accounts  or  estimates  the  book  must  prove  invaluable  to  all  who  have  any  considerable  quantity  of 
calculations  involving  price  and  measure  in  any  combination  to  Ao:'— Engineer. 

"  The  most  perfect  work  of  the  kind  yet  prepared."— G/as^g-ozi;  Herald. 

THE  WEIGHT  CALCULATOR. 

Being  a  Series  of  Tables  upon  a  New  and  Comprehensive  Plan,  exhibiting  at  one 
Reference  the  exact  Value  of  any  Weight  from  i  lb.  to  15  tons,  at  300  Progressive 
Rates,  from  i^^.  to  i68s.  per  cwt.,  and  containing  186,000  Direct  Answers,  which, 
with  their  Combinations,  consisting  of  a  single  addition  (mostly  to  be  performed 
at  sight),  will  afford  an  aggregate  of  10,266,000  Answers  ;  the  whole  being  calcu- 
lated and  designed  to  ensure  correctness  and  promote  despatch.  By  Henry 
Harben,  Accountant.  Fifth  Edition,  carefully  corrected.  Royal  Svo,  strongly 
half-bound  £1  5s. 

"  A  practical  and  useful  work  of  reference  for  men  of  business  generally." — Ironmonger. 

"  Of  priceless  value  to  business  men.  It  is  a  necessary  book  in  all  mercantile  oflSces." — Sheffield 
Independent.  * 

THE  DISCOUNT  GUIDE. 

Comprising  several  Series  of  Tables  for  the  Use  of  Merchants,  Manufacturers, 
Ironmongers,  and  others,  by  which  may  be  ascertained  the  exact  Profit  arising 
from  any  mode  of  using  Discounts,  either  in  the  Purchase  or  Sale  of  Goods,  and 
the  method  of  either  Altering  a  Rate  of  Discount,  or  Advancing  a  Price,  so  as  to 
produce,  by  one  operation,  a  sum  that  will  realise  any  required  profit  after 
allowing  one  or  more  Discounts ;  to  which  are  added  Tables  of  Profit  or  Advance 
from  1 1  to  90  per  cent..  Tables  of  Discount  from  to  g8f  per  cent.,  and  Tables 
of  Commission,  &c.,  from  i  to  10  per  cent.  By  Henry  Harben,  Accountant. 
New  Edition,  Corrected.  Demy  Svo,  half-bound  ....  £1  5s. 
"  A  book  such  as  this  can  only  be  appreciated  by  business  men,  to  whom  the  saving  of  time  means 

saving  of  money.   The  work  must  prove  of  great  value  to  merchants,  manufacturers,  and  general 

tiadeTS."— British  Trade  Journal. 

TABLES  OF  WAGES. 

At  54,  52,  50,  and  48  Hours  per  Week.  Showing  the  Amounts  of  Wages  from 
One-quarter-of-an-hour  to  Sixty-four  hours  in  each  case  at  Rates  of  Wages 
advancing  by  One  Shilling  from  45.  to  55s.  per  week.  By  Thos.  Garbdtt, 
Accountant.    Square  crown  Svo,  half-bound  6/- 

IRON'PLATE  WEIGHT  TABLES. 

For  Iron  Shipbuilders,  Engineers  and  Iron  Merchants.  Containing  the  Calcu- 
lated Weights  of  Upwards  of  150,000  different  sizes  of  Iron  Plates  from  i  foot  by 
6  in.  by  ^  in.  to  10  feet  by  5  feet  by  i  in.  Worked  out  on  the  basis  of  40  lbs.  to 
the  square  foot  of  Iron  of  i  inch  in  thickness.  By  H.  Burlinson  and  W.  H. 
Simpson.    4to,  half-bound  25/- 


43 


AGRICULTURE,  FARMING,  GARDENING,  ETC. 


THE  COMPLETE  GRAZIER  AND  FARMER'S  AND 

CATTLE  BREEDER^S  ASSISTANT, 

A  Compendium  of  Husbandry.  Originally  Written  by  William  Youatt. 
Fourteenth  Edition,  entirely  Re-written,  considerably  Enlarged,  and  brought  up 
to  Present  Requirements,  by  William  Fream,  LL.D.,  Assistant  Commissioner 
Royal  Commission  on  Agriculture,  Author  of  "  The  Elements  of  Agriculture,"  &c. 
Royal  8vo,  i.ioo  pp.,  450  Illustrations.  Handsomely  bound  .  £1  lis.  6cl. 
Summary  of  Contents. 


Book  I.  On  the  Varieties,  Breeding,  Rear- 
ing, Fattening  and  Management  of  Cattle. 

Book  II.  On  the  Economy  and  Management 
OF  the  Dairy. 

Book  III.  On  the  Breeding,  Rearing,  and 
Management  of  Horses. 

Book  IV.  On  the  Breeding,  Rearing,  and 
Fattening  of  Sheep. 

Book  V.  On  the  Breeding,  Rearing,  and 
Fattening  of  Swine. 

Book  VI.   On  the  Diseases  of  Live  Stock. 


Book  VII.  On  the  Breeding,  Rearing,  and 
Management  of  Poultry. 

Book  VIII.  On  Farm  Offices  and  Imple- 
ments OF  Husbandry. 

Book  IX.  On  the  Culture  and  Manage- 
ment OF  Grass  Lands. 

Book  X.  On  the  Cultivation  and  Applica- 
tion OF  Grasses,  Pulse  and  Roots. 

Book  XI.  On  Manures  and  their  Appli- 
cation TO  Grass  Land  and  Crops. 

Book  XII.  Monthly  Calendars  of  Farmwork. 


Opinions  of  the  Press. 

"  Dr.  Fream  is  to  be  congratulated  on  the  successful  attempt  he  has  made  to  give  us  a  work  which 
will  at  once  become  the  standard  classic  of  the  farm  practice  of  the  country.  We  believe  that  it  will  be 
found  that  it  has  no  compeer  among  the  many  works  at  present  in  existence.  .  .  .  The  illustrations 
are  admirable,  while  the  frontispiece,  which  represents  the  well-known  bull.  New  Year's  Gift,  bred  by 
the  Queen,  is  a  work  of  avt."— The  Times. 

"  The  book  must  be  recognised  as  occupying  the  proud  position  of  the  most  exhaustive  work  ot 
reference  in  the  English  language  on  the  subject  with  which  it  deals." — Athencetnn. 

"  The  most  comprehensive  guide  to  modern  farm  practice  that  exists'^in  the  English  language 
to-day.  .  .  .  The  book  is  one  that  ought  to  be  on  every  farm  and  in  the  library  of  every  land 
owner." — Mark  Lane  Express. 

"  In  point  of  exhaustiveness  and  accuracy  the  work  will  certainly  hold  a  pre-eminent  and  unique 
position  among  books  dealing  with  scientific  agricultural  practice.  It  is,  in  fact,  an  agricultural  library 
of  itself."— North  British  Agriculturist. 

FARM  LIVE  STOCK  OF  GREAT  BRITAIN* 

By  Robert  Wallace,  F.L.S.,  F.R.S.E.,  &c..  Professor  of  Agricultural  and  Rural 
Economy  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh.  Third  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised 
and  considerably  Enlarged.    With  over  120  Phototypes  of  Prize  Stock.  Demy 

8vo,  384  pp.,  with  79  Plates  and  Maps.    Cloth  12/6 

"  A  really  complete  work  on  the  history,  breeds,  and  management  of  the  farm  stock  of  Great 

Britain,  and  one  which  is  likely  to  find  its  way  to  the  shelves  of  every  country  gentleman's  library." — 

The  Times. 

"  The  '  Farm  Live  Stock  of  Great  Britain  '  is  a  production  to  be  proud  of,  and  its  issue  not  the 
least  of  the  services  which  its  author  has  rendered  to  agricultural  science."— 5co^^}s/j  Fanner. 

NOTE'BOOK  OF  AGRICULTURAL  FACTS  AND 

FIGURES  FOR  FARMERS  AND  FARM  STUDENTS. 

By  Primrose  McConnell,  B.Sc,  Fellow  of  the  Highland  and  Agricultural 
Society,  Author  of  "  Elements  of  Farming."  Sixth  Edition,  Rewritten,  Revised, 
and  greatly  Enlarged.    F'cap.  8vo,  480  pages,  leather,  gilt  edges    .       .  6/- 

Contents  — Surveying  and  Levelling. —Weights  and  Measures.  —  Machinery  and 
Buildings. — Labour. — Operations. — Draining. — Embanking. — Geological  Memoranda. — Soils. 
— Manures. —  Cropping. —  Crops. —  Rotations. — Weeds. —  Feeding. —  Dairying. —  Live  Stock. — 
Horses. — Cattle. — Sheep. — Pigs. — Poultry. — Forestry. — Horticulture. — Miscellaneous. 

"  No  farmer,  and  certainly  no  agricultural  student,  ought  to  be  without  this  imiltum  in  parvo  manual 
of  all  subjects  connected  with  the  {sLvm."— North  British  Agriculturist. 

"  This  little  pocket-book  contains  a  large  amount  of  useful  information  upon  all  kinds  of  agricultural 
subjects.    Something  of  the  kind  has  long  been  wanted."— Mar/fe  Lane  Express. 

"The  amount  of  information  it  contains  is  most  surprising;  the  arrangement  of  the  matter  is  so 
methodical— although  so  compressed— as  to  be  intelligible  to  every  one  who  takes  a  glance  through  its 
pages.   They  teem  with  information."— Fanu  and  Home. 

THE  ELEMENTS  OF  AGRICULTURAL  GEOLOGY. 

A  Scientific  Aid  to  Practical  Farming.   By  Primrose  McConnell,  B.Sc. ,  Author 
of  "  Notebook  of  Agricultural  Facts  and  Figures,"  &c.    Royal  8vo,  330  pp.,  with 
Coloured  Map  and  numerous  Illustrations,  cloth   ....       Net  21/- 
"  On  every  page  the  work  bears  the  impress  of  a  masterly  knowledge  of  the  subject  dealt  with, 
and  we  have  nothing  but  unstinted  praise  to  offer."— Field. 


CROSBY  LOCK  WOOD  &^  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


BRITISH  DAIRYING* 

A  Handy  Volume  on  the  Work  of  the  Dairy-Farm.  For  the  Use  of  Technical 
Instruction  Classes,  Students  in  Agricultural  Colleges  and  the  Working  Dairy- 
Farmer.  By  Prof.  J.  P.  Sheldon.  With  lllusts.  Second  Edition,  Revised. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth  2/6 

"  Confidently  recommended  as  a  useful  text-book  on  dairy  {arming."— A  griailtural  Gazette. 

"  Probably  the  best  half-crown  manual  on  dairy  work  that  has  yet  been  produced."— iVor//i  British 
Agriculturist. 

"  It  is  the  soundest  little  work  we  have  yet  seen  on  the  subject." — The  Times. 

MILK,  CHEESE,  AND  BUTTER, 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  their  Properties  and  the  Processes  of  their  Production. 
Including  a  Chapter  on  Cream  and  the  Methods  of  its  Separation  from  Milk. 
By  John  Oliver,  late  Principal  of  the  Western  Dairy  Institute,  Berkeley.  With 
Coloured  Plates  and  200  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  .  .  7/6 
"  An  exhaustive  and  masterly  production.  It  may  be  cordially  recommended  to  all  students  and 
practitioners  of  dairy  science." — N.B.  Agriculturist. 

"  We  recommend  this  very  comprehensive  and  carefully-written  book  to  dairy-farmers  and  students 
of  dairying.   It  is  a  distinct  acquisition  to  the  library  of  the  agriculturist," — Agricultural  Gazette. 

SYSTEMATIC  SMALL  FARMING- 

Or,  The  Lessons  of  my  Farm.  Being  an  introduction  to  Modern  Farm  Practice 
for  Small  Farmers.    By  R.  Scott  Burn,  Author  of  "  Outlines  of  Modern 

Farming,"  &c.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  6/- 

"  This  is  the  completest  book  of  its  class  we  have  seen,  and  one  which  every  amateur  farmer  will  read 
with  pleasure,  and  accept  as  a  guide." — Field. 

OUTLINES  OF  MODERN  FARMING. 

By  R.  Scott  Burn.  Soils,  Manures,  and  Crops — Farming  and  Farming  Economy 
— Cattle,  Sheep,  and  Horses — Management  of  Dairy,  Pigs,  and  Poultry — 
Utilization  of  Town-Sewage,  Irrigation,  &c.  Sixth  Edition.  In  one  vol.,  1,250 
pp.,  half-bound,  profusely  Illustrated  12/- 

FARM  ENGINEERING,  THE  COMPLETE  TEXT^BOOK  OF. 

Comprising  Draining  and  Embanking ;  Irrigation  and  Water  Supply ;  Farm 
Roads,  Fences,  and  Gates ;  Farm  Buildings ;  Barn  Implements  and  Machines ; 
Field  Implements  and  Machines ;  Agricultural  Surveying,  &c.  By  Professor 
John  Scott.  In  one  vol.,  1,150  pp.,  half-bound,  with  over  600  Illustrations,  12/- 
"  Written  with  great  care,  as  well  as  with  knowledge  and  ability.    The  author  has  done  his  work 

well ;  we  have  found  him  a  very  trustworthy  guide  wherever  we  have  tested  his  statements.  The  volume 

will  be  of  great  value  to  agricultural  students."— Mar^  Lane  Express. 

THE  FIELDS  OF  GREAT  BRITAIN, 

A  Text-Book  of  Agriculture.    Adapted  to  the  Syllabus  of  the  Science  and  Art 
Department.    For  Elementary  and  Advanced  Students.    By  Hugh  Clements 
(Board  of  Trade).   Second  Edition,  Revised,  with  Additions.   i8mo,  cloth  .  2/6 
"  It  is  a  long  time  since  we  have  seen  a  book  which  has  pleased  us  more,  or  which  contains  such  a 
vast  and  useful  fund  of  \ino\N\eAge."— Educational  Times. 

TABLES  AND  MEMORANDA  FOR  FARMERS,  GRAZIERS, 

AGRICULTURAL  STUDENTS,  SURVEYORS,  LAND  AGENTS,. 
AUCTIONEERS,  &c. 

With  a  New  System  of  Farm  Book-keeping.     By  Sidney  Francis.  Fifth 
Edition.    272  pp.,  waistcoat-pocket  size,  limp  leather     ....  1/6 
"  Weighing  less  than  i  oz.,  and  occupying  no  more  space  than  a  match  box,  it  contains  a  mass  of 
lacts  and  calculations  which  has  never  before,  in  such  handy  form,  been  obtainable.    Every  operation 
on  the  farm  is  dealt  with.    The  work  may  be  taken  as  thoroughly  accurate,  the  whole  of  the  tables 
havmg  been  revised  by  Dr.  Fream.    We  cordially  reconmiend  it."— Bell's  Weekly  Messenger. 

THE  ROTHAMSTED  EXPERIMENTS  AND  THEIR 

PRACTICAL  LESSONS  FOR  FARMERS. 

^  Part  I.  Stock.    Part  II.  Crops.    By  C.  J.  R.  Tipper.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  3/6 
"  We  have  no  doubt  that  the  book  will  be  welcomed  by  a  large  class  of  farmers  and  others  interested 
in  agriculture."— S<fl«rf«rrf. 


AGRICULTURE,  FARMING,  GARDENING,  ^'c. 


45 


FERTILISERS  AND  FEEDING  STUFFS. 

Their  Properties  and  Uses.  A  Handbook  for  the  Practical  Farmer.  By 
Bernard  Dyer,  D.Sc.  (Lond.).  With  the  Text  of  the  FertiHsers  and  Feeding 
Stuffs  Act  of  1893,  &c.  Third  Edition,  Revised.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  .  1/- 
"This  little  book  is  precisely  what  it  professes  to  be— '  A  Handbook  for  the  Practical  Farmer.' 

Dr.  Dyer  has  done  farmers  good  service  in  placing  at  their  disposal  so  much  useful  information  in  so 

intelligible  a  form." — The  Times. 

BEES  FOR  PLEASURE  AND  PROFIT: 

Guide  to  the  Manipulation  of  Bees,  the  Production  of  Honey,  and  the  General 
Management  of  the  Apiary.  By  G.  Gordon  Samson.  With  numerous  Illustra- 
tions.   Crown  Svo,  wrapper      .........  1/- 

BOOK^KEEPING  FOR  FARMERS  AND  ESTATE  OWNERS. 

A  Practical  Treatise,  presenting,  in  Three  Plans,  a  System  adapted  for  all 

Classes  of  Farms.    By  Johnson  M.  Woodman,  Chartered  Accountant.  Fourth 

Edition.    Crown  Svo,  cloth  2/6 

"The  volume  is  a  capital  study  of  a  most  important  snh]ect.'"— A  griciUtural  Gazette. 

WOODMAN^S  YEARLY  FARM  ACCOUNT  BOOK* 

Giving  Weekly  Labour  Account  and  Diary,  and  showing  the  Income  and 
Expenditure  under  each  Department  of  Crops,  Live  Stock,  Dairy,  &c.,  &c. 
With  Valuation,  Profit  and  Loss  Account,  and  Balance  Sheet  at  the  end  of 
the  Year.    By  Johnson  M.  Woodman,  Chartered  Accountant.    Second  Edition. 

Folio,  half-bound  '    .       .       Net  1\G 

Contains  every  requisite  for  keeping  farm  accounts  readily  and  accurately." — Agriculture, 

THE  FORCING'GARDEN. 

Or,  How  to  Grow  Early  Fruits,  Flowers,  and  Vegetables.  With  Plans  and 
Estimates  for  Building  Glasshouses,  Pits  and  Frames.     With  Illustrations. 

By  Samuel  Wood.    Crown  Svo,  cloth  3/6 

"A  good  book,  containing  a  great  deal  of  valuable  teaching." — Gardener's  Magazine, 

A  PLAIN  GUIDE  TO  GOOD  GARDENING. 

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Edition,  with  considerable  Additions,  &c..  and  numerous  Illustrations.  Crown 
Svo,  cloth  3/6 

"  A  very  good  book,  and  one  to  be  highly  recommended  as  a  practical  guide.  The  practical 
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MULTUMJN^PARVO  GARDENING* 

Or,  How  to  make  One  Acre  of  Land  produce  £620  a  year,  by  the  Cultivation  of 
Fruits  and  Vegetables  ;  also.  How  to  Grow  Flowers  in  Three  Glass  Houses, 
so  as  to  realise  £176  per  annum  clear  Profit.  By  Samuel  Wood,  Author  of 
"  Good  Gardening,"  &c.    Sixth  Edition.    Crown  Svo,  sewed   .       .       .  1/- 

THE  LADIES*  MULTUMJN^PARVO  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

And  Amateur's  Complete  Guide,    By  S.  Wood.    Crown  Svo,  cloth       .  3/6 

POTATOES:  HOW  TO  GROW  AND  SHOW  THEM. 

A  Practical  Guide  to  the  Cultivation  and  General  Treatment  of  the  Potato. 
By  J.  Pink.    Crown  Svo  2,- 

MARKET  AND  KITCHEN  GARDENING. 

By  C.  W.  Shaw,  late  Editor  of  "  Gardening  Illustrated."    Crown  Svo,  cloth. 

3/6 


46 


AUCTIONEERING,  VALUING, 
LAND  SURVEYING,  ESTATE  AGENCY,  ETC. 


INWOOD*S  TABLES  FOR  PURCHASING  ESTATES 
AND  FOR  THE  VALUATION  OF  PROPERTIES. 

Including  Advowsons,  Assurance  Policies,  Copyholds,  Deferred  Annuities, 
Freeholds,  Ground  Rents,  Immediate  Annuities,  Leaseholds,  Life  Interests 
Mortgages,  Perpetuities,  Renewals  of  Leases,  Reversions,  Sinking  Funds, 
&c.,  &c.  27th  Edition,  Revised  and  Extended  by  William  SeHOOLiNG, 
F.R.A.S.,  with  Logarithms  of  Natural  Numbers  and  Thoman's  Logarithmic 
Interest  and  Annuity  Tables.  360  pp.,  demy  8vo,  cloth     .       .       .       Net  8/- 

"  Those  interested  in  the  purchase  and  sale  of  estates,  and  in  the  adjustment  of  compensation  cases, 
as  well  as  in  transactions  in  annuities,  life  insurances,  &c.,  will  find  the  present  edition  of  eminent 
service." — Engineering. 

"  This  valuable  book  has  been  considerably  enlarged  and  improved  by  the  labours  of  Mr.  Schooling, 
and  is  now  very  complete  indeed." — Economist. 

"Altogether  this  edition  will  prove  of  extreme  value  to  many  classes  of  professional  men  in  saving 
them  many  long  and  tedious  calculations." — Investors'  Review. 

THE  APPRAISER,   AUCTIONEER,   BROKER,  HOUSE 

AND  ESTATE  AGENT  AND  VALUER'S  POCKET  ASSISTANT, 

For  the  Valuation  for  Purchase,  Sale,  or  Renewal  of  Leases,  Annuities  and 
Reversions,  and  of  property  generally ;  with  Prices  for  Inventories,  &c.  By 
John  Wheeler,  Valuer,  &c.  Sixth  Edition,  Re-written  and  greatly  Extended 
by  C.  NoRRis.    Royal  32mo,  cloth  5/- 

"  A  neat  and  concise  book  of  reference,  containing  an  admirable  and  clearly-arranged  list  of  prices 
for  inventories,  and  a  very  practical  guide  to  determine  the  value  of  furniture,  &c." — Standard. 

"  Contains  a  large  quantity  of  varied  and  useful  information  as  to  the  valuation  for  purchase,  sale,  or 
renewal  of  leases,  annuities  and  reversions,  and  of  property  generally,  with  prices  for  inventories,  and 
a  guide  to  determine  the  value  of  interior  fittings  and  other  effects." — Builder. 

AUCTIONEERS:  THEIR  DUTIES  AND  LIABILITIES. 

A  Manual  of  Instruction  and  Counsel  for  the  Young  Auctioneer.  By  Robert 
Squibbs,  Auctioneer.    Second  Edition,  Revised.    Demy  8vo,  cloth       .  12/6 

"  The  work  is  one  of  general  excellent  character,  and  gives  much  information  in  a  compendious 
and  satisfactory  form." — Builder. 

"  May  be  recommended  as  giving  a  great  deal  of  information  on  the  law  relating  to  auctioneers,  in 
a  very  readable  form." — Law  Journal. 

THE  AGRICULTURAL  VALUER^S  ASSISTANT. 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  the  Valuation  of  Landed  Estates  ;  including  Example 
of  a  Detailed  Report  on  Management  and  Realisation  ;  Forms  of  Valuations  of 
Tenant  Right ;  Lists  of  Local  Agricultural  Customs;  Scales  of  Compensation 
under  the  Agricultural  Holdings  Act,  and  a  Brief  Treatise  on  Compensation 
under  the  Lands  Clauses  Acts,  &c.  By  Tom  Bright,  Agricultural  Valuer, 
Author  of  "  The  Agricultural  Surveyor  and  Estate  Agent's  Handbook."  Fourth 
Edition,  Revised,  with  Appendix  containing  a  Digest  of  the  Agricultural  Holdings 
Acts,  1883-igoo.    Crown  8vo,  cloth  Net  6/- 

"  Full  of  tables  and  examples  in  connection  with  the  valuation  of  tenant-right,  estates,  labour, 
contents  and  weights  of  timber,  and  farm  produce  of  all  kinds." — Agricultural  Gazette. 

"  An  eminently  practical  handbook,  full  of  practical  tables  and  data  of  undoubted  interest  and  value 
to  surveyors  and  auctioneers  in  preparing  valuations  of  all  kinds."— Farwier. 

POLE  PLANTATIONS  AND  UNDERWOODS* 

A  Practical  Handbook  on  Estimating  the  Cost  of  Forming,  Renovating,  Improv- 
ing, and  Grubbing  Plantations  and  Underwoods,  their  Valuation  for  Purposes  of 
Transfer,  Rental,  Sale  or  Assessment.  By  Tom  Bright.  Crown  Svo,  cloth  3/6 

lH?  I^^'"^''^'  foresters  and  agents  it  will  be  a  welcome  aXd."— North  British  Agriculturist. 
Well  calculated  to  assist  the  valuer  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties,  and  of  undoubted  interest  and 
use  both  to  surveyors  and  auctioneers  in  preparing  valuations  of  all  kinds."— iCen^  Herald. 


47 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEYOR  AND  ESTATE  AGENT'S 

HANDBOOK. 

Of  Practical  Rules,  Formulae,  Tables,  and  Data.  A  Comprehensive  Manual  for 
the  Use  of  Surveyors,  Agents,  Landowners,  and  others  interested  in  the  Equip- 
ment, the  Management,  or  the  Valuation  of  Landed  Estates.  By  Tom  Bright, 
Agricultural  Surveyor  and  Valuer,  Author  of  "  The  Agricultural  Valuer's 
Assistant,"  &c.  With  Illustrations.  Fcap.  8vo,  Leather  .  .  Net  7/6 
"  An  exceedingly  useful  book,  the  contents  of  which  are  admirably  chosen.    The  classes  for  whom 

the  work  is  intended  will  find  it  convenient  to  have  this  comprehensive  handbook  accessible  for 

reference." — Live  Stock  Journal. 

"  It  is  a  singularly  compact  and  well  informed  compendium  of  the  facts  and  figures  likely  to  be 

required  in  estate  work,  and  is  certain  to  prove  of  much  service  to  those  to  whom  it  is  addressed."— 

Scotsman. 

THE  LAND  VALUER'S  BEST  ASSISTANT. 

Being  Tables  on  a  very  much  improved  Plan,  for  Calculating  the  Value  of  Estates. 
With  Tables  for  reducing  Scotch,  Irish,  and  Provincial  Customary  Acres  to 
Statute  Measure,  &c.  By  R.  Hudson,  C.E.  New  Edition.  Royal  32mo, 
leather,  elastic  band  .       .       .  .  4/. 

"  Of  incalculable  value  to  the  country  gentleman  and  professional  man." — Farmers'  Journal. 

THE  LAND  IMPROVER'S  POCKET-BOOK. 

Comprising  Formulas,  Tables,  and  Memoranda  required  in  any  Computation 
relating  to  the  Permanent  Improvement  of  Landed  Property.    By  John  Ewart, 
Surveyor.    Second  Edition,  Revised,    Royal  32mo,  oblong,  leather  4/- 
"  A  compendious  and  handy  little  volume."~Spectator. 

THE  LAND  VALUER'S  COMPLETE  POCKET-BOOK. 

Being  the  above  Two  Works  bound  together.    Leather    ,  '     .       .       .  7/© 

HANDBOOK  OF  HOUSE  PROPERTY. 

A  Popular  and  Practical  Guide  to  the  Purchase,  Tenancy,  and  Compulsory  Sale 
of  Houses  and  Land,  including  Dilapidations  and  Fixtures  :  with  Examples  of 
all  kinds  of  Valuations,  Information  on  Building  and  on  the  right  use  of 
Decorative  Art.    By  E.  L.  Tarbuck,  Architect  and  Surveyor.    Sixth  Edition. 

i2mo,  cloth  5/- 

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LAW  AND  MISCELLANEOUS. 


MODERN  JOURNALISM. 

A  Handbook  of  Instruction  and  Counsel  for  the  Young  Journalist.    By  John  B. 
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HANDBOOK  FOR  SOLICITORS  AND  ENGINEERS 

Engaged  in  Promotmg  Private  Acts  of  Parliament  and  Provisional  Orders,  for 
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£1  5s. 

PATENTS  FOR  INVENTIONS,  HOW  TO  PROCURE  THEM. 

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CONCILIATION  AND  ARBITRATION, 
IN  LABOUR  DISPUTES. 

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48 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


EVERY  MAN'S  OWN  LAWYER* 

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fully Revised,  and  comprising  New  Acts  of  Parliament,  including  the  MotoY 
Car  Act,  1903;  Employment  of  Children  Act,  1903;  Pistols  Act,  1903;  Poor 
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[Just  Published.  6/8 

This  Standard  Work  of  Reference  forms  a  Complete  Epitome  of  the  Laws  of 
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THE  RIGHTS  AND  WRONGS  OF  INDIVIDUALS 


Landlord  and  Tenant 
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the  standard  legal  adviser  of  all  classes,  and  has  also  made  a  reputation  for  itself  as  a 
useful  book  of  reference  for  lawyers  residing  at  a  distance  from  law  libraries,  who  are  glad 
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LABOUR  CONTRACTS, 

A  Popular  Handbook  on  the  Law  of  Contracts  for  Works  and  Services.  By 
David  Gibbons.  Fourth  Edition,  with  Appendix  of  Statutes  by  T.  F.  Uttley, 
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BRADBUKV,   AC.NKW,  &  CO.   LD.,   PRINTERS,   LONDON  AND  TONBRIDGE. 


WHALE'S  SERIES 

OF 

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WORKS. 

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^  H^hi  ClassiM  list. 


Civil  Engineering  and  Surveying 

PAGE 

50 

Industrial  and  Useful  Arts  . 

PAGE 

.  57 

Mining  and  Metallurgy    .   .  . 

51 

Agriculture,  Gardening,  Etc. 

.  58 

Mechanical  Engineering  .   .  . 

52 

Mathematics,  Arithmetic,  Etc. 

.  60 

Navigation,  Shipbuilding,  Etc.  . 

53 

Books  of  Reference  and  Mis 

A^rchitectwe  and  Building   .  . 

54 

cellaneous  Volumes.   .  . 

.  62 

CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  AND  SON, 

7,  STATIONERS'  HALL  COURT,  LONDON,  B.C. 

1903. 


50 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


CIVIL  ENGINEERING  &  SURVEYING. 
Civil  Eng'ineeping'. 

By  Henry  Law,  M.  Inst.  C.E.     Including  a  Treatise  on  Hydkaulic  Engineering 
by  G.  R.  BuRNELL,  M.I. C.E.    Seventh  Edition,  revised,  with  Large  Additions  on 
Recent  Practice  by  D.  Kinnear  Clark,  M.  Inst.  C.E.    6/6,  cloth  boards  7/6 
"  An  admirable  volume,  which  we  warmly  recommend  to  young  engineers."— Btd/der. 

Pioneer  Eng'ineering'. 

A  Treatise  on  the  Engineering  Operations  connected  with  the  Settlement  of  Waste 
Lands  in  New  Countries.      By  E.  DoBSON,  M.Inst. C.E.    Second  Edition.       .  4/6 
"Mr.  Dobson  is  familiar  with  the  difficulties  which  have  to  be  overcome  in  this  class  of  work,  and 
much  of  his  advice  will  be  valuable  to  young  engineers  proceeding  to  our  co\on\e?."— Engineering. 

Iron  and  Steel  Bridg'es  and  Viaducts. 

A  Practical  Treadse  upon  their  Construction.  For  the  use  of  Engineers,  Draughtsmen, 
and  Students.    By  Francis  Campin,  C.E  3/6 

Iron  Bridg^es  of  Moderate  Span: 

Their  ConstrucUon  and  Erection.    By  H.  W.  Pendred.    With  40  illustrations  2/0 
"  Students  and  engineers  should  obtain  this  book  for  constant  and  practical  me."— Colliery  Guardian. 

Constructional  Iron  and  Steel  Work, 

As  applied  to  Public,  Private,  and  Domestic  Buildings.  By  Francis  Campin,  C.E.  3/6 
"  This  practical  book  may  be  counted  a  most  valuable  work." — British  Architect. 

Tubular  and  other  Iron  Girder  Bridg'es, 

Describing  the  Britannia  and  Conway  Tubular  Bridges.  With  a  Sketch  of  Iron 
Bridges,  &c.    By  G.  Drysdale  Dempsey,  C.E.    Fourth  Edition  .       .       .  2/0 

Materials  and  Construction. 

A  Theoretical  and  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Strains,  Designing,  and  Erection  of 
Works  of  Construction.     By  Francis  Campin,  C.E.     Second  Edition    .  3/0 
"  No  better  exposition  of  the  practical  application  of  the  principles  of  construction  has  yet  been 
published  to  our  knowledge  in  such  a  cheap  comprehensive  form." — Building  News. 

Sanitary  Work  in  Small  Towns  and  Villag'cs. 

By  Charles  Slagg,  Assoc.  M.  Inst.  C.E.    Second  Edition,  Enlarged    .       .  3/0 
"  This  is  a  very  useful  book.    There  is  a  great  deal  of  work  required  to  be  done  in  the  smaller  towns 
and  villages,  and  this  little  volume  will  help  those  who  are  willing  to  do  it." — Builder. 

Construction  of  Roads  and  Streets. 

I  By  H.  Law,  C.E.,  and  D.  K.  Clark,  C.E.  Sixth  Edition,  revised,  with  Additional 
;        Chapters  by  A  J.  Wallis-Tayler,  A.M.  Inst.  C.E.  {^Just published.  6/0 

I  A  book  which  every  borough  surveyor  and  engineer  must  possess,  and  which  will  be  of  considerable 
sjervice  to  architects,  builders,  and  property  owners  generally." — Building  Ne%vs. 

Construction  of  Gas  Works, 

And  the  Manufacture  and  Distribution  of  Coal  Gas.    By  S.  HUGHES,  C.E.  Re-written 
by  William  Richards,  C.E.    Eighth  Edition,  with  important  Additions        .  5/6 
"Will  be  of  infinite  service  alike  to  manufacturers,  distributors,  and  consumers." — Foreman  Engineer. 

Water  Works,  for  the  Supply  of  Cities  and  Towns. 

With' a  Description  of  the  Principal  Geological  Formations  of  England  as  influencing 

Supplies  of  Water.    By  Samuel  Hughes  4/0 

"Everyone  who  is  debating  how  his  village,  town,  or  city  shall  be  plentifully  supplied  with  pure 
water  should  read  this  hoo]<.."—Ne2vcastle  Couratit. 

Power  of  Water. 

As  applied  to  drive  Flour  Mills,  and  to  give  motion  to  Turbines  and  other  Hydrostatic 
Engines.    By  Joseph  Glynn,  F.  R.S. ,  &c.    New  Editioii.    Illustrated     .       ,  2/0 

Wells  and  Well-Sinking*. 

By  J.  G.  Swindell,  A.R.I.B.A.,  and  G.  R.  Burnell,  C.E.     Revised  Edition  2/0 
"Solid  practical  information,  written  in  a  concise  and  lucid  style.     The  work  can  be  recommended 
as  a  text-book  for  all  surveyors,  architects,  &c. " — Iron  and  Coal  Trades  Revieiu. 

Drainage  of  Lands,  Towns,  and  Building's. 

By  G.  D.  Dempsey,  C.E.  Revised,  with  large  Additions  on  Recent  Practice  in 
Drainage  Engineering,  by  D.  Kinnear  Clark,  M.I. C.E.    Third  Edition       .  4/6 


51 


Blasting"  and  Quarrying"  of  Stone, 

For  Building  and  other  Purposes.  With  Remarks  on  the  Blowing  up  of  Bridges. 
By  Gen.  Sir  J.  Bukgoyne,  K.C.B  1/6 

Foundations  and  Concrete  Works. 

With  Practical  Remarks  on  Footings,  Planking,  Sand,  Concrete,  Beton,  Pile-driving, 
Caissons,  and  Cofferdams.    By  E.  Dobson,  M.R.I.B.A.    Seventh  Edition       .  1/6 

Pneumatics, 

Including  Acoustics  and  the  Phenomena  of  Wind  Currents,  for  the  use  of  Beginners. 
By  Charles  ToMLiNSON,  F.R.S.    Fourth  Edition,  enlarged.    Illustrated        .  1/6 

Land  and  Engineering^  Surveying*. 

For  Students  and  Practical  Use.  By  T.  Baker,  C.E.  Eighteenth  Edition,  revised 
and  extended  by  F.  E.  Dixon,  A.M.'inst.  C.E.    With  Plates  and  Diagrams      .  2/0 

Mensuration  and  Measuring, 

With  the  Mensuration  and  Levelling  of  Land  for  the  purposes  of  Modern  Engineering. 
By  T.  Baker,  C.E.    New  Edition  by  E.  Nugent,  C.E  1/6 


MINING  AND  METALLURGY. 
Mining  Calculations. 

For  the  use  of  Students  Preparing  for  the  Examinations  for  Colliery  Managers' 
Certificates,  comprising  numerous  Rules  and  Examples  in  Arithmetic,  Algebra,  and. 
Mensuration.     By  T.  A.  O'Donahue,  M.E.,  First-class  Certificated  Colliery  Manager. 

[/ust  published,  3/6 

Mineralogy, 

Rudiments  of.    By  A.  RAMSAY,  E.G. S.    Third  Edition.    Woodcuts  and  Plates  3/6 
"The  author  throughout  has  displayed  an  intimate  knowledge  of  his  subject,  and  great  facility  in 
imparting  that  knowledge  to  others.    The  book  is  of  great  utility." — Mining  Journal. 

Coal  and  Coal  Mining*, 

By  the  late  Sir  Warington  W.  Smyth,  M.A.,  F.R.S.,  Eighth  Edition,  Revised  and 
Extended  by  T.  Forster  Brown,  Chief  Inspector  of  the  Mines  of  the  Crown  and  of 

the  Duchy  of  Cornwall  {Just  published.  3/6 

"  Every  portion  of  the  volume  appears  to  have  been  prepared  with  much  care,  and  as  an  outline  is 
given  of  every  known  coal-field  in  this  and  other  countries,  as  well  as  of  the  two  principal  methods  of 
working,  the  book  will  doubtless  interest  a  very  large  number  of  readers." — Mining  Journal. 

Metallurg'y  of  Iron. 

Containing  History  of  Iron  Manufacture,  Methods  of  Assay,  and  Analyses  of  Iron  Ores, 
Processes  of  Manufacture  of  Iron  and  Steel,  &c.    By  H.  Bauerman,  F.G.S.,  A.R.S.M. 
With  numerous  Illustrations.    Sixth  Edition,  revised  and  enlarged    .       .       .  6/0. 
"Carefully  written,  it  has  the  merit  of  brevity  and  conciseness,  as  to  less  important  points  ;  while  all 
material  matters  are  very  fully  and  thoroughly  entered  into." — Sta^tdard. 

Mineral  Surveyor  &  Valuer's  Complete  Guide. 

Comprising  a  Treatise  on  Improved  Mining  Surveying  and  the  Valuation  of  Mining 
Properties,  with  New  Traverse  Tables.  By  W.  LinVern,  C.E.,  Third  Edition,  with  an 
Appendix  on  Magnetic  and  Angular  Surveying,  with  Records  of  the  Peculiarities  of 
Needle  Disturbances.  With  Four  Plates  of  Diagrams,  Plans,  &c.  .  .  .  3/6 
"  Contains  much  valuable  information,  and  is  thoroughly  trustworthy." — Iron  &' Coal  Trades  Revietv. 

Slate  and  Slate  Quarrying*, 

Scientific,  Practical,  and  Commercial.     By  D.  C.  Da  vies,  F.G.S.  ,  Mining  Engineer,  &c. 
With  numerous  Illustrations  and  Folding  Plates.    Third  Edition       .       .       .  3/0 
"  One  of  the  best  and  best-balanced  treatises  on  a  special  subject  that  we  have  met  with." — Engineer. 

A  First  Book  of  Minings  and  Quarrying. 

By  J.  H.  Collins,  F.G.S  1/6 

"  For  those  concerned  in  schools  in  the  mining  districts,  this  work  is  the  very  thing  that  should  be  in 
the  hands  of  their  schoolmasters."— /rfw. 

Subterraneous  Surveying*. 

By  Thomas  Fenwick.  Also  the  Method  of  Conducting  Subterraneous  Surveys 
without  the  use  of  the  Magnetic  Needle,  &c.    By  T.  Baker,  C.E.     .       .       .  2/6 

Mining  Tools, 

Manual  of.    By  W.  Morgans,  Lecturer  on  Mining  at  the  Bristol  School  of  Mines  2/6 

Mining  Tools,  Atlas 

Of  Engravings  to  the  above,  containing  235  Illustrations  drawn  to  Scale.    4to.   .  4/6 
"Students,  Overmen,  Captains,  Managers,  and  Viewers  may  gain  practical  knowledge  and  useful 
hints  by  the  study  of  Mr.  Morgans'  Manual." — Colliery  Guardian. 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


=>hysieal  Geolog'y, 

Partly  based  on  Major-General  Portlock's  "Rudiments  of  Geology."  By  Ralph 
Tate,  A.L.S.,  &c.    Woodcuts  2/0 

iistopical  Geolog-y, 

Partly  based  on  Major-General  PoRTLOCX's  "  Rudiments. '  By  Ralph  Tate  .  2/6 

xeolog^y. 

Physical  and  Hlstorical.    Consisting  of  "  Physical  Geology,'  which  sets  forth  the 
Leading  Principles  of  the  Science;  and  "Historical  Geology,"  which  treats  of  the 
Mineral  and  Organic  Conditions  of  the  Earth  at  each  successive  epoch.    By  Ralph 
Tate,  F.G.S.    With  250  Illustrations        .       .       .       .       .  .  4/0 

"  The  fulness  of  the  matter  has  elevated  the  book  into  a  manual.  Its  information  is  exhaustive  and 
ell-arranged,  so  that  any  suDject  may  be  opened  upon  at  once." — School  Board  Chronicle. 


MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING. 
Vopkman's  Manual  of  Eng'ineeping'  Drawing^. 

By  John  Maxton,  Instructor  in  Engineering  Drawing,  Royal  Naval  College,  Green- 
wich.   Seventh  Edition.    300  Plates  and  Diagrams    ......  3/6 

"A  copy  of  it  should  be  kept  for  reference  in  every  drawing  office." — Engineering. 

^uels  :  Solid,  Liquid,  and  Gaseous. 

Their  Analysis  and  Valuation.    For  the  use  of  Chemists  and  Engineers.    B)'  H,  J. 
Phillips,  F.C.S.,  formerly  Analytical  and  Consulting  Chemist  to  the  Great  Eastern 
Railway.    Second  Edition,  revised       .........  2/0 

"  Ought  to  have  its  place  in  the  laboratory  of  every  metallurgical  establishment,  and  wherever  fuel  is 
sed  on  a  large  scale." — Cheinical  News. 

TueV^  Its  Combustion  and  Economy. 

Consisting  of  an  Abridgment  cf  "  A  Treatise  on  the  Combustion  of  Coal  and  the 
Prevention  of  Smoke."    By  C.  W.  Williams,  A.I.C.E.     With  extensive  Additions 
by  D.  KiNNEAR  Clark,  M.  Inst.  C.E.    Third  Edition,  corrected     .       .       .  3/6 
"Students  should  buy  the  book  and  read  it,  as  one  of  the  most  complete  and  satisfactoiy  treatises  on 
le  combustion  and  economy  of  fuel  to  be  had." — Engineer. 

3oilepmakep's  Assistant 

In  Drawing,  Templating,  and  Calculating  Boiler  Work,  &c.      By  J.  Courtney, 
Practical  Boilermaker.    Edited  by  D.  K.  Clark,  C.E.    Third  Edition,  revised  2/0 
"With  very  great  care  we  have  gone  through  the  '  Boilermaker's  Assistant,'  and  have  to  say  that  it 
as  our  unqualified  approval.    Scarcely  a  point  has  been  omitted." — Foreman  Engitieer. 

3oilepmakep's  Ready  Reekonep, 

With  Examples  of  Practical  Geometry  and  Templating  for  the  Use  of  Platers,  Smiths, 
and  Riveters.    By  John  Courtney.     Edited  by  D.  K.  Clark,  M.I. C.E.    .  4/0 
^*  The  last  two  Works  in  One  Vol.,  half-bound,  entitled  "The  Boilermaker's  Ready 
Reckoner  and  Assistant."    By  J.  Courtney  and  D.  K.  Clark.    Price  7/0 
"  A  most  useful  work.    No  workman  or  apprentice  should  be  without  it." — Iron  Trade  Circular. 

Steam  Boileps. 

Their  Construction  and  Management.    By  R.  Armstrong,  C.E.    Illustrated  .  1/6 
"A  mass  of  information  suitable  for  beginners." — Design  and  Work. 

Steam  and  Machinepy  Manag^ement. 

A  Guide  to  the  Arrangement  and  Economical  Management  of  Machinery,  with  Hints  on 
Construction  and  Selection.    By  M.  Powis  Bale,  M.  Inst.  M.E.      .       .       .  2/6 
"Gives  the  results  of  wide  experience." — Lloyd's  Newspaper. 

3team  and  the  Steam  Eng>ine, 

Stationary  and  Portable.    Being  an  Extension  of  the  Treatise  on  the  Steam  Engine  of 
Mr.  J.  Sewell.    By  D.  K.  Clark,  C.E.     Third  Edition       ....  3/6 
"  Every  essential  part  of  the  subject  is  treated  of  competently,  and  in  a  popular  style."— /r<7«. 

rhe  Steam  Eng>ine, 

A  Treatise  on  the  Mathematical  Theory  of,  with  Rules  and  Examples  for  Practical 

Men.    By  T.  Baker,  C.E  1/6 

"Teems  with  scientific  information  with  reference  to  the  steam-engine." — Design  and  Work. 

rhe  Steam  Eng>ine. 

For  the  use  of  Beginners.    By  Dr.  Lardner.    Illustrated         ....  1/6 

Locomotive  Eng^ines. 

A  Rudimentary  Treatise  on.    By  G.  D.  Dempsey,  C.E.    With  large  Additions  treating 
of  the  Modern  Locomotive,  by  D.  K.  Clark,  M.  Inst.  C.E.    With  Illustrations  3/0 
"A  model  of  what  an  elementary  technical  book  should  be." — Academy. 


WEALE'S  SCIENTll^IC  AND  TECHNICAL  SERIES.  531 


Locomotive  Eng'ine-Dpiving'. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Engineers  in  Charge  of  Locomotive  Engines.    By  Michael! 
Reynolds,  M.S.E.    Tenth  Edition.    3/6  limp  ;  cloth  boards         ...  4/6! 
"  We  can  confidently  recommend  the  book,  not  only  to  the  practical  driver,  but  to  ever>'one  whoj 
takes  an  interest  in  the  performance  of  locomotive  engines." — The  Engineer.  ■ 

Stationary  Eng^ine  Driving*. 

A  Practical  Manual  for  Engineers  in  Charge  of  Stationary  Engines.  By  MiCHAELi 
Reynolds,  M.S.E.    Sixth  Edition.    3/6  limp  ;  cloth  boards  .       .       .  ^fOi' 

"The  author  is  thoroughly  acquainted  with  his  suVjjects,  and  has  produced  a  manual  which  is  anj 
exceedingly  useful  one  for  the  class  for  whom  it  is  specially  intended." — Engineering.  j 

Smithy  and  Forge. 

Including  the  Farrier's  Art  and  Coach  Smithing.     By  W.  J.  E.  Crane.     ,  2/6^ 
"  The  first  modern  English  book  on  the  subject.    Great  pains  have  been  bestowed  by  the  author] 
upon  the  book  ;  shoeing-smiths  will  find  it  both  useful  and  interesting." — Builder. 

Modern  Workshop  Practice,  ! 

As  applied  to  Marine,  Land,  and  Locomotive  Engines,  Floating  Docks,  Dredging^ 
Machines,  Bridges,  Ship-Building,  &c.    By  J.  G.  Winton.   4th  Edn.,  Illustrated  3/6i 
"Whether  for  the  apprentice  determined  to  master  his  profession,  or  for  the  artisan  bent  upon  raisings 
himself  to  a  higher  position,  this  clearly-written  and  practical  treatise  will  be  a  great  help." — Scotsman. 

Mechanical  Eng^ineering. 

Comprising  Metallurgy,  Moulding,  Casting,  Forging,  Tools,  Workshop  Machinery,; 
Mechanical  Manipulation,  Manufacture  of  the  Steam  Engine,  &c.  By  Francis  Campin,! 
C.E.    Third  Edition,  Re-written  and  Enlarged  [^/test published.  2/6| 

"A  sound  and  serviceable  text-book,  quite  up  to  date." — Building  Neivs. 

Details  of  Machinery. 

Comprising  Instructions  for  the  Execution  of  various  Works  in  Iron  in  the  Fitting-i 

shop,  Foundry,  and  Boiler- Yard.    By  Francis  Campin,  C.E  3/Oi 

"A  sound  and  practical  handbook  for  all  engaged  in  the  engineering  trades." — Building  World.  \ 

Elementary  Engineering^ :  | 

A  Manual  for  Young  Marine  Engineers  and  Apprentices.  In  the  Form  of  Questions' 
and  Answers  on  Metals,  Alloys,  Strength  of  Materials,  &c.  By  J.  S.  Brewer. 
Second  Edition     .............  l/QI 

"A  useful  introduction  to  the  more  elaborate  text-books." — Scotsman.  \ 

Power  in  Motion : 

Horse-power  Motion,  Toothed- Wheel  Gearing,  Long  and  Short  Driving  Bands,  Angular! 
Forces,  &c.    ByjAMES  Armour,  C.E.    With  73  Diagrams.    Third  Edition    .  2/0] 
"  The  value  of  the  knowledge  imparted  cannot  well  be  over-estimated." — Newcastle  Weekly  Chron. 

Iron  and  Heat. 

Exhibiting  the  Principles  concerned  in  the  Construction  of  Iron  Beams,  Pillars  andl 

Girders.    By  J.  Armour,  C.E  2/6 

"A  very  useful  and  thoroughly  practical  little  volume." — Mining  Journal,  ! 

Practical  Mechanism, 

And  Machine  Tools.  By  T.  Baker,  C.E.  With  Remarks  on  Tools  and  Machinery | 
by  J.  Nasmyth,  C.E.  2/6 

Mechanics. 

Being  a  concise  Exposition  of  the  General  Principles  of  Mechanical  Science,  and  theirj 
Applications.    By  Charles  Tomlinson,  F.R.S.  1/6 

Cranes, 

The  Construction  of,  and  other  Machinery  for  Raising  Heavy  Bodies  for  the  Erection 
of  Buildings,  &c.    By  Joseph  Glynn,  F.  R.S  1/6 


NAVIGATION,  SHIPBUILDING,  etc.  I 

I 

Sailor's  Sea  Book: 

A  Rudimentary  Treatise  on  Navigation.   By  James  Greenwood,  B.  A.   With  numerous 
Woodcuts  and  Coloured  Plates.    New  and  Enlarged  Edition.    By  W.  H.  Rosser  2/6 
"  Is  perhaps  the  best  and  simplest  epitome  of  navigation  ever  compiled." — Field. 

Practical  Navigation. 

Consisting  of  the  Sah.or's  Sea  Book,  by  James  Greenwood  and  W.  H.  Rosser  ;  i 
together  with  Mathematical  and  Nautical  Tables  for  the  Working  of  the  Problems,  by  ; 
Henry  Law,  C.E.,  and  Prof.  J.  R.  Young.    Half-bound  in  leather  .       .       .  7/6 
"A  vast  amount  of  information  is  contained  in  this  volume,  and  we  fancy  in  a  very  short  time  that  it 
will  be  seen  in  the  library  of  almost  every  ship  or  yacht  afloat." — Htcjit's  Yachting  Magazine. 

Navigation  and  Nautical  Astronomy, 

In  Theory  and  Practice.    By  Prof.  J.  R.  Young.    New  Edition.    Illustrated    .  2/6 
"  A  very  complete,  thorough,  and  useful  manual  for  the  young  navigator." — Obsematory .  \ 


54 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


Mathematical  Tables, 

For  'J'rigonometrical,  Astronomical,  and  Nautical  Calculations  ;  to  which  is  prefixed  a 
Treatise  on  Logarithms,  by  H.  Law,  C.E.  Together  with  a  Series  of  Tables  for 
Navigation  and  Nautical  Astronomy.    By  Professor  J.  R.  Young.    New  Edition  4/0 

Masting",  Mast-Making,  and  Rig'ging  of  Ships. 

Also  Tables  of  Spars,  Rigging,  P>locks  ;  Chain,  Wire,  and  Hemp  Ropes,  &c.,  relative 
to  every  class  of  vessels.    By  Robp:rt  Kipping,  N.A  2/0 

Sails  and  Sail-Making. 

With  Draughting,  and  the  Centre  of  Effort  of  the  Sails.  Weights  and  Sizes  of  Ropes  ; 
Masting,  Rigging,  and  Sails  of  Steam  Vessels,  &c.    By  R.  Kipping,  N.A.        .  2/6 

Marine  Engines  and  Steam  Vessels. 

By  R.  Murray,  C.E.    Eighth  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised,  with  Additions  by  the 

Author  and  by  George  Carlisle,  C.E  4/6 

"  An  indispensable  manual  for  the  student  of  marine  eng\nQenng.''~Liver/ool  Merc7^fy. 

Naval  Arehitectupe. 

An  E.xposition  of  the  Elementary  Principles.    By  James  Peake  .       .       .  3/6 

Ships  fop  Ocean  and  Rivep  Sepviee, 

Principles  of  the  Construction  of.    By  H.  A.  SOMMERFELDT     ....  1/6 

An  Atlas  of  Eng'paving's 

To  Illustrate  the  above.    Twelve  large  folding  Plates.    Royal  4to,  cloth     .       .  7/6 

Ships  and  Boats. 

By  W.  Bland.    Seventh  Edition,  revised,  with  numerous  Illustrations  and  Models  1/6 


ARCHITECTURE  AND  BUILDING. 
Constpuctional  Ipon  and  Steel  Wopk, 

As  applied  to  Public,  Private,  and  Domestic  Buildings.   By  FRANCIS  Campin,  C.E.  3/6 
"  Anyone  who  wants  a  book  on  ironwork  as  employed  for  stanchions,  columns,  and  beams,  will  find 
the  present  volume  to  be  suitable." — British  Architect. 

Building  Estates: 

A  Treatise  on  the  Development,  Sale,  Purchase,  and  Management  of  Building  Land. 

By  F.  Maitland.    Second  Edition,  revised  2/0 

"This  book  should  undoubtedly  be  added  to  the  library  of  every  professional  man  dealing  with 
building  land." — Land  Agent's  Record. 

Science  of  Building*: 

An  Elementary  Treatise  on  tlie  Principles  of  Construction.  By  E.  Wyndham  Tarn, 
M.A.  Lond.    Third  Edition,  revised  and  enlarged        .....  3/6 

Apt  of  Building", 

Rudiments  of.  General  Principles  of  Construction,  Strength,  and  Use  of  Materials. 
Working  Drawings,  Specifications,  &c.    By  Edward  Dobson,  M.  R.I.B.A.  &c.  2/0 

"  A  good  book  for  practical  knowledge,  and  about  the  best  to  be  obtained." — Building  News. 

Book  on  Building, 

Civil  and  Ecclesiastical.    By  Sir  Edmund  Beckett,  Bart.,  LL.D.,  Q.C,  F.R.A.S., 
Author  of  "  Clocks  and  Watches  and  Bells,"  &c.    Second  Edition,  enlarged.     .  4/6 
"  A  book  which  is  always  amusing  and  nearly  always  instructive." — Times. 

Dwelling-Houses, 

Erection  of.  Illustrated  by  a  Perspective  View,  Plans,  Elevations,  and  Sections  of  a  Pair 
of  Villas,  with  the  Specification,  Quantities,  and  Estimates.    By  S.  H.  Brooks  2/6 

Cottage  Building'. 

By  C.  Bruce  Allen.  Eleventh  Edition,  with  Chapter  on  Economic  Cottages  for 
A'lbtnients,  by  E.  E.  Allen,  C.E  2/0 

Acoustics  of  Public  Buildings  : 

The  Laws  of  Sound  as  applied  to  the  Arrangement  of  Buildings.  By  Professor 
T.  Rogi:r  Smith,  F.R.I.B.A.    New  Edition,  revised.    With  numerous  Illustrations. 

[  Just  published.  1/6 

Ppactical  Bpicklaying. 

General  Principles  of  l^ricklaying  ;  Arch  Drawing,  Cutting  and  Setting;  Pointing; 
Paving,  Tiling,  &c.    By  Adam  Hammond.    With  68  Woodcuts      .       .       .  1/6 

"The  young  bricklayer  will  find  it  infinitely  valuable  to  \\\m."— Glasgow  Herald. 

Apt  of  Ppactical  Bpick-Cutting*  and  Setting'. 

By  Adam  Hammond.    With  90  Engravings  1/6 


WEALE'S  SCIENTIFIC  AND  TECHNICAL  SERIES. 


55 


Bpiekwopk : 

Embodying  the  General  and  Higher  Principles  of  Bricklaying,  Cutting  and  Setting  ; 
with  the  Application  of  Geometry  to  Roof  Tiling,  &c.    By  F.  Walkkr      .       ,  1/6 
"Contains  all  that  a  young  tradesman  or  student  needs  to  learn  from  books." — Building  Nezvs. 

Bpicks  and  Tiles, 

Rudimentary  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of.  Containing  an  Outline  of  the  Principles 
of  Brickmaking.  By  E.  DOBSON,  M.R.I.B.A.  Additions  by  C.  Tomlinson,  F.R.S. 
Illustrated    . '   .       .       .       .  3/0 

"  The  best  handbook  on  the  subject.    We  can  safely  recommend  it  as  a  good  investment." — Builder. 

Praetieal  Briek  and  Tile  Book. 

Comprising  :  Brick  and  Tile  Making,  by  B3.  Dobson,  M.Inst.C.E.;  Practical  Brick- 
laying, by  A.  Hammond  ;  Brick-Cutting  and  Setting,  by  A.  Hammond.  550  pp. 
with  270  Illustrations,  strongly  half-bound   .       .  6/0 

Carpentry  and  Joinery— 

The  Elementary  Principles  of  Carpentry.  Chiefly  composed  from  the  Standard 
Work  of  Thomas  Tredgold,  C.E.  With  Additions,  and  a  Treatise  on 
Joinery  by  E.  W.  Tarn,  M.A.    Sixth  Edition,  revised  and  extended    ,       .  3/6 

Carpentry  and  Joinery. 

Atlas  of  35  Plates  to  accompany  and  illustrate  the  foregoing  book.  With  Descriptive 
Letterpress.    4to.        ............  6/0 

"  These  two  volumes  form  a  complete  treasury  of  carpentry  and  joinery,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of 
■every  carpenter  and  joiner  in  the  Empire." — Irvn. 

Practical  Treatise  on  Handrailing^ : 

Showing  New  and  Simple  Methods.     By  Geo.  Collings.     Second  Edition,  Revised, 
including  a  Treatise  on  Stairbuilding.    With  Plates         .       .       .       ,  2/6 
"  Will  be  found  of  practical  utility  in  the  execution  of  this  difficult  branch  of  joinery." — Builder. 

Circular  Work  in  Carpentry  and  Joinery. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Circular  Work  of  Single  and  Double  Curvature.    By  George 

Collings.    Second  Edition  ^     .       .       .       ,  2/6 

"Cheap  in  price,  clear  in  definition,  and  practical  in  the  examples  selected." — Builder. 

Roof  Carpentry  : 

Practical  Lessons  in  the  Framing  of  Wood  Roofs.  For  the  use  of  Working  Carpenters. 
By  Geo.  Collings,  Author  of  "  Handrailing  and  Stairbuilding,"  &c.       .       .  2/0 

Construction  of  Roofs,  of  Wood  and  Iron  : 

Deduced  chiefly  from  the  Works  of  Robison,  Tredgold,  and  Humber.  By  E. 
Wyndham  Tarn.  M.A.,  Architect.    Second  Edition,  revised  .       .       .  1/6 

"  Mr.  Tarn  is  so  thoroughly  master  of  his  subject,  that  although  the  treatise  was  founded  on  the  works 
of  others  he  has  given  it  a  distinct  value  of  his  own.    It  will  be  found  valuable  by  all  students." — Builder. 

The  Joints  Made  and  Used  by  Builders. 

By  Wyvill  J.  Christy,  Architect.    With  160  Woodcuts         ....  3/0 
"  The  work  is  de.serving  of  high  commendation." — Builder. 

Shoring^, 

And  its  Application  :  A  Handbook  for  the  use  of  Students.    By  G.  H.  Blagrove  1/6 
"  We  recommend  this  valuable  treatise  to  all  students." — Building  News. 

Timber  Importer's,   Timber   Merchant's,  and 
Builder's  Standard  Guide. 

By  R.  E.  Grandy  2/0 

"  Everything  it  pretends  to  be  :  built  up  gradually,  it  leads  one  from  a  forest  to  a  treenail,  and  throws 
in,  as  a  makeweight,  a  host  of  material  concerning  bricks,  columns,  cisterns,  &c." — English  Mechanic. 

Plumbing' : 

A  Text-Book  to  the  Practice  of  the  Art  or  Craft  of  the  Plumber.     With  Chapters  upon 
House  Drainage  and  Ventilation.    By  Wm.  Baton  Buchan,  R.P.,  vSanitary  Engineer. 
Eighth  Edition,  Re-written  and  Enlarged,  with  500  Illustrations  ....  3/6 
"A  text-book  which  may  be  safely  put  into  the  hands  of  every  young  plumber,  and  which  will  also 
be  found  useful  by  architects  and  medical  professors." — Builder. 

Ventilation : 

A  Text-Book  to  the  Practice  of  the  Art  of  Ventilating  Buildings.  By  W.  P.  Buchan, 
R. P.,  Author  of  "  Plumbing,"  &c.    With  170  Illustrations        ....  3/6 

The  Practical  Plasterer: 

A  Compendium  of  Plain  and  Ornamental  Plaster  Work.    By  Wilfred  Kemp  2/0 

House  Painting*,  Graining*,  Marbling",  and  Sig'n 
Writing^ : 

With  a  Course  of  Elementary  Drawing,  and  a  Collection  of  Useful  Receipts.    By  Ellis 

A.  Davidson.    Eighth  Edition.    Coloured  Plates  5/0 

The  above,  i?t  cloth  boards,  strongly  bound,  6/0. 
*' A  mass  of  information  of  use  to  the  amateur  and  of  value  to  the  practical  man." — English  Mechc^nic. 


56 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


Gpammap  of  Colouring:. 

Applied  to  Decorative  Painting  and  the  Arts.    By  GEORGE  Field.    New  Edition, 
revised  and  enlarged  by  Ellis  A.  Davidson.    With  Coloured  Plates       .       .  3/0 
"  The  book  is  a  most  useful  resume  of  the  properties  of  pigments." — Builder. 

Elementary  Decoration: 

As  Applied  to  Dwelling-Houses,  &c.    By  James  W.  Facey.    Illustrated  .       .  2/0 
"The  principles  which  ought  to  guide  the  decoration  of  dwelling-houses  are  clearly  set  forth,  and 
elucidated  by  examples ;  while  full  instructions  are  given  to  the  X^zxntx."— Scotsman. 

Practical  House  Decoration. 

A  Guide  to  the  Art  of  Ornamental  Painting,  the  Arrangement  of  Colours  in  Apartments^, 
and  the  Principles  of  Decorative  Design.    By  James  W.  Facey        .       .       .  2/6 
* ^*  The  last  two  Works  in  One  handsome  Vol.,  half-bound,  entitled  "House  DECORATION, 
Elementary  and  Practical,"  ;>rzVg  5/0. 

Portland  Cement  for  Users. 

By  Henry  Faija,  A.M.  Inst.  C.E.    Third  Edition,  corrected   ....  2/0 
"  Supplies  in  a  small  compass  all  that  is  necessary  to  be  known  by  users  of  cement." — Btdldmg News. 

Limes,  Cements,  Mortars,  Concretes,  Mastics, 
Plastering",  &c. 

By  G.  R.  BuRNELL,  C.E.    Thirteenth  Edition  1/6- 

Masonry  and  Stonecutting*, 

The  Principles  of  Masonic  Projection,  and  their  Application  to  Construction.  Bjr 
E.  DoBSON,  M.R.I.B.A  2/6' 

Arches,  Piers,  Buttresses,  &c. 

Experimental  Essays  on  the  Principles  of  Construction  in.  By  William  Bland  1/6- 

Quantities  and  Measurements, 

In  Bricklayers',  Masons',  Plasterers',  Plumbers',  Painters',  Paperhangers',  Gilders', 
Smiths',  Carpenters'  and  Joiners'  Work.    By  A.  C.  Beaton,  Surveyor      .       .  1/6- 
"  This  book  is  indispensable  to  builders  and  their  quantity  clerks." — English  Mechanic. 

Complete  Measurer; 

Setting  forth  the  Measurement  of  Boards,  Glass,  Timber,  and  Stone.    By  R.  HoRTON. 

Fifth  Edition  4/0 

The  above,  stronoly  bound  in  leather,  price  5/0. 

Light : 

An  Introduction  to  the  Science  of  Optics.  Designed  for  the  Use  of  Students  of 
Architecture,  Engineering,  and  other  Applied  Sciences.  By  E,  W.  Tarn,  M.A.  .  1/6 

Hints  to  Youngs  Architects. 

By  George  Wightwick,  Architect,  Author  of  "  The  Palace  of  Architecture,"  &c.,  &c. 
Fifth  Edition,  revised  and  enlarged  by  G.  HUSKISSON  GuiLLAUME,  Architect    .  3/6 
"  A  copy  ought  to  be  considered  as  necessary  a  purchase  as  a  box  of  instruments." — A7-chitect. 

Architecture— Orders. 

The  Orders  and  their  Esthetic  Principles.    By  W.  H.  Leeds.    Illustrated       .  1/6 

Architecture— Styles. 

The  History  and  Description  of  the  Styles  of  Architecture  of  Various  Countries,  from 
the  Earliest  to  the  Present  Period.  By  T.  Talbot  Bury,  F.R.I.B.A.,  &c.  Illus- 
trated  2/0 

"Orders  and  Styles  of  Architecture,"  i7i  One  Vol.,  3/6. 

Architecture— Desig^n. 

The  Principles  of  Design  in  Architecture,  as  deducible  from  Nature  and  exemplified  in 
the  Works  of  the  Greek  and  Gothic  Architects.    By  Edw.  L.  Garbett,  Architect  2/6 
"  We  know  no  work  that  we  would  sooner  recommend  to  an  attentive  reader  desirous  to  obtain  clear 
views  of  the  nature  of  architectural  art.    The  book  is  a  valuable  one." — Builder. 

***  The  three  preceding   Works   in    One  handsome   Vol.,  half-bound,  entitled  "MODERN 

Architecture,"  price  6/0. 

Architectural  Modellings  in  Paper, 

The  Art  of.  By  T.  A.  Richardson.  With  Illustrations,  engraved  by  O.  Jewitt  1/6 

"A  valuable  aid  to  the  practice  of  architectural  modelling." — Builder^s  IVeelcly  Reporter. 

Perspective  for  Beg"inners. 

For  Students  and  Amateurs  in  Architecture,  Painting,  &c.    By  G.  Pyne    .       .  2/0 

Glass  Staining-,  and  the  Art  of  Painting^  on  Glass. 

From  the  German  of  Dr.  Gkssert  and  Emanuel  Otto  Fromberg.  With  an 
Appendi.x  on  The  Art  ok  Enamelling  2/6 


WEALE'S  SCIENTIFIC  AND  TECHNICAL  SERIES. 


Vitpuvius— The  Arehitectupe  of  Mapeus  Vitpuvius 
Pollio. 

In  Ten  Books.    Translated  from  the  Latin  by  Joseph  Gwilt,  F.S.A.,  F.  R.A.S. 

With  23  Plates  5/0 

N.B.  —  This  is  the  only  Edition     VlTRUVlus  procurable  at  a  moderate  price. 

Gpeeian  Apehiteetupe, 

An  Inquiry  into  the  Principles  of  Beauty  in  ;  with  an  Historical  View  of  the  Rise  and 
Progress  of  the  Art  in  Greece.    By  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen      ....  1/0 
The  two  preceding   Works  in  One  handsome   Vol.,  half-bound,  entitled  "Ancient 
Architecture,  "/r/<;^  6/0. 


INDUSTRIAL  AND  USEFUL  ARTS. 
Cements,  Pastes,  Glues,  and  Gums. 

A  Guide  to  the  Manufacture  and  Application  of  Agglutinants  for  Workshop,  Laboratory, 
or  Office  Use.    With  900  Recipes  and  Formulae.    By  H.  C.  Standage    .       .  2/0 
"  As  a  revelation  of  what  are  considered  trade  secrets,  this  book  will  arouse  an  amount  of  curiosity 
among  the  large  number  of  industries  it  touches." — Daily  Chronicle. 

Clocks  and  Watches,  and  Bells, 

A  Rudimentary  Treatise.     By  Sir  Edmund  Beckett.     Seventh  Edition.       .  4/6 
***    The  above,  haiidsoinely  bound.  Cloth  Boards,  5/6. 
"  The  best  work  on  the  subject  probably  extant.    The  treatise  on  bells  is  undoubtedly  the  best  in  the 
language." — Engineeri^ig.    "  The  only  modern  treatise  on  clock-making." — Horological  Journal. 

Electpo-Metallupg^y, 

Practically  Treated.    By  Alexander  Watt.    Tenth  Edition,  enlarged  and  revised. 
With  Additional  Illustrations,  and  including  the  most  Recent  Processes     .       .  3/6 
"  From  this  hook  both  amateur  and  artisan  may  learn  everything  necessary." — Iron. 

Goldsmith's  Handbook, 

Containing  full  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Alloying,  Melting,  Reducing,  Colouring, 
Collecting,  and  Refining.  The  processes  of  Manipulation,  Recovery  of  Waste, 
Chemical  and  Physical  Properties  of  Gold  ;  Solders,  Enamels,  and  other  useful  Rules 
and  Recipes,  &c.  By  George  E.  Gee.  Third  Edition,  considerably  enlarged  3/0 
"  A  good,  sound,  technical  educator." — Horological  Journal. 

Silvepsmith's  Handbook, 

On  the  same  plan  as  the  above.    By  George  E.  Gee.   Second  Edition,  Revised  3/0 
"A  valuable  sequel  to  the  author's  'Practical  Goldworker.' " — Silversmith's  Trade  Journal. 
*^^*  The  two  preceding  Works,  in  One  handsome  Vol.,  half-bound,  entitled  "The 
Goldsmith's  and  Silversmith's  Complete  Handbook,"  7/0. 

Hall-Mapking^  of  Jewellepy. 

Comprising  an  account  of  all  the  different  Assay  Towns  of  the  United  Kingdom  ;  with 
the  Stamps  at  present  employed  ;  also  the  Laws  relating  to  the  Standards  and  Hall- 

Marks  at  the  various  Assay  Offices.    By  George  E.  Gee  3/0 

"Deals  thoroughly  with  its  subject  from  a  manufacturer's  and  dealer's  point  oi  \\&\\.'"— Jeweller. 

Fpench  Polishing^  and  Enamelling^. 

A  Practical  Book  of  Instruction,  including  numerous  Recipes  for  making  Polishes, 
Varnishes,  Glaze-Lacquers,  Revivers,  etc.    By  Richard  Bitmead. 

Just  published.  1/6 

Ppactical  Opg^an  Building'. 

By  W.  E.  Dickson,  M.A.,  Precentor  of  Ely  Cathedral.  Second  Edition,  Revised  2/6 
"The  amateur  builder  will  find  in  this  book  all  that  is  necessary  to  enable  him  personally  to  construct 
a  perfect  organ  with  his  own  hands." — Academy. 

Coach-Building : 

A  Practical  Treatise,  Historical  and  Descriptive.     By  James  W.  Burgess    .  2/6 
"This  handbook  will  supply  a  long-felt  want,  not  only  to  manufacturers  themselves,  but  more 
particularly  apprentices,  and  others  connected  with  the  trade  of  coach-building." — European  Mail. 

The  Cabinet-Makep's  Guide 

To  the  Entire  Construction  of  Cabinet-Work,  including  Veneering,  Marqueterie,  Buhl- 
Work,  Mosaic,  Inlaying,  Working  and  Polishing  Ivory,  Trade  Recipes,  &c.  By 
Richard  Bitmead.    With  Plans,  Sections,  and  Working  Drawings. 

[Just  published.  2/6 

Bpass  Foundep's  Manual: 

Instructions  for  Modelling,  Pattern  Making,  Moulding,  Turning,  &c.  By  W. 
Graham  2/0 

Sheet  Metal-Wopkep's  Guide. 

A  Practical  Handbook  for  Tinsmiths,    Coppersmiths,   Zincworkers,    &c.,  with  46 
Diagrams  and  Working  Patterns.    By  W.  J.  E.  Crane.    Second  Edition,  revised  1/6 
"  The  author  has  acquitted  himself  with  considerable  tact  in  choosing  his  examples,  and  with  no 
less  ability  in  treating  them." — Plumber. 


58 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


Sewing"  Maehinery. 

Construction,  History,  Adjusting,  &c.    By  J.  W.  Urquhart,  C.E.  .       .       .  2/0 

Gas  Fitting*: 

A  Practical  Handbook.   By  John  BLACK.   Revised  Edition.  With  130  Illustrations  2/6 
"It  is  written  in  a  simple  practical  style,  and  we  heartily  recommend  it." — PluJiiber  and  Decorator. 

Construction  of  Door  Locks. 

From  the  Papers  of  A.  C.  Hobbs.     Edited  by  Charles  Tomlinson,  F.R.S.  With 


a  Note  upon  Iron  Safes  by  Robert  Mallet.    Illustrated.    .       .       /      .  2/6 

The  Model  Locomotive  Eng'ineer,  Fireman,  and 
Engine-Boy. 

By  Michael  Reynolds  3/6 


Art  of  Letter  Painting*  made  Easy. 

By  James  Greig  Badenoch.    With  12  full-page  Engravings  of  Examples.      .  1/6 
"Any  intelligent  lad  who  fails  to  turn  out  decent  work  after  studying  this  system,  has  mistaken  his 
vocation. " — English  Mechanic. 

Art  of  Boot  and  Shoemaking*, 

Including   Measurement,   Last-fitting,   Cutting-out,  Closing  and   Making ;    with  a 
Description  of  the  most  Approved  Machinery  employed.      By  J.  B.  Leno       ,  2/0 
"  By  far  the  best  work  ever  written  on  the  subject." — Scottish  Leather  Trader. 

Mechanical  Dentistry: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Construction  of  the  Various  Kinds  of  Artificial  Dentures, 
comprising  also  Useful  Fornuilae,  Tables  and  Receipts.    By  C.  Hunter    .       .  3/0 

Wood  Eng'raving': 

A  Practical  and  Easy  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  the  Art.    By  W.  N.  Brown  1/6 

Laundry  Management. 

A  Handbook  for  Use  in  Private  and  Public  Laundries.    Including  Accounts  of  Modern 
Machinery  and  Appliances.    By  the  EorroR  of  The  Laundry  Journal     .       .  2/0 
"  This  book  should  certainly  occupy  an  honoured  place  on  the  shelves  of  all  housekeepers  who  wish 
Xo  keep  themselves  an  coiirant  of  the  newest  appliances  and  methods." — The  Queen. 


AGRICULTURE,  GARDENING,  ETC. 
Draining  and  Embanking. 

A  Practical  Treatise.    By  John  Scott,  late  Professor  of  Agriculture  and  Rural  Economy 
at  the  Royal  Agricultural  College,  Cirencester.    With  68  Illustrations  .       .       .  1/6 
"A  valuable  handbook  to  the  engineer  as  well  as  to  the  surveyor." — Land. 

Irrigation  and  Water  Supply : 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Water  Meadows,  Sewage  Irrigation,  Warping,  &c. ;  on  the 
Construction  of  Wells,  Ponds,  and  Reservoirs,  &c.     By  Professor  J.  Scott       .  1/6 
"  A  valualjle  and  indispensable  book  for  the  estate  manager  and  owner." — Forestry, 

Farm  Roads,  Fences,  and  Gates: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Roads,  Tramways,  and  Waterways  of  the  Farm  ;  the  Prin- 
ciples of  Enclosures  ;  and  on  Fences,  Gates,  and  Stiles.   By  Prof.  John  Scott  .  1/6 
"  A  useful  practical  work,  which  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  farmer." — Farmer. 

Farm  Buildings: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Buildings  necessary  for  various  kinds  of  Farms,  their 
Arrangement  and  Construction,  with  Plans  and  Estimates.  By  Professor  J.  Scott  2/0 
"  No  one  who  is  called  upon  to  design  farm  buildings  can  afford  to  be  without  this  work." — Builder. 

Barn  Implements  and  Machines: 

Treating  of  the  Application  of  Power  to  the  Operations  of  Agriculture  ;  and  of  the 
various  Machines  used  in  the  Threshing-barn,  in  the  Stockyard,  Dairy,  &c.  By 


Professor  John  Scott.    With  123  Illustrations  2/6 

Field  Implements  and  Machines: 

With  Principles  and  Details  of  Construction  and  Points  of  Excellence,  their  Manage- 
ment, &c.    By  Professor  John  Scott.    With  138  Illustrations  ....  2/0 

Agricultural  Surveying*: 


•A  Treatise  on  Land  Surveying,  Levelling,  and  Setting-out  ;  with  Directions  for 
Valuing  and  Reporting  on  Farms  and  Estates.     By  Professor  J.  ScoTT       .  1/6 

Farm  Eng'ineering. 

By  Professor  John  Scott.   Comprising  the  above  Seven  Volumes  in  One,  1,150  pages, 

and  over  600  Illustrations.    Half-bound  12/0 

"  AJcopy  of  tills  work  should  be  treasured  up  in  every  library  where  the  owner  thereof  is  in  any  way 
connected  with  land." — Farm  and  Home. 


WEALE'S  SCIENTIFIC  AND  TECHNICAL  SERIES. 


59 


Outlines  of  Farm  Manag'ement. 

Treating  of  the  General  Work  of  the  Farm  ;  Stock  ;  Contract  Work  ;  Labour,  &c.  By 
R.  Scott  Burn,  Author  of  "Outlines  of  Modern  Farming,"  &c,       .       .       .  2/6 
"The  book  is  eminently  practical,  and  may  be  studied  with  advantage  by  beginners  in  agriculture, 
while  it  contains  hints  which  will  be  useful  to  old  and  successful  {a.rmeTs."—Scots/;iaK. 

Outlines  of  Landed  Estates  Manag'ement. 

Treating  of  the  Varieties  of  Lands,  Methods  of  Farming,  the  Setting-out  of  Farms,  &c. ; 
Roads,  Fences,  Gates,  Irrigation,  Drainage,  &c.    By  R.  S.  Burn        .       .       .  2/6 
"  A  complete  and  comprehensive  outline  of  the  duties  appertaining  to  the  management  of  landed 
est&tQs."— Journal  of  Forestry. 

Soils,  Manures,  and  Crops. 

(Vol.  I.  Outlines  of  Modern  Farming.)    By  R.  Scott  Burn.    Woodcuts  .  2/0 

Farming^  and  Farming^  Economy, 

Historical  and  Practical.  (Vol.  II.  Outlines  of  Modern  Farming.)  By  R.  Scott 
Burn  3/0 

"Eminently  calculated  to  enlighten  the  agricultural  community  on  the  varied  subjects  of  which  it 
treats  ;  hence  it  should  find  a  place  in  every  farmer's  library." — City  Press. 

Stock:  Cattle,  Sheep,  and  Horses. 

(Vol.  III.  Outlines  of  Modern  Farming.)   By  R.  Scott  Burn.   Woodcuts  2/6 
"  The  author's  grasp  of  his  subject  is  thorough,  and  his  grouping  of  facts  effective.    .    .    .    We  com- 
mend this  excellent  treatise." — Weekly  Dispatch. 

Dairy,  Pigs,  and  Poultry. 

(Vol.  IV.  Outlines  OF  Modern  Farming.)    By  R.  Scott  Burn.    Woodcuts  2/0 
"  We  can  testify  to  the  clearness  and  intelligibility  of  the  matter,  which  has  been  compiled  from  the 
best  authorities." — London  Review. 

Utilization  of  Sewag'e,  Irrig'ation,  &c. 

(Vol.  V.  Outlines  of  Modern  Farming.)    By  R.  Scott  Burn.    Woodcuts  2/6 
"A  work  containing  valuable  information,  which  will  recommend  itself  to  all  interested  in  modern 
farming. " — Field. 

Outlines  of  Modern  Farming*. 

By  R.  Scott  Burn,  Author  of  "Landed  Estates  Management,"  &c.    Consisting  of  the 
above  Five  Volumes  in  One,  1,250  pp.,  profusely  Illustrated,  half-bound     .       .  12/0 
"The  aim  of  the  author  has  been  to  make  his  work  at  once  comprehensive  and  trustworthy,  and  in 
this  aim  he  has  succeeded  to  a  degree  which  entitles  him  to  much  credit." — Mor)iing  Advertiser. 

Book-keeping  for  Farmers  and  Estate  Owners. 

A  Practical  Treatise,  presenting,  in  Three  Plans,  a  System  adapted  for  all  -classes  of 
Farms.    By  J.  M.  Woodman,  Chartered  Accountant.    Fourth  Edition     .       .  2/6 
"  Will  be  found  of  great  assistance  by  those  who  intend  to  commence  a  system  of  book-keeping,  the 
author's  examples  being  clear  and  explicit,  and  his  explanations  full  and  accurate." — Live  Stock  Journal. 

Ready  Reckoner  for  Admeasurement  of  Land. 

By  A.  Arman.    Third  Edition,  revised  and  extended  by  C.  NoRRis,  Surveyor  .  2/0 
"  A  very  useful  book  to  all  who  have  land  to  measure." — Mark  Lane  Express. 
"  Should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  persons  having  any  connection  with  land."— /r/i7i  Farm. 

Ready  Reckoner  for   Millers,   Corn  Merchants, 

And  Farmers.     Second  Edition,  revised,  with  a  Price  List  of  Modern  Flour  Mill 

Machinery.    By  W.  S.  Hutton,  C.E  2/0 

"  Will  prove  an  indispensable  vade  mecum.  Nothing  has  been  spared  to  make  the  book  complete  and 
perfectly  adapted  to  its  special  purpose."— J////6'r. 

The  Hay  and  Straw  Measurer: 

New  Tables  for  the  use  of  Auctioneers,  Valuers,  Farmers,  Hay  and  Straw  Dealers,  &c., 
forming  a  complete  Calculator  and  Ready  Reckoner.    By  John  Steele    .       .  2/0 
"  A  most  useful  handbook.     It  should  be  In  every  professional  office  where  agricultural  valuations  are 
conducted." — Lattd  Agetit's  Record. 

Meat  Production: 

A  Manual  for  Producers,  Distributors,  and  Consumers  of  Butchers'  Meat.    By  John 

EWART  2/6 

"  A  compact  and  handy  volume  on  the  meat  question." — lilcat  and  Provision  T^-ades  Review. 


6o 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


Sheep: 

The  History,  Structure,  Economy,  and  Diseases  of.  By  W.  C.  Spooner.  Fifth  Edition, 

with  Engravings,  including  Specimens  of  New  and  Improved  Breeds  .  .       .  3-/6 
"  The  book  is  decidedly  the  best  of  the  kind  in  our  language," — Scotsman. 

Market  and  Kitchen  Gardening'. 

By  C.  W.  Shaw,  late  Editor  of  "Gardening  Illustrated"  3/6 

"  The  most  valuable  compendium  of  kitchen  and  market-garden  work  published.  — Fanner. 

Kitchen  Gardening  made  Easy. 

Showing  the  best  means  of  Cultivating  every  known  Vegetable  and  Herb,  &c.,  with 
directions  for  management  all  the  year  round.  By  Geo,  M.  F.  Glenny.  Illustrated  1/6 
"  This  book  will  be  found  trustworthy  and  useful," — North  British  Agriculturist. 


Cottage  Gardening; 

Or,  Flowers,  Fruits,  and  Vegetables  for  Small  Gardens.    By  E.  Hobday   .       .  1/6 
"Definite  instructions  as  to  the  cultivation  of  small  gardens." — Scotsman. 

Garden  Receipts. 

Edited  by  Charles  W.  Quin.    Third  Edition  1/6 

"  A  singularly  complete  collection  of  the  principal  receipts  needed  by  gardeners." — Farmer. 

Fruit  Trees, 

The  Scientific  and  Profitable  Culture  of.    From  the  French  of  M.  Du  Breuil.  Fourth 
Edition,  carefully  Revised  by  George  Glenny.    With  187  Woodcuts      .       .  3/6 
"  The  book  teaches  how  to  prune  and  train  fruit  trees  to  perfection." — Field. 

Tree  Planter  and  Plant  Propagator: 

With  numerous  Illustrations  of  Grafting,  Layering,  Budding,  Implements,  Houses, 
Pits,  &c.    By  S.  Wood,  Author  of  "  Good  Gardening,"  &c  2/6 


"  Sound  in  its  teaching  and  very  comprehensive  in  its  aim.  It  is  a  good  book." — Gardeners'  Magazine. 

Tree  Pruner: 

Being  a  Practical  Manual  on  the  Pruning  of  Fruit  Trees,  including  also  their  Training  and 
Renovation,  also  treating  of  the  Pruning  of  Shrubs,  Climbers,  and  Flowering  Plants.  With 
numerous  Illustrations,    By  Samuel  Wood,  Author  of  "Good  Gardening,"  &c.  1/6 
"  A  useful  book,  written  by  one  who  has  had  great  experience," — Mark  Lane  Express. 
The  above  Two  Vols,  hi  One,  handsomely  half-bou?id,  entitled  "The  Tree  Planter, 
Propagator  and  Pruner."    By  Samuel  Wood.    Price  316. 

Art  of  Grafting*  and  Budding. 

By  Charles  Baltet.    With  Illustrations  2/6 

"  The  one  standard  work  on  this  subject." — Scotsman. 


MATHEMATICS,  ARITHMETIC,  etc. 
Descriptive  Geometry, 

An  Elementary  Treatise  on  ;  with  a  Theory  of  Shadows  and  of  Perspective,  extracted 
from  the  French  of  G.  Monge.  To  which  is  added  a  Description  of  the  Principles  and 
Practice  of  Isometrical  Projection.    By  J.  F.  Heather,  M.A.    With  14  Plates.  2/0 

Practical  Plane  Geometry  : 

Giving  the  Simplest  Modes  of  Constructing  Figures  contamed  in  one  Plane  and 
Geometrical  Construction  of  the  Ground.    By  J.   F.  Heather,  M.A,       .  2/0 
*'  The  author  is  well-known  as  an  experienced  professor,  and  the  volume  contains  as  complete  a 
collection  of  problems  as  is  likely  to  be  required  in  ordinary  practice." — Architect. 

Analytical  Geometry  and  Conic  Sections. 

By  Jamf:s  Hann.    New  Edition,  Enlarged  by  Professor  J.  R.  Young    .       .  2/0 
"  The  author's  style  is  exceedingly  clear  and  simple,  and  the  book  is  well  adapted  for_^the  beginner 
and  those  who  may  be  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  self-tuition." — Engineer. 

Euclid, 

The  Elements  of  ;  with  many  Additional  Propositions  and  Explanatory  Notes  ;  to 
which  is  prefixed  an  Introductory  Essay  on  Logic.    By  Henry  Law,  C,E.       .  2/6 
%*  Sold  also  separately,  viz.  : — 

Euclid.    The  First  Three  Books.    By  Henry  Law,  C.E  1/6 

Euclid,    Books  4,  5,  6,  11,  12.    By  Henry  Law,  C,E  1/6 

Plane  Trig'onometry, 

The  Elements  of.    By  James  Hann,  M.A,    Sixth  Edition       .       ,       .       .  1/6 


WEALE'S  SCIENTIFIC  AND  TECHNICAL  SERIES. 


6i 


Spherical  Trigonometpy, 

The  Elements  of.    By  James  Hann.   Revised  by  Charles  H.  Dowling,  C.E.  1/0 
%*  Or  with  "  The  Elements  of  Plane  Trigonometry,"  in  One  Vol.,  2/6. 

Differential  Calculus, 

Elements  of  the.    By  W.  S.  B.  Woolhouse,  F.R.A.S.,  .&c.       .       .       .   «   .  1/6 

Integ'ral  Calculus. 

By  Homersham  Cox,  B.A  1/6 

Alg^ebra, 

The  Elements  of.  By  James  H addon,  M.A.,  formerly  Mathematical  Master  of  King's 
College  School.  With  Appendix,  containing  Miscellaneous  Investigations,  and  a  col- 
lection of  Problems  2/0 

Key  and  Companion  to  the  Above. 

An  extensive  repository  of  Solved  Examples  and  Problems  in  Illustration  of  the 
various  Expedients  necessary  in  Algebraical  Operations.    By  J.  R.  Young        .  1/6 

Commercial  Book-keeping^. 

With  Commercial  Phrases  and  Forms  in  English,  French,  Italian,  and  German.  By 
James  Haddon,  M.A.,  formerly  Mathematical  Master,  King's  College  School  .  1/6 

Arithmetic, 

A  Rudimentary  Treatise  on  :  with  full  Explanations  of  its  Theoretical  Principles,  and 
numerous  Examples  for  Practice.  For  the  use  of  Schools  and  for  Self-Instruction.  By 
J.  R.  Young,  late  Professor  of  Mathematics  in  Belfast  College.  Eleventh  Edition  1/6 

Key  to  the  Above. 

By  J.  R.  Young  .       .       .    •  1/6 

Equational  Arithmetic, 

Applied  to  Questions  of  Interest,  Annuities,  Life  Assurance,  and  General  Commerce  : 
with  various  Tables  by  which  all  calculations  may  be  greatly  facilitated.  By  W. 
Hipsley  .       .       .  1/6 

Arithmetic, 

Rudimentary,  for  the  Use  of  Schools  and  Self-Instruction.  By  James  Haddon,  M.A. 
Revised  by  Abraham  Arman  1/6 

Key  to  the  Above. 

By  A.  Arman  1/6 

Mathematical  Instruments, 

A  Treatise  on  ;  Their  Construction,  Adjustment,  Testing,  and  Use  concisely  explained. 
By  J.  F.  Heather,  M.A.,  of  the  Royal  Military  Academy,  Woolwich.  Fourteenth 
Edition,  Revised  with  Additions,  by 'A.  T.  Walmisley,  M.I.C.E.,  Fellow  of  the 
Surveyors'  Institution.  Original  Edition  in  One  Vol.,  Illustrated  .  .  .  2/0 
In  ordering  be  careful  to  say  ''Original  Edition,"  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Enlarged 
Edition  in  Three  Vols,  {see  below). 

Drawing:  and  Measuring:  Instruments. 

Including — I.  Instruments  employed  in  Geometrical  and  Mechanical  Drawing,  and  in 
the  Construction,  Copying,  and  Measurement  of  Maps  and  Plans.  II.  Instruments 
used  for  the  purposes  of  Accurate  Measurement,  and  for  Arithmetical  Computations. 
By  J.  F.  Heather,  M.A  1/6 

Optical  Instruments. 

Including  (more  especially)  Telescopes,  Microscopes,  and  Apparatus  for  producing 
copies  of  Maps  and  Plans  by  Photography.  By  J.  F.  Heather,  M.A.   Illustrated  1/6 

Surveying:  and  Astronomical  Instruments. 

Including — I.  Instruments  used  for  Determining  the  Geometrical  Features  of  a  portion 
of  Ground.     II.  Instruments  employed   in  Astronomical   Observations.    By  J.  F. 

Heather,  M.A.    Illustrated  1/6 

%*  The  above    Three    Volumes  form  an  enla7gement  of  the  Authors  original  work, 
"  Mathematical  Instriiments,"  price  2/0. 

Mathematical  Instruments : 

Their  Construction,  Adjustment,  Testing  and  Use.    Comprising  Drawing,  Measuring, 
Optical,   Surveying,  and  Astronomical   Instruments.    By  J.    F.  Heather,  M.A. 
Enlarged  Edition,  for  the  most  part  re-written.    Three  Parts  as  above       .       .  4/6 
*'  An  exhaustive  treatise,  belonging  to  the  well-known  Weale's  Series.    Mr.  Heather's  experience 
well  qualifies  him  for  the  task  he  has  so  ably  fulfilled." — Engineering  and  Building  Times. 

Slide  Rule,  and  How  to  Use  It. 

Containing  full,  easy,  and  simple  Instructions  to  perform  all  Business  Calculations  with 
unexampled  rapidity  and  accuracy.  By  Charles  Hoare,  C.E.  With  a  Slide  Rule, 
in  tuck  of  cover.    Fifth  Edition  2/6 


62 


Mathematical  Tables, 

For  Trigonometrical,  Astronomical,  and  Nautical  Calculations  ;  to  which  is  prefixed  a 
Treatise  on  Logarithms.  By  H.  Law,  C.  L.  Together  with  a  Series  of  Tables  for 
Navigation  and  Nautical  Astronomy,    By  Professor  J.  R.'Young.    New  Edition  4/0 

Log-arithms. 

With  Mathematical  Tables  for  Trigonometrical,  Astronomical,  and  Nautical  Calcula- 
tions. By  Henry  Law,  C.E.  Revised  Edition.  (Forming  part  of  the  above  work)  3/0 

Theory  of  Compound  Interest  and  Annuities: 

With  Tables  of  Logarithms  for  the  more  Difficult  Computations  of  Interest,  Discount, 
Annuities,  &c.,  in  all  their  Applications  and  Uses  for  Mercantile  and  State  Purposes. 
By  Fedor  Thoman,  of  the  Societe  Credit,  Mobilier,  Paris.    Fourth  Edition     .  4/0 
"A  very  powerful  work,  and  the  author  has  a  very  remarkable  command  of  his  subject." — Professor 
A.  DE  Morgan.    "  We  recommend  it  to  the  notice  of  actuaries  and  accountants." — Athen(EU7n. 

Treatise  on  Mathematics, 

As  applied  to  the  Constructive  Arts.    By  Francis  Campin,  C.E.,  &c.   2nd  Edn.  3/0 
"Should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  one  connected  with  building  construction." — Builders'  Reporter. 

Astronomy. 

By  the  late  Rev.  Robert  Main,  M.A.,  F.  R.S.  Third  Edition,  revised  and  corrected. 
By  William  Thynne  Lynn,  B.A.,  F.R.A.S  2/0 

"  A  sound  and  simple  treatise,  very  carefully  edited,  and  a  capital  book  for  beginners." — Knowledge. 

Statics  and  Dynamics, 

The  Principles  and  Practice  of  ;  embracing  also  a  clear  development  of  Hydrostatics, 
Hydrodynamics,  and  Central  Forces.    By  T.  Baker,  C.E,    Fourth  Edition     .  1/6 


BOOKS  OF  REFERENCE  AND 

MISCELLANEOUS  VOLUMES. 

Manual  of  the  Mollusca  : 

A  Treatise  on  Recent  and  Fossil  Shells.  By  Dr.  S.  P.  Woodward,  A.L.S.  With 
Appendix  by  Ralph  Tate,   A.L.S.,    F.G.S.     With  numerous  Plates  and  300 

Woodcuts  7/6 

"A  storehouse  of  conchological  and  geological  information." — Hardwicke's  Science  Gossip. 

Dictionary  of  Painters, 

And  Handbook  for  Picture  Amateurs  ;  being  a  Guide  for  Visitors  to  Public  and  Private 
Picture  Galleries,  and  for  Art  Students,  including  Glossary  of  Terms,  &c.    By  Philippe 

Daryl,  B.A  2/6 

"Considering  its  small  compass,  really  admirable.    We  cordially  recommend  the  book." — Builder. 

Painting-  Popularly  Explained. 

By  Thomas  John  Gullick,  Painter,  and  John  Times,  F.S.A.  Including  Fresco, 
Oil,  Mosaic,  Water  Colour,  Water-Glass,  Tempera,  Encaustic,  Miniature,  Painting  on 

Ivory,  Vellum,  Pottery,  Enamel,  Glass,  &c.    Fifth  Edition  6/0 

Adopted  as  a  Prize  Book  at  South  Kensington. 
"  Much  may  be  learned,  even  by  those  who  fancy  they  do  not  require  to  be  taught,  from  the  careful 
perusal  of  this  unpretending  but  comprehensive  treatise." — Art  Journal. 

Dictionary  of  Terms  used  in  Architecture, 

Building,    Engineering,    Mining,    Metallurgy,    Archaeology,    the    Fine   Arts,  &c. 
By  John  Weale.     Sixth  Edition.     Edited  by  RoBT.  Hunt,  F.R.S.,  Keeper  of 
Mining  Records,  Editor  of  "  Ure's  Dictionary."    Numerous  Illustrations    .       .  5/0 
* ^*  The  above,  strongly  bound  in  cloth  boards,  price  6/0. 
"  The  best  small  technological  dictionary  in  the  language." — Arcliitect. 

Music, 

A  Rudimentary  and  Practical  Treatise  on.    By  Charles  Child  Spencer       .  2/6 
"  Mr.  Spencer  has  marshalled  his  information  with  much  skill,  and  yet  with  a  simplicity  that  must 
recommend  his  works  to  all  who  wish  to  thoroughly  understand  tcvvl%\z."— Weekly  Times. 

Pianoforte, 

The  Art  of  Playing  the.    With  Exercises  and  Lessons.    By  C.  C.  Spencer       .  1/6 
"A  sound  and  excellent  work,  written  with  spirit,  and  calculated  to  inspire  the  pupil  with  a  desire  to 
aim  at  high  accomplishment  in  the  art." — School  Board  Chronicle. 


63 


House  Manag'er: 

Being  a  Guide  to  Housekeeping,  Practical  Cookery,  Pickling  and  Preserving,  House- 
hold Work,  Dairy  Management,  the  Table  and  Dessert,  Cellarage  of  Wines,  Home- 
brewing  and  Wine-making,  the  Boudoir  and  Dressing-room,  Travelling,  Stable 
Economy,  Gardening  Operations,  &c.  By  An  Old  Housekeeper  .  .  3/6 
"  We  find  here  directions  to  be  discovered  in  no  other  book,  tending  to  save  expense  to  the  pocket,  as 
well  as  labour  to  the  h&sd."— John  Bull. 

Manual  of  Domestic  Medicine. 

By  R.  Gooding,  B.A.,  M.D.    Intended  as  a  Family  Guide  in  all  Cases  of  Accident  and 

Emergency.    Third  Edition,  carefully  revised   2/0 

"  The  author  has  performed  a  useful  service  by  placing  at  the  disposal  of  those  situated  at  a  distance 
from  medical  aid,  a  reliable  and  sensible  work  in  which  professional  knowledge  and  accuracy  have  been 
well  seconded  by  the  ability  to  express  himself  in  ordinary  untechnical  language." — Public  Health. 

Manag'ement  of  Health. 

A  Manual  of  Home  and  Personal  Hygiene.    By  the  Rev.  James  Baird,  B.A.    .  1/0 
"It  is  wonderfully  reliable,  it  is  written  with  excellent  taste,  and  there  is  instruction  crowded  into 
every  page." — English  Mechanic. 

House  Book, 

Comprising— I.  The  House  Manager.  By  An  Old  Housekeeper.  H,  Domestic 
Medicine.  By  Ralph  Gooding,  M.D.  HI.  Management  of  Health.  By 
James  Baird.    In  One  Vol.,  strongly  half-bound  6/0 

Natural  Philosophy, 

For  the  Use  of  Beginners,    By  Charles  Tomlinson,  F.R.S  1/6 

Electric  Lig'hting': 

The  Elementary  Principles  of.  By  Alan  A.  Campbell  Swinton,  M.Inst.C.E., 
M.Inst.E.E.    With  i6  Illustrations.    Fourth  Edition,  Revised      \_Just  fiiblished.  1/6 

Electric  Teleg'raph  : 

Its  History  and  Progress  ;  v^ith  Descriptions  of  some  of  the  Apparatus.   By  R.  Sabine, 

C.  E.,  F.S.A.,  &c  3/0 

"  Essentially  a  practical  and  instructive  work." — Daily  Telegraph. 

Handbook  of  Field  Fortification. 

By  Major  W.  W.  Knollys,  F.R.G.S,    With  163  Woodcuts  3/0 

"  A  well-timed  and  able  contribution  to  our  military  literature.  .  .  .  The  author  supplies,  in  clear 
business  style,  all  the  information  likely  to  be  practically  useful." — Chambers  of  Covutierce  Chronicle. 

Log^ic, 

Pure  and  Applied.    By  S.  H.  Emmens.    Third  Edition  1/6 

"  This  admirable  work  should  be  a  text-book  not  only  for  schools,  students,  and  philosophers,  for  ali 
litterateurs  and  men  of  science,  but  for  those  concerned  in  the  practical  affairs  of  life,  &c." — The  News. 

Locke's  Essays  on  the  Human  Understanding*. 

Selections,  with  Notes  by  S.  H.  Emmens  1/6 

Compendious  Calculator 

[Intuitive  Calculations)  ;  or  Easy  and  Concise  Methods  of  performing  the  various 
Arithmetical  Operations  required  in  Commercial  and  Business  Transactions  ;  together 
with  Useful  Tables,  &c.    By  Daniel  O'Gorman.    Twenty- seventh  Edition,  carefully 

revised  by  C.  NORRIS  2/6.    Strongly  half-bound  3/6 

"  It  would  be  difficult  to  exaggerate  the  usefulness  of  this  book  to  every  one  engaged  in  commerce  or 
manufacturing  industry.  It  is  crammed  full  with  rules  and  formulae  for  shortening  and  employing 
calculations  in  money,  weights  and  measures,  &c.,  of  every  sort  and  description." — Knoivledge. 

Measures,  Weights,  and  Moneys  of  all  Nations, 

And  an  Analvsis  of  the  Christian,  Hebrew,  and  Mahometan  Calendars,    By  W.  S.  B. 

Woolhouse,  F.R.A.S.,  F.S.S.    Seventh  Edition  2/6 

"A  work  necessary  for  every  mercantile  office." — Building  Trades  Journal. 

Grammar  of  the  Eng'lish  Tong-ue, 

Spoken  and  Written.  With  an  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Comparative  Philology. 
By  Hyde  Clarke,  D.C.L.    Fifth  Edition   .  1/6 

Dictionary  of  the  English  Language, 

As  Spoken  and  Written.    Containing  about  100,000  Words.     By  Hyde  Clarke, 

D.  C.L  3/6 

***  Complete  with  the  GRAMMAR,  5/6. 

Composition  and  Punctuation, 

Famiharly  Explained  for  those  who  have  neglected  the  Study  of  Grammar.  By  JuSTiN 
Brenan.    Eighteenth  Edition  1/6 


64 


CROSBY  LOCKWOOD  &  SON'S  CATALOGUE. 


French  Gpammap. 

With  Complete  and  Concise  Rules  on  the  Genders  of  French  Nouns  Rv 
G.  L.  Strauss,  Ph.D.   " 

Eng*lish-Fpeneh  Dietionapy, 

By  Alfred  Elvves  

Fpench  Dietionapy. 

In  Two  Parts  :  I.  French-English.    II.  English-French.    Complete  in  One  Vol.  3/0 
***  Or  wii/i //le  Grammar,  ^/6. 

Fpeneh  and  Eng'lish  Phpase  Book. 

Containing  Introductory  Lessons,  with  Translations,  Vocabularies  of  Words  Collection 
of  Phrases,  and  Easy  Familiar  Dialogues     .       .       .       .  ^  l/Q 


Gepman  Gpammap. 

Adapted^  for^EngHsh  Students,  from  Heyse's  Theoretical  and  Practical  Grammar,  by 
 1/6 

Gepman  Tpig-lot  Dietionapy. 

By  N.  E  S.  A.  Hamilton.  Part  I.  German -French-English.  Part  II.  EnHish- 
German-French.    Part  III.  French-German-English  .       .       .       .  3/0 

Gepman  Tpig'Iot  Dietionapy 

(As  above).    Together  with  German  Grammar  in  One  Vol.        .       .       ,  gjQ 

Italian  Gpammap, 

Arranged  in  Twenty  Lessons,  with  Exercises.    By  Alfred  Elwes  .       .  IfQ 

Italian  Tpig'lot  Dietionapy, 

Wherein  the  Genders  of  all  the  Italian  and  French  Nouns  are  carefully  noted  down 
By  Alfred  Elvves.    Vol.1.    Italian-English-French       .       .        "^'X  "oiea  aowi^ 

Italian  Tpig-lot  Dietionapy. 

By  Alfred  Elwes.    Vol.11.    English-French-Italian  2/6 

Italian  Tpig-lot  Dietionapy. 

By  Alfred  Elwes.    Vol.  III.    French-Italian-English     .....  g/Q 

Italian  Tpig^lot  Dietionapy 

(As  above).    In  One  Vol.     .  , 

 7/0 

Spanish  Gpammap. 

In  a  Simple  and  Practical  Form.    With  Exercises.    By  Alfred  Elwes  .       .  1/6 

Spanish-Eng-lish  and  Eng'lish-Spanish  Dietionapy. 

Including  a  large  number  of  Technical  Terms  used  in  Mining,  Engineering  &c  with 
the  proper  Accents  and  the  Gender  of  every  Noun.    By  AlfrId  eEwes  4/0 
V    Or -wi^k  ^/le  Grammar,  6/0. 

Poptug-uese  Gpammap, 

In  a  Simple  and  Practical  Form.    With  Exercises.    By  Alfred  Elwes  .       .  1/6 

Poptu^ues^Eng'lish  and  Eng^lish-Poptug^uese  Die- 

Including  a  large  number  of  Technical  Terms  used  in  Mining.  Engineering  &c  with 
EditroZ'evited":'  ^^"'^^      ^^^^^  AlfrIdT "wes^" ThiS 

***  Or  wit/i  ^/te  Grammar,  710. 

Animal  Physies, 

("a^  paresirLfh^^SSs""^  Withs^omustrations.    In  One  Vol 

***  Sold  also  in  Two  Parts,  as  follows  •— 
Animal  Physics.    By  Dr.  Lardner.    Part  L,  Chapters  L-VIL  4/0 
Animal  Physics.    By  Dr.  Lardner.    Port  II.  Chapters  VIII.-XVIII.'      .*  3/0 


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